Husband complained that the whole crankset wiggles when he rides. I got the bb out of there and it looked horrible, lots of dirt and rust, ball bearings cage looks like it blew up. So it all needs to be replaced, and that's ok. But I'm now trying to figure out if maybe the frame itself is damaged too.

It's a rat bike, single speed, for short rides around town, so it shouldn't ride perfectly. As long as the driver is not killed.

What do you think? And if it can be salvaged, what would be the next steps?

https://preview.redd.it/syj09ptolige1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c1a9e1e5dcd1933bf6932850c88bbf55753f5c80

https://preview.redd.it/onqltotolige1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=623f256585f26a480897d04ebdaf9ba917d4f952

https://preview.redd.it/7odtzotolige1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12e8da53a75d75946e712aac0eabe0615c5257db

Pretty new to biking and even newer to bike maintenance. Recently I got Muc-off x-3 chain cleaner and it says to rinse well with water. I live in a flat and don't have access to a hose outside and my shower is too small. How would you recommend rinsing the chain without taking it completely off?

I just upgraded to Tru axle Frame boost but my hub is not boost type so i purchase the adapter, i found that the rear wheel is kinda loose a little but not noticeable even i shake the bike left and right. the axle lock is already tighten. i still try to run it the wheel spin is straight. i found it kinda little loose when i move the wheel left and right and compare to my front which is not loose.

Are this normal due to adapter? or theres already a problem?

I bought a Snapcycle R1 step thru fat tire bike back in Oct. I kept getting flats on the rear wheel and changed the inner tube four times that month. I contacted Snapcycle.

Eventually, they agree to send me a new rear wheel. Stating they haven't had a problem like this before. I realized the hole where the Schrader valve goes kept slicing the valve. I'm thinking maybe there is an insert that wasn't included for the hole of the Schrader valve on my rear wheel.

Is there something that goes inside of the hole to avoid this? If not, should I try a different type of valve that isn't close to the edges of the hole? Snapcycle finally agreed to pay to have it looked at but I don't have a car right now. Is this a quick fix? If I can do it at home that would be ideal. I don't want to drill it and risk making it worse.

Hello guys, i wanted to ask y'all if you know if there is any specific kit for the fox 38 grip damper rebuild kit? Because i can not find any kit for the 38, only for 32 34 36 and 40. Even on fox site its the same.

My fork is a Fox 38 Rythm 2023 with a GRIP damper.

https://reddit.com/link/1if0ohv/video/luk181720hge1/player

My bike seat got stolen with the post a while back and I finally wanted to get it fixed so I ordered new parts on amazon to replace them. I first ordered a seat and realised it didn't come with a post, so I then ordered a post but then realised when I stick the post in there's nothing stopping it from just sliding out. Am I missing some other clamp to attach this on? I've searched online for a clamp but they only seem to turn up with post clamps that tighten the pole to the bike frame. Maybe I missed something in my materials or I need to buy something new. Thanks

Metal plate?

Has a squishy sticker at the back of it

Anyone know what this thing is used for? I ordered a 105 R7000 groupset and this thing came with it. I don't know what this is.

Edit: Solved! It's a back up plate that attaches to the seat tube (according to Shimano's official instructions).

When I first get on the bike the brake is non functional, if I pump it it gets a TINY bit better but not by much.

I saw online that I unscrew part of the brake, hold the handle and screw it back down. This seemed to work for a second as the brake lever seemed to get 'tight' again but it didn't work and I was back to where I was before.

I've been riding very slow on side walks in case I have to emergency stop, but I commute daily and I'm a bit scared.

Any ideas?

When I first get on the bike the brake is non functional, if I pump it it gets a TINY bit better but not by much.

I saw online that I unscrew part of the brake, hold the handle and screw it back down. This seemed to work for a second as the brake lever seemed to get 'tight' again but it didn't work and I was back to where I was before.

I've been riding very slow on side walks in case I have to emergency stop, but I commute daily and I'm a bit scared.

Any ideas?

I have a set of Stans ZTR 29er wheels with DT Swiss 370SL hubs and the freehub is threaded. What replacement hub do I need? New to all this and a bit stumped as there seems to be a lot of different types so any advice/held/recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/9qn3gx72egge1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ca1ef175f5451d3b3907d00cbd4842462d20640b

https://preview.redd.it/gqii4da2egge1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5be57f39926cb6aac1001c85089c74bc845a2d2c

I had a bad flat a few days ago (hit a deep sharp-edged pothole with debris) and immediately deflated my rear inner tube. Rolled on it for about 20m before I stopped and checked. Had no spare tube so I taxi'd home and parked my bike until I got an tube to replace it.

When I replaced the tube and placed it back the rotor doesn't sit proper anymore and the rear wheel can't spin. Is this a deformed rotor or something else?

I currently run a 46T chainring 1x with a Deore long cage derailleur m5100 with a 11 - 51 rear cassette with no issues. I am wanting to swap it to a 52T wondering if anyone has tried this before? Assuming I get a new chain could it work? I’ve checked and I have room on the frame so it won’t be an issue from my measurements

Hello,

is it normal for the cassette to be as loose as on the movie? I haven't paid much attention to this issue with my previous cassettes, but I bet I would notice such a poor fit... It is a CS-M9000 (XTR) 11x 11-40 cassette on Novatec SB-792 hub. Checked with 2 hubs: On the first movie it is a brand new freehub (as I wanted to upgrade to a 6-pawl one). Seams totally hopeless. On the second movie there is the old freehub - a bit better, but still, unacceptable... Any solution to that?

https://reddit.com/link/1iew1ea/video/z0nit4oatfge1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1iew1ea/video/03iasud0tfge1/player

Replacing BB on 10 speed, to a Shimano BBR60. Son disassembled crankset and told me that he misplaced two "washers" one from each side of the BB. He described them as very thin washers that go over the BB output, residing between the BB and crankarm.

What are these used for? Are they required and if so, what would they be called? I tried the Shimano site but had no luck identifying the part.

2014 Bianchi Intenso with SM-EW90-A junction box and BT-DN110A battery (newly replaced).

Battery was charged overnight and charger indicates that battery is full, though using the shifters does not trigger the battery indicator light on the junction box. The bike will cycle the gears for crash protection mode just fine, but does not shift when using the levers. Cables plugged and unplugged, everything seems solidly connected.

Any suggestions on next troubleshooting steps?

I just got a new bike last weekend, after my third ride I noticed a very tiny bit of play in the dropper rotating left to right. This is happening to the post that slides up and down, not the tube that fits inside the frame, which isn't moving at all.

It's an X-Fusion Manic Composite 30.9 170mm post. I don't know if a little play is normal since it's very minimal (a few millimeters maybe) or if this is a problem, as it's my first dropper. Any help appreciated!