/r/askcarsales

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PLEASE DO NOT MESSAGE US VIA MODMAIL.

Read This First!

There is no AskCarSales Discord, Reddit Chat, Facebook page or otherwise. This is the only official r/askcarsales. Anything else is run by somebody else and has nothing to do with us.

Everyone's question is buyer specific, but some/all of your question may be easily answered using our FAQ's - check them out below!

Rules - Laws of this Subreddit!

Rule One

Please post the Model, Year, Miles and Trim when asking vehicle-specific questions to help us resolve your issue faster! This should include trim, major options (engine, 2WD/4WD, specific options or add-ons), and an honest evaluation of the condition. Mods reserve the right to remove excessively vague posts that are not clarified within a reasonable time frame.

Rule Two

Please let us know if you are financing or paying cash in regards to a lot purchase, so we can respond with the appropriate information for your situation. As well as what country/state you live in.

Rule Three

If you have suggestions/thoughts/comments or anything you need to discuss with us then please press the message the mods button below, we will reply as promptly as possible.

Rule Four

If Posting any type of links, Please format them. Only flaired car salespeople are allowed to submit links such as videos or blog posts. All other links are only allowed in the body of a question. Do not post a link to your dealership's site, or any site for the purpose of selling your wares. This is considered spam.

Rule Five

If you are a car salesperson - we encourage you to submit proof to mods to get flair, so that anyone will see if an answer comes from a salesperson, or a regular Redditor. To submit this request, message the moderators.

Rule Six

The Mod Team has final say in all disputes.

Rule Seven

Spamming will not be tolerated. This includes trying to make a sale through the comments. We don't allow commercial advertisements, messages, solicitation or referrals in here. Basically if you're looking to transact business it's not permitted here.

Rule Eight

WE WILL NOT DO VIN CHECKS! This Includes CarFax and Autocheck, and MMRs.

We will, however, provide VIN checks for new car rebate compatibility, especially as it pertains to manufacturer pricing plans such as Ford A/D/X/Z-Plan, or FCA Affiliates Rewards Program.

Rule Nine

24 Hour Engagement Requirement. If you post a question in this sub and then do NOT engage in the discussion within 24 hours, the thread gets deleted. These context-less threads are a breeding ground for troll activity and they contribute nothing to the overall ability of this sub to impart knowledge on subscribers. We want robust discussions here where people can get the whole picture of a situation. These threads only provide a sliver of context and result in a LOT of assumptions and guesses.

Rule Ten

I thought this went without saying but apparently it needs to be said - this is our sub. It was created and is run by people in the car industry. You're allowed to dislike us but if you express that in here you'll be warned. If the behaviour continues you'll be banned. At mods discretion we may skip the warning if we feel you'll never be a valuable participant here. There are hundreds of subreddits you can subscribe to where bashing our profession is welcomed. This is not one of them.

Rule Eleven

This sub exists for industry professionals, past and retired alike to give consumers advice navigating the car buying process. Non-flaired users, people not in the car industry are welcome to provide additional feedback but keep in mind it is a courtesy. Only verified/flaired industry people are allowed to make top level responses. If your advice is found to be harmful, misleading, incomplete or derisive of our industry (see rule 10) that privilege will be revoked. Some examples of advice that will not be tolerated here include "Never buy a (new) car until you own a house and max out your retirement savings.", "Never buy a car you can't pay for with cash.", "Never buy any aftermarket / add-on products or warranties.", "Leases are bad/Never Lease." or really any other "Frugal" response or absolute.

Terms - A guide to help you!

  • APR - Annual Percentage Rate
  • OTD - Out the Door (Pricing)
  • TTT - Tag's, Title, Taxes
  • NE/PE - Negative Equity or Positive Equity
  • TIV - Trade in Value
  • ACV - Actual Cash Value
  • MSRP - Manufacturer's Standard Retail Pricing
  • DX - Dealer Exchange
  • CPO - Certified Pre-Owned

Related Subreddits

/r/askcarsales

216,053 Subscribers

1

Car Being Held At Rail Yard. Dealer Can’t Get An Answer.

