Hey there, folks! So, I've got a spiffy 2009 CBEA Jetta with some snazzy mods like a spicy stage 2 Malone tune and Rawtec exhaust, stage 2 South Bend Endurance clutch, and DMF. Thing is, I'm experiencing a hesitation between 1200 and 2500 rpm at 30%-60% throttle. It's like the car's going through puberty again and the voice is cracking. But hey, at least it's pulling hard at full throttle, right? Its been noticeable for about 500km. I'm pretty sure I didn't accidentally introduce any water to the fuel system during that pesky rainstorm I had to fill up in. So it's probably just a fun little coincidence. The VW's got 260k km on it and has been tuned for 10k and iv been thrashing it (its a lot of fun). I've been doing oil changes every 8000km and timing belt/water pump replacement at 200k. Before the tune, it sat for three years, but I made sure to start it up monthly and let it purr to warm up. So, any ideas on how to check the hpfp, injectors and turbo with VCDS? Could it be anything else? Anyone else experienced anything similar?

Does anyone know what the recommended RTV to use on the bottom end of a 2.0 TDI CJAA is?

It looks like the original stuff on both the blocks I have is white but I believe the cam carrier stuff is black. I have to do the top end also so any recommendations there would be great too.

I just didn’t know if there was a specific one I should be looking for.

Any tips would be greatly appreciate. I have driven this car a ton, been doing long drives sitting between 55-60mph. I’m at a loss here. I do have VCDS, but I don’t see a way to do any form of forced readiness with it

I brought my 2014 Jetta CJAA into the dealer about a month ago with the dreaded p2002 and p2015 codes. Got my intake manifold, EGR, and DPF replaced under warranty (I'm at the 10 year mark and under 120,000 miles).

Picked up my car on Friday, drove it home, parked for an hour and started it up again. Now it reads a p048c code. I can hear what sounds like the flapper squeaking in the midsection of my exhaust pipe, which I had never noticed before until I received it from the dealer. Unfortunately they were closed by the time I noticed.

Could this have been an issue from before my repairs, that wasn't being recognized because the EGR and DPF were already fucked to begin with? If so, wouldn't the technicians have noticed this when doing the repairs?

If not, could there be another issue, such as the tech seriously fucking up while doing the repairs? I mean the valve is plugged in, I can hear the motor doing something but I haven't taken it off to check myself.

Or could this just be pure coincidence that it finally got gummed up the day I got it back after similar emissions repairs.

Any insight would be appreciated. Gonna call the dealer tomorrow.

Does anyone know if the BEW wiring harness is compatible with the ALH motor? Mine’s toast and they discontinued them.

Had a dpf light on for a while (roughly 2ish months) attempted to fix it by following the manual, no luck.

Just the other day, i filled my vehicle up like normal & went for a cruise. Magically my dpf light is no longer on.

What happened? Is it now “fixed”? I assumed it was cracked at the time, but its now i want to think it was just overly clogged

I wanted to do a delete, but it’s highly illegal where i am & no one was willing to help delete & remap my engine. Is that still necessary?

Hello, I have a 2001 Jetta ALH. I cannot put any fuel into the car almost at all. I have to hold the nozzle almost completely out of the filler neck and barely have the fuel flowing. It will immediately come almost all the way out of the filler neck with any flow and if you go more than just barely on it will shut the pump off. I’ve tried pulling the small tank vent by the fuel cap, that didn’t help. I tried blowing out the vent line and it just pressurized the tank and then shot fuel out of the filler neck. I even grabbed a strand of solid wire and put it down the filler neck and didn’t feel any obstructions. I’m at my wits end here it takes like 15 minutes to go from a quarter tank to full. Does anyone have any ideas? Is there some type of check valve in the filler neck that might be broken? Is the vent bad? I have no clue on what else to do other than replacing the whole tank but I would prefer to try and not do that.

My belt is bouncing around like crazy and my alternator is like clicking and sounds terrible but I don't know how to tell if it's the alternator itself or just the overrunning pulley any help would be appreciated

Check engine light is for bank #2 o² sensor

Hey guys i have 2001 golf tdi (66kw) and i want to change the turbocharger, bicose i ti is almost done, my question is. Can i put turbocharger from another 110kw golf or some other car?

Where do I even begin, bought the car with 167k on the dash, no service records besides an oil change done at 165k.

