Ill have a need to purchase a car in the next couple months and im debating going with a lease with intention to buy at the end of the term. My income is structured in a way that provides me with 15k-20k net bonus in march every year. I was thinking about putting that bonus down on a lease to get my payment very low then at the end of the term use my 15k-20k bonus again and either payoff the car or have a very reasonable payment with hopefully a better interest rate environment. I realize there are lease fees that probably add 1,000 to the over all price but my thinking is that it’s worth it given the added expense of financing currently and my flexibility with my bonus. You think this is a good idea or am I missing something completely?

I've gotten so much work done on this car to make it perfect. I know KBB bases the value of your car on others so idk if I should specifically trust them.

I've gotten the transmission replaced with a new one, seals replaced, new oil, new tires, new brake pedal switch, etc. and I have all the paper work in my glove box

Silver exterior and leather interior (no rips) looks very well for its age. It only has 94,500 miles on it. No lights or codes on it at all.

I wanted to know if $3,700 would be a good trade-in price for it, for when I go to the dealer to get a car I'd rather invest in.

That car is a 2022 Genesis G70 3.3tt AWD. It's the best all around car for me. Reliability, Tunability, and it has a mix of JDM and German esque that I absolutely love.

I have a lengthy story of why I want to sell this over-taken care of 2002 Honda accord.

During highschool, my mom made me go through hell while I was slaving at work to make enough money to buy a nice car, taking thousands out my account while in highschool.

I was okay with her using it for some bills but she also used it for her lifestyle and for my older brother. Could've had $13k, ended up with $9k.

She pressured me and had the audacity to have absolutely no patience for me looking for a car to buy with the money. She didn't want to go out of MD to go to Virginia for the better priced cars either. Also college was in a week so I had to think fast.

The 2002 honda accord which was $7400 before taxes and fees which was already overpriced. The dealer was scheming on me because he saw my situation.

Apparently dealers love seeing parents come in with their sons because they see a opportunity.

Also while test driving the car, the transmission was slipping. I didn't know what it'd felt like so I didn't even notice.

After taxes, it was near $9k for a 2002 Honda accord with a slipping transmission. Also had alot of bad luck with it for this same year. Alot of Auto shop visits.

Please give me your thoughts!

First off I’ve already fucked myself over financially in the past because of my love for fast cars. I’m not looking to repeat that by getting caught up in performance numbers. So I’m looking for good, reliable cars for maybe $3-6k total. I’ll be on a fixed income after I spend-down my backpay, so insurance costs, repair costs, gas mileage, and reliability are obviously very important. I’d love to hear what cars you know of that maybe aren’t the standard fare (Honda Accord, Toyota Camry), though I don’t mind having a case made for those either. Thank you!

im torn between a Toyota Tacoma or an Audi Q5. any thoughts?

Hii, I’m curious if you guys think this is a reasonable price for this car, it has very minor cosmetic damage, a small tear in one seat (their all beige leather) and some paint fading but i don’t mind that at all, it looks so pretty and is my dream honda accord for this price

it only has 140k miles the only thing putting me off is it has 19mg

When we split, my partner will get the minivan and I will have the 2016 corolla. It's perfectly fine, but I'm considering trading in for something a bit bigger. I don't like huge vehicles, unless it's a minivan. Other than that, mid-size SUV is a big as I can go with my 5'0" self and t-rex arms.

Priorities are safety, reliability, decent cargo space (think 8-hour roadtrip w/ two adults, a 10 year old, and a mid-size dog), and under $800/mo (assume great credit score.) Used cars are fine, but wouldn't want more than a few years old or over 60k mileage.

Any suggestions? I've had great luck with Toyotas, but don't know enough about other makes to know what I should consider.

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EDITING TO ADD: My partner and I will have 50/50 split custody and time so it’s important we both have kid-friendly and kid-safe vehicles.

Needing advice. Bought a used Dacia for £5k. It was snowing and rush hour, so only managed a limited test drive. Salesman said I had 14 days to return it, so I put a deposit down.

Completed the sale and collected the car on Thursday. Car broke down on Friday - it became improsdible to get a gear and the clutch started dragging. Thought I'd have to recover the car but managed to carefully drive it to the dealership. The same salesman had a shot and agreed the gearbox wasn't how it had been.

They had the car from Sunday to Thursday. I tried to reject the car on Thursday but was told they had fixed an issue with the gearbox and why not try it? I couls still return within 14 days.

Collected on Friday. On Sunday, on the same route, the issue occurred again. Brought tge car back on Monday.

