Are there any sites or forums that aggregate new deals whether it’s discounts or finance promotions? Looking for something like Leasehackr but with more deals for people looking to buy/finance cars.

Ok so I've never purchased a car af a dealership before, I've always bought used cars from individuals.

I have been searching for a lower mileage used civic somewhere around 2015. I have been using Triple As car buying program to search, which from my families past experience has always been: Price is listed online, you go into the dealership and they accept that price.

I didn't want to do a whole lot of shopping around. I don't have time for that, I found a few that that looked good, picked one, went to the dealership and was prepared to buy it right that moment for the advertised price.

So I make an appointment, go in and talk to the salesman, he's pleasant enough. He already knows I found them thru triple A. I test drive the car, I look it over. I'm like OK I like it, let's do it.

So we go in and begin the process, he gets all my information, I tell him the down-payment I'm putting down, he gets me an APR. Everything is smooth, then he brings out some other guy. A manager I guess? He's never introduced by name.

This guy starts going thru all the extended warranties and maintenance plans, I politely say no thank you. Then he goes through his "aftermarkets", a whole huge list of stuff. I'm like Nah no thanks I'm good, just the car please.

He's like ok so your monthly payments come out to "X".. this amount is like 100 dollars over what I was led to believe I'd be paying. And for 72 months, I was estimating for 60. I'm like Uh I'm confused, clarify for me how we get to that amount?

After some BSing he reveals that the "aftermarkets" are not optional. For me to buy the car I have to agree to what would come out to five thousand dollars worth of additional nonsense. The price is now very close to that of a brand new 2025 civic, and we're talking about a 2017 with around 80k miles.

So I'm obviously like Dude, there's no way I'm doing this right now. I came in prepared to pay the advertised price, and if you give me that I'll sign right now.

This conversation went on way longer than it needed to, but he claimed that essentially every dealership will require these add ons to buy a used car. No one will actually sell me a used civic at the price advertised online. That's how the whole world works

I left and immediately called one of the 3 other dealerships id located a suitable vehicle at, the guy on the phone swore to me that I could buy a nearly identical 2017 Honda civic for the same listed price and there would be absolutely no required add ons to the sale.

Sooooo I guess I'm going there tomorrow morning. Couldn't go tonight cus that place was closing in like 15 minutes.

So I’m in the market for a new car. I found one I like sold by a private seller online. It’s too far away to check out in person in any quick way so before I travel there I want to be as sure as possible that I’ll buy it (pending test drive + inspection). Anyway, I look up the carfax and it looks clean/one owner. But then I look up the vin on vincheckup and it also comes back clean but this time it also has records of when it was listed for sale, carfax doesn’t have this. So turns out, according to this report, it has been put up for sale 20 times in the last year with the price decreasing slightly each time. Started out at 23k and is now at 17k. The guy says he has no idea where this is coming from. Isn’t possible the vin check is mistaken? There’s nothing obviously wrong the vehicle, should these sale listings alone give me pause?

Thanks for any advice,

Andy

Hey everyone, I'm at a crossroads trying to decide between a 2025 BMW X5 40i M Sport and a 2025 Lexus RX 500h. This will be a family car (both my wife and I will be driving it), and I'm planning to keep it for at least 10 years. Budget isn't a concern, but I value reliability and long-term ownership value.

After multiple test drives of both vehicles, here's where I stand:

BMW X5 40i M Sport

• Love the driving experience and straight-six engine power
• Better performance and handling
• Concerned about long-term reliability
• Worried about maintenance costs over 10 years
• Never owned a BMW before

Lexus RX 500h

• Solid ride quality
• Proven reliability record from Toyota/Lexus
• Trusted hybrid system
• Less powerful than the BMW
• Also never owned a Lexus

Some key points:

• This is my first luxury SUV
• My wife is fine with either choice
• I do value performance (which is why these are my final two choices)
• I've eliminated all other brands/models from consideration
• I strongly dislike spending money on luxury items that don't last
• Planning to keep the car for 10+ years

For those who have experience with either or both brands, especially long-term ownership:

1. Which would you choose and why?
2. Any major concerns I should consider for either vehicle?
3. How has your experience been with dealer service and maintenance costs?
4. For BMW owners - how has reliability been after the warranty period?
5. For Lexus owners - do you feel the performance trade-off was worth the reliability?

Really appreciate any insights you can share! Thanks in advance.

