Can we sell a cycle bought from Decathlon back to Decathlon?

Bought a cheap gravel bike just to test it out and didn't like it. (mainly ridden a hybrid mtb with slick tires)

Planning to swap it to a folding or single speed bike to be used for running my errands and commute.

Just wanna get ideas from your secondary bike :)

Hi r/cycling, hoping to get some advice from cycling peeps around the world specifically in tokyo.

Im on a holiday here in tokyo for around 10 days. I initially wanted to visit cycle paradise tokyo. But then I stumbled a sram force axs semi groupset (w/out cranks and chain) for a very tempting price. Its 2nd hand a have cosmetic issues like scuffs and scratches here and there but it says it works perfectly fine. They say that once the payment is confirmed they will ship it within 2 days.

So here's my question,

Any of you guys have experince purchasing from cycle paradise online and having it shipped in your airbnb or hotel? Thank you so much in advance.

I currently have a 1.5mm thick tape that offers little comfort, weighs about 50g. what thickness and material would you choose for enough damping but still not too heavy and bulky? would be nice if it doesnt weigh 2-3 times more as the old one.

Hey, I'm planning to move for a month to the UK and since I ride a lot I would love to know where should you guys recommend to stay for a month that is bike friendly and also has nice access to national parks or is a short/medium distance away from the beach.

Hi All, I have a pretty basic bike called a Triban RC100 as I am new to cycling and just wanted something entry level to get into the sport.

My feel is that that the low gears are not really low enough and was wondering if it's possible to modify the bike to make this better ?

Maybe someone could advise on the Specs below as well and let me if it's even worth the modification ?

Thank you

Drive train Speed changes using 7-speed Shimano A050 indexed shifter on the handlebar.

Ergonomic and very comfortable: change speeds without letting go of the top part of the handlebar. This ergonomically-shaped lever fits the palm of your hand perfectly.

Crankset / cassette Single chainring is easier to use and lighter. Perfect for flat or slightly hilly terrain. Chainring: 44 teeth. Cassette: Microshift 12 x 28

My reddit video showing the shifting in action: https://v.redd.it/k9xoqycn1b8e1

Config of the bike in the video: Tiagra SL-4700 trigger shifter, 105 RD-R7100 rear derailleur, 10-speed SRAM PC-1051 chain, 10-speed 11-32T SRAM PG-1050 cassette. (The 105 RD-R7100 can accept cassettes up to 11-36T according to Shimano's specifications.)

It works! The indexing is spot-on. This is only possible if both the shifter and derailleur are built to use the exact same cable actuation ratio (i.e. 100% compatible).

So it appears Shimano kept the same 1.4 cable pull ratio for 12-speed 105 as 11-speed 105/Ultegra/Dura-Ace/GRX and 10-speed Tiagra 4700 / GRX 400. So that 12-speed 105 RD-R7100 rear derailleur is compatible with all these above groupsets.

The 105 FD-R7100 toggle-type front derailleur are compatible with all those groups too. Felt Bicycles have been using the FD-R7100 on their Tiagra 4700/4720 bikes so we know this also works.

So there you have it folks: For those who own Tiagra 4700/4720 bikes: If you want to upgrade your shifting to the latest Shimano mechanical road groupset derailleurs (R7100), yes you can! It's an economical option to give your Tiagra 4700 bike 105-quality shifting with the latest Shadow-design rear derailleur and toggle-type front derailleur to upgrade from the old Tiagra knuckle-type rear derailleur and long-arm front derailleur. I bought that R7100 rear derailleur on eBay for just $45.

Got on my bike today. In my fave bibs that I know are comfortable. After about 15mins of moving my arse all around the seat I just can't seem to find the sweet spot and the fit of the bike just feels off. Then I swear my bike was making weird creaking and clicking sounds that I have never heard before. Cut the ride short to 55kms (thats about 35 freedom units).Have not touched my bike since I last rode earlier in the week. Was just one of those days.

