Is that anything to be concerned about? Is the repossession showing up after the auto sale just the DMV being slow to update the title?
The dates are -
12/9 - vehicle offered for sale
12/18 - vehicle sold at auction
12/26 - title updated, vehicle repossessed
2/1 - vehicle offered for sale
Would there be any reason to think that the seller (a small lot with mixed reviews) might not actually have the title or anything else I should look out for?

Since it looks like the current administration intends on eventually doing away with the tax credit for EVs, how will that work for sales in the year before whenever it ends up happening? Specifically, what happens if a buyer transfers the credit to a dealership to receive a point-of-sale discount, and then the dealership can't even use it the following year? Is there any protection against something like that happening?

Not a car salesman, just curious about the process.

Bought a 2019 mdx with 84K miles. Came with a 6 month Acura care warranty. They offered 2 year 100K extended warranty for $2000, got them down to $1500 but I still declined - seemed expensive for it? Plus the two years starts from purchase date NOT after the six month one expires. So it’s really 1.5 years

Also offered allstate 5 year for 4375. But at that price it would just make sense to buy newer car with less miles and factory warranty.

Wanted to get a sense if I am being unreasonable.

Bought a new car and a dent was discovered during the detailing, which was after I signed the paperwork. Sales said no problem, they’ll send it down the road for repairs, gave me a loaner and pick up in a week.

Two questions:

Am I wrong to be disappointed that the “down the road” repair shop was 80 miles away, roundtrip and that they drove my car? I live in a large metroplex so there is no lack of repair shops between the dealership.

Is it unreasonable to ask for the work order from the shop? The sales guy is ignoring my request.

Hey All,

I am shopping for a vehicle, mostly on marketplace, and would prefer private sale to save on taxes. That said, I have $40k in Amex high yield savings. I do not want to take it out and have it sitting around or even in low yield as, I am waiting to find a deal (not desperate for a car). How do I go about getting $40k quickly transferred with no/minimal fees to a seller, instead of waiting a week for a cashiers check (which also frightens me because it is not secure)?

While I do have a savings account with chase - 20 dollars in it, I do not otherwise bank with any brick and mortar bank.

I want to buy a Mazda cx5 premium plus and obviously want a cheaper option.

I see a blue 2024 new Mazda cx5 listed at msrp of $36500, destination fee of $1420, cargo net of $60 and floor mats of $170 totaling $38150.

The white 2025 model is listed at msrp of $35000, destination fee of $1420, paint charge of $565 roadside assistance of $90 totaling $37,305.

I would think the older model would be at a lower price since it’s now 2025. I really want the 2024 because it’s a cute blue.

Is this a standard normal price? I don’t know how to negotiate but would like to knock off $1500 from either vehicle. I’ve been approved from a credit union but would still like to negotiate a lower price from the dealer. How do I go about that?

This is my first time purchasing a new vehicle, I was considering purchasing a 2024 cpo priced at $31k. Any advice would help.

Hello, I recently traded in my 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5S Sedan when buying a new car. The dealership gave me $2600 for it, but when I checked the Carfax wholesale price estimate, it was $3,600. And Carvana's estimate was $2700. Now I’m wondering—did I get a fair deal, or did I sell it for too little?

• Mileage: 81,000 miles
• Accident History: 1 reported accident
• MPG: Around 16 MPG
• Owners: 2

Would love to hear your thoughts! Thanks.

I was quoted $30,500 out the door for a 2025 Civic Hatchback Sport (MSRP $27,950, local tax 9.5%). Is this a fair deal, or should I shop around? It’s my first car purchase, and I plan on pretty much keeping it till it dies.

I’m new to financing a car and two sales people are telling me that the car is already mine and that I signed a contract because of the car loan but I haven’t paid a down payment or put insurance on it, I told him that I wasn’t sure if I was getting the car.

Not sure if this is the right sub but trying to get a sanity check on if I'm being stupid. For context I currently have a 2022 Tacoma with 40k miles on, that I owe $32k on. Wanting to trade it in for a 2018 Silverado with 130k miles on it for $24.5k. Dealership is willing to give me $32k for the Tacoma and I would finance the Silverado for $24.5k. My end goal is to ultimately get a cheaper vehicle and pay it off quicker, so I can save more money over the next 5 years. Is this a decent decision?

