Hi ya'll. I bought out my lease, this car is awesome.

However I noticed that the speakers are starting to be be crackly. I have standard audio, not Bose.

Anyone else dealing with crackle in their speakers? Sort of in the mid/higher frequencies...I don't bump my audio volume that high and have been careful not to abuse the speakers these past few years so I'm kinda a lil sad about this.

I'm wondering if it's a loose connection, where would I look to start troubleshooting? Orrr...yeah. What does one do, has anyone else experienced this.

disclaimer: I'm an average daily driver kinda person with average car knowledge 😅

This is a 2017 Mazda 6 grand touring, got in summer of 2024 for 75k miles, I want to get another 200k miles. Any advice?

Has someone experience with one of those 2 cars?

I am searching for a second hand family car since my family is growing.

How far can one drive them? I saw two with arround 80 thousand Km. I need something that I can drive until arround 180 thousand Km.

Is there typical failures or something I must be aware?

Thanks a lot for your help

Hey guys,

last year I bought the car as a beginner. New problems are gradually appearing. The rotating noise from the video https://youtu.be/ws1hqzrgHxY?si=P2CQda8JEWBxkvzH, which occurs between seconds 2 and 5, is now occurring more and more frequently and more strongly.

However, it actually only occurs sporadically. Often when I've been on the road for a good half hour and am then stuck in a traffic jam or when starting off and at very low speed. As is standard in traffic jams. But only irregularly.

If I had to localize it, I would say that it comes from under the car.

Do you have any idea what the problem could be?

2.5 s select sport with the subtle off white coloring

What coolant is everyone running on there speed 3’s?

Good morning Mazda owners, I have a Mazda 2 bought new at km0 that is two years old. For a couple of months now and then I try to open it remotely and it is unresponsive, and I have noticed that if I stop in park with the engine running without putting it in P with the brake on and someone gets out by opening and closing the door, the red light comes on as if the key was not received. The car is keyless ignition and I have now ordered a new battery for the remote control. I'm wondering, has a similar malfunction happened to you when the remote control battery is low?

https://www.prnewswire.com/news-releases/mazda-reports-best-ever-january-sales-results-302366556.html#:\~:text=Sales%20highlights%20include%3A,sales%20with%205%2C931%20vehicles%20sold.

One thing noted is the CX-70 sales have dropped considerably since October. 2517 to 1820 to 1453 to 947. Perhaps they're finally realizing their audience was right. Barely anyone needs a large 2-row version of the same 3-row car. My guess is eventually both cars will be combined at some point.

CX-5 continues to dominate as expected. CX-30 and 50 about 60% of CX-5.

Some bright spots:

Sales highlights include:

• Best-ever January sales with 33,681 vehicles sold.

• Best-ever January CPO sales with 5,931 vehicles sold.

• Best-ever January sales of CX-90 with 5,345 vehicles sold.

• Second best January sales of CX-30 with 6,657 vehicles sold.

• Second best January sales of CX-50 with 6,335 vehicles sold.

Trying out a local shop after only using the dealership for oil changes. They are quoting $317 for "Air Induction Service -GDI".

When I called, they said it was due for my mileage and they recommend doing it at the same time as spark plugs, which was also quoted on the list.

I haven't noticed any rough idling or power loss, so I'm wondering is this really a service that is useful or recommended? Should I get it done as soon as possible, or can it wait until 100k+? Other threads are split, but it feels like 80-20 not needed.

Mazda dealership is quoting $259 for "Perform fuel injection and throttle body service," is this the same service or something different? Thanks!

Official Mazda techs, how yall get this mf fuel rail off in y’all’s shops? All the bolts are off but that mf is in there TIGHT bro it just won’t come out

I’ve been the only and original owner of my 2017 Mazda cx5. I had CarPlay installed back in 2019 by the dealership and it’s been fantastic. But about 1.5 years ago, it would start to fail every time I’m on a phone call. And it’s driving me nuts. It always fails somewhere between 20 seconds and 8 minutes lol so pretty large range. When I say it fails, I mean CarPlay completely crashes and I get a Mazda message on screen that says CarPlay mobile error and I have to unplug the phone. Sometimes I have to pullover and restart my car lol

Here’s what I’ve done:

• unpaired and forgotten any Bluetooth connection to the car
• removed the Mazda gps Sd card which could cause interference
• changed usb cables
• unlinked my car from my iOS device to start the CarPlay setup device over again.
• literally got a brand new phone (didn’t do this solely for CarPlay) but it didn’t solve the issue lol
• got a new car battery.

Mazda wants $75 to diagnose the issue (which they’ve said they’re not sure they can do) + $275 to replace the hardware.

Has anyone solved something like before? Or is it reasonable for me to find the CarPlay Mazda oem part somewhere online and replace it in the center console myself since all the wiring is already there ?

Disclaimer : this is a minor inconvenience and it doesn’t affect how much I like my car. It’s just annoying at worst.

