Last thing I have left from my JSW that was totaled last month. Anyone need it?

I purchased a Golf. The previous owner had installed an aftermarket fuel filter. I am troubleshooting diesel delivery issues.

I want to make sure they used the correct fuel lines when they installed this filter. I can’t seem to find a diagram anywhere. Near the firewall I have two hard plastic fuel lines. One is black, one is blue. Which one is the return line to the tank? The one near the firewall (black) or the one closer to the front of the car (blue)?

I read in a forum about somebody who had them switched up (with the return line feeding the injector pump) and surprisingly the car still ran, but had intermittent starvation issues. That’s what I’m dealing with.

Gonna try to get my 2014 2.0 Jetta deleted, I have found a trustworthy shop to do it at and I think im going with a Malone stage 2 tune. What’s the whole process to do it and what’s everything I need to order?

Context: 2014 JSW TDI 6MT - 78k miles

The symptoms:

• Car bucks at light throttle in 3rd and 4th gear around 2k RPM. It hesitates and lurches.
• Car shuts off coming to a coast after putting the car into neutral. Happens about once a day.
• CEL comes on for the center exhaust flap

Intermittent codes:

p048a - exhaust pressure control valve 'a' stuck closed

p047f - exhaust pressure control valve 'a' stuck open

p2015 - intake manifold runner position sensor/switch circuit range performance bank 1a

p048c - exhaust pressure control valve position sensor/switch circuit range/performance

I took it to the dealer once, and after a $200 diagnosis they said they would have to take more apart to verify it's dieselgate related and the labor would be on me until they could prove anything.

They did replicate the shutting off, which they suggested was because my Cat was once stolen and replaced that when the O2 sensor wiring was sawzalled it might have shorted something on the ECU. The idea is that under insurance this could be supplemented because it's a safety issue with the car dying - but this seems extreme. The ECU is really a lifetime part and I can't see anyone online that has had to go through this.

Regarding the bucking, it seems some folks have had luck with the crankshaft position sensor being replaced - but this is a huge PITA to get to although I have the part. I can get that replaced for about $400 which feels money well spent and then taking it back to the dealer to address the flap and the car dying occasionally: https://www.reddit.com/r/tdi/comments/1dmklin/no_one_knows_whats_wrong_with_my_golf_tdi_what/

Does my plan to address the crankshaft position sensor to address the lurching make sense?

Followed by taking it back to the dealer and addressing the flap and cutting out under warranty?

Long story short, I'd like to prioritize this in the next two months without spending thousands to chase this down.

Past 2 nights I have been driving home from work and the dreaded “check oil level” light came on it looks fine and I thought it was the oil level sensor but when I got home I noticed some a very small amount oil in driveway. I recently done an oil change. Is this typical , or did I screw something up. I put in the full 6 liters, ran it and looked and nothing seemed to be leaking.

Saw a few posts in multiple subs about advertised vs real world fuel economy with many not getting close to it, so I got curious again.

1. What's your car and advertised economy?
2. What are you actually getting?
3. What does your driving profile look like?
4. Where do you drive?
5. What fuel are you using?

In my case:

1. Stock 2021 Audi S4 Avant, mixed 6.3l/100km

2. 6 to 6.7l/100km when driving casually and 7.3l/100km over 15,000km when fast driving is included. Hypermiling was 3.5l/100km.

3. Long distance, often fast, but fuel efficient with common sense methods like braking as little as possible, not tailgating etc.

4. Germany, lots of Autobahn, but also from the Balkans to well above the arctuc circle.

5. Normal EN590

I basically got exactly what it said on the box.

I just picked up a 2013 Touareg tdi, and coming from a mk4 Jetta tdi. I am loving the Touareg, but the fuel consumption I feel could be better. I don’t drive like an asswhole, but I do drive a lot of highway and 60-70 is where I like to sit at and is within the speed limit. Is deleting the egr and adblue going to give me enough mpg to make it worth it? (I know adblue won’t change anything I just don’t wanna deal with it) Any particular tune recommendation?

Hi i have skoda octavia 1 with ASV engine 81kw and i have really bad fuel consumption. Theese engines usually do like 4-5L/100km mine does 8-10L/100km and i dont know what to do. MAF is relatively new but in diagnostics i noticed it shows lower values than expected MAP is questionable but in diagnostic logs seems to be reading correct values I disabled egr through VAG and locked it close variability on turbo is not stuck and moves freely yes the bad fuel consumption is calculated not from car pc(maxidot) Any help or ideas?

