/r/bikewrench
A community of cyclists - some with questions, some answers
A forum for folks with questions about bicycle repair.
Post your problems, and we will try to get your bike rolling again. It really helps if you can provide pictures and/or video.
A community of cyclists - some with questions, some answers
Post your problems, and we will try to get your bike rolling again. It really, really helps if you can provide pictures and/or video.
You can also consult our FAQ or the list of people willing to help locally.
Post Rules and Guidelines
Questions about bike repair only. If you just want to post a picture, this isn't the place for it. Full rules.
"Is this cracked / safe to ride?" - If you have to ask, don't ride it. We probably can't tell from a picture just what condition your bike is in. Take it to your Local Bike Shop and ask them. If it's carbon, a specialist repair shop may be required. They should have the equipment and expertise to inspect it properly.
Please use the weekly thread for post follow ups and acknowledgments. Tag helpful commenters if you want them to receive a notification.
Play nice
Stay on topic / No jokes, especially not false answers as jokes.
Other Websites:
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Technical Info. A comprehensive resource with answers to common and obscure questions, data tables, etc., including a glossary which also serves as an index.
Park Tools' Repair Help including illustrated text and video guides to service procedures.
Cold Setting Steel Frames: adjusting the dropout spacing on a old frame to fit a more modern drivetrain. A comment with an overview and links to more information.
Other helpful subs:
r/bicycleengineering: bicycle technology from an engineering perspective.
r/wheelbuild and r/Framebuilding for construction of those components.
r/Bikebuilding for discussing and showing off bikes built up from a frame. See also r/xbiking.
r/Vintage_bicycles/ for pre-1986 bicycles.
Outlets for posts that don't belong here:
r/BikeMechanics Discussions among bike mechanics, professionals and advanced amateurs. Looser rules than /r/bikewrench.
r/JustRidingAlong "Pictures and stories of some of the most egregious user-error and bad luck damage on bicycles."
or just plain r/bicycling, which also has links to more subs.
/r/bikewrench
So straight to the point, i have two bikes and on bith of them the right pedal arm becomes loose, i always ride on the highest gears and fast, could that be the reason?
They have a 35 degree backsweep. Is that enough clearance for road levers put on sideways up where they start to curve back? Would I need to change housing and cables that I currently have? (Downtube shifters)
Hi, I want to lower the reach on my Tektro orion hydraulic disk brakes. the screw is inaccessible as it is like rolled at an angle unreachable to me. any ideas on how to adjust reach or make the little screw accessible
screw highlighted red. cannot reach due to brake lever in the way.
Hey, I installed a new lever, and the brake hose went into the wrong threads and its bent down. It leaked first from the hose, but I tightened it more and now it doesnt leak I quess? Can I keep it like this, or shoud I do something to it? Thanks!
hi my headseat is moving but i tried doing several things from tutorial but i cant get it to not move should i clean of the bearings and grease them and then tighten or some other strategy to tighten them?
Hi folks,
I've noticed some play in my bottom bracket. Can anyone help identify what type of bottom bracket I have and more importantly how to adjust it? The videos and pictures below show the non-drive side. Many thanks!
I recently upgraded to 203mm brake rotors (Shimano SLX RT64) on my Merida Big Trail 600 and since and even before they have not been working properly. When I break they are completely useless, do not slow me down at all and make a horrendous squeaking noise. I have tried using different brake pads (only resin ones) and I have cleaned up the disk rotors using brake disk cleaner. Does anyone know what I could do in this situation?
I have a 2023 Cannondale Scalpel SE 2 with a Cannondale Hollowgram crankset. The bike utilizes Cannondale’s AI Offset for the rear hub. I’m looking to get an oval chainring and I’m not sure if I need a different chainring offset. Any help is greatly appreciated.
On my last DH (Rock Field) I could hear a hit on the back, thought it was my rim as I was running low pressure. On the way home shifting was funky, sometimes shifting down sometimes not.
Cable tension did not solve the issue. Back on the stand I tried re-indexing and adjusting H/L. Only with detached cable the shifter moved down on the smallest sprocket as soon as I bolted the cable it moved up. The black plastic cable guide is practically touching the sprocket and moves when tightening the bolt. On my GX 11 on another bike there is a gap approx 1cm.
By eye nothing looks massively bent or hit. Any idea how to proceed?
