My daughter inherited a '95 Jeep from her grandpa with 82,000 original miles on it. 6 cylinder, 4L, Multipoint Fuel Injection, Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4WD. Heater wasn't working but we drove it 3,000 miles from Baja and it started running rough the last 500 miles. We got the heater working again when we got home. And now finally took it in to a shop I trust to assess engine issues. They said it was only 25% compression in two of the cylinders and needed head and valve gasket repair for $1800. (I think I translated mechanic speak correctly.)

Daughter wants 4-wheel drive because she lives in rural area with lots of winter snow and rough muddy dirt roads in the spring. It looks like maybe there was a coolant(?) leak at one point in the passenger foot well that contributed to the heater going out. Otherwise all of the upholstery is in great condition, dash, headliner, exterior body, etc. There is no rust anywhere and it doesn't seem to be leaking oil. My dad wasn't a car guy though so it's not that he took extra special care of it. He performed basic maintenance and just didn't use it all the much.

Our base cost for this vehicle is $0. So starting from zero, does it seem reasonable to make the repairs and keep the car or just sell it for scrap and move on? What are some likely scenarios of other issues that might go hand in hand with the cylinder compression issues that are currently being masked due to the current issues?

TIA for your input!

Took this with tonight's crazy moon.

Has anyone been able to program a base level key fob for a JL using jscan? I go through the process and it instructs you to push the unlock button as part of the process. My problem is the key fob I’m programming doesn’t have lock/unlock buttons. Is there a work around for this? Thanks in advance

Hi all, 2022 Jeep Compass, no codes or lights. 3 days ago noticed as I got off the highway and came to a red light I felt my heat go from a toasty heat to a cooler, but not cold air - but cool enough to undo the toastiness of the heat. It also made me realize -which may or may not be relevant, that my auto start hasn’t been activating for I don’t know how long.

This has continued since

As I start driving and as long as I’m in motion I get heat and the heat goes away when I stop and cool air is blown in.

I’ve also noticed that my oil temp hasn’t reached the halfway point on the gauge- again not sure if it’s relevant or not but it’s slightly under halfway while I’ve always noticed it staying halfway usually.

It’s under warranty so I’m not concerned but if like to know what could cause it as it’s weird.

Thanks!

Got into a bit of a tight spot and backed into a tree. Tail light housing will be easy to fix but, curious if anyone knows how to pull that metal back out. I'm a good mechanic but I'm no body man lol. I'd probably just do my best with a crescent wrench and repaint it. I am open to other suggestions

My wife is wanting this done on her JL. I'd like to see some pics of how it turns out.

2014 Jeep Patriot. Red electronic throttle control light comes on randomly. Any ideas as to what's causing this?

https://preview.redd.it/y86f40wfu41e1.jpg?width=480&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1594fc31e368e673db0a482c57d8437a27e7292f

This light.

When it comes on, sometimes it feels like the Jeep jumps forward a little. Sometimes it feels like it goes limp, but doesn't fully stop or die. Also, the passenger side turn signal started to go very fast.

Not sure what's going on. Just started today.

Hi all, just a quick question about O2 sensors specifically on a TJ- would an NGK / NTK sensor be labeled as such? The plugs for the sensors that are currently on my jeep seem to be labeled as "tygo" or "tyco" very small print so I can't be sure. The wires seem fairly new so I am just trying to ID the sensors in case they are a brand that shouldn't be in there

I've got a head unit for a Patriot and the aux jack only works if you press on the cable (also tried different cables). Taking it apart and looking for a replacement jack I could solder in, it seems that the design of the jack is not typical. Does anyone know where I could get a replacement jack for it?

Testing with the ohm meter, it seems like this a a normally open TRS jack, which is also rare, but then the design/orientation is seemingly impossible to find.

Thanks for any help.

picture taken from right under the drivers side door; what is this and why does it keep making the most god awful “rattling noise”?

New ball joints (moog) is it normal for this much to be exposed? My stepdad thinks it has to go up another 1/4 inch does it? And if he does move it will there be any issues?

