/r/300BLK
/r/300BLK
First time lasering a 300 blackout pmag. The texture was a bit different so was nervous it'd look weird but came out nice I think.
So I’ve put about 1k+ through this Radical Bastard. I’ll spare you all the bastard build details unless you think it’s pertinent. I shoot mostly subs and up until my last range trip, all has been groovy. Now this thing will maybe fire a shot or two then “click”. Clear the unfired yet lightly struck round, let the charging handle go and maybe another click, maybe it fires. When it fires it will strip and chamber another round and will lock open after last round. Not sure what is causing this sudden development but read on other AR forums that it possibly isn’t going into full battery and the light “strike” is normal as the pin will touch the primer during this process But not actually fire. Anyone know more about this and what the fix might be? I’ll add that I did clean the rifle well before heading to this range session. Thanks!
First 300BLK build complete. It will be replacing my current bedside gun, the MK18. Excited for its first range day. Will be running 220 AAC OTM.
Hey everyone, last week I was finally able to get two of my AR's out to do some load testing with VVN120. One of the pistols has an 8" Barrel, the other a 9." I wanted to share my observations to see if others are experiencing similar velocities, and hopefully this will help some folks who are on the fence about VVN120, considering there isn't a ton of Data out there for this powder despite it being highly recommended for .300 Blackout Subsonic.
Both pistols were shot suppressed with a SiCo Octane 9 2.0 and chrono'd with a Garmin Xero (which is a total gamechanger, as many of you know).
I used Berrys 300BO 220 gr. projectiles set to 2.2105 COAL, CCI400 Primers, and VV N120.
I only made two loads with the VVN120 (20 rounds with 10.1 gr. and 20 rounds with 10.5 gr.) and I shot 10 rounds of each load in both pistols.
See the data below:
I find it interesting that the 8 inch at 10.5 gr. was faster than the 9 inch at 10.5 gr., and I also find it interesting how large of a jump in velocity the 8 inch barrel saw between 10.1 and 10.5, compared to the 9 inch.
I also feel like these velocities are slow compared to some of the posts I've seen on .300 BLK Talk (even though the aforementioned posters seem to be shooting out of 8 or 9 inch barrels)
Ultimately I'd like to sit at an avg. of 950-97 fps so I think I'll jump to 11.2 and work my way back down.
Anyway, just wanted to share some data in case anyone else was having trouble locating good data on this combo. Cheers!
I'm getting deep into the weeds of nerding out over ballistics, which is embarrassingly common to me. But I'm looking into the data for comparing the venerable 77 gr 556 bullets, 6 ARC, and super 300blk at intermediate ranges.(400-1000). At a quick glance, why is there no decent lighter 30 cal stuff? Is there some ballistic reason no one has filled that void?
77 gr HPBTs have a g1 BC of .36ish. 6ARC is approaching and often eclipsing a .5 BC. But most lighter 30 cal bullets are mid .2s. What gives? Am I totally missing something?
Hi all. 300 noob here. I am trying to figure out why I am having cycling issues with a factory 16” LWRC in 300. I’ve tried multiple ammo. Sub and super. Again this is NON SUPPRESSED. I don’t have a can - topic for another day - but I’d like to know if anyone has ideas why 220g sub, 208sub, or 110g have cycling issues. The 208 (to an extent) and the 110 I was able to shoot multiple rounds, but the bolt didn’t stay open at the end of the mag with any ammo Tried 4 different mags… a 10rnd 556, a 30rnd 556, a 10rnd 300 and a 30rnd 300.
I took a slow mo video, and it looks like the bolt is not moving all the way back. I was always under the impression that you could shoot sub ammo just fine unsupressed (correct me if I’m wrong) so I am wondering what the issue could be. Under gassed from the factory? Wrong buffer/spring? Feels like from the factory this should have been right. Especially the buffer. Any ideas? Thanks for the help.
This is strictly me complaining but god damn I hate the NFA so much. I don't care about anybody else's opinions about this stock concept cuz I think it's f*cking cool af and wish I could attach it to my 10.3 inch so bad. I would keep an extra 10 round mag full of Supers in it just in case the situation pops up I need to make some longer range shots, even has the option to snap on a cheek rest. This concept is cool af
Looking for any advice on building out the rest of my 7.5" build, mainly buffer spring and weight, and gas block recommendations. Gun will be suppressed and running subs. Current parts Geissele upper, lower and rail BCM BCG Faxon 7.5" 1:5 twist match barrel Geissele ACH Larue MBT-2S trigger Gas block? Buffer spring and weight? Lower parts kit? Can- likely Polo 30
And help to make sure this runs smooth is much appreciated!
Threw this together last night for my first build with some of the deals going around but know I’m probably missing something/could save some cash or have better parts for the same price. Let me know anything that you’d recommend changing!