I’ve run into something recently that is very annoying, that tells me there are market issues. Whenever I pull onto a major brand dealer’s lot, I am descended upon by staff working diligently and aggressively to “get me to trade or sell that fine vehicle.” Doesn’t seem to matter that I’m at the parts department or somewhere else nowhere near the sales or used lot. I’m not even in anything especially rare or desirable - just a straight SUV or pickup. I’m in the automotive field where I do modifications and repairs, so I do go to more than one dealer and brand, but this seems to be very common behavior. What’s going on? If it were at a few dealers, I’d just think it was annoying sales technique, but it’s happening everywhere.

Dealer refused so I added $500 and they still said no so I walked. Was this overboard? I haven't bought a car since 2010 but I just assumed trying to get a deal was normal.

Sales Mgr even asked me why I didn't call ahead to find out if they'd negotiate. Told her I did but they said "come in because presence is power".

(2022 Nissan Frontier SV, 3mo on lot)

Hello! In late 2023 I bought a Subaru Impreza from a secondhand dealership in Colorado. I have a copy of the CarFax report printed during my pre-purchase inspection where it confirms the car's title as clear. I distinctly remember talking to my mechanic about this being questionable (the car has minor hail damage, which to my knowledge means it is automatically totaled as per CO law) and they assured me that the dealer should be in hot water for lying about the title information, so I bought the car! Had no issues with insurance or loan applications.

Fast forward about a year and a half and I'm renewing my registration. Not sure why but I researched the VIN and found an auction listing for my car dated about three months prior to my purchase. Doesn't list the buyer, but I would assume this is a record of the used dealership buying the vehicle before selling it to me. The images are definitely of my car (can tell from the cute little hail spots), and the title at the time of sale is listed as "CO - Public - Salvage Title" with the loss and primary damage fields indicating "Hail." Color me confused. This is not my area of expertise, but red flags are flying for me.

I saw some similar posts encouraging people to research the car on an NMVTIS database so I found Bumper.com. The explicit title records are hidden behind another paywall, but I can see the sale listing from my time of purchase with the title listed as Clear. However, there are also three different salvage reports listed from before my purchase. I have a buddy who has experience with these issues but waiting to hear back from him. Wondering if anyone can confirm or deny my weird feeling about this dealer, and what next steps I should take to investigate this issue further?

How accurate are online payment calculators? Got quoted payments for a vehicle and the math just isn’t matching to me, so checked multiple calculators and it’s significantly lower than what the dealership offered despite the same variables. Made sure total cost, rate, negative equity, downpayment and length of term were all in there.

Hey guys so I need help. I’m buying a model y. The 1st model y didn’t qualify for the $4000 tax credit. So my trade in on the paperwork work was $3000 plus $1000 down total $4000. That deal fell through due the car they sold me was already sold to someone else. Mind you we completed everything before they noticed. This Tesla they have for me now does qualify for the tax credit, but now my trades in goes to $1 am the total down they have is $5000 $4000 for the tax credit and $1000 down. Now I’m no dummy but that means they want my car for $1.

Additional information: car price is $24889 before tax credit and down payment. There is a $1200 pre delivery fee. $1200 gap and $1500 wheel warranty I didn’t ask for. My math is showing I should be getting this car for right under $20k without the $3000 trade in.

I bought a used car (in full, paid cash) late last year from a dealership. I love our of state from where I would register the car, and the dealership is a different state from either of these 2.

I was told by the dealership that the car would automatically be registered. This was not true. The DMV/MVD requires a VIN inspection to register, and I was not able to get that done until this month for various reasons (out of the country, trying to organize between my local PD and the DMV/MVD to do the inspection, not having access to my car for a while). Now that the car is finally ready to be fully registered, the DMV/MVD called me and let me know that a couple months ago the dealership requested them to return the title.

So now the dealership has the title so I'm unable to register currently. Why did they do that? What can I expect going forward? Do I just need to contact them and let them know the registration is finally ready to be processed so they can send the title back?

Hey guys, I’m planning to buy a used vehicle soon. I’ve gone through other posts about PPIs and the most common advice I see is, taking a mechanic I trust, to the vehicle inspection.

Now my issue is that this will be my first time buying a vehicle here in Ontario, so I don’t really know any auto mechanic personally. And to clarify, at the moment, I don’t know anyone here personally who owns a vehicle, who could suggest me a trusted mechanic. I asked the owner (private) if I can get someone to take a look at the car and they said no problem. The carfax seems to be okayish but I want to get it inspected, just to be on the safe side.

