/r/M1Rifles
THE place for M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, M14's, and Mini-14's!
THE place for M1 Garands, M1 Carbines, M14's, and Mini-14's!
As well as any variants of these firearms:
Additional Resources:
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/r/M1Rifles
Need help with identifying what wood I have on this one. Looks like a birch stock? Also, is the amount of finish wear near the muzzle normal for a service grade? First order from CMP, so just curious. TE 1+ ME 2
Just got my m1 and will be taking it out for the first time tomorrow. When I bottom out my elevation it looks like this. Is that normal?
Received my first M1 Garand from the CMP today. A Service Grade with a 1944 Springfield receiver.
Very happy with the rifle and pleased with the experience overall. I was one of the people who sent in their packet when the CMP appeared to accidentally restock their site. Decent turnaround (sent 9/30), and they didn’t charge me for shipping.
original problem was my .308 garand oprod was super stiff and i had to smack it to chamber in my first round. upon advice from some of you, i tried the tilt test and it passed it flawlessly, both sliding the bolt backwards and forwards. when I reassembled and worked the action, the oprod jumped the track again and this time, I noticed that it is barely inside the track and i could even get it to come off with little effort like in the video. I'm guessing this isn't normal but what are my options?
Picked up a rack special .308 Garand today. Drove down to Talladega to shoot it, however I noticed whenever I put an enbloc clip in, it is extremely hard to chamber that first round. It is to the point I need to smack the oprod a few times to get that first round chambered. The remaining 7 rounds chamber smoothly.
Is this normal/ do I just need to break the gun in by firing it more or is this a problem?
Thank you!
The paper work was "blurry" when I printed it. Do they care about this or should I re print it. I feel like it doesn't matter because they know where everything is on the form.
Alternatively, "don't talk to me or my son ever again"
Mini 14 was a gift from my dad and it's such a blast to shoot.
M1 is a CMP field grade. Received is a 1943 Springfield Armory and your expected mishmash of rebuild parts with a CMP gas cylinder. Despite the throat being a 5+ and the muzzle being a 3+ it's a sweet shooter. Barrel is a 1955 LMR.
Maybe one day I'll deep dive and fill out a parts sheet to learn where all the parts were made but for now I'll just enjoy the rifle.
Hey guys, I live in CA. So I can’t have mags larger than 10. My m1 carbine has some mag issues. Since can’t legally buy USGI mags, where can I find decently priced, decent quality 10 round Carbine mags
Hi folks, anyone know the manufacturer of this clip from the stamp?
I remember awhile ago I think it was in this subreddit someone had a link to a website or forum that had an expert breakdown of all the different grades for the CMP Garands in detail and I can't seem to find it through the oceans of posts here and was wondering if anyone knew what I was talking about and could maybe help me find it.
My mag seems like garbage. Fails to feed every other round almost. Its feeding lip is very wobbly and it seems to angle the cartridge up. Is this normal? The bottom says “shoot more.com” better magazine options?
Anyone have a quick rundown on how to interpret serial numbers?
Also what does everyone suggest for stock care?
Finally the foregrip is a little loose, is that normal?
Thanks!
I finally got a gun I've wanted since I was a child. Hats off to CMP Talladega, they made the process so easy and had all the information I needed. Walked in with my information, walked out with an expert grade M1.
I got my field grade Garand from the CMP about a month ago. Went and shot 40 rds through it no issues. Went home, disassembled, cleaned, and oiled it. Checked function, everything was fine. Next time at the range, put another 40 rds through it also no issues. I recently learned that M1s function best with grease instead of oil, so today I disassembled the rifle, wiped the oil off and greased it instead. Much smoother action now. But when I tested the function, the bolt will not close when the clip is inserted.
After looking at it, I found it’s because the op rod catch does not drop down enough. However, it will release with just the slightest pull back on the op rod, as this releases the catch. I’ve attached a video showing this in action. I find it odd this just started after reassembly today. Anyone know what’s going on?
A few notes:
This is not the tight clip snag, where all you have to do is give the op rod a little shove forward.
I did some research and found a common wear point is the nub on the bullet guide, and that it should measure 0.179” give or take 0.004” mine measures exactly 0.179”. I ordered a new one just to try it. It’s supposed to arrive on Thursday.
Worn pin: I’m talking the pin that the follower arm, bullet guide, and op rod catch all share. When I disassembled the rifle this morning I noticed the head of the pin was sticking out a bit. I’m not sure if I didn’t fully seat it the first time or if it had somehow walked itself out a bit. Could running the rifle like this have possibly bent the pin slightly or wore it out of round? It looks fine to me and is seated fully now, but this seems like a design where thousandths really matter.
Improper reassembly: This seems like the most likely cause as it just started happening today after greasing and reassembly. As mentioned, this is my second time tearing it down and had no issues after the first time. I’ve messed with it on and off all day and I don’t really see another way it could be assembled, but please correct me if I’m wrong.
Any help is appreciated