I will eventually be getting a mini from my dad that was new when purchased in the late 90s. He said it's calibered in .223. I believe that 223 can be fired in a 5.56, but it doesn't go the other way around. Is 5.56 really not okay in a .223? If it weren't okay, then I would think I'd hear more issues about it.

Found a shop that will charge ~$600 for cut, crown, thread, time, pin/weld brake, to keep it legal. Any thoughts? I’ve tried looking all over online to see if it’s help, but all the forums are pretty old.

Granted I’m not planning to shoot over 200 yards.

has anyone made this upgrade? i have a 181- non ranch rifle and i installed a RR-200 the other day and i was surprised to find that it now co-witnesses the 407C on the hannibal rail. My surprise comes from the fact that the factory sight was accurate at 100yds and there was no chance to cowitness with the elevation settings. i'm hoping this will last since i haven't had the chance to go out and properly sight in the new sight. The parallax on the 407C is pretty good compared to what i'm used to.

New 580 series, and I put an LPVO on the factory (1 inch) Ruger rings. After putting 150ish rounds through (gosh this thing slaps) and realizing how much oily gunk the gun shipped with, I stripped it for a deep clean, hoping to leave the now-zeroed scope on.

Mistake: It was impossible for me to get the bolt back in with the scope on. For clarity, this may be a me problem—it took forever to get it back in even once I dismounted the rings (leaving the scope in the rings). For anyone struggling and watching youtube videos making it look easy, the only advice I have is to make sure your chakras are totally aligned and you are spiritually and emotionally in a state of equipoise. Maybe try doing a good deed, then return to trying to twist/jam/pray that thing back in.

The point of the post is that after putting the rings back on and torquing to the same amount, the scope held zero! So, I now know to just take that thing off right away (although I’m not taking that bolt out again until the gun quits working).

Has anyone fitted their mini with this optic? Can you share your experience?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2aSFNDP_to

For a 24 year old used one?

EDIT: Has a collapsible stock and tactical rails on it already

Anyone know where I can find a wood stock, possible OEM?

Accuracy Systems is expensive, and the OEM stock is sold out at Midway.

I’m looking to replace my polymer stock.

Got a brand new Ruger Mini 14 Ranch (585- serial number) and I've put through about 70 rds and I'd say it Fails to Extract about every other round - the spent casing remains in the breech and isn't extracted but the next round is fed. If I then remove the magazine and then manually cycle the slide it extracts just fine. No failures to eject. Just failure to extract.

I am using stock Ruger 5- and 10-rd magazines.

Any ideas how to diagnose and fix this?

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I've tried the following combinations:

• PMC X-TAC 5.56 55gr FMJ-BT
• PMC Bronze 223 Rem 55gr FMJ-BT
• 10 rd Ruger mag
• 5 rd Ruger mag
• Fully loaded mag
• Mag loaded with only 1, 2 or 3 rounds

Oddly, the first 10 rd mag went through with no FTEx but the problem seemed to get worse over time. I wasn't firing very rapidly and the range master (with a lot more experience) had the same issues with it so it wasn't just my shooting style.

A gunsmith at the FFL where I bought it is going to inspect it and see if they can diagnose the issue. Otherwise we'll send it back to Ruger.

I do like the rifle, it shoots well, sounds great and is fun to shoot! But I am very disappointed in its reliability so far - I *would not* rely on it for self defense in its present operating condition.

By contrast, I bought a few Glock 9mm's a few months back and they worked perfectly out of the box. Like maybe 1 Failure to Eject every 500 rds or so but no other issues after over 1,500 rds.

Sir,

We have taken over all the SAGE EBR Products and Accessories. We are currently shipping Standard Black EBR’s but they are all Backorders that have built up while they were out of production. Mini-14 Chassis are still not in production due to the high demand for the standard EBR. We plan on going into production Around the 3rd / 4th Quarter, but do not have final pricing on them yet.

I’ve noticed that all my 20rd mags clip in and pull out way smoother than the 30rd mags that I have. Seems that the hinge on the 20’s are also a different design. Anyone else notice the same thing? Maybe I’m trippin.

Kind of embarrassing. As the title states I have a Hannibal rail and after a day at the range I've notice the top right back end screw that holds the barrel clamp peice has fallen out and is lost. I emailed the company but haven't heard anything. Does anyone know the exact screw I'd need to buy as a replacement

Getting ahead of some of the comments, I get it, my 183 series mini is older than I am, it's not accurate, but it's fun.

I just scooped up an amega rail for my rifle and I think the barrel lamp is bent? The dang thing won't cycle, the charging handle isn't flush any more. Am I an idiot? Is there something that I'm messing up with this instal?

I should have asked before buying, but I fear that ship has sailed. Just ordered a direct thread adapter (this one: https://diligentdefense.com/product/ti-direct-thread-adapter/) to try popping an already owned (but not flow-through) suppressor onto a new mini-14. At this sub’s suggestion, I also ordered an adjustable gas block, but am wondering if it was dumb not to just spend the money on a flow-through suppressor designed for a high-gas firearm. The suppressor I’m hoping to use is one I have on a bolt action, and it works great there (but there’s no gas issue to contend with).

TL;DR: Direct-threaded, non-flow-through suppressor OK on mini-14 as long as I use an adjustable gas block?

Hey yall, I appreciate all the advice I got when asking about drilling out a qd sling base, and I took that info and made my plans. Here’s the result. Added a sling base on the stock, along with a cheek riser. Added a bit of pic rail up front to balance the light and used the cloud defensive switch on a 90 degree mount. The added weight isn’t very extreme, and if I absolutely hate it I’ll back off or pick up a new stock, but great so far. I’ve shot maybe 200 rounds as is and I really enjoyed it.

Holler if anyone has questions.

Has anyone installed this ProMag folding stock on their Mini? I can't seem to find anything on it anywhere, like pics or reviews. I just ordered it from my lgs. I couldn't pass it up because it was on sale for $70.

Hi folks-

I’m shooting low and to the left, so…yeah, I’m anticipating. I see that coin dry fire drills help correct that but: how to do that with the front sight that the mini has? The videos I see show a handgun with a flat top front sight. The only flattish surface I know on the mini is the top of the heat shield. I could balance it on top of the barrel, but I see that slipping off before I raise it to sight level. Am I over/under thinking this? Thanks!

Hey all, I just acquired a Mini-14 from my grandfather, and in searching around for .223 Remington to use in it on AmmoSeek (it's a 180 Series and I've seen you should exclusively use .223), I found Wyoming Cartridge Company. I couldn't find anything on Reddit about them, or any reviews online, but the prices were pretty solid so I was wondering if anyone here has any experience with them (or if you have any recommendations for cheap .223 I can use for plinking at the range that would be much appreciated.)

Thanks for the help!

Hi, long time lurker here. I have been thinking about getting a new handguard for my mini 14. I have owned a samson rail for about 2 years now, and have been eager to switch it out for something with more of a traditional/classic look to it. I used to have a light and dot mounted, however those have made their new homes on other firearms.

One of the biggest issues/flaws I had with the samson rail was how hot it got when I would shoot the rifle, especially this would be an issue when it came to the temps on both the light and dot, No malfunctions from them (nor the rifle itself), but this experience made me aware of it. I tend to shoot the rifle often enough, with a decent amount of rounds fired per range trip.

This had me thinking of what material handguard I should get next, especially with heat dissipation in mind. I know of the plastic handguards (ie choat), as well as the metal (aluminum) and wood guards produced by ASI. How are your experiences with these handguards (especially the vented ones), and which would you recommend?