I just bought a 22 Charger and it came with only 1 fob. I didn't bother checking about the other as my wife had all the paperwork I figured it was in the folder, but it wasn't. I'm just wondering if there is supposed to be 2 keys with the CPO program, dealer is closed til Monday .

This seems suspiciously cheap and I don't understand Used 2023 Toyota bZ4X Limited For Sale $25,000 | Cars.com

Thinking about trading in my lease. Im doing the math currently to figure out how much i would owe.

Fair market wholesale value. is there a way i can find it out myself or find a number close to it without going through dealers etc.

Thank you for your time

I keep hearing about these guys who will buy nice luxury cars only when there's a deal and I assume from rich people trying to dump it quickly, and resell for a profit... and I don't understand where or how they're doing it.

So I'm throwing it to Reddit to help me! I'm looking for a Chevrolet Corvette Coupe 2006-2012. Has to be standard, colour can be white, grey, silver, or black. Ideally under 50,000 but under 100,000 mileage is ok. And here's the big money catch! I don't have more than 25k to spend on it, but obviously ideally under 20k. I'm located in Ontario, but am willing to travel to get it as long as registering it in Ontario, won't be a problem. Call me crazy for dreaming!

But I'm trying to make it happen with what I have and am not in the business of going broke for it either, so call it a pipe dream if you think! I've tried kijiji, autotrader, facebook marketplace and have been told to go fuck myself everywhere lol. What do you guys recommend? Do you think my dream is possible?

I bought a 2020 mustang from a mom and pop dealer a couple of weeks ago and i noticed the paint was cracking so i took it back to get it fixed and when i got the car back it was worse, it had paint drips, i could see where they sanded it down and the paint doesn't even match and when i got delivered the car it didn't even start, it was messy inside and dirty outside, im taking it back to them again on Monday to get it fixed, but if i get my car back im the same condition can i lemon my car ?

I'm looking at getting an 08 avalon with 129k miles. It is from a used car dealership. I am scheduling a PPI and test drive and was told by the guy who has the FB ad up, that his wife is currently driving the car but that they can wash it and have it ready for me with enough heads up.

Mixing business and personal things never quite sit right with me. Is this weird/red flag?

Looking for help thinking through the ramifications of a lease quote I just got. It's for a 2024 EV model & the 2025s just came out. So they're looking to discount somewhat.

The breakdown for 24 month lease is:

* MSRP: $58k
* selling price: $53k
* rebates: $13.25k
* "your price": $39.8k
* residual: 51%
* money factor: .00152

My understanding is that residual is based on MSRP, not sales price. Is that correct? If so they're saying the car is gonna be worth almost $30k in 2 years, when it's only really worth $40k now, which seems optimistic.

So it seems like this might be a good deal if I only keep it for 2 years, since I'm reaping benefit of the rebates plus the relatively high residual. But if I want to keep it after 2 yrs, overall outlay is gonna feel fairly expensive. Am I reading that right?

My wife and I purchased her a new car back in November, a 2021 Toyota Highlander (~45,000 miles on it). We financed about 80%. We purchased the car on a Friday and had immediate problems, we didn't even make it to the bank to get the cashiers check and back to the dealership before the check engine light came on... we got back to the dealership and told them the check engine light came on so they checked it and it was some small electronic part they would order and fix. We agree since they said it wasn't a huge deal and take the care home for the weekend.

Sunday the car was leaking transmission fluid, so I take it up to the dealership on Monday and they said it was leaking due to them just replacing the transmission and it (the transmission) didn't even have 100 miles on it, which the salesman and everyone conveniently overlooked somehow. I tell them I wouldn't have bought the car if I knew it had a replaced transmission. At this point I'm pretty frustrated with everyone there. They say we can essentially trade it in on another one and wouldn't have to pay anything else out of pocket. So we do that, and now we have a 2022 Toyota Highlander similar to the previous care in all ways except one year newer. We had to get financing again and used the same lender through the dealer. That was a headache but at least now we feel better about the car we purchased.

Fast forward 3 months and the bank just sent us the title to the original car we purchased that had transmission issues that we traded in in less than 48 hours. What in the world do we do with the title? This whole thing has been a pain in my ass...

Hello everyone. I recently sold my lease very early to a Honda dealership. (had to pay negative equity directly to the dealer). I log into my honda financial account and it’s completely paid off now. It also does state i can’t make payments anymore because the account is closed. I signed a release of liability, wholesale purchase order, power of attorney and vehicle/ vessel transfer and reassignment form with the dealership. I called the dmv and asked if i was still registered under the car, they said yes, you and Honda lease trust. Obviously i don’t have the car anymore and Honda financial did say they mailed out the title like three days ago. ( to the dealership that bought it). Do i have anything at all to worry about? Will anything come back to bite me? Can I purchase a car without having to worry about the car the dealership bought out from Honda financial? I already canceled insurance. Am i just overthinking everything? Been really stressed lately.