Manager came out and refused to honour 14 day period, claimed this would never have been offered. Also said they didn't accept the car was faulty. Told me he couldn't do anything, his boss would phone me today. I left a letter detailing my rejection of the car.

Today - no phone call. Called myself and got the same guy who again repeated that there was no 14 day period and that there was no fault.

I don't really know what to do. I'm disabled and I don't have the energy for this. I should have gone motability but it would have cost all of my benefit to do it.

Any advice greatly appreciated

I am looking to trade in my vehicle on a new car. The dealer (Tesla) is using Auto check for valuation, which incorrectly shows my car was used as a rental vehicle. I purchased my car new, from the dealership.

This is an older vehicle (Toyota Highlander, 2008, Base, 215K), but I have to assume that this has a negative impact on the valuation. My question is- how much would this matter? Is it worth fighting over?

I know the used car market has taken a dive recently, but Tesla is only offering me $1900 for the trade-in, which I thought was low. I think this may be why. I get it, it's an old car and almost certainly going to Manheim and I don't think it's worth $100K, but one can hardly find a junker these days for $1900. Am I wrong about this?

Autocheck is asking for a letter from the State of Florida regarding the title correction, which I am not holding my breath for. That's clearly their 'out'. I offered a copy of the original bill of sale which states the vehicle is new, and they refused. I guess the possibility exists that this was sold to me under false pretenses, but I have no indication of that being the case.

Any advice?

I am in a bind to find a new car after being in an accident as my rental coverage through insurance is about to expire. Any tips on finding a specific model car ASAP? After much research I have decided I want the 2025 Chevy Traverse with the RS trim as it has all the bells and whistles. Since I tend to hold on to cars long term I don't want the car to start to feel dated quickly by buying on the lower end (my last car was 11 years old and still in perfect condition before the crash). My local dealership initially indicated doing a trade with another dealership would not be a problem to get the trim I wanted. Now it has been dragging on for a while and still no trade has been finalized.

It seems my only options are to suck it up and pay for a rental in the meantime or perhaps get a lesser car on as short a lease as possible and upgrade later on.

All advise is appreciated.

Needing a car for work that I'll put a lot of miles on. Won't drive anything other than an SUV, the smallest being an Explorer. Looking to stay in the $35K range.

Suggestions?

I have a part time job making $18 & about 30 hours a week. A car I was borrowing was taken back. I need a car asap & I have a 690 credit score. I’m a high school graduate with mainly warehouse experience. I want to get into a carpenter trade but all the companies I emailed told me I have to wait till next year. What should I do? Should I just take a loan out of $500 for a down payment on a car?

What's a good used care website to use?

Next year I’ll start looking for a 30k new car (SC/NC state). I see ppl complaining about the add-ons the dealers try to push, but I don’t if they can really help. Maybe configuring it online is a better option? Ideas?

What cars work best in your experience?

First car purchase without paying cash here, so please forgive me if I’m missing obvious answers:

I have been looking at upgrading vehicles for the last few months in my home state of Colorado (Toyota 4Runner). My career involves a lot of driving in all kinds of weather. I am a finalist for a similar community outreach position in Hawaii that would also require my own transportation in all conditions.

With my ‘02 Honda CRV at ~280k, it makes no sense to me to ship to HI just for me to purchase another vehicle and then have to find a way to sell the high-mileage Honda.

I would, however, need almost immediate transportation once I arrive in HI for my work duties. I have no friends/family in HI who could check out the vehicle for me. How would you approach purchasing a vehicle located in an island state without seeing it in-person?

Clean title car I no longer need that I want to give to my sibling. What steps do I need to complete?

1. sign title

2. Complete Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability (NRL)

3. Give title sibling to register car title under her name

Hey Canadian friends! Looking for a fun used car for 15k to 7500, open to anything but Mustangs. Will also consider offroad SUVs no older than 09. Prefer a fun performance car no older than 08. I want something half decent, ideally no beaters for that price.

I am interested in the Mazda CX-30 2.5s. I found an lease offer on the Mazda website that I like. I emailed a few dealers who had relevant inventory - and 2 of them came back to me saying that they can't share price breakdowns unless I visit them in person. Is that normal? How can I respond?

Hey all I am looking for a newer car and years between 2021 and 2022 price range wise fit the budget. Now at what point is it too miles on the car both years. Looking at SUVs. Mazda, Toyota, Honda and Subaru. Essentially only Japanese because I come from a family that only buys Japanese cars and they’re amazing and easy enough to work on.

Thank you!

