Greetings. I did read the very insightful review that U/Trollygag of these two scopes. It was very insightful. Overall it seems like his pick was the Ares. I’m inclined to take his suggestion and wind up purchasing this. However it would be great to hear some more feedback. The prices are pretty similar. I know Vortex has an incredible warranty on there products. What do you think?

What scope caps are you guys running?

Anyone like the MK Machining caps? Vortex razor 5-20 Vortex venom 5-25

Pic for attention This is not my long range setup

Hey everyone!

I know everyone here really enjoys the basic challenge of hitting things very far away, but what sort of other fun games/challenges ('drills' if you're tacticool) do you like to run?

I'd be particularly interested in challenges/games where you can compete with one or two other range buddies and that doesn't require a lot of dedicated equipment (e.g. special barricades, elaborate reactive steel target or the like).

I've had good fun doing simple timed and/or untimed dot drills at a couple of different ranges.

How about you?

Because no one likes a post without photos: My 6.5CM Deadline² in its McMillan A6.

There's always one flyer... I've finally found a good round for my CZ 457 22LR. The SK Match rounds seem to do much better than CCI, Eley, and Federal. MDT Chassis Timney trigger Area 419 30MOA base 12x SWFA and Seekins rings

I’ve heard a bit of both sides with no definitive answer as to whether suppressors on thinner barrels are a yay or nay. I understand you’re basically hanging a weight at the end of the barrel and the more rigid the barrel the better, and of course this would have an effect on barrel harmonics but is it as huge as it’s made out to be? Say you have a 0.750” muzzle and a 1.2” muzzle, are you losing anything significant in terms of performance suppressing the 0.750” given you’ve got a quality suppressor and quality smithing work done to mount it? Been debating for a minute whether to suppress my current barrel or just wait until I get a heavier one spun up and throw a suppressor on it at that point.

Finally moving off of my .308 platforms and am dipping my toes into long range shooting. I have a range available that gives me options to shooting from 600yds to 1 mile, my hope/plan for this rifle is to get my skills up at the 1000-1300yd ranges.

Budget is 6k(ish) for the rifle, optic, and can - but there’s some upward flex available if I need to spend more.

The three primary optics choices I am considering would be the

Vortex Razor HD Gen III 6-36x56

Leupold Mark 5HD 5-25x56

Nightforce ATACR - 7-35x56mm

I have seen a fair bit of discussion about the Athlon Ares ETR UHD 4.5-30x56mm, so that could be a dark horse contender.

So, is one of the three primary choices a solid bet? I’d there something from a different manufacturer that I should put into consideration? Buy a cheap optic at a Benjamin and spend the savings on hookers and blackjack?

I’ll be attending the April 2025 course. I have or can get all the equipment they specify. Any recommendations on lodging and dining near the training site?

Has anyone tried installing a Badger embedded front rail on an B14 HMR stock? Badger’s installation instructions say they cannot install on an injection molded stock and I’m not sure if the HMR fits the bill. Thanks.

Had a hard time reading wind in the canyon, but got on steel after 16 rounds. Tough to spot misses at that distance, even with a spotter. A whole new respect for the ELR wizards out there.

Winter range day.

Ruger Precision Rifle (.308, 20”) + Vortex Viper 6-24x50 + Silencer Central Banish 30 + hand loaded ammo = good time

Impact 737r, Bartlein 6creed, Kahles that finally got finished around August. Was focusing on long range gas gun and USPSA at the time but finally got the chance to take it out last weekend after only being able to zero and chrono before. Was too busy having fun to take any better pictures out there.

Hey, not sure if this is the correct sub tbh, but let's go.

Tldr; young daughters, new shooters.

So I have daughters, love them, but the eldest is starting to ask for a gun for Xmas. If I was to take my ar, which I know people use for prs, what would y'all recommend.

The ar is great for adjustability and small caliber for starters imo. I would assume a bull barrel, but I would like something to accept suppressor from factory,and I would assume mlok weights?

To go into the generic girl dad, money is no object, just don't tell the wife.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: thanks

Thanks guys, i like my Tikkas so I'll look into the t1, I'll also give the cz a looksy. I have an umarex gauntlet 2 in .22 cal, so that might also be an option. Very heavy bolt for cocking though. Those long range air rifle guys are nuts in what they can do with something I use for rabbits and chipmunks.

I'm between the ARC M-Brace and the Hawkins One Piece.

I've seen positives to both sets but I see more people recommending the Hawkins mount.

Those of you who have experience with both and went with one over the other, why did you pick the one you did? I like the concept of the single bolt rings clamp of the arc but having a diving board included in the Hawkins is intriguing

TIA

Is adding some “grippy” a recommended/required addition for effective use of your bag on barricades or other situations? Can basic skateboard tape off Amazon do the trick?

I want to reduce the trigger pull weight on the HACT howas trigger for long action (7PRC)

Is there another alternative to gunbloke? The $20 spring has $22.50 shipping :(

Hi All

I got a Oryx Chassis in Black Friday sale for Howa Long action. I also ended up buying a 7MM PRC Howa rifle (BA was out so had to buy a Hogue one- will recycle the stock. That has internal magazine so no luck there).

1). I got a MDT pic rail. Clearly said for Howa long action so not worried too much.

2. Really struggling on the magazine though. It seems like all AICS pattern long action should work. However don’t want to make a mistake.