I think I purchased a car today at the Nissan dealership. Test drove, worked on the numbers, was supposedly approved, signed papers, and paid the down payment. They gave me the car, but with no temp tag only a borrow agreement and told me to come by on Monday to get the temp tag and paperwork.

Is this going to end up being a spot delivery thing? I did see who the suppose lender was and also signed some papers for them as well.

Is this normal? What could be the deal with this? Never had this happen.

Hi. Shopping CPO and seeing 7.5% as the best from the dealership.

My bank gave me 6.19 in November on a new car. This month I am looking at something for my kids. I am very surprised by the shift up. 60 months 770 credit wc Certified with dealer 2021 or 2022.?

I went over the covered mileage significantly on my lease and I know I’ll have to pay a hefty final bill when I return it to the dealership. I live in a desolate area so I can’t get the car inspected before turning it in so I’ll have to wait a while until Honda inspects the car and sends me an itemized list. Does anyone know how long it’ll be until they send me that list with what I owe? Also, does anyone know if Honda would be willing to do a payment plan or if I can request financial hardship to split that payment up? Taking out a loan and purchasing this vehicle is out of the question for personal financial reasons.

As the title says, but I am going to put a $1000 deposit down to hold a car.

The email says this:

"This email is acting as written notice that we, {CAR DEALERSHIP NAME}, will take a $1000 partial

downpayment towards the purchase of the Certified Preowned Bronco Big Bend {STOCK NUMBER}

We will take this partial payment to hold the vehicle from being sold until it has made it through our shop.

You have the right at any time to receive a refund of the partial downpayment if you change your mind or if the

vehicle is for any reason unsatisfactory.

But the one time payment form says this:

"I certify that I am an authorized user of this credit card and acknowledge that this is a non-refundable partial down payment for the above mentioned goods/services. In as such I will not dispute or cancel the transaction with my credit card company"

The biggest difference here being that, the email is a just an email & this is a signed form.

I might have to put it in u/legaladvice but figured here - Thanks!

I found a used wrangler rubicon on a local car lot. The price seems to be about what retail. It’s been sitting there for over a month and they have dropped the price a few times. every other one I’ve seen there is gone in a week.

The car fax is there to look at and it shows it was stolen and recovered a day or so later. Is that a huge red flag? I know it’s possible it has a salvage title, but I doubt this place tile have a car with a salvage title on their lot. Is a stolen and recovered car that bad of mark on a car fax?

I’m not going to take a chance on it. Im just curious now how bad that is.

Hi everyone,

I’ve been searching on YouTube and in this sub but wanted some clarity on my situation.

I currently have a leased car from Toyota, and my lease will end next year. Right now, the car’s value is 20-23k, but I have the option to buy it at the lease-end price of 17k

Next year, I’m hoping to BUY and upgrade to a bigger car from the same dealership.

How does this process typically work? Do I simply return the leased car and purchase a new one, or is there a way to use the equity (the difference between the car’s value and my lease buyout price) as leverage to reduce or eliminate a down payment on the new car?

I’d appreciate any insights. Thanks

So reached out to a dealer online that had a good price on a truck I wanted. Got referred to a "Sales manager" who told me they cannot accept out of state credit unions because there would be a lien on the cashiers check. I'm lost. The credit union I use was equally lost. Puzzled when I called and asked if this was somtheing they had heard of. Was told the dealer shoudl call the credit union to straighten anyhting out with the process(they could be paid either by wire trnasfer or cashiers check). I vented my frustration to a friend of mine. They thought I was exaggurating until I showed the texts with the manager. Is this a thing?

Back story: Been in the market for a subaru outback wilderness. Really tall so I wanted without the moonroof and that's the only upper trim model that it's available without.

Live in an area with several dealers within an hour radius and finally found a dealer that would request one for me in a color I wanted. We had some back and forth and finally agreed on a price. I sent an email saying "I'm officially requesting a Subaru Outback Wilderness at an OTD price of whatever they said and that it is variable based off taxes and tradeins"

Got a reply "On it" and thought we were rolling. A week later I was in the area and stopped by the dealer. I was in the car that would be a trade in and wanted them to look at it to verify the amount. He also took a photo of my license to help with the financing part and speed things up. Ended it with "How we looking? Next week?" and he said "I hope so. I have one and I have a backup just in case."

Keeping in mind that I never actually signed anything or gave a deposit (Even though I asked if I needed to do either.) The guy said don't worry about it which I thought was weird but maybe he's been doing this a long time and felt I was trustworthy.

