Hi all, we own a Mazda 2023 CX-5, 20,295 miles on it, in excellent condition. But we’re swamped with the car payments, husband’s dad steered us into getting a new car last year and we just can’t keep up with it now.

How would we go about trading it in? would it be a good idea to? We still owe about ~19k on it from its original price of 28k.

Is there any way we could just start over and finance a cheaper car? Who would we ask? Where should we go?

Hey all! So please bear with me so I can try to explain a condensed version here! 😬

I am a newly widowed mother of 3 who also takes care of my elderly and disabled parents. My husband passed away in July, but I’ve spent the last 2 years not working due to being a FT Caretaker. Once he passed, I’ve started back to work. I have my degree as a teacher so I’m able to sub in local districts and make enough for now. We also receive the SS Survivor Benefits monthly. So point being, my income hasn’t been on record long. Plus, my car broke down a month ago (already sold, no trade in option) so I haven’t been able to easily get back and forth to sub so there’s not a lot of that showing on paper. Potential is there though.

I, of course, have bad credit. I’d just recently got myself back up to 600 when I started the car search a month ago. So I was hopeful. HOWEVER I have a RIDICULOUS amount of student loan debt. It has previously been in deferment so it shows current, on time payments. That’s great and all…EXCEPT my DTI is insane. It appears as if I’m making these large student loan payments each month so lenders think I don’t have any income left for a car payment. Maybe I’m ignorant or missing something, but I’m not sure how to “fix” that.

I’ve been to multiple dealerships in the last few weeks. Big, little, just so many. EVERYONE has turned me down. Now initially I only had about $1-1500 for a down. I’ve been able to get up to about $2500 as of yesterday. But is an extra $1k even worth calling the places back to ask if that changes anything?

Because there are 6 people in my family, I was initially trying to find a 3rd SUV. I now know that is not a realistic request. So I wanted to try for a smaller SUV so there was at least more space. But I’m starting to wonder if that is even realistic.

Oh and I only have 1 co-signer option. She makes decent income but her credit is only around 590ish so she’s not really much help there.

My dad is back in ICU for the 3rd time in the last month we’ve been without a vehicle. I can’t work if I can’t get there. I NEED to make something happen. Somehow. But I’m losing hope and need advice. And a miracle. My husband took care of all our car needs so I’ve never had to do any of this. And I clearly am not doing well.

I’m on the verge of going to DriveTime because I know I can get something. But I also need something reliable and pretty sure with my luck DriveTime won’t give me that.

If you’ve made it this far, thank you for hanging in there with me. And please know that I need to fix my credit and figure out student loans and all of that wonderful stuff to be a good human in some people’s eyes. I’m trying. And desperately hanging on by my fingertips…

Yall give it to me straight. I was recently in a motor vehicle accident and my car was deemed a total loss. I wasn't planning on getting a new car anytime soon because I know how bad the market is right now, but because I NEED to buy a car now I have no other choice. I see buying a new car isn't a good idea if you don't already have a home? Why is that exactly? I'm being pressured by my parents to buy a new car and I'm not into the idea. I don't want a new car I'm only looking into used cars. Either a Toyota or a Honda given that they're the most reliable. The cars in my area range from 17k-25k and the miles on the car range from 9k-66k. I don't really put a lot of miles on my car my last car I barley put in 15k miles in three years of having it. I'm looking for a month car note less than $400 a month. Is that realistic for this time? I saw a corolla the other day at $20,000 and with 66 thousand miles. The whole buying process along with being in the accident have really emotionally wrecked me and I can't deal with another "are we leaving with a car today? insert fake laugh" anymore. Should I lower my standards for a car?

I have a friend moving to FL really soon, they’re in a very tough spot. Won’t have much money when they get there, but will absolutely need a car, they do have a job lined up though. Would there be any way for them to be able to get a car from a dealership? I’m sure they wouldn’t be able to get something from a franchise dealership, but would they be able to get anything when they arrive? Not sure what their credit score is, but don’t think it would be good.

