My dad is a reloader trying to think of a Xmas gift for hem. He has basically everything off the shelf for reloading. Looking for something new or out of the ordinary for hem. He cast lead, mostly uses single stage presses, and his lyman turret thank you for the help

So, I just got a Remington Rolling Block in .43 Spanish. I know I can reload it, but I have a good question.

As I found out, true .43 Spanish brass is $4.20 a case on Track of the Wolf. So, I'm wondering, is there any other caliber out there where I could possibly just run the brass through my sizing die and trim as well(kinda like making 7.7 Jap brass from 30.06 brass)? At this point, I'm wondering if.45-70 would work... Or maybe even .348 Win

Buying some powder coming soon and the options are overwhelming.

If you’re reading this thank you for taking time out of your day to answer

Bolt action 223 with REM Match chambering 26” barrel w/ MDT Mags which allow for 2.5” COAL (for context)

I won’t be loading “plinking” ammo only long ELD Match 75gr’s & 80gr & possibly 88’s & 80gr SMK’s. Vargets cost is crazy and looking at some “alternates” looking to see if people have experience for my application with these and others to recommend.

Cheaper options:

Staball Match - middle road price

Tac - cheapest

N140 - Priced better than varget and seemly similar to varget.

H4350 - priced up there with varget

Anyone have some “budget” / non crazy priced powder that works well with bolt guns in 223 that isn’t unobtainable?

Was depriming a large batch and got careless and didn’t realize there was a two piece Novx case. Next thing you know it gets stuck and I’m left with this. Is there anything that can be done or do I just need a new .300 blackout die?

Found a Lee Breech Lock on eBay for $48, is this a good deal and is it what I want for all-around reloading?

I’d like to reload without fire forming. I have a custom made Brooks mould that produces exact duplicates of the 41 swiss bullet except it has a slightly flat head instead of round nose. I have lee dies and 8mm Lebel brass. Please explain this to me from start to finish or point me towards a tutorial or video that has the info. Explain it like you would a complete beginner. I’ve just successfully reloaded for the Swiss 7.5 x 53.5 round and it went very well but 41 Swiss is next level.

My concern is how to form the brass and proper ways to trim. Thanks

Curious if this is a reasonable way to get into reloading. I plan on buying factory brass and not actually processing shot brass. Not intending to reload for volume just spicy, unique loads. Does it make sense to just buy a single stage press, a trickle powder charger and a hand primer? Would be loading 10mm, .357 223 and 6.5 . And if so any recommendations for which products to buy in this regard. Thanks.

Last week i shoot a loaner M95 at a smaller competition. I know and love the M95, but never got one myself because i never seem to find Ammo for it. I asked the range where they got their from and they said they reload. But since their 8X56R brass is nearing their limit, they started to reload 7.62x54R brass, as apparently if you prepare the casings, the work in the M95. I wanted to ask more indepth but had to make room for the next group and couldn’t find the RO i talked to afterwards.

Anybody here can tell me if that’s true? So far my reloading was limited to established cartridges and following the manual to the letter.

Hi !

I usually use N320 with my Lee Loadmaster with Lee Pro Auto Disk powder dispenser for 9mm. Works flawlessly.

Last week N320 wasn’t available, lot of people told me to try N330. I ordered 2kg but it works like shit with the flake shaped N330… It moves between 0,14g and 0,21 grams. Unacceptable !

Is there a solution ? What powder dispenser to use with N330 on a progressive press ? Or am I good to resell the powder ?

Thanks 🙏

Hello, im on the newer side to reloading with about 4k 9mm rounds under my belt and just picked up dies to start 223. I've watched videos and what not and they all say to lube the case while sizing and depriming and not to shoot lubed rounds. Right now I'm currently depriming and sizing my brass and was then going to wet tumble them (only tumbler I have). When I go back to start making rounds will I have to lube my cases again, should I just remove the sizing dye or is there another option/better way to mange the order I'm doing things? Working on a dillon 550b if that matters. Thank you

Recently purchased a SW 432uc and am looking for advice in handloading for it. I've only loaded Berry's 71gr with W231 for it so far. I have a few other powders, but my Hornady manual only has load data for their 85gr and 100gr XTP bullets. I'm looking to create a training load for general shooting and to familiarize myself with this for EDC.

Missouri Bullet Co has some coated 100gr RN and some coated 98gr WC that I've been eyeing. Does anyone have experience with either of those bullets in this caliber? Not sure if wadcutters are even worth it for plinking steel. I would ask the discord server, but there isn't a 32 cal group...

Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for wads that will fit in both tapered and straight hulls? ill be using overshot cards to keep powder from leaking.

Keep everything in my shop until winter hits due too not being insulated and gets too much moisture so boxed up and into my gun room, need smaller bench too use that ideally can easily be moved in and out of a standard door so can do loading in front of tv or in my man cave Cheap is kind of the priority but open too any options or things to repurpose for this that can be bought online or locally? Thanks everyone!

I haven’t reloaded in about 2-3 years now. I remember grabbing this at my local outdoor store and almost past because It was “high” at the time. Also in my box, 700 BR-2 primers, some R15 and about 600 A-max 168gr.

I was wondering if buying bulk/surplus .223, training with ar15, and then reshaping the brass to reloading for .300blk. Is it more effective to just get .300blk brass to begin with? I already have all the equipment needed to form .223 to .300blk.

Sad day. Cleaning out my closet, finally getting around to my last Nosler Partition Protected Point in .458. They're pulled, but the last I'll ever have.

I don't even own a break action rifle, but as I was inspecting some range pickup 5.56 I noticed an ejector swipe and it lead me to wondering about this.

Other than primer signs, what pressure signs can a reloader look for on a modern break action rifle like a CVA scout?