This week comes along. Still no word from the dealer. Tried calling. "We'll tell him you called" Even sent an email on Wed saying "Hey, just checking to see how we're looking?" and I feel like maybe I've been abandoned.

Outside of making a 2 hour round trip up to the dealer, anyone here have advice? Should I just move on and try with a different dealer? Haven't signed any paperwork or paid any money so outside of the "I'm officially requesting email" there's nothing legally binding. I just really had my eyes set on this one and now it's not going to happen it seems.

Friend wants to get a Subaru Asfend.

What are those going for ? Dealer said MSRP ?

How much under MSRP are they really selling ?

Edit - market is Eastern TN

So was in an accident, insurance made a determination of a total loss. I still owe on the car $15.1k and the settlement is $12k. The next step is to look for another vehicle currently eyeing Jeep Grand Cherokees.

How realistic is it for me to be able to get a loan for a vehicle that’s $13.5k with about $3k left on the first car?

I just need someone to help me make sense of how the financing works with getting another car. Credit is ok but I am maxed on my only credit card. :(

I'm currently daily driving a BMW Z4 2.5l with just over 160,000 miles. The car has seen better days... to name a few important details: the radiator grille is missing. Several interior plastic pieces are broken. The ignition cylinder is broken (so I've been starting the car using a screwdriver directly on the ignition switch). The struts are worn . The convertible soft top motor is burnt out. There are dings all over the hood and the rear fenders have some damage.

The engine has been remarkably reliable and has received regular oil changes.

I'm wondering if it's worth taking the vehicle to a dealership and trying to trade it in or if I should try selling the car on the private market. I don't really want to pawn the car off to some poor bastard that doesn't know what they're getting themselves into but I think I could get a reasonable price ($2,000?) for the car if someone wanted the car just to engine swap into their own Z4 and part out the rest. I haven't posted any listing online as I don't want to have people making lowball offers or coming to look at the vehicle just to tell me there's a lot wrong with it (I already know there is).

Would a dealership offer me anything close to $2,000 as a trade in?

I recently purchased a 2021 ford explorer and was asked if I wanted to certify it for $695. Salesman basically said you are paying for the interest rate because with certified vehicles they are advertising 5.99% and normal used vehicles run about 7%. (We ended up getting 5.90%) Along with the interest rate it goes thru a specific multipoint inspection and then he said a 90 day bumper to bumper warranty. We ended up paying for the certification but then also ended up getting an extended warranty that covers us for 6years/100,000 miles which was $4200.

When I get home I’m looking at a screen shot I had taken of the car online and it was advertised as “RELAX, it’s certified. 172 point inspection, 12 month/12,000 mile comprehensive limited warranty, and 7year/100,000 mile powertrain limited warranty”

He didn’t say anything about these warranties, just 90 day. But this was specifically listed for my car online and I wish I would have noticed beforehand. Did we get screwed? We already bought the car and I wish I would have paid attention to this. We then wouldn’t have purchased a $4200 extended warranty if these warranties were included with the CPO.

So my husband and I planned on looking at a 2024 Mitsubishi Outlander Ralliart yesterday at a local dealer. Since these cars are rare (only 3 within 70miles from our home) we asked our local dealer if they could bring it from one of their affiliated dealerships. We called on Tuesday and they told us they’d have it for our Friday morning appointment. We show us yesterday and come to find the car was not there. We were told by our sales rep that they decided not to bring it because they didn’t want to get stuck with the car if they couldn’t make us a good deal - problem # 1. We agreed to stay and talk numbers/finance because we really wanted this car. The affiliated dealerships it was to come from had it listed for 38,800 MSRP but brought price down to $32,200 with new year/dealership discounts and incentives that we qualified for. So, we sit down, and our sales rep puts the finance options on a piece paper in front of us and asks us what works for us. This paper had none of the incentives or discounts on it. They were asking full MSRP price at 7.99%APR. We inquired why it wasn’t the same price or if they had any incentives or discounts and they said flat out no, that the deals we saw advertised were actually not available nor could they be combined - problem #2. So we declined her offers and told her we’d rather make the trip to the affiliated dealership with the actual car so that we could receive those exact incentives and deals. She then runs off to her financial advisor and he comes out asking what we’re looking for essentially. We stated we wanted a deal that would allow us to cash out at most 550/month and a low if not 0% APR since our credit is 750+. He kept “running numbers” that were not even close, even after running a credit check on both of us. It was aggravating, confusing and tiresome how many sheets he kept bringing out that gave us nothing we asked for. He then asks us to give him a debit card to charge a $50 deposit incase we’d want the car and to show the other dealership we were interested - problem #3. The final deal he brought out he said he REALLY had to fight for for us (bullshit) which ended up being $31,200 sale at 6.49% for 75 months. At this point, we were mentally spent and exhausted from the back and forth so we left. They told us they’d get the car by 2pm and call us to talk more numbers and come to see it. After we got home, I realized how awful that deal was. Basically, we’d end up paying almost $44,00 for a year old car that’s just barely worth $38k after our 75month term was over. In the end, we called our rep to tell her no thank you, but got her voicemail. 2:30 comes and she calls us apologizing that the hadn’t got the car yet and that we could still come back and talk more numbers in the meantime. We told her about the VM we left and again declined. We had to hang up because she tried talking over us and wanted us to talk to finance again. We got 3 calls after that from her and a voicemail asking us to contact them further. It’s been 24 hours and the calls stopped but we now noticed that they have the car on their site listed for all of those incentives/deals they told us weren’t available. I need to know if this is normal practice? Am I the jagoff here?

