24, buying my first car on my own, have never negotiated before, am trying to buy a used 2023 F150 xlt. Saw some descent deals on Autotrader, and went in to the dealership to test drive. Test drive was not ideal, guy was basically silent the whole time and I had to to probe questions out of him. Then we got back to the lot and I noticed the sticker price, that said “sale” on it was about 3k more than the advertised online price. When I asked to talk numbers, I gave him the lower end of my budget which may have been too low but still to which he basically told me to go f-myself. He then went on to tell me that the online price was the absolute lowest he could go, and that that was a marketing tool to get people in the door from all over. I asked him if he was serious and he gave me the whole shpeel about how they don’t make any money on cars anymore and that getting thousands off sticker was a thing of the past. That Kinda blew me away, cuase the kbb trade in value for that truck was 8k less than they were asking, and I would be shocked if they gave him that. I could have hypothetically afforded their bottom dollar but basically told him to kick rocks and walked off the lot pissed off, out of principle. Am I being unreasonable? Seems like advertising one price and showing up and it’s another is crazy, even if not illegal since it’s technically their “bottom dollar.” Overall pretty negative first experience trying to buy a truck.

2007 Prius, 120k miles.

Got screwed on a private party purchase. I paid $4500. When purchased the seller told me it had no mechanical issues and the hybrid battery had been replaced at 80k miles. Within a month the car started having issues. Between transferring the title and paying taxes, buying a new 12V battery, and taking it to a mechanic I spent around $1k. Ultimately I was informed the hybrid battery was bad and the technician recommended I donate it, lol. The car runs and drives. It starts, so I know the hybrid battery must not be totally dead, but it mostly runs on the engine and has problems accelerating.

At this point I am out $5500, not to mention I had to buy another car. Trying to recoup as much $$ as possible. I have it listed on FB and craiglist for $2800 with no bites. I figured someone could replace the battery or maybe just a few cells and turn a profit or drive it themselves.

Is it priced too high? Should I consider replacing the hybrid battery and then trying to sell? Or should I just donate it?

I need to get this car out of my life. I live in an apartment so I have to keep moving it around on the street.

Any advice? Made a bad decision and now trying to move on and learn from it.

how does purchasing a car from another state work?

Hello, I have a situation, I currently have 2 months left on my vehicle lease and over my mileage by 15,000. I had the money to pay for the mileage but ended up having some health issues and had to pay the medical bill. Now I don’t nt think I’ll be able to afford to pay for the over mileage. Does anyone know if I’ll be able to do payments for the mileage I am over ?

We are working with a local dealer for purchasing a Rav 4 Hybrid in Austin,TX. I have test driven vehicle in XLE Premium trim the week before.When we walked in on Sat (5/11) to look at a different vehicle, dealer said they have a Rav 4 Hybrid available in limited that some one with reservation dropped and are willing to work a great deal. We saw the vehicle for features but did not test drive vehicle as sales person said it is same vehicle with better options as one i test drove before.I also had a trade in vehicle so it was included and we agreed on out the door number. By time we got to finance, we were already waiting 2 hrs for finance and it was well past closing time at 10 pm .When Finance offered additional warranty on Hybrid battery i told them we were not interested as we were tired and ready to get out. I still pulled myself up as vehicle was for my wife and would be great mothers day present. it was so late finance didn't even give me a balance print out of amount i need to pay for the car.But we did sign a bunch of paperwork.

I put in a 2000$ deposit on the vehicle and dealership told me i could take the vehicle home. I never handed over the trade vehicle or paid additional balance required to complete the transaction. We were visiting a friend today to show the vehicle and my friend pointed out that it is not a hybrid. I was scared as crap and looked for anything i could find in car that indicated hybrid. Eventually found the sticker that said vehicle is gas. I called the sales person and he said he did ask back for a hybrid and wasn't sure why they gave me a gas vehicle.

I admit It was stupid on my part to not check if vehicle was a hybrid , in-fact didnt know how to either. I did put about 50 miles on the vehicle between driving to home and visiting a friend. Main reason we even considered Rav 4 Hybrid was gas mileage as my trade in is a V6 with 18mpg city and Rav 4 Hyrbid would be around 40 mpg city but gas version is 23 mpg city. 90% of our driving is city.

What options do I have ?

I get paid every 2 weeks and every since my car was stolen (liability only) I've been using Uber, they're practically getting my check after bills. I can't save for a down payment because of them. I had to call in today and I don't want to lose my job, I love it but I can't seem to find anyone willing to help. I can pay back!! To top it off, my friend that would give me a ride at times, car burnt up last week so it's made things more difficult. Can someone please direct me in the right direction.

I'm looking to trade in my 2020 Dodge for a new car. KBB has my trade in estimated at 21k and the new car I'm looking at is listed on cars.com at 26k. I can easily pay the difference.

