Sticker with MSRP and Fees: $53,945

BREAKDOWN

• MSRP: $52,770
• Delivery Processing and Handling Fees: $1,175

Final out the door price is $56,399

BREAKDOWN

• Market Value Selling Price: $53,945
• Discount: $3,150
• Adjusted Price: $50,795
• Doc Fee: $85
• Tax: $4,833
• Non Tax Fees: $685

Is this a good deal?

Installed Options

• $250 Cold Weather Package: Heated Steering Wheel, Windshield Wiper De-iced
• $300 Digital Key
• $200 Digital Rearview Mirror
• $270 Front Cross Traffic Alert and Lane Change Assist
• $900 Head-Up Display
• $1205 Lexus Interface with 14-inch Touchscreen Display
• $500 Premium Paint
• $800 Panoramic View Monitor
• $160 2000lb Towing Capacity
• $75 Wireless Phone Charger
• $130 Rear Bumper Protector
• $460 Illuminated Door Sills
• $375 Cross Bars

I've never done this before so any insight is extremely helpful! I got pre-approved through my CU for up to a certain amount. At this point, I think I go into my bank and get the "pre-approved express draft" and then go to a dealership for the car I want. I assume I would then get the dealer to fill it in but then do I send this to my CU, go home, wait for them to reply and come back another day? I'm mostly asking because the vehicle I am looking at is 4hrs away from where I live so I don't want to drive all the way there to just have to come back some other day since it is so far.

This is where I'm mostly confused about how it all works. I remember like 10yrs ago I had cosigned a pre-approval for my brother (same credit union) and he basically just had a check he took to the dealer and gave it to them when he picked the car out and bam all done. But I'm not sure if that's how it still works or not... any help is greatly appreciated!!

My friend wants to buy a cheap car because he doesn’t want a car with payments. I am in need of a car and I would like to take over the title of his car. Only issue is the car isn’t paid off yet. He didn’t get a bank loan, he paid a down payment and is making payments to the dealership. With this being said, I would assume this is up to the dealership? Is this uncommon and how should we proceed?

Sorry if this is a silly or dumb question , I want to trade in my truck which is worth around 30-32k USD as of right now for a car that is worth 25k but as of right now I still owe around 38k as I traded in another car that I owed money on for the truck. How would the process work would I need to just get the owed amount to 32k or ???? Again sorry if this is a dumb question I’m kindve young lol

I bought a used car on Saturday at a reputable local dealership. On Sunday I discovered a significant leak/waterlogged carpet issue that wasn’t disclosed during the sale process (there’s a good chance they didn’t notice it).

They told me if I found any major issues after I took it home they would “take care of me” but I don’t know if that was just sales talk. I know the paperwork I signed explicitly stated the car is sold “as-is.”

I paid cash with a personal check. Would it be a bad idea to put a stop on the check before they can cash it Monday morning to ensure they have incentive to make this right before getting paid? Or will that just make them mad and lose goodwill? At this point I don’t care if they would take the car back and I’m back to square one if I get to keep the money and find a car without issues.

I plan to go in first thing in the morning and ask them to have service address this for free or a significant discount but I’m worried my leverage will be gone once the check clears and I’ll be trusting their decency and good will.

Hello,

I am considering buying this 05 LS430. According to description, it has “New timing belt, tune up, brakes, etc.” With a clean title. Almost 120k miles with black on black colors, which is my fav combo. Price being asked is $12,550. Here is a link to the posting if you need more details. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/866936792046040?ref=saved&referral_code=null

Thanks

I’m looking for no some bs advice or insight about the car market right now …

I lease a 2022 Toyota Corolla LE with about 22k miles on it and I pay $185/month and I’m nearing the end of lease term. I’m looking to upgrade to a 2025 Corolla or a 2024 Corolla Cross - either purchase or lease again for 3 years. I didn’t put anything down, I traded it in from another lease prior. They say I have about $3k in equity from it.

I have good credit, the car exterior/interior is in great shape and no issues with the car. I keep getting mailers/calls/texts from the dealer to come in and they’ll make me a good deal - I did and they were throwing around $500-$700 payments. I’m looking to stay near where I am, or not over $300. What’s the reality of that? I’m in Florida, USA.

Went to car dealer. Got car. Signed paperwork, and didn't realize until I got home that the math wasn't right. Yes, I get that I'm supposed to know what going on. However they never told me I was paying for extras until after I signed the loan contract, then told me I didn't have a choice even though they were listed as optional on the paperwork.

