I know I need to write them a check of the difference. but will carmax than handle paying off the car and getting the title from my financing company? as i am being posted overseas

Advice needed

Cooling-off period can be negated if accept delivery of car by buyer

Does anyone know what 'acceptance of delivery of vehicle' means?

People in Australia in particular Victoria responses only please

Need a carfax or have any questions? I can help

I make $45k per year and have $40k saved up. I want to buy a $43k car while putting $10k down + trade my car now for $5k. Is that reasonable or I should be saving up more/making more each year ?

US-based. I'll say upfront that I've only bought a new car a few times, but those experiences made me aware of some of the pitfalls, and I'm trying my best! How would you handle negotiations based on the below?

• I'm in a city with 10+ Hyundai dealerships within driving distance.
• I have a specific model, trim, and exterior and interior color I want. There are multiple dealerships that have that combo, and those cars have been sitting on their lots for over a month, two or three in some cases.
• I established my target out-the-door price by taking the lowest number in the KBB range, calculating the sales tax and registration, and adding it on. I'm only focusing on that final number.
• I'm not in a rush to buy, and I'm only willing to pay cash price (no financing or trade-ins).
• My goal is to only show up at the dealership with the final offer in hand. I feel like this avoids a lot of the frustration and wasted time I've had in the few experiences where I've bought in the past.

Here's what's happened so far:

• I'm keeping tabs online which dealerships have the car on the lot.
• I've sent most of them the same email through their web form. Basically, I say what I'm looking for, with which features, and that I will pay in cash. Then, I'm asking for the vehicle at $1,000 BELOW my target price. So, if KBB had the bottom range at $X, I add the tax and registration to $50K, and then I subtract $1,000.
• I've gotten texts or calls from most of these dealerships. They all try to get me to come in, but I explain that I only want to come in with the offer in hand and that I'll buy from whoever gets me that offer first.
• Almost all of them have played some sort of game. They've send me an offer, but it's for financing or for the wrong color, the wrong trim, the wrong model (hybrid vs. non). When I reply back, I simply repeat what I'm looking for.
• Many of these have just ended up saying they can't meet my price and to let them know if I change my mind.

We're now near the end of the month. There's one dealership that's $1000 over my target price and that's promising to price-match any legitimate offer within the state.

My plan is to see who calls me tomorrow to try and follow up with my original offer. I'll budge some to get closer to my target price. If no one calls, I'll try that dealership and see what offer they'll make.

Ideas? Thank you.

Hi all, I am trying to buy a Mazda 3 Hatchback. I found a 2020, for $18,777 / 25,748 mi and had this experience: When I went to test drive it, the car wouldn't start. Really dead. And when the sales rep tried to jump start it with one of those portable jump starter things, it still didn't start. Extremely dead. So I didn't get to drive it. And when I checked the carfax record for the car later, it shows vehicle offered for sale 6/26/20, first owner reported 5/12/21. Then on 6/4/21 "battery and charging system checked" 526 miles. Then on 8/17/22 a "no start/hard start condition checked" - 13,852 mi. I can't tell what happened after that except the dealership took over the title while car was in inventory and car was offered for sale 1/4/24. What do you think? Doesn't seem like the car is good buy. It also seems that maybe the dealership is using it for something because the mileage goes up but it hasn't been bought. Thanks for any advice or guidance.

Recently, I purchased a new honda suv which already came with window tint in the rear windows and rear windshield i.e. I did not request for the tint. The rear windshield tint seems a bit too dark to me at night, especially when street lighting is less. But, it is somewhat ok in daylight with cloudy skies which is what I had during the test drive. The tint is so dark that you cannot easily see what's inside the cargo (bad for thieves, but also bad for driving at night). Do I have a legal right to get it removed by the dealership? Regardless of law, is it realistic to ask the dealer to remove the rear windshield tint?

PS - I could do this on my own with youtube videos, but I prefer that the dealer do it instead. The rear windshield has heating lines which can potentially get damaged while removing any tint film. So, I don't want to risk it. I also prefer to not go to a tint shop, because I'd have to pay extra for something I did ask for.

NOTE - This is the main post. I accidentally posted this question twice. Here is the other copy https://www.reddit.com/r/carbuying/comments/1cfidyk/can_i_get_the_dealer_to_remove_the_window_tint/

Recently, I purchased a new honda suv which already came with window tint in the rear windows and rear windshield i.e. I did not request for the tint. The rear windshield tint seems a bit too dark to me at night, especially when street lighting is less. But, it is somewhat ok in daylight with cloudy skies which is what I had during the test drive. The tint is so dark that you cannot easily see what's inside the cargo (bad for thieves, but also bad for driving at night). Do I have a legal right to get it removed by the dealership? Regardless of law, is it realistic to ask the dealer to remove the rear windshield tint?