About 180k miles the turbo gives up and the dpf, get those replaced at Gary’s Automotive in holland Michigan, they completely screw up everything, forget to put sensors in the dpf causing them to be unable to regen, they give the car back like that, bring it to crown motors in holland and they show me the wires that aren’t in the exhaust, go back and get them put in the exhaust, everything works great. LIMP MODE turns on, bring it back to Gary’s, he doesn’t know. Bring it to crown and apparently the turbo needs to be replaced because Gary put the wrong turbo on(they said that the actuator wasn’t reaching a high enough boost level). Go ahead and replace that at crown and have them clean everything. Bring the turbo back to Gary and get my money back. All is good on the car :) (yay). Egr code pops up (P0401), bring it in to have it looked at by crown(don’t trust Gary anymore). They say that my egr valve needs to be replaced, got that done and drove the car a couple days, egr tube from valve to turbo blows up(actually explodes). They replaced that after that happened. Egr code goes away for awhile and then pops back up, thinking great, I don’t have the money for this anymore. So I bring it to Gary, ask him if it’s a problem, he says that it’s not gonna be a problem and to ignore it. I do as he says and ignore it, clearing the code makes it not pop up for the rest of the drive, so I continue with that. Been driving it like that for around 3 or 4 months.

Last night I get home, car was running oddly smooth, but I notice it sounds like a tractor, thinking that my egr pipe had blown up again I pop the hood and listen, the sound is coming from the intake… interesting. It sounds like exhaust is going thru the intake, I could hear each individual fire point thru the intake, which isn’t to be expected. So I’m think great, lovely. I leave the car sitting overnight. Wake up, get ready for church, go start my car and my coolant light flashes at me. Get out check the coolant and it’s below the minimum in the expansion cap, fill it with a little bit of coolant, and leave it to warm up a little, come back and the car has gone up a couple ticks on the coolant level. Drive it down to the highway and it’s running fine, hop on the highway, set my cruise at 80mph and chill on my 25 mile drive to church. Get about 10 minutes away from the church and I notice my car is down shifting when it shouldn’t need to. I turn the cruise off and try to give it some gas, doesn’t move, actually slowed down. I’m think okay great, turbo is cooked or something. Keep limping it to the church, get in the parking lot and I’m noticing as I bring it to a stop it starts to stutter and barely stay started. At this point I know the car is fucked, something really wrong is happening in the engine. I go to pull into a spot and I put the car into reverse and let off the brake and it stutters and shuts off. Push the car into a parking spot and now am getting it towed over to crown to have them fix it. Hopefully gonna have them warranty the whole thing, I’m thinking the turbo failed and it caused the engine to ingest something.

Im hoping crown will work with me on either fixing the whole car or giving me a new engine.

Any suggestions, what would you do?

cant seem to find any kit and anybody that did doesn't make them anymore

According to the VAG DPF app, my Golf 6 1.6 TDI's DPF has reached 106% of the "oil ash residue" value. As far as I understand, this residue isn't reduced during regens.

The car isn't experiencing any issues, and completed regens every approx. 300km, but there is some soot in the exhaust.

I'm considering proactively having the DPF professionally cleaned and the onboard values reset. It would cost about €300 including labor here in Europe.

What do you guys think? Is it worth doing this proactively or should I just wait for any issues to arrise then have it cleaned.

Deleting isn't an option for me.

Thanks!

A little background: I moved to a place with pretty rough winters and my old ‘07 C230 wasn’t cutting it. In 2019, I found a ‘12 Q7 3.0 TDI for about 15k - had only 120k miles on it, clean title, and up to date on all service. It felt like a steal. I figured I’d need to do some lifetime maintenance on it eventually (tires/brakes/manifolds/etc). I was prepared to take that on for a car that could outlast me. But here I am, at about 150k miles on the car, and the check engine light won’t stay off (I’ve had it in the shop 3 times in 2024 alone). I’ve had to replace sensors, injectors, glo plugs, brakes, and even the fan motor. That’s not even counting a DEF issue I had a few years back, which was luckily covered under the warranty. I’ve babied the hell out of this car, because I wanted to keep it well taken care of. And I feel like every second opinion I got reiterated that if I took care of this car, it’d last forever. I was prepared to do that, but over the lifetime of the car. I’ve put more money into this thing than what I paid for it, and I’m feeling incredibly disheartened. I sold my c230 last year and never once saw that car’s check engine light… I didn’t want to even consider getting rid of it, because I do love it, but this is stressing me out. Has anyone else experienced these issues and at what point do I call it quits?

i took appart and cleaned my CJAA manifold and now i cant find the gasket that goes between the plastic base where the swirl flaps go and the aluminum part of the manifold.

i wanna know what the gasket is and what torque specs fasten that plastic base to the manifold are.

same for ckra

What are the possible causes of this? I know there’s a lot, but i didn’t feel any loss of power or hear anything weird when the lights came on. Originally it was just the flashing glow plug light, but then I parked, restarted the car and the check engine light was on now too. Any insight?

