/r/Volvo
Boxy, but good.
Volvos are pretty neat. They have wheels, and a steering wheel, a horn and are made of metal boxes. That's pretty good. Volvos are known as the safest car on the planet. We think that's probably true.
If you like boxes, or have a box, want to own a box and think that a box would look better with wheels, you are in the right place.
Flair is the label that shows up next to your name, and next to your post.
With your name, pick the class of car you drive, and you will be able to find other drivers by looking out for the same colour. You can edit the text after you have chosen your make. Please don't chose a make because you like the colour, because you will look silly when someone asks you questions about the car you don't own.
When you make a post, you can see the post on the home screen. Under the post is a link called flair click that link, and flag the post based on the make of the car the post is about. Only flagged posts will be able to get categorized in the list below.
*Please don't sell your car on this site. Try finding something more local.
/r/Volvo
Howdy, my p3 XC60 T6 just crested 160k miles and has been making a weird clicking noise up in the engine bay. It only happens above 2000RPM (in boost) and under significant load (manual mode/highway acceleration). I've changed my oil and filter, running 93 octane, new plugs, coil packs, air filter, etc. Is there a valve/gasket on the intake/turbo that could be leaking causing this noise to only happen when under load and full boost?
Haven't been able to sort it out so any advice/tips is welcome!
soon to be a built 2.3l w/k24 super hybrid from nm turbo co ;)
So I have a 2024 XC60 with 9k miles on and have my first 10k maintenance scheduled in march, was going through the application and saw that it's mentioned only 1 service left? Need your inputs.
Found the issue a day after having my oil changed. Contacted the local dealership as I had the extended warranty with all state but they later confirmed they wouldn't cover due to the broken hose is excluded from contract.
The dealership later confirmed the issue was the bleeder hose broken at coolant bottle. So they told me they would get the new bleeder hose - 32252211 ordered and replaced. Total was $600
Just got my car back today and paid them the total cost and after driving it for 30 minutes, the engine coolant warning pops up again. The service center is closed and I already paid. What should I do now?
I believe that I may have a subframe gap and just looking for some assistance while my mechanic looks around at some other resources.
Video attached shows the gap on the back right hand bolt — the left hand side does not have this gap. In the video we had the car jacked up on a overhead lift and then jacked up a portion of the subframe to close the gap
When I bought this car it looked like a great deal but unfortunately the dealership that I bought it from had concealed a lot of damage from me and has not been a lot of help and no lawyers have been of any assistance as nobody has gotten back with me
I had my original mechanic replace a few things such as my front right axle and CV joint as well as some other bolts as they sold me it with a CV joint that was wrapped in plastic and zip tied on there concealing a grease leak and was not bolted on, overall just not a great start with the vehicle. I can give additional details at request as well.
I thought after I got that large repair taken care of that I'd be out of the woods but sadly now I've got a creak that I've noticed especially when accelerating or turning right. additionally it is a bit noticeably harder to turn right when it is dry but in wet conditions there is no creaking and it is easier to turn
Today, I got that looked at from another local shop this time a European vehicle specialist and they found it to be a possible gap in the subframe on the back right bolt between the mount and the body
Would anybody know how we could get this resolved or is this something that is not going to be easily resolvable? I bought the car at the beginning of Nov and the dealership has been unhelpful. Anything is going to be of assistance and I appreciate anybody that took the time to read this. ❤️
Evening all,
Does anywhere know of a good place to get either fabric or rubber floor mats for the V90 as mine don’t have any in there?
I’m wanting some in black with a bright orange trim/ piping but seem to be drawing blanks on Google 😥
Any recommendations on fabric vs rubber would be useful as well.
Thanks in advance
After a fresh wash, love the way that dark denim blue looks when the sun hits it just right!
2020 V60 R-Design T5
Couple months ago my engine warning light light up. I went to dealership checked diagnostics (P20B91E) no idea what it means apparently nothing alarming. Anyways warnign light was gone. Now its back. It disappeared for long time now its coming on/off. Everything is okay when im driving no alarming sound or lose of power etc. Any suggestions whats going on? English is not my native language as you can probably tell but i hope i made my point. Thank you!
After much waiting for the right time and anticipation I put down a deposit this past weekend for a new build V60 polestar. I was very excited. That ended abruptly this morning, when the dealer called me and informed there would be no further allocation of V60 polestars. It sounds like they have killed it. 😭
I'm buying a 2010 XC 60 3.2 AWD
It has 93000 miles.
In the next week I'm going to do the Haldex, transmission fluid change, oil, PS fluid and coolant.
I'm going to disconnect the satellite radio.
What else should I keep in mind? Thanks
I plan to take my 21 S60 to whistler sometime in the next few weeks.
I have AWD, and new ish Michelin pilot AS with M+S stamp. Regulation wise they are OK.
However, I doubt they’ll be ok if I encounter a lot of snow. Any recommendations for snow sock / chains?
I saw the ones on Volvo website but for $400, I’m looking for other options. Thank you!
Hi All,
I've bought this V70XC about a year ago, and have since had all kinds of issues with it. The classic Throttle body problem has been resolved by using the Sacer Conversion kit. This has however left me with a CEL en ETS light, and a Throttle Position DTC (ECM-91B7) which comes back after clearing. Car ran fine though after the Sacer mod.
I've replaced sparkplugs when i was diagnosing this issue, so they've been in for around 5K KM, and should be fine. There was a little oil residue in the spark plug wells when i replaced them. Nothing i thought anything off. This has happened again now.