I know there are a ton of slip-on seat warmers on Amazon, but most of them are from alphabet soup Chinese brands that I don't really trust with heating elements involved. Any good, reliable brands/suggestions? If they come as a pair that's fine, but I really only need one for my wife.

Hey everyone! I have a 2024 JT, and was curious what I should consider to help maintain the engine and make it safer to keep out of warranty should I decide to do so?

I just saw a repair bill of $2000+ shared on here and would like to avoid that if possible.

It wasn’t like this when I got it, but the mechanic is saying it’s always lit it, but not active (which makes no sense to me)

Hi all, new here.

My wife has a 2017 Jeep Cherokee. It was unexpectedly dead this morning, and once jumped and driven to O'Reilly's, the battery tested bad. Tech there said there's some involved process to replacing the battery that has to do with the auto start-stop system? Not 100% sure on the details, I'm going off phone tag. Can ask her for specifics if needed.

Anyway, does anyone know anything about this/is it necessary or just fluff? A quick Google search wasn't conclusive for me; some people said it was just to keep stuff like radio settings from resetting but I wasn't sure.

Obviously I'd prefer to just swap out the battery at home, but I've never had to do that on a car newer than '06 so idk if new cars need fancy stuff 🤷

https://preview.redd.it/cptm66dws21e1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ecd3879782ee224ae085cde1d7e312f2f1d05670

I've been wanting to try this for a while, and the grinding noise coming from my rear end was a great opportunity. Lots of old forum posts claim that the Gladiator JT, Wrangler JL, and JK/U rear brakes are interchangeable. The JL Rubicon with HD brakes has a 1 inch bigger rotor than stock JK, and the JT is 1.2 inches bigger, .4 thicker and vented instead of solid. The JT caliper piston is also 3mm bigger. Biggest worry was of they would fit inside my 17 inch steel rims(-6mm offset), but they did fit with maybe 3/16 to spare. Only downside is the new parts are hard to see behind the steel rim. On the upside it was only $320 for all the parts.

Pics: https://www.reddit.com/user/kratz9/comments/1grx8j2/new_brakes/

Forum thread with brake comparison: https://www.wranglerforum.com/threads/gladiator-jt-rear-brakes-fit-on-jk.2418439/

2021 GC and 5000 out of warranty. FML

Hi all! I’m currently in a 2019 Dodge Charger R/T and looking to get out of it soon for a few reasons;

• I have a toddler and it’s hard getting her in and out of her car seat. Only getting harder the bigger she gets.
• The car seems to be falling apart at the seams. Dashboard is curling in multiple spots, it’s got a weird grinding noise in the rear end, the headliner is peeling at all of the doors, etc.

I was in a Dodge Challenger for 7 years prior to the Charger. It had its issues but not near what this Charger does. It seems that either Dodge or Stallantis has some quality issues.

That being said, I really like the look of the Grand Cherokee. My concern is that since it’s a brand owned by Stallantis I’m going to end up with another car that’s coming apart. Was hoping to get some feedback from current Grand Cherokee owners on pros and cons, if you’ve noticed any quality issues like I described above or anything else I should be considering while I’m researching.

Thanks in advance!

Hi, can anyone help me diagnose what is going on with my jeep? it’s a 2012 jku sahara. it idles a little rough, it’ll die randomly (rpm drops to zero), and sometimes when it dies the tc light comes on and the cel flashes. it also kinda lurches a little when i accelerate (the c121c code i think). Here are the codes it’s throwing:

P0335 (crankshaft position sensor circuit. replaced the crankshaft position sensor just over 2 years ago) P0152 (O2, 2/1. Replaced once about a two years ago and then about 6-8 months ago) P0300 and P0305 (multi cylinder misfire and cylinder 5 misfire respectively) C121C (Torque Request Signal Denied)

Currently i’m thinking it’s likely a wiring issue. Can someone help?

Hi all, so I have a 2005 WK, I'm currently rocking standard size 245-65-R17's I have the rough country 2 inch lift but needing new tires. Does anyone have any knowledge with tire sizes. I am wanting 245-70-R17's but am weary of the upper ball joint and touching it with the tire causing an unwanted rub. So my question is would the bigger tires fit without fabricating that ball joint but or should I shave it down?