PS - I could do this on my own with youtube videos, but I prefer that the dealer do it instead. The rear windshield has heating lines which can potentially get damaged while removing any tint film. So, I don't want to risk it. I also prefer to not go to a tint shop, because I'd have to pay extra for something I did ask for.

NOTE - This post is an accidental duplicate. Please refer to the original post here instead https://www.reddit.com/r/carbuying/comments/1cfiee2/can_i_get_the_dealer_to_remove_the_window_tint/

I'm facing a conundrum and hoping to get some advice with those who can navigate car buying better than I can -- this will be my first car!

I'm currently studying uni in Indiana, moving to Colorado next month for work, and possess a California driver's license. My dad is saying I will have to pay California tax on any car due to my license, but my mom says tax only depends on where you register the car.

Does anyone know which laws apply? Cars are cheapest in Indiana, but if it's illegal to register that purchase in Colorado (because I'd have to drive it across multiple states), does that mean I should just buy one there? Also, should I just get a CO license before purchasing a car? Will that really help with tax? TIA!!

Hey - I am in Vegas for a couple months before headed back to Illinois. I drove out here, and my car has seen better days. I am looking to purchase a new one. Can I just go to a dealership and purchase? How does the out of state thing factor into this?

My car was totaled in a hail storm last week. I bought it used for 5000 and was given 4100 from my insurance. I’m trying to decide if it would be smarter to buy a 2006 Toyota Corolla with 138000 miles for 6500 or look for a newer used car and take out a small loan for it. My husband and I both have credit around 710 and we can reasonably afford about 250 a month for a payment.

I'm in the Pacific Northwest (WA state) and buying my first car - a new BMW X3. The dealers in my area are willing to give a 3% discount off msrp on cars with specific features.

I've been offered 10+% discounts on msrp by out of state brokers. Should I trust these brokers, and is it worth it? I was told by my local dealer that it is illegal to buy a car outside the state, but couldn't find anything like that.

What should I be aware of while using brokers and how do I make sure I don't get ripped off?

Also they're not willing to tell me the VIN or California dealer name till I've paid the dealer fee first. Is this common?

Coming from a 2015 Accord EX. Want to get a small-ish car, don't need something large as a single person. Ideally want good fuel efficiency, really would like a Hybrid. Want something that doesn't feel cheap, so sticking to higher trims unless it's already a luxury car. Reliability is important too. I live in an area with a bumpy roads so something that can handle better that would be nice.

Looked at:

2024 Lexus UX205h (base model)- Seemed like it was perfect for me, but was just a bit high in-terms of price.

2024 Accord Hybrid EX-L - Liked that it felt like my old car, gas milage was really good, but just don't feel into the idea of driving another accord, even through the price was negotiated down to 35.5k, I just didn't feel into the idea of spending that for what is pretty much similar to my car.

2024 Subaru Crosstrek Sport - It wasn't bad, I've never owned a Subaru so I don't know about reliability.

2024 Toyota Cross - Test drove the base model, felt really cheap. Not sure if higher trims are better.

I just don't know what else to consider. Need to make a decision soon, probably by early next week.

Also can't find any Camry hybrids anywhere in my area. Neither the 2024 model nor the 2025 models.

Hi Reddit,

I'm in the market for a new mid-size SUV with a budget of 150,000 AED and could use some recommendations. Here are the key things I'm looking for:

Purpose: I need a mid-size SUV primarily for family use and daily commuting. It should seat 5 or 7 people, with sufficient luggage space for [suitcases, strollers, or other family-related items]. Safety and comfort are my top priorities.

Preferences: I want a mid-size SUV that comes with advanced tech features such as [infotainment system, navigation, advanced safety features, and other modern conveniences]. I'm open to hybrid options for fuel efficiency. A reliable warranty and strong after-sales service are also essential for me.

Location: I live in Dubai, UAE. If there are specific brands or models that work well in this area or comply with local regulations, I'd like to know about them.

I'm looking for advice on which mid-size SUVs are best for this budget, especially those with advanced tech features and possibly a hybrid option. Are there any specific models I should avoid? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks for your help!

