Hello all, its me again!

I am still working on creating an on press system to chamfer and debur brass. I would greatly appreciate if you could fill out another short survey so that I can hear your opinion on what I've got so far and more ideas to come. Definitely let me know if you have a great idea to improve this further!

Click below to take my survey
https://forms.office.com/r/eqd2VJvgZi

Thanks for your time and happy shooting!

What's everyone's favorite 44 bullets?

So far my favorite bullet is my own cast Ranch Dog CTL432-265-RF. It feeds great through my 44 Magnum Winchester 92. I have used it in my 44 Special BlackHawk, but it shoots a bit high for close work.

https://preview.redd.it/ocqpgv6bqy3e1.jpg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=372b00b4dce342bc933d6ea56cb43b16430341a9

I have a 7.5 quart cast iron pot to melt lead but need a burner. How many BTU should I be looking at?

Local water board sent a bunch of notices about lead pipes and folks are losing their minds. I figure a bunch of lead pipe is about to be replaced and I want some for boolits. Any ideas on how to source it?

casting a couple of molds I have that are gas check design. I'm casting, powder coating then sizing.

My question is- do you always use a gas check on gas check bullets even if you are powder coating the bullets? Or are you doing it by how hard you are pushing the bullets, or diameter, or something else?

Photo shows Lyman 457406GC mold on left (490gr GC), a custom Lee 6.8SPC mold (105gr pc/gc), and on the right is Lyman 311359 for the 30 carbine. I don't have 30 cal gas checks yet.

I have gas checks for the molds/sizes that need them but have read conflicting reports on if I NEED to put them on with the powder coat. Some of the sizes I plan to cast are a bit harder to find gas checks for these days (348 win, 35 rem) but not impossible.

Mainly wanted to know if I should load/shoot the M1 carbine bullets or wait till I get the gas checks or if it's even needed.

Not sure it would make a difference but the majority of what I might cast would probably be lower end loads (lots of subsonic loads).

https://preview.redd.it/3benqwsd9w0e1.jpg?width=3502&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4814c1425ba9d7bfaec241e746c377308905bcbe

Hey !

I asked on another Reddit but no one knows.

I’m using a new hollow point mold for 9mil, it makes 145gr bullets. I copper plate all my bullets.

I’m usually using Vihta N320 or anything near that (Accurate Solo 1000, Alliant Red Dot, Hodgdon International etc…) usually with 125 grains bullets and 4 grains of powder.

But I couldn’t find the load data for that weight. It only goes to 130gr.

So is it possible to load my bullets with N320 ? If yes, how much ? I would start at 3 grains. (That’s what they suggest for Ramshot Zip, 3,1 grains. Which is the closest powder I can find data with that weight.)

Would you think this is safe ? Or that weight + powder is really a no go ?

Thanks a lot 🙏

I have some casted 500 grain led bullets what suggestions do you guys have for powder and how many ggrains I normally load soft tip led bullets wanted to try these thanks for info in advance

Looking at some molds for my first time casting and hunting. Accurate Molds 46-405VG, 415VG, and 430VG. All same design, but different weight. What would you pick for hunting white tail, black bear, elk, moose, etc? Or would you get a 350 grain for white tail and a heavier for bigger game? TYIA

Powder coat the size or size then powder coat?

I have a custom mold for 337gr 38-55 bullets, but I've heard reports that a 1:18 twist 30" Uberti High Wall has trouble stabilizing bullets heavier than 315gr. Is there a metal I can add to the alloy (I previously planned to do a 20:1 lead/tin alloy for about 12 BHN) to maintain a similar hardness but decrease the weight to the 300-310gr range?

The bullets are the hollow base out of a lee mold and they are sized to .459

The gun is an original springfield trapdoor rifle

Hi all, I'm interested in starting to cast bullets however in a more "modern" sense ans comparing a 10-1 alloy(91% lead 9% tin) and lyman #2 alloy (90% lead, 5% each tin and antimony) ive had basic luck with pure and 20:1 alloy with hollow base bullets and 45-70 at mild velocity. However now I'm branching out to bottleneck cartridges, mainly .308 and 30-30, both in carbine barrels, I've been going off of my lyman manuals as they seem to be a bit more descriptive, however I'm still not the most sure about comparing alloys, I plan to use lyman 180 GC spitzers for .308 (2300 max book, likely 2100 max actual) and lee 150gr FN GC at 2200fps book for both, most likely 2000 actual, I'd like to be able to use one alloy, how different would these be? These will be target only, and I'd like to of course maintain basic accuracy and mild leading, what would your insight be?

Hello everyone, if you have a moment I have a question- I'm mainly just looking for streamlined information.

I'm new when it comes to casting boolits, a buddy of mine gave me a rough tutorial before he had to go on a trip while under the knife to try and make a surplus, came back and said I had a knack for it.

Looking into it, the materials (at least for Lee stuff) isn't really all that expensive and I'm not too inept to not use PPE when it comes to working around carcinogenics however after doing some research bismuth has come across my desk as an alternative to using lead. The only thing I'm understanding is that it's less dense than lead but with a bonus of it being less toxic when melting and casting.

For now I'm sizing for 9mm, 223/5.56, and .308 (300blackout, I usually find 125grain off the shelf, but prefer 110s*RARE*/120s for supers, 220+ for subs out of a 10 inch barrel.)

Has anyone gone down the bismuth route with reliable results?