Wondering what the better deal might be: a 2015 Subaru from a used car dealership with 70,000 mi at the top of my budget, or a 2011 Subaru with 93k from a private seller at half of my budget? I'm seeing a lot of Subarus being listed at the top of my budget with 100,000 miles...why not go for something much cheaper from a private seller? Any opinions on this?

Was curious if it’s realistic to purchase a 2025 Pilot EX-L below MSRP? I’m located in New York if that helps. Im certainly not someone who is shy about ignoring sticker prices, and making my own offer of what I am willing to pay, but I also know no it’s not 10 years ago when that was the norm. The market seems to be more favorable to the buyer compared to two or three years ago, so I’m curious what others think. Thanks.

I’m hoping to bring these numbers to help me negotiate the price of the car I’m hoping to buy

I don’t know to much about cars and I’m in the market to buy a new one.

My eldest is becoming of driving age and I need a beginner friendly vehicle that also has good safety ratings. I will be driving said car for about a year before giving it to her.

The area we live in streets flood frequently, I work different hospitals and the lowest parking garage is 5’7 (wth?!) I also need something to accommodate our family of 5 one being in a car seat.

I currently drive a Tahoe which is too tall for the garages but can easily take on high water and passengers. I’ve considered the Volvo XC90 but I’ve been told (by someone who doesn’t own one) maintenance and upkeep is high. As a single married mother I really need something affordable and reliable as someone who doesn’t know jack s**t about cars.

Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone!

I’m Williams Lewisgton, and I work at BMW, specializing in the sale of both new and certified pre-owned vehicles. If you’re interested in purchasing a BMW or just want to learn more about our offers, feel free to reach out to me directly. I’d be happy to help you find the perfect car that suits your needs!

Looking forward to connecting with you!

Best regards, Lewisgton

2012 Audi TT 2.0L 90,368 mi $15,000

They have a $350 / mo budget and are eyeing the Subaru Impreza. They have never bought a car before, and they have told me that they don't care about the total cost including interest. Only that it is $350/mo or less. So 72 or even 84 months is fine for them and with interest rates anywhere from 4.99 to 8% doesn't matter.

They "feel better" if the car has a warranty, so the typical 3 yr 36K is most likely all they'll find since pre-purchased extended on used cars aren't too common (in the Midwest).

I feel they are making a tremendous mistake approaching the naivity of buying a car with just focusing on the monthly price and giving the dealership a dream buyer they can reap a huge commission on.

Does my concern matter, or are they doing the right thing still ignoring how much they are going to pay for a car if they plan on driving it into the ground.

With their limited driving per year I suggested leasing which they are considering instead of financing. But if they chose to buy, I want to give them assurance and confidence they are approaching this with the right mindset. If I'm wrong, I want to shut up.

I have been out of the car market since 2015. I bought a used Corolla back in 2015 and it's about to hit it's 10 year anniversary in my possession. Great car, but it's starting to fall apart and it FEELS like right now is a weird lull where it may be a good time to finally go after the Corolla hatchback I've been interested in. I've always been crap at buying cars, and terrible at negotiating a deal that seems like it's in my favor.

They've been really popular and the whole car market has been f-ed since covid, so I know pretty much everything has sold for MSRP or over, but it seems like things are slowing down a bit. My local dealer has a used 2024 corolla hatch on the lot thats been there for a few weeks. A few other local dealers have 'in production' 2025s coming in the next month that I can put a deposit on and they have been available for a few weeks too.

1. Is there any negotiation in a transaction nowadays, or is it just 'here's the price, take it or leave it'?
2. Used 2024 Corolla Hatch vs. New 2025? Seems like price is a wash (both are ~$25k), but may have more wiggle room on the used one to save a few bucks? Maybe not?

Seems like the hatch is except from any promotional deals vs. the sedan due to the popularity. Assuming I enjoy it on a test drive, is there anything I should keep in mind, or be sure to ask?

I'm in the market to buy a new car. We are looking at a kia Sorrento 7 seater. I would like advice. We have looked at some cars, and some have like 60kms for around $35-39k (Australian), and the top spec I have just seen one for 45k but has done 115km in 3 years. With cars 2021. Both still have a 6-year manufacturer warranty, both been serviced by the dealer and well maintained. The higher spec one had everything, including all the safety features, leather everything. The other one has some of it. Does high km matter if it's been well looked after and serviced regularly, or is it a concern that it has done that many kms in 3-4years?

Link to the car with high kms Check out this 2021 Kia Sorento GT-Line Auto AWD MY22. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2021-kia-sorento-gt-line-auto-awd-my22/OAG-AD-23901416

Link to lower spec low kms Check out this 2021 Kia Sorento Sport Auto AWD MY21. https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2021-kia-sorento-sport-auto-awd-my21/OAG-AD-23776164

Thanks!