I am planning to do a bike trip from Istanbul to Copenhagen in the future. I know it is very ambitious, but I am really dedicated to this. I am going with one or two friends but we have not started planning anything too serious as we are all busy atm. Most likely we will go in 2 years. Are there any good routes we should take? Are there any places we should avoid? I was thinking of doing this bike trip for around 2 months, but I'm not sure if that's too much time or just enough?

I wanted to exercise on it. It still has an intensity regulator. It would be great to replace the calories I burn on a 2-hour walk in 30 minutes, or something like that. I can do 1 hour per day, i think. I remember that when the monitor of the stationary bike was working the average speed was between 12-14 km/hour at light to average intensity.

19yo, male, 1.75m, 94kg.

Hi everyone! I am a 24 year-old-female, who has ran 7 half marathons and 3 marathons. After my 3rd marathon, I've always told myself I want to train for an ironman (first half then full). I am pretty intimidated by the cycling aspect. I don't know too much about it - there seems to be so much that goes into cycling especially compared to running. Hoping someone has tips about cycling and ironmans in general!

Hi all!
My 8 year old has recently set a goal of riding the length of a trail that goes by us. This trail is 40km long one way, with I believe only 1 spot on a steep hill ascent that about 150m long near the start. Mostly flat.

We have no one to meet us at the end to take us back to our car or any other means of getting from the finish back to start/home without going all the 40kms back.

What is a realistic timeframe that we’d be able to eventually do this in one day? We’re going to work our way up there. Kiddo reckons by the end of the school holidays!
I am not fit and haven’t cycled in years and years. I’m a walker. Kiddo is very fit and active.
We are not on a time set for this. Just the goal to complete it.
Thank you for reading! (On mobile and tried to format so I’m sorry if it didn’t)

I have been gifted these: https://www.bikeexchange.ca/blog/shimano-rp7w-womens-road-cycling-shoe-review

To use at my spin classes but the bikes are SPD, this is all new to me, could someone please confirm if this is the correct adapter I would need to purchase in order to use them?

https://www.hyperride.co.nz/product/246371/shimano-sm-sh41-cleat-adapter-spd-cleats-onto-spd-sl?srsltid=AfmBOooS7SfMAfGgiwpMc0gMZ_jHo8v8m0nIpKmDSuokuFnJps_BvWBw

original thread here

lots of people suggested PT. Some suggested bike fitter. I already had a bike fit so I asked the fitter. Here's the jist of what he said:

For the bike, we know you weren't too high, but possibly it's still too high for your current physiology. Some of that pelvic rotation to turn your butt up toward the sky means more hamstring engagement for extension, and more demands on trying to keep that correct ankle position.

In short, it's still a limitation of your body and something to keep working toward.

You need to keep working lots of smart Eccentric deadlift work to lengthen and strengthen your resting posterior chain, but for the bike right now you'll want to lower your saddle 5mm to start. That reprieve on extension will let you get back to still working on the correct hip angle and foot angle. If after a week, it's still angry, lower another 3-5mm. You'll be able to push through the pedal much more midfoot and hopefully take away the current overextension at the back of your knee. Not because the saddle is too high again with your lever length, but currently it might be with function and mobility.

you just did the important step of making sure there's nothing limiting. It's just your function, Range of motion, and mobility. Taking time off from those sore muscles is NOT the answer. Movement is always medicine. You need to start correcting the muscle pathways and strength there, so volume on a bike is really good for that. Just have to find the safe extension for now. You ABSOLUTELY should keep working them OFF the bike though too and in a few weeks you'll be surprised how much better they can be. Most doctors have to give you the safe answer and most of that advice is still general. Doctors still tell you to ice a sprained ankle and that's not a good thing to do. You need proper movement, not rest.

Interesting advice from the fitter. Really sounds confident and knowledgeable. Anyone have any doubts to anything he said?

Also what does he mean by "smart Eccentric deadlifts"?

Any suggestions for learning how to do a track stand ? Would be so handy at lights ..