For about two weeks now the car started having issues which i recognized from my s70; sometimes when accelerating one cylinder would misfire. When reading codes it gave me Misfire Cyl 5 (ECM-3553) and Misfiring (ECM-3503). See Image for all currently read codes...
If you can see where this is going, The wells have got some oil issues again. I took a photo of the rightmost (misfiring) well, this spark plug was dripping with oil, but wasn't submerged as far as i could see. Ofcourse i started googling "sparkplug covered in oil" and the internet told me to replace the valve cover gasket. When looking on winparts.nl i saw that there's no such thing for the volvo 5 cylinder petrol blocks.
Ofcourse our friend Robert Spinner has tons of videos of what could be the cause. First and foremost being a failing PCV system. I did the glove test, with a hot engine, on a level surface. It didn't give me a negative result. It perfectly pulled vaccuum.
Has anyone got a clue why this is happening, and what i can do to fix this? Sidenote to this being that it feels like the 5th cylinder has stopped firing alltogether. Accelerating takes ages now; there's no real power anymore. And fuel economy has completely tanked as well, doing between 15 and 20 L per 100km when doing 80km/h.
I decided to purchase a 2011 Volvo XC60 3.2L I6. However, when I took it to the dealership for a pre-purchase inspection, they informed me of several issues with the vehicle. They noted an axle leak, a faulty wheel speed sensor, and malfunctioning BLIS (Blind Spot Information System) heating elements.
The engine fan module, which the owner claimed had been replaced two years ago, displayed a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) that had not been cleared, as confirmed by his mechanic.
Additionally, they reported that the serp belt and water pump needed replacing, even though they had been replaced just 25,000 km ago, and should last up to 100,000 km.
Fluid replacements could be done inexpensively, but brake and transmission fluid changes can be somewhat subjective.
The dealership quoted me $8,000, including labor, to fix all the issues. I was really disappointed, as the owner had told me the car was well-maintained, and it seemed that way when I drove it. Fortunately, all of these problems were internal, and I'm glad I did the pre-purchase inspection.
See my previous posts re: 2024 V90 B6 lemon issues at 20K miles. The dealership has agreed to swap out the car for a 2025 model (exterior color different). They have quoted a depreciation difference of 0.30 cents/mile. So my cost ~ $6K (US). Does this sound reasonable?
Hello guys, I have an Volvo v70 P2 from 2000 that I've rebuild with my dad 3 years ago after the van suffer an accident (the person that had the accident gave us the van)
It's been the best car that I've driven so far but I thinking on ways to modernize it, inside and outside
What do you recommend?
I was thinking on assemble the led lights (the plastic ones) (I have the glass ones),
PS: sorry for my bad English, it's not my first language
Ok so I’ve looked on a bunch of different forums, but I’m just gonna throw this out here cuz someone is bound to know.
Long story short: car stalls and stops when it feels like it. Maintenance has been kept to a high standard. Switched out the suppression relay to no avail. I replaced the fuel pump relay, still stalled. Then checked the distributor rotor, replaced that too. Finally, I thought for sure it was the crankshaft position sensor. Replaced it this morning, then the car stalled again. Really not sure what the deal is anymore.
Lmk! Thanks for reading
Hey, Volvo Carvanacloth seat searchers.
I found this on carvana if any of you are interested. They are like finding a unicorn so I thought I'd post it here for you.
Currently on the market for a new daily. My eyes are set on the Volvo s60. There are two that got my attention both 2024 B5 plus with 33k miles and 40k miles respectively. The 33k miles though has only being serviced once according to CARFAX and the 40k miles one has been serviced twice. Both vehicles are priced around the same ~25,400$. I have 0 to none experience buying relatively new cars, and even less experience with Volvo. Want to know if the service history is fine or both vehicles should have been service more and either vehicle will be a “bad buy”in the long term. Just wanted to ask here since all of you are Volvo owners and were buyers at some point. Any insight will be appreciated.
I'm looking to buy a 2016 V60 which on paper looks fine, 125k miles and no reports of burning oil, however this issue and the potential cost to repair it is obviously very front of mind for me when considering purchasing the car.
I know in the USA there is a document from Volvo acknowledging the issue with burning oil/faulty piston rings and you can see the affected serial numbers of the vehicles, but I can't see anything similar for the UK or EU.
Has anyone in the UK or the EU had this issue with their V60?
I'm wondering if it was just a USA model specific issue so not relevant here? I've contacted Volvo and they said the issue was only acknowledged in the USA and can't/won't give me any more details in the UK because it's not a recognised fault here, which either means it's genuinely not an issue (cool) or it is an issue but they've just been able to ignore it here somehow (very not cool!).
Any info on this issue in the UK would be massively appreciated, thanks!
Hey gang,
This weekend I plan on doing a fluid drain on my newly purchase v70. I ordered the trans fluid on fcpeuro but they didnt include a washer like they did for my oil. What size washer will i need? Thanks in advance!
Hi, the driver side tailgate strut on my wagon starting making a clicking sound then started dropping a few inches after opening and now won’t close with the button. Tailgate closes 70% then pops back up.
My car’s warranty expired in December 2024 and the local dealership service advisor states he’s only seen this happen in his 3 years of experience and the repair won’t be covered under my recently expired warranty.
This is my 2nd Volvo and my family has owed 7. I’m appalled Volvo won’t stand behind their product when this is a known issue. My car has 29k miles and has always been serviced at the dealership. Has anyone ever reached out to Volvo HQ and received any help?
I’m headed to an independent Volvo repair shop tomorrow since the dealer has know lost my business.