Hey !

I asked on another Reddit but no one knows.

I’m using a new hollow point mold for 9mil, it makes 145gr bullets. I copper plate all my bullets.

I’m usually using Vihta N320 or anything near that (Accurate Solo 1000, Alliant Red Dot, Hodgdon International etc…) usually with 125 grains bullets and 4 grains of powder.

But I couldn’t find the load data for that weight. It only goes to 130gr.

So is it possible to load my bullets with N320 ? If yes, how much ? I would start at 3 grains. (That’s what they suggest for Ramshot Zip, 3,1 grains. Which is the closest powder I can find data with that weight.)

Would you think this is safe ? Or that weight + powder is really a no go ?

Thanks a lot 🙏

I have some casted 500 grain led bullets what suggestions do you guys have for powder and how many ggrains I normally load soft tip led bullets wanted to try these thanks for info in advance

Looking at some molds for my first time casting and hunting. Accurate Molds 46-405VG, 415VG, and 430VG. All same design, but different weight. What would you pick for hunting white tail, black bear, elk, moose, etc? Or would you get a 350 grain for white tail and a heavier for bigger game? TYIA

Powder coat the size or size then powder coat?

I have a custom mold for 337gr 38-55 bullets, but I've heard reports that a 1:18 twist 30" Uberti High Wall has trouble stabilizing bullets heavier than 315gr. Is there a metal I can add to the alloy (I previously planned to do a 20:1 lead/tin alloy for about 12 BHN) to maintain a similar hardness but decrease the weight to the 300-310gr range?

The bullets are the hollow base out of a lee mold and they are sized to .459

The gun is an original springfield trapdoor rifle

Hi all, I'm interested in starting to cast bullets however in a more "modern" sense ans comparing a 10-1 alloy(91% lead 9% tin) and lyman #2 alloy (90% lead, 5% each tin and antimony) ive had basic luck with pure and 20:1 alloy with hollow base bullets and 45-70 at mild velocity. However now I'm branching out to bottleneck cartridges, mainly .308 and 30-30, both in carbine barrels, I've been going off of my lyman manuals as they seem to be a bit more descriptive, however I'm still not the most sure about comparing alloys, I plan to use lyman 180 GC spitzers for .308 (2300 max book, likely 2100 max actual) and lee 150gr FN GC at 2200fps book for both, most likely 2000 actual, I'd like to be able to use one alloy, how different would these be? These will be target only, and I'd like to of course maintain basic accuracy and mild leading, what would your insight be?

Hello everyone, if you have a moment I have a question- I'm mainly just looking for streamlined information.

I'm new when it comes to casting boolits, a buddy of mine gave me a rough tutorial before he had to go on a trip while under the knife to try and make a surplus, came back and said I had a knack for it.

Looking into it, the materials (at least for Lee stuff) isn't really all that expensive and I'm not too inept to not use PPE when it comes to working around carcinogenics however after doing some research bismuth has come across my desk as an alternative to using lead. The only thing I'm understanding is that it's less dense than lead but with a bonus of it being less toxic when melting and casting.

For now I'm sizing for 9mm, 223/5.56, and .308 (300blackout, I usually find 125grain off the shelf, but prefer 110s*RARE*/120s for supers, 220+ for subs out of a 10 inch barrel.)

Has anyone gone down the bismuth route with reliable results?

Did the sharps model 1878 use a 405 grain or 500 grain cast bullet or did it use another grain weight?

Thanks

Bought some of the Lee breech lock bullet sizers for a variety of calibers. BUT I'm finidng that they don't match up to the stated sizes.

Here is what I've found so far when I'm checking some 9mm sizers:

.357 marked sizer- sizes to .3555

.356 marked szer- sizes to .356 (perfect!)

.355 marked sizer- sizes to .354

Using good quality (mitutoyo) calipers and they have always been pretty solid. Checking in a few areas on the bullets and even some different lead bullets (not just my cast and powder coated ones). The mold I'm using is an MP 9/38 155gr/147gr HP mold that sizes them a bit on the large size. did I just get two duds, and what should I do about them?

