Just wanted to celebrate John Caletti - superb Ti specialist custom builder based in Santa Cruz. Wishing him all the best in his continuing recovery. Still honeymooning with this bike - 2 years after delivery, I just chuckle w/ glee every time I hop on it!

Had a matchless few weeks in the Dolomites with this one.

https://preview.redd.it/bc8l5smg35yd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=752e131ba37eb6ceee5060762b7cc541c2870cf9

https://preview.redd.it/zgfs7z4k35yd1.jpg?width=3840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3923c3dd7a13d094180566a540d6f22f258e600d

https://preview.redd.it/xs8hsphm35yd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=755cdfb4d1e9350d4fb584932216c37c45db1fe8

The moment of divine blessing! (Tough to persuade the Holy Spirit to sign a release clause...)

Context. I recently replaced the cassette, RD, chain, chainrings, FD, BB on an old bike that I'm using on my Wahoo Kickr v4. All spec'd out with Shimano Claris; chain sized properly as well. Front is 50-34 and cassette is 11-34. I followed instructions on a GCN video to index the gears but I'm wondering if I need to re-do it. As an example, middle of the cassette gears with small chainring are absolutely smooth and almost noise free. The same cogs with big chainring start making a noise. I have a feeling this is just normal but I'd appreciate any feedback. I do expect there to be cross chaining and noise on the lower and upper ends of the cogs but not in the middle.

Also, I found these instructions. They seem to indicate that all the indexing should be done in the big chainring and the small chainring should be fine. Is this a correct assumption?

1. shift to the largest chainring/smallest cog.
2. Unclamp pinch bolt at rear derailleur to take shift position out.
3. Find "H" limit screw on RD, (if it isn't marked pick a screw and turn it, the one that moves the entire RD is the H limit). Turn the H limit clockwise to tighten it until you hear clicking, then back it off (counterclockwise) until clicking is gone.
4. Turn barrel adjuster ALL the way loose (clockwise), then tighten counterclockwise 1.5 full turns. Reattach cable to RD, pull it taught, then tighten pinch bolt. This adds cable tension back to the RD.
5. Shift up to next smallest cog (from the smallest). Check if there is any noise in every cog except the very largest. If there is clicking noise/jumping, tighten barrel adjuster counter clockwise until it goes away. Repeat for every cog until there is no more noise or skipping of chain.
6. Finally, at the very largest cog, tighten up the L or low limit screw just like you did for the H limit, until the cog starts making noise. Back it out until there is no more noise, and you are done.

Has anyone had this problem while riding bike in nyc? I always get some d$#khead mta drivers who try to run me off the road while passing them. Most try to close me in almost making me hit parked cars. I give the respect and room as anyone should as I ride. when I see it's a good time to pass I do but most of the time the bus driver sees me and tries to cut me off or push me off the road. It's getting dangerous and I will be wearing my GoPro on rides now to report them now.

guide me I’m planning to get my first long distance/touring bike

I’m confused which bike to get I did a bit of research it’s either a hybrid or gravel with the specs for long distance and a good bike

1. Pardus EXPLORE SPORT 3×8 speed (Gravel)
2. Sunpeed Kepler (Hybrid)
3. Pardus EXPLORE URBAN SPORT (Hybrid)

Plz guide me guys

Hey Everyone,

Advice on buying a bike. I am looking for a daily commuter that I could possibly use for some light touring and bike packing.

My priority is commuting but I found this ghost that looks well maintained and the previous owner seems to have maintained it well.

I have a nice MTB for the bike packing/touring. However it would be cool to have something a bit lighter.

Price is negotiable and I thought about $200 - $250. Any thoughts

Giant Defy SL Ultegra di2 Roval Rapide CL II

Spotted on a bike locked up in the wild. What is this disk on either side of the rear axel?

Hello, I have a 2021 Tarmac SL6 base model. It has 10s Tiagra and I believe hydraulic disc brakes. The cables at the handlebar are all externally routed. I am looking to install something like an S works tarmac stem + aero bars for something flatter profile and better width for my shoulders.

I could not find a good YouTube video for this kind of job. how do you detach the cables from the shifters (for shifting and braking) and then re route them? My bike is mechanical shifting but I heard I could semi integrate the cables to clean up the front end. I'd prefer to tidy it up, but idk how it works. I was also looking at one piece cockpits on Aliexpress but the headset converter you need to use looks very awkward..

Here is the model I have: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/tarmac-sl6/p/175300?color=293448-175300

Here is an example of what I am looking to do if possible: https://ibb.co/6yBJGf6

Anyone else here mount this rack on their bars using T-channel mounting? I'm finding reaching the screws that mount the rack to the bars virtually impossible to reach on the release mechanism side, much less tighten or loosen. The video on their website is no help, just glosses this step over.

https://preview.redd.it/4ectpo6rf3yd1.jpg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d99dff4cfa11ca0c33312221e7a1ca06f6760dc2

I don't need one for 2 wheels as I am getting a handbike attachment for my wheelchair so it is front-wheel drive and stands up on its own

Hello,

I am new to bicycling. I quite like that my handlebar is low. However, sometimes, I want to sit more upright. I know that I could get a new stem or change the angle of the handlebar. But I was thinking whether there is some product that I could insert instead of the side grips (bar ends) to create another handlebar on top of the handlebar, so to speak?

I found someone who has a 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2, aluminum frame, GRX400, with WTB st 123 wheels. This is new, wrapped, and still in a box. I have an older CAADX that, while reliable and fun as hell, is showing it's age. I use this mostly on dirt/gravel trails and bike packing trips such as the GAP, C&O, and the Empire State Trail. I have read some negative reviews on these wheels and that has me a bit concerned. Everything else seems good (derailleur is easy to replace if I find it too fragile). It's being offered at $1300. Thoughts?

So my frame was making hell lot of noise when i was was turning it around. Took few magnets from fridge, put next to vent holes and started shaking. Now its noise free.

Biking to work today was a blast, lots of kids cheering and people taking photos

The Daily Cyclist Thread is a place where everyone in the /r/bicycling community can come and ask questions or share anything.

You might have questions that you don't think deserve an entire post. Perhaps you're just seeking the input of some other cyclists. Maybe you want to share a picture of your new bike.

Anyone is free to comment, and (hopefully) get as much input as possible from other cyclists.

I’m eyeing now a bike that is too far from me and needs to be shipped, How would somebody buy a second hand product without properly inspecting it and there is no real return policy on eBay’s end.