Hello, I just bought a one owner 2013 JSW TDI with 156k miles for $4500. Car needed the 2.0 TDI major service, HPFP (starting to produce low pressure non catastrophic failure), timing belt, water pump, ECT. I was informed the car has some moderate rust on the suspension, undercarriage, though no significant pitting on the frame rails. Struts and shocks will likely need replaced in the near future. I didn't do the timing belt and HPFP myself so I couldn't do the CP3 upgrade unfortunately. So essentially I'm into the car for around $7500 all in after the service. Cars pretty mint otherwise and really like it. I'm leaning towards keeping the car, though I'm curious if there's any input on if I should get as much as I can selling it to either find an example that's completely free of rust or find a different vehicle platform. I live in Arizona so the rust hopefully won't increase super fast. Emissions system was replaced by VW at 85k miles so no issues yet with that system. I live in a location where I don't need emissions so I could do a DPF/EGR Delete in the future though thats more money put into the car. I'd appreciate any input from the community.

Is it worth getting my car deleted after warranty along with a tune, cuz i’m avg 35-40 miles a tank right now and diesel is currently cheaper than gas in my area(California).

Have a 2014 JSW and nothing is wrong with my emissions components yet

Hey guys, my TDI is experiencing a loss power going uphill. I'm almost sure it because of the egr valve being clogged up.

I have two options, mechanic which would charge me around 240 euros for two hours, plus whatever part that needs to be replaced or buying some turbo cleaner and give it a try

The issue with the spray option is that I'm not sure where to spray it.

I think I'm supposed to unite the pointed part and spray it there right?

https://ibb.co/Nny38vP

Looking to purchase this vehicle but have never owned or really known anything about VW vehicle. Is this a good purchase? Should I be aware of any major issues that might pop up?

It has about 75k miles and selling for 15k

I drive a 2013 VW Jetta TDI. I’m in the middle of South Dakota and there is an issue with my EGR system causing underboost. If I’m not hearing or seeing any signs of a faulty turbo and drive at a moderate speed/keep my RPMs low is it safe for my turbo to drive until I can get to a mechanic?

I've recently adopted a '11 Golf Wagon TDI from my family, 212k km's on it. It's got the original belt in it and dsg hasn't been changed in 85k km.

So I recently learned how dangerous this was for my engine and did a deep dive and learned how vital the timing belt is, and how important it is to do this job right. I'm having quite the time trying to find a shop to these jobs well.

VW Dealership nearby has quoted 1400 for timing belt, but this doesn't include rollers, serp belt tensioner, or new hardware for water pump. A big red flag for me when I asked about changing the HPFP and Cam bolts and they told me it would be an extra $280 in labour plus parts to do that. I've watched enough videos to know that replacing the 6 bolts should not be that difficult.

The other shops i'm talking to, their kits don't include these item either. Is it just me or is that crazy? Or would they have seen it during the job and just added it on later?

Instead I think my plan is to buy a Roseland Tech TB Kit with a serp tensioner, get some VW TB tools from amazon, and get my usual shop to do the labour. They aren't VW specialists but the car had been taken there for a number years before I got it and they are fair and transparent.

At the same time I was going to get a simple dsg kit from amazon with the drain adaptor and get them to do it at the same time.

Is this a good plan? It's filled me with anxiety talking to shops, especially VW, and then having to ask for these parts to be specifically included. Like aren't they the experts?

https://roselandtech.ca/timing-belt-kit-bundle-cbea-cjaa

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BGPR1HW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A23UD1NS9XDZHX&psc=1

^ links for kits ^

TL/DR: Is it a good plan to buy a Roseland Tech Timing Belt Kit, an amazon Pentosin dsg kit, and get a local shop to do it. What is a reasonable quote for these jobs?

Prices are in CAD