Hi guys, im from Brazil and new member on this community. I need to know more about the diesel engines on Discovery Sport, soon i will buy a 2016 Discovery. What do yoy recomend? 2.2 diesel Duratorq or 2.0 diesel ingenium? Here in Brazil the 2.2 is more famous ‘cause this engine is in use in many ford vehicles for about fifteen year.

Have the wife’s ‘21 Disco Sport in the dealership for a battery test and replacement under warranty. They gave us a 25 DS (Petrol) for a loaner. Ours is an SE and this one is an R-Dynamic but just an S. Noticed neither have a heads-up display, which I find odd because I have a beauty of one in my 2016 BMW X3 (35i Msport, so top of the line for that year of a X3) but anyways, I don’t think I like the lack of the manual buttons. As short persons, I know we would struggle with the screen and reaching over. I had issues today. Also the black interior is not as inspired as our beige leather and the console around the gear shifter is just black and boring. But it’s still a beaut of a ride, that’s for sure.

My 2011 Freelander 2 has a battery drain. Local garage has done investigation and come up blank. Checking all fuses and even using heat camera to check relays etc. They suspect it might be a faulty module but have advised finding it might be very time consuming (£££). So, the idea is to fit a remote battery disconnect switch. Has any got experience with these or can recommend if this is a cheap option to get over the battery drain?

There’s just something about the simplicity and ruggedness of these old Land Rovers. They’re not the fastest or most comfortable, but they’re built to go anywhere – and they’ve got character for days.

I’d love to hear your thoughts, tips, or suggestions! If you’ve built something similar or have experience with Series 3s, I’m all ears. Also, if anyone’s interested, I can share more photos and updates as the build progress, eventually it will be the ultimate Expedition home.

https://youtu.be/9tzkJi0YEh4?si=NlEyDdwgOnLZUn2s

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Hello, has anyone had issues with the headliner leaking? It just started yesterday and I've never had issues before. I'm not sure if this would be a windshield problem or sunroof drain issue. It's winter so I haven't used the sunroof for a few months so not sure why now it's having issues. I keep it in a heated garage so I don't think there is any ice buildup. Any input would be appreciated!

Hi everyone! The AC in my 2018 Disco Sport wasn’t working. When I sent it to the shop, they told me they unplugged the fan’s cable, cleaned them up, plugged them back in, and it started working again. The thing is, they charged me £300 for it! Did I get ripped off or would you expect to pay something similar?

Hi everyone! I’m looking into doing my own oil change. I got the filter and everything but I saw some people talking about the oil change pump. It is ok to abstract the oil that way? Is it better manually? I really would like to try the pump method but I would like to hear from all of you recommendations!

Hello,

I’m hoping to get a bit of information on the timing changing on the 2016 LR4. I’ve fallen in love with the vehicle but I’m a bit nervous about having a 10k bill. Does the 2016 have the same timing chain issues as the older models?

Talk me in or out of this purchase, ideally in.

Thank you!

I tried to start my discovery earlier and nothing happened when I pushed the start button. The display/instruments didn't light up and the engine didn't crank. The car didn't display any message at all, where usually it may say something like "key fob not detected".

The car had been working perfectly an hour beforehand, giving no warning notifications. And I turned it off as usual, it didn't just die while I was using it.

It's a 2018 if that makes a difference. Has anyone encountered this before?

Malibu

2016 Land Rover Discovery Sport Auto 2.0 Diesel 7-seater

Purchased in 2023 for €24k - Ireland is the Cuba of Europe because of Brexit / Left hand driving.

I got an out of warranty engine replacement directly from Land Rover due to a manufacturing issue with the timing chain. A fully new engine and turbo. With documents included and warranty on the engine.

Prior to the engine replacement, the best price I can get for the car was €10k, because the 2.0 diesel engine is a POS and dealerships want nothing to do with it.

With the new engine, what price can I expect for my vehicle?

I’m not sure if this is the right place to ask, and I understand that many factors affect a car’s price, but this was my first car, and I have no idea how to value it. Especially given it's unique circumstances. I’m hoping other Land Rover owners can offer some guidance.

I’ve been interested in getting a Land Rover and based on research, the lr3 seems like a good entry point. I’ve been looking around my area and found this listed. Really thinking about getting it. I was wondering if y’all think this is a good deal.

Any advice on what to look for appreciated, though there is definitely a wealth of such advice in previous posts that I am looking through. Thank yall!

https://melendezautosales.com/vehicles/6991312-2007-Land%20Rover-LR3/

Been looking to purchase a disco 3/4 LR3/4 and have seen a 3 with 150k miles on and it’s relatively cheap, anything major I should be looking for when I go to check it over / test drive.

Seller says they have limited history of servicing, but major stuff has been done?

