Hi, I am considering eight 2024 Camry hybrid this year. I am expecting a kid this year and because I can’t afford a SUV, I’m going with a large sedan. I have a hunch that when the new model (2025) comes to the market, the current may get cheaper. This may not be true because hybrids are always in demand. When do the 2025 models come in dealer lots? Do the dealers actually markdown current models? Does it happen with Toyota hybrids? Thanks in advance!

I'm buying my first brand new car through a dealership and am not sure what the market is like in terms of pricing. I'm in Utah and looking at the 2024 Honda Odyssey -- Touring or Elite trim level. I've read that 5% off MSRP is a good starting point on new cars, but I've also seen people say that these vans are going for MSRP. We are planning to finance through Honda since the rates are better than the local credit unions (excellent credit scores on our end). My spouse got pricing through one dealership through the Costco auto program and it seems to be within about $400 of what another dealer has posted online (online posted prices are $1000 under their stated MSRP). The dealers seem to have plenty in stock, so I'm not sure where to start. I'd like to negotiate but I don't love high pressure situations so it would also help me to know whether I'm making a solid offer or not. Thanks in advance!

Hey all you dealers and reps out there! I just brought home a 2021 Chevy Traverse High Country. Payed $33,500 before ttl. One owner. Squeaky clean carfax. Maintenance at dealer record ever 3 to 6 months. Chevy certified pre-owned.

How did I do? Was there more haggle room? Dfw area.

I am in a really tough situation right now and could really use some advice. Please no mean comments I’ve been highly stressed over what to do. I just want to make the best choice out of a shitty situation as possible.

I bought a 2018 Hyundai Elantra in 01/2021 that had been running just fine up until 2 weeks ago. I let my younger brother change my oil about a month ago and it turns out that he did not secure the drain plug properly. I took it to a mechanic and they said the drain plug was missing and that oil leaked out and locked the engine. They quoted me $7,000 for the repairs but said they didn’t think that it was worth fixing. I took it to another mechanic for a second opinion and he came to the same conclusion, and quoted me $6,500. I do not have the money to fix it. I also still owe $10,000 on my car through Capital One due to a very high interest rate with a monthly payment of $320. To make matters worse, my credit is not great- 592. It was much higher up until a few months ago when a collections account from an old hospital bill was added and drastically dropped my score.

I’ve been weighing all my options but I still feel unsure of what the best decision would be. I don’t have anyone to co-sign for me and I have about $2,500 to work with. For additional context I make 40k/year and just moved back home and don’t pay rent.

From what I understand, it doesn’t seem like rolling the loan over to finance or lease is an option with that much negative equity. I’ve been looking at cash cars on Facebook marketplace but the prices are high for the value and it’s risky. Going without a car is NOT an option. I am now having to share a car with another family member and get rides from a gracious coworker but I cant continue doing that forever. I have read credit unions are a good option, I have Navy Federal, but I’m not sure the best way to go about using them.

Please help!!

I moved to the US when I was 20, and had to finance a car with no co-signer or credit history. My current loan has an APR of 24.99% through Westlake Financial (don’t recommend) and I still owe 15k on it after paying it off for two years. Monthly payment is around 508$.

Lately, it has not been driving great. I fear it needs a new transmission, which I cannot afford. The car is a 2010 Nissan 370z, and is only really worth 9000$, 7000$ ish wholesale. That leaves me 6-8k upside down. How should I tackle this issue?

I could start making principal payments, although I wish not to give them another dollar, and pay it off faster. But the value of my car is steadily decreasing, and it’s mechanical soundness is deteriorating faster than I can afford to pay it off.

Should I roll the negative equity into a newer used vehicle? Should I make principal payments and hope my car doesn’t fail? Should I bury it in a lease?

I’m 22 years old. I make about 48k a year. I only have 2k to put down. My credit score is around 770, although it means next to nothing considering it only goes back 2 years.

Please help…

My income makes me ineligible the federal EV tax credit, but my understanding is leasing still allows me to take advantage of the credit.

Is leasing the right option for me?

Are there car brands that will take the $7500 off of the final acquisition cost of the vehicle, if I decide to buy the car out after the lease?