Hey i know every one hates them, because I certainly did but I was fed up at the dealership I was top guy for about 6 years making 150+ and clearing 200k during covid years. I worked at a nissan store for 4 years prior to the infiniti store I left, I just got started in this world as I got my license a month ago and I had a great start 8 cars out all comission for me but I got extremely lucky by just hitting the phones running as I had a client list of every one I have sold about 590 names.. well I ran threw rhe list and got in contact with everyone for the most part on there but alot of them have just got into new leases and i missed em by a month or two and now Im strictly social Media ads but I need to be doing something myself I would love to be able to get off lease lists that Ironicly would hate calling when i was at the dealership due to the volume and walk in traffic we had.. but they are GOLD when its just you and no walk ins… any advice or direction on how to get leads that are 2-3 months out on there lease coming up??

In Canada, and this would be my first car (22F).

Going into a Kia dealership later this week to test drive a 2021 Kia Rio with 30k km on it. Currently it's listed at $18.3k CAD with a $250 incentive offered by the dealer for used cars. Not certified pre-owned, just used.

My mom is telling me to go in for the test drive, negotiate a price down, leave and make a decision, and come back in a few days if I really want the car to do paperwork etc. I'm inexperienced with negotiating car deals, and this dealership I'm visiting is quite far away from me (around 1 hour driving, I'm renting a car to go to this dealership for this car). I feel conflicted about if this is the correct approach, as I feel like I'm potentially losing negotiation power by leaving and then coming back asking for the negotiated price a few days later, as well as me having to make potentially three trips to the dealer for the test drive, paper signing, and picking up the car.

I've been searching for a car for a bit, and this one looked really promising, which is why I'm willing to travel a bit to check it out. In my mind, if I can get it for 19-19.5k out the door I'd be willing to pay for it on the spot. Not sure if this mentality would make me weaker for the negotiation process though.

I would appreciate any advice on how to approach this situation. TIA!

I'm currently looking at a Florida vehicle housed under an Autonation dealership. I was wondering if I could hire a shipping company of my choice to ship the vehicle from the Florida dealership to another AutoNation dealership in Georgia. If it is possible, would there be any other fees associated with that coming from the dealership? I'd be partially financing it if that makes a difference.

I need help with a purchase

So I bought a car last week and I felt very pressured into it. Is there anything I can do or is it too late? I bought it on 11/14. It hasn’t even been a week. Everything was paperless too and I don’t even have a physical copy of my contract as they said it would come in the mail and they do all that paperless now. Just ugh. I’m in Arizona by the way. Maricopa county. It was a used car dealership.

Basically what the title says. He was so great to work with and I’m just feeling grateful. Would that be considered strange?

I'm looking at a "new" truck with 900 miles on it. Truck has never been sold and was used as a demo. Assuming I can negotiate a good price along with an extended warranty is there any concern or additional things I should look out for with a demo car that has 900 miles on it?

Looking at a F250 4x4 diesel (stock) to pull a 2 horse slant about 2-4 hours/120 miles a week. 135k plus ~500 idle hours. I plan on getting an ppi. Anything specifically to look for before the ppi? Single owner. Decent maintenance records.

Currently using a 1/2 ton and it’s showing its age under the load.

Edit: all this to say this is my first oil burner and I’m a bit nervous. I’m looking for reliability long term but can’t afford new.

Is it worth getting the extended warranty ? I feel like the base warranty is great, and that i might just trow away 400-450 without getting much in return. What do you think ?

Car is hyundai venue 2025, preferred version.

Thanks

1 owner 5.0 Mustang for sale, 7 years old with 10,000 miles as of 10/31/24 according to the CARFAX report and paragraph description on its features on the Ford dealership website but the website also had the mileage listed at 18,400 under more details a few days ago and today it's at 19850.

I called and asked about it and the sales person checked and confirmed that the mileage is sitting at 19850.

He said he's not sure why the desc and CARFAX is so off and thinks someone in service may have entered the mileage wrong on CARFAX, or "it was driven around".

