I have a 2003 Ford expedition. I replaced the EGR valve and had to take off two vacuum lines hard lines that go to the throttle body to replace the EGR. After replacing the EGR I forgot to put the vacuum lines back on. Took the truck for a test drive and it ran better then it had since I have gotten it. Still lacking power though. When I got home I popped the hood and realized I forgot to put the vacuum lines back on. I put them back on and test drove it again, it drove like crap. Stopped and unhooked the vacuum lines again, truck ran great. Why? I have left them unplugged, fuel mileage had increased and there is no hesitation. Can anyone please lmk what's going on and if I should leave them unplugged or plug them back into the throttle body. One line goes into the valve cover and the other one goes into the back top of the motor I have no idea what it connects to. They are both big hard lines. Thank you in advance

I'm thinking about taking it to a dealership what question should I ask if do take it in there

I like a few bells and whistles - high spec and economy. Have owned an older Mondeo before which I thought gave me a lot of "bangs per buck".

For those more savvy than me, should I be shopping in the Mondeo camp or Focus camp?

Don't have a big family, so just looking for comfort, reliabilty and economy.

Thank you all, in advance.

Sorry for limited pictures I seen this driving down 696 and moun with a manufacturing plate. Usually the ones without camo are already or almost in production. The front looked like a economy gtr.

Diagnosed a cooling issue for a friend and narrowed it down to this tee leaking coolant. They plan to just take it by a shop tomorrow to have it replaced, however I am curious how these work. It seemed to be pretty chintzy, and would piss coolant when wiggled around. Does not seem good for transporting hot pressurized coolant.

my friend just got a 2004 Ford Focus, and I'm trying to figure out what this notch is for. I know there is a cover for it that is missing too. It's on the right side of the base of the gear shift

Hello, we have a 2008 F-150 that we recently purchased. We have owned the truck for two months. During that time, we noticed that the column gear shifter wouldn’t fully engage without clicking it forward. About five days ago, the gear shift became loose and fell off. I couldn’t change the gear into park, so I left it in drive and put on the emergency brake. We bought a new gear column shifter, and it seemed to be fine.

Yesterday, we took a 700-mile road trip. During that time, the truck felt like it was missing or would jump while driving on the interstate during acceleration or decreased speed. Also, the truck’s electrical system turned off for about 10 seconds and then turned back on. We just thought it was a fluke. Once we turned off the vehicle, it would not start again. It’s not the battery, as we attempted to jump it, and we have changed the neutral safety switch. The shifter cable is frayed; would that cause the engine not to start, and would replacing it solve the issue? Or are there other causes or solutions to consider?

Hey y'all, got a 2017 F150, I have a humming coming from the front end. It gets louder as I accelerate, it quiets down when I turn right, but doesn't get louder when I turn left. Replaced the CV shaft and the Wheel Hub Assembly (noise was there before both of them were replaced) any ideas would be appreciated it!

Okay so I put a set of 245/65 r17. On the original stock car . And now that i added a roughy country 1.5” lift I feel like I can get away with a bigger tier because of all the space I still have. I’m thinking I could go up to 250/70. But does anyone on here actually have anything bigger than the 245/65? Thank you friends.!

I have a 2015 Ford F350, the guy before me put aftermarket LES tail lights on it. All the lights kind of work however, it has no reverse lights, the blinkers blink fast and thet also blink dim. I checked the fuses and bulls

For some context I'm 17 and have an automatic 89 f250 custom that I use as my daily driver. The truck runs well enough for being as old as it is. Recently, when im driving and try to go into reverse or park, the truck acts like it's in neutral for around 30 seconds then changes gears. The truck has transmission fluid but beither me nor my dad have enough experience to deal with somehting like this. Im asking on here because the truck belonged to my grandfather who passed a couple of years ago and we want to keep it in the family as long as possible. If anyone could give any insight on my issue that would be amazing.

How does the Bronco Sport Badlands hold up vs Lincoln Corsair?

My mother is searching for a new car and liked the Badlands, but her husband wants a luxury model like the Lincoln Corsair.

I believe badlands is the top trim but he thinks it looks chintzy.

