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/r/reloading
I need to get some powder to work up loads for my 350 legend AR using powder coated lee 200 grain bullets. I want to avoid gas checks for now and just push them hard enough to cycle the action. I've been researching different powders that might work, and want to get a few pounds of one or more these powders. (If they're in stock)
Are any of these safe/unsafe to load below start charge published data, & are they gassy enough to cycle the action? I want to avoid anything like h110/W296 as they need max charge to burn properly (i.e. too fast for cast lead). Rifle is BCA 18'' upper 1:16 twist with a carbine length gas system & a mil spec lower. Any advice for the build itself is also welcome.
308 175gr smk Once fired PMC brass 42.7-43.9 varget with 0.3 step, 10 rounds each Will be taking it to range and testing tomorrow
TL;DR: I am considering using blue loc-tite to secure a steel bushing into the top of the press so it acts like an non-quick-change press.
I recently bought my first press, a Lee C-Frame single stage that was only available in quick change bushing style. I have zero interest in quick change bushings but figured it wouldn't affect me since it comes with one quick change bushing that can stay in the press.
That'd be great if the bushing stayed in place instead of backing out when I remove a die from it.
After talking to Lee support about this and other bushing-related annoyances they recommend I replace the tall aluminum OEM knurled bushing with the low-rise steel bushing. I did and it's better for my use case in several regards. It backs out less often but still does so sometimes. Cussing ensures.
I am tempted to blue loc-tite the steel bushing in place so it cannot back out unintentionally. The loc-tite would go on the interrupted threads as seen in this pic.
Is this a terrible idea, assuming I truly don't want quick-change functionality? Am I inviting trouble that I don't understand because of my newbie status?
I know the answer is Unique, but I also know it's pretty much impossible to find.
What is the best powder that can load both .38 Special and 9mm?
I'm loading the same grains rounds as the Critical Defense ammo I load with for edc and home defense (110g for .38 Special; 115g for 9mm).
So I bought a press (Hornady lock n load classic) , got my dies (Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor full length set) Lubed cases with unique case lube and set my die according to the instructions that came with the die set, shell holder just touching the die with the ram at its highest position.
When I measure my shoulder to base dimension on the once fired brass I'm somehow increasing the length a few thousands or not changing it at all when sizing.
Did some quick searches last night and followed some advice to lube in the neck so I did that with some unique on a q tip. Didn't seem to help. I tried on a few different once fired brass brands I have here. It got to bedtime so I haven't tried anything else yet but I will be adjusting the die down a bit further to try and get some cam over and see if this helps. It seems like I might not get the result I want this way. Should I worry about this if I can indeed get the sized brass to chamber smoothly in my rifle?
Hi All, does a primer feeder similar to a bullet feeder exist. I am not talking about filling the primer pickup tube and then they are emptied into the primer tube, but sonething that feeds directly into say the dillon rl1100 primer tube.
Thanks.
First sorry for the long post.
Now im sure i will get several different answers.
Hot hot to get the brass when annealing?
I'm using an ugly annealer, propane torch, set with the inner blue flame just touching the neck.
Ive been told 750* tempilaq on the inside of the neck.
Ive been told just barely growing in a dark room.
Just before the flame starts to burn a different color.
Ive tried them all on junk brass and they all happen at different setting
Tempilaq was about 53 rpm
Growing was about 40
And the flame changing color was about 30.
So my question is which do i follow?
I was thinking tempilaq, but I know ugly annealer no longer recommend it. And ive heard it to be inconsistent on hornadys podcast.
Any help would be much appreciated.
I've been reloading for several months, and I think I'm ready to take the dive into 5.7x28.
The trouble is that I've been reading some old threads and opinions about which dies are good seem very confusing. Lee is readily available, but some people say it's bad, others good. Same with the RCBS dies.
I've seen a couple others out there for 2-4x the price of those, and I'm sure they are good dies, but I'm wondering if those premium dies are necessary to safely reload 5.7?
Any advice or experience is welcome, thanks in advance.
How do y’all figure out what kind of stuff ur going to load to be most efficient? Is it just trial and error and you spend money on multiple different primers, powder, bullets? Any help would be appreciated to jump start me into this.
I picked up hundreds of these at an estate sale, more than I'll ever load/shoot in my Marlin 336W 30-30. I'm thinking of trying them in my 300Blk (AR platform ) and perhaps even in my 30-06 (Savage AXIS II). Use would be range fodder mostly, just to burn them up. Thoughts? Load suggestions? I have TAC,Varget, and CFE 223 in stock but an not limiting myself to those.
