Got in car for work, drove 20 feet, transmission started slipping BAD. after a mile or so, the check engine light came on. it’s had problems switching gears and would occasionally shake, but it’s never done this. Any ideas??

I recently acquired a 2011 Lincoln MKX. I’m loving it so far and despite its age, it’s an upgrade from what I was driving before.

Everything works well except I’m having some issues with the back up camera. It works probably every 1/3 time I put the vehicle into reverse and when it does work, there aren’t any grid lines. If I get too close to another vehicle I do hear the warning beeps (even if the feed isn’t showing). The rest of the time nothing appears on the screen or I get a message saying “Camera is unavailable. Please contact your dealership”.

I’ve tried disconnecting the camera, cleaning the connections and reconnecting. I’ve upgraded the Sync software to the latest version. I tried replacing the backup camera fuse. I’ve also tried disabling and reenabling the backup guides.

Is there anything else I can try? Thanks!

Hello everyone,

I have gone through the gauntlet with my 2010 escape 3.0L for a/c issues including multiple ruptured dessicant bags clogging the system, blower motor resistor failures, radiator fans breaking, new compressors, leaks and now the ac is blowing hot again! A new baby on the way means I need to get it fixed ASAP.

I bought a manifold gauge to try and troubleshoot. At 60°F and idle RPM the low side is 12 -13 psi and the high side at 160-180 psi. It will occasional spike with low to 18 psi and high to 220 psi that will eventually go back down to the steady state values above. When the compressor engages there is a weird/louder almost grinding engine noise especially at higher rpms coming from the compressor area. I’m not sure how hot compressors are supposed to get, but it was definitely hot to the touch.

Replacing the serpentine belt, tensioner, and compressor clutch didn't fix the issue.

Am I looking at another exploded dessicant bag that has clogged the expansion valve or is this conducive of something else? Would the fix be to evacuate, replace the drier and expansion valve and recharge? Any need to flush the system? Should I get a vacuum pump for the fix?

Thanks for the help!

I just took this truck out for a test drive, it is listed on Facebook marketplace, has 106,00 miles, and the buyer is willing to sell it for $14k. There is some hail damage on the hood and the front and back bumper has minor damage. There were not any engines problems as far as I could tell, no rust, good brakes, no oil leaking, etc. The owner is a retired high school teacher and walked me through the car facts and was very honest with me. The only issues I saw were the front tires did not have a ton of wear left on them, the coolant needed to be flushed and replaced, and the oil was about due for a change according to his sticker. I don’t like the bed cover or the seat protectors he put on either.

Is this a good deal? Could I ask for less? He had it listed at $15,750 at first but made it seem like he would not take less than $14,000.

Hello! Kinda new to the ford world, more of a german car guy but have fallen in love with this car. I have recently replaced my passenger side Headlight, and DRL on that side only doesn’t seem to work. I have changed the little computer it has, swapped it with a new one or the drivers headlight’s computer and but no change. Have tried the drivers headlight on the passengers housing, works. So I’m assuming the wires are not at fault, and has something to do with the computer. Plugged the obd to look for codes, I have attached them. And resetted the BCM but no luck. I would really appreciate it if anyone has an idea as to what may be the problem and how to fix it. I would be really grateful :)

Can anybody identify this part with the buckled cap? It's a Mondeo 2013 mk4 2.0l tdci duratorq 140

I’m planning to go to Iowa to buy a Ford Super Duty. I’m also headed to my local RMV tomorrow to enquire if I will have to pay a tax penalty or extra taxes for buying my truck out of state. Interestingly, I purchased a used vehicle from MA in the past but at that time, I used to live in NY so I registered my vehicle at the RMV in NY - paid sales tax etc. In 6 months when I moved back home to MA the local RMV made me pay sales tax AGAIN on the same vehicle. I was informed that because I purchased the vehicle from MA so I owed sales tax to MA irrespective of the fact that I already paid sales tax on this vehicle in NY. Weirdest experience . I am just curious to hear experiences from redditors of MA who purchased their trucks from Granger Ford .

Thanks !!!

Hey everyone,

I'm in a real bind and could use some guidance. About a month ago, my trusty 2013 Ford Escape SEL AWD with around 140,000 miles decided to give up on me while I was driving home from a mountain trip. It started with deceleration and ended up coming to a complete stop. After getting it towed and diagnosed at Ford, the news wasn't good.

Here's the rundown: multiple cylinder misfires, oil leaking from valves into the cylinders, and the cherry on top, the need for a new long block engine along with replacement of purge valves among other fixes. The bill for all this is a staggering $14,000. However, thanks to my Ford warranty, it's been brought down to $7,000, but here's the kicker: I still owe $9,000 on the car and can't just scrap this one for a new one.

I've tried exploring every option. I asked about using a restored engine to save some money, but unfortunately, they quoted me for a new one instead. Financially, I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. I don't have the funds to pay off the remaining balance on the car and scrap it to buy a new one, nor do I have the $7,000 lying around to get it fixed right away.

