My dad has Alzheimer's. It is only because he has a good neurologist that I learned this stuff, and as a cyclist you should want to know too!

His neurologist says that atrial fibrillation (mild heart condition) is known to cause Alzheimer's due to micro strokes because clots form when the blood flow is reduced during an AF episode. My dad ran 10 marathons a year for over 10 years, with an average under 3 hours. Cyclists, runners and other endurance athletes are a lot more likely to get AF because they damage their hearts training too much/unwisely.

So I looked into it further... the advice is that if you want to train hard without increasing your likelihood of getting AF, then you need to know about (heart) stress events, heart rate variability (hrv), and recovery times.

A stress event is any training session where your heart rate goes over 80% of your theoretical maximum (220-your age) for more than a minute. There's nothing wrong with a stress event per se. but after a stress event, you should allow your heart to recover, that means:

1. Not having another stress event the following day (do some resistance training, or some stretching)
2. Waiting until your hrv increases again to indicate your heart has recovered. I discovered that you can do this by watching Garmin's "body battery" - if you wake up and your body battery is >70% then you're recovered enough for another stress event.

If you are unfortunate enough to get AF, get put on blood thinners ASAP to avoid clotting and micro-strokes.

I’m 6 feet tall and when I got a bike in December the bike shop said I’m either a 56/58 in size (previously I had a 54 which I was comfortable on). Now when I ride , after 45/60 mins it feels like the seat is pushing something that makes me feel like I’m going to piss myself. The seat has a cut out but this numbness/feeling like I’m going to piss myself is every ride after the 45/60 min mark. Is the bike too big for me ? That’s going to suck because it cost me 5k so reallyyyyy hoping there is another answer.

I haven't tried either yet. I have always preferred a saddle with a cutout, and fairly wide for a race style seat as I have some wider hips and sit bones, I am tall and thin, and ride hard though.

The SQlab are very different from the SMPs, but both have good reviews for a lot of perineal relief. I was thinking of trying a SQLab 611 in a 14 or 15 for my MTB (more upright) and see how it goes. The SMPs I want to try (especially for my more aggressive Road bike posiiton) as they are so unique, but there's a ton of models and hard to know what to try - I'm pretty certain I want one of the wider ones like maybe the Nymber, but even it seems it may be too narrow for me. The wider ones than the Nymber look very large and bulky, not so suited to a race bike.

Have you tried these brand and how did you decide on the model for your bike, size, and position on bike?

Ok, so I’ve been holding on to my now “museum era” Giro Factor ACC’s dreading having to start over finding a good shoe fit. Anyone have any suggestions as to what would be a similar fit replacement for this? I am not a fan of the latest iterations of this shoe, which is why I come to you all. In case it matters, I wear a 47 in that particular model. Thanks in advance!

Is Java a good brand for road bikes in general? I heard they have good components and also the price point is not that expensive. I'm planning on getting one. Anyone who has some experience with the brand could shine some light on it. Thanks in advance.

My question is really specific but to those that use aero handlebar that have a flat section on top : -Is the position more comfortable for the wrist and forearm ? -can you rest your wrist on the flat section when in the hood in a aero position ?

I’m about to buy a ENVE aero In route handlebars but I was wondering if it’s gonna be much more comfortable than my rounded alloy bar . Thank you !

So, I'm usually a very fast, hardcore rider who goes 18-26mph(29-42kmh) on flat ground, constantly flying by others. However on my light bike(which does help me go fast) I find it hard to deal with wind. In wind often it seems I cannot go over even 15mph(24kmh), which is a total pain when you use your speed to fly through NYC and get places quickly as a great spring/summer substitute for the train while getting heavy exercise as well. Any tips to deal better with wind? I know assuming some aerodynamic positions can minimize the effect of wind, but are there any certain tricks or some biking attire that can help me go faster in wind. I find it so annoying, that's all.

Hi, I purchased a brand new helmet yesterday on Marketplace. I was super excited to have it but looking closer at the details a notice the helmet was made in 2018. I'm worried to ride it, Unfortunately, upon closer inspection, I discovered it was made in 2018. I also found some concerning cracks? I'm not an expert but the helmet is in perfect condition, all original tags are present.

https://imgur.com/a/LOVp9KX

https://imgur.com/a/as9llq3

https://imgur.com/a/TYUZ6XE

It's a Kask Mistral TT helmet

I have a 34.9 Syncros 2.0(I believe). Lately it has a 1cm sag and I am thinking the time came to change the air cartrige. Can I use any 34.9 cartrige or I need to find a Syncros catrige? Thank you!

