Anyone have advice on R5CX sizing. I ride a medium Giant TCR Advanced Pro on the road. I’m 5’10” with a 32” inseam and pretty standard torso and arm length. I’m torn between a 54 and 56 and curious if anyone is similar size and has experience with either frame size.

Trying to replace a rear derailleur hanger after I tossed the old broken one. If anyone could send me any info that'd be great! I couldn't find specs online and the brand doesn't show up on the hanger sites I checked.

https://preview.redd.it/er1d6gtlc2zc1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ecacda46c52d7237f3a6e023ebd6ca747331b241

I just got some new Specialized rooval wheels from AliExpress

(just kdding - they are Fulcrum 800s. I put the 'rooval' decals on to confuse people! Gives you the psychological edge in races)

I just got back from the local cyclocross training session. I was having a bit of an issue with the front wheel. The system felt sort of flexy turning hard into corners. At one point I am convinced the front end flexed enough I nearly lost the front end. No spokes feel loose mind.

I have never owned wheels with this spoke pattern (radial, no spokes crossing) and am wondering if perhaps these wheels are sub-optimal for racing.

I honestly bought them because they look cool with my mud tyres (35mm deep section alloy wheels and not overly heavy).

But is this spoke pattern not ideal? Would you get them relaced? I can't imagine the rim profile is an issue - but happy to be corrected.

What's the ideal spoke pattern for cyclocross? Maximum number of crossed spokes? And/or wider flanged hubs?

My bars have been slipping when force is put through them (FSA energy bar, Easton EA50 stem). Anytime a significant force is put through the bars (eg hopping barriers, chattery descents) the bars slip forwards. I believe have torqued the bars down correctly to 5 NM (with correct top lock install for easton stem). Any suggestion on how to prevent slipping?

Looking at the geometry, it could work. What do you guys think?

Compared to a Crux, the BB is only 2mm lower. It’s got a shorter chainstay and wheelbase than the Crux, which would probably make handle a little better in the cross field. Even a steeper head angle. Room for 40s, which is more than enough for cross (my old Trek Boone barely cleared 37s).

It would also double as my road bike and light gravel bike. The only downside I can see is the price. It’s new and still quite expensive. But from a purely bike standpoint, it could do the job.

For size 58, Crux weighs 935g, Fray weighs 1,050g based on various threads. So not that much heavier.

I need a single speed for CX racing generally, but especially for SSCXWC24WISCO. I have an old Surly Cross Check (2015 I think) so I was thinking about throwing on a carbon fork and converting it to single speed.

Terrible idea? Or the BEST idea ever?

I'm a mediocre racer, so this is really just to get rowdy and have fun. Not at all concerned about have a "good" bike to "win" races.

Hi, picking up a Swiss Cross Canti (yayyyy), currently with cantis f/r and Campy Veloce (10sp i think?). From what I understand the Campy lever throw is too short for MiniMotos or other 85mm arm-length mini-V's like the TRPs. So, I'm considering the Tektro 926A for up front, which has a 80mm arm and I have read works w/ Campy levers- any thoughts on what the the max tire width might be for these? Hoping to run 38mm tires on this ride. For MiniMotos max is like 42mm, so I'm concerned 38mm might not have enough clearance with the Tektro 926A for mud.

Thanks for any thoughts!

Hello Reddit,

I'd like to buy/build 2 identical brand new bikes for next season, after years of using second (or third or even fourth) hand equipment that have brought me their share of problems.

My LBS that I have a good relationship with sells Ridley bikes, and I was looking at their website, they sell 2 cyclocross specific bikes/frames. The SL is the one used by Iserbyt's team and seems to be the ultimate cyclocross bike (simple round lightweight tubes, external seatpost clamp, etc). The other one has a different geometry and some aerodynamic features. My first impression is that this bike is halfway between a gravel "race" bike and a cyclocross bike.

My questions are :

Is the RS the next generation of ridley's cyclocross bikes, and will it be used in races by the pros next season ?

What do you think of those bikes ? I'm really looking for a cyclocross specific bike. I'm not gonna use it outside of cyclocross races, apart for some technical training before the start of the season

For reference, my main CX race bike was a bmc CX01 that I managed to build with some nice components over the years. I really liked how it rode. The downsides were the thin tire clearance and the quick realease, which made wheels changes a nightmare with my other bike

UCI Published the World Cup calendar finally. There are no US dates for the first time since 2015. Another nail in the coffin for cross in the US I'm afraid.

https://www.uci.org/pressrelease/the-uci-publishes-the-calendar-for-the-2024-2025-uci-cyclo-cross-world-cup/7nI2itfBU4tvbcVl1AJx4n

I know it's a CX bike but I was wondering would this bike be comfortable for longer rides, gravel rides and bikepacking? There's one in my local used market for a fair price and looking to buy it for my GF to upgrade her from her hibrid bike.