Anyone has any experience with this that can guide me.

Will either of these work?

https://mdttac.com/300wm-mdt-cip-la-polymer-magazine-3-rnd/

https://gunzonedeals.com/product/MAGPUL-MAGAZINE-PMAG-5-ACL-STD-5RD-LONG-ACTION-HUNTER-700-STK

Anything to keep in mind?

Doesn

Anyone heard of these? The price range is around $1700ish

Couple months back I asked what ELR cartridge I should adopt and landed on the 375 cheytac. Rifle is a Victrix Tormento V sporting a Elite Iron Asset can, ZCO 8-40, ClipIR ELR MK2. My dream build! Shoots softer then my scar17 lol

Not a meme title, had an unusual incident with a Vortex Viper PST GEN II 3-15x44 (MRAD ECR-7C) (Brand new) mounted to a ADM QDM Mount (scope torqued to 20in/lb) on a .308 AR10.

THE ISSUE: Reticle (MRAD Tree) "disappears" at 8x-15x

Before the range: Scope worked phenomenal, all adjustments crisps, reticle observable in all magnifications, diopter worked great. Placed rifle in locked storage case until suppressor released from jail.

The Range (1st time shooting) <20rd count: After about 6months of waiting for my permission slip, I hit the range. Upon getting everything unpacked and zeroed utilizing 3x-6x magnification, I begin walking back to fine tune my zeroing for further long-distance shooting. Upon hitting 8x magnification I noticed my reticle became so blurry and distorted I could only see the 3 "THICK" lines that lead to the MRAD tree. No MRAD Tree. At 10x+ the 3 "THICK" lines were only observable. Scope become unserviceable at some point during storage and/or firing.

Vortex's Feedback:

- Initial call w/ a few reps and they have never heard of this and thus initiated a warranty repair/replacement.

- Unit received by Vortex: Technicians slip states, "erector unit issues, replace model". No further elaboration.

- New unit received, but now I am reluctant due to last unit destroying itself upon first shots.

My Questions:

1. What could cause "erector unit issue" and what actually entails, "erector unit"? I do not believe my mounting, storage, or transporting was the issue. The scope worked great before the range. And surely .308 is not to "harsh" to cause this optic to destroy itself.

Hey yall! I’ve been shooting long range as a hobby with a bone stock howa 1500 for a couple months and just splurged out on a new MDT chasis. I figured i should get a trigger too. I know everyone likes the trigger techs but was wondering if there was something a little more budget oriented that is still nice. Thanks!

Built an 18” “SPR” with a proof research barrel. Shot hand loads only through it. Shot .6-.75MOA 5-10 shot groups with 65gr SGKs. Dumped 25 shots one time and it was still right at about 1 MOA. All this to say, the barrel is/was a shooter. Decided to try a different load. Tried Berger 70gr, garbage. Tried 69gr TMKs, garbage. 60gr TMKs, garbage. I got concerned this barrel that had been shooting so well for me wasn’t liking anything new, so I loaded up some 65gr that were proven. Now i’m getting 4MOA groups. Scrubbed the barrel (typically I just use patches), didn’t help, tried a different BCG, no help. Disassembled and reassembled the rifle completely (barrel removed and retorqued), no help. My LaRue barrel eats the same 65gr load and gets similar accuracy as my proof used to. So I know my handloads are good. Barrels got 1200rds on it. Anyone ever experience such a fall off?
Edit: I swapped scopes this morning and had the same accuracy problems.

I have an older Oryx and recently picked up another, both used. Both 700SA but quite different. Was wondering if someone could tell me what revisions they are. For some reason finding this information seems rather difficult.

The older one has a flush cup on the side of the buttstock, no mlok on bottom of stock, an aluminum bottom metal and is threaded through chassis for sling stud. Can't read part # with action installed.

Newer one has only the mlok on bottom of buttstock, a poly bottom "metal" and just a through hole (no threading) for a sling stud. Part # 106017.

Any info appreciated

I've used the precision match timer on my Apple watch, and I like how you can set times to alert you but it constantly exits out, so I just want to have a dedicated countdown timer I can easily reference during matches.

Also, I understand you shouldn't always worry about the clock but I would just like to have this covered thank you!

I've been kicking around the idea of doing a youth build in a cheaper chassis (LSS/ultradyne/outlier) with a carbine buttstock for my kid. worried about not getting the lop short enough or the comb high enough and wondering what yall would recommend. cheaper the better.

Luth AR MBA or taccom3g. looked intruiging from what I've researched so far.

also I just need a simple buffer tube like the one mdt sells to screw on right if I got something like the Luth AR MBA or magpul moe ? kinda clueless on the whole ar/chassis building, usually just shoot bolt guns. thanks

Hey everyone. Relatively new to magnum calibers and was curious about the potential to rebarrel from the PRC to WM or other way around. Ideally I’d like to be able to run either, but not sure how feasible that would be or if it’s worth the effort. I’ve read some posts about WM to PRC and it seems like it would be easier the other way around.

I like the lightweight and collapsible chassis of the MPR but open to opinions and alternate options. Edit: budget is around $2000-$2,500 for 1,000 - 1,500 yard target shooting. Mostly on BLM land so portability for hiking is important. I’ve been shooting .308 around 500-600 yards and want to extend my range.