1. How do I get a auto mechanic/technician to help me with this.
2. How much does an inspection cost on avg.
3. Do I take the technician with me or do we (me n owner) take the vehicle to the store?
4. If anyone has any contact feel free to suggest, p.s- the purchase will be in Hamilton

Thanks in advance

Hey Reddit, I totaled my truck around a month ago and have finally found a car i am going to buy, I have already applied for the loan and have been approved but am waiting for my loan officer to come back into office on monday to finish things up, my dad has offered to pay cash for the car so i can pick it up tomorrow and then i can pay him back when the loan goes through. is there any issues with this as i have applied for a used car loan? wondering if it’s better if i wait to buy it “myself” or if i can just out the title and everything in my name and be good? all help is appreciated!

recently i went through some car troubles and what i thought was gonna be a $500 fix quickly turned into a potential $6000 repair job. i still have $7800 to pay off on my car loan and considering its a ten year old car that would maybe sell for $7500 in good condition, i don’t feel its worth it to put that much work into it. that being said, after i sell my car back to the dealership, im looking to get around $3500 back, leaving me with $4300 left on my loan/carrying forward into a new loan. i am just looking into leasing for the first time and im quite interested. here are some questions that i had on that side of things

-are all potential repairs (not caused by an accident) covered under the lease and payed for by the dealership? -i’m potentially looking at vw, nissan, or buick, should i continue looking here or look else where? -i do commute to work and think a 15,000 mile per year agreement would be cutting it close, are 20,000 or 25,000 mile agreements ever an option? -once my lease is up i know i have the option to buy the car out right, if i chose to keep the car, do my monthly payments continue as normal as if im paying a normal car loan?

a couple of side notes are that my current loan is $400 a month, i pay $200 for car insurance, and spend quite a bit on gas since my old car takes premium. i live comfortably with what i was paying but am very open to leasing/buying a much less expensive car.

i apologize in advance if any of the questions are stupid but i would appreciate any help or advice! im going to test drive some cars tomorrow but have been trying my best, as someone who knows nothing about cars or money, to at least get somewhat of an idea of what to expect!

I am looking to lease a 2025 Elantra in Canada in the next couple of months, but was waiting a bit to save some money without having some extra payments. I was also thinking of waiting to see if there are any end of quarter deals around March.

Based on the new imposed tariffs, would it be more beneficial to go into a lease agreement before Monday (when tariffs are imposed) or wait a couple of months for things to settle down? Which one would be more logical at this point?

Thank you, and sorry if the answer to my question is an obvious one. I am quite new to this stuff.

I live in SF Bay Area. If I do a search for new cars of a specific brand in 100-mile radius, I find that BMW and Mercedes inventories are 6-7x compared to Lexus inventory. In most local Lexus dealers, 60%+ inventory is marked as 'inbound' or 'pending sale'.

What's going on?

Hello I recently started looking into housing this year & I could get approved for alot more if I sold one of my cars.

I like having three cars and can afford it but can afford much more house if i downsized to two. I have a 2024 2500 rebel cummins & a 2024 ram classic tradesman. on the tradesman I added carplay/nav Led lights premium wheels and a bed cover & running boards. I also have a 2012 3LT vette around 65k miles that i don’t plan to sell though

What can I expect to see values of these increase to? As I use my 1500 as a daily & my 2500 to tow my camper, I was thinking to trade them both in and get a 2013-2018 ram limited 3500 dually. Would that make sense financially?

I would probably have 10-20k down and I am already pretty much at equity. (1k-3k range give or take)

Edit to add: I dont daily a car as my work is on a lease road that has about 13 miles of rough road.

Second edit to add: ram 1500 is 4WD crew cab and v8 also i know no one knows for sure, im just curious to everyones educated guesses

I purchased an extended warranty from IA (Industrial Alliance) for my vehicle, but unfortunately, due to unforeseen circumstances, I can no longer keep the car. I’m considering selling or trading it in and would like to cancel the warranty to avoid unnecessary costs.

Has anyone successfully canceled an IA extended warranty before? What reason did you use, and what’s the best way to approach them to ensure they approve the cancellation? Any advice on how to get the refund applied to my loan (if possible) would be greatly appreciated!

Now Im a bit familiar in this industry, I want to be an independent auto broker, if anyone is on the similar boat can you share your experience of how you started and what are the best practices to keep yourself motivated? How do you get your lead and what are the ways you partnership with dealer out there?

Has anyone (out of state) used Escapees Mail Service to obtain a TX drivers license and/or for car registration purposes?

Have an associate doing this and it seems complicated as they live in a state with nearly double the auto sales tax than Texas but also spend about 40% of their time in Texas for business, so they feel most comfortable using Texas over the other sales tax friendly states out there.

Hi guys, I recently bought a 30 year old vehicle that was a really good deal and seems it might have been too good to be true.