Hello all! As the title states i need help valuing my 2013 Ford Escape. It is a titanium AWD with i believe the 2.0L (ecoboost). It has roughly 140k miles with a transmission rebuilt at 96k miles. Some of the options include:navigation, heated leather seats, alloy wheels, back up cam,parking sensors, parking assist. Recently passed inspection and tires have maybe 10k highway miles on them(unsure on depth will edit when i find out). The undercarriage does have some significant rust. I have about 95% of work done on car documented, mostly done by a dealership. There is a very small dent on pannel behind passenger door. On front bumper passenger side there are some scrapes that i believe can be buffed out. I live in north eastern US if that matters, also i am not in a rush to sell the car so im willing to be patient to get the best deal. Any input would be much appreciates

Hello everyone not sure if this is the right place for my question but here it goes. I would like to trade in a 16’ chevy malibu with 83k miles. I owe 9k and on kbb it’s valued at 7k. The tags expired last May. I was wondering if I could still trade it in and get a more reliable car lol. I am from California if that helps. Thanks !

Hey guys,

I live in Australia for reference. I have had an interview with a prestigious car brand as a new car sales executive. They want me for the job which is great! I have roughly 3 years experience in sales and 2 of which being in 4x4 accessories.

In the interview I was told I would receive a salary and commissions off the bat. I have since seen that my offer is as follows:

• 44,000 inclusive of super, commissions only after being signed and approved for comms. That’s it. No commission structure explained, and also was told I’d get atleast 50k base.

What is the average “salary” portion of pay packages in car sales? Is this an extremely bad offer? Currently on 70k and some average commissions where I’m at now, was hoping for an increase in pay, not a down grade.

Any info would be highly appreciated! Thanks guys.

Fidelity Platinum Warranty- good deal? gotchas?

Why should I buy the Fidelity Platinum over a Honda 8yr/120k mile warranty? Vehicle is a new Honda Ridgeline RTL. The dealer did not offer the Honda warranty, only Fidelity 3rd party with details hand written on the brochure. Aside from the price, shouldn't the terms of the warranty (years/mileage) be standard?

The Fidelity warranty almost seems to good to be true (except the price). What's the catch?

$3000 price 13 yrs/156,000 miles $100 deductible

Long story short, looking at VW ID4. Found a dealership with good price on the car but not filing for the $4k used EV credit. Found a second dealership with 3 ID4’s (all the same price), but price is higher but they are filing $4k used ev credit. Cars are below with deals. How should I go about making dealership 2 match dealership 1? All 4 vehicles are 2021 ID4 Pro S with 22k miles. Literally identical cars including trim levels. Both dealerships within 50 miles of each other.

Dealer 1: vehicle is $21,796. Offering $15k on trade. After tax title fees and all they want $9117.55 out of pocket. This is great but no $4k ev credit.

Dealer 2: vehicle is $24,890. Offering $13,750 on trade. Giving me $4000 used ev credit rebate. After tax title fees and everything they want $9586.47 (so without ev credit they would really want $13,586.47)

Am I ridiculous to ask the second dealership to compete with the first considering they’re like $4400 apart? All 4 cars have been sitting for over 30 days and if dealership 1 would just file the used ev credit I would’ve already gotten it by now. What do you guys recommend?

Today I interviewed at a Toyota dealership and killed the interview. That said I imagine I’ll get offered a salesman job tomorrow. I’m worried about the pay scale. They told me I must sell 0 cars minimum a month.

I would make $100 commission each car up until 12. If I sell 12-15 I get 125 a car. If I sell 20 I get 200 a car. If I sell 25 I get 250 a car and that’s the cap but no cap on amount of sales.

Is this reasonable? I imagined it’d be percentage based.

Base salary-2k a month

I was told I’d get one day off a week and I’d be looking at 60-70 hours a week.

Hi experts! I am new to the subreddit so thanks in advance for your attention!

I have a question: is now impossible to negotiate when buying new Subaru cars in Canada?

The dealer in my area provided me an OTD quote for 2024 Subaru forester Touring of 44K (MSRP is $36,895). I asked if there is any room for negotiation and basically I got a hard NO.

I searched around and looks like many people were able to get a lower price, to be fair most of them bought cars before 2024 and are in the USA so idk if it’s an inventory issue.

Can you help me understand what my options are? My budget is 40K but I do like this car.

Thank you!

Can someone explain to me what the hell this 'dealer service fee' is? I'm seeing between $500 to $1000 and don't understand what this gets someone buying a car from a dealer who has this.

Thank you.