Has anyone made a cheap city bike converted to SS CX? I have zero budget, and keep seeing Retrospect, SKU, State 4130, etc. used on CL/FB for $100-200. Throwing on drops and brake levers, and 33c CX tires.. Is this an option? I know there's lots of variables that have to align to make this work, like SS dropouts and enough clearance for brakes & tires.. Am I wasting my time? Or is this a thing? Or should I look towards Motobacane Uno? I rarely see anything used under $700. Located in Philly area - I know availability varies by location. I haven't considered anything that needs shipping since it can double the cost.

I work in a bike shop, and this carbon 2017 Boone with carbon wheels, cranks, fork, and seatpost came through for a consignment sale/swap event and got posted for $600. It didn't make its way into storage before I'd purchased it. 1x11 sram rival, TRP cantis.

After checked the rim & brake on last post.

I use the bikegeocal to measure the bike size and fitting. And I find the old CX frame has slightly lower stack than the endurance road bike I have. The frame is size XL in 58 seat tube size and if I added 5*10mm spacer on, there is still about 38 or 33 mm lower on handlebar position. The endurance road bike has also 50 mm spacer and 15 mm from the stack of upper cup. I always use the 70 or 80 stem, a bit shorter than default. The inseam and standover is okay, 40 mm higher than upper tube.

Is it normal? Or I'm just short arm. LOL

Do I need to add more spacer?

*Don't mind the seat post and saddle position, Idk how to edit them, it's default.

Pic Tip: The anchor is ground. Both 35mm tires. There is 5mm delta in bb drop. The shadow one is the bike I have.

​

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So I’ve recently gotten into cyclocross but I cannot figure out how to train.

Do you train in empty fields? How do you have obstacles, do you make your own or do you have a track near you?

All I have are empty flat fields with no variation, so how do you train hopping barriers, shouldering and doing a run up, remounting on hills, etc. Where do you train and how. What do you train? Do you train anywhere else or any general environments that you recommend for training? I find that doing basic things are very boring on level fields. How do you solve this? I can’t find any clubs near me but that’s a different problem that i’ll figure out later. Thanks for any help.

I just bought a canti brake CX frame from the flea market last month. I plan to fit 33 or 35 mm tires on the frame, and maybe 1x build.

Could you kindly guys give some suggestions about the rim brake wheelset or the rims? What inner width rim do I need to fit 35c tires? I prefer the alloy rim, and I can find the sunringle venus or the alexrim on LBS, Any others recommendations are very welcome.

Thanks bros.

Update: Thanks for the replys. I think I need to find the 17 to 19 mm inner width rim, the local store only has 14 0r 15 mm light weight road bike rim with 20/24 spocket holes. And for the brakes, I haven't decided, however there is not the racing event, I just bought the frame, and need to check & measure which one is fitted and suitable. The brake mounting post looks like a bit shorter than the normal V-brake.

Hi, I'm not a cyclocrosser but i think what you guys do is close to my use case. I have a cannondale bad boy 1 with 700x28c wheels that i want to take to south america for a year where the roads / terrain is fairly rough. I'm not looking to go racing or serious offroading... I would like to make it an adventure/explore/get groceries bike... yet these skinny 28c tires are always on my mind re: puncture/pinch risks (plus, they sink in anything soft).

The wheels are 2016 Cannondale C2 Bad Boy rims, Double Wall, 32-hole (w/ 700 x stock 28c schwalbe slicks).

The fork is a lefty [Headshok Fatty Solo Dl50, 50mm, Isolated Damper Technology With Lockout] Lots of clearance it looks like. It doesn't have the nipple on the underside that i read can reduce clearance.

Any advice on how big i can or should go to get some rubber on there that can take more punishment than the 'delicate' feeling 28c tires? Cyclocross standard is 33? And they handle most terrain/abuse? Is the ideas to go as wide as the rims can handle if my goal is durability?
Cheers

Guess you could call this first race a prologue before the official season starts. Looking forward to some cooler weather in the coming months.

Totally unprepared and super unfit, but it feels good to be racing again!

Quick release has more flex in it, so I would assume it would give a ride with less vibration?

I know the thru axles are important for bikes with disc brakes as they are in the same spot every time, preventing rotor rub, but for a rim brake bike does this matter at all?

I don't mean to stir up rumors, but has there even been a date set as to when the UCI calendar will be released?

Haven't got to ride yet. Slicks for the summer until closer to season (WI).Mike's bikes still has them for the price they were offered for late last year.

Curious what other people's review on them was. Wout wasn't available.

https://preview.redd.it/t9plnfd0yxpc1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bad6716594a59c12dace2ef6184dbc2111d51dc0

Toon Aerts is back following his two-year suspension for doping What was the fans' reaction and was his ban fair?

CAUTION: This article discusses drugs and adult themes that may not be suitable for all ages.

https://rijden.uk/blog/toon-aerts-is-back/

I’ve been coming back from a major health issue that forced me into a sedentary lifestyle and have been looking into cycling! So far I’m up to 20min per day of flat and (very) slightly hilly riding. By April of 2024 I’d like to see a significant improvement and am looking for some general advice and help. What goals could I reasonably set for myself? What apps or devices do you all use to track yourself?

Anyone built up a Niner RLT as a SS? I've never used a Niner EBB, so I'm a little on the fence, though that frameset for $599 is looking pretty sweet.