Is the Corsair that much nicer or would Bronco Sport be a nice car?

I am selling my grandfathers 1915 Model T for him and I’m wondering if anyone on here could give me some advice on the value and what I should list it for. I honestly know nothing about these cars. Thank you in advance to anyone who can help! Here is everything i know about it.

1915 Ford Model T touring with functional Ruckstell two-speed rear axle. Vehicle starts and runs and drives but needs some attention to make it road worthy. Transmission belts could be adjusted brakes work but city driving is challenging and not advised with current original brakes. Magnetos are not functional so driving distance is limited to battery charge. Vehicle is complete to the best of my knowledge, has been in the family for decades. Loss of storage forces sale, vehicle has always been garage stored but the space is no longer available. Would be an easy project as most of what it needs is just time as all parts are accounted for and systems all work. Just needs someone with the time and knowledge tune it up.

My 2010 ford escape 3.0l has been sitting for a little over a year and just got around to fixing the belt and doing an oil change.

Everything was going smooth until I noticed the passenger rear blinker light is out. I went up to auto zone and bought a replacement bulb and still nothing. I tried replacing the plastic connecting bit with the bulb with the working driver side one and still not working.

I’m not confused what the next step would be in figuring it out. Is there a fuse that would effect just one light? Any ideas?

My neighbor needs help identifying this part on his 1970 Ford F600. Any help would be appreciated.

I installed a few accessory lights on my rear bumper a few years ago on my 2017 f250. These were white LEDS to serve as rear spot lights on my AUX 2 switch. I also connected them to my fog light strobes on AUX 3 and reverse lights. One day they stopped working on aux 2 and stop flashing on aux 3 but still work with the reverse lights. Can anyone help?

I have a 2007 Ford Focus hatchback. We live in the Pacific Northwest. Every year when the temperatures drop to the 50s and below, my horn honks without prompting.

The car will be locked, off, and the horn just goes off multiple times, back to back very fast, for minutes at a time. It's as if someone is in the car furiously honking. This does not happen in warmer weather.

It's been like this for three years, this will be year four. The only thing that stops it is to fully unhook the battery. Doing that every day makes it difficult for the car the start though. And we have changed the battery around year two, but that didn't fix it.

I've been to multiple mechanics and no one can figure it out. How do I make this stop??

TLDR I have a car demon.

My 2008 mk7 has a leak. Somewhere.

Spare wheel well fills with water. Boot carpet is soaked. Car is damp (and going mouldy!)

Side walls / carpet in the boot are dry.

I can see some moisture in the highlighted areas above, including the boot seal and the first inch or so of the roof liner is very slightly damp.

No signs of damp near the electrical connections that I can see.

Boot seal seems OK and still flexible. No damage.

Any advice on where else I should be looking? If I'm going to start taking bits out the car I'd like to at least take he right bits out!

Thanks

Salute to all Ford car owners and lovers.I recently bought a 5-year-old vehicle, 60,000 km, under a 1-year warranty and I have a question for you.What could be the cause of this sound from the right side of the engine? Rattling sound disappears when clutch pedal is pressed.The authorized service replaced the complete clutch set with a recommendation to repair the gearbox because metal shavings were found in the gearbox oil and I have light vibrations when I start in first gear.Have any of you had similar experiences and how did you solve it? Thanks in advance.

https://reddit.com/link/1go0r3o/video/92ryphokt20e1/player

I have checked the bulb, they're working fine but there's no power when I test with, I've forgotten what that things is called. High beams work fine. Fuses appear to be fine too. What else could v be the issue?

Looking to purchased a Ford edge for our next vehicle and wanted to see what the pulse is on them. They seem decent enough but if they are prone to issues, I would love to know beforehand.

They are advertising 5.9% for 60 months, which is not worth advertising TBH.

Looking at an Explorer and VW has 0.9% for 60 months on the comparable Atlas

My father needs to drive cycle his F-150

It’s a 2019 F-150 XLT Sport with the 5.0L V8.

I found one or two sites that are general drive cycle instructions for ford. I found one site that explained how to drive cycle a 2004 but nothing for a 2019.