/r/CowboyAction
This community is mostly (but not exclusively) for posts about anything and all things related to the old west, history, and the sport of Cowboy Action Shooting
This community is mostly (but not exclusively) for posts about anything and all things related to guns and gun models from or around the mid-to-late 19th century.
Single action revolvers
Lever action rifles
Shotguns
Any gun used in a John Wayne movie
Also, feel free to post other things gun related as well (e.g., double action revolvers, pro gun rights news, awesome stories about people using guns to save the day, hunting stories, western movies with cool guns, pictures of cowboys with their weapons, etc.).
There is only one real rule: Be kind; if you wouldn't say it in real life then don't say it here.
Recommended subreddits:
/r/CowboyAction
I recently started loading black powder 45 colt using bullets from the Missouri bullet company. Their bp bullets are exactly the same as the smokeless bullets just with different lube. Barrel was difficult to clean after, I think I need more lube, anyone know where I can get bullets with larger or more grooves?
Hey y’all,
Looking to get into Cowboy Action. Looks like a ton of fun and a great community. I’ve done 3 gun, USPSA, NRL Hunter but I have never shot Cowboy Action before. I’ve owned a Dragoon, 1851 Navy and an 1873 Cattleman before so I’m familiar with single action but it’s been a while.
My main question is would it be a bad idea to start with Frontiersman? I love BP and 1851’s and 1860’s. Or would it be easier to go with an Open Top or RM Conversion / Cartridge Gun.
I’ll stop by my next local match and talk to them and see what they recommend. I just wanted some recommendations from the community as well.
Thanks!
What overall length for a 45 colt cartridge would work best in a uberti 1873 rifle?
Last night, I was shooting a stage really well and then ... disaster! I didn't quite thumb the hammer all the way back enough to cock it, so I cocked/triggered my way around the cylinder and then AGAIN flubbed the hammer cocking on that round, so I had to go all the way around the cylinder again.
Should I have just kept the trigger pulled and thumb-fanned the hammer to get around to the missed round instead?
I got a Pietta hammered coach gun and have not fired it yet. I’ve been messing with it and with the safety off when I pull the trigger the hammers just drop to rest and not on the firing pin. Does it only drop to the firing pin when a shell is loaded?
I’ve been looking at getting one of the cimarron 1878 coach gun’s that’s made by TTN and was wondering if they’re any good, because i hear that they’re durable and then some people say they deal with parts breaking what is your experience with it. Any input is greatly appreciated 🤙🏻
I purchased a brand new rossi r92 357/38spl a little over a year ago. Within 6 months I had to send it back because the lever wouldn't close. They fixed it, tested it, and sent it back. I took it easy on her and didn't use it much then 6 months later thought Id bring her to the range and about 30 rounds in the ejector broke. At this point I was pissed that a brand new gun would break this much within a year. I called Rossi to see if maybe the gun I got was defective or something hoping they'd replace it or give me my money back because what's the point of a having a gun I don't trust? When I finally got in touch with someone they told me there was nothing that could be done other than just sending it in and paying to have it fixed. I argued that it's a gun and that It should be reliable and I can't trust a gun that breaks this much. They said they would refer me to the supervisor and to expect a call within 2 days. A week goes by before I called back to complain about the wait and lack of communication and all they said was they would refer me again to the supervisor and to wait again. Another week goes by and they finally called me back. Once again told me there was nothing they would do and that I would have to pay to send it back, pay for the parts and the fee to fix it. I told them I don't want them to just keep fixing it with shitty parts just to have it break again and I end up spending more to have it fixed than what I spent on it in the first place and that I shouldnt have to keep paying for them sending me a defective gun in the first place. They didn't seem to care and weren't helpful at all so now I have to pay to send it back and have it fixed just so I can have a functioning unreliable gun that I will never use again and can't sell for more than $100. Don't buy from rossi. They don't care about quality or reliability or their customers. They just want to sell you a cheap poor quality gun that you would end up paying more money fixing over time. I will never buy rossi again and will be telling as many people as I can to avoid this company
I have a pair of Navy Arms #3 Schofield replicas. (My understanding is that they are Uberti's, ultimately, from the 1990's.)
The hammers have down, half-cocked, and fully-cocked positions. (Half-cocked is more like very-slightly, 1/10th-cocked.)
The cylinder doesn't spin in the down or fully-cocked position, but does spin freely in the half-cocked position.
The sticky part is, that once I put 5 rounds in the cylinder, and close the gun, it defaults to being half-cocked. The cylinder spins freely enough that it's not impossible to fathom that it might get out of position in the time between where I close the gun and drop the hammer.
The only way to get the hammer all the way down, is to position the empty chamber under the hammer, and drop the hammer with enough force that if there was a cartridge in there, it would be fired. If I try to hold back the hammer, pull the trigger, and gingerly drop the hammer it into place, it usually goes back to the half-cocked position rather than the full hammer-down position. Is this normal? Because one of my pistols takes a bit more force than the other, but both need to be dropped pretty hard to go into the hammer-down position rather than stay half-cocked.
I was using these for the first time this weekend and found it pretty nervewracking to drop the hammer at basically full-force onto a cylinder with 5 cartridges in it, that had been free-spinning just a moment before. I couldn't check it enough times to make sure it was in the right position first. I feel like if I did it 1000 times, I'd be pleasantly surprised to never get an oopsie daisy.
Grey laminate stocks on lever guns are all the rage, and I'm considering getting one, but would something like that be allowable under CAS "western movie" rules?
I'm thinking a Rossi R92 or Marlin SBL 357 or 44 with the rail removed should qualify, but not sure if the laminate is a touch too much.
Hello all so I'm hoping to buy my first revolver for this sport and I can't quite decide what firearm to buy and I'm debating on either a 1875 remington 7.5" or a model 3 schofield both nickel plated
I know neither is practical but honestly I find unique guns fun over being good and I just want advice thanks in advance
I figured this is the best place to ask. The original idea was to make a sling and now I'm going to have two of them and a fairly long excess piece. The remainder is only 4ish feet long which isn't enough for a full sling, not that I'd want a third when all I have is a single lever action.
Does anyone have any recommendations for accessories I can make with the spare webbing? It can be on the rifle, on a cowboy outfit, anything practical so I'm not wasting this cool material.
Link to the webbing for anyone interested: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBKZ7Q9D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
In media almost every time a shotgun is shown it's a double barrel, were single shots common at all?
I just need to know if I need to drop it to my hips or if it's fine to just wear it at normal belt level because it's difficult to drop it down because for some reason god decided that I don't need a ass so it sometimes falls down farther and when I pull out my gun or knife it always raises and makes it take longer and if it's helpful information I always wear it out around town work and other wise it's not a cowboy action rig but I figured that you lot would know the answer
I’m currently leaning toward the 20 inch, but I’d like to hear others opinions on the matter
Which should I get? Looking at blued models in 45 LC with 7 1/2” barrels. For plinking and historical appreciation. I’m leaning towards the Cavalry model as repair may be more manageable and hardened replacement screws seem more available.