Brand new, never fired Build list:

Impact precision 737R action

Bartlein barrel 26 inch M24 7.7 twist rate by Stuteville Precision

Masterpiece arms Matrix Pro chassis

Trigger tech special 700 trigger

Insite arms heathen muzzle brake

Vortex viper pst gen 2 5-25x50 FFP EBR-7C mill reticle with vortex precision rings

Area 419 ARCA Harris bipod

Accuracy international magazine

Gunsmith was Stuteville Precision

And free Berger’s 6.5 mm Creedmoor 153.5 Grain Long Range Hybrid Target

All for 3500 beans

Hello,

I am looking at purchasing my fist silencer for my heavy barrel 26" 6.5 CM that exclusively gets used for range and hopefully competitions (weight not a concern). I know a TBAC is the number 1 choice for most people on this forum, however I was looking at some alternatives just in case finances don't align to a $1600 can.

I have looked into Silencer Co, YHM, CAT, Surefire, Rugged, Griffin....the list goes on. I am lost at this point, and would love to be pointed in the right direction for a TBAC alternative for a precision rifle.

I am leaning Silencer Co Scythe Ti or Silencer Co Omega 300 DT for an alternative but really don't know.

Also if anyone could recommend going direct thread vs muzzle device that would be wildly helpful.

6.5 CM paired with a Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40

First time shooter and already feels amazing. Can't wait to take this thing out to 500+ yards!

what scope magnification do you recommend having at a minimum for elr shooting ?

Which Ballistic Apps are best?

Good morning all. I have a Coup de Gras short action with a 0.473” bolt face coming in a couple of weeks. I was told I can use a shoulder pre-fit barrel. I think I’m going to have it chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor, but I am open to suggestions on calibers I would like it to shoot up to 1 mile for target only. It will not be used for hunting.

Since this would be my first time using a shoulder pre-fit, can anyone give me a recommendation on a high-quality barrel? My budget is around $1000.

Inherited my dads 110 Switchback in 6.5 CM and was curious if anybody knows of an offering to convert a bottom bolt release 110 to take aics mags? I've recently picked up a Bell and Carlson M40 stock for it. I'm in need of a bottom metal and have been researching on my own for a couple days now without a solid answer. Any help is appreciated.

I am looking for recommendations for a pre-fit barrel for the defiance classic action, I have been having a hard time finding many choices and would like to hear y’all’s opinions on what I should get.

Hello everyone, new to long range and got an Aero Solus in 6.5cm. I need help choosing optic rings (concerned about optic hitting barrel). The optic I have is a Vortex Razor GEN III 6-36x56 34mm. Was looking into vortex pro rings either in low or mid. Would I have any issues with fitment? Has anyone gone this route?

Hey all,

I have a Tikka T3X Super Varmint, its consistently accurate and sub MOA with good ammo. Aside from a plastic trigger guard and bold shroud, which can easily be replaced with metal should I ever feel the need - the barrel and action seem very high in quality to me, being stainless and cerekoted. A Howa 1500 is even cheaper and is of similar quality, with a better 3 stage safety than the tikka. I'd highly considered going this route but ultimately decided on the tikka for the smoother action and the aesthetics of the cerekote.

Anyway onto my question, something like a Sako TRG costs 12k+ (AUD).

If there anything that these super high end rifles can do that a standard tikka/howa barrelled action dropped into a decent and relatively inexpensive stock can't do? Or are you only paying for quality after a certain point?

As far as I can tell, the quality of the tikka is high enough to last a lifetime.

I understand spending a lot on a good optic for the glass quality and intenral adjustment needed for extreme ranges, however I don't understand what a 12k rifle has that a decent barrelled actions in a decent aftermarket stock doesn't.

Am I missing something?

Thanks

The bergara barreled action is on its way hopefully tomorrow. Due to your guys input I went with the mdt premier gen 2, ordered it yesterday off of OpticsPlanet with there sale and it came today. And my scope should be here Friday. Can’t wait to shoot this thing!

Budget short-midrange shooting rifle, don't roast me, im new here

I have listened to some of you guys drone on about seating depth and mostly ignored it. For what gas gun (regarded) loading I've done, I've used COAL and snugged a bit under and called it good. The vast majority of what I have reloaded have been 6 ARC and specifically Hornady's 103gr ELD-Xs. I bought a box of 90gr ELD-Xs recently and loaded ten of them to try. It fukt my whole range trip.

I took three sets of new to me loads (one was a new powder, and two with a familiar powder and different projectiles). New powder was promising for SD and velocity but the group wasn't great. Second new load was a bit slower than expected but had one of the best groups the rifle has ever shot (Berger 95gr VLDHs). I was pretty stoked after that group, so when the last group completely shit the bed, it was extremely disappointing.

Long story short, if a projectile is more than .15 inches shorter than whatever you were using that happened to work beforehand, and you load to the same OAL (ie, you ignore seating depth as a concept) you may find that you are jamming that shorter bullet's bearing surface right into your grooves (even if you aren't smart enough to realize why the rifle isn't functioning properly). You may find that your bolt doesn't want to close. You may find that your bolt doesn't want to open if you do get it closed. And finally you may find that when you use a piece of 2x4 you find at the range to force open your bolt, you leave said bullet stuck in the barrel and empty a charge of Varget all over the insides of your rifle, completely ending your range trip.

TL;DR I will likely be paying attention from now on when people start talking about seating depth.

I only recently learned this but after fact checking with the forest service you are allowed to target shoot in most national forests even if state law prohibits it. Federal law takes precedence over any contradicting state law on federal land.