I’ve been cycling for 1.5 years and have put ~7,000 miles on my carbon road bike with skinny tires and a power meter. Recently, I got my wife, who has health issues, into cycling (on an e-bike), and she’s been loving it—especially indoors on our "dumb" trainer paired with my power meter. She was cycling twice a day. Meanwhile, I enjoy winter cycling outdoors in the Rocky Mountains so we had to take down/setup alot.

Unfortunately, on my way home from a doctor’s visit to get a letter authorizing me to use my HSA for cycling equipment (due to heart issues), I was hit by a driver who claimed the sun was in her eyes. My bike is totaled, I’m injured for now, and the legal process is ongoing.

I need advice on what to buy given these constraints:

1. My wife is still very excited about cycling, and I don’t want her to lose momentum.
2. I need something that will keep her motivated and let her enjoy Strava (she loves those kudos!).
3. I’m exploring the following options:
   • Kickr Core Bike + Zwift: ~$1,300
   • BikesDirect Gravel Bike ($700-$1,300) + Smart $400 Trainer: ~$1200-1700
   • Peloton: Work w/Zwift/Strava? used/refurb ~$1000

Additional Considerations:

• I’ve never used an HSA before and am not sure if it’s possible to purchase from local classifieds.
• Prefer to save as much of the HSA funds as possible for future medical needs.
• My non HSA budget is tight until I know more about the accident settlement.
• Is it better to wait and use settlement $ for replacement bike + trainer 4 recovery?
• Does Peleton and Zwift require separate accounts for each person

I am drowning in all the options out there. Would appreciate any advice that could simplify and help me breath!

Looking for something that will really get drivers attention. What’s the best?

I've ridden a lot the last couple years, first getting in shape on my old hybrid then going longer and faster on an old road bike I finally managed to snag for a price I could justify. I have continued to use my hybrid for functional travel around town, but it's so inferior that I ride the road bike for everything unless the roads are too wet. Unfortunately, it's on its last legs and would not pass a safety check; I could probably buy a comparable bike used in good working order for what it would cost me to get it in good shape again, if not less.

Fortunately my financial situation has turned around a little bit, and I've started eying a real upgrade. I tried a Trek FX1 Stagger Disc and even this bottom-tier bike with mechanical disc brakes felt amazing. I didn't want to spend much on a hybrid because a better road bike seemed like more fun, but it seems like if I want a really substantial upgrade to that I'm going to be looking at $800+ for a used bike that is still a bit dated. The test ride completely changed my mind, though, it felt amazing. On the 7300 I feel okay in traffic downtown; on the FX 1 the cars were in my way, like on the road bike. So I'm totally sold. But looking at my options, it seems like I will probably be happier if I splash out a little bit on something a tier or so up.

I am eventually coming to the point here. The FX 3 Gen 3 with Deore drivetrain seemed like a good option, but isn't available, so I was thinking FX 2 Gen 3 with 2x9 Altus and Acera components, though those are lower-level components (I have little experience with different groupsets, I've just internalized "don't get the cheapest groupset" because I lucked into Ultegra on my 20-year-old road bike) I see the FX 2 Gen 4 has a 1x9 CUES groupset though. I watched some videos about this, and it seems like people are mostly talking about Deore vs. CUES for mountain biking. Shifting performance under load is big for mountain biking, but I don't expect to do a ton of climbing on the hybrid. I see the FX2 Gen 3 has a higher top speed before spinning out, and as someone who pedals on the descents that appeals to me, as does the lower price. According to 99spokes it also has a more aggressive riding position (though probably subtly), which is great for me since I'm looking for the fastest 'round-towner I can get. But I can't help but wonder if I should law out the extra $150 for the newer version with the CUES groupset. No front derailleur of course means the end of cross-chaining and one less component to have problems with, so that's nice, as is the supposed much-improved durability since I'm still pretty strapped. I watched some videos about it, but the more technical stuff is honestly over my head. I guess my main question here is, if I plan to ride this bike for a long, long time, am I going to regret getting the one with Altus/Acera components that are being replaced with CUES? How long before you have to scrounge for replacements? When the drivetrain is eventually totally shot (not sure how long that will be; I put about 5,000 miles on my road bike year and far fewer on the hybrid, but I think I'll be riding this new one a lot more, expect at least 1,000 a year) can I just slap a new CUES drivetrain on there? I'm completely out of my depth on the technical aspects. Any thoughts by those with the patience to get through this essay welcome, thanks.

