Hey shooters, are you tired of losing track of your ammo and reloading supplies? Want to keep your inventory organized, track your accuracy, and automatically deduct used components?

I'm working on Reloading Tracker, an app that does exactly that:

Ammo & Components Inventory – track bullets, powder, primers, cases, and more.
Reloading Log – record your handloads + import from Gordon Reloading Tools.
Shooting Journal – log your sessions, track MOA accuracy, and save targets.
Cost Calculation – see exactly how much each round costs you.
Mobile App (Android, iOS coming soon) – scan QR/barcodes, adjust stock, and log your range sessions on the go.

Try it out here → https://www.reloading-tracker.cz

I’m looking for feedback from the shooting & reloading community – what would you like to see improved? Anything missing? Does this sound useful to you?

Thanks, and keep your powder dry!

Dashboard

Reloaded cartridges

GRT import

Shooting log screen

Mobile app - Favorite cartridges screen

Moa measurment in app

Apparently the last time I cast with my .457” ball mold I got some lead in between the blocks. I know aluminum is easy to damage. Would bronze brushes be ok?

Hi !

I’m beginning my journey in the 300blk world.

There’s plenty of choices for subsonic. I’ll probably choose the MP Molds 311-230gr. Love this brand, they never let me down, compared to Arsenal who sold me a bad mold.

But I can’t find something decent for the supersonic profile, something like 110 or 120 grains (I would prefer 110…) to go as far and as fast as possible. I sent an email to Accurate Molds, we’ll see…

Any idea ? Which one do you use yourself ?

Thanks again wise ones 🙏

Hey just after some advice as am looking at making my own slugs for air rifle (.22 to start with but probably get a .30 barrel also later) just wondering if there’s any accuracy difference between casting them with molten lead as opposed to pressing them in a Mould? As have seen multiple options for it and not sure which would be best?

Any advice would be appreciated as this is my first time doing this

Ok, as the subject says, im new, but would to cast. Would like to start with 9mm and then work on other calibers.

Looking for your recommendations on equipment , happy to pay a little more for better precision and quality.

I normally purchase brass monkey bullets 137g..so, looking to try and get close to this.

So, can you.recommend molds, pot etc?

Hi all, i just started looking for this and dont see too.much at this time. However, what price would you say would be a good deal.

Thanks

Hi !

I’m just discovering the nightmare it is to cast 223 rem, I will make a last attempt on Tuesday and I’ll probably give up. If it is to shoot something close to 22LR, I’ll shoot 22LR… I should have made more research before going this route.

I hear a lot of people saying to go 300AAC BLK it’s way easier blah blah blah and one another guy told me it’s more complicated than it seems. What do you guys think ? There’s almost half the powder of 223… Of course there’s more lead but how hard your alloy must be ? (knowing that I copper plate.)

I cast and reload pistol and revolver for years, so I know a few things but I’m new in the rifle territory.

Thanks a lot again 🙏

Both four cavity brass moulds. One is a hollow base 455 Webley that should drop at .457”. It came with both hollow base pins, and plain base pins. For a heavier, non expanding bullet.

The other mould is a 30 cal Ness Safety Bullet clone. This was a bullet designed in the 40’s to shoot things in farmers fields without worrying about pass through or deflection. As the bullet is designed to use really hard lead with a hollow point that runs down 75% of the entire bullet. It’s basically a full wad cutter made for 30 cal rifles, with more hollow than point. Any impact will cause immediate destruction of the bullet so a ricochet can’t hit a cow in the next field over.

This came with four full length point pins, four of his famous “penta pins” that only go about half down, four roughly 1/4” cup point pins, and for shits and giggles four blank pins to make solid cylinders of anger.

Everything looks beautiful. And shipped from Eastern Europe to Michigan took six days. The moulds come in larger sized flat cardboard boxes so I’ll be looking for a nice plastic storage box.

Also they come with a nose point thing for use in a lubrisizer. I’m going to PC, but without paying for it I can whip out my luber if I wanted to.

I’m going to be rooting around his site for over the next few days. If he has a mould for my 40-60 win I’m buying two of them.

While I haven’t used it yet, other people’s posts assure me I’m going to be happy. And I can set each cavity to drop a different bullet and see which one shoots best in my 300 black out.

The boolet is weighing out to be 174.x grains @.309. Can someone ID the bullet mold. By my check in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 4th I tend to place it as the Lyman 311041 with the flat point. Any suggestions? For .300 BLK Mini 14.

https://preview.redd.it/zs1rccldjlce1.jpg?width=2712&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=65d97899be229ee78dc2eb80cb579dc164c999cc

https://preview.redd.it/wvj72mkdjlce1.jpg?width=3228&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=29b53cd41a45c66fad0dfd8eb0f5897b324d850f

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2025 is going to be the year I get serious about casting. So, I have a question: Do you size bullets before or after powder coating?

I am searching for powder coating documents but mostly finding youtube videos that don't give a lot of detail and have a lot of chaff in them to make the video longer.

From Ingot to Target by Glen Fryxell and Rob Applegate is an excellent resource for the casting community, or for that matter, those that reload with commercial cast bullets.

It was originally published on the LASC website, but unfortunately that sight has been allowed to expire. In the r/castboolits sidebar, there is a link to the book on the LASC site, but of course it's broken. The book is still available both on the artfulbullet forum and on BulletMatch.com .

I loaded up (50) 135 gr .309 coated RNFP bullets from MBC with 36 gr of LeverEvolution in my 30-30. This is the starting charge for the 135 gr FTX per Hodgdon. These things could not hit the broad side of a barn!

I loaded up some Sierra 150 gr FN and was able to shoot a decent group right afterwards, so I don't think it's the shooter. I'm shooting a Win Model 94.

MBC does great in my 44 mag. Leverevolution does me well with other bullets - so I'm willing to bet the error is somewhere in my pairing of the two. It was really bad. Much more than "this gun doesn't like those bullets" bad.

Am I pushing them too fast? (I did not have my chrono, but Hodgdon has that load at 2,461 fps). Should I try out the .311 bullets they offer for Marlin lever actions?

Thanks for your wisdom!

What lead to tin ratio should I use?

I may have purchased 5000 percussion caps, and now that means I need a percussion rifle but I am struggling with what I want to shoot out of it.

I have a flintlock with round ball I shoot already and I am unsure if I want to shoot roundball for percussion as well.

If I do shoot something else, I wanted to cast my own. Is a standard style boolet fine, or should I shoot a minie? Also can I powdercoat for BP? Would it be pure lead or can I shoot an alloy?

Where do you source your lead from?