I’m purchasing a Honda CRV and everything has gone smoothly except for when the car arrived at the local rail yard.

So far it’s been held up for two weeks over what my SA says is a “service division hold”. She said it could be a QC check (not sure why that would happen at the rail yard). And it sounds like their hands are tied as to being able to push things along or at least get answers. They’ve attempted to find out what’s going on but they can’t get an answer back.

Does anybody have insight as to what might be going on? Frustrating to know it’s sitting 8 miles from our house and we can’t do anything.

4 Comments
2024/04/26
22:17 UTC

1

If a vehicle is located at a salvage auction, does that mean it’s a salvaged vehicle?

TLDR: Bought used vehicle with a “clean” title and with one accident reported. Discovered recently that the vehicle frame is bent after I was told there was no structural damage to the frame of truck. Searched VIN and saw it was located at two Salvage auctions in a different state than where I’m located now. (Copart and IAAI).

Long Version:

In 2022 I bought a 2020 Ford F-150 from a used car dealership with a very reputable source. I’ve was told that the vehicle had one “owner” and did have a small accident, at the time the gentleman that sold me the vehicle didn’t have any type of information so he “dug” around to attempt to find exactly what happened. After a few minutes of searching he said that what he sees on his computer was the right passenger door was side swiped which deployed one airbag. So be it, I did purchase the vehicle with the vehicle being under a warranty with the dealership stating as long I keep regular maintenance of tire rotations and oil changes they will give me a life time warranty of drivetrain, powertrain, etc. Fast forward two weeks ago, I went to a dealership with my friend and the salesmen seen me looking at a newer vehicle and he said “let me get you in that” I told him what I had and he asked if I had my vehicles vin number. I proceeded to give it to him to shoot me an offer for my truck. He said “dang man, did you own the vehicle when the accident happened?” I explained I wasn’t and that from what I know the passenger side was bumped/side swiped or something of that nature. He then said that he would have offered me more money but my truck was involved in a pretty serious accident on the front bumper area. I was sort of shocked but attempted to do my own research about my vehicle. Upon research using my VIN I had finally found some images of my vehicle. It was in an accident where the driver of my vehicle had what it looked like rear ended someone. I immediately got on the phone to talk to someone because on this image it stated it was sold at a Salvage auction. Once I was on the phone with someone that could help me with the issue I explained my situation that I am having. The lady I was speaking to is in charge of all the big deal shops locally so I assumed she did this a lot, however she told me that she’s never heard of a “salvage auction” where the vehicle wasn’t salvaged. She told me to call my bank and ask if my vehicle has ever been salvaged. Bank states no we don’t have any indication of that and if they did they would have never approved my loan. After some minutes of conversation she asked me to come in when I can. Full time student and working basically everyday. Fast forward to this week I had some spare cash that I decided to throw a leveling kit on my truck (less than $ 100). After they had installed the leveling kit they did a tire rotation. The gentleman called me and said they weren’t able to get a perfect alignment because something is off. Upon further investigation he stated it looks like my frame might have been pushed in and attempted to be pulled out. He also said that my rear end was throwing a thrust angle, in terms means it’s crooked. At no point was I told that my frame was bent or my rear end wasn’t up to spec. I’ve took this truck a few times to the dealership for oil changes and rotations but never have they said anything about my alignment being off. The man that installed the kit said before he proceeded to put the leveling kit on my alignment wasn’t straight from the beginning. I went to the dealership after receiving my truck to speak to the lady I had spoke to on the phone a few weeks ago. She came out saying she remembers speaking and that she needs to grab some stuff from her desk that she had printed out, she comes out with some information I’ve never seen where at the bottom of the page it was numbered 1/5,2/5, ect. I had signed page one where it stated vehicle was in an accident. She said that I should have signed all 5 pages but the salesman didn’t have me sign but the first page which was a carfax type of document. I should state that this report on my vehicle history that I had signed wasn’t a “sign here” document it was just my name wrote on the first page of the vehicle history/vehicle report. Upon reading this new information I can see when it was manufactured and sent to Ohio do a dealership and all miles documented until I purchased the vehicle. However, there was roughly 2K miles undocumented and I had found out the 1 owner was Enterprise. My truck was a rental which I never knew about. A “higher up” at the dealership came out and said that all this should be documented and that they didn’t know as well and they will start making phone calls because this vehicle should had never came to the lot or have been flagged about its history. the higher up said he will give me a call and seemed sincere but I’m still a little hesitant due to them not being very clear about the history. The women came out and looked at my tires and did state it has uneven wear and would like to see the frame of the vehicle to confirm or deny the claim of a bent frame. And if so, they will fix everything for free, and she kept repeating it is a great vehicle and if you didn’t see the pictures you wouldn’t have known ect. So I’m waiting for a call today to see what they are going to do to approach the situation, but I’m not sure if I would want to keep a vehicle with a compromised frame due to safety for myself and others riding with me. I would also like to point out while I was doing research about the whole salvage auction and that if a clean title vehicle can be in a salvage auction I came across a forum about how Louisiana , Oklahoma, ect. can “wipe” titles clean. Jokingly I saw how many miles it was from my location to Oklahoma and it was roughly 2K miles, same as the undocumented ones that wasn’t reported on the vehicle history. And to add the cherry on top I looked at the previous title where it was registered in the state of Ohio and the owner was Enterprise located in Tulsa, Oklahoma. So I’m lost for words at the moment I could be reading into the whole salvage auction thing or I could be on to something. I recently purchased a vehicle history from a website and it did show a section for Salvage/Junk/Total Loss and it showed after the accident and the location of the auction with my vehicle information. Can someone please just help me find my footing on what to do next. Thank you everyone.

