/r/longrange
The subreddit for long range precision shooting enthusiasts.
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Current Projects: Suggestions?
The subreddit for long range precision shooting enthusiasts.
Rules
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If you want to sell things, use /r/PrsAccessoriesForSale. You also cannot buy/sell/trade guns or reloading components on reddit as this violates the TOS.
Groups reflecting accuracy claims must be statistically significant. If you are going to make a post describing the accuracy of a rifle, it cannot be construed as a cherry-picked, small sample size (3-shot), or other deceptive representation. Groups of 3x5, 5x5, 2x10, or more are preferred. Making wild claims without support may earn you a clown flair. 🤡🤡🤡
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/r/longrange
Would a 1:10 twist stabilize this solid copper 85 grain ? I have a Winchester model 70 and looking for heavy copper loads
Ended up going with the krg c-4 chasis for my tikka. Absolutely digging this compared to the tac a1 chasis i was using way more adjustments great weight and balance. Biggest plus was getting away from proprietary tikka mags haha
Sig Cross 24” stainless steel barrel chambered in 6.5 Creedmore
Arken SH-4 Gen II on a 20 MOA mount
Dead air nomad still in paperwork jail
Now just doing some research to decide between a bipod or a tripod. Planning on shooting factory loads to start with, so if anyone here also has a 24” sig cross I would love to hear about which factory loads you have used and what were your results?
Hello!
I posted on here recently about scopes and got so many educational responses, I'm not able to edit the post so I just want to thank anyone who may've seen it and contributed; thank you for educating me!
That raises the broader question, what skills contribute overall to better marksmenship? Apologies if this is in the FAQ, (I think I read it but it's a lot of information).
I'm curious and I'm hoping to connect more with something a late family member of mine enjoyed.
Thank you for your time and have a nice day.
I'm scouting a few possible shooting lanes on state land but I want to be polite to the buildings near by, I'd be around 700m away from the nearest buildings with woodland in between, I'm planning on running 6.5cm and possibly some intermediate rounds like 223. Anyone have opinions on how close is too close? Don't want to ruffle any feathers
The Sheels by where I'm working has one for $320 right now. I've been shooting with the mbt-2s and it's very nice but I would definitely like a reduced trigger pull weight. I know everyone loves the triggertech diamond but I'm very used to and like a 2 stage trigger. Any reviews would be greatly appreciated.
Can’t afford a scope just yet for a rifle I just got a few days ago. I’m looking for some cheap 30mm rings that are good enough for a bit of range shooting for handload development. Holds zero, low height, don’t care what features or weight they are. Don’t want to spend a ton since the scope I’m getting for it won’t be 30mm, thinking $65 or less. Talley’s used to fit that bill for me but they’re like $90 plus shipping now. Just need something cheap enough to be basically disposable but not so cheap I can’t still get good groups for load development
175 SMK .308 Win @ 2650fps.
Does anyone know if a Remage barrel nut will fit into a KRG Bravo chassis?
I’m considering rebarelling a Bergara B14 action that i have, which would involve the Remage nut onto a Preferred prefit barrel. I have a Bravo chassis with enclosed forend, but I’m struggling to visualize whether it would all fit inside.
Anyone with direct experience here?
Before asking this I did spend time on Reddit, Google, and ChatGPT, but still can't find a clear answer. I'm dumb. Thats fine.
I am trying to find the difference between a locking and non-locking arcalock rail.
Specifically, I bought a Mountain Tactical Tikka Arca-Lite rail and a Area419 ArcaLock clamp for my Atlas bi-pod. I am trying to figure out if I need to remove some screws on the clamp, because the clamp says "For non-locking arca rails remove pins"
Thanks!
I plan on picking up a 6.5 bolt gun soon, but I am looking to finish off a large frame AR first (holding out hope for another Solus sale) and pretty much all that is left is grabbing a barrel.
From what I can tell Stag is the same manufacturer as BA / Aero. I found a good price on an 18" HBAR in .308 and wondering what type of accuracy I could expect from this. I know it isn't Criterion / Proof / Krieger, etc, but wondering how this may perform.
Use case - Mostly targets at 100-500.
Who has the best QC coming from the factory and also has great customer service should something fall through the cracks?
From reading I am thinking Seekins but wanted to throw the question out there.
Ex: Ruger has great customer service but I’ve seen some questionable products make it to shops
Aero seems to put out a great bolt gun and ARs but customer service is crickets
I’m building a 37xc I think the barrel is either 30 or 32” and a fairly heavy contour with a terminator max brake. Defiance Ruckus action. I had planned to put it in one of the lighter folding magnesium chassis like the HNT26 or element 4.0mg. Thinking about it a little more I wonder if that will just be too light in general (recoil)or out of balance (front heavy)? I have no experience with chassis guns or long heavy barrels on heavy recoil calibers. I guess my question is should I seek a different chassis than the light ones I’ve been looking at? Are there better quality folding chassis that might be better? For context, the gun is for long range target fun and hunting. Thanks for any help!
Hello, everyone! I had made a post yesterday about narrowing down a few rifle options to get for casual plinking. I ultimately decided to get the Tikka Ace Target in 6.5 creedmoor (good job to everyone who convinced me of that over .308 lol). But now I’d like to get some advice on optics. I imagine the Vortex in the image above would be great for 1000+ yard shooting but I’ve only ever owned a Sig Sauer scope and I’d like to try something else this time. That being said, I am very unfamiliar with many other optic brands. I’d like to keep whatever I get under the $600 mark but if I could get some help in finding potential options, I would appreciate it. Thank you!