However, is it worth getting it financed so the dealer will offer me a better OTD and just pay off the loan amount after I get off the lot or outright buy it?

Same question with their gap insurance...get it for the better deal and then cancel it?

Want to buy used 2019 Mercedes Benz C300 from Mercedez dealership with less than 50k miles. Unsure what price to target from their website listing in terms of percentage. Any tips on negotiating?

I got a quote from Carmax. And I spoke with 2 dealerships. A Chevrolet dealership is offering 500$ more than Carmax. And a Mazda dealership where I originally bought the car is offering me 600$ more.

However unlike Carmax neither of those dealerships is going to give me the check on the spot. In that regard they are very transparent. They are saying they will give me the check in a day or two.

I plan on selling the car this Friday. And I will be leaving town a week later. Can I trust these dealerships to give me the check?

I’m not quite sure if this is the best place to post this but here goes.

I own a 2013 Chevy Cruze with almost 120k miles on it but I have already had several issues with this car in just the four years that I’ve had it and just found out I need my catalytic converter replaced as well as a new engine problem that just popped up, so I’m probably looking at another 2k in repairs. I originally bought it for 13,000 and with the added repairs I’ve probably put in 5-6k extra money into it and frankly I’m tired of it. I’m worried that if I fix this issue another one is just gonna pop up so I feel like trading it in and getting a new car is a better investment at this point.

One thing I will say is I have about a year and a half left to pay off my car and while I’m not too keen on signing up for more monthly payments, I’d much rather have a better car that I know will last longer than the one I currently have, since the 2013 cruze’s are known for having a lot of transmission issues amongst other things.

This is just my first car and I’m not quite sure what’s better at this point so I’m asking people who might know more than me lol.

Any bit of help is appreciated!

Firstly the payplan: We have 2 week long pay periods that end every other thursday, we are paid minimum wage hourly OR commissions whichever is greater, commission is a percentage of front end

So I had a used car deal, he came in, signed docs, funds received (cashiers check) car delivered, and burning gas all on Thursday morning. The car was one that was traded in a month prior and it sounds like there was a snag where the previous deal (that this car was a trade in for) was not completed, posted, or something at the time of my sale. They told me we can proceed with it and post this deal anyway. About $600 commission and a $100 bonus for holding ad price.

Since that previous deal (when it was traded in) wasn’t fully wrapped up, I wasn’t paid for it in that pay period even though I had done everything.

Well, our used car management has been subpar so I swung a HUGE negative gross on the NEXT pay period, and am getting hourly pay instead. The problem is, this is where they are finally paying me for the deal, and I am not actually seeing that money since hourly overtook it/ate it.

I reached out to have it fixed and was told this “deal did not qualify to be finalized last pay period per your pay plan”

What’s the best course of action?

I’m wanting to switch to car sales for several reasons. Learn to sell, pay off debt, and the benefits that they’re boasting about online. I haven’t had a job that actually has health benefits so that’s a big plus. The things that caught my eye were that indeed listings are saying “8hour shift” and “Monday - Friday”. Do you think all these work life balance claims on the ad are bait to get new workers? I have a family event coming up in a couple of weeks. Would you suggest getting in now and telling my manager that I’d have to take off for 3 days in my second week? Or just wait? I plan on going into the dealerships that I’ve been searching and found to be the most ideal. Any tips for that? Whether it’s resume related or putting on a face so that I can show that I really want to work. I appreciate any advice.

Hello, next year I hope to purchase a pre-owned car after I graduate law school at age 25, preferably something like a Volvo XC60 or adjacent. I’m worried because I’ve never had a car loan before. I’ve had a credit card for 6 years that I’ve never missed a payment on and was made an authorized user on my parents credit card they’ve had since 1985 since I was a teen. My parents would co-sign for me, but they are retired so that is what concerns me. They have good & steady investment income, that is really all they have as “income”. Can they still be co-signers for me? Would investment statements be enough to prove income? If it’s helpful info, my budget is 35k and I have 15k I would put down, no debt as I worked through school and went the in-state and commuted.

I am going to see a new Kia Sportage in Ontario tomorrow, and I expect I’ll be negotiating the price. I’ll be financing this vehicle 100% through the dealership. What is a good starting point (%) and what is a realistic discount I could expect? I have never bought new, so don’t know what I’m going into

Ive had it a year. It's $16k. It still have $15k left. I only put $1,000 down when I first bought it so payments are $500 a month (high interest rate). If I got, maybe. $3,000 on this car and used this money and put a down-payment of $3,000 on another car, would that be wise? Lower monthly payments and interest rate?

Thank you!

So Ive got my test booked for this week, Ive read the book and am easily getting 90-95 (and in many chapters 100) percent-ish on the practice quizzes each chapter. I do know that the questions on the test will differ from the ones in the book, but I just want to know if I should anticipate doing well on the actual test based on my practice quiz results.