4 Comments
2024/04/26
22:15 UTC

3

Dead Engine, owe money, need a new car

Not for me, but someone close owes 8k on a car and it died. Two opinions both say a new engine is needed. One quoted 8k, another quoted 10.

What are the best options here, person needs a car.

Is it possible to roll over all this negativity equity into a new car loan? Like walk into a dealership have them buy it out and roll over the rest of that loan into something new?

This isn't for me and I know the solution is to get a bike, but let's say that this person is going to get a car one way or another and accepted the fact that they lost money.

7 Comments
2024/04/26
21:28 UTC

0

$9,000 negative equity rolled into a lease?

Long story short, I found a car I like that has a lease deal for $250.

I have $9,000 negative equity according to Kelly blue book.

$9,000 divided over a 36 months lease is $250.

My lease payment would be $500 a month for 36 months, right? Am I missing something?

I have 740 credit score and my wife has 805 credit score. Not worried when it comes to that part of it.

Have you ever seen anyone roll this much into a lease?

7 Comments
2024/04/26
21:12 UTC

0

Should I buy this Tacoma

I’m thinking about buying this Tacoma it has 300,000 miles on it but it has a blown head gasket should I buy it or should I stay clear

5 Comments
2024/04/26
21:10 UTC

0

Car dealer offering 255 bi weekly deal on a 2024 crv Honda base model leasing for 60months . Is this a good deal ? I’m in Ontario

3 Comments
2024/04/26
20:57 UTC

1

Did I Break a Rule or Something?

I'm in the market for a car that - with the exact specs I want - is scarce.

Last weekend I went to test drive a different version of it and ended up ordering the exact one I wanted from that dealer. ETA was in late summer. The dealer said my deposit was fully refundable.

The deal they gave was ok but I thought I could do better, so I reached out to a couple of other dealerships in the area to see if they could beat it, figuring that I'd likely still have to order.

Another dealer ended up finding an in-stock car that has everything I want plus some things that I don't. Whereas I'd typically pass to get exactly what I want, the deal they offered is so good that it's more than paying for the extra options and still saving me money off the first order.

