It was bought from an auction in TX-currently in WI, has roughly 90k miles. He estimated a price of $6k, I'm going to take a better look at It tomorrow.

What things should I look out for when inspecting the car to make sure it is in working order?: engine bay-electronics, ect?

Exterior of the car looks really good still, very minor dings from regular driving.

So I am looking to purchase a tdi One of the vehicles im looking at is a

2011 a3 s line tdi manual wagon(new timing belt wheel bearings and a Malone tune) asking 7200 124k miles (listed 2 days ago)

2013 Jetta tdi auto (timing belt and mait records from 35k miles and a cr170 turbo replaced at 75k) 120k miles 6500 (Listed 4 months ago and dropped from 9k)

My main question would be is if the vw would be inherently more reliable. I do like the Audi being a wagon and manual and has the nicer interior but it isn’t a deal breaker.

Are clutches expensive to do in these cars if it hasn’t been replaced.

What should I look for when looking at the vehicles again and what should I expect to spend on repairs/would the Audi cost more to repair.

Had a cylinder destroyed after my turbo went so a new motor is going in my mk6. Nothing is being changed modification wise, The car is deleted with an Eoc delete kit and an mr tune, do I need to get a re-tune?

Hey y'all, just recently my DPF light came up on my dash. Hasn't done that before. Scanned it, got the P2002 code. Car isn't regenning when it should, and it consistently is doing it. About 10 minutes ago, on my commute back home, the light went off, and glow plug light started flashing, with the following loss of power. I pulled over, and restarted it. It turned off the glow plug light and it assumed normal power levels, but the filter light stayed on. I'm assuming the filter needs to be cleaned. Tips? Suggestions? Anything would help, thanks.

I DO want to delete the DPF but that's currently not an option. College kid, with a lot more to worry about than deleting and tuning.

At the moment I have an chip tune and optimization to about 170ps. I get about 6-7L/100KM on the autobahn when driving 130km/h constantly. Is there a way to make it about 5-6L/100KM?

Hello! I recently purchased a 2013 Touareg TDI executive and I cannot seem to get the Bluetooth connection. It will search for devices and nothing… My I phoneX doesn’t seem to pick it up either… I’d tell you the software version of this infosystem- if you told me how.

My brake light is on in my 05 Jetta bew. All my brakes are working fine my pads have plenty of life. What do I do to fix it?

Recently did an EGR delete on my mk4 Jetta, then I started getting this code. My car is running much better with the delete, so I’d much rather not put the valve back on if possible, but I also don’t want my check engine light to stay on obviously. What should I do?

Battery works fine, starter motor works. But won’t turn on… Fuel pump? Relais 190?

I have a 2012 Jetta TDI, manual, 2nd owner (bought at 45K) and am about to hit 190K. I had the timing belt replaced about 10K miles ago, get my oil changed every 6K, and replace fuel filter every 20K. I love my car and has been super faithful and want to keep it that way, as I drive a lot for work. Any recommendations you fine people have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

So I deleted my dpf and went for a 0.5 stage tune so I didn’t have to upgrade tranny. I bought the parts from nat performance which I’m really impressed with and went with tunezilla. What can I charge for all these parts? The dpf doesn’t have any cracks on it but it was throwing codes and there was soot in the tail pipe and where can I sell it on?

Hello, does anyone know on 2012 eu Passat with bixenon headlights, if high beam shutter has wire going to headlight connector or if canbus controls shutter? I need to connect aux led bar to high beams because i do alot of rural night driving and i have to connect triger wire to rellay but don't know where to.

I have a 2012 TDI Sportwagen that my sister drove to visit family. She got almost all the way there and it went into limp mode. My cousin read all the codes (see below) and changed the DPF. He is a very good mechanic but doesn't know much about diesel. It still will bearly do 50 mph. Do you know of any good mechanics in the Ashburn VA area that might be able to fix it?