1. Lower Receiver: Aero Precision AR-15 Stripped Lower Receiver, Gen 2, OD Green Anodized
2. Upper Receiver: Aero Precision AR-15 Assembled Upper Receiver, OD Green Anodized
3. Barrel: KAK Industry OE Spec 300 Blackout 8.5-Inch Pistol Gas Barrel
4. Gas Block: KAK Industry Adjustable Gas Block, .750 Low Profile
5. Gas Tube: KAK Industry Pistol Length Gas Tube
6. Muzzle Device: KAK Industry Micro Fluted Slimline Flash Can
7. Handguard: APF Armory AR-15 9” M-LOK Handguard
8. Bolt Carrier Group: APF Armory 5.56/300 BLK or 6.8 SPC Nickel Boron Bolt Carrier Group
9. Charging Handle: APF Armory AR-15 Charging Handle
10. Lower Build Kit: Palmetto State Armory SBA4 MOE Pistol Lower Build Kit, Black
Total build cost ~$912.00
I purchased some Winchester deer season 150gr for hunting whitetails with, but now I’m seeing people say that it doesn’t have a high enough velocity. What are yalls recommendations or thoughts?
Anyone have experience running one of these suppressed? Doing a build with it and hoping for some others that might have some more knowledge before I walk blindly into it. Gonna be suppressed with trash panda and 7.5” barrel. Not sure of the BCG just yet.
So im new to suppressors and the whole 300BLK platform, I recently acquired a 300blk rifle with a 1/8 twist 7.5in and was wondering what the best length suppressor or any specific suppressor ideal for a rifle like this? Any input is useful thank you in advance!
I’m building my first 300blk and I got a Faxon match 1:5 twist 7.5” barrel. I’ve heard horror stories of lower grain projectiles splitting apart or separating from the jackets inside the suppressor and I’m really trying to avoid that. From what I’ve read it’s probably a good idea to stay above 150gr for supers and over 200gr for subs but I’d like maybe either something more specific like a brand/ammo type I could trust or atleast a confirmation that I should be fine either way.
Hello all! Looking for recommendations on what reticle setups would pair well with a spear 9” .300blk I’m really building it as a home defense SHTF/bugout setup so I like the idea of a magnifier/eotech reticle. A friend has recommended eotech but didn’t provide magnifier/reticle specifics Open to all recommendations!
This is my labor of love and the product of good fortune and being in the right place at the right time. During Covid summer, a pricing algorithm had Walmart suddenly dropping their 700 ADLs (complete with crappy weaver scope and bases) down to 99 dollars. As you well know, when you have a chance to buy a brand new rem 700 for 99, you just buy it. I had no plans for this project when I got it. It was just an impulse buy
After I got it, I found that CDNN had acquired the leftovers from the Remington/AAC/Freedom Group bankruptcy. They had the leftover 16 inch threaded 300 BLK barrels from that AAC/REM model 7, which will fit the 700, for only another 99 dollars.
A guy a couple hours away is a 700 smith of regional note, and he offered to do a barrel swap for 60 bucks and if I would bring it down, he let me hang out while he did the work to avoid the hassle of shipping. A little fitting on the lug made it headspace perfectly. Selling the factory barrel on eBay got my 60 dollars back. Dropped it back into the factory action and poof.
Apparently, the Remington 300 blk ejector is a bit different than the .223, I thought I might have to swap it but it functions just fine. I want a new optic rail, new scope, maybe a JTAC chassis, but it’s not a bad little rifle as is. Very handy.
Anyways, Thank you for attending my Ted talk, thought I would share. IMO a Bolt action 300 BLK with subs and a can is the closest to Hollywood quiet besides a .22lr you can get.
Anyone using these rails that can share? I'm mainly looking at them because they offer a 13.5" rail, my goal is to have my handguard be as close to flush as possible with the end of my suppressor. Any other options out there that can achieve this?
What’s the thoughts of building this for deer hunting it’s a 300blk
Hey everyone, I'm making my first 300 BLK build and I wanted to share the list so far for opinions and if I got anything wrong, (like certain things not fitting with others) what do you think?
Barrel: Wilson combat 8" 1:7 barrel
Gas tube and block: matching Wilson combat tube and block
BCG: Wilson combat ar15 5.56 nickel boron bcg
Upper: Aero stripped upper
Lower: Aero stripped ar15 lower
Handguard: Aero ar15 enhanced M-LOK gen 2
Charge handle: Radian raptor SD
Safety: radian talon ambi
Upper parts kit: Aero
Trigger: Geissele SSP
dust cover I have
I'm still deciding on a stock because I know some don't work with certain bcg? So I'd like some help there and I'm thinking about just a magpul pistol grip and another lower parts kit I have for the random stuff I'm missing. Ty for help in advance!
Hey i am currently in the middle of my build and have the 7 inch q barrel with a 7.3 inch aero hand guard, does anyone know if the trash panda would fit? Would it clear the end of the hand guard?