I just took ownership of a brand new 2025 Mazda CX-50 GT Turbo last Friday, and it’s been a blast so far. I don’t have much negative to say about the car, but if I had to pick, I’d say the wireless charger is probably my biggest pet peeve.

I’ve driven pretty much all the models of the current lineup thanks to my job, and I’ve noticed that the wireless charger never worked properly in any model. Either the connection is bad, like in the 23-24 CX-50 that got recalled, or the connection works fine but it doesn’t charge. That’s what’s happening in my CX-50. Whenever I put my phone on the charging pad, it seems be working but the battery actually keeps going down. The phone does get very hot, however.

I have an iPhone 14. It may not be the most recent, but I’ve used it with many wireless charging devices in many cars, and Mazdas are really the only cars where I have this problem.

Is there a workaround to this problem, or should I just accept that Mazda is not very good at making wireless chargers?

To start off I’ve never personally owned a Mazda, however I have always wanted a Miata. Not an option anymore with kids in tow! So I’m down to the CX9 and the CX90. I’ve found some pretty good CPO CX9’s locally. I’m just curious if there’s any reason to just get the newer CX90 instead? Is that worth the price jump? I’ve been trying to do a lot of research between the two and really the only thing concerning myself was the lack of air vents in the 3rd row on the cx9. Just looking for some insight from those who have owned either or both. (Pros/cons)…Anything is helpful! Thank you!

Hello everyone, I purchased a CX-5 in December and I love it. It didn't come with side bars or a roof rack but I need to get some. I have two kayaks (specifically Wilderness Systems Pungo 105s) that I would love to carry but what I need to know is if the stock OEM crossbars will suffice with 2 kayaks laying side by side? For what it's worth, the kayaks are 10'6" long and 30" wide. Would I need (or recommend) the kayak holder that stands vertically? Ideally I'd love to just have them laying down but I'll do whatever is best to cart them to where I want to go. Thanks!

Hi,

I will be purchasing a new vehicle soon and am beginning to do research on vehicles! I have started to look into Mazda. I currently have a Honda (will no longer have soon due to a divorce) and wanted to know how does Mazda compare to Honda?

I have specifically been looking at the Mazda CX-5 or maybe even the CX-30. My main requirements for a vehicle are that it is reliable, good on gas mileage, and has AWD. Bonus if it also has a key fob and remote start!

I am currently used to driving a 2023 Honda Accord Ex.

Thank you in advance for any suggestions or advice!

Check Engine Light Won’t Turn On – How to Fix? Would the Gas Cap Trick Help?

Hey everyone, I have a 2018 Mazda 6 Grand Touring, and I’ve been having an issue with my check engine light (CEL) not turning on when I start my car.

A while back, the CEL did turn on, but my battery needed to be replaced. Before I got the new battery, the light turned off on its own and never came back when I started the car. I recently had a new battery installed, but the CEL still doesn’t show up during the ignition self-test. All the other dashboard lights (ABS, oil, battery, etc.) turn on like normal, but the CEL is completely missing.

I’m wondering if the gas cap trick (driving with a loose or removed gas cap) would help confirm if the light itself is working. If I do this and the CEL still doesn’t appear, would that mean the LED or cluster is bad?

Also, are there any other ways to force the CEL to turn on or test if it’s working?

Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks in advance.

2022 CX-9, Got a check engine light, the code indicated the purge valve was faulty. Looked under the hood and saw this, where can I get a replacement harness? Don't care if it's generic, just need a quick fix for this

91k miles $11k-ish after tax, fees, and new plate.

2 owners and a very LONG car fax with a great service history. It did have a minor accident but minor enough for it to be deemed only "cosmetic".

I did see this year had transmission issues but the test drive went smoothly. What should I bring up to the mechanic during the PPI other than that?

This will be my first car so I appreciate any input! <3

Three years ago, I bought a 2016 Mazda3. I really like the way it drives, and it hasn't given me any problems. My only issue is that the seats are horribly uncomfortable. On the 3rd day after purchase, my ass was going numb. I have two seat cushions now to prevent this. I regret being so hasty with this purchase, especially when I had sat in a Mazda6 Touring edition that same day. I loved those seats! I was having a rough time looking for cars that day, and didn't have anyone with me. I had went to so many dealerships, and ultimately paid too much for the car. I still owe $8600, and unfortunately have only been offered $7500 for it as a trade it, despite having what I thought was low mileage.

So my question is if it's possible or worth it to have better seats put in? How much would it be to completely replace with nice leather seats? The new-to-me cars I've looked out are all $18k+ and it's not worth it to me if they are only offering me $7500 for my car. I just found a few Touring edition Mazdas for around 14k, but I'm wondering if it's easier or cheaper to replace the seats in my car.

Thank you!

In case anyone needs it, I found the match to the key fob screw for this style of key fob.

I ordered online from Home Depot. M2-0.4 x 4mm flat machine Philips head screw A2-70 S/S

It’s a CX-5 and on rear door.

First thought is a door hitting from adjacent car? Though there is no dent just scratches

What would be best way to fix this?

M