Exploring both leading and Financing. Really just want the lowest payment possible. I am in outside sales and drive a lot of miles and am worried about buying a car new and putting a lot of miles on it out the gate. Any insight is appreciated.

New 2024 LT Colorado is $27,999 but dealer is adding over $2000 in additional add-ons (nitrogen tires, tint, paint protection, bed liner, and so on). How do I negotiate this off the price of the car? I don’t want any of it. By the way every car dealership in San Antonio TX does this.

I'm looking at purchasing a used 2017 Toyota Aygo (Mileage: 28200). I've test driven it and it goes fairly smoothly, however I wasn't able to do much motorway driving and I do a lot of travelling (at least once a year I drive 200+ miles one way in a single sitting to see family) and was wondering if a car of that size is really suited to that sort of stress, opinions?

How much is a good price to buy a 2017 Jaguar f type r, I am looking at handful and I am getting mostly 45-46k OTD , and they're all around 20k to 45k miles, is there a tool to check, I don't trust carfax or online listing price gauges, has anyone purchased this car,how much did you pay?

Hello All, I am buying a new 2025 Honda hybrid AWD CRV in USA (NC). They are offering a few more add ons like extended warranty for 150k miles or 10 years, Armor protection for exterior, GAP insurance, tires/rim protection plans etc. Do you guys know if I should really get any of these products? Is it worth the money?

Thanks for your response.

So I found my dream car (2006 Acura integra wide body)only 1200 bucks away from getting it guys holding it until wensday January 11th for a additional 200 and with gas to get there and both vehicles back (other car is my buddies) and my bank took my money on a payment I paused but a didn’t work bc the request was put in on a Sunday and they had a power outage and apparently “the servers don’t save pending requests with 24 hours and reboots the talk text help in the banking app”. Like wtf is that no I wouldn’t trip, or stress bc I got it easy no rent only pay 200 and some change a month for phone bill dog food and I have a steady job. as of yesterday I am on mandatory vaccination for 2 weeks like seriously the timing could not be more wrong in my life. Any advice or guidance I could get Ik that’s corny but Iv worked so hard last 2 years for this wensday (jan11th) and I’m slowly watching my ship sink while I scramble to look for side work or even a loan and I pay back with interest like almost open to anything I can’t let this dream escape me.

Despite enough to drop the cashapp no spaces ignore-the dots there so I don’t get flagged anything is appreciated seriously

$benjinson ——— cashapp tag Dream car portfolio and parts trade

Hi, I live in CT and am looking to buy a car in NY. I’m 18 so this would be my first car. I know there are things you need to legally drive a car (like insurance and registration), but I’m wondering how I’d go about that with buying an out of state car.

It’s troubling because I’d prefer to take the car home day of purchase due to the commute. It’s said that you should have ins and reg situated before driving the car anywhere, but what if there’s something that leads me to not purchasing the car (like issues with the car or shady dealership)? Plus, I believe you need an inspection before even getting registration. How am I supposed to do that if I don’t even own the car? Or how am I supposed to get the car inspected without being able to drive it to my state?

Is there a cheap short term option for ins and reg that I could get and not lose a lot out of pocket if I don’t end up buying the car? Or is my only option to commute, buy the car, go home and get everything situated, commute back and take the car home?

If I sound ridiculous and I’m making this sound harder than it is or am misunderstanding, please don’t judge. Like I said I’m freshly 18 and no one in my family has purchased a car in CT to be familiar with the laws, so I’m clueless and google only offers so much help.

So. My friend bought a car is is having payments monthly on it. Due to bills she never had money left over to get her registration and tag. So it’s been overdue for a year and a half now. What is her best bet? Surrender the vehicle? Sell it? Trade it in and ask for the tag to be added to the price?

I want to buy a new car from my dealership. The car I want is currently located in the showroom, and the dealership said instead of test driving that one, I should test drive another car of the exact same model/trim with the exact same specs. I loved the other one I test drove, but I still want to test drive the actual car I want in the showroom before I purchase it.

Should I not worry about it and purchase it knowing the one I test drove is similar enough? I've never purchased a new car (only used) so I don't know how important it is to test drive the specific new car you want to buy. Would you ask to test drive the specific car before purchasing, or be okay knowing that you already test drove something else that's exactly the same?

Hi guys, I was wondering if it’s possible to buy a car now at a dealer and collect it in March. Reason being that, Winter where I live is terribly dangerous, and I won’t fly to go get it as its very risky, and I heard December is the right time to make a good deal, so I don’t want to miss the shot. What do you guys think ? Any input would be highly appreciated. Thank you.