Looked at my paperwork and realized they over charged me $1294 for the car in the total financed for the loan. I went back yesterday and they have me a piece of paperwork that they hadn't given me the day before with so all my other paperwork. It included the $299 for glass etching(for a used car), and $995 for ucc. I asked why they were listed as option because I didn't want them. They told they were expected and I had to have them even though they said optional. This was the dealer contract.

Here's the thing. The paper they gave me was a contract between myself and the dealership for the optional add ons they had charged me for, that I hadn't gotten the day before. This paper was not included anywhere in what they have me when I bought the car and walked out the door with all the paperwork. And I never signed it. He had though, the financing guy. Why would they give me a copy of a contract I never got for options I never agreed to that I never signed?

I want the car. But I want my money back that they took from me. Already left a message asking for my money back(to the car loan or whenever), or I'll call the bank and see if they can help me resolve the discrepancy.

Or if they don't want to resolve the issue I'll just tell the bank they were misleading on a very important piece of my loan application that will get the whole thing voided, if the lack of a signed agreement doesn't help me.

I want the car, but don't want to be taken advantage of, if I can help it. If I'm stuck with the loss, I'll deal with it. I want the car. I'm just mad because I already refused the extended warranty even after they told me they wouldn't see the car without it. Well they did and they got their kick back in the end, but not if I can help it.

So if I didn't with the contract with the dealer for the added optional fees, what chance do I have of resolving this with the dealer, knowing what I already know, voiding the warrant because of it or for the other thing in they lied about, or am I out of luck? Please be kind, I still feel pretty dumb and very angry. I tried so hard to do everything I was supposed to and not miss something like that. Especially since it was 1:30 away from and I had to go there twice(second time was to get my other car I had left there, and the contract I never signed explaining the extra charges).

Hi There! I am considering trading in my Hyundai Kona that has 1/3 years left on the lease. I am a little confused though--Tesla gave me a trade in value of $15k. If I turned in my car to Hyundai now, I'd owe about $4k. In the contract, I also have the end of lease buyout price of $21k. Which of these numbers do I need to consider if I want to trade in my Hyundai to purchase a Tesla?

Thanks in advance!

Hello all, i just recently bought a used honda civic touring with 60k miles on it feom 2022 my credit is okay at 697 out the door with my 35350 down payment was 5385 the cost after that 28804 including the intrest cost. so im financing 20740 at 11.5 intest rate what do you all think? also is there a way i can get a contract cancellation agreement even if i signed decline and it would still be valid if i were to have gotten it? im happy to provide more details if it helps my questions thank you P.S im in california

In order to have a pre purchase inspection “which is something I just learned” in my car buying research. Is there a service the dealership would do? Do I pay some place to do it? Or do I call the mechanic I usually take my current car to do?

Not even sure if I asked the right question here I am just trying to avoid a mistake I made 3 years ago when buying another car unfortunately used.

So here soon I'm going to get a Tacoma (trading in my tundra cause I miss having a smaller truck) but I can't decide if I like the OR or the TRD Pro better (and before you say it I'm not worried about the money aspect) I made a list of pros and cons for both.

OR pros: Smaller, More leg room, and No gloss black

OR cons: No red leather, No iso seats, and No hybrid

PRO pros: (lol) Bonus off-road features, Red leather, iso seats, hybrid Better, and head lights with dris

PRO cons: the god awful fenders that are huge, Gloss black, No leg room, and Is a bit bigger

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This guy was pretty nice, and very helpful. Gave me his personal cell number, answered questions while off work. The car I wanted got bought before I could go down there and see it. He said he saw the one I wanted at another dealership and could drive it down for me. I didn't like the idea of someone else driving my brand new car, so I found where it was and bought it from them instead. Is that rude?

Looking at a used front wheel drive vehicle in my area. I live in an area that gets snow and will want to/would be wise to buy a set of winter tires. I priced it out and it's about a grand.

Is this ever something that will have any influence on selling price at a dealership?

I'm not familiar with the buying process at a dealership. Thanks in advance!

Looking for some advice on how to approach selling my old car after I purchased a new one yesterday.

Car to sell is a 2006 Accord automatic trans v6 coupe in white w/ 170k miles. Engine and trans are still kicking well.