So today I reached out to the original dealer to cancel the order I placed last weekend. When they asked why, I was honest. Once they confirmed that they would cancel, I then reached out to the dealer with the car I want to let them know that we had a deal and I'd like to come buy it tomorrow. I also asked if there was a time that was best.

That was 3 hours ago and I haven't heard back, which seems very odd given how responsive they've been otherwise.

Did I do something wrong here? Am I now dealership blackballed or something?

4 Comments
2024/04/26
20:28 UTC

0

No freaking signature on my bonded title UGH!!!!!

So , I feel like an idiot. I bought a 2004 Toyota Solara That had a bonded title I bought it from someone in Oklahoma I live in Texas. My car recently was wrecked I only had liability insurance it was a hit and run so With my Underinsured liability insurance The car Is going to be a total loss. They're going to give me the car back and a settlement but I have to come in with my title I couldn't find my title anywhere and then I remembered I left it at my brother's house in the safe. Well he pulls it out And I'll be damned it's the thing is not signed. what do I do????;I'm supposed to have my title Wednesday to go To the Insurance office to get my check For my settlement And bring my title for them to see make sure that it is my vehicle so can I just sign it and take it up there or I'm unsure of the process that has to go along with this. I think it ended up coming in the mail and he just put it in the safe and I don't even live in the same town as he does so I think we just forgot about it please please I need somebody's help ASAP cuz I don't know what to do but I need that settlement in order to get my car fixed which I have to have this title in order to get the settlement to get my car fixed please anybody that has any recommendations what do I do I don't physically have the title on me so I can't actually see the back he sent me a picture, am I going to have to have like a notary sign it or somebody else sign it as well as me? And does it cost for every like month that I've had the car and it's not signed I heard that too? I'm so confused, please somebody help me. Thanks guys in advance. Am I completely overreacting and just freaking out for nothing can I just get the title sign the damn thing and take it up there is it going to be that ? And I'm just being way too over analytical ?? 🤞

7 Comments
2024/04/26
20:07 UTC

1

RUT-25 illinois

Hello everyone. I brought my car from Canada, paid tax for it, owned it for over half a year before coming to the state of Illinois.

They charged me $2500 tax for RUT25... Robbery... I saw in the form "Line f: Check Box f to claim the out-of-state resident exemption. Illinois law allows an exemption from use tax for an individual who was an out-of-state resident and the item was used outside Illinois at least three months. You must surrender the out-of-state title, registration, or other proof of the item’s use when you apply for an Illinois title. You cannot claim this exemption if you are a business relocating into Illinois, an individual who used the item outside Illinois for less than three months, or a military member whose home of record is Illinois."

I started calling the hotline, and they told me that I am not entitled to it because I am from Canada (my car for Canada,) not from another state. Is this true? I am very upset...

My friends from other states didn't have such problems and didn't pay such amounts at the DMV with CA car. Can I appeal this in any way?

2 Comments
2024/04/26
19:56 UTC

1

Lease Buyout

I am planning to buy out my lease. Online I am able to get a payoff quote and I see there is a payoff form you can submit. I am approved for a loan through my bank which covers the amount. However, when I go into the dealership it seems I have to pay the payoff price plus tax and a few other fees (like title registration stuff, I know you can decline the warranties and certifications etc). So my question is, if I do this online without the dealership, when do I pay the tax? And will I eventually have to pay other government document fees etc? Like after I submit the payoff, what happens next or still has to happen before the process is complete?

6 Comments
2024/04/26
19:31 UTC

0

Get car loan with no job?

Good credit, no debt, smallish monthly income from disability and have plenty of money saved. Would it be possible to get a car loan if I have 1.25x the amount of the car in checkings? Obviously paying cash would be ideal but I'd rather remain liquid for the time being and pay the car off in chunks.

