My local range was holding a "precision hunter" competition all November. 5 shots at 100yd. Tightest group and closest to X ring would win. Very happy and proud that my .223 handloads got it done! Prize is 10 free range visits, valued at over a hundred dollars.

Hey all,

https://buygreengetgreen.com/

Can somebody please let me know if this rebate program would work for RCBS items that are on sale at retailers such as Midway, Bud's, etc?

I'm reading the fine print and it seems like things that are already on sale aren't discounted?

Please help! Thanks.

I have been putting together a reproduction M1 Carbine to take hunting for sika deer (small Japanese deer). I have been looking for solid copper rounds made for hunting but have only found one brand that has it. Does anyone know of a monolithic bullet I can use to reload with that is suiable for hunting or some place that sells these types of rounds? I'm also new to reloading so any tips or advice on finding quality parts or any red flags I should keep an eye out for would be greatly appreciated!

Im curious to if anyone has tried making 3d printed shotguns shell reloading equipment. In Norway lead shot has been banned and we have to use alternatives, but the alternatives are expensive and hard to get. So was wondering if anyone had any experience with the subject

I am sorry if this is a stupid question but can you use the Lee factory crimp die with the lee classic loader and use it to hammer a tapered crimp on the case? (all of this for 45-70)

I'm going to try a new bullet in my 38 Special loads in the 125-130gr realm, and like SNS Casting's bullets. In 125gr they have round nose flat point and standard flat points, and I'm curious what other people would choose and why? I currently load their 158gr LSWC for my Rossi R92 and while it cycles fine, it's too heavy to be accurate. The LSWC also seems to get hung up while loading into the gun, which could be fixed with the new bullets. I might get a sample pack of each and see which I like to load better, but I'd be interested you hear your opinions.

What's the biggest cause of corrosion, verdigris etc when storing ammunition long term - moisture or oxygen? In a mood to just load up all of my pistol components which is going to last a LONG time - I use Repackbox boxes and 50 cal ammo cans - just wondering what's the actual best environmental control to pop in there with them, desiccant or oxygen absorber? Have a 3D printer and a lot of activated alumina that would make a great desiccant box to add in each can, but that doesn't remove oxygen.

I’d like to make some dummy rounds that are clearly distinguishable from loaded rounds. Any ideas to dye or color my brass so they are unmistakable?

About to work on a load for my 6.5cm once the stock comes and scope rings come in.

I see a lot of people loading over max powder when using small rifle primers

I loaded 5 h4350 41.3gr 140gr eldm with srp starline brass I’m guessing to be at 2720-2750fps I need closer to 41.5-42gr of powder?

Gun is a 24” barrel howa 6.5cm 1:8

When I go to the range I try to pick up brass to add to my collection of shiny things. The local public range near me is great, apart from the brass goblin. This older gentleman, I shit you not, is there every time I go. He arrives in his beat up half-wrecked SUV. Different days, different hours, doesn’t matter. He will be there.

This mfker is always walking around with a broom and dustpan sweeping up your brass. I had to pry my 7.5 Swiss out of his bony hands before because he was catching it as I was shooting. And I’ve told him before I save my brass. I’m a brass fiend as much as the next guy but damn, I’m not gonna stand with a net next to a stranger and finess his cases. Really, im just jealous of his monopoly on the range brass. I wish I was retired and autistic enough to spend all day everyday sweeping at the range.

9 shot group at 100 yards

Hey just curious if anyone is using hornady’s 195 grain eld projectile for subsonic 300 blackout loadings? Would live to hear some of the data out there

I’m sitting here de capping range brass as we speak. I’ve got a weird situation all the other types of brass that I’ve processed. I’ve been able to Decap, but every time I come across a Norma casing it just won’t decap, and I don’t want to push it. It feels and looks like the pin is too big to go through the hole. Now normally that’s not something I’d be complaining about but this situation I am so let’s get our minds out of the gutter now and back on topic. Anybody else have this problem with Norma 9mm brass?

I'm looking to get into reloading and currently have 0 equipment. Has anyone seen deals going on that would be a good place to start? Primarily looking at either starting with 6.5cm or .308. Thanks!

I mostly load 38 Special/357 Magnum, but also do some 30-30 and may get into .45 ACP. Right now I have quite a bit of brass, but it's not organized well. I have 38 and 357 brass in various states of prepped all in various factory ammo boxes in various states of decay, cardboard boxes with brass, a Tupperware of 30-30 brass that may or may not be cleaned, etc. In the interest of organizing everything and making it easier to tell what brass is in what state of prepped, how are you guys storing brass? I don't have a ton of space, but I'm wondering if I should consolidate to a set of "dirty, clean, primed" Tupperware for each caliber?