Issues w the car:

- Needs new starter
- Needs new AC compressor
- Headliner is partially coming down
- Due for new tires - 3 are the same with 1 recently replaced w a used tire
- Could possibly use a brake job - rotors and calipers were done a couple years ago, though.
- Rims are pretty corroded
- Paint is in fairly bad shape - not horrible but not great
- Golf ball sized hole in front bumper from tow hitch
- Some wheel well rust and paint bubbling
- Quite dirty on the inside

Recent-ish repairs:
- New radiator within past 6mo
- New alternator a few years ago

My assumption is that it wouldn't be worth dropping a bunch of money into the car to fix the starter and AC compressor, right? Unfortunately i'm not super handy and not sure if it would be worth my time to try and do the repairs myself.

Aside from gettting the inside detailed and possibly the outside, what would be my best approach? My plan was to list on facebook marketplace for a quick sale, but not sure if there's anything else worth doing to fetch a better price that exceeds any other repair costs.

Thanks!

Trying to make a long story here:

I currently drive a 2021 Ford Bronco. I have about 5k in positive equity which I want to use as a down payment on an older Bronco that I’m looking to finance. The issue is, i need to sell the 2021 Bronco first to get the $$ for the down payment, but i also work full time so i need a mean of transportation for work for the week gap. Do I have any options here?

Found a dealer who uses cars.com heavily. They aren’t the lowest price on the vehicle I’m looking at, but seemed reasonable. No mention of pre-applied rebates, so I inquired. They came back $4k over the cars.com price, stating that cars.com sets the prices and they don’t have any control. This is bonkers, right?

I bought something way over my budget that turned out to have some issues that were gonna be costly, the guy was nice enough and said he would give me my money back but I had to register it and it would take forever and I asked if there was another way around it and he said he would check if we can do an affidavit and I have no idea what could that be. He signed under their dealership name and I signed my name on the title and I have a bill of sale also under the dealership name. Is there a way to undo it really like that? Anything would be helpful thank you!

So I'm interested in financing a +/-$60K today, and there's a few dealerships in my area - but don't want to run credit at each one, which would be hard inquiries multiple X. Why can't I just apply on Mazda Financial and they can process app, because they're the one that will finance the deal anyway. Best way to do this?

Hi all. Looking for my first car. I found a nice used Accord at a dealership near me. What they’re offering me is a down payment of about $3000, then pay the remaining balance within 90 days at 0 interest. Is there a catch I’m missing here? I can make the payments, that won’t be an issue. I’m just wondering if something like this is even legit. Seems a little too good to be true. Thank you in advance

So I live in Michigan, and the policy here is that the office of the Secretary of State holds your title until the car is paid off. However, I’d like to trade in my car but some of the options I’m looking at are out of state (Ohio, PA, MD); does anyone have experience with this or any insightful advice? And follow up question, how do dealerships handle transactions where the value of the car being traded in is higher than that of the car being purchased?

Hi! I’m from Italy, and I’m considering a job in car sales. I’m 18 and legally able to work, but I’m concerned about the hours due to to school. This is my last year, and I plan to finish my diploma, so I’d like to balance both school and work. I go to school every day except Sunday from 8AM to 13PM.

Do you think I have a chance of getting hired at a dealership in my area? Alternatively, I could work as a receptionist or take on other roles at the dealership until I finish school? What do you guys think?

Hi! I own a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek with around 111K miles on it - based on some previous estimates from Kelley Blue Book, the value is around $5 - $6K. I got a quote on repairs needed recently - Removal and Replacement of the transmission valve body (quoted to be a total of $2390 - includes labor/parts and I live in an expensive area in Virginia), and I'm thinking of selling the car since I don't really need one right now and don't want to pay almost half its value for the repair. Getting a second opinion would be around another $100+ and I generally trust the mechanic I went to the first time.
Other than this transmission issue, it's in good condition with no major mechanical or cosmetic defects. The highest offer I received was from Carvana for $4.8K and I disclosed the issue with it / provided photos. Other offers from Carmax / Peddle were around $2K. (I know I don't want the hassle of a private sale)

I am thinking of getting rid of this one and using the money to invest in a newer vehicle next year but wanted to ask for opinions or advice from some experts since I'm not really a 'car guy' - thanks to anyone who wants to weigh in!

If a dealer lists a vehicle for sale as a manufacturer-backed CPO vehicle, but it does not sell to a retail buyer and later the vehicle ends up for sale at another dealer (maybe the first dealer trades it to another dealer or sends it to auction), is the CPO still in effect?

I want to buy a new Cadillac CT4 Premium Luxury trim. The base model is $39,495. With all of the options I want it comes out to $48,005, according to the Cadillac website.