Im curious if I can go to my local bank or credit union ( I bank with the credit union) and get a small loan of less than 20k for a classic car? The car is in restored condition and wont be a daily driver.

Since classic cars appreciate in value I dont see why this wouldnt be impossible.

So I purchased a vehicle a little under a month ago and upon purchase got an extended warranty for $3600. Long story short the vehicle has major issues and after reading the fine print on the warranty I purchased I don’t even wanna go down that rabbit hole. Obviously wish I never got the warranty in the first place (continental USA). I found a perfect vehicle to replace this newly purchased bad one, just unsure how the refund would work. Warranty is fully refundable within 60 days (been about 26 days) says I need to send notarized cancellation form. (Continental warranty USA). If I trade in my vehicle tomorrow obviously my payoff going to get rolled over to the new vehicle, does anyone have any insight as to how the warranty cancellation gets refunded in this scenario? Thank you.

Considering purchasing a 2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro Midnight Black with 75,000 miles. The price is $33,000 before taxes and fees, $36,500 out-the-door. I'm located in the Pittsburgh, PA area, and I intend to pay cash. Is this a good deal, or is it overpriced?

Hello,

First time purchasing a car and I would appreciate a sanity check. I just got an offer of $24,831 OTD for a silver Honda Civic LX. Is this a reasonable deal? I'm in Georgia if that matters.

So I was told by a dealership that another dealership ran my credit, but never actually applied for financing for a 2024 GR86 Trueno. I was quoted 6% APR by the first dealership, and the second dealership (that told me that my financing was never submitted) gave me a higher quote. The second dealership said that some dealerships will give a false quote to get you in the door and then change the rates. Anyone have any insight on this?? Am I being bamboozled by the second dealership? Was I bamboozled by the first dealership? Why is buying a car so hard? Thanks for your time.

As the title states, I am trying to finance a 28k car with approximately 20k down payment, but without a license. It will be a car for myself and my long time partner but I am the one paying for it. Seeing that I had a DUI 10 years ago and need an ignition interlock installed before I get my license, what issues might I run into? From what I understand, my partner is willing to co-sign with me, and I can take him off after I have the interlock installed and my license/insurance reinstated. I am not at risk of having another DUI, I barely drink as it is and I will never have a drink before driving again. Credit score is 70x. Any help or advice is appreciated, this car has been a long time coming and we are nervous and very excited.

Hello, I am looking to purchase a 2014 Mazda 3 hatchback grand touring with 98k miles for $12,500. This is from a used car lot. When I asked about doing a pre purchase inspection before buying, the seller stated they would allow me to go to one of their guys (major red flag) or a Mazda dealer. They stated the reason is they had a customer that did a PPI at their own mechanic where the mechanic stole/transplanted parts from another vehicle. This seems like a lie to me. I opted to complete the PPI at the dealership of course, I have an appointment tomorrow. However, the seller stated they would drop the car off for me at the dealer which I also find suspicious. I plan on asking if they will allow me to take it alone.
Is anyone experience with these kind of methods? Is this normal? Do they want to drop it off so they can speak to/bribe someone at the dealer or is that crazy talk? I'm not sure if these are normal used car lot practices or if something is specifically wrong with this car they are hiding. Thanks in advance for your insight.

Hello, I am looking to sell my 2004 GMC Canyon Single Cab with 181000 miles on it. It has had the transmission replaced around 160,000 miles, and catalytic converter replaced at 175,000 miles. It has a dent in the front bumper, and a dent in the back bumper. The front blinkers do not work but all other lights do. I’ve seen the same year online for about $6000 but I’m not sure mine is worth that much with the two dents and no front blinkers. I’m from the south east United States if that helps. I tried using a few websites but cannot get accurate representation I feel. Thanks for the advice.

So, I bought a warranty. They dragged and dragged on processing it. It was a CPO Honda. They sold a “new” warranty with the In-service date as the purchase date on the VSA contract, not the original sale.

So, I come to find out my 8 yrs is 6 as it goes back to 2022, the real in-service date. If they changed the in-service date on the document and kept my signature on the edited one without my knowledge, is that fraud?

They ghosted me, said I should just be happy I got a good deal on the price, and all sorts of stuff including: “We’ve done all we have to for you.”

Now they finally want to do something because the Corp is involved. Why can’t people just admit their mistakes and make it right? I’m the biggest f up of all, but I try to at least make more than amends.