P2002 (1/ 18) Stored - Particulate Trap Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold Severity 2 of 3

P0401 (2/ 18) Stored - EGR System: Insufficient Flow

P240F (3 / 18) Stored - EGR Slow Response

P0136 (4 / 18) Stored - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1S2: Malfunction In Circuit

P2271 (5 / 18) Stored - SAE: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Signal B1 S2: Stuck Rich

P0544 (6 / 18) Stored - Sensor 1 For Exhaust Temp Bank 1 (G235): Circuit Malfunction

P2463 (7 / 18) Stored - Diesel Particle Filter: Excessive Soot Accumulation

P2002 (8 / 18) Pending - Particulate Trap Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold

P0401 (9 / 18) Pending - EGR System: Insufficient Flow

P240F (10 / 18) Pending - EGR Slow Response

P0136 (11/ 18) Pending - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Malfunction In Circuit

P2271 (12/ 18) Pending - SAE: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Signal B1 S2: Stuck Rich

P0544 (13 / 18) Pending - Sensor 1 For Exhaust Temp Bank 1 (G235) Circuit Malfunction

P2463 (14 / 18) Pending - Diesel Particle Filter: Excessive Soot Accumulation

P2002 (15 / 18) Permanent - Particulate Trap Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold

P240F (16 / 18) Permanent - EGR Slow Response

P0136 (17 / 18) Permanent - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B1 S2: Malfunction In Circuit

P2271 (18 / 18) Permanent - SAE: Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Signal B1 S2: Stuck Rich

(And about a half hour this morning)

The car is a 2007 VW CrossPolo 1.9 TDI. Lately, I've noticed an issue when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear: the car sometimes starts to tremble violently, with the entire vehicle shaking, only when I press the accelerator. This mainly happens on downhill or flat roads at low to mid RPMs. Although it doesn’t occur every time, it's been happening more frequently and with greater intensity.

I recently changed the tires, but this issue was present before that as well, with less intensity. It used to last a second or so, which made me think it was normal, but now it’s much more noticeable and prolonged.

Do these readings look ok?

Hi

Hoping you can help.

New to using OBDEleven and got the below readings for injectors on my VW Touran 2011, do these read ok?

Took my mk6 in for a blown turbo and after the install an injector was stuck open. Shop was having trouble figuring out why and did a compression test and found out that cylinder had low compression. i guess a chunk of the turbo made its way into the cylinder and did its thing. Is this something that happens?

Long story short I bought an 06 BRM Jetta with 195k on it. Had a code for MAF and a glow plug. NBD. Nope that’s only where it began, I literally bought the nightmare car that everyone is terrified of getting haha anyway. After about 500 miles the thing died on me while driving, which ended up being the starter. Once that was done the thing flagged for 5 more codes and is now stuck in limp mode.

-P2564 boost control sensor fault -P0237 boost sensor a circuit -P0102 MAF -P0404 EGR -P0726 Crankshaft position sensor

I took a couple days to decide if I was going to get rid of the car and count it for a loss or run it because I’m a Hagen Das for life… well here we are trying to fix the MK5th reich because screw it ending up digging a little more into the car and needed a few things. Changed the water pipe, DMF, glow plug ended up just being the harness, the crankshaft position sensor, a ball joint, and tie rod end. It’s needs some more but working on just getting her running for now.

I find it odd that all of those codes flagged after the starter died and now it is stuck in limp mode too. What are the odds it’s an electrical problem, I was thinking maybe a bad ground or broken wire, maybe I missed something. I’m kind of at a loss because I can’t imaging that all of those things are bad, plus I changed the cksp and the code is still there. Anyone have any experience with some weird stuff like this? Any help is appreciated!

Question for the TDI nerds!! I currently got a 2014 sportwagen with a DSG and 76k miles. Deleted both cats and DPF. Kept the muffler to not be obnoxious. Stage 0.5 Tunezilla tune and own my own tuner. Few guys have told me to tune my DSG even if the stage 0.5 tune doesn't require it. What would the benefits of the tune for the DSG be? I commute about 60 miles per day and majority of if it is usually in traffic. I went from getting 420-440 miles between fills to getting about 480-520 miles with the delete and stage 0.5 tune. I don't care for power or anything. My only goal is to make the car last as long as possible and be as good on MPG as possible. Would a DSG tune be worth it for me? And why or why not?

Did my timing belt recently, found my HPFP to be leaking from the shaft seal. Bummer but good excuse to CP3 it. This weekend I'm doing weight reduction and CP3, popped the timing cover off and as it turns out I'll be taking the belt off three times within 1k miles because the water pump is leaking already. Thanks I hate it.