I've never purchased a new car before, though I have found a few online guides and already read some Reddit threads. For context, I plan to use a car loan from my credit unit to cover 60% of the purchase price.

My questions to you guys are: What are some specific strategies you would use to negotiate the price on this car with a dealer? I built this car out on the Cadillac website, should I just go to local dealers and build it out there? What is a price you suggest I negotiate it down to that I might reasonably achieve?

Apologies of this isn’t the right thread for this post. Any and all advice is welcomed. Thanks in advance!

Hey yall, I have recently become in need of a vehicle. I just moved to Texas in the beginning of October, and started a new job at the TDCJ.

I have been looking at financing vehicles near me for about a week now and recently went in for a 2020 Chevy Malibu with 95k miles on it at 12,5k. They told me that it had a check engine light on and was in the shop after I got there and instead showed me a 2021 Nissan Sentra for 19.9k.

After doing the paperwork and credit checks, they came back with my credit score being 590 (light file, just maxed my 2 credit cards in October moving here), and wanted to set me up with 4k down, 550+ a month for 48 months.

Couldn't do that, I can put at most $1000 down now without taking out a payday loan, so now I'm looking into a 2013 Kia Optima SX with 159,802 miles on it for $7,677 at a different dealership.

I have probably $1500 total, so im hoping to be able to walk out of a dealership with just $1000 down, and ideally find insurance for less than $500.

Is this plausible? I feel like financing a vehicle at such a low price shouldn't cost much.

Looking at Carfax the vehicle comes from CA, has had 3 previous owners, and no reported accidents. Carfax also says that with credit like mine I could finance at 16.70%, with 768 down at $198 a month for 48 months, but idk how credible that is.

Apologies if this is the wrong place to ask, but found a similar recall question here via googling for topic referenced.

A few years ago, I got a reminder that my 1987 Honda CRX still had a recall open for the seatbelts and for the windshield wipers

I took it to my local Honda dealership (Mesa AZ at the time) for the recall work.

After a while they told me they did the windshield wipers (bushing apparently) but they wouldn't do the seatbelts because they don't have the part and would close out the recall.

I'm still getting notices that the seatbelt recall is open still, was this truth and they just forgot to close it, or did they just tell me that because it was going to be a big deal to track down the part?

My understanding is a safety recall must be performed, no ifs ands or buts, but as I'm not a legal man I can't say for certain if that's a correct understanding or not.

I know my car is old as heck and it was amusing some of the techs didn't even know Honda ever made it.

Trying to finance a car with 2 months of work history my job prior ended in 2023. Could I use it as a paystub or will that not work?

(cross-posting psa!)

Hi Reddit! I’m a 24F and just landed my first job in car sales! I’ll be starting in a few weeks selling new Hondas. Before this, I worked in retail and briefly at a call center, so sales is totally new to me.

Since I have a few weeks to prepare, I wanted to ask for advice. What’s the best way to learn about Honda models and types? Is there anything else I should study or work on before my first day? I know there will be plenty to learn once I start, but I want to hit the ground running!

For those of you in car sales (or sales in general), what do you wish you knew before starting? Any words of wisdom for a beginner?

Thanks so much for the help!

So yesterday my wife and I went to buy me a car. Long story short we are giving my 18 year old daughter the current car I am driving and I am going to drive what we pick out. We ended up going to a Ford dealership.

We ended up deciding on a 2023 Nissan Rogue with 12k miles on it. Initially when they ran my credit they came back with an 8.6 interest rate for 72 months. This blew my mind and I told them I have a 800+ credit. The sales person asked if I had by SSN card on me, and I did so I have it to him.

He came back and said they misread my SSN and now I can get a 7.1 with Well Fargo.

When we go back to sign the paperwork with the finance guy he asked if I wanted an extended warranty and I said no. He then told me he got me a 6.8 rating with a credit unition and how our payment would be lower than we were told by the salesman. He left the office and came back and also said we got a free 2 year extended warranty. My wife and I thanked him and he started zipping through the paperwork.

Later yesterday night I was able to sit on the couch and go through the paperwork and I see that we got charged 1200 for the warranty by them. Doing the math its only 16 extra bucks a month but man, I really feel like its is unethical and they lied to me about the warranty and pulled me in with the payment that was 20 bucks lower.

I'm honestly not sure what to do, but I am leaving towards ignoring it because it feels like if I did make a fuss it would be more stress than it is worth.

Have any of you ever seen this done before?