Are CARFAX mileage errors a common occurrence or can I assume someone beat the shit out of the car for 9K+ miles in the few weeks since 10/31?

Hey guys, i am new to buying cars and i am trying to get a base venue 2024/2025 for my mom i went to two dealers, they sounded very uninterested in selling me the car barley spoke to me and both of them told me the price on the internet calculates is the price you get we don’t make money on this car, is that true? Or is it just something all salesmen say? How much should i aim to negotiate of MSRP? Thanks!

I'm looking at a 2012 Honda Pilot with a pristine Carfax. One owner, local, no accidents, and extensive service history.

Just curious if it is concerning that the vehicle appears to be sold/traded-in to a Buick/GMC/Cadillac dealer and then two weeks later sold by another dealer (one of those no-hassle alternative dealers). Is it just that they don't service/sell Hondas?

After 1 month and the check engine light coming on/off twice I find out the coolant is severely low. Took it in for a service appointment yesterday and after an hour waiting they sent me on my way with a loaner. They haven't confirmed it or alluded to it but it seems pretty obvious this car has the intrusion issue leaking coolant in the engine and is likely fucked. It has 95k miles, I put 2k down and financed the remainder. I have a 3k/3mo warranty as well as a 2year/24mo warranty. What should I expect to happen here? They seemed to not give any sort of timeline on getting it looked at lol

Does anyone have any suggestions? I live in SD and the car is in tip-top condition

In the market for a new two row SUV, and have seen that there are significant discounts on 2024 Rogues (Platinum Trim + Platinum Package). Within my area, I see about 20 in that trim and package ranging between 33k-39k.

What would be a realistic number to aim for? Is it feasible to go into a dealer and ask if they're willing to do 33/34k based on online listings alone?

Thanks in advance.

In the DMV area, I put a deposit down on a 2025 RAV4 Hybrid that's currently in production. I've done research on how I should react if I walk into a dealer cold, but with everything ironed out from a pricing perspective, is there anything I should do differently?

I'm asking to test drive beforehand since I've only driven the 2024 model before, but I don't foresee any major issues. Assuming I go straight to the finance office after, what do I look out for?

I'm planning on trading in a car and bringing multiple quotes on the trade-in before, plus a down payment and financing the rest, about 20k. Will look to get pre-approved on a loan beforehand so I have an interest rate to play with

LEASE A 2024 BRONCO SPORT BIG BEND FOR $149 B/W + GST

AMVIC licensed dealer. STK#1209. APR-OAC. Lease a 2024 Ford Bronco Sport Big Bend on a Tricor open lease for $149 bi-weekly + gst for 24 months at a rate of 7.24% APR-OAC with $1,000 down payment. ACQ=$41,290. LEV=$30,000. COB=$4,596.

Calculations are based on 20,000 km of driving per year. See the dealer for the full list of eligible vehicles. Vehicles depicted may not be exactly as show

Hi I’m a college student looking to buy his first car have a couple in mind that are 2024 and am wondering if I should wait for 2025 or would it even be worth waiting.

Toyota Prius Le Toyota Corolla le Nissan Sentra sr Hyundai Elantra sel Are my top choices

I bought a 2021 car in Florida and financed it. They gave me my license plate that day only with all the documents (applications for title transfer etc). It's been more than 30 days. I don't see any car registration document or title document. On FLHSMV website, the lien information is on the VIN correctly.

Should I be expecting any more documents from the dealership, specifically registration?

I have a Motor Vehicle Title Reassignment Supplement document. So far I understand in Florida, the title is transferred electronically and I need to go to DMV if I need a paper copy. But what about registration?

Can someone please clear this for me? I'm a first time buyer.

I’m looking to buy a new car soon. The car I want is listed on the website as $31,000. Would it be crazy if I were to offer the salesperson $28,000. Im not sure what the appropriate amount to expect is. Also I would be fine if the salesperson would meet me halfway between the two numbers but I just want to know if 28k is a ridiculous price to start with. Thanks in advance.