Hey everyone,

I usually post on a LR specific forum, but I'm utterly stuck at the moment and am going for broad reach. So, I'm crossposting this in as many LR forums as I can think of.

I’m at a bit of a crossroads with my 2002 Land Rover Discovery 2 and could use some expert advice. If I can’t get this sorted, I’ll likely have to sell it out of state since I can’t pass California emissions, which is frustrating because it runs great otherwise. Hoping someone here can help crack this mystery.

The Problem:

• On cold start, the engine revs up to 2500 RPM, then settles below 1000 RPM after a couple of minutes. This is a new issue that wasn’t happening before replacing the CPS
• The O2 monitor won’t set (all others have). The O2 heater monitor has set, but the O2 monitor itself remains incomplete. This prevents me from passing emissions in California.
• No other driveability issues—the truck runs and drives fine, aside from the high idle on startup. I took it to a local british car shop and the guy there told me that it's just a matter of running through the drive cycles. I've run through them for about 1200 miles and no results.

What I’ve Done (Major Work & Replacements):

• Replaced:
  • MAF (OEM)
  • IAC (OEM)
  • TPS (OEM)
  • Throttle body (OEM) and valve plate (original was fine but swapped it anyway)
  • PCV valve (upgraded to metal)
• Performed Maintenance:
  • Coolant flush (Zerex G40 Si-HOAT, 50/50)
  • Differential oil change (Valvoline synthetic 75W140, upgraded to brass plugs)
  • Transfer case oil change (Valvoline synthetic 75W140)
  • Brake fluid flush (Pentosin Super DOT 4)
  • Oil & filter change (Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic 15W-40)
  • Power steering flush (Pentosin CHF 11S)
  • Replaced spark plugs (NGK Iridium IX) & wires (Karlyn STI 8mm)
  • Installed Extinct's inline 180-degree thermostat (runs about 185ish)
  • Brand new Odyssey AGM battery
• Completed Drive Cycles (Multiple Times)
  • All other monitors have set, but the O2 monitor refuses to.
  • I reset adaptive values **after replacing MAF (**P0101 code persists after going through two MAFs, second one is Bosch), TPS (tried three of them, including a remanufactured one from Rovers North), and IAC (both cleaned the original, and bought an aftermarket from Miami British), and I've completed drive cycles A-D multiple times exactly per the RAVE. I've got them on a clipboard on my dash and have been getting up at 5:00AM and running through them with a timer.
  • Driven ~1200 miles attempting to get the O2 monitor to set.

What Might Be the Culprit?

• Vacuum Leak? I’ve checked, but it’s worth another round of testing.
• Throttle Body or IAC Sticking? Both are new OEM, but maybe it’s possible something isn’t seating right.
• CPS Wiring Issue? This all started after the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) was replaced. I broke the clip on the wiring harness, took it to a shop, and they replaced the CPS and installed a new wire connector. Could this be related?
• Secondary Air Injection (SAI) Valve Sticking Open? Could be injecting excess air during startup, causing the high idle and preventing the O2 monitor from setting. Anyone have experience diagnosing a stuck-open SAI?
• Long-Term Fuel Trims Out of Range? I'm not sure what I should be looking for to know if that's an actual problem
• Exhaust Leak? A small leak before the O2 sensor could be preventing the monitor from completing.

What I’m Looking For:

• Advice on solving this once and for all.
• Whether isolating the secondary air system would help diagnose the problem.
• Best way to manually reset TPS adaptation (beyond just resetting adaptive values).
• Insight into whether the CPS wiring could cause these symptoms.
• And possibly most important: If you know the best LR technician around and that person happens to be somewhere near me (I'm in California USA half way between LA & San Francisco), a referral.

Plan B – Selling the Truck (Out of State Only)

If I can’t get this resolved, I’m reluctantly looking to sell it to someone who doesn’t have to worry about California emissions. Here’s what you’d be getting with this 109k mile Blue D2 SD:

• Clean Title, No Accidents, No Rust – 20+ years California-owned
• Well-Maintained, Regular Servicing Documented (Carfax history available)
• Extras Included:
  • Nanocom Evolution Rover-Specific Diagnostic Tool (with unlock code for the V8 Bosch engine)
  • Original throttle body (good condition)
  • Extra Mahle oil filter & drain plug
  • Assorted spare o-rings, bolts, etc.
• Other Upgrades:
  • AB braided steel brake lines (set up for 2” lift, currently running stock height)
  • Completed option B fix to eliminate the three amigos
  • Solid steel lug nuts (eliminates the stock ones that deform)
  • Disco 1 windshield washer arms (allows use of standard wiper blades)
  • Brand new set front, rear, way back of the nice heavy rubber LR floor mats

Caveats:

• Check Engine Light is on due to incomplete O2 monitor after resetting adaptive values.
• Head Gaskets are Fine – No leaks, no overheating, negative combustion leak test. Considered preemptively replacing them when doing valve cover gaskets but saw no signs of failure.
• Transmission Fluid & Filter Not Changed – Shifts fine, so I left it alone.

