Just finished putting this 1911 together and the slide seems to be locking forward and unable to move unless you slam the slide into something, the pins,springs,guide rod are all in place as should be any suggestions help!!!!!

Probably won’t.

I’m embarking on my first AR build, nerve wrecking and exciting all at the same time. It’ll be a 10” AR pistol in 300blk, I’m planning on suppressing. What goes into picking a muzzle device, obviously depends on suppressor, correct? What’re some budget friendly options?

So I recently started a new job and because of a report I did on submachine guns I got tasked with modifying and modernising a failed project from the 90s, most people in my department think it’s useless and impossible but for my pride I need to do what I can. I need to increase the rate of fire and muzzle velocity as minimum. I’m looking for books and also advice how to achieve that.

Hey all. So I was cleaning out a closet in my house that I inherited from my Great Grandad, and under a pile of clothes I found a Webley Mark VI. She looks to be in excellent condition, and there is some ammo for it, but is there any way I can evaluate it to determine if it's safe to shoot?

I have a smith and Wesson model 65-6 that I really wanted to buy. I am not familiar with s&w revolvers so idk if they all feel like this but my main reason to want to buy this was because of how moth the single action trigger pull was. Oh my god it was so light, best way I can describe it is if you put even the lightest touch on the trigger it goes off. Imagine a feather landing a trigger and setting it off, it was that smooth. BUT…. The gun has scratches, I should’ve taken a better picture but this is the only one I took. I’m supposed to meet up with this guy in two weeks at the next gun show to buy it but am i overreacting about the scratches? Gun comes with an extra set of the same grips and the original box.

Great grandpappy's model 12 just came my way allegedly from 1912 and rebarreled in '25. I understand it was refinished in BLO round a hundred years ago and likely not touched since. Feels pitted and dry and I'd like to make sure it's still gorgeous in another hundred. Was thinking I pull the stock and foreend and wash with dish soap, steam any bad spots with a wet washcloth and iron, then wipe with BLO/cure/repeat till it's good and add a new coat every year or two? I have a few other rifles and shotguns from the 50s to early 2000s I'd love to maintain as well, but not sure how to look up what finish is on them. Thanks for the help!

I am looking to replace the A2 flash hider on my RDB with a KeyMicro muzzle device for future use with a suppressor. I am running into an issue with the jam nut that comes stock on the barrel. Without the jam nut the barrel threads are too long for the muzzle device to get to the shoulder and I don't have enough shims to make up the difference. With the jam nut on I can not get a wrench in to tighten down the muzzle device meaning I'll need to get a thinner crescent wrench than what I've got to make it work.

My question is whether I am better off with about 3/16" worth of shims between the barrel shoulder and the muzzle device, or just leaving the jam nut on. I'll be heading to a hardware store either way and I am looking for opinions as to which would be the best option

Hello. I recently purchased a Henry Big Boy .357 model X and everything about it is great except the length of pull. As a shorter guy I would prefer the stock to be a bit shorter.

My question is what is the viability of trimming down a synthetic stock and if it is viable should I try it or should I find a gunsmith near where I live. Another question is for a guy that's around 5'7/5'8 what would yall think would be a good length to trim it down to. Thanks in advanced!

I have a nagant revolver that has a ruff cylinder. I’ve tried cleaning it up with steel wool and oil but it hasn’t help. I have some ultra fine scotch brite pads. If I’m careful would that work. Or should I just go at it more with steel wool.

Howdy yall, I’m currently trying to fix my glenfield model 60 .22

About 10 years ago it was taken apart and I’m pretty sure a spring was lost by me, my cousin said it was a specific spring but he couldn’t find it online.

Symptoms are it will only fire when turned upside down and given a shake, it has no trigger and it won’t reset until this is done.

https://imgur.com/gallery/9fov6l4

It’s been awhile since I’ve used my 870, it’s chambered in 2 3/4” 12ga so if I put a 12ga 3” barrel on it then it takes 3” correct and will the slide handle the larger shells (not magnum). I thought about getting a benelli M4 but for 2500.$ I could get a lot of Remingtons lol

My friends sks is having some issues. He was uninformed and shot a significant amount of likely corrosive ammunition through the rifle and then let it sit for 2-3 days before cleaning it.

Its of course now my job to make it work again as he isn't aware of how to fix it.

I did a deep clean and oil of the rifle (ultrasonic bath for the carrier and a lot of barrel scrubbing) and attempted to test fire it.

on the first round I got a light primer strike and attempted to rechamber the round. I got another light strike on the same round and found that the bolt had locked up requiring me to mortar the rifle to clear the chamber.

Back at home I completely disassembled the rifle yet again to inspect the parts for any damage and found nothing obviously wrong with the rifle.

After re assembling the rifle and testing with snap caps Its still consistently locking forwards, often requiring significant force (bashing it on the floor) to get it to open up again.

I want to say the success rate of getting the bolt open on the first pull is around 20-30%.

The other thing I have observed is that the bolt is quite stiff in general and gets noticeably harder to pull back around the half way mark.

He isn't in the financial state to be able to take it to a gunsmith but I am open to replacing some parts out of pocket for him if needed.

Photos can be requested and any help is greatly appreciated.

https://preview.redd.it/0wmsp7l8sg4e1.png?width=413&format=png&auto=webp&s=cbd0ee643de1789a698f6ba4d4e27aef2be1cef7

specifically this part . i have a lower frame but lack these parts . I would be glad if you guys could provide me with some blueprints

it would be great if you could provide me with the measurements too

I’m working on removing some rust from a Stevens 220 shotgun. The receiver was color case hardened and some of the color is still visible. Is there a way to remove the rust without removing the coloring?

Hello guys, not sure if it's right to ask but out of curiosity what's the average price range of a pin%weld job, more specific, pin and welding of a muzzle brake for an ar platform? Thank you.

I read an article one time about using some epoxy to totally back fill the preexisting inletting of a stock, and then re inletting it for a different rifle and painting over the completed stock. Has anyone done this? I don’t see a reason it wouldn’t work so long as you had the right epoxy, but I have no idea what that might be. I’ve considered bondo but don’t know if that would stay attached to the base wood under recoil. Also considered milling out the action section entirely and gluing in a new piece of wood but same concern applies

I recently swapped stocks on my savage 111 chambered in 30-06 when I was reassembling the trigger guard the plastic tab for the take down button that engages a lever to take down the bolt was chewed up and the button stopped working. I replaced the trigger guard with a new one. It seems to work fine,but I found this in the box I had everything in and am at a loss where it came from. Spacer? It looks to be a lock washer it has a split in it. Anyone know if this is a savage trigger part or did I coincidentally find a washer thats