Hi, I am writing this post in hope of finding some advice that would help me solve my recent issues with loss of performance.

Before actually writing about the problem I should probably explain the whole situation: So last week I decided to take an "easier week" with a purpose to have a short pause from indoor trainer and my structured training plan. The plan was to then continue (fully recovered) into the final build phase of intensive training.

However, what happened is that after a couple of days into my easy week I started to suffer massive performance drop in a way that I lost power in my legs as well as aerobic capabilites...traning in power zone 2 now feels like zone 3/4 and when I try to do a bit of intensity I just cant do it (breathing rate, hr are much too high and power is much too low, legs just can't produce power). Initially I thought that it is just a delayed fatigue from previous training block, however a week of easy to no activity has now passed and things didnt get any better. I doubt it is overtraining too as I was feeling well until I took the rest week.

I should also note that my diet/eating habits didn't change much in recent times, I am sleeping well and my HRV is fine too...

I don't really understand what my body is trying to tell me and how to proceed, since rest is clearly not helping...

Hello!

I’ve been running for a few months and have really taken a liking to the cardio fitness. I have decided that I want to hop into cycling. After some YouTube videos and Google searches, I decided to go to my LBS and just say, “hey, I want to become a cyclist.” The owner was super nice and talked my head off for almost two hours (willingly). He was super knowledgeable and kind and just really gave me the warm and fuzzy on cycling. I was truly grateful that this was the first impression I had of cycling.

I told him that I wanted to begin road cycling, and I have a decent cardio fitness level. My long term goal is to complete an Ironman, but all I do now is run. I’m trying to get into cycling now so eventually I can be a biathlete with hopes of being a triathlete.

He walked me over to a Giant Contend 3 and explained it very well to me. Then I asked (only for informational purposes) what the $5000 bike next to the Contend 3 had that this bike didn’t have. He went in-depth about everything. I just want to reiterate how kind this guy was. SUPER awesome person. I asked what else I needed (besides a helmet since that’s all I knew I needed aside from the bike), and he said pedals, shoes, a helmet, and at the minimum, some bike shorts. I was confused as to why I would need shorts, but he explained that too.

I explained that I won’t be able to make any purchases until I move (3 weeks from now), but he still went into measuring my inseam, and setting up the bike so I could ride it around the parking lot.

This is a completely unnecessary post, but a post to tell you all that LBS’s with genuinely nice employees/owners are out there. I’m 100% gonna go buy the bike from him as well as the helmet, shoes, pedals, and bike shorts as soon as I move.

Edit 1: The LBS I’m speaking about is Suburban Cycles in Buford, GA

Planning to pull the trigger on an Aethos. If you ride a Specialized, how accurate was the sizing calculator? Im 5’9 with shoes, specialized calculator says 54cm. Sound bout right?

Hello all,

I recently bought a bicycle trailer for my dog (lol) to go behind my bike. I would love to be able to capture some video of her when riding. A handlebar mount wouldn't be ideal as the camera would be too focused on me (I think).

I've been searching for some sort of rear mount that would allow an iPhone or GoPro or something similar to be attached and capture the footage behind the bicycle. Maybe something could be attached to the side of the seat bar.

Has anyone done something similar or have any ideas? Thanks.

What do people wear in the winter? I have a nice summer shorts bib. Do people wear trousers over that? I know I could get winter bib but wondering if there's a cheaper choice? I'm talking about cold and wet options

Hey, looking at buying a used TCX and was wondering it it would fit some nice fat tires.

Does anyone know? I've tried doing my some due diligence on my own but haven't been successful. The fatter the better!

Thank you!

I'm down to these two options for an endurance bike, as my LBS have good offers. Both around the 3000€ "entry" level.
Domane SL 5 gen 4 is cheaper, but with alloy wheels.
Defy advance is pricier but lighter and carbon wheels.

