Trying to buy a 24 Subaru ascent touring today but they need to get it from another dealership. The Subaru 2.9% apr deal expires today. They have been telling me since last week they’d have the car, but don’t seem to yet. Anyone have any ideas for finding out whether Subaru will extend the promo rate? I’ve asked the sales person and they say “probably” but not sure I want to rely on that.

I have to mention the Lease buy out amount is consistently going down in my portal , it's not Fixed

An out of state dealer told me they had the car I wanted. I bought the car from them. When it was delivered it was not the car I wanted, but the VIN number matched the paperwork. So, the salesman sold me the wrong car intentially. What actions can I take to correct this?

Hi!

We are nearing the end of our lease (in 3 months) on our 2022 Jeep Wrangler. The balance left on the lease is $4148 but the car is worth $32k according to KBB.

Is there anything I can do to take advantage of this equity before the lease ends?

Can I sell the car and get the difference? How can I sell the car if I lease it?

Thanks!!

I sold my vehicle 8 days ago I was short like $100 because they didn't tell me to include it in the check. The supervisor wanted the deal done, so signed off.

They have the car and the loan is due in 5 days. They got the 10 day payoff amount like 4 days before it was sold so most likely they will need to pay MORE on it.

They haven't reached out to me but I'm worried cause contact says I must pay full amount listed within 7 days or they can cancel the sell but no one asked me to pay anything extra and they already took the car.

Should I wait more because of the holiday? Any chance they can back out 2 days before loan due?

I work/sell at a busy used car store. We close at 6 on Saturdays and a couple with 2 kids walk in at 5:50 and the husband says they want to test drive a couple cars. Curious as to how other sales people handle this situation.

I traded in my car for another car. Did a cash transaction including paying off the negative equity to dealership in cash. No financing involved. It's been 6 days now (not counting Thanksgiving). The lender is saying they haven't received the payoff but my car is listed in their website for sale. Is this legal? How will they transfer the car to a new buyer if the lien has not been released from the lender?

So, I am looking to purchase a new or pre-owned vehicle from a dealership and am wondering what factors to consider that would make the dealership more likely to give me the best price.

Using the auto trader feature you can track the price of the car and they usually go down in increments about every two weeks. After how many days is the dealership pressured to sell the car before they have to send it back to auction? 30/60/90 days?

Also, what are other factors to consider,? I have heard buying at the end of the month is typically when dealerships are more willing to reduce a car even more given they have to move X amounts of units per month.

I'm looking at applying for a sales job and I could either apply to a dealership 4 minutes away from my house in a small town being one of only 2 dealerships in town or a city 30 minutes away that has a lot of dealerships but also a lot more customers. Which is the smarter choice? The town has about 20k people. The city about 100k.

Hi! I'm selling a vehicle and agreed to sell it to a private party buyer for less than I should have. The buyer said they'd be back the following week to complete the transaction.

In the mean time, someone from a dealer contacted me and said they'd pay more if I can bring it to them to look it over.

Is this a dealer tactic to get me there and then offer less? Due to my situation it will be a lot of trouble to get the vehicle to them. Is it out of the norm for a dealer to come to you to buy?

I've asked the private party buyer to come up in price, but they want to continue at the originally agreed on price.

Thank you for any advice and insight you can share!

I made the mistake of co-signing a car for my sister in 2022 She hasn’t been making payments on time (as of right now she’s 3 months late). The lease ends in 2026 and unfortunately I haven’t been able to get her to refinance under her name/credit. This was my first time doing a lease so I’m not sure how the process works when the time comes to turn it in. I definitely learned my lesson and I don’t not want that car under my name anymore.

Can someone explain the process?

Car: Volkswagen Financed through : VW credit

Hey yall I'm eyeing a 23 Taco Trd offroad it's 4x4 crew cab AT and got 10k miles is 42k a fair price? Location tucson az

Im looking to buy a compact truck and I was wondering, is it better to sell my car first and walk on to the lot with a cashier check or should I come by with my car and try to trade it.

I only ask because the truck Im looking at is listed at 6k and I know for a fact that my '16 civic is worth alot more than that and Im not sure if the dealer would be willing to play fair and actually hand me money.

Hello, I was quoted ~$2k/mo on a 36 month lease with $15k down, which equates to $87k in total for a car that's worth $123k (leaves only $36k difference). I have always bought cars used in the past, but I can comfortably buy the car in cash. Should I just do that? How do I think about the opportunity cost?

Sticker with MSRP and Fees: $53,945

BREAKDOWN

• MSRP: $52,770
• Delivery Processing and Handling Fees: $1,175

Final out the door price is $56,399

BREAKDOWN

• Market Value Selling Price: $53,945
• Discount: $3,150
• Adjusted Price: $50,795
• Doc Fee: $85
• Tax: $4,833
• Non Tax Fees: $685

Is this a good deal?