Im currently looking at three Honda Civic Hatchbacks in the Sport Touring trim and am having trouble deciding which one I should buy, if any. I'm planning to drive this car until the wheels fall off, so I'd love to make the most reliable pick and get the best bang for my buck. Which would you pick?

2019 Honda Civic Hatchback - Sport Touring Color: Aegean Blue Metallic 17k miles $25,500 OTD I like the 10th Gen body style, and I really like the blue color. I also like the way the 10th Gen handles. I'm worried that the road noise will be rough since this doesn't have the added sound insulation of the 2020 refresh.

2020 Honda Civic Hatchback - Sport Touring Color: Sonic Gray Pearl 19k miles $27,750 OTD I like the updated 10th Gen body style even more, and the gray is my second favorite color option. My only concern here is that I'll regret not having the updated comfort and convenience features of the 11th Gen.

2023 Honda Civic Hatchback - Sport Touring Color: Sonic Gray Pearl 37k miles $27,600 OTD I like the added comfort and convenience features like blind spot monitoring and wireless carplay, but this has higher mileage and I prefer the 10th men's styling. I'd probably add an HPD spoiler to this eventually.

What would you recommend?

I have an appointment to get a car at Drive time. I recently moved out of stare because my house was destroyed by a hurricane and I have family here. Anyway, I just started my new job. My car was totaled due to a tree and I'm in desperate need of a car. They need a proof of income, but I haven't even gotten my first paycheck, and I won't get one until after the appointment. Will an offer letter work, and I can give them proof of income when I get paid? Or how will that work?

Thought we did our due diligence having a third party mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection on 2013 highlander hybrid we were buying. Mechanic inspection came back clean, they said it was a good buy. On the drive home the check engine light came on, checked the codes at auto zone: P0012 - expensive camshaft repair, and the big one: P0A80 - replace hybrid battery. I asked the third party mechanic how they could have missed those and they said either the dealership was shady and had just cleared them and their diagnostics weren't enough to trigger them, or we got extremely unlucky. We just picked up the car last night, didn't get an extended warranty (research said they almost always a terrible deal and they'll fight not to cover anything), reached out to the dealership salesman and he's "talking to his manager to see what they can do, if anything." Do we have any recourse in this situation? Does Washington's implied warranty law apply here? We bought the car in Seattle but we live in Oregon. Any advice appreciated!

Hey everyone, looking for some advice.

We recently signed a four-year lease for a 2025 BMW in Canada. After a long negotiation, we managed to secure a great rate, around 5% instead of the listed 7%, which we were really happy with. We were very specific about wanting the Driver Assist PRO and Park Assist PRO packages, and the dealership agreed, so we signed the lease, paid a $2000 deposit, and thought everything was locked in.

Now, the dealership has reached out, saying these packages won’t be available until cars produced in December, meaning our car delivery wouldn’t be until January. They mentioned our cars would be among the first to receive these features, which sounds good, but then they noted that they can’t guarantee the same lease rate and residuals at pickup if there are any interest rate changes by January. The dealership says they would have to go by the rates and programs active at that time, which seems like they might increase.

Our contract does say it’s final unless the car isn’t delivered within 90 days of the due date—January delivery would still be within that window, so technically, the contract is still valid.

Is this a normal situation with factory orders, or are they trying to backpedal on the deal we got? Would you recommend pushing back and insisting they stick to the agreed terms, or should I approach this differently?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I have been shopping to lease a 2024 Wrangler. I have gone to several dealership websites and while doing so have done the "Calculate Your Payment" forms, which eventually lead to a sales rep reaching out. After speaking with the sales rep over the phone I ended up going to that dealership, which was like an hour away.

Long story short, for a 36mo 30k miles lease the online payment calculator showed me a price of $450/mo based on a credit score which was less than my actual credit score. What they offered me when I arrived at the dealership was $780/mo for the SAME EXACT DEAL.

When showing them how the online part worked, they were all like 🤷‍♂️ "Sorry don't know what to tell you, this is our price." Needless to say I walked away.

I was expecting the payment to go up anywhere from $50 to $100 more than what the online amount showed. But over $300+ was crazy.

Anyone else have this experience before? Am I being to naive about it. Also I've bought like 6 cars from dealerships in my lifetime all over the US so I know how the buying process works but this was incredibly different.

