Got a serviced Oil change and tire rotation (A1) and now all of a sudden my TPMS light won't go away. What could be the cause of this?

I pulled my transmission out of my rsx, and wanted to quickly clean it so i spray it down with a power washer and i think a little bit of water got inside of it? Is there anyway i can try to save my transmission?

I'm a new driver currently looking for buying a car. I have a limited budget, so obviusly looking for something used, older and cheaper and I found a pretty good offer for Honda Civic 1.4 2008 with manual transmission which has 270000 km. Any advices, opinions, possible problems and things to keep in mind?

Just as the title says. I broke this piece when replacing my starter. Is it possible to replace just this piece on my alternator? 2015 Honda Fit.

My Hondas and their rank.

1. 2005 Accord Hybrid - Amazing car, had great highway fuel economy and was a blast to drive. More balanced than a regular Accord V6 due to the battery placement. The additional torque was really useful for back roads driving.
2. 1985 CRX - I used to race Porsche 944s coming down Kern Canyon in this car and it could keep up.
3. 2014 Crosstour EX V6 - Extremely comfortable. The suspension is perfection in urban hellscapes.
4. 2018 CR-V EX Sensing - Would be higher if not for the ridiculously wide center console that prevents my right leg from getting comfortable.
5. 1997 Accord EX Coupe - Bought it as a toy, really. Had wanted an Accord Coupe for a long time. It was a great car, but wasn't practical. One of the few cars I actually made money on when I sold it a year later.
6. 1984 Accord LX Hatchback - Great first manual car. Very easy to drive. Build quality was good, but the car did not hold up well in a rear-end collission with a Chrysler Town & Country.
7. 2002 Accord EX Sedan - Didn't have it long as it was totaled in a multi-car pileup. The headrest wasn't well made and the shaft in it crushed my pituitary gland, creating a condition called "Empty Cella".

EDIT:

Unranked: 2011 Element EX, was my wife's daily driver. We bought it new, then two weeks later found out she was pregnant. We tried living with it, but a rear-facing car seat convinced us quickly it wasn't sustainable. Traded for a 2008 Honda Oddesey EX, which she drove until she didn't need to haul kid stuff in bulk, at which point we sold it and got her a 2014 Ford Fusion SE AWD.

Hello everyone,I have a 2022 Honda civic sport lease . My mileage is 43,000 miles and I have 6 months left on my lease .i will definitely have to pay a good amount on the extra miles .so I was should I just buy out this vehicle and drive it till it dies .what would you guys do in my situation.

Key models like the Accord, Civic and CR-V Hybrid are all on a stop sale, how long will this last?

Holy grail!

This might be the wrong subreddit but I'll ask anyway, I have a honda GX200 engine and it has an issue. When the engine is off you can move the throttle lever and the throttle will actually move, however when it is on the throttle is stuck on idle, No matter if you move the lever or not it will stay on idle.

Stoked. Gonna get the windows tinted. I really like it so far, will be driving about 150 miles tomorrow to give a proper test. Ever since I sold my 2023 Accord a year ago, I have missed having the smooth ride and great mpg. I opted for the sport touring hybrid, last time I had an accord sport but honestly really missed the sunroof.

2020 Honda Civic. Filled up Saturday morning and had a full range of 727km. Took it to Downtown Toronto and back, and it’s not even half a tank…

for some reason the parking brake switch light is on but the parking brake is not engaged at all and the dash doesn’t display it as being on until i turn it on, is this just an electrical glitch or is something wrong ?

So I finally put my swap in but it won’t turn on I do know I’m getting spark and gas. I am stumped and don’t know at this point. Grounds are good I think my timing should be good too. Any ideas or help would be appreciated thank you

Would you take this offer? I’m in Colorado, trying to upgrade to a bigger suv for the family, and have never considered leasing before. I’ve always financed but car prices are a little higher than I realized and financing puts me in a monthly payment just outside my comfort zone. Ideally I’d keep this next car for a while but I’m not sure anymore if I choose to lease…

Hello everyone. I figured I’d do a write-up on this as I think it will help others. I may not leave this up for too long so snapshot if you need to. Do your research on what this applies to, I am not responsible for your own dumbassery. Additionally, do not PM or DM for help if you’re stuck, start this at your own risk. If you’ve got the 1.5 turbo motor that’s in many models spread across many years, this guide may be helpful. This adjustment is recommended every 80,000-100,000 miles.

Time for project: 2 hours (give 4 hours just in case anything goes wrong)

Before we begin: I recommend checking out your serpentine belt as it’s a good time to change it right now. Additionally, take pictures before you start anything so you have reference if needed.