I'm going through the process of searching for credit unions to get a loan from and I'm looking to purchase a salvage title car. The places I'm seeing don't offer gap or extended warranties for salvages, so if you know any that do in Maryland please let me know. Thanks

Hello, I am looking to buy a Dodge Charger R / T with Plus group option.
2023 new ones are listed at around $42k (after applying qualifying discounts) at local dealerships.
There's a 2022 Charger R / T used one with similar option with 25k miles listed for around $33k.
I will be using this car only for 2 years from now, since I will be moving to a different country post that.
Considering that, which one do you all think will incur me least depreciation when I sell?
This is in California. Above prices are before tax and title.
Appreciate the inputs.
Thanks.

I am going to look at some new Mazda CX5 tomorrow for my daughter and honestly hate the buying process with the haggling. Last time I bought a new bmw, custom order, covid days and paid full MSRP. I pretty much know what I will go with and looked the MSRP . Wondering how much I can realistically barging off the MSRP. Any advise?

About 6 months ago I bought a used car from an Audi dealership (U.S.). They failed to register the car until around 5 weeks ago, and then only sent me 1 plate (my state requires 2) and failed to send me a copy of my registration. After trying the past few days to get in touch with the sales manager, I got him on the phone today. Originally he claimed the dealership had ordered two plates for me so there was nothing he could do, but after reading some paperwork he ordered a replacement plate for me, said he paid out of pocket, and apologized for the problems I've had. He said to only communicate with him through text and email to "avoid dealing with office staff", which I assume means he messed up pretty badly. I've spent many hours dealing with this (including being pulled over 6 times for no front plate). What are my chances and best methods of getting some compensation for my time and effort?

So I am looking at a vehicle out of state that I am having shipped to me. Now total price of car is about 55k. My current car that I can't trade in because of the other vehicle being out of state so I plan to sell it to carmax for about 15k (fully paid off). I can't sell my car until the new one is shipped to me. So now that the context is explained the dealership gave me an apr of 11.99%. My credit is good but guess that is what used cars are going for now. I plan to pay extra every month to bring down the principal and at 84 months payment is at $979. Obviously the 15k in hand after the new car purchase will help but I am pretty ignorant to some of these things and want to see if there is any advice for me. And vehicle is what I want at a great price just apr is a pain. What should I do?

So my brother purchased a used 2021 F150 from Ram (I know big mistake) with only 13K miles on it... now at 29K miles the truck has been non stop giving him problems and his warranty is set to expire July 2024...He's just over the truck and wants to trade it in and get a Ram (Rebel or Limited) which is what he wanted from the veery beggining but at the time he was young and naive and the sales guy somehow convinced him to purchase the used F150 🤦🏻‍♀️I wish I had gone with him to stop him but at the last moment I couldn't go. I guess the problem now is that he's super negative on his current truck (owes 41 Ram dealership offers 29 trade in). I feel like his truck is worth more than what the Ram dealership is saying. I told him to check with Ford to see what kind of deal they offer since it is their truck, although he really does not want another Ford truck but Ford is offering him 3% interest and 36k for his truck Any advice on what he should do? Sorry if this just sounds like a rant.

Hey folks- Looking to buy a new car, was primarily interested in a 2024 Subaru Forester. This isn’t my first car buying experience so I know all the traditional advice around trying to get pre approved with a credit union or other financial institutions before you get to the dealership, negotiate the sticker price down as far as possible before talking about your trade in value, etc. I’ve seen that Subaru is running a promotion right now for 2.9% interest rate/ 72mo for new foresters (for well qualified buyers). I just got preapproved for a loan through my credit union and was disappointed with the rate offered (6.9%, with an excellent credit score) so doesn’t seem like my alt financing is that competitive against the Subaru promo rate. When would be the right time to apply for their financing? I’m tempted to save time and just apply online before getting to the dealer and haggling down the sticker price first- but I realize that probably puts me in a weaker negotiating position even if it feels like it saves me a little time. Also- if my own credit union didn’t have a better rate, is it possible the Subaru rate is too good to be true (meaning I may not qualify in spite of great credit?)

Looking at buying a 2024 Volvo XC90 recharge Ultimate (list price $85k). Current allowance offered is $9750 with $4k due at signing. I know there is a $995 doc fee and $450 early termination fee for the lease. Dealer said the $4k due at signing goes towards sales tax and other fees.