So fired a variety of 9mm loads with different bullets and powders I came up with. The 90 grain extreme penetrators with about 4.5 grains of N330 were barely hitting 1100 fps with light primer strikes. How much should I be increasing the charge to push these to 1450 fps roughly. COAL is 1.105. The 80 grain TUI bullets loaded to 6.5 grains of Winchester auto comp were doing about 1480-1520 with casing looking good primers looking about average in terms of strikes and good ejection/cycling. And then I had some standard FMJ bullets loaded to around 3.5-3.7 grains of Winchester 231 seemed to be getting an average of 1200 fps which was surprising however this full size hand gun has a longer barrel than most.

Earlier in my reloading career I definitely used way too much case lube and am wondering if I should clean the dies even though to my knowledge I am not experiencing anything such as hydraulic denting. If I should what are some recommended methods?

I have a Lee 4 turret press. I want to start reloading my 6.5 creedmore for precision. Will it get me there or would something like a coaxial be far superior?

Anyone else test out F205 and F205AR match primers and see a difference in accuracy? These 2 groups were shot on different days with a 30 degree difference in ambient temp both days (group on the left was lower temp than on the right). I lost the other target with the F205AR group from the warmer day, but the group on the left matched what I saw. Velocity, shot the same day as the target on the right, was 2810 fps (11.0 std dev).

The primer compounds in 2 boxes were noticeably different. The F205AR compound was yellow, the F205 was red. I don't know enough about primer compound to say anything other than that was at least noteworthy.

Anyone have similar experiences, or have some insight as to why this may be?

The groups were all fired from my Sig 516 with my Omega 36M mounted. The barrel is 16" with a 1/7" twist. Optic is a Strike Eagle 1-6, all groups at 100 yds.

I love the idea of maximizing the AR15 platform, I know many of you do as well. So the idea is to use the 350 legend as a parent case and cut it down to match the case OAL of the 277 Wolverine at 1.530. This would eliminate the taper of the 277 Wolverine and increase case capacity. Keep it at 6.8mm / 277 and have fast accurate supers but with the capability to still use heavy 6.8 bullets and go subsonic. I haven’t done the math fully, “I lack the software”, but if my maths right (it’s not) it’ll increase the case capacity by ~14% from the 277 Wolverine. 350 legend magazines, standard .378 head for the AR15 bolts, maybe even a cheap chamber job for existing 277 Wolverine barrels.

This would be my first wildcat so I’d appreciate some feedback from some old heads who know what’s what.

No idea what I’d call it either so even a comment on the wildcat name would be helpful. Thanks fellas.

Been reloading for a number of years now having loaded thousands of modern cartridges like 9mm, .223, 6.5 creedmoor, etc. 30-30 seems different given the age of the cartridge. Any general tips, things to know, or favorite gear and components particular to the cartridge?

I don't know the exact year of manufacture of the gun but my initial googling says that production of the model 93 stopped in 1935. I appears to be in exceptional condition for the age.

My initial plan is to work up a light target load for plinking steel and then maybe a full power hunting load for deer. Any favorite bullets or brass? Rifle powder on hand is Varget, Staball match, N133, N135, N540, Tac, and H4350 but I could get some lever gun specific powder if needed.

I need help finding bullets to reload 8mm Lebel (8x50mmR) in the event that my father’s Berthier rifles are safe to shoot. Before we got the rifles, we have 4, they were not kept in a safe place so they rusted a lot and we need to have them checked. I have been trying to find bullets for reload the ammo but I haven’t found anything due to the weird bullet diameter. The diameter of the bullet is about 8.3-8.31mm.

I only completed 8 rounds so far. I want to test them before i take my time and money making more. They are 115 grain round nose berrys bullets with hc 38 powder (4.4-4.6 grain) most closer to 4.5 grain. The overall length is 1.1 (one came out at 1.09 and one at 1.11 when setting my dies) the only thing im worried about is the crimp. It feels like they didnt crimp in a way. But then again they cycled through my glock 19 just fine when i racked them through. Going to try and hit the range tomorrow and test them out. I. The picture the two on the left are my loads and the one on the right is a normal 115 grain blazer. You can see the expanded area on the left two.

I found my first Berdan today while decapping some 7.62x51. I guess the lesson is to take a quick look in unfamiliar brass.

Was looking for new reloading presses to get somthing a little better than the lee single stage I have. What presses do you all suggest? I have been looking primarily between the dillion precision rl550c and xl750. The xl750 has a good deal coming up Monday from their news letter. I currently load 223/556, 6.5 grendel, 260 remington, 450 bushmaster, 9mm, 357 mag, 30-06, 308, and will soon be doing 8.6 blackout and 7mm rem mag.