Also, if anyone has any advice pertaining to the quiz, plus the ensueing job hunt, thatll be awesome. For reference, my background mostly consists of factory work and Ill be leaving a trash gig in B2B sales for this.

Any help is appreciated!

Hey guys so last year i had purchased a car and the price of the car was 21,000 and after fees and taxes and warranty the cost came up to 25,000. I had put down 9 grand on the car and got a 8% intrest rate. But my problem is my total ammount finaced never changed and the 9k didnt subtract at all from the cars price. I ended up financing 25k. Where did my 9k downpayment go im so confused

i’m almost 18 and i really do need a car, but i don’t know anything that has to do with cars. my parents never had a car so most of what i know is learned from the outside world. i don’t have preexisting insurance to leech off of either. im really just trying to figure the proper steps before i make such a big purchase

I've been in sales for about 5 years, jewelry then SAAS. I'm in a dead end job but it's not killing me or anything. I'm thinking about selling cars but everyone says it's about finding the right dealership and everything post COVID is way different. TX is growing fast and there is money in this town. Does anyone have any advice if I do decide to switch to car sales?

Should I get a 2014 Hyundai Elantra or a HONDA HR-V? Open to other options but I’m 4’8” so keep that in mind lol. Price point below 10k

• I really like the HRV but someone has it listed for 12k with 150k highway miles and I know a dealership that has it at 100k miles at only 11. Is it reasonable to ask for 9k for this car? If not what price works?

I have a same question but in my case my car is worth when I bought it was 35 thousand I did down payment 5000 and my whole amount after loan was around 45k after 6 years. Then now it’s showing me the buyout money is 31k and when I tried trade in with a dealer they are giving me 27k for the car. What would be my best option now? I want to get more reliable and fuel efficient car. Either I can buy a cheaper 20k car or expensive 30k car. Please help me deciding it. I don’t wanna put money now.

I’m disappointed to see the V6 is no longer an option. Should I look for a 2023? I want the reliability of the Toyota V6. Please compare and contrast the two engines and offer your opinion on which is best? I

In march of 2021 I signed a 48 month (paying 398$ per month and residual of 11,200 at end of lease) lease for a 2021 honda civic with 0 miles. I've been driving it for work and uber ever since and put 166k miles on it so far. When i signed the lease it was my intention to purchase the car once the lease was up because i knew id be using it for work. Well It started making a noise this week and turns out to be the transmission (8k for a replacement at honda). I need a car asap and dont have much for a downpayment. what are my options?

I personally am not a great negotiator, but I don't want to also get raked over the coals. We do have multiple dealerships nearby so I could actively shop around between dealerships, but a lot of them are owned by the same company. I'm not sure if that would affect my potential negotiations, or if it'll be each salesman I'd different.

My guest is really perturbed about interest rates, so my mind went straight to security deposits on a lease to buy down the money factor for essentially less interest, but payments aren’t where they need to be.

What would be a good way to explain it to them?

Brand new Mazda3 Hatch Carbon Trim
Central TX
Looking to pay half in cash and finance the rest.

Looking to buy a new car for the first time in my life since the used car market is still kinda wonky.

I'm looking at buying the car above for the AWD. I've shopped around and found a dealer who offered me $6k for my 2015 Ford Escape when I was expecting about $3.5 at most.

When we began to talk about the trade-in value, financing, monthly payment etc; the sales rep began mentioning tax credits. This threw me off-guard because it was a factor I hadn't come across in my research for the process. I thought it was as simple as the dealer offers me $X and I use that towards the purchase of the new car.

Can someone please ELI5 how taxes are factored in a trade-in like this? Would I be taxed on the "income" from the trade-in and they offer a credit towards that?

Thanks!

I was set on purchasing this 2015 dodge Durango R/T until the $2998 extra added on for aftermarket fee. Sales rep explained a 5yr anti theft protection device called Plad Tech was installed in the dash and the lifetime door edge guards. If this is not optional why is it not added to the sticker price? I have to drive pretty far for car dealerships and I’m wondering if this is the standard when buying a used car?

Ready to buy a car. Test drove it two days ago, got an out the door price, did some extra research, decided I'm good to go.

i initiated an 18k ACH transfer from my vanguard brokerage to my checking account today, will take 2-3 business days to complete.

Will they take a check on Monday if I can't date it until Wednesday/Thursday? Or will they only take a check dated the day of sale?

Not sure if this is a dumb question or not. This is my first time ever being in a dealership, not really sure how these things work.

Hey Guys,

Car Details: Mileage: 185k Model: Toyota Prius 2005 Price: $2800 Asking

I've seen a 2005 Toyota Prius for sale, The car is not perfectly but moderately maintained and it shows 50% Strength on Carfax. I need a car for my school commute daily 20miles. Also, I don't have much expectations from the car T only need a reliable low maintenance/ low running cost car which can last for 2 or 3 years. My question is Should I buy it or run away?.