Tools needed:

• 10mm semi deep socket (3/8”)
• 3” extension (3/8”)
• Ratchet (3/8”)
• 10mm wrench
• Pliers (standard)
• Pliers (needle nose)
• .010 valve feeler gauge (for exhaust side)
• .009 valve feeler gauge (for intake side; note: this seems to be an uncommon size, so make sure you have this one)
• Flat head screwdriver
• Jam nut valve adjustment tool (10mm) (optional)
• 14mm spark plug socket (optional)
• Jack
• Jack stand
• Chock for wheel
• 19mm semi deep socket
• Wheel lug nut socket (19mm)
• Ratchet (1/2”) (preferably 24” bar type)
• 12” extension (1/2”)
• 19mm long boxed wrench (optional)

Parts needed:

• tube of Hondabond
• Valve cover gasket (12341-59B-013)
• Serpentine belt (31110-5AG-Z01) (optional)
• Brake cleaner

Please look at diagram located here. You’ll see that there are 10 bolts that hold on the valve cover itself. 2 of those bolts are blocked by some hard lines (front right of the cover). 2 bolts are blocked by the wiring harness for the coil packs (back left and back center).

Step 1: take negative lead off of battery

Step 2: take out coil packs

Step 3: take out spark plugs (optional, but will make turning over motor much easier)

Step 4: take off two nuts holding hard lines on the front right of the valve cover. You don’t have to take the line out, just need them loose

Step 5: take out three bolts on left side of the case that hold accessories to the valve cover (not the bolts that hold down the valve cover yet) (should be two silver and one black)

Step 6: follow the two hard vacuum lines on one of the bolts you just took out and you’ll see where they transition to rubber lines; take the rubber free from the hard lines.

Step 7: there’s a 10mm bolt that holds the harness to the plastic intake that leads to turbo, undo that bolt and unclip harness

Step 8: flip the attachment for those same hard lines over to expose the clip (brownish color) holding part of the wiring harness in

Step 9: follow the harness that you just freed back towards the firewall and you’ll see another clip holding the harness (green)

Step 10: the harness has one snap that holds it in on the left hand side. Squeeze that to release. Then side the harness to the right to complete free the harness from the valve cover

Step 11: remove oil filler cap, and move items out of the way to completely expose valve cover

Step 12: remove vacuum line on back right of the valve cover

Step 13: hoping your breather line (gray line on front left of valve cover) is as compliant as mine, take a small flathead screwdriver, get between the rubber and plastic and finagle it out

Step 14: remove all bolts from the valve cover (should be 10). Be careful not to drop any

Step 15: jack up car on passenger side (only); secure with jack stand; chock back wheels

Step 16: remove wheel (front passenger)

Step 17 (optional serpentine belt): remove filler neck for windshield wiper tank

Step 18 (optional serpentine belt): remove overflow tank for radiator

Step 19 (optional serpentine belt): using 19mm long boxed wrench, release tensioner pulley by turning clockwise. Remove serpentine belt

Step 20: using the ridges on the back of the valve cover, take both hands and pull towards front of vehicle. Be careful to not yank but it will take a little bit of force.

Step 21: once cover is free, pull up evenly as you pull it off of over the spark plug shields and remove cover

Step 22: pay attention to where hondabond was applied before and the amount used as you will be doing this as well (take pic if necessary)

Step 23: using 1/2” ratchet, 12” extension, and 19mm, go through access hole in plastic inner fender splash shield to access crank bolt

Step 24: turn crank to line up crank with white dot. This is seen from above using a light and looking towards the harmonic balancer. You will see a metal indicator from the engine case, you line that up with the white dot on the harmonic balancer. This is getting cylinder 1 tdc (top dead center)

Step 25: cylinders are numbered 1-4; starting at the front of the motor (passenger side of vehicle) as number 1, and going up to cylinder 4 going towards rear of motor (drivers side of vehicle). Check the intake valves with the feeler gauge and they should provide some drag. Check out videos on YouTube if you aren’t sure where to use the feeler gauges. The intake valves are towards firewall and use the .009 feeler gauge. The exhaust valves are towards the front of the vehicle and use the .010 feeler gauge. Every cylinder has 4 valves, so you will do this adjustment 16 times.

Step 26: either using a 10mm with flat head screwdriver or using a valve adjustment tool, loosen the jam nut first, then losen (counter clockwise) or tighten (clockwise) the valve. Once adjustment made, tighten jam nut. Note: make small increments of adjustment like 1/8th turn till desired tightness achieved. The jam nut is torqued to 10 ft/lbs. Once all 4 valves are done for cylinder 1, proceed to step 27. Note: check with feeler gauge one more time just to ensure torquing didn’t mess with valves.

