/r/askcarsales
A place to ask professionals in various aspects of the industry your questions. Top level replies are from accounts that have been vetted and flaired.
If you have not decided what car you wish to buy, please use /r/whatcarshouldibuy.
Car salesperson, want to complain about managers and customers? We don't need that at /r/insidecarsales
Can't decide what car you want? Head over to /r/whatcarshouldibuy and get some help.
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Please post the Model, Year, Miles and Trim when asking vehicle-specific questions to help us resolve your issue faster! This should include trim, major options (engine, 2WD/4WD, specific options or add-ons), and an honest evaluation of the condition. Mods reserve the right to remove excessively vague posts that are not clarified within a reasonable time frame.
Please let us know if you are financing or paying cash in regards to a lot purchase, so we can respond with the appropriate information for your situation. As well as what country/state you live in.
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WE WILL NOT DO VIN CHECKS! This Includes CarFax and Autocheck, and MMRs.
We will, however, provide VIN checks for new car rebate compatibility, especially as it pertains to manufacturer pricing plans such as Ford A/D/X/Z-Plan, or FCA Affiliates Rewards Program.
24 Hour Engagement Requirement. If you post a question in this sub and then do NOT engage in the discussion within 24 hours, the thread gets deleted. These context-less threads are a breeding ground for troll activity and they contribute nothing to the overall ability of this sub to impart knowledge on subscribers. We want robust discussions here where people can get the whole picture of a situation. These threads only provide a sliver of context and result in a LOT of assumptions and guesses.
I thought this went without saying but apparently it needs to be said - this is our sub. It was created and is run by people in the car industry. You're allowed to dislike us but if you express that in here you'll be warned. If the behaviour continues you'll be banned. At mods discretion we may skip the warning if we feel you'll never be a valuable participant here. There are hundreds of subreddits you can subscribe to where bashing our profession is welcomed. This is not one of them.
This sub exists for industry professionals, past and retired alike to give consumers advice navigating the car buying process. Non-flaired users, people not in the car industry are welcome to provide additional feedback but keep in mind it is a courtesy. Only verified/flaired industry people are allowed to make top level responses. If your advice is found to be harmful, misleading, incomplete or derisive of our industry (see rule 10) that privilege will be revoked. Some examples of advice that will not be tolerated here include "Never buy a (new) car until you own a house and max out your retirement savings.", "Never buy a car you can't pay for with cash.", "Never buy any aftermarket / add-on products or warranties.", "Leases are bad/Never Lease." or really any other "Frugal" response or absolute.
/r/askcarsales
I’m buying a 2005 toyota Camry from a small, private dealership in VA.
I’m in a different state, but having it shipped to me.
It’s $4,000 and has 175,000 miles. It looks like It’s been really well maintained. The owner of the dealership said they put on a new tailpipe and did the front brakes.
Carfax says there are no previous accidents and over 30 service records. clean title.
There is also a 30 day warranty that will cover 50% of any engine or power train failures.
I’m not able to do an inspection, but everything seems to be checking out. For the price and value, I think I’m willing to take the risks.
Camrys are reliable, and 175k miles is relatively medium amount. I figured if there does end up being a big issue, the car is so cheap and the repairs for Camrys are relatively low.
Anything I should ask or clarify to further protect myself? I was told in another post that I should be cautious of the engine being swapped
Long story short my mother wants to get into a bigger car.
When she told me what they valued her trade I said no, don't do it. They are stealing from her with that trade value.
If she's going to get rid of that car for that price, sell it to me... I'll buy it for my wife.
The dealer said they can facilitate this along with the purchase of her new car with what he called and in and out and find me financing for about $500
Is there any advantage to this as opposed to not going through the dealership and securing financing through my bank?
I signed an agreement to buy a used CR-V today from a Honda dealer. I put down a deposit on the car but haven't taken possession or given them my trade-in (and title).
After leaving I'm feeling like I was pressured into signing for a car I don't really want. The seats weren't particularly comfortable and I'm really feeling it in my back afterwards. I'll go back tomorrow and try the car again with good faith to see if it's something I can deal with, but I don't want to get back problems from a car.
