Title pretty much says it.

I'm doing a Sten mk3 SA build and wasn't sure what parts are to be finished (btw im using spray on truck bed liner, so far it's like parkerizing in a can) because even with thinner paints it seems parts that should fit no longer do, for example the selector switch, the barrel bushings, the barrel, etc. i assume the inner tube (from breach backwards) stays raw, but the barrel, if fully painted, will not fit in the bushings, and with my build im making the barrel removable (and the barrel jacket ventilated, so that will be finished inside) So im not sure how to go about this without causing fitting issues.

Picked this guy up today, curious how yall would add a sling point to the rear of this rifle. Stock is nolonger in production so would prefer to not do too much to it. Thanks in advance!

Hey all,

Is there a best choice in terms of torch fuel or type for loosening Loctite on gun parts? Propane, butane, even lighter fluid?

I am working with Loctite 242, 243 (Blue), 271 (Red), and 609 (green, retaining compound, recommended by manufacturer for gas block).

Mainly working on AR-15 parts, aluminum receiver and stainless steel barrel. Stainless barrel is bead-blasted finish and receiver is mil std hard coat plus Teflon coating, if that matters.

It will be my first time doing these things so please explain like I'm five. I would be mortified to ruin parts with improper heating.

have a 1943 Browning Hi Power from WW2. Took it to the range about a year ago. I let my friend shoot it and stepped away for 2 minutes to take a piss. When I came back the front sight had come out. I have talked to a couple gunsmiths they said nothing can be done without destroying the historical value of the gun. It's basically retired at this point; I have newer guns for range use but every time I go through and oil my guns, I see it and it makes me sad. I figured no harm in asking everyone here, maybe someone has an idea for me. I probably would shoot it like once a year if it had the sight, but at this point it's just a collector piece for me. Thank you for any help.

https://preview.redd.it/ht49204srlyd1.jpg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3d737c87a8bd930c5dd013c3b2c8a84c78c25b01

https://preview.redd.it/nykw1fxsrlyd1.jpg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a60b628a07226ade11dd7702a4319a0743c04396

I'm planning on trying to make some custom grips and I'd like to add some small medallions but I've never done anything quite like that. Is it as simple as inleting enough for it to drop in flush and adding a little glue? Is there a certain type of glue you'd recommend? Or an entirely different method of joining the pieces entirely perhaps? Any tips or tricks are appreciated

The swivel stud keeps coming out of a synthetic stock forearm. What is the best course of action to repair it? I’m thinking dremel out the existing epoxy and install a new swivel stud with a different epoxy?

Any recommendations on how to or what epoxy to use are appreciated!

Took out my DD5 306 16” and put a good 100 rounds through it. Get it home and look in the muzzle and see some yellow oxide in the flash hider , inside. Remembered my welding class in HS about CR6 ect. Ordered a CR6 test swab and it popped positive. I learned cr6 was some priest nasty stuff and was curious if any other people have encountered it? It’s a stainless steel flash hider. Just can’t seem to find anything on it online? Any gunsmiths encounter this? How do you handle it?

Swivel stud keeps stripping out and then popping out after some previous epoxy repair. Any advice on how to fix it? My plan is to dremel the old epoxy out and then go back with some other material to hold the stud in.

Thank you!

For those of you who’ve done bead blasting to achieve a “velvet” matte finish (stainless revolver for example), what media and grit do you suggest?

I'm curious is it possible to DIY early folded head,British Martini Henry & Morse cartridge and early centerfire primer like the bar anvil & benét primed? Any help is appreciated

Inherited this 1980 Remington 1100 from my wife's grandpa. He bought it new and never shot it. Did a function test after cleaning then shot 3 rounds of trap. Noticed after going to clean it, the inside of the handguard is cracking. There is a metal reinforcement ring under it. How hard would this be to fix/ how would I do it?