I prefer the Domane's reputation for comfort, but I fear it might be sluggish, not too responsive and heavy on climbs (i plan to do endurance rides with elevation and possibly multi-day challenges).
I like the Defy for its lightness, so maybe can do quicker miles with same power... but i fear that the more aggressive geometry might turn in discomfort after many miles.

What's your experience on both? Does the Domane feel quick? Does the defy feel comfy?

What if i upgrade Domane with carbon wheels?

Cheers

Hello Everyone

spent
I have recently bought my first bicycle a Giant Contend AR 2 loving how it rides, my problem comes when about 100 km on my new bike I get my first puncture on my back wheel.

When I remove the tyre, everything seems easy until I have to get that tyre off, so I break my first two tyre levers and order two with a metal core and a longer arm. They work great for removing the tire.

So now my problem is getting the tyre back on I opted to convert the tubeless setup it came with for inner tubes recommended by one of my friends, but after having now punctured two inner tubes in the process of replacing the already punctured inner tube I am on the brink of giving up.

This was when I thought why not convert it back into a tubeless since the tyres seem extremely tight on the rim and made for tubeless and o I don't have to deal with the inner tube always breaking.

For more info, I have spent almost 4-5 hours on this one tyre now and I still don't have it fixed it seems impossible atm of writing this.

So is tubeless maintenance as bad as my friend describes it? Because it sure doesn't look like it on the videos I have seen of it.

So my question is what do you guys think?

Kind regards

A confused, frustrated and tired new cyclist.

Hello, I know nothing about bikes but need one right now to commute thats around 4 miles back and forth. The description says " Specialized Allez Elite 2013 Road Bike, Size 54, Wheels 700, Aluminum, Shimano tiagra set" He is offering it for $300 however, theres another seller that is selling a Trek 4500 speed bike for 170$. Which of the two is the better deal or are both not the greatest deal I can get.

I have: a Cervelo P2, a Cervelo S5 (that I built up from a used frameset, specified and bought all the parts necessary), and I can do pretty much any kind of servicing necessary except truing wheels (only because I don't have a truing stand, or the training to do that, and don't want to screw up my wheelsets if I make a mistake). I've also done much of my own servicing of cars and motorcycles I've had over the decades, and I'm an experienced electronics and computer tech with some engineering experience.

But, this Fuji Feather I've got is confounding me, and I have questions for y'all about it. I can't even seem to find sources for drivetrain and other parts I want to change on it.

It's a flip-flop hub on the rear wheel. Are cogs for singlespeed and fixed-gear hubs all interchangeable? Or are they different from manufacturer to manufacturer, ala-Shimano versus Campangolo, for instance?

Chainrings I understand just fine, of course, not that much different from dual and triple chainring cranksets. Number of teeth, bolt center diameter (BCD). Just can't seem to find them as easily.

Not enough miles on this bike to worry about the bottom bracket yet. Cross that bridge when I get to it.

It's got a quill stem and a fairly small diameter handlebar; I'd like to change that to the diameter I'm used to on road bikes, in a ergo handlebar, with brake levers set up like a regular road bike instead of the Tektro levers it came with (which are only accessible from the top of the bars); possible?

What I really need to know right away is where to get singlespeed/fixed-gear drivetrain parts. This Fuji is intended to be my 'rain bike' (my S5 is not a good bike in the rain), I put fenders on it for that reason, but I'd like a little easier gear ratio, at least for the moment.

I know this is a little long-winded but I felt some explanation would facilitate questions.

I’m newer to bike maintenance and learning as I go. I need to replace my bottom bracket, but not sure exactly what will fit. I originally had a square taper threaded bracket. I need to have a bracket that will fit but allow a 24mm spindle instead. The width of the housing is 68mm which seems pretty standard. The outside diameter of the threads of the original bearings is roughly 34.5mm.

I’m struggling to find something that for sure fits, but think that maybe the Shimano BBR60 Ultegra BSA bottom bracket would work? It shows it’s 68mm across and fits a 24mm spindle, but I don’t see anything for sure about the threaded diameter. It does say BC1.37 which I’m hoping is for inches because that would be 34.8mm. Any help confirming or pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.

I am thinking to buy this bike. what you guys think I should maximum pay for this bike. https://imgur.com/a/sNUWvxr

Yes, super silly title!