I did not apply for financing and I did not wire them the balance of the car yet. Realistically speaking, can I cancel my purchase of this car?
Vehicle: 2024 Highlander Hybrid XLE Condition: Brand new price: $49,700 total OTD Add ons: NONE
Question: what should I be worried about not being thrown under the bus on the deal?
I was quoted the price by a dealership and few other salesman have told me that this is a too good to be true deal and no way they can offer the same price.
They’ve advised me to take the deal but read the fine prints.
Here’s the worksheet https://imgur.com/a/7m7L4qm
Edit: Financing the vehicle in the state of Texas, USA
So a 2022 Honda, for example at a dealership- listed at 23000. My question is about fees And taxes etc
Would it be disrespectful or obscene to say something like: I will buy and drive that car off the lot today if you can give it to me for 23000 with all the fees included.
Let's just say a 50% down-payment. Thanks!
So this is interesting.
I leased a car about 9 months ago. Vehicle does not charge with a fast charger (electric car) which basically makes it useless to me. I haven’t been able to properly use it since I first brought it to service 45 days ago for this issue. Parts are STILL on back order for the repair.
I contacted the manufacturer regarding a buyback and after about a week and a half, they just turned down my claim.
If I was just a regular consumer, I would drop a demand letter and get an attorney involved to file lemon law however, I work at the dealership where I purchased and service the car as well as sell their products in the finance office.
On one end, as a consumer of the product I feel as though I have the same rights as any other.
On the other, going after the brand I represent I feel is not necessarily a good idea.
Any thoughts on how to proceed?
TLDR: I want to pursue lemon law after my POS was declined a buyback but I work F&I at the dealership where it was purchased and serviced. What do?
Hello, I may be going to the United States for school as an international student and plan on living there in the future. I am a 22-year-old driver with a full license (G) in Canada and 3 years of driving history with no accidents as a secondary driver. I plan on buying my vehicle cash and was looking at CarGurus, autotrader, etc, and was wondering how is buying a vehicle out of state? I noticed price discrepancies can be several thousand (eg from Florida vs Michigan) whereas delivery is only a couple hundred or dollars. My main concern is about insurance. Where I live (Ontario), insurance premiums are high and can be around $800 a month CAD. I was wondering if I purchase a vehicle in Canada would I still be able to get it insured or would I be better off purchasing a vehicle in the US and trying to insure it there? Furthermore, how easy is it to get insured considering that I do not have a history of living in the US? Are there any other requirements? Thank you in advance.
Hello everyone. So I’m interested in buying a new vehicle, pretty set on a 2025 Honda CRV Sports Touring. The dealer websites that identified interest rates increased all of their rates today (Nov 1) compared to the end of October. For example one dealer is showing 6.77% on a 36 month loan, yesterday it was 3.90%.
Is this a function of dealers getting more aggressive on rates as the month goes along because they need to hit numbers late in a month or do rates offered reset monthly and since rates have gone up (10 year treasury as an example - not sure which benchmark is used for auto loans) that it’s just a reset based on the rates market and it’s done at the beginning of the month?
Thanks!
My girlfriend recently got into an accident and her 2016 Chevy equinox was totaled. She doesn’t have GAP insurance, and will most likely have a balance left on her loan once insurance pays what the car is worth. If she finances a new car, can she roll what’s left of her loan into the new car loan?
I’m in NW Indiana and I saw a car for sale in Eastern Illinois. The van is a 99 windstar with 40k miles. My wife and I are curious about buying it, the van just had a 1.2k reduction in price dropping it around $10,000.
We want to go and test drive, but have been getting some weird feelings that this would not be worth a 1 hour drive. Are parts for older cars like this available? Or would we be putting ourselves in the hole to repair?
Is a ford windstar 99 with only 40k miles worth a test drive now?
Cash purchase + Trade in
I am 19, I currently live at home and want to move out. I have a 2021 Kia k5 and its is insured in my name but the title is under my dads name. In order to insure it under my name, I need to refinance it and get on my own insurance. The problem is I am in positive equity and I don’t know what to do, or what the safest way to go about this, please help
My company bought a truck and got a bill of sale and registration from CA, but no Title. The current owner, since we don't have title is not helping out. I called the CA DMV and they said that it is titled in another state a the the seller needs to reach out that state to get the title and properly transfer it to us. This is after several calls to the DMV in CA. Do you know of a cheap way to verify where this is titled, since now the seller is sending pics of a CA Title and the DMV said otherwise. I am so confused. Thanks for your help.