Hey guys. I am a new porter at a brand name dealership. It’s my second week on the job, I am also a college student. I was asked to move a sold car to our detailing location. My boss said he put both keys (one inside an envelope) and the other on top of the center console. I took the car to get gassed and dropped it off at detail only taking the envelope + gas card out. The second key is nowhere to be found and it seems like I’m about to spend my first paycheck on a key instead of my rent. Now I think my boss lost it because he lost another set of the same keys before I started. And I don’t remember ever touching the second set of keys. Not sure why he took them from the customer and gave them to me to begin with.

Overall, other than me having to listen to 5 people needing cars moved at a time and the hour drive out. Not a fun experience. Set up an interview for a sales position because I think I’d be better suited there. Thoughts? I have a key ring I got for the job to specifically avoid these situations entirely.

TLDR; new porter boss sent me with two keys for a sold car. Salesman only brought it back with 1. I never touched the second key nor do i even know if it was actually there. Just did what I was told. Should I pay for the key? I am human and I could have made a mistake but I am confident that i did not

I bought a used car in the 30th. The following Friday I went through a car wash and my tire fender came off, when I went back to the dealership the service guy looks at my car and said it looks like I was in a hit an run and pointed out a few things that looked like it. I told him I had just bought the car a week ago. Anyways he gives me an estimate and he said I can file a claim with my insurance. I looked back at my videos a day after I bought the car a noticed the marks he was suggesting looked like I was in a hit and run. What should I do? Would the dealership not have to pay for the repair since I just bought it?

Over the weekend, I bought a 2015 Honda Civic Si in Dallas, TX. It has a salvage title from South Carolina. I got it from a guy who flips cars. At first, I thought it would be a private party sale, but then he told me that the title was at his friend's dealer(Automotive Brokers Group), and under his friend's dealer name, and he didn't have the title in hand. He said they can register the car in my name and give me a "dealer tag" while I wait for the plates and title to arrive by mail. He also mentioned that because the title is from another state, I might not be able to register it myself, and they'll have to do it for me but if it was otherwise that they would give me the title. I know this statement is full of red flags and that I should have just walked away but the guy seemed trustworthy and I really like the car so I went ahead with the deal. Come Monday I came to the realization that what I did was incredibly sketchy so I called the Texas DMV and described the situation and they told me that it didn’t matter whether the title was from another state so as long as title and title transfer paper is signed by the owner. I’ll also have to submit a rebuilt statement which could by signed by them or me. Which I’ve known this because I’ve done it before. Knowing this I messaged the seller and stated that I was just want my title.

Once I called the seller and told him what the Texas DMV said, he was adamant that I have two options. One, I have to wait for them to find out if they can give me the title since it's from "out of state". If they can, then they'll provide the title. Option two, they have to register it for me and provide dealer tags. He said they can't simply give me the title. He mentioned that they'll have to submit the rebuilt statement, and that's how the "dealer works". At this point he seemed annoyed.

So far he’s been cooperative, answering calls and messages. I do have a bill of sale that we wrote up. I have screenshots and messages. I know where he lives and so on. I’m just sketched about the situation.

What options do I have? Do I keep demanding the title? Why do y’all think he’s so adamant about registering the car for me?

Hello,

I am attempting to buy my Audi's (through VW leasing) lease. I had gone to my Chase bank to do so after talking on the phone with an Audi Financial person who said they'd just need the bank to fax documents to them. So, at the bank, Chase is saying that they need the title (?) of the vehicle - but when I called Audi they said they refuse to transfer the title. I am left utterly confused by the process. I'd like to avoid going into the dealership if I could just buyout the lease through my bank.

TLDR - is anyone familiar with the process of buying out an Audi lease without going through a dealership i.e. Chase bank?

Fiancée and I have been leasing a 2021 Hyundai Kona N AWD we got on a great deal since the summer of 2021. Our lease ends in July of this year the dealer is offering us a buyout price that’s above (more expensive than) market value. When we approached another Hyundai dealer about buying out our lease, they are saying they can’t even give us what’s owed to break it.

If we buy the car and pay tax/fees, we’ll have negative equity and never sell it for what we got it for — we’d lose money.

Do we flip the lease now before it ends to the dealer willing to help us break even, buy the car at the end of the lease and hope for the best, or walk away and return it to the original dealer and pay the $400 disposition fee and whatever they require to fix a few scratches and some curb rash.