I've read on a different form but can't find it now. Can I use Lee dies with a 1050 to reload 30-06? Dillon also has a conversion kit that includes dies for some reason as well.
When forming 30 herret brass from 30-30, How important is it to ream the inside of the neck?
So I waited too long to buy one for a sizing/trim toolhead that I wanted to set up, and now Dillon has gone and purchased a bunch of IP from FW arms and they are down for the time being.
Can anyone point me to someone who has one, or is willing to sell me one? I wanted to run more of them but I can live with only one, until they get back and running after the buyout.
RCBS primer loader tool.
The black and white parts- my large primer plastic part has bit the dust.
I need to order a new one.
Thank you!
Edit: pic finally attached below. Sorry!
Any idea how to fix this? Is there a different stem I need to buy? They don't fit perfectly in the round nose stem.
I'm using rcbs carbide dies, with the RN marked stem.
Subsonic load
147 gr berry bullet 3.3gr tite group oal 1.16
I've loaded thousands of these and they've all shot fine. I doubt the variance seat depth is going to increase pressures to unsafe levels with it being a sub load. But I would imagine that the seat depth is varying due to deforming the tip rather than pushing the bullet down.
I'm working on some suppressed pcc loads, and I'm trying to get max velocity while staying sub sonic out of an 8.8 inch barrel.
Good Morning all, I have been wet tumbling with a FA rotary tumbler. However considering dry tumbling. Can the rotary tumbler be used with dry media? Is it effective.
The description for the tumbler implies its for wet tumbling.
Thanks.
Picked up a used Blackhawk in 45 colt recently in a trade, came with a box of reloads. Didn't shoot any of those, finally got around to pulling one apart. Definitely h110/win296 and a 300gr bullet - max charge listed as 21.7gr in the hornady manual. This fucker was loaded with 27.5 grains of powder. Bubba's reloads definitely were pissin' hot and could've injured me or the gun, Jesus. Reinforced not shooting others' reloads
As I posted a few days back, I picked up a few pounds of X-term on the cheap. I made it to the range today with my first X-Term loads ( it's in a 6mm-223 wildcat ) and results were somewhat meiocre. In particular, SD and ES were a lot higher than I would like. The best SD load today was 18.3 with ES of 37. That's not horrible, but I would certainly like to get it better. Most of the others were SDs over 20 and ES of 60 or more.
They were moderate loads. Cases were probably 90% - 95% full. Temperature was cool, in the mid 40s, and I wasn't shooting a lot so the barrel should've been moderately warm at most. The loads used the Speer 75gr Varmint HP, which is about the midpoint for bullet weight for this cartridge, and CCI 400 primers.
As I've never used this particular powder before, I'm asking for any advice, tips, of feedback you've had with it. Is this kind of velocity consistency typical for it? Is it more temp sensitive than others? Do you find it works better for lighter or heavier for caliber bullets? Does it work better with a magnum or normal primer? Does it prefer a full case? Does it work better with light compression?
I just want to get a better sense of how this powder is best used before I load up more test rounds. This particular bullet/powder is meant for cheap plinking rounds ( it's about $0.25 / round, not counting primers ), so I don't need minuscule SD/ES. Maybe my N133 and H4895 has spoiled me, but I've also had good consistency with H335 and CFE 223. I would like to get this better if I can, without spending inordinate time and components testing out lots of different loads.
Thanks in advance.
I caught free hazmat deal and I have 2lbs of n140 and 2lbs of 335 coming with more 450 primers. So far I've shot hornady 55gr fmjbt and 75gr hpbts over cfe223, h335, and blc2. I want to order some 77gr SMK's and I was thinking about trying some different 55gr. bullets. Has anybody tried the RMR's, Raven Rocks Precision, Arm or Ally, or the Berry's bullets? Or should I just stick with more of the 55gr FMJBT Hornadys? I wanted to get opinions on how the others stack up against the Hornadys? Or even some of there heavier offerings? Thanks for any replies!! Happy Reloading!!!
Before seating. This one’s for the silhouette shooters! (Dozens of us)
Super fun wildcat, for those unfamiliar… Gonna test these 160gr hot cors out in my 14” contender. Ladder from 26.0gr h335 to 28.0. Br4 primer, Winchester formed 223 brass. Next will be 139gr SST.
Will be a fun comparison. Can’t get any lighter bullets right now but would love to see how fast a vmax will go at around 120gr and how accurate.
Also there isn’t any load data for any modern powders so I’m eyeing benchmark next.