The seller DID inform me he title skipped, but sent me pictures of the title not filled out on his end, so I had no complaints taking the vehicle. Turns out, when I received the vehicle(which came from new mexico) I realized the title had been signed for buyer and seller already and he never got it registered. I am in Texas, and I fear my only shot at getting a proper title for this car is to get a bonded. The vehicle has insurance on it, a made bill of sale from the guy who sold me the vehicle and inspection paperwork.

I've asked a few people, and since there are two lines for buyer, I was told to sign it, and go to DMV and tell them about what happened. My question is, am I royally f'd and should just apply for a bonded title? or should I attempt to go to the dmv and get it resolved.

Any advice at all is appreciate, hoping to get it taken care of, as I would love to start driving the vehicle.

found listing on carfax from a dealer for a 2013 fit with 148k miles for $8k, looks reliable but is that a decent price? how would i go about talking them down?

Going to try to be efficient here; learned that leaving with the keys doesn't mean the deal is done and it's got me freaking out.

• Last week filled out dealerships official credit application. I thought I would be denied idk and I didn't know they pulled your credit more than once.
• 99.99% credit utilization (4 maxed out unsecured credit cards) 580 vantage, 620 FICO, never missed any payments, credit age almost 3 years old! But I've been carrying the balances for a while just unable to make a dent. Only switched from part time to full time hours 5 ish months ago.
• They say I'm approved, but for 3k down. Say no can do. Just couldn't convince myself to empty my pockets.
• Couple more days pass they say okay you're approved to do 1k down. $20k used lexus.
• Go to dealership last night, leave with the keys and car. Get a call today, finance director (because the finance manager passed my paperwork to the director last night instead of doing it themselves), leaves a voicemail saying they're trying to finalize with a credit union who tends to be more lenient with auto loans but when they tried to pull my credit it was frozen. I just checked my equifax, transunion and Experian and my transunion was indeed frozen, unfroze it. Called back no answer left voicemail saying I unfroze my credit. But their original 3 pulls knocked my score down 28 points earlier this week so idk.

So... what are the odds they aren't able to fully finalize and I have to bring the car back because good god I don't want to do that... the only adult I know who would be available to co-sign does not want to at all but everyone knows I have this car now, friends and coworkers and I just want to be done and know the sale is final.

When people say, get pre approved by your own lender choice/s, then go shopping, DO THAT do not be me!

I have a very long list of questions and concerns about the following, and I’m hoping someone can help with some or all…

1. Here is the ultimate goal. Get my daughter-in-law a car
2. And the only way on my end to get this done currently, is financing.

2-a And I really want her (and me where needed) on all documents, for many reasons. (I realize cosigning can cause problems).

Ok, so all that said… here are the issues-

• She’s in MS, I’m in AL. I cannot travel there currently. This needs to be all digital, for me. She can visit the dealer/lot.

She still has her AL DL. She has been in MS for a year. Yes we know she should have changed DL’s. Fact remains.

She has poor credit and very little money. I have good credit, and a little money.

I want to work with a small lot, we both apply for full financing.

OK so… We like a car (due diligence completed best I can)…. Get approved to be financed it for.

Car:

Will the lot be ok with this? I know they want to sell cars, and my history will show I’m perfectly reliable, will her bad credit and lack of income, not to mention she will be explaining to them she will be the primary, out in the county, with THEIR car… Will it balance out to an approval? (any monthly payment options and rates are fine for now, will fix it later, just got to get her mobile).

Ok…so we get approved and have a car….

Ok, so then what…….

Insurance:

To get the car off the lot, she will need full coverage insurance. How will that work? Does she complete the sale, then pull up an app and buy it, then show them the phone? To get approved for said insurance, will her having an AL DL, and a MS address a problem. Other problem, probably… I don’t think she can pull off a proof of residency. (more problems with than next paragraph).

Tag:

She has the car, and the insurance. How to get the tag. Lack of proof of residence is deal breaker, correct? Any non-car-sub tips how she can pull this off? She lives with her real dad out in the middle of nowhere county. No current job. She does have Medicaid for that address? That help? Quite sure that is ALL the official or otherwise mail-related-to-her, at that location. No lease, not utility, etc.

Owe someone a beer if they can help me crack this. The gist is she NEEDS help, in a big way. And I don’t have any other current better ideas. So I’m sticking with this one until proven impossible. I am planning to call a couple dealers and ask all these questions, but I checked up thinking I could learn a little more first and not sound so dumb.

Thanks to help tips.