Hello everybody.
I use to sell cars back in 2018 but I haven’t since then. just got a job at a dealership and I don’t know the process to get my sales person license. Do I have to redo the process from scratch or is there a renewal process? This is for California
Thank you.
https://i.ibb.co/gztNDd8/IMG-2212.jpg
I’m buying from a smaller; private dealership.
I believe it’s a free warranty for 30 days.
The way it’s worded seems kinda strange
Hello,
I'm looking to buy a car next month and I am wanting to get a Camaro ss 1le. I'm wondering if there are any tips for buying a car that's a hard to find car, seeing as currently there are maybe 30 for sale nation wide. There's a good chance I'll have to drive or even fly to a dealership because there are very few if any in my state at all. Currently the cars are commonly listed higher than (according to kbb and nada) their worth. I'd take 45k but most are 47-50k. Is there any tips for someone who's after a specific car and traveling to get it? I don't have a trade in so I will be doing a large down-payment (around 40%). Currently I'm located in TX and there is 1 maybe 2 with in my requirements (mileage etc,) but they're all more than I'm comfortable paying.
This car's from the early 2000s. I got it from a family member, who got it from a friend years prior. I've been driving this car for about 10 years now and finally decided to trade it in (long overdue, really, it's a junk car now), only to discover that apparently one of its 5 previous owners never finished paying off their loan for it. From the research I've done, this should mean that the bank they borrowed from should have the title, but that's not the case as it's in my possession. We can't trade it in because of this, and I feel weird about doing a private sale with such a mystery about it. So my question is...
-Firstly, any idea how this could happen?
-What should be my next steps to get rid of this car? Junkyard's always an option, but it would have been nice to get a little money back.
North Carolina store for reference. I’m an F&I manager and new pay plan addendum just rolled out.
It states any tag fee error (example- charging for new tag vs transfer tag) will be a $100 deduction firectly from pay check, not against gross profit.
Any rebate form that was not properly done and gets kicked back by manufacturer is deducted dollar for dollar from pay check.
Anyone ever had something like this? Seems wild if you accidentally charge wrong tag fee they’re hitting me with a $100 fine.
I just started working at a dealership so I’m new to this. I had a customer contact me on Facebook but he only speaks Spanish so I had my coworker text him and he will mostly handle most of the deal.
Since he gonna do basically all of the work should I stay on half this deal? Or should I just tell him take the whole deal.
Hello, next Monday I'm starting as a car salesman at Toyota. My previous job was Bartending for 3 years. Any tips?
I've had no training and no previous experience.
I get $1500 on BMW 2024 models as we are a part of corporate fleet program. Given it's 2024 model, dealer has a discounted price of $52000 for X3 while MSRP is around $56000. Does it mean I can get additional $1500 rebate directly from BMW?
Want to know because I have heard mix things about this.
Good day, car sales people of Reddit.
Wife and I live in NJ. We want to pay cash for a vehicle we’re targeting in PA. We’ve been going back and forth via text with questions but not negotiating.
Please help us to understand if the fee breakdown seen here is correct/legit:
Doc fee $464 - verified correct
Title fee $60 ($67?)
Registration fee $84
DMV eFiling fee $19.25
Temp tag (PA) $38
Out of state fee $135 - verified correct
Doing some math has also shown that they are taxing all these save for the title and registration.
I get that we have to pay 6.625% as opposed to 6% because we’re NJ residents, but I’m at a loss on the rest. My wife texted me back “What the hell is an out of state fee?”
I’m going to keep looking for myself and will update what I find; more than anything looking for a helpful extra set of eyes.
Vehicle is a Ford Expedition under two years old if weight class concerns are at play.
Am I Being Bamboozeled?!BDC Pay Plan
Okay so I’ve been a Business Development Specialist for about 4 years now- I just recently switched dealerships under the impression I was getting a Base pay along with commission. I just recently came to understand this plan is actually a “draw commission”. Draw set at $2300 a month & whatever you make OVER the 2300$ a month would be your commission.