Does anyone have any advice on how not to get a dry nose or mouth while on the trainer? I usually do all of my indoor training with a large fan that keeps me cool and makes training indoors 10x better. The only issue is that with this long winter, the air is very dry and I can really feel it in my nose and mouth. I hydrate plenty but it is is really no use.

So I'm deciding between Ghost Kato 29 and Specialized Rockhopper 29, and I can't choose between them. They are both good and are almost the same price, but both have some cons and pros, and i just don't know which one is better

During lockdown Ned Boulting created an audio book of "How I Won the Yellow Jumper" It was stored on his Soundcloud account but it’s not there anymore 😢 Has anyone got a copy of it? Being dyslexic it would be great to have another listen Thanks in advance 🙏

#audiobook #cycling #tourdefrance #nedboulting #dyslexic

Hello everyone,

I am going for a weekend trip to Mallorca (Port de Pollenca) where I planned a nice easy circular 70k route to Lluc.

Today I found out it is going to be a rainy day...

I've heard that roads are really slippery during rain? Is that true?

Would it be dangerous to cycle in mountains in such weather?

Former long-distance road biker here, I have done 2,000 mile trips across the US on various trips when I was in my 20s, but am now in my late 30s and no longer bike often. While I have done a lot of biking, it's always been with sag support and groups so my knowledge feels rusty and limited.

Two questions, looking for advice...

I currently have a Specialized Diverge e5 Comp that's a few years old and a friend is taking the TransAmerica route in April/May and invited me to join, I can probably take 10-days to two weeks out of my life schedule to join and am excited at the possibility of making this happen.

1. I'd love to join this trip but my bike of choice over the last few years has been my Diverge. Can I swap out tires to road bike tires and call it a day or should I borrow a dedicated road bike? Here are the specs for my current bike.

2. Second question, I can join anytime during this trip and will fly out from our home base in California to somewhere on the trip. I've done extensive East Coast riding and I currently live in California so looking for something I haven't done yet. I am more interested in maybe the mountain areas (or Yellowstone or Tetons). Where would you suggest joining on the TransAmerican route if you were only going to do 10-day or so? I think he is still deciding on final route so I don't have specifics yet.

Grateful for any feedback!

Hi fellow cycling enthusiasts, I have recently bought an indoor trainer and chosen to use it with MyWhoosh for now. On my most recent ride with steep gradients, I noticed that the selected gear and cadence didn’t at all correspond to the speed of my avatar on MyWhoosh. Does anybody else happen to have experienced similar problems?

I would like a rear faceing radar but i don't use a bike computer. I do use my smart phone but its in my pocket playing music to my earbuds. I use an open ear style so i can still hear around me but an audio beeping in my ears of approaching cars would be great.

Do any of the radars connect to a smart phone and just have an audio warning that overrides or goes off with spotify also actively playing music?

Thank you!

So long story short I want to know more about bikes and because I am in need of a new gravel bike I wanted to build one off temu parts since I have a hack for free shopping up to 50$ per order.
So I am building a gravel bike, on a carbon frame from aliexpress, 1x speed because I hate maintenance of the 2x, nice tire clearance of at least 45c, fat mtb tubeless tires.

What I still have to figure out:
What crankset and how many teeth do you suggest for a 1x gravel bike?
What teeth for a rear 12 speed cassette would be good?
For groupset go ltwoo or wheeltop? Electronic or mechanical? I am leaning toward electronic since it has much less maintenance in dirt and mud.

As for wheels I wanted to go for a set of used ones off buycycle or other site as you could find sets taken off a new bike for half the price.

Do you have any more suggestions or tips?

I recently found what I thought was the ultimate bike for me (well, along with my fixed and cargo bike :)) - a Croix de Fer 20 flatbar. But then I looked closer and saw that it no longer had Reynolds 725 but some generic 4130 they put the name Mjolnir on :'(

So then I found the old version, a Croix de Fer 20 FB, and everything is great except that it has QR axles.

The obvious option is of course to jump all the way up to a CdF 30 - but that'll cost me around 70 % extra and then I have to switch to a flatbar if I want that.

So what'd you choose? Generic 4130 with thru axles or Reynolds 725 with QR? They cost around the same and I'm sure both will serve my needs absolutely fine - I'm just in doubt about what's the greatest compromise.

Thank you!