3 Comments
2024/04/26
19:23 UTC

3

what to do with paid off car and leaving the country for 12 months

Basically the title. Paid off 2014 Honda with 170+ miles. Loan to a family member and they pay the insurance? Or just sell? Hard to want to sell a paid off car but maybe it’s too much a hassle to let someone borrow it while I’m gone for a year. Any advice pls

8 Comments
2024/04/26
19:23 UTC

4

Bad credit with trade In

Due to some life events it looks like I will need to get rid of my truck and get a 7 seater. I currently have pretty bad credit around 550, my wife and I hit some hard times during covid and we lost her car to a repo, I was the co signer on this vehicle. I have a 7 year loan on my truck with 100% on time payments, I am due to pay this off in 9 months but will need a new vehicle before December.

The trade in value is currently around 17k and I have around 3800 left on the loan. I am currently working on fixing my credit and will continue to pay my truck down. I also have had a mortgage for 4 years with 100% on time payments if this will even be looked at.

I would like to get something newer around 30-35k. I don't know if i am going to be royally screwed on interest rate or not.

4 Comments
2024/04/26
19:04 UTC

1

Buying a new Truck (non titled) that’s been in an accident. Bad idea Or Good deal?

Hello. I’m close to pulling the trigger on a high trim 1/2ton pickup. Sticker price is close to $85k. Dealer is asking $70k and I think I can get them a little lower (it’s a 2023). Can also get 1.9% financing.

Well. Caveat is. It’s been in an accident. Front bumper was replaced. Maybe a test drive accident? Truck only had 15 miles on the odo.

Is this a bad idea? Should I trust the dealer? Is it even worth pulling the car fax? Or should I run away? It’s a reputable dealer in a small town on the outskirts of a big city.

6 Comments
2024/04/26
18:53 UTC

1

Kia Sorento 2023

Hey All!

New to this. Kia Sorento 2023 X Line asking Price is 42695 with 6000km on it.

What wiggle room do I have with the dealership. What kind of things can I ask for as he's mentioned negotiating.

3 Comments
2024/04/26
18:45 UTC

1

New vs used?

Hi there. In the market to replace our car. Can afford about $40k. Credit is around 794. What is ya'lls current opinion on used vs new? Looking at CR-V, CX-50, CX-5, Forester and the like. We live in San Francisco, CA.

My husband wants to buy new. He doesn't want the risk of buying used.

I'm open to sweet deals...totally fine if there are discounts for cosmetic issues (a ding here and there is not bad).

  1. What is the current pulse on new vs used?
  2. If we go used, what is your advice for protecting ourselves and looking out for longer term issues?
4 Comments
2024/04/26
18:39 UTC

1

Would my old beater Corolla even be considered for a trade-in?

I've decided it's finally time for a brand new car and I'm on the hunt for a Civic Si that I plan to finance with ~20% down.

My daily driver is a 2006 Toyota Corolla that I bought new when I graduated college. It runs great but has 180k miles and is not in mint condition by any means. Would any dealer even consider this for a trade-in or am I better off just selling it myself on Facebook Marketplace? I don't need to get rid of it in order to afford the new car.

6 Comments
2024/04/26
18:38 UTC

1

2007 Honda Fit Sport with 200,000 miles Trade-in Value No Catalytic Converter?

Hi!

My catalytic converter was stolen this week from my Honda Fit. It is a bit rusty and has about 200,000 miles on it, and has given me some problems since I purchased it last year. My insurance gave me an estimate of $2800 for repairs, and my mechanic is submitting an additional quote for a pipe that they left out of the initial estimate, so it would likely be somewhere around $3300.

I'm thinking of trying to get a different car instead of counting on this one, and am wondering if I should forgo the repairs and try to trade in my car, or if it would be better to repair it first with the money my insurance company offered and then trade it in for something a little newer with less miles. Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you!

4 Comments
2024/04/26
18:30 UTC

0

Best way to sell a car on the weekend?

Hello, I’m selling a car to an out of state buyer and he’s coming to see it tomorrow. What would be the safest/most convenient payment method for both of us? We won’t be able to meet at a bank since they’ll be closed, I was thinking wire transfer but I’m not sure if they process on the weekend. The buyer lives around 10 hours away so I don’t want to delay him longer than necessary. Thanks in advance.