Hello guys, I am thinking about my next long distance setup. I am hesitating between the 7 PRC and the 300 PRC. Ballistically the 7 PRC is ahead of the 300 PRC in every way. Even in terms of energy, once past 1500 yards the 7 PRC comes out ahead thanks to its crazy BC and its speed.
The only downside is that several people report the fact that they do not reach the speed announced by Hornady. And very few rifles are available beyond 22" in Europe.
I would like to have your opinion, if several people have been able to shoot with these calibers. Because in Europe it is just arriving, so it is complicated to be able to try.
Thank you.
One of my favorite things to do with a new gun is to buy a bunch of different factory loads, and see what my guns likes and doesn’t like. Here I have 7 different loads, 4 from AAC/Sabre, one from Hornady, and two Federal GMM.
All are 10 shot groups at 100 yards.
(***Except from the Sabre Black tip, which had 2 failure to fires. I reloaded both rounds into the mag for a second attempt, and one went off the second time, with the other failing to fire again.)
I have the cheapest rounds to the left, most expensive to the right. I measured the full group, then also took measurements of the best 9 and best 8 shots because I think that those numbers also have some value in understanding how well an ammo performs. I then take this formula to create an “adjusted average” for each factory load: (10 shot group x 0.6) + (9 shot group x 0.3) + (8 shot group x 0.1)
(For example, when comparing the AAC BTHP vs the AAC SMK, the SMK 10-shot group is worse by the numbers. But looking at the 9 and 8 shot numbers, I’d need to shoot at least one more 10-shot group before I make a call on which my gun likes better.)
Most important takeaway: (pending more testing) the Hornady American Gunner is the clear winner for both overall performance and especially value to performance ratio.
Other indications: -If you’re gonna buy AAC, go for either the BTHP or the SMKs, and avoid the FMJ and Black Tip. -I’m glad I bought two different Federal GMM loads because it’s clear my gun prefers 130gr Bergers to 140gr SMKs.
I have 10 more rounds of each factory load. On the next mild-winds day, I’m going to take them to a different range and do the same thing at 200 yards. I’m hoping that this will help confirm the trends I’m seeing at 100 yards, and/or reveal any issues before I spend lots of money stocking up on one of my options!
This is my first long range-oriented rifle build so I’m pretty excited with the results. At least with the loads it likes, this is the most accurate rifle I’ve ever owned.
Just like the title, I am looking at two different NF ATACR’s for a 20” ar10 platform. Either would be in Mil-XT. Gun will be used from 500-1200yds.
My big hold up is the size and weight of the 5-25 having a 56mm objective vs the 50. Does anyone run either of these on AR10’s and what are your pros and cons for one vs the other. Have you used a 1.5-1.54” mount with 20moa on a 56mm objective without it touching the rail? Thank you
I'm upgrading to a set of LRF Binos this year instead of carrying a set of binos and mono LRF. I already have a Kestrel 5700 Elite that I carry with me anytime I expect to shoot more than 200 yds. The main question I have is this: are the Sig 10k's with the onboard AB Elite & sensors worth the extra $1500 or are the 6k's connected with the Kestrel perfectly fine/functionally similar? They would be used for spotting & ranging at PRS matches, general LR shooting, and hunting (archery & rifle). I've been unable to find a video showing the 6k Gen 2's connected to a kestrel and being used, hence the question.
The money is going to get spent either way, but if the 6k's connected to a kestrel perform similarly to the 10k's with just a shorter ranging distance, then I can spend that money on other upgrades (garmin/athlon chrono, double pull ckye-pod, better tripod ballhead, maybe even a class, etc.)
I was originally planning on Vector X's until I saw how hard it is to pick up the reticle in low light, and they only have a 3 year warranty vs. Sig's lifetime. I just sent back an 8yr old scope where the illumination stopped working, so that 3 yr limit worries me more than it likely should.
New to long range shooting
It seems a lot of the main manufacturers are starting to sell stand alone builder actions and barreled actions. Weatherby 307, seekins, Bergara to name a few and they all seem to be around the $900 range which is roughly where I would like to stay. I am wanting to build up a relatively lightweight hunting rifle in 7prc. I am wondering what peoples opinions are based on a few of the options now available?
Hello everyone, I'm fairly experienced with gas guns but only own one bolt gun at the moment. I am looking to make a 300PRC over the course of this year. I would be using this gun for long-range shooting and mostly stationary hunting. My parts list so far is the following:
Chassis: MDT ESS or ACC elite GEN2
Receiver: ???
Barrel: ???
Muzzle device: Surefire Warcomp (to accommodate my surefire 300SPS suppressor)
Optic: Razor 6-36
Basically, I am unsure on what brand of receiver and barrel/barrel length to go with. Any input is appreciated!
Are defiance actions really worth the price of a whole rifle?? I'm looking at a LH deviant LA Mag BDM cut and its just as much as a tikka super varmit or a roughtech, possibly more. I realize there's a huge jump in quality but is it reeaallyyy worth it? I will say the reason I'm not just going with logic and buying the tikka is that tikka doesn't offer the few calibers I'm considering. I prefer the r700 action but tikka has enough aftermarket support to consider as well. I want to like the defiance option more but I need someone to share their first hand experience
My only rifle is an old 1903 3006 sporty with that classic mauser action. Hunts fine and get to 500 yards just fine but my days of running that action like Private Jackson are coming to an end. I want a rifle for me. I expect it'll eat a few grand before I can consider shopping for glass. I want to touch father distances. I have a few calibers in mind that look enticing but ultimately whatever I pick I will end up reloading for it. Not saying I wouldn't take it hunting but it's main drive would be steel. I have seen people ask for a lot of details before offering advice so I hope I checked all the boxes.
Considering calibers 7mm PRC 300 PRC 28 Nosler