Can you negotiate down the sale price of a vehicle before signing a lease? I've only ever purchased a car new. What other hidden costs should I be looking at or can I negotiate?

I've always wondered this.. ill use my current situation as an example! I'm looking to buy a car OTD for ~52k. Interest rates are not sitting well with me at all (I know we all feel this). I've already worked them from 9% down to 6.4/60mo. But...

My question is, most times, you don't get those "discounts" on the price of a car if you don't finance with the dealership. So... For instance, if one were to accept the financing and immediately, before the first payment, pay it off completely (assuming there is no penalty ect) how does this work? Is it just like paying the 52k up front?

Also, buying new cars depreciate so fast. (I'm a worst-case scenario thinker, so bare with me). If there were something to happen and the car becomes a total loss in an accident (I've already assumed other damage works the same as if you owed on a loan obviously) what happens here? The car value would be much lower already even after a month or 2, no? Hell, it would take a LONG time for usage to add up to a reasonable price to pay for time of use, so in what way is this not a huge risk? I know Gap insurance covers the loan, but what if there isn't one?

Not to go too far here, but if there's another way to beat the high rates, I'd love some insight on how it works... such as paying towards the principal?!? I wish I could get or find a way for a full breakdown of what it looks like when principal payments are made, maybe something that gives 2-3 years to completely pay off the car... logically, it seems that could even out to paying a lower rate??

Hope this makes sense to everyone. This has been something I've wondered for so long and definitely impacts a huge decision right now, so I'll be happy to put this question to rest after YEARS, lol. Idk why, but it seems like no one can answer this- There's gotta be an answer, so idk why I get the "she's crazy" look and a bunch of jumbled words. Thank you!!

Hello, first time posting in this subreddit. I am looking at potentially buying a car with an open recall on it (2016 Buick Enclave). The remedy was only recently released, so it likely hasn't been fixed yet. It is at a Toyota dealership. Are they responsible for remedying that recall before they sell it, or can we reasonably expect them to? Obviously it's not a Buick dealer, so I don't know if they would be able to do it or not. Thanks in advance.

Need some help sorting out the best option. Here are the details of what I have and need (want):
Currently have:
- 2018 Pathfinder (68K Miles) with about $5K remaining on the loan. About $370/mo. (Wife's vehicle) KBB says it is worth about $10K on trade.
- Cash on hand is about $13K
- Credit score in the low-mid 700's
Currently want:
- Vehicle for 17y/o daughter - safe, reliable, etc. - not a sub-compact
- Potentially could trade in Pathfinder, upgrade the wife's vehicle and purchase 3-4 y/o vehicle for daughter.
Where I am lost:
I've always fought pretty hard on car deals and usually walk away knowing I didn't really win, but felt like I gave it my best shot given the deck stacked against me. This one is a bit more involved and I just don't want to screw it up and regret it for the next few years. Here is how I see the options - other ideas are very welcomed:
1 - Pay off Pathfinder - give it to daughter - put $8K down on a new Subaru/Honda/Pathfinder/Rogue for the wife - take the hit on an increased payment up to about $450-500/mo
2 - Pay off the Pathfinder - wife keeps it. Put $8K towards a used car for daughter, finance the rest at 36 mos @ around $200/mo or so.
3 - Don't pay off the Pathfinder, keep paying for another 12mos, use the full $13K down on a used car for daughter, finance the rest @ 36mos for under $200/mo.
4 - Wildcard Option - My elderly mother said she wants to help and wants to use her savings to help us out. Could theoretically aske her for $15K, add another $5K and buy a 2023 Corolla off-lease for the daughter. Mom has a solid retirement income (equal to one decent salary) and a couple hundred K in the bank and investments. I am just struggling to accept any more than a few thousand from here. There are no strings attached, just don't want to take advantage of her generosity and regret it later if she needs a higher level of nursing care.
Also, probably worth mentioning. I've got a 15 y/o daughter that'll be ready for a vehicle in about a year and a half or so. I appreciate any perspective my fellow Redditors might have!

My wife is about to buy a new Sienna and I’m looking at a Tundra, so they’ll both be from the same lot.

Is there a strategy to get the best deal? Should we mention we are paying in cash or leave that for the end of negotiations? Should we be up front about wanting two vehicles, or should we figure out pricing on one and then move onto the next?

As my awesome luck continues, I set my Carvana pickup appointment today for Friday and proceeded to back into a car(fing idiot) and put a small dent in the bumper. Can really only see it when looking super close. Do I notify them about this or just roll with it?