So, I have been looking to get into reloading and from some research it seems 45 long colt is a rather forgiving load and is able to be done with the pictured kit. Seemed like a good option to explore as a newbie so I bought it. Hopefully an ok purchase? Was looking for some general advice with the kit if anyone has used it as well as any recommendations of bullets/primers/powder for 45lc ect? Any help would be appreciated as this will be my first attempts at reloading.

So I'm buying 2 dillon 550 presses and 4 heads set up for different calibers already from a guy on a paintball site and it's coming with a tumbler but no media.

My question is what should I get for media in the tumbler and what other items will I need besides a scale, a trickler and case/media separator?

Are trimming and deburring necessary every time you reload a case?

Just generally lost on what I will need all together.

All right everyone, I don’t know if I’m stupid or if I need to invest in a better powder dispenser. I’ve got a Hornday lock and load powder measure and I cannot seem to get any level of reasonable consistency out of it. On average, I’m getting where anywhere from plus or minus one gr of powder. I’d be happy if it was within 2/10-3/10 of a gr variation, but no matter what I do I can’t seem to get it even remotely close to that. Any advice I’ve, used several different types of powder and played with it quite a bit, but I’m at wits end. I’m about ready to break down and buy an electric dispenser.

So, I just acquired a Lyman 55, after having only loaded by weighing each charge on a scale, and I'm finding the charge can vary by as much as half a grain between throws. Now, I'm seeing lots of advice about adjusting the large bar vs the small bar for the charge, tapping between throws etc, and I'm sure I can get better results after some more practice with this thing. But I'm more wondering what is the level of precision I should expect from this or other powder measures, tenth of a grain consistency? Hundredth?

Part of my concern is that I'm loading .44 mag with H110 and the data shows a min of 22.5 grains and max of 23.5 grains. So with only 1 grain of difference I'm trying to be pretty precise, am I being overly anal trying to keep each cartridge within a couple of 100ths of each other?

27.0 gr of AR Comp. Hornady 123 gr ELD match, Nosler brass. This was the first load of the ladder and was the best. Did not chrono yet. But I'm expecting something like 2400 fps.

Just FYI, shooters in Hooksett has LRP and LRMP. I'm picking up a few bricks for sure.

I'm thinking Ruger precision

Hi. Perhaps indirectly there have been posts dealing with 300BLK reloading issues (failure for bolt to close, issues trying to manually extract live round in chamber). I initially bought once fired 300blk cases ( not converted .223) no issues using the Lee sizing depriming die (which sells for $23 or $58 with 3 dies the powder, and crimping die). I found a good deal on converted .223 once fired brass converted to .300blk. And found issues where the bolt would not close all the way and difficulty extracting the unfired round. I googled this and found Forster die might be the answer. So $70 (with tax) goes to Amazon and I found the Forster is a serious die it has a weep hole for excess case lube and air to escape. Plus an EZ bell which is part of the depriming assembly. Now my reloaded rounds drop into the chamber and the bolt closes easily (AR) I’m excited!

These cases are interesting, yet pointless. With seemingly no documentation on how to reload these successfully, I've set out to make it work as a somewhat fun experiment. Sharing if anyone has ideas to throw out and to at least put something on the internet about this.

The MFG states they can be reloaded. I've determined this is either a gross exaggeration or only in special cases. Shell Shock and s3 reload have not returned my emails. 3rd party companies state that these are not reloadable.

The goal is to at least tighten the measurements after one firing. I've ruled out neck sizing only for now until I do various pressure loads.

After firing, the base of the case near the rim crimp will expand .005-.008" and shoulder moves .001-.003" out of a tight spec chamber on a gas gun. They will not pass SAMMI gauges and the cause is inconstant. Sometimes the neck doesn't pass, sometimes it hangs at the rim. In most cases they still meet max SAMMI specs.

COAL doesn't really move at all. Smoking the case reveals that base expansion is the problem in most cases along with the shoulder expansion. Appears to happen on high-pressure supers, and I'm gathering data on low/high pressure subs and low pressure supers. Also gathering data on lock-time to see if it has a noticeable effect with various rifles.

They are not resizable in standard or carbine dies in my findings. They will absolutely get stuck or sticky and the case rim will pull off.

So far I've tried the following with limited success and have hit a wall with my current equipment.

• Neck only resizing with a collet die. This at least sets the neck tension to allow seating in my rifle, but isn't feasible as I have no knowledge on the potential danger of the base further expanding.
• Slowly walk it into a FL resizing die while rotating it. Worked once.
• Slowly walk it into a polished standard die. Worked once.

Next possible steps:

• Run them through a .380 Lee bulge buster to set the base, resize using neck/shoulder sizing die without expander to bump the shoulder, followed by a collet die.

• Create a polyurethane spring pusher similar to the S3 Reload 9mm nas3 die.

• Create a coil spring, solenoid or pneumatic spring to mount onto a die.

• Modify a single stage press with second hand pneumatic rams to push and pull through the die. This is going too far and die life will be a joke.

• Bushing die, with possible custom bushings.

• Find a max-spec SAMMI gauge to test multiple firings. Kinda lost on this one.

