I have an 11 speed chain that I am wanting to put on a bike but it has a 9 Speed Cassette. Is there going to be any issues if I do this? I know the 11 speed chain is more skinny, but other than that.

Used FSA SL-K Light 110 BCD crankset, purchased as spider only without chainrings. 4 of the 5 chainring bolt holes are empty, but one has a threaded steel insert. Is this part of an old 1X conversion that can be removed? I am attempting to put 2X chainrings off of another FSA crankset that did not have this similar steel insert; all five holes were “empty”.

I’m imagining removal of this insert will require a similarly threaded piece of hardware at the easiest and an arbor press with heat at the worst.

Thanks all.

Hi everyone,

I got my first mountain bike today (Rockrider expl 540). It was slightly used and I found out that the stem cap (I think that’s what its called) is missing.

Parts are unavailable where I’m at, can I ride without it? Are there other workarounds?

Basically I need to convert the display units from km/h to mph. As this display does not have Bluetooth compatibility to perform this task I will probably have to use the shimano etube project app. Does anyone know which device/ cables I need to purchase this to be able to connect this up, or if anyone has any other tricks on how to perform this.

Hello everyone,

After waiting for years, I finally upgraded my gravel with a new Canyon Grail CFR Shimano GRX DI2

Unfortunately my rear derailleur doesn't want to downshift, it can only upshift. If I want to downshift it start to make a weird duck noise. It is fully charged and the front derailleur is working perfectly. This happened suddenly while riding last week.

This bike is like 2 months old, I never had a single incident with it and I took very very good care of it.

Anyone has any solution, tips to fix this issue? I have contacted Canyon but they tell me to disassemble the bike and send it back to them (and of course I have to cover the cost for a new bike that is not working properly after 2 months.)

Thanks

Are the hydraulic bleed screws on the Ultegra Di2 and GRX levers identical? OEM they are cheap plastic with a tiny allen key size, and are stripped easily.

So I stripped the bleed port screw. I will find a way to get the screw out. Could use some help figuring out how to replace it. The 105 screw (according to https://www.bikeradar.com/features/bleed-screw-y0mx98020) is different than the Ultegra/DA screw. I looked at the Shimano specs for 105 and found the part number Y0RM98020. I can find one of those screws online but it’s going to take a while to get to me.

Here’s the question: can I use the Ultegra/DA bleed port screw Y0MX98020 given the 12 sp 105 screw (one of which I’ve stripped) is seen as an upgrade to the softer 12 sp Ultegra/DA screw (which I hopefully will not strip)?

I have an Orbea Alma M50 from 2022 and need to replace the headset bearings. Do I need a press or any other specific tools for this?

I would like to be able to learn and do it myself rather than take it to a shop. I have dealt with pressfit bottom brackets before and have a BB press and bearing removal tool.

Thanks!

I recently pulled an old road bike out of storage (probably 20 years old at this point). I have been riding 80-100 miles a week for a little over 2 months. Yesterday, for the second time, I had a spoke on my rear wheel break on a ride.

Is it worth replacing all of the spokes on the wheel at once? Or should I replace them as they break? Or are the wheels old enough to consider replacing them altogether?

Hi, i have the DT Swiss F 1900 CLASSIC 29F 1900 CLASSIC 29 wheelset and i need to tension some nippels (gonna use a tensionmeter, so i am good on that front), but i can't find the right dimenstion for the tensioner tool. these are the nippels used

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/components/spokes-and-nipples/nipples/dt-squorx

but there is no external measurement as far as i see, am i blind?

Has it been anyone else’s experience that you had to bring the spools down one notch on the bent arms to keep them in a spool range of a 700c tire?

All the photos I see online are of MTB bike in the racks normal configuration.

The brake levers are on top of the handlebar, and I don’t understand how to hold this while riding. Can I move them to the front of the bike? If so, how would I do that?

I just bought a Toseek TR5500 Integrated Carbon Fork to install on a Cannondale CAAD12 build. The fork came with a ton of parts and accessories but no instructions.

I have searched the Internet and YouTube and can't find either printed instructions or a youtube installation guide.

I would appreciate pointing me in the right direction so I can finish this build.

Any ideas? More than 10yr old model (Carbon Fiber part broke in two). Found Al replacement in Canada last year (pic). They didn't ship overseas but as soon as I lined up a Mule I was too late- out of stock.

I got a Kona rove off a buddy with a shimano sora 2x9 drivetrain for gravel and some bikepacking in mind. I did my first mini trip and the gearing is way to hard for bikepacking.

As title mentioned, what's the easiest and cheapest way to make the gearing easier for climbing hills with a loaded bike?

The shifting for the front derailleur has 3 modes, so you can adjust the chain line, kinda an in between changing from 1-2 up front.

Would it work to stick a 3x cassette up front and use the same shifter since it has 3 shift increments?

If so what cassette would work?

Or would I have to replace the entire drivetrain?

Hi. Can anybody please tell the length of the quixle axle. It's for a 2023 Canyon Torque. Looking to replace it with a Burgtec one. Thanks

I got my mantis X last week, love it, great bike all around for the money and quality. Only problem is brakes, front works great, but not the back, and also wonder how I can get wheels to spin more freely in neutral and how to adjust brakes. Anyone got any tips or tutorials to work and adjust the breaks? Thanks!

I am trying to build up a Felt B12 TT bike frame and am slowly finding my way with a few things but one particular aspect of installing the brake cables has got me stumped.

I have a TT base bar with holes to allow the brake cables to exit the underside of the bar fairly close to the stem on each side. I have tried cutting the appropriate length of cable outer and adding ferrules to each end but what I am finding is that the ferrules are narrower than the holes in the bar so as soon as the cable goes tight, a whole section of the cable outer disappears into the bar and the ferrule comes off and gets stuck inside.

Ferrules seem to be a standard size. So what can I do to get the ferrule to stop at the hole in the bar and not disappear into it? I realise this may well be a stupid question but any suggestions welcome!

I tried to lubricate the pivot points on the derailleur and replaced the cable.

Note: I am able to shift the chain into the large chainring, but it feels too difficult. It is much easier to shift from large to small chainring though.

I just put a Tubus Vega rack on a Surly Bridge Club XS but unfortunately the rack platform is not even because the bike has a very sloping down tube. This means the struts start very low (short seat tube) and they don't reach long enough to level the platform. How can I best solve this? Just find some long aftermarket struts somehow? Couldn't find anything :/

I am trying to figure out how to center 29" rear wheel (boost) by moving it about 5mm to the chain side. The wheel is DT Swiss M 1700. Do I need to redish it by turning the spokes quarter turn? Right and left spokes to a different direction, to straighten and loosen thoose? Is it doable at home? Any chance to damage the wheel?

Thanks