2 Comments
2024/04/26
18:05 UTC

8

Car swapping

I went to a small dealership to look at a few cars I saw online. I really wanted one of them and the other two were crap (same make/model). I still needed to go check out one other car at a different dealership and it was getting late. The car at the second dealership was not as good as the original one I wanted so I decided to go back to the first dealership the next day to test drive the car I wanted and probably buy it. I called in the morning and confirmed the car was still there and gave them a time when I would be there. When I got there they told me that the car had been sold the night before, then proceeded to try to show me their crappy models that I had already seen. I told them I looked at those yesterday and didn't want them and left. Later that night that car (matching VIN) popped up on a different website for another small dealership across the street from the first place I saw it, same mileage and price. I looked it up and it appears that both dealerships are owned by the same people. I still want that car, but I'm getting mixed opinions from friends and family. What say you car sales people? This is my first time buying a car from a dealership and I'm just not sure what to think. Thanks!

9 Comments
2024/04/26
17:30 UTC

2

Buying a truck with bank draft that has an existing loan on it. What are the steps to take. (No title, in Canada)

Want to buy a truck privately and the seller told me there is a loan on it. My concern is I want to take the truck home with me by the weekend. Is that possible, or what's the proper steps to ensure I don't get screwed? Being in Canada we don't have titles. Dealer with the loan info is local as is the truck. I'm going away for work and wanted to take the truck with me.

3 Comments
2024/04/26
17:29 UTC

1

Which one is a better deal between the two? Or is there a better deal out there?

  1. 2017 Chevrolet Trax LT Front Wheel drive

19,000 miles for $14,000

  1. 2017 Hyundai Tucson SE PLUS All Wheel Drive

77,000 miles for $12,000

Between the two which one is a better deal? Or is there a better deal with similar price for the milage out there? My price range is around $15,000 and my top picks are Honda and Toyota however the ones around the same price milage skyrocket and the ones with similar milage to these two I’ve seen price skyrocket.

Any advice would be appreciated thank you.

Edit: my long term plan because money is the main thing and I have weddings and other things that need to be done, I want a car right now around 14,000$ and my sisters as well can learn how to drive it and ding it up, then 8-9 years later when I’m more settled, I’m planning on replacing it with a good Honda or Toyota around 25,000$.

2 Comments
2024/04/26
17:29 UTC

1

Refinance, Trade in, or keep it?

I currently have a 2020 Kia Soul s, purchased from Carmax around 30k miles around 2 years ago, and financed through Exeter for 12% interest rate, but the payment is only like $209 since I put a lot down. Interest is high because I had virtually no credit but now over the last couple of years I've raised it to over 700 and get letters in the mail randomly about how "we can get you down to 3-4% interest by trading in or refinancing" etc.

What I'm wondering is, should I keep paying the last 10K off at the current rate, should I look into refinancing, or should I do something else entirely? Seems like a bad idea to pay at the current rate but it will also be paid off in like 36 months or less.

Sorry if this seems like a dumb thought, not my realm.

3 Comments
2024/04/26
17:29 UTC

1

What is this customer trying to tell me?

Sold a vehicle a few days ago that is now having some issues. Vehicle had been trading due to issues customer was having. I disclosed that info and verified everything had been taken care of as part of the warranty before he purchased it. Chose it due to the low pricing compared to a brand new model.

First day he was just hearing the normal noises the car makes. Today the vehicle apparently cut off when he pulled out of the driveway.

Both days ive seen him he really reiterates how its been a rough start with the vehicle and etc as if to get a certain response from me.

Ive mentioned “Well you are in a great place, service will take a look. Hopefully its something simple”

“If all else fails we can trade you into something else if thats more comfortable to you”

“Im sorry you are experiencing this but positive side is its all covered in warranty and youll be good.”

Am I not reading enough between the lines?