I’m looking at Sig’s new caliber offerings to the DoD and it appears they are really doubling down on this high pressure ammo stuff.

At the same time, we are seeing some experimental engineering with alpha munitions brass:

https://youtu.be/uXkmcpk7Brc?si=GweKyCa_knFT2IvA

So my questions are:

• is high pressure ammo going to be the next thing?
• how does one even begin to define what safe boundaries look like?

Assuming a world where high pressure 6.5CM exists from Sig or others, can it be reasonable to assume the new case design that will not impose any additional bolt thrust?

The old, don’t try this at home kids, will obviously be ignored by everyone in pursuit of the next hot thing… So what kind of protocols would the reloading world need to start adopting as far as used ammo, ammo life and testing, to make sure one doesn’t delete themselves?

Does anyone have load info for 300 savage ? Or tips to make 300 savage brass from 308 ? I have an old savage 99 that I enjoy shooting from time to time and ammo is hard to get for it so I got a fl die set to reload what I currently have stocked up for it.

Looking for a crimp die that will thread into my lee press, what's my options?

I'm specifically reloading 357mag with powdercoated cast projectiles sized to .360 (shooting from a microgroove marlin, so they need to be on the fat side). I've got the Lee 357mag crimp die but I've read this stages bullets?

Greetings, recently I took a Winchester 1895 (7.62x54R) and a Springfield 1899 Carbine (.30-40 Krag) shooting.

When firing both of these the gas distinctly smelled like chlorine, or being around an indoor swimming pool. As compared to firing .30-06 in my Garand which didn’t have this particular smell at all.

The Mosin ammo was Sellier & Bellot. The Krag was Remington. What was the source of this pool chemical/chlorine smell? I came to r/reloading first because if anyone has expertise to answer my weird question, they’re here.

EDIT: Somebody mentioned ammonia and I’d say that’s closer to what I remember than chlorine.

I originally had zero interest in the this new chambering. Haven't paid it any attention at all since it came out a couple years ago. But, I have an 8+1 Shield 1.0 that I carry in the summer, like most of us, when my clothing is lighter. I came across a Shield Plus in 30 SC (16+1) for $299, and figured I'll just slap my 1.0 9mm slide/barrel on it, load 13+1, and call it a day. So, I bought it.

But, I've been a reloader for about 25 years, so I figured I might as well look into reloading components and data for the 30 SC. I like to have that stuff for every caliber of firearm I own. Turns out... This little round is a hotrod. A 52,000 psi hotrod. Load data even calls for small rifle primers; not small pistol. Basically a 30 Carbine Short. Hell... 30 Carbine cartridge is only rated at 40,000 psi. The ballistic reports are that this little round, with a 115 grain .312 projectile can about match and even sometimes exceed the ballistic performance of 9mm.

So, I plan on seeing just how far I can push this little round with some load development. Maybe see if I can build a little carbine for it for some matches or varmint hunting. Should be a bit of fun.

Tl;dr - Is it safe to reload and fire old 9mm Luger brass with these vertical creases on the case body?

I had a couple of boxes of old 9mm brass passed down to me. Some were fired, some were deprimed and some primed and ready for loading.

I deprimed, cleaned and resized the lot. A couple with case mouth cracks were discarded. Some didn't want to go into the shell holder (case rim issues?) and then some of the cases had these kind of vertical creases on case body.

I know these were previously reloaded, but I don't know how many times or any other history of this brass. FWIW the headstamps include: HP HP-3-76 9

• HP * 9mm

W-W 9mm LUGER

Are these good for more action (specifically those with these creases), or do I chuck it in the recycling bin?

(ps I am a bit of an OCD brass hoarder...)

3.5 grains of HP38

Hi - very new reloader here - so I loaded 100 hornady 124gr XTP hollow points on this brass with no issue. Now I'm trying to load hornady 115gr FMJ bullets on the same brass. Brass has been cleaned, resized, and primed. Problem: Some of the bullets are seating to the correct COL, but others go wayyy too far in (see image). 

https://preview.redd.it/tkkjilmkliyc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=fb73ca3adb6939415bde8796bfcee23646ed6802

I have tried re-seating the bullets on the brass when they went too far in, but subsequent attempts went just as far. I have also tried re-sizing these brasses, then re-seating the bullets - same issue. 

Note: I'm using a Lee hand loader - like, the one where you have to use a hammer, not a hand press. I'm not changing the length of the bullet seater AT ALL between rounds that seat correctly and rounds that don't seat correctly, which is confusing me. What could be going wrong here?

I'm wondering why I'm suddenly getting this issue. Two guesses as to why:

1. I was using virgin brass before, and that somehow helped me with seating depth, without me knowing (maybe my resizing die sucks?)
2. Hollow point XTP bullets are easier to seat for some reason (maybe the FMJ bullets slip more?)

Any input is appreciated!

Like title says I am new to precision shooting - I reload other rifle calibers but not precision cartridges.

Is it worth spending the 3X on Forster products or should I spend literally a third of the cost and get the die set for the caliber?

I’m fighting between 110 on Redding set or 290ish on Forster