The usual common sense rules apply:

• clean up after yourself, do not litter, remove targets and shell casings
• provide and/or ensure a safe backstop
• do not shoot within 50 yards of any roads
• do not shoot within 150 yards of any residence, building, campsite, developed recreation site or occupied area
• do not shoot across a body of water except when engaged in legal hunting
• do not shoot from a motor vehicle
• do not shoot into or within a cave
• do not transport a loaded firearm
• do not carry a firearm into any federal building or facility

I don’t think a lot of folks without access to BLM lands out East realize they have this option available. I certainly wasn’t aware.

For example here’s the guide to firearms use for the Chattahoochee and Oconee national forests: https://www.fs.usda.gov/detailfull/conf/recreation/?cid=stelprdb5127611

I finally got around to stretching my B14r out to 400 yards this past weekend. At the time I was more excited by the fact that I could actually land consistent hits out that far rather than my overall accuracy..

It got me wondering, does anyone actively try to shoot groups with a .22lr at that distance or beyond? If so, what size groups have you gotten?

Thought some of you may find this interesting. He runs TG approved 30 shot groups to test precision . In this test he ran 3 x 30 shot groups to look for shifts in either POI or group size after heating up the barrel.

I screenshotted the basic result from the video, but there are more detailed results discussed.

He’s a multigun competitor, so his acceptable precision may differ from most “long range “ shooters.

https://youtu.be/6m6LIiwtAak?si=aNk5_FRg968EpWE6

So I ordered the Reptilia AUS mount to place on an AR10 along with the bubble level for the mount. Of course I did this before doing any reading or video watching about scope leveling. It seems like I want to level the optic (reticle really) with the gun (top rail). So what if when I tighten down the mount it winds up not level to the top rail? Wouldn't that mean the level attached to the mount would be irrelevant? Or does the AUS typically mount level to the rail? When I watched a video from Paramount tactical, he demonstrated that the mount, once tightened, was no longer level to the top rail.

I was listening to an old Miles to Matches episode (excellent PRS podcast if you don’t listen to it btw) and Chad Heckler was talking about how he really only shoots beyond a 100 yards at matches. The majority of his training is just dry fire and short range work focused on the fundamentals of marksmanship. Building good positions and trigger presses that have minimal influence on the reticle.

Considering that Chad is one of the top PRS shooters in the country I thought that was an interesting data point for all the folks who are bummed about not living somewhere that has the space to go long.

You can still become a very good precision rifle marksman by focusing on the fundamentals.

Things that come to mind for me are:

• honing data management workflows
• dry fire trigger presses that don’t disturb the reticle (from all positions)
• natural point of aim (also see above)
• building structurally sound and stable positions
• 100 yard dot drills focused on recoil management and spotting impacts
• practicing wind reading whenever you get a chance (I carry an old model Kestrel for that)

Adding range to your impacts really is more about trueing and trusting your data and making good windcalls. With AB custom curves as long as you have good velocity data (thank you Garmin) trueing is usually more just confirming. Everything else you can work at your shorter ranges.

What are things that you would add to that list of things you can work without having a 1000 yards to shoot on?

First dedicated long range bolt action build. I have a 6arc gasser and 308 gasser but this will have a tad more potential I think. Intend to start my prs journey with this build. Think I need to get some bags too and counter weights for the stock but seems like a good start to me.

Deets: Aero solus action

Greybirch la chassis

Straight jacket armory aero prefit barrel

   -6.5 creedmoor 24" mtu contour 1:8 twist

Trigger tech diamond trigger

Reptillia 34mm mount

Arken ep5 5-25

Acu-tac bipod

Reptilia cqg grip

Wolfpack armory compensator

Rex silentium mg7

Diligent defense zilch adapter

I’m looking at Brownells options for a decent 6.5 Creedmoor barreled action for my first custom build. I’m planning on spending between $2500-$3000 and using all MDT furniture. Specifically the LSS Gen2 Chassis. I can’t decide between a Howa 1500 and a Christensen Arms barrel. I saw a post on here stating that this stock didn’t fit the Howa despite being designed to on this specific chassis and have no info anywhere whatsoever on the Christensen arms barrel. Ideally I’d like a decent mid grade rifle I’ll be adding a suppressor to for practicing getting further into long range shooting on my own. Money isn’t a huge issue but, I’m also not trying to go out of my way to break the bank. Anyone have any experience or knowledge here with either of these rifles?

I am about to buy the parts for my first custom long range build and wanted to get another set of eyes on my parts list so I don’t make a stupid mistake. This build is just for bench shooting and it won’t be important to have accuracy reaching crazy long distances as I don’t have any areas close to me, any and all thoughts, comments, and concerns are welcome!

Faxon firearms fx7 barreled action with 22’ m24 contour chambered in .308

Delta defense pro5 r700 chassis

Timney elite hunter trigger

Atlas bipod

Area419 hellfire match brake

I love the M24 SWS rifles and would love to build an accurate one but I’m done cloning for a while. Shits stupid expensive. So I built a half assed m24 inspired rifle.

This is a parts bin gun I built, had a carbon Christensen stock (I know) left over from a customer that didn’t want it, a 1969 R700 ADL in 7mm Rem Mag I bought from a pawn shop for 399$, a Leupold pic rail, some steel Warne Maximas, and a cool old BNIB 100yr anniversary illuminated Leupold VX-III 3.5-10x50mm. Walker trigger tuned to 3lbs, recut the crown, and cerakoted it, and she’s a decent looking tack driver.

JAE G5 got here today. Seems pretty cool. Integrated arca and barricade stop are nice. Lots of mlok. Grip is super comfortable. Seems like a cool fusion of stock and chassis. Weighs 8.1ish# with internal weight kit and bag rider. Never had a G4, but with the better price I gave this one a shot. Now I've got to decide what to put in it.... probably my RimX at first as that's the next competition.