7 Comments
2024/04/26
17:02 UTC

2

Would a new 2024 model go down in price when the 2025 models come out?

I can't recall where I heard this, but 2024 models might drop when the 2025 models start arriving?

Is this true? Does it depend on the brand? If it is true, when do next year's models start arriving? Therefore, when might be a good time to buy a year 2024 vehicle?

12 Comments
2024/04/26
16:55 UTC

0

As a customer, what is your expectation of the salesperson when you are not serious/not ready/not realistic?

General question. Is the expectation that no matter where you are in your process that the salesperson dedicates a lot of time, high energy etc?

5 Comments
2024/04/26
16:44 UTC

1

Should I buy a Honda CR-V with 200k miles on it? (Indiana)

Hey, so I'm looking to buy my first car. The thing is, I'm an international graduate student in the US, and that means two things: 1. I have a comically low salary and 2. I'm only guaranteed to be in the us for another 3 years.
Basically, this means that I have a very small budget (let's say $7500 at the absolute maximum) and I need something that will keep running and be relatively hassle-free for 3 more years.
There's this one-owner 2006 Honda CR-V near me with decent enough maintenance records for $5000. I'll go test drive it and have it inspected this Monday. However, it is nearing 200k miles (195k currently). Do you think this would be a good purchase for me?

2 Comments
2024/04/26
16:38 UTC

1

Toyota dealership price deal

I am from southern ontario,Canada and I managed to get a discount of 850$ on a new 2024 rav4 xle. Do you guys think its a good deal?? Also the car only comes with winter and carpet mats.No cargo liner or any other accessories. Should i go for it?

2 Comments
2024/04/26
16:33 UTC

1

Trading my car in? Clueless car owner here

Hi, y’all! I drive a 2018 Toyota Corolla SE. I’ve had it since Dec 2017 and my parents bought it for me (I was 16 then) w/ no miles on it (pretty sure it was new). It’s got 70,000 mi on it as of a few days ago. It got me thinking, would it be smart to trade it in? I read online it may be good to do so before it hits 100k. My parents recently fully paid it off (2 months ago), and I’ve been getting some emails with example offers, persuading me to trade it in. The car’s in really great condition (no dents and just a few little scratches) and underwent all the necessary repairs it needed just a few months ago.

A little bit about me is that I’m 22 and about to be married in the fall (just courthouse, not an expensive, big wedding). I’m a sophomore, TX college student with a good credit score, and I depend financially on my parents and partner as I am disabled. I don’t work, but my partner does and he provides when my family can’t (my parents are older and have been having medical issues recently, so they can’t always give me money). He has his bachelor’s and makes good money but it’s not anything huge. My partner, his parents (who give him small amounts of $ when he really needs it), and my parents also have good credit scores.

So, should I trade my car in? I’m so sorry for the long post. I hope someone can give me a bit of advice, as I don’t know much about cars and car finances lol

EDIT: Don’t know if this helps or not, but I guess I should mention a few things I left out originally. My parents’ household income is around 80k per year. My partner’s parents’ is around 100k per year. My partner just got out of college 5 months ago and is expected to make around 50k this year, as he’s just getting settled into work (1st job with his newly obtained bachelor’s degree + doordash on the side). My partner and I have a cat and we rent an apartment together. Rent in Dallas for us is around $1,200 per month not including the internet and electricity bills we have to pay, which usually aren’t too expensive. Additionally, I’m expected to graduate in 2027 with both my bachelor’s and master’s in fine arts and teaching art, respectively (combined 5 year program).

2 Comments
2024/04/26
16:32 UTC

1

Should I sell?

Hey guys, really need some advice here. I’m currently upside down by about 8k on my current car loan. My mother in law is gifting us a paid of vehicle and I’m wondering if selling at a loss and taking out a personal loan to cover the difference might be worth it? I’d really like to eliminate my car payment and I’m thinking the payments on a much lower personal loan might be better? Are there any other options that might be better?

Really appreciate any advice!

8 Comments
2024/04/26
16:25 UTC

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