Price: Open to offers, but lowballs will be ignored. I’m not thrilled to sell it, but if I can’t get the O2 monitor to set, it’s got to go. Hoping someone here has insight that will save me from that fate.

Thanks in advance!

As I mentioned, I'm gonna cross post this on a couple other forums for maximum visibility.

In the process of searching for my first classic RR. Torn between a P38 or a late first gen. Have heard that if you’re new to it and not super familiar with the mechanicals, that a P38 might be the smarter option. Curious to thoughts on this.

Additionally, when chatting with sellers of classics, what would be the top questions to ask in every scenario? What would I want to make sure of before i take the leap?!

Thanks in advance — go easy on me, just a guy w a lifelong dream of a classic cruising with my dog in the passenger…

So I've been doing my research and I'm preparing to get tires for my LR4 in the immediate future. I have the wheels in hand which are the the Nomad Sahara in 18x8 ET44 and I’m stuck between some options both in tire choice and sizing. For sizing I know that the 265/60r18 will be the easiest fit, it’s only slightly larger than my current tire at 30.5” and I should have no rubbing issues or any trouble storing my spare underneath the truck. However, 265/65r18 is a popular option amongst LR3/4 owners and it seems to be the largest we can get without requiring any considerable modifications. There does seem to be the chance of some rubbing and in some cases the spare will be a very tight or even impossible fit, and then there’s the load ratings, to contend with. 60 profile tires seem to be either XL or E rated which is perfect for the LR4, but 65 profile seems to be primarily SL or E rated (with a couple XL options). There are other size options that fit but I don’t want to exceed the 265 width.

Now as to the tire itself, my gut was to go with the BFG KO2 which is tried and true and numerous other owners have fit this tire without issue. The KO3 still isn't available in these sizes unfortunately so that will not currently be an option. But as I’ve been researching, the Falken Wildpeak AT4/W still stands out as a good option, but wouldn’t be viable in 265/65 due to only being SL rated (the LT version will be physically too large). Additionally I was looking at the Cooper Rugged Trek RT which comes in the XL size for the 265/65 size. Another option which I unfortunately don't know much about is the newer Goodyear Duratrac RT, this would be available as an XL rated option in the 265/65 size and based on the metrics it should be comparable in overall size to the KO2. I currently have the Goodyear Duratrac on my 19s in the stock 255/55r19 size (XL rating). I don't dislike these tires but they're not available in my intended size for the 18s. Another option I'm potentially interested in is the Kenda Klever RT, but I can't order it through my preferred tire shop (America's Tire).

Now my usage will be primarily city driving with highway and road trips of course, but I will be taking the LR4 off road as much as I am able to. I do not intend to do extreme rock crawling (though some within the vehicle's limits to be sure) but it will mostly be for trail driving is my estimation for remote camping / fishing purposes. I am still leaning heavily towards the KO2 as the actual tire choice, but I really am having a tough time deciding between the 60 and 65 profile tires. I know actual off-road capability will be almost identical between the two, but I have to admit the additional sidewall of the 65 profile does sound appealing from a durability perspective as well as ability to air down a bit more securely than the 60 profile. Additionally, I do not have any sort of lift rod or suspension modification, just the standard air suspension. I do have a GAP IID tool so I could introduce some lift to the truck, but my desire is to keep the suspension geometry stock and work within the vehicle’s limitations there. I would like to avoid major modifications if possible.

Sorry this wound up being me kind of rambling, but I'd love to hear what others are doing for 18s on their LR3 or LR4.

Hey guys, has anyone put one of those side boxes that come on Defenders on a Discovery 5?

Factory from a Defender, , aftermarket? Doesnt matter. Just wondering if it's possible, and how it's installed. Best I can find are half shady ebay vendors.

And before anyone asks....there wasnt enough cargo space in the Defender 110 (130s werent available yet) so I ordered my Discovery, and I'm a storage space addict.

Hello guys. My Discovery Sport has an oil leak and I am having a hard time finding it. I went to a few shops and each gave me a different opinion. The scariest one was that my turbo was "blown out" they said they would replace it for $4,500 but none of the symptoms they described have happened. I have no loss of power, no smoke, no check engine light, and no weird sounds. If it wasn't for the spots on my drive way I would have never known about it.

The car only drops 1-2 drops of oil when I park it after a drive. I've been checking the oil and it hasn't lost enough oil to have to replenish yet. (btw do these cars not have a gauge for oil pressure? Can't seem to find one) I attached a picture of where I think the source is.

Anything helps guys. Thank you so much!

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