Installed Options

• $250 Cold Weather Package: Heated Steering Wheel, Windshield Wiper De-iced
• $300 Digital Key
• $200 Digital Rearview Mirror
• $270 Front Cross Traffic Alert and Lane Change Assist
• $900 Head-Up Display
• $1205 Lexus Interface with 14-inch Touchscreen Display
• $500 Premium Paint
• $800 Panoramic View Monitor
• $160 2000lb Towing Capacity
• $75 Wireless Phone Charger
• $130 Rear Bumper Protector
• $460 Illuminated Door Sills
• $375 Cross Bars

I've never done this before so any insight is extremely helpful! I got pre-approved through my CU for up to a certain amount. At this point, I think I go into my bank and get the "pre-approved express draft" and then go to a dealership for the car I want. I assume I would then get the dealer to fill it in but then do I send this to my CU, go home, wait for them to reply and come back another day? I'm mostly asking because the vehicle I am looking at is 4hrs away from where I live so I don't want to drive all the way there to just have to come back some other day since it is so far.

This is where I'm mostly confused about how it all works. I remember like 10yrs ago I had cosigned a pre-approval for my brother (same credit union) and he basically just had a check he took to the dealer and gave it to them when he picked the car out and bam all done. But I'm not sure if that's how it still works or not... any help is greatly appreciated!!

My friend wants to buy a cheap car because he doesn’t want a car with payments. I am in need of a car and I would like to take over the title of his car. Only issue is the car isn’t paid off yet. He didn’t get a bank loan, he paid a down payment and is making payments to the dealership. With this being said, I would assume this is up to the dealership? Is this uncommon and how should we proceed?

Sorry if this is a silly or dumb question , I want to trade in my truck which is worth around 30-32k USD as of right now for a car that is worth 25k but as of right now I still owe around 38k as I traded in another car that I owed money on for the truck. How would the process work would I need to just get the owed amount to 32k or ???? Again sorry if this is a dumb question I’m kindve young lol

I bought a used car on Saturday at a reputable local dealership. On Sunday I discovered a significant leak/waterlogged carpet issue that wasn’t disclosed during the sale process (there’s a good chance they didn’t notice it).

They told me if I found any major issues after I took it home they would “take care of me” but I don’t know if that was just sales talk. I know the paperwork I signed explicitly stated the car is sold “as-is.”

I paid cash with a personal check. Would it be a bad idea to put a stop on the check before they can cash it Monday morning to ensure they have incentive to make this right before getting paid? Or will that just make them mad and lose goodwill? At this point I don’t care if they would take the car back and I’m back to square one if I get to keep the money and find a car without issues.

I plan to go in first thing in the morning and ask them to have service address this for free or a significant discount but I’m worried my leverage will be gone once the check clears and I’ll be trusting their decency and good will.

Hello,

I am considering buying this 05 LS430. According to description, it has “New timing belt, tune up, brakes, etc.” With a clean title. Almost 120k miles with black on black colors, which is my fav combo. Price being asked is $12,550. Here is a link to the posting if you need more details. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/866936792046040?ref=saved&referral_code=null

Thanks

I’m looking for no some bs advice or insight about the car market right now …

I lease a 2022 Toyota Corolla LE with about 22k miles on it and I pay $185/month and I’m nearing the end of lease term. I’m looking to upgrade to a 2025 Corolla or a 2024 Corolla Cross - either purchase or lease again for 3 years. I didn’t put anything down, I traded it in from another lease prior. They say I have about $3k in equity from it.

I have good credit, the car exterior/interior is in great shape and no issues with the car. I keep getting mailers/calls/texts from the dealer to come in and they’ll make me a good deal - I did and they were throwing around $500-$700 payments. I’m looking to stay near where I am, or not over $300. What’s the reality of that? I’m in Florida, USA.

Went to car dealer. Got car. Signed paperwork, and didn't realize until I got home that the math wasn't right. Yes, I get that I'm supposed to know what going on. However they never told me I was paying for extras until after I signed the loan contract, then told me I didn't have a choice even though they were listed as optional on the paperwork.

Looked at my paperwork and realized they over charged me $1294 for the car in the total financed for the loan. I went back yesterday and they have me a piece of paperwork that they hadn't given me the day before with so all my other paperwork. It included the $299 for glass etching(for a used car), and $995 for ucc. I asked why they were listed as option because I didn't want them. They told they were expected and I had to have them even though they said optional. This was the dealer contract.

Here's the thing. The paper they gave me was a contract between myself and the dealership for the optional add ons they had charged me for, that I hadn't gotten the day before. This paper was not included anywhere in what they have me when I bought the car and walked out the door with all the paperwork. And I never signed it. He had though, the financing guy. Why would they give me a copy of a contract I never got for options I never agreed to that I never signed?