Is that anything to be concerned about? Is the repossession showing up after the auto sale just the DMV being slow to update the title?
The dates are -
12/9 - vehicle offered for sale
12/18 - vehicle sold at auction
12/26 - title updated, vehicle repossessed
2/1 - vehicle offered for sale
Would there be any reason to think that the seller (a small lot with mixed reviews) might not actually have the title or anything else I should look out for?

Since it looks like the current administration intends on eventually doing away with the tax credit for EVs, how will that work for sales in the year before whenever it ends up happening? Specifically, what happens if a buyer transfers the credit to a dealership to receive a point-of-sale discount, and then the dealership can't even use it the following year? Is there any protection against something like that happening?

Not a car salesman, just curious about the process.

Bought a 2019 mdx with 84K miles. Car was dealer serviced its entire life. Came with a 6 month Acura care warranty. They offered 2 year 100K extended warranty for $2000, got them down to $1500 but I still declined - seemed expensive for it? Plus the two years starts from purchase date NOT after the six month one expires. So it’s really 1.5 years

Also offered allstate 5 year for 4375. But at that price it would just make sense to buy newer car with less miles and factory warranty.

What do you think? Are these extended warranty options a good deal or not ?

Wanted to get a sense if I am being unreasonable.

Bought a new car and a dent was discovered during the detailing, which was after I signed the paperwork. Sales said no problem, they’ll send it down the road for repairs, gave me a loaner and pick up in a week.

Two questions:

Am I wrong to be disappointed that the “down the road” repair shop was 80 miles away, roundtrip and that they drove my car? I live in a large city so there is no lack of repair shops between the dealership.

Is it unreasonable to ask for the work order from the shop? The sales guy is ignoring my request.

Hey All,

I am shopping for a vehicle, mostly on marketplace, and would prefer private sale to save on taxes. That said, I have $40k in Amex high yield savings. I do not want to take it out and have it sitting around or even in low yield as, I am waiting to find a deal (not desperate for a car). How do I go about getting $40k quickly transferred with no/minimal fees to a seller, instead of waiting a week for a cashiers check (which also frightens me because it is not secure)?

While I do have a savings account with chase - 20 dollars in it, I do not otherwise bank with any brick and mortar bank.

I want to buy a Mazda cx5 premium plus and obviously want a cheaper option.

I see a blue 2024 new Mazda cx5 listed at msrp of $36500, destination fee of $1420, cargo net of $60 and floor mats of $170 totaling $38150.

The white 2025 model is listed at msrp of $35000, destination fee of $1420, paint charge of $565 roadside assistance of $90 totaling $37,305.

I would think the older model would be at a lower price since it’s now 2025. I really want the 2024 because it’s a cute blue.

Is this a standard normal price? I don’t know how to negotiate but would like to knock off $1500 from either vehicle. I’ve been approved from a credit union but would still like to negotiate a lower price from the dealer. How do I go about that?

This is my first time purchasing a new vehicle, I was considering purchasing a 2024 cpo priced at $31k. Any advice would help.

Hello, I recently traded in my 2011 Nissan Altima 2.5S Sedan when buying a new car. The dealership gave me $2600 for it, but when I checked the Carfax wholesale price estimate, it was $3,600. And Carvana's estimate was $2700. Now I’m wondering—did I get a fair deal, or did I sell it for too little?

• Mileage: 81,000 miles
• Accident History: 1 reported accident
• MPG: Around 16 MPG
• Owners: 2

Would love to hear your thoughts! Thanks.

I was quoted $30,500 out the door for a 2025 Civic Hatchback Sport (MSRP $27,950, local tax 9.5%). Is this a fair deal, or should I shop around? It’s my first car purchase, and I plan on pretty much keeping it till it dies.