I would like to hear others’ opinion on how if any effect the new administration will have on electric and hybrid vehicles. Will manufactures continue to transition to electric vehicles now that this election has produced leadership that is deniers of global warming and climate change, and against alternative and green energy sources? Plus, Tesla’s Musk didn’t contribute millions of dollars daily to that campaign for no reason.

Hi what kind of records will they want from me ? Also I'd I cosign with my partner will they ask for the same records ?

Hey guys, I travel back and forth weekly to see my family. I live in my city half the time and drive up to see my family the other half. The distance is about 280 miles each way. I’m looking to buy a new car but wondering which model/make would be the most convenient for these trips? Thanking in advance!

Hi, all. Looking for a reality check. USA here and I’m thinking now may be a good time to buy before Trump takes office again and imposes his tariff plans. Does anyone have a good rule of thumb on how a 10% or 20% tariff could impact car prices? I know parts are imported and some manufacturers assemble in the US, some in other countries. Would this impact, for example, BMW and Mercedes more than Honda and Chevy? Thanks, all.

Hi- I’m not very knowledgable about the car world and I’d love advice on my situation. I currently have a 2018 Kia Forte (most basic trim level) with 80,000 miles. Full transparency it has some deep dings on about all four corners and is missing the column cover from attempted theft. I am 3 out of 5 years into my loan, with $5,000 left on it. I just found out that my camshaft broke and now my engine needs an overhaul, including also replacing my timing chain/gear, a valve cover gasket. I was quoted $5,700 for this job. (no warranty on this) At this point-f this car, but I still owe on the loan. The dealership offered me a trade-in value of $4,000, which is more than I expected. Do I just trade-in there and get another Kia? Do I take my car elsewhere? What would you do?

TLDR: Car “totaled” with engine needing serious work-what’s the financially smartest way to get rid of it and get a new car?

want to first say I know it is not worth much and I do not want to sell it for more than it’s worth to someone. Would it be better to sell it for parts?

2011 kia optima. 270,000 miles (I know that is a lot)

Damages:

• It has scratches on the paint on one side
• I broke my right side mirror and my dad reattached it by drilling it back on. It still moves but the paint is messed up cuz I had to duct tape it for awhile
• part of the undercarriage/shield fell off cuz I ran over cardboard boxes on the freeway but there is no damage to the actual car parts
• the charger port does not work
• when I go over speed bumps it squeaks so I think that is a suspension issue

Pros:

• Lifetime warranty on engine
• No other damage other than things listed above, other than the suspension issue and scratches everything is fine
• no collisions (the scratches were from scratching against a wall)

I don’t know anything about cars. My dad said to list it for $2000 but I don’t know if it is worth that much

I would like to know which is a better deal in terms of price, reliability, etc. Used mazda6 2021 with 38000km at around 22.5k+tax or a brand new corolla se 2025 at 29k+ tax ?

Considering that i'm planning to keep the car long term as long as possible.

I drive around 18000km per year.

Note: i can get the corolla in around 1 month

I started a youtube channel to help fund my dream lowrider. All the proceeds from the channel go to buy and building the car would appreciate if I could get some support. I post lowrider shorts of sweet rides. Lmk if you want me to post your sweet ride

Here's the channel - https://www.youtube.com/@TheeLowrider

Thanks!!!

https://www.olympianissan.com/inventory/new-2024-nissan-kicks-s-fwd-crossover-3n1cp5bv1rl584426/?utm_source=cars.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=cars.com_deeplink

11.02% for 72 Months!? Ripoff.

I’m looking to buy a 2009 Infinity G37 on facebook marketplace but wondering if it’s worth

Fresh Motor Clean Title (with minor hail damage) Check engine light on claims it’s because test pipes

Mods: Tien Coilovers lsr single exhaust +Y pipe Berk Resonated test pipes Sport front bumper IPL rear bumper Z1-Aluminum under shroud Spec-d headlights

all for $8,500 i plan to have a mechanic look at it before purchasing but should i look elsewhere instead? scared the engine will brick in 4 months or something.

Need advice here, Im in the market for used cars. Never had to buy one for myself so its going to be my first time. I came across this Pre-owned Toyota 2023 Corolla Hybrid in Carson, CA:

https://www.toyotacarson.com/inventory/certified-used-2023-toyota-corolla-hybrid-le-all-wheel-drive-sedan-jtdbdmhe0p3000982/

They have about 10 of these hybrid corollas listed under 10 miles. pretty much brand new. I just want to know why are they listed as pre-owned with under 10 miles and if this is really a good deal and buy one?

Thank you