Tacx Flux resistance stopped

Today, out of the blue my Tacx Flux didn’t give resistance when starting a new ride on Zwift. Stopped Zwift and switched to Garmin, connection is fine, firmware is up to date, but the Tacx Flux is simple not giving any resistance. Also when starting the calibration process nothing happened, speed remains at 0. Anyone any idea?

I've been riding the Emonda ALR since 2020. It's the previous iteration, so no aero shaped tubes. While the bike has been solid, it's definitely not the most aero shaped.

I'm wondering what performance gains would I make on a bike like either a Cannondale supersix evo or a Trek Madone - which are more modern, carbon aero bikes.

If I were to run a pair of 50mm aero wheels on the Emonda and its possible replacement , would I actually see a performance difference between my current bike and one of those replacement options? What kind of speed increase can I expect from an aero frame alone? Are their BB noticeably stiffer for punchy climbs? Are deep carbon rims pointless on a non-aero bike like my emonda?

I'm looking for a commuter ebike me and my wife can use. She's 5'1" and I'm 5'6" and I'm looking for something under 50 pounds as we'd have to lift it up over some steps to get it out the door.

Any recs?

Hi! I am new to electronic shifting especially to the SRAM system. I’m planning to build a triathlon bike by myself and willing to spend around 4k USD only.

I have seen other builds using SRAM AXS groupsets. My questions so far:

1. Is it possible to pair the wireless blips directly to the derailleurs? Like, if I buy the Force AXS D2 FD and RD only without the shifters and I want to use only the said blips or do I really need to buy the shifters?

2. The frame that I am planning to work on has T47 86.5mm bottom bracket sizing. What SRAM BB should I buy?

3. My initial plan is to go with 48/35 chainring and 10/33 cassette. Will it be possible to have a 1x setup with 50T chain and still use the 10/33 cassette?

Thank you for your input.

Hi, can anyone tell me the polarity of the two pins of the charging connector?

Hello, I am a beginner bike rider who started in August of this year and I got a mountain bike (Rockrider ST 120 Orange). My plan is to go on an Easter trip from Valencia to Alicante in Spain, and probably more in summer (around 2 or 3). I have been improving every now and then the kilometers on every trip (my latest two visits have been of 2hours and 39 minutes for 37,1 km and today 2 hours and 15 minutes for 33,35km).

I would like to get into a cycling group but I have seen them go above 60-100km sometimes. What should I do? I am hesitant on what to do at this point

Jamis Coda Elite (2013 I believe) derailleur broke today while riding. It’s a 27 speed so 9 gears on the back wheel. I’ve done some repairs on the bike so I’m pretty handy, but I’m not totally sure what makes one derailleur different from another.

Any recommendations? TIA

I bent my rear wheel. Tarmac SL7 Comp. Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement set? I’d like to go full carbon and tubeless to save the weight. Thanks in advance.

Hi all

Looking at getting into cycling in the new year and was wondering what bike is a good starter road bike for around 1000 euro ??

My biggest concern is not being able to find comfortable seats and my butt hurting, is there a solution to that ?

Not sure if anyone else is not a fan of them , but i cannot get comfortable in them. I’ve tried 3 different rides and no go. The padding in the front bunches up and feels like a diaper riding up my crotch. Extremely uncomfortable. Did i get the wrong size? Is that particular model specifically for a certain body type? I made sure to get the correct size based on their size guide. It’s a bummer because i always thought Assos were top shelf.

Anyone knows what test does a bike frame need to go through before become uci legal? Especially when it comes to saftey like weight limit and material fatigue?