I've been looking at trading in my vehicle for a 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, but I'm also not in a rush to trade-in if I don't get the right price/payment I want. I do know that these cars/trim level have a MSRP between $50-60k, but I'm hoping to get one for at least for $40k. I saw one listed in my town for $46,360 (MSRP: $55k), but another one about an hour from my town is listed for $42,850 (MSRP: 50.2k). Can I negotiate the $46k down more, or will most dealerships give me push back? I know it's towards the end of the year/month when they're pushing incentives to get the old stuff off their lot, but I'm not sure how desperate dealers will get to be able to let go a $55k car discounted 15k. They also have a leasing discount of 2k that I'm not sure if I should take advantage of or not.

(P.S: I'm just a girl and never had to buy a car on my own, so I'm a bit nervous to negotiate. If anyone has tips on starting to negotiate and not backing down would be great too!)

Id get it inspected. Clean title and no accidents. It’s really clean cosmetically.

I only need it for 2 or 3 years and only drive 10,000 or 15,000 miles a year. So only need around 40k miles out of it.

Interior - https://i.ibb.co/FxTM3rZ/IMG-3543.jpg

Exterior - https://i.ibb.co/MZFLk2d/IMG-3542.jpg

Looking to buy a 2010s Subaru Forester that the dealership put a new(er) engine in. They offer a service plan that covers major items like engine, transmission, drive axles, etc., external components like light bulbs, alternators, AC compressors, fuel pumps, power steering pumps, etc., and highly used items like door locks, window motors, switches, etc.

I don't have the full service plan text yet, and the pricing detailed online is a bit vague and hard to decipher, "3 month/3000 miles to 30 months/30000 miles starting at $799 or $13 a month." IDK how something can be 799 bucks or 13 a month... Will clarify that at the dealership.

But this seems to be more than the usual oil change and tire rotations service plans I see most folks talking about. Seems like it could bring a good amount of peace of mind with the engine replacement and everything, so something worth considering at least?

Im looking to buy a Monte Carlo SS 2002. The car has a little 151000 miles, should I still purchase?

Hi folks!

Sorry if its a dumb question! I am in process of leasing a car and created an account on Credit Karma. It shows my Transunion and Equifax as 700. Can I use these when giving info for leasing?

Currently in the process of buying a truck. I went to the dealership to look at a few of the same model, and ended up putting down a deposit for one that was in the shop getting worked on (having an expensive repair done that typically happens around 100k. The truck has slightly lower miles and it was exactly what I wanted, so I put down a deposit considering I wouldn't have to deal with that headache on my own dime.)

I was told it would be 3 days last Tuesday until it was ready to pick up. My saleswoman has been beating around the bush and very hard to get ahold of. Friday night rolled around and I asked if it would be ready Saturday. I was told "not sure, check back Monday". Checked back yesterday, and was told "check back tomorrow morning". Checked back this morning, and was told "with customers, I'll get back there in a bit" truck is a 15 second walk away but alright. I don't hear anything for like 5 hours so I follow up about 30 minutes ago where I'm told "finding out now" followed by a "trying to get an estimate. You did purchase a truck in pieces.... and they're trying to make it whole again"

Does this seem very passive aggressive and rude? I just want an actual ETA as I live about 2 and a half hours away. I'm about to call the dealership to request a new salesperson to deal with, but wanted your opinions first.

I found a deal on a used 2013 Corolla with 15k miles on it. I took it for a pre sale inspection and the car is mint other than the tires are from 2012. I tried to talk to the dealer about this and the discussion was a little heated. He said age doesn't matter but the mechanic was pretty sure they could blow out at any time. The dealer will be inspecting the car tomorrow but I am afraid of the tires blowing out on the drive home with it. Everything I have read says that 10yr old plus tires are bad. How can I talk to the dealer better? or express my concerns? They have a good reputation in the area but he is convinced I shouldn't have a problem getting the vehicle home. I live an hour away. Thank you for any help.