Got myself a new set of GP 5000S tires but for the life of me I can’t get them to seal to my Giant PR2 wheelset. Anybody have any tips for getting them to seal? Thanks!
Hi everyone. This is pertaining to my mountain bike, a Specialized Stumpjumper.
I injured my right wrist years ago and the injury lingers to this date. It has affected my ability to ride my MTB; all the rear braking on downhills causes me to lose feeling in the wrist to the point where I can't continue. My question is simple - can I easily switch the break cables such that my left hand controls the rear brake? It seems relatively straight forward to me but I'm no expert. Suppose the brakes cables would need to be retensioned following rearrangement? TIA
On my second chainring, and I believe it is almost symmetrical, I have what looks like a crack with a bend. There are three to four around the circumference of the ring. Is this failure or is it manufactured this way to help shift? Kind of like a lift or a ramp?
I tried to add a new saddle on this canyon seat post with a flip head. How hard can it be... However, whatever I try there is always some play on the righthand side while the lefthand side is very tight. (See second picture) I am using a torque wrench. What am I doing wrong here?
SRAM brake piston popped out-what to do?
I’ve had annoying brake squealing and after changing the brake pads and investing into a new disc aswell, it did not get better. Some research pointed into to direction of pistons being stuck or not pushing out evenly. And as it seems that was the reason for my squealing brake.
So I followed the instructions of resetting the pistons. Pulling the lever and pushing the pistons back in. When doing so, one piston almost popped out and leaked a few drops of liquid. Really just drops. There has been no more drops coming out. I was able to push the piston back and nothing is leaking.
However, since that happened I am not able to put any pressure on the brake anymore. Pulling the lever does not lead to anything. Pistons are also not moving and seem “stuck”. I also can’t really push them back in. Did air get into the system and is this the reason? Sorry, I’m a newbie who is obviously having his share of experiences / learnings now… 😂
What can I do to fix this? Happy for any advice.
Is it bad that compression ring causes this little gap to be there?
I already tried cleaning the caliper pistons, but the lever just rattles and doesn't disengage the brakes. Did anyone have the same issue? any suggestion is appreciated.
in videos about rebound adjustment I see people referring to clicks of rebound. my fork doesn't click once when I turn the rebound knob, but it seems to be working, it becomes slower and faster. Is this normal for this fork?
Would clockwise refer to if you were looking upwards from the ground, or downwards from the top? Just so I know which way to turn it
I have an old 2x9 speed Ultegra 6500 road bike with 39 and 53 teeth chainrings (SG-B). Since they are no longer in production, the best option is to use Ultegra 6700 10 speed chainrings (SG-X), correct?
Does anyone know how long the Ultegra 6700 chainrings will still be produced? Should I buy them now before they are no longer available?
Hi all, I'm currently trying to fix my Vitus Nucleus VR 29 2022 (link to specs here: https://vitusbikes.com/products/vitus-nucleus-29-vr-mountain-bike-blue-2022 )
I'm having some issues with my crankset - when I pedal with moderate force the pedals creak (and drives me absolutely crackers). After a bit of googling it seems that tightening my bottom bracket would be a good place to start. Unfortunately, I've lost the tool that came with the bike :(.
I can't seem to find a replacement tool anywhere, so can anyone identify what tool I need to tighten up my bottom bracket? I've added an image below of what the bottom bracket tools like too :). Thanks in advance and sorry if my terminology is off, I've not worked on this part of my bike before.
I have spent ages building up my drive train only to discover the chin ring I bought is Sram compatible. Gutted
Hello everyone,
I recently had what I thought was a good idea to simplify swapping between winter and summer tires due to the variable weather in my area. I bought a new set of Mavic Ksyrium 30 wheels and fitted the original cassette (Shimano CS-HG800) and tires onto them.
On my old wheels (Fulcrum DB 900 OEM), I installed a new cassette (Shimano CS-HG500) and some Schwalbe G-One Allround tires.
Here's the issue: The gears shift perfectly on the old wheels, but they're misaligned on the new Mavic wheels. Specifically, the derailleur won't allow the chain to move onto the 34T cog, seemingly because of a limit screw issue. It looks like the derailleur is "shifted".
Does anyone know what could be causing this and how to fix it? Is there a way to make it work for both wheelsets without having to tune my derailleur every time I swap them (defeating the purpose of easy swap)?
Thanks for your help!
I have canyon strive cfr and I have loose headset bud if I tighten it it is still loose please help