Testing a couple of them in the next few days to see what the pistols like (I've got quite a few 9mm, so slugging each one and seeing what they like isn't going to happen, as the rounds will get shot in Glocks, CMMG, FN, CZ, Sig, Kahr, and other pistols/rifles.

Stacked on top of H110, This has been my go to fire target and deer. Heading to Canada for salmon fishing. Wondering if this would be suitable for wilderness defense

If y’all had to pick 2 different powders to try with a 415-420 grain WFNGC boolit, what would y’all recommend? Looking to run ~1650fps in lever gun pressures. Will be casting out of Lyman #2 alloy, possibly cutting it with lead to a 94/3/3. I know this is a reloading question but since it’s for a cast boolit I figured I’d throw it in here.

I understand im suppossed to slug my bore to determine what to size my cast bullets to, but i have 4 9mm pistols and i dont want to make different rounds for all of em. Im used to buying projos from mbc and svc and they all work great, i measured svc and they come to .356 and work great, i dont remember what the mbcs came out to but they also worked great. Im likely going to get either the .357 or .358 but after doing tons of research online there doesnt seem to be a consensus on which one would be best generally for 9mm. I sized my first batch to .356 and they keyholed and leaded up my barrels, but i think it was mostly because my alloy was too soft. I made a new batch, and they came out much harder, but should i just use the .356 sizer again? Or should i start doing .357 or .358? Again i want to be able to use them in any 9mm, like my 4 or other friends pistols that might come to the range with me.

Been putting together everything I need but first time firing up the pot tonight. I made a PID controller for my Lee pot but I must have messed something up as it would come on and I could set temps but it wasn't turning on the Lee melter. Will do another post about that later, so I bypassed it and plugged in the Lee and stuck my lead thermometer in it to check temps (NOE thermometer). At first it went too high (800) so I dialed it back till I got around 750.

I started with a big old Lyman 457406 (480gr 45-70 bullet). the bullets were very wrinkled and didn't seem to fill all the way. thought maybe it was the mold or things still too hot. Poured maybe 8 to 10 but all still wrinkled (to make sure the mold was warm). All of them will go back in the pot. :(

Moved onto a (used) Lee 457-340F, and looked much better. Cast about 30-40 of them and then moved onto an M1 30 carbine to try (Lyman 311359 115gr spire point single cavity). These came out OK but still some wrinkles. Cast maybe 30 bullets. I can see why single cavity molds don't sell well. :)

So photos of each attached. Thoughts on my first cast? These are ingots I got locally that are supposed to be clip on wheel weights. I can check the hardness with a tester I have but not the composition. Try some other lead bars? Lead too hot or cold (tried to keep it just over 700 degrees on the thermometer)? Mold too hot or cold (i.e. going too slow or too fast between casts). I have a hot plate but didn't use it, was just playing around to see if the PID was working and decided to go ahead and cast a few. I have some new molds to try maybe tomorrow (NOE 300BO and MP 9/38).

https://preview.redd.it/5512i1m7a0vd1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a71e6e80fa0384aabdc918bc43c8cc2c7f51f20f

https://preview.redd.it/gbwlonq7a0vd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=904f6efcbdf51d0b674b1daa27cf9e7cf7e51d07

https://preview.redd.it/g77oi1m7a0vd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36650ca88aef047cc7c4c94f8e6170503e953c10

https://preview.redd.it/tit388m7a0vd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5e64a0b3d77039b02009f5beb8777430757a266c

Here in Saint Augustine, FL. Any tips where to get lead (ballast, shot, pellets) for cheap for melting? Striking out with our local shooting ranges.

I have a small 4lb Lee pot and have been contemplating 2-5% tin for better fill out of my molds. I’m a bit skeptical of doing this myself as I see it rather difficult to keep consistency from batch to batch. But my bigger question is where does one find such tiny amounts of tin to make such a small ratio to lead? And would it be beneficial to remelt my 1 lb ingots into 1/2 lb for an endeavor like this?

Hi all, I got some 20:1 ingots that are too big for the pot. How do you guys cut yours to size? Took an old hammer and hatchet to it, but it's sterner than expected.