AND HOW THE FUCK DO YOU REMOVE IT???

I need to remove the crank but after removing the nut at the bottom, I can't remove the bolt and the middle is completely circular with no threads and I can't see how to remove it. I have a crank tool but it doesnt work. I can't move my bike to get it to a shop until I take it off !

Thanks so much if anyone can help

How do I remove this stuck crank arm? Tried a rubber mallet but it won’t budge. Got the self pulling 8mm bolt out fine.

I bought this frame on eBay, how do I work out what spec of fork fits in it?

https://alpkit.com/products/sonder-camino-al-v3-frame-and-fork?srsltid=AfmBOopJleDLPsoHrTSEoOoNxjLOUhnoOMY5n_fgXePqLzk_asGDY7e0

Not looking for an debate Yay or Nay on the topic, but I am curious to ask those who maybe of 'similar kink' to myself and developed a little bit of a regimen of waxing on their main ride(s).

I rotate x2 chains on two of my bikes. I use a dedicated, small (<5L) ceramic bowled slow cooker for melting and dipping.

When you go change the mixture - what ways do you find is the most easy and thorough to get old batch out in one go?

1. Pour it out liquid and hot? Leaving a bit of a grimey residue with the sediment.

or

2. Pry or gouge out the cold solid lump - with the old sediment all settled at the bottom?

I just changed my first batch today (probably a bit overdue, in all honesty) and used the first method. The cleaning of the dirty residue was a bit more labour intensive than I'd hoped.

So I left dot-fluid in my bleed kit for a day without realizing just how quick the hoses degrade. Where do you guys get replacement hoses?

Hey everyone,

I recently acquired a beautiful vintage bike frame from the late '80s, and it came with not one but two sets of wheels—both laced to tubulars. The first set features early low spoke count Phil hubs (24/28) that have been radially laced where applicable and also filed for aero spokes. The second set is an amazing set of DA hubs with a similar spoke configuration, though the bladed spokes are more subtle, so the hubs haven’t been filed.

While I love the classic look and performance of tubulars, I'm leaning towards converting to clinchers for convenience and cost reasons. Here's what I'm thinking:

• Rim Choice: I'm looking for rims that won't look out of place on a late '80s frame. Any recommendations for rims that have a classic, timeless design and are easily available? I've heard good things about Rigida (Ryde) Chrina, Velocity and H+TB Rims.
• Reusing Bladed Spokes: Is there any hope of reusing the bladed spokes from my current wheels? It looks like there's some room to trim them about 1cm.

I'd really appreciate any advice or suggestions on making this conversion smooth. I love the idea of keeping the vintage aesthetics while making the bike more practical for modern use.

Thanks in advance!

I'm having a lot of trouble remounting my tyres after taking them off (regrets) and none of the tricks are working for me. I didn't have any trouble mounting them when new, but now it seems air can too easily escape under the bead, so I'm wondering if they might have stretched beyond usability? Is that a known issue with these tyres? I never had these issues with my old GP5000 TL tyres, but I know they were infamous for their tight bead. Have any of you experienced something similar?

Im using the chart below. I will be using a MTB rim at 40 mm wide. I was wondering what the difference will be using a tire at 61-584 compared to something in the 64 mm range. Also if I do go this route will I be fine with using a tire in the 61 mm size for bikepacking?

Tire & Rim Fit Chart – WTB

Basically the title:

I managed to snag a set of decent carbon wheels for a good price. Only downside was they had the DT Swiss 370 3-pawl hub with shimano 11 speed road. Looking for a way I could switch it.

• The Ratchet LN upgrade Kit retails around 180$ CAD; Is there additional tool costs needed to go that upgrade or is it a drop in?

• Most retail sites around me are selling the 3 pawl body + spacer for 120-140$

• Last ditch option would be to try and throw on a 12 speed cassette that works with my SRAM system (I think I'm reading that there are 12 speed cassettes that worth with shimano HG, does one just need the SRAM chain or will I run into real issues?)

Is there another option I'm missing?

No bolt for crank puller

Hi Everyone, I have a 12 speed shimano 105 di2 with a 50/34 chainring and 11/34 cassette.

I recently changed my front chainring to 53/39, however i noticed this has changed my chain line and it’s making all types of noises now.

Can anyone suggest how much to adjust front and rear derailer by?

Thank you in advance, total bike noob here

is this much bend on the cage okay? it is slighty above the recommended max sprocket but im planning to add a wolftooth and i wonder if that would help? thank you

I asked ChatGPT and it said its a quick release lever but I have no idea how to operate it. It doesnt rotate clockwise or counter clockwise. Rotating it releases no pressure at all.

Hi there,

I'm trying to figure out the source of my issues. When pedaling, it sounds like a crunch sound. When not pedaling, there's a fast clicking sound. I'm not sure what it can be: https://imgur.com/lSozPf4

Thank you!

Hey everyone! I picked up this used suspension fork recently, but there's something awfully off about the legs. A rubber seal on one side seems to have come loose, and a tube that looks like it should be inside the outer portion is sticking out. here's a photo showing what's goin on

and a side view

It actually still works alright, but I'm not sure what the risks are of keeping the fork like this. I thought to take it apart, but looking inside i'm not too sure how to move forward with disassembly.

Anyone know how to fix this? I was thinking I just compress it down and pop the rubber seal back in, but I am lacking in a pair of hands to do so. Is there some kind of special fitting I'll need to get into there? Is this something for the lbs? Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Does a wheel like this need another layer of tape for tubless conversion???. The red is the factory "tape" that cover spoke holes and seams pretty solid. I feel like adding tubeless rim tape would do nothing over this yet the website for the wheel says tape would be needed for tubeless??? This is a State Bike 4130 All Road 650b wheel for reference