I want the car. But I want my money back that they took from me. Already left a message asking for my money back(to the car loan or whenever), or I'll call the bank and see if they can help me resolve the discrepancy.

Or if they don't want to resolve the issue I'll just tell the bank they were misleading on a very important piece of my loan application that will get the whole thing voided, if the lack of a signed agreement doesn't help me.

I want the car, but don't want to be taken advantage of, if I can help it. If I'm stuck with the loss, I'll deal with it. I want the car. I'm just mad because I already refused the extended warranty even after they told me they wouldn't see the car without it. Well they did and they got their kick back in the end, but not if I can help it.

So if I didn't with the contract with the dealer for the added optional fees, what chance do I have of resolving this with the dealer, knowing what I already know, voiding the warrant because of it or for the other thing in they lied about, or am I out of luck? Please be kind, I still feel pretty dumb and very angry. I tried so hard to do everything I was supposed to and not miss something like that. Especially since it was 1:30 away from and I had to go there twice(second time was to get my other car I had left there, and the contract I never signed explaining the extra charges).

Hi There! I am considering trading in my Hyundai Kona that has 1/3 years left on the lease. I am a little confused though--Tesla gave me a trade in value of $15k. If I turned in my car to Hyundai now, I'd owe about $4k. In the contract, I also have the end of lease buyout price of $21k. Which of these numbers do I need to consider if I want to trade in my Hyundai to purchase a Tesla?

Thanks in advance!

Hello all, i just recently bought a used honda civic touring with 60k miles on it feom 2022 my credit is okay at 697 out the door with my 35350 down payment was 5385 the cost after that 28804 including the intrest cost. so im financing 20740 at 11.5 intest rate what do you all think? also is there a way i can get a contract cancellation agreement even if i signed decline and it would still be valid if i were to have gotten it? im happy to provide more details if it helps my questions thank you P.S im in california

In order to have a pre purchase inspection “which is something I just learned” in my car buying research. Is there a service the dealership would do? Do I pay some place to do it? Or do I call the mechanic I usually take my current car to do?

Not even sure if I asked the right question here I am just trying to avoid a mistake I made 3 years ago when buying another car unfortunately used.

So here soon I'm going to get a Tacoma (trading in my tundra cause I miss having a smaller truck) but I can't decide if I like the OR or the TRD Pro better (and before you say it I'm not worried about the money aspect) I made a list of pros and cons for both.

OR pros: Smaller, More leg room, and No gloss black

OR cons: No red leather, No iso seats, and No hybrid

PRO pros: (lol) Bonus off-road features, Red leather, iso seats, hybrid Better, and head lights with dris

PRO cons: the god awful fenders that are huge, Gloss black, No leg room, and Is a bit bigger

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

This guy was pretty nice, and very helpful. Gave me his personal cell number, answered questions while off work. The car I wanted got bought before I could go down there and see it. He said he saw the one I wanted at another dealership and could drive it down for me. I didn't like the idea of someone else driving my brand new car, so I found where it was and bought it from them instead. Is that rude?

Looking at a used front wheel drive vehicle in my area. I live in an area that gets snow and will want to/would be wise to buy a set of winter tires. I priced it out and it's about a grand.

Is this ever something that will have any influence on selling price at a dealership?

I'm not familiar with the buying process at a dealership. Thanks in advance!

Looking for some advice on how to approach selling my old car after I purchased a new one yesterday.

Car to sell is a 2006 Accord automatic trans v6 coupe in white w/ 170k miles. Engine and trans are still kicking well.

Issues w the car:

- Needs new starter
- Needs new AC compressor
- Headliner is partially coming down
- Due for new tires - 3 are the same with 1 recently replaced w a used tire
- Could possibly use a brake job - rotors and calipers were done a couple years ago, though.
- Rims are pretty corroded
- Paint is in fairly bad shape - not horrible but not great
- Golf ball sized hole in front bumper from tow hitch
- Some wheel well rust and paint bubbling
- Quite dirty on the inside

Recent-ish repairs:
- New radiator within past 6mo
- New alternator a few years ago

My assumption is that it wouldn't be worth dropping a bunch of money into the car to fix the starter and AC compressor, right? Unfortunately i'm not super handy and not sure if it would be worth my time to try and do the repairs myself.

Aside from gettting the inside detailed and possibly the outside, what would be my best approach? My plan was to list on facebook marketplace for a quick sale, but not sure if there's anything else worth doing to fetch a better price that exceeds any other repair costs.

Thanks!

Trying to make a long story here:

I currently drive a 2021 Ford Bronco. I have about 5k in positive equity which I want to use as a down payment on an older Bronco that I’m looking to finance. The issue is, i need to sell the 2021 Bronco first to get the $$ for the down payment, but i also work full time so i need a mean of transportation for work for the week gap. Do I have any options here?