Happy Saturday everyone.

I am hoping someone can advise me here, I’ve got an Aero M4E1 threaded receiver and I am trying to fit an MK18 style handrail.

It seems like the barrel nut that came with the hand guard is garbage and is not deep enough to reach the end plate that the rail attaches to.

The plate moves with the barrel nut torqued. Is there anything I can do here? I’ve reached out to the manufacturer already and awaiting a response.

Here is a link with some photos and video:

https://imgur.com/a/qPfRF0S

A budy of mine asked me if I could build an ant for him. He got the tax stamp and gave me all the parts yesterday. It is an 10.5 inch barrel with a mid length gas system and it is chambered in 5.56. I took it out to the range to test fire it today and it failed to cycle. I tested it with 55gr fmj as well as 62gr m855 and both failed to cycle the weapon.

Since this is my first time building an ar15 from scratch I figured that the gas block was slightly off center. So I took a look at it when I got back to the house and everything was lined up correctly.

My current theory is that the dwell time is too high and the gas block isn’t siphoning off enough gas to properly cycle the weapon, but I’m not sure. Looking for second opinions.

Edit: When I say it’s not cycling I mean that it isn’t cycling fully. The bolt moves back just enough to eject the spent casing, but when I go to fire a second shot nothing happens and I have to rack the charging handle to feed another round.

I know that he is planning on this being a home defense build but I am not certain if he is planning on running a suppressor. I know suppressors increase back pressure, but would that be enough to then get the gun to cycle properly?

The boresnake pull part broke using a brass rod didn't get it out n pulling on it from the chamber end didn't work any ideas

Began checkering my first front strap today. I used a Power Custom jig for the horizontals and the pictured piece of flat plate steel for the verticals. I jumped to the verticals without finishing the horizontals because this is an exercise to tune my technique. So, I’m not sweating the mistakes I’ve made so far.
I’ve got another Tisas waiting at my FFL, which will be final practice for my ultimate build. If I screw the pooch on that gun, I’ll probably just have my gunsmith do the work on my ultimate.

Btw, this is a ton of work!

New Glock 27gen 3 with less than 1k rounds through it. Is it possible to fix this or should I just start looking for a replacement. Also, what caused this? Gun was running fine then a failure to eject mid mag. Noticed the slide was out of battery once I tried clearing it, took it apart to find this. Factory blazer ammo and occasional Hornady critical defense are all I’ve ran through it.

Hello!

This pistol went from my aunt to my dad and now that he's passed, I'm picking it up. It's missing 2 screws; one from each side of the grip plates. I have no part info. Any help or suggestions?

Edit- Got em!

Hi everyone, I've had to swap triggers between 2 SWs 625-8, one had the smooth one (I'll call it gun A) while the other had the serrated kind (gun B).

I've taken the smooth trigger from A and installed it on B. Gun B worked perfectly, but it also had an apex trigger kit already on it.

Gun A, to which I've installed both the trigger and the hammer from gun B, keep doing light strikes. I've checked the main spring and it is at its maximum tension. At the moment the only variable seems to be the hammer block: with it the gun won't set off any primer, without it goes ok. I've tried using both hammer blocks from A or B.

Online and on the literature I could find it seems that the internal parts of modern SW won't need fitting, but at this point I'm afraid I'm a bit lost, so do you have any suggestions ? Thank you and be patient please, English is not my first language.

Apparently my last post had to many words, fine, ok, ill simplify it.

I love guns, a lot. I love their history, i love their engineering, i love the mechanics, i love taking them apart and putting them back together.

I love math and physics, and not in that "i watch lots of pop science YouTube videos" way, but in a "i was majoring in physics in university before having to drop out thanks to a decade long illness" way. I was good at it and i miss it sincerly.

I live in Canada. While we have gunsmiths here, our laws are just to suffocating, i want variety, i want to have options, i want more then an endless wall of woodstock hunting rifles.

What school should i go to? What state? What do i need to be a student in a different country, what do i need to move to and work in a different country?

Is there anything else that useful to know? You can type a whole bunch of "ohh, its super hard, you shouldn't do it" replies but it wont actualyl stop me.

Looking to glass bed a rifle soon, but their Acra release spray isn’t currently available online. Has anyone tried any alternative epoxy mold-release kind of sprays with Acraglass? If so, suggestions would be appreciated

as the title says. i think it would look cool and using tracers would make it look even cooler

My rifle has recently been heavily scratched and am wondering where to buy bluing solution from in order to coat the scratches. Any ideas from which company to buy solution from. For context the rifle is a BSA, 1960s model. Sorry if model isn't specific enough, that's all I know about the model.

This is it (not my photo)

Hello, I am having trouble taking the bolt out of this .22 and I do not want to force it. I gave it some oil and it won’t budge. What should I do?

I have an antique Winchester model 1894 that has a good bit of leading that I need to get out of it

Would this stuff be good to get it out?

This roll pin punch is very stuck inside a roll pin. I think the punch may be too big for the pin. This is a Henry bolt. The pin isn’t moving at all when I hit it with a rubber mallet. How can I get the punch out, and bonus question how do I get the roll pin out?

Got my self a Mohegan by New York pistol co Wich is just a revolver made by hood fire arms that was rebranded much like the sears 22lr rifles does anyone know what model was rebranded as the Mohegan?

Hello all. I have a Remington 1100 LT 20ga that is having issues cycling. I am able to fire the first shell that is loaded directly into the open action however, the next shell gets stuck about halfway out of the magazine tube with the action left open. Typically I can tug the bolt handle back and get the shell to load. I've already replaced the carrier assembly, action spring, and barrel seal. At this point I'm thinking it could be the magazine spring. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know of a good source to learn up on charcoal bluing? I’ve done Parkerizing for a few months now. I really want to get into charcoal bluing and become good at it. Does anyone have any good sources or recommendations I could go to? Thanks

I know Pickles is currently out of commission and hear horror stories about Tornado.
Any suggestions?

I'm having a lot of trouble removing the rear sight of off my m16a1 my 1/16 punch seems too big to fit into the hole to knock out that roll pin despite reading that that was the right size but even past that I just can't get this roll pin to budge is there like a trick or step I'm missing or something?

Bought a new in box Tipton Ultra vise from a secondary seller. Broke a clamp knob off first time messing with it. Reached out to Tipton and response I got is “we don’t sale service parts”. I can probably figure out something to make it work… but a $150-$200 product and they don’t have replacement parts for it? Anybody else dealt with anything similiar?