I have two Springfield Trapdoors (45-70 and 50-70) with good lands and grooves (after a lot of mechanical cleaning) and only scattered superficial pitting not counting the last couple of inches on the 45-70. There are now some scattered clean spots but most of the bore has lead. Tried Lead Out and Bore Out and not sure how effective that is. I don’t know what barrel lead does over the decades but I have shot some very old 41 Colt that keyholed because the lead had become so hard with age. I have to think something like that has happened to the barrel lead. Got what appears to be a working Outers electrolysis unit but it goes to clean after a couple of minutes on both guns. Wonder if someone replaced the solution with plain water. Got one of those units that lets you set voltage and amperage ( for testing on my cars) and will try that next. But for this weekend, I degrease the barrels plugged the breaches and filled it with this suppressor cleaner. One of my 22 suppressors is 7 years old and it eventually got all the old lead off the baffles along with ultrasonic cleaning and mechanical (steel baffles of course). Lead did not just melt off. I tried the suppressor cleaner for a few hours a couple of months ago and couldn’t tell it did anything. I am just hopping that after a lot more mechanical work, possibly taking off hardened outside lead, that it might do something. Plus I’m going to leave it for 3 days. Tried this with Ballistol and nothing. And of course I tried a heavy dose or 2 of Kroil. And Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner and copper Choreboy. Brownells never has the Lewis lead cleaner available in 45 and 50.

So do you expect failure of this experiment? Back to scrubbing most likely.

I'm trying to find a new trigger assembly or replacement parts. So far i haven't been able to find ANYTHING. Anyone care to point me in a direction? I just need the tension spring that goes behind the hammer catch

So, I don't know if this is the right place for this kind of question, but could the M8 Greyhound from WW2 be able to utilize a 25mm Bushmaster Chaingun or a 40mm Bofor Canon and not breakdown in a relatively quick time span? Also could the turret fit an autoloader for either of those?

Howdy, so recently (~4-6weeks ago) I shot my rifle (14.5in pin and weld) with a suppressor for the first time. Afterwards it will only cycle certain ammo types. I typically shoot PMC bronze PSP (3200 fps mv) and pre supressor had no issues. Now the rifle will only cycle Winchester white box 62 gr green tip (3240 fps mv) or “hotter” I’ve tried adjusting the gas every way imaginable but when I shoot the PSP I get ejection but failure to feed, it’s as if the BCG doesn’t cycle far enough back to cycle the next round. Easy answer is only shoot 62gr but I feel as if a rifle that only cycles with certain ammo is next to worthless. Second easiest answer is a lightweight buffer but I also feel as if this is a bandaid for a potentially real issue. Where do I start? How expensive is this gonna be? I plan to replace the gas tube but want some expert opinion. TIA

I cant find the 2 piece anywhere so I was wondering if the 1 piece will work on my older model.

I was replacing blown gas rings and noticed the ejector roll pin sticking out a bit. I tried to tap it back in with a punch and bent my Amazon 1/16" punch.

The screw on my bolt is stripped to hell. Any ideas where I can order a new part or how to fix it? I've been suggested welding.

Hi,

looking for any info or to confirm that a savage small shank barrel will fit a Mossberg Patriot? From what i can find, it uses 1-1/16" * 20 tpi, which the savage uses, but wanted an expert to weigh in. I have emailed mossberg, but have not had any reply yet.

For background, Im a long time shooter have built many ARs, but have never done any modifications to a bolt-Thank you in advance

Can this be done? Advice and recommendations welcome. Do you know a smith who might be willing to help with this project?

I'm designing a gun prototype and need help with the fire control system for the plasma spark ignition system. Extraction in many modern firearms use a gas piston system for semi automatic and automatic fire. The plasma gun will use a plasma spark ignition system to ignite the bullet propellant and replace the need for a primer.In theory I want to use a short stroke piston system for the bolt carrier group. I'm just about ready to hire an electrical engineer to create the battery system and computer for the guns ammo counter. All I need to do is engineer the bullet, bolt, and the breech. If I can't figure this out, I'll just build it as a bolt action rifle. All of my bullet designs for the bullet for the plasma gun is rim fire. Idk how to redesign the bullet for center fire.

Hi all, we m located in the UK and spare parts for American made winchesters are like hens teeth. I’ve got a 94AE in .44mag and the ejector spring has run a cropper. Has anyone had any luck with off the shelf springs vs a direct replacement from Winchester? I’ve massaged the spring so it functions but it will only be a matter of time before it gives up. Cheers