Step 27: turn crank slowly and pay attention to the intake cam gear (vtc) (remember, intake is towards firewall, or the left cam if looking at front of motor), there are numbers on it. Those numbers correlate with which cylinder is at TDC whenever that number is at the 12 o’clock position.

Step 28: continue adjusting till all 4 cylinders are done

Step 29: clean off surface for valve cover. Remove all of old hondabond. Put some brake cleaner on towel and clean surface. Do not spray on directly!

Step 30: clean valve cover and put new gasket into valve cover

Step 31: apply hondabond in 1/4” bead in 4 spots where originally applied

Step 32: install valve cover, look to make sure you didn’t knock gasket out of trough in valve cover when installing

Step 33: tighten 10 bolts for valve cover to 5.2 ft/lbs

Step 34: start installing accessories back to valve cover, including the vacuum lines (vacuum line in back right of valve cover, breather line in front left of cover, 2 hard vacuum lines), install bolt to intake plastic and clip harness back in, snap harness back in on firewall side (green clip). All bolts for this part are at 9 ft/lbs. Install nuts on front of valve cover.

Step 35: install spark plugs at 15 ft/lbs

Step 36: install ignition coil packs at 9 ft/lbs

Step 37 (optional serpentine belt): install serpentine belt using this diagram for reference . Install overflow tank and filler neck for washer tank

Step 38: install wheel; lug nuts to tight.

Step 39: torque lug nuts to 80 ft/lbs (assuming you have stock wheels). Remove chock from wheels

Step 40: reconnect negative battery terminal and tighten so that you cannot move terminal

Done!! I hope this helps someone.

Lol this is definitely someone's stolen set

I ended up hitting the highway median on an early morning and destroyed my front driver wheel along with the front driver suspension. Yeah I f*cked up.. but looking to get this rebuilt and trying to figure out how to navigate this 😢

Some questions I have: Should everything be replaced? Any hidden damage I should look out for? Any upgrades I should do while I’m at it?

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks in advance!

https://imgur.com/a/O93L2W6

Got this car about 2 months ago and the other day I started to hear a slight whine noise. Now it seems a bit louder and as l'm driving 20-30mph I feel what I think to be a slip. Also as I decelerate the car almost acts as if I'm pressing the breaks by how much it slows down.

So for some reason HandsfreeLink no longer shows up. I got a new iPhone 16 Pro — I hard reseted it, turned on/off my blue tooth, attempted disabling my “Content Privacy restrictions” by going to Screen Time and still no success. My phone won’t detect HandsfreeLink Bluetooth. I reset-ed my car’s system as well and still HandsfreeLink no longer appears on my new phone. Does anyone have other ideas?

Anyone able to get me a free PDF version of some wiring diagrams or a repair/service manual for a 2007 Honda Odyssey EX-L????? Can't find em anywhere online for less than hundreds of dollars only one up to 2005 and after 2010.

Hello, I have the radio code for my 2009 CRV. I have been trying to enter it in since I got my battery changed, and to get it out of anti theft mode. However, everytime I enter it, it always says “incorrect pin.” What can I do to get it working again?

Bought a new radiator from mishimoto and it’s about an inch too tall mine has an f23a in it just wondering if I’m going to have to find an import radiator or if there is a US model that has the correct size radiator

I was thinking about doing a K swap, but I feel very confused about the entire process: what engine will work? What else will I need to do along the way? Is it even worth it?

I have been watching YouTube videos but seem to be getting a lot of different opinions and processes which makes sense. I don’t have very much mechanical experience, but I do have some mechanic friends so I plan on doing as much as possible without a shop.

My budget is around $10,000 or less and I’m not even sure if that’s in the right ball park. I just love my silly little chassis and want to give it a good life, it’s just such a unique car. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Mods, please delete if not allowed, I just thought this might be a good place to start.

Thank you!

hi guys, I got a 2024 Honda HRV LXB in April earlier this year and just barely completed 5000 kms recently. I want to know when is the right time to get the 1st service done, as the emails from Honda says 8000 miles or 6 months whichever is earlier; and the manual says only when the maintenance dashboard starts showing you the service reminder. Please guide me and advise when should I go in for the 1st service. I'm in Ontario, Canada.

https://preview.redd.it/t50xqaupojyd1.jpg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5c90ba1c680cebfd60cc3ef6ec86e80da2e00a0

As the title says, someone stole my sideview mirror. However it looks like the electrical stuff inside still works and the motors still spin when I adjust them with the controls. Can I just buy an aftermarket mirror with the backing, and put it on, or was anything else broken?

Dealer quoted me $500, 2018 Honda CRV LX