I understand this is totally legal- but is this ethical? I’m 90% sure most dealerships pay salary and commission so it’s basically like I’m working with a negative salary I need to build off of here. If my math is correct- my boss is making a good 15 grand or so a month just off of the appointments and sales we are making off of leads - but we are BARELY making our draw(which is 2300 or maybe a tiny bit more a month) Someone please explain what I should do here- the other BDC have never worked another BDC job and therefore have no idea how badly they are being taken advantage of. Help!
I live in California and I'm moving to Colorado in the next couple of months and I'm looking to buy a new vehicle (currently using parents' cars while my gf will drive us to Colorado so it's not an issue to not have one rn).
I'm looking specifically at a Tesla, or even a plug in hybrid like a Prius Prime.
Which state is better to buy in terms of car taxes, registration fees, new and used car prices, insurance, etc?
There's two trains of thought in my experience
"I never leave a voicemail. No one checks their voicemails. Think about it, when's the last time you checked yours. If I leave a voicemail the person finds out what I wanted and never call me back. By not leaving a voicemail I give an element of mystery and curiousity. They want to know why this person called. Instead I will sent a text telling them to call me back. They will always reads texts."
"If someone doesn't leave me a voicemail it must not be important. If it is important they will call back. I don't answer numbers I don't recognize so if you don't leave a voicemail I will assume it's spam and block your number"
Where do you stand?
Good afternoon,
Asking this question on Reddit before I walk into a dealership and make a fool out of myself or waste someone’s time, as I’d much rather do that online.
Question is: I may be looking to buy or lease a new C300, and I’ve seen on Edmunds and TrueCar that they’re generally being deeply discounted. I also have an Amex, which seems to be good for 3k in bonus cash. Does the Amex “stack” with a dealer discount, or is the Amex cash the discount?
330i is my first choice but might be looking to Mercedes if the BMW doesn’t work out.
For those that don't know, Keysavvy allows private sellers to offer the 30% Clean Car tax rebate on a used EV they are selling to circumvent something that only dealers are entitled to do. When a private seller and buyer agree on a deal for a used EV, the seller sells the car to Keysavvy, who then sells it to the buyer at 30% off ( less their fee). Sounds like a straw purchase arraignment to circumvent the spirit and intent of the Clean Car program for used EVs that was designed to encourage dealers to market more EVs. Probably a gray area legally at least.
I’m looking to purchase my first car on car finance and am a bit confused on how the commission works, I’ve been informed that it will be around £650. Is this something I pay now or is it something that is payed to them that I pay through the monthly payments and the Interest. Many thanks if anyone is able to help
Nevada resident here. Looking to buy a truck in Arizona (couple thousand cheaper than Vegas) i just need help understanding the taxes. From my understanding i need to pay Nevada tax on it. The dealer told me if i buy it in Arizona i pay the Arizona tax. They already said this will provide a temp tag and also be able to register it in Nevada. Any help?
lexus RX350L 2018 52k miles
used a loaner/corporate vehicle in a delership for most of its life
maintenance records are available, condition is good
give the history, is this a good deal?
Hi everyone,
I’m not the biggest car person as I currently am leasing a Nissan Altima, but I recently got a big raise at work and thought to myself that once this lease is up, I’d be very interested in looking into purchasing my first ever luxury vehicle. I’ve been interested in a few such as the Audi A7, Mustang Mach-E and my eyes have been more recently glued to the BMW 430i Gran Coupe. I don’t know much about cars (please don’t roast me) but I’m hoping a few people could give me their thoughts and experience with this vehicle. Is the driving assistance professional package worth adding on? I’m not expecting for the car to have complete self-driving like a Tesla, but if the assistance is worth the almost $2k add on, I’d love to hear why you think so. I’d definitely be interested in also hearing if you have any other Luxury car recommendations under $75k. I do not necessarily care about having a super sporty car, but definitely one with decent perks , especially on the interior, such as heated/ventilated seats, heated steering wheel, ambient lighting, driving assistance, self-parking, etc.
I appreciate you all for any help and recommendations!