Hello everyone, I have a 2015 Passat with the 2.0 tdi (ofc,) and 6-speed DSG auto transmission. I was just making this post because I was wondering what are the best options when it comes to tunes, and what deletes I should go with today. And with the automatic DSG’s, you have to tune them as well right? I know Rawtek was a popular option for deletes, but it seems like they don’t ship to the U.S anymore unfortunately. From what companies do I have the option of getting, and what are some of the most reputable ones that still ship to the u.s. also, is it possible to do the deletes on 2015 TDI’s? Because any delete kits I’ve seen, go up to 2014, and I never see a 2015 option.

Completely new to diesel engines, so I apologize for all the questions. But any help and replies I appreciate greatly!

About to do refresh front/rear suspension. Anything else I need to buy?

I've got a 2011 A3 and have oem projector headlights, does anyone know if the EVOX-R 2.0 projector fits as a replacement? I've done quite a few retrofits, so I'm not new to tearing open headlights. I believe the Audi projectors are E55's? Can anyone confirm any of this? I wanted to buy a set of EVOX-R's from The Retrofit Source and replace mine due to them being extremely dim. I appreciate any advice.

https://preview.redd.it/kszi0okukj3e1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=080a55236baf242fefc7b6dac14b70a809179dc4

Looking into maybe getting a 2015/2016 BMW X5 35d after I retire my 200k mile Treg

I chose the Treg because the issues that ut could have seemed manageable and infrequent/rare and MOST things could be accomplished on my own

I really lucked out though and have had minimal issues.

So my question is — if I do go this route — what goes wrong on these BMW’s? I’m ok if they have some issues and I can deal with it on my own. Obviously there’s always the SCR/DPF like any diesel. My frequent highway driving helps immensely with this.

There’s also the CP4 “variable”. It can just blow up one day randomly and that’s insanely costly. But I do feel like regularly using fuel additives like I do helps with that.

So besides these things… what else commonly breaks on these?

This is after an hour drive. My red Bull is too warm to drink comfortably. The cupholders get to about 125°-135° whiles the rest of the car is 70° and it's 30° outside

Hey all - 2012 Jetta CJAA. I have a pair of ramps, but I'm concerned that it may not raise the vehicle high enough to be able to slide the DPF out.

Has anyone been able to accomplish this using ramps?

I have these ones here - Amazon.com: RhinoGear 11912ABMI RhinoRamps MAX Vehicle Ramp - Pair (16,000lb. GVW Capacity) : Everything Else

Keeping this one short : what oil do you use yourself? Any preferences in brands and why?

Main dealer in city got the sack with VW changing their structure here in ireland . Back doing oil services between myself and the local indie and decided it would be a good idea to change oil to Liqui Moly since the car is trying to be kept going for another 10 or more years . Main dealer was their standard 0W-30 , but i am going to 5W-30 top tech 4200 . Cars manual said its fine spec and originally had 5W-30 day one . Car is mk7 golf 1.6TDI 115 hp DDYA

So a few months back I had the dreaded coolant flange leak on my Passat ‘12 TDI SEL. After the job, a brand new MAP sensor began throwing codes with the dirty intercooler and green ooze.

This coincided with a stark decrease in fuel economy, anywhere from 4-10 mpg. I replaced the MAP sensor, my next suspicion is the intercooler as it’s possible it’s gunking up and throwing off the MAP.

But the weirdest tell I can confidently say a few weeks into the cold weather, is now my MPGs are still the same. I’m averaging exactly 30MPG in both 30 degrees Fahrenheit and 80 Fahrenheit.

So yeah, before I take it back to my mechanic, probably the biggest tell as to what could be occurring? being no drop off between cold and warm months. And of course I’m comparing all of this to 20k+ miles logged on this car before with great fuel efficiency. Easily cracking 600 miles a tank in summer and 500 in winter

Looking up a few YouTube vids on the repair for this , holy Moses I started to laugh , pretty much have to take the front end off to get at the reservoir!!! Mine works & sprays but Leaks a fair bit , according to what I see it’s the grommets require replacing. I’ll wait till spring to take the front end off . Hahahaha my lord

Hi, I have a 2012 VW Passat 2.0 TDI, and I recently purchased a new serpentine belt. I was curious if I had the correct size as the old one seems a hair larger and the new one doesn’t seem to want to go on. Just wondering if anyone knows what length the belt is supposed to be or has a part number for the proper belt.