I've already exhausted some resources like getting the oil changed the day before this fiasco, purchasing a new battery a few months back, getting it checked out just a week prior, and even investing in three new tires since I've had this car.

So, here I am, reaching out for any and all advice or opinions. Is there any way to negotiate the repair bill down further? Are there creative solutions to help cover the cost? Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated. I'm feeling a bit lost and overwhelmed right now, so any support would mean the world to me. Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and offer your help. 🙏🏼

I’m not able to find anything that looks similar in their catalog or for sale so I’m assuming it’s a custom paint job/wrap. Can anyone confirm?

I recently got a 2014 ford ka as my first car and am unable to get spotify to play through the aux cable from my iPhone 13- is this just something the car can’t do?

So I logged into the account manager to do my payment for this month and the thing says my payment isn’t due until the end of next month. Should I take them at their word or assume it’s a mistype?

I'm looking for some advice as Ive never owned a classic ford and I'm looking to buy one and import it from South Africa to the UK (as they are right hand drive).

The vehicle I'm looking at which is 1976 F100, supposedly it has a 4.9L i6.

I was asking the guy whether it's a 300 or a 240 as I only really want a 300 as there is so much aftermarket support for the engine.

Unfortunately says he 'thinks' it's a 240 which has put me off.

Should I avoid a 240 or would it be something I could have some fun with?

Just trying to understand what’s going on with my truck, and how this happened.

2021 F150 XLT, BCM died while out camping. Leaving out a lot of info but had it towed to the dealer and they confirmed my diagnosis and failed the BCM. Replace it and all the BCM controlled functions began working again. Part of the replacement is obviously programming it and updating software of the BCM to match my truck.

During programming the BCM, IPC and GWM programming failed. None of them will complete programming and now the truck is worse off before the BCM replacement.

Not asking for a diagnosis, but I’m trying to find out their process. Why was the IPC and GWM given software updates? I suspect the GWM was to fix the IPC failing updates, but after multiple attempts none of these modules are successfully updating and truck is deader than dead.

When replacing the BCM, is there a need to update program the IPC or GWM? Wouldn’t a tech just program my BCM with server data for my vin and install in? From what I’m gathering the IPC and GWM updates that failed are what’s killed my truck, and I’m just not sure there was a need to update those modules, but I am not a ford tech.

I confirmed with dealer that the software updates were only to do the BCM replacement, NOT updating my truck to most current software in all the modules.

TLDR - is there a need to update/program IPC and GWM for a BCM replacement?

Thanks all!

Hi guys, I'm driving a Ford Kuga Mk1 2008 and my display turns off. It doesn't really turn off. The light is on, it just doesn't show anything. I'm about to sell my car and it's pretty bad that potential buyers can't even see the mileage 😅 Sometimes it's all fine, then it disappears, then it comes back again... Did anybody have the same case? I already changed the car battery, because it was old. Everything else works properly.

I’m not sure what to search for since it’s not the main color and I’m not sure if they made cars that are this color all around, but I want to get matching stripes.

My truck’s configuration is the crew cab with the short bed. Makes no sense to me why they would say it’s “only” for the 7.3L gas engine.

Reason I want to get this is I travel for work a lot, so if I can extend my range, that would be pretty sick.

I stripped the oil filter cap on my 2019 f15 diesel and there’s not much online about the truck and I cannot find the oil filter cap.

Hi all. I have a 2020 Ford F-150 5.0L V8. I have noticed it has recently started shaking (a very little) when idling, whether I’m parked or at a stoplight. The RPMs sometimes vary. Is this something I need to get looked at? I have warranty. 53,000 miles.

I ordered raptor R over two years ago. It finally came in on Wednesday. I wasn’t able to take it for a test drive because according to the dealership they had to change a few fluids the next day when I was going over to do the paperwork I found out they had stolen the truck right off the lot. They left the truck outside the keys on some hook outside and the gates open they ended up finding the truck out six hours later hidden in some barn. I’ve asked my dealer about ordering a new one according to them they don’t have anymore allocations I’m not really sure how to proceed. Hopefully somebody can point me in the right direction because I’ve been waiting two years for my dream truck just to get it stolen the next day.

(Update)

Thank you everyone that has share and uped the post hopefully this gets to Ford corporate and they do something this thread was never to bash the dealership or the people in charge it was to inform potential buyers and to get the attention from ford corporate I will give an update Monday that’s when I’m supposed to meet the dealership. I am not trying to get anyone fired who is innocent

(Update 2)

I was able to get in contact with Mike Levine N. America Product Communications Director hopefully this gets resolved soon thanks everyone for the support

God bless

Hi I came to this subreddit to see if anyone knows anything about removing and replacing mounting plates for my front bumber they are bent and I need new ones but don’t know exactly how to replace them I am wondering if it requires welding or just bolts please let me know the model number is a 2009 to 2014