I assume those tiny grips are to allow easier carry, can I put some big grips on the 2.75” Redhawk 357?

I have a lead on a pre lock 629-5, I think they fixed any “hot load” issue well before dash5 right?

What’s the “standard” grain range ammo for 357 and 44 mag ammo? I have some revolvers I honestly never got into shooting and I want to get them to the range

My family makes fun of the 1970s model 36 saying it’s “it’s a used gun why not buy a new one” they will never understand :(

I want to stress this is discussing a nonfunctional prop from denix

The juggling prop im using is based on the Single Action Army and came with some fairly cheap wooden grips (scales? handles?). I was hoping to replace them with something that is durable and threaded. The revolver came from denix with the two wooden parts held together with a wood screw, and so the wood pieces move a fair bit.

Ideally its just a black polymer situation, as im still learning to juggle and it gets banged around a fair bit. But if folk have any suggestions on brands to look at, im all ears. I dont need it to look "historical" or anything. It just needs to be hard wearing.

Bonus points if you can ballpark a price point.

Thanks again!

Hello everyone, I was given a High Standard Sentel by an old neighbor of mine. It's in almost mint condition, and I don't think it was ever shot by the previous owner (maybe once, he wasn't a gun guy). I've taken it to the range and put probably a couple hundred or so rounds through it. Out of every cylinder, I end up with about three misfires. Upon inspection, the rounds were struck but just didn't go off. They all ended up going off when stuck a second time. All this leads me to think the gun is light striking. How difficult of a fix is this? Is it something I should just let a gunsmith do? I really don't know what a fair price for a gunsmith to fix something like this is.

I have four Smith & Wessons. The 586 Classic opens and closes like butter. My Model 19 Carry Comp is a bit stiff to open. My Model 442 UC is also a little stiff to close. My 442 offers less resistance than the 442 Ultimate Carry.

While the Model 19 Carry Comp is a bit stiff to open, is that necessarily a bad thing? It shoots just fine. Lock up is tight and the gap between the forcing cone and cylinder is minimal. Is a difference from one revolver to the next common? Does it vary by frame size, generally.

My working theory is that the 19 Carry Comp and 442 UC are a more fine tuned and have tighter tolerances as a result. Is this something that others notice as well? Thanks for any insight or advice you can offer.

Just grabbed this 586 4". Went ahead and got this over the python but I'll be getting a 4 or 6 inch python also for the hell of it

Just got a S&W Bodyguard 38. Black finish. Overall I like it but the grip feels a bit cheap and ugly. Looking for some accessible and affordable grip options.

If anyone else is looking for some additional hardware for their Heritage.22’s, I’d check out salemlakesarmory.com. They 3D printed this shroud for me and it came out great. They also print some with rails for optics. https://www.salemlakesarmory.com/heritage-accesories/heritage-5026

Hi y'all, I'm dead set on getting one of these, but I'm just about tied on which one to get.

Ballistically, I understand the 4.25 is going to be more powerful and easier to aim and that definitely factors into my decision. But I also think the 3" looks cooler and feels cooler in my hand.

I'm definitely not interested in the 5 or 6 inch, and I'm definitely not interested in a 686. I've put 100s of rounds through my buddies, and though I love that gun, I want something different. Plus I think the Python in general looks way cooler.

I don't intend to carry it anywhere other than to the range, so I don't really care about size for carry. I doubt I'll even buy a holster—it's just going to live in my safe and travel in cases. The only reason I'm not considering the 5 or 6" is because I think they're goofy looking.

What do y'all think? Anyone have both and a preference? I like the 3" Combat Elite version, but I'm not really into the un-fluted cylinder or the stock grips. The upgraded sights are nice, but I'll probably put some Wilson Combat's on whatever I get anyways.

Not sure if this is the right place to ask but figured it couldn’t hurt… anyways I picked up an old model 10-7 for cheap at a gun show because it was missing the hammer nose (firing pin) and I thought it would be an easy fix. Since then I’ve purchased and tried to fit 2 different style hammer noses that were sold as replacements for a Model 10. I’ve seen some online listings for entire model 10 hammers for like $50 give or take. Would that be my best bet or is there a way to find the correct hammer nose without the hassle of having to replace the entire hammer.

I recently picked up a 629 deluxe with the wooden grip. I really liked the grip and never planned on replacing it…until shooting it. I don’t find that it hurts but I do find it slightly too big.

How are the VZ grips? They look like they may be a little thinner while still giving a good grip. Not really a fan of rubber grips so would like to stay away from those if I can.

Picked up this Rossi 461 chambered in 357 for 375$. Overall it seems like it’s in pretty good condition. Any other info you have on this revolver is greatly appreciated.

I've added a 1966 H&R Model 925 Defender to my collection. It's in need of some restoration, including a replacement extractor, but Numrich no longer carries a cylinder/extractor assembly. I've found a parts listing for the older Model 25 Defender. Both are the same caliber, .38 S&W, and both are 5 shot revolvers made by H&R. Would either the cylinder or extractor be compatible with my Defender?