New to reloading and shot my first batch of 9mm.

Factory load on the left, my load on the right.

Is this a sign of not enough case pressure?

4.5gr HP-38 115gr Hornady HAP Winchester Small Pistol Primer

Homemade tumbler made from scrapmetal old wiper motor and cheap motor speed regulator from aliexpres ( i spend only 20$ to bulid this)

3x fired PPU 8x57mm brass, White River Energetics LRP’s, 28.0 grains of IMR 4198, and a cast, powder coated, gas checked Lee 324-175 bullet

Is the a centerfire cartridge for rimfire replacement? I'm looking for a similar performance to 22wmr or 17hmr for small game/varmint, but wanting to reload the catridge.

Starting to reload for the first time. I have a .243 win bolt gun, 6.5 cm bolt gun, 5.56 gas gun, 6mm arc gas gun, and a 9mm carbine I want to reload for. Some bulk (.243 5.56 and 9mm) and some for accuracy (6.5cm and 6mm arc) any tips? .243 and 6mm arc with probably be 103gr ELDX, 6.5 cm will be 140gr SMK, 5.56 will be 55gr FMJ, and 9mm will be 115gr FMJ

As title states I reamed some brass with a pocket primer reamer on my dewalt drill and noticed a few cases that I guess I didn't angle it straight.

Are these pieces of brass still good or trash? Also I'll be shooting these with a suppressor.

I’d like to reload 38, 357, 45 acp, 45 Colt.

https://www.sportsmans.com/shooting-gear-gun-supplies/reloading-equipment-supplies/reloading-presses-kits/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-reloading-kit/p/1259529

Took out my handloads consisting of 185 grain cast GC bullets powder coated over a mild load of IMR4227. Velocities were 2090 and 1960 fps from 25” and 18” barrels respectively and accuracy was decent, but the problem is apparent in the picture. The handloads were once fired S&B brass full length resized, and I know that’s where the problem is. From left to right is a reload fired from the No1 Mk3 showing cracking at the head, factory from the No4 Mk1, factory from the No1 Mk3, then factory unfired. Several severed and got stuck in the chamber, but were thankfully easy to remove. Those that didn’t crack I tossed. The usual answer is to neck size only for fire formed brass, and I do have a neck sizer on the way, but with two rifles I’d like to share ammo supply. Has anyone tried just shoulder bumping the brass back with a full length resizing die? Has annealing helped alleviate the work hardened brass?

Does anyone know where I can get a stainless steel bullet mold so that I can cast copper bullet, or where to send my .step files to turn them into a molds.

So there I am, plinking away on my .22lr and 5.56 rifles I took to the range today. Guy pulls up, parks, sets up a few lanes down, starts shooting. Lo and behold, what do I see hitting the ground rolling towards me but some nice and shiny .308 brass!

So we both do our thing, range goes cold so we can go switch out targets, and here I am awkwardly walking up to the guy like a fat kid trying to make friends with the lady handing out samples at Sam’s Club. “Uhh heeeyyyy, noticed you’re shooting .308 there, were you planning on holding onto that brass or would you mind if I grabbed it?”

He was friendly about it and said sure I could have the brass, even helped me pick it up. So that’s all well and good, but here’s my question: it was raining today and some of the brass got a little wet. Do I need to dry it out right away, or can I just leave it and whenever I go to tumble it it’ll be fine?

I believe when I reloaded these 45 Auto cartridges the only large pistol primaries I could find were Federal Magnum ones. My 1911, made by Armscor, doesn't seem to be setting off these large pistol primers. It seems to be doing better with either Winchester or CCI small pistol primers. Does anybody know if Federal large Magnum primers are harder to set off? If that's the case then I will just use these rounds in one of my other guns. Thanks for your time.

Edit: Thanks for all the suggestions and input. I'll try doing the suggested maintenance on the gun. I'll also try to verify the theory that it is the Federal Magnum primers that are the issue. I have ammo made with small pistol primers and I think another brand of non-magnum large primers.

New rifle means new set up!

Nosler 21 in 6.5 PRC means I need a new load, and new loads mean reexamination of my setup. I typically run Hornady custom dies, brass prep ad nauseam. I’m hitting it with 143 ELD X, retumbo powder.

What dies do you use for extreme accuracy and why?

Basically the title question, have read stuff about small flash holes and short life with some brands and was wondering what makes of loaded ammo folks would buy if looking to use the fired brass for handloading. Looking to get some fairly cheap FMJ to feed an AR47, then load more FMJ and hunting ammo with the brass.

I'm completely new to reloading. I have a Frankford Arsenal M-Press with Lee dies. I'm just dipping my toes in the water and decapping/sizing some LC brass. Put this one in, pulled the lever, and viola. It went from circumcised to uncircumcised.

Let's see how this works on Bambi! Excited

"I would be incredibly grateful if someone could provide the measurements for a project I'm working on. Specifically, I need the diameter of the pins and the distance between them on the Forster Co-Ax press linkage. Your assistance would be greatly appreciated, as this information is crucial for the next steps of my project. Thank you very much for your time and help!"

I've seen some guys make some economical loads using somewhere between 5-12 grns of blue dot with various bullets from 40 grain vmax up to 69 grn match bullets. I was curious if it would be possible to do something similar with a 52 grain Barnes zinc core match burner. What kind of powder charge should I begin with if I'm looking to get somewhere between 22lr and 22wmr velocity with the little zinc core bullet?

Issue:

When shooting hot loads from my Ruger Sfar 308 16" i noticed ejector marks on the brass (scratches as BCG tries to pull brass back). My understanding was that it is too much pressure coming trough gas regulator which causes the BCG to cycle violently (too soon, still while there is high pressure and brass is still expanded)

pictures to explain: https://www.reddit.com/r/reloading/comments/1eheood/comment/lfyrxjq/?context=3

Solution:

i tried to slow down the system by installing heavier buffer weight compared to original one hoping heavier buffer would allow pressure to drop and case to get back to roiginal size and pull it back

Now i tried to shoot and i got exactly 90 degree ejection pattern but what is worse, 2 out of 10 shots caused new cartridge to get stuck (when cycling) in 45 degree angle towards barrel opening and both got squashed into case with damage to the tip.

Now i think the whole "slowing" of the bcg didnt work. What next? this was a workaround not to spend extra money on more adjustable gas block which i believe will eventually need to buy...

happy to hear opinions

Hey guys, I am getting into reloading but I had an issue with my 9MM with factory ammo and was curious on what could cause it.

I was at the range shooting my 92FS, going thru some steel case 9mm to be rid of it, and the casing went INTO my barrel. Range master called it a squib, but I had never seen that before.

Wish I had a picture, but want to understand why I casing could do that (I know you can’t reload steel) but want to know if this is something that can happen with Brass too and what I should do to avoid it when I reload

Does anyone have information on these presses eg parts breakdown or instructions?

I purchased one of these on a whim (just because it is Redding and I mostly have Redding everything). It comes with about 14 metal bushes, two round bars for the bushes, a whole lot of plastic bushes some of which are still in new “Pacific” branded packaging and more.

No one demonstrating one on youtube, no parts list on line and Redding have only have scans of ratty old instructions they can send you (two pages on how to use it and another two pages of old advertising.)

Do any of you have any details on these?