I've installed my first mmwave radar sensor and put it to good use with some rock solid, simple automations in my bathroom. My fiance and I haven't touched a switch in months and the sensor + home assistant make sure we never shower without the fan on, reducing humidity and keeping the bathroom mildew free!

I wrote up my detailed setup to share on my website here:

https://houndhillhomestead.com/bathroom-automation-with-the-aqara/

Hello,

Key question: What options are there to consolidate multigang light switches into a single gang scene keypad without centralizing dimmers?

I am in the planning phase of remodeling my home. It is ~3500 sqft. There are a few main areas with multiple 2-4 gang light switches. I was considering Lutron RadioRA3 and hoping to streamline to a scene keypad (Lutron Sunnata Keypad). A Lutron dealer mentioned it requires moving the switches/dimmers to a central location. In turn, my GC has said centralization will be very expensive to rewire and I am already concerned about budget. What alternatives are there?

Couple of options I can think of:

• I found MOES switches which seem to do the trick. However, it seems like a fridge company, mixed reviews, and I cannot identify alternatives if MOES has too many issues / goes under.
• Keep multi gangs and just use smart switches. Perhaps using Sunnata Hybrid Keypad.
• Is there a way to attach a smart device to circuit and bury the dimmer?
  • Seems risky if there is an issue

I am selling my house. My house has large number of connected devices, Alexas, Echos, all the Light switches, various light bulbs, water heater, watering system, plugs, projectors, cameras and sensors.

Almost all the light switches in the house, various Ring cameras and sensors. They all connected to their own apps (Meross, Smart life, Ring etc) and then the apps connected to Alexa through Alexa skills.

There is a middle aged couple that is buying my house that know almost nothing about technology but they are buying it partially due to the smart features that they really liked.

Is there any way I can transfer my ownership of these apps to them, without all the lights and switches in the house getting disconnected?

I am thinking about writing them a short guide on what apps to download for which switch, device, camera, light bulb etc but I think even with my short written guide, it will be difficult for them to re-connect all the lights, switches, devices, as they are not technical and has no experience.

Is there any easy way to transfer them the ownership somehow? Is there something I can do in the apps to transfer the owners?

If not, what is next step for me? Remove and delete each device manually in their own app (Smart life, Ring, Meross) on my phone and just leave the house like that? With all the devices deleted from my account?

Guys, I need some tips and advice. The couple only speaks Spanish so if there are some good beginner videos in Spanish that I could send them, I am also looking for those. Thank you!

I'm looking into Savant as a solution for home automation and I'm curious how customizable is the system.

Is it possible to add a custom interface to the system?

I assume they don't give 3rd party access directly to consumers, but do Savant certified technicians have the ability to add custom interfaces? Is their OS Android based?

I'd like to understand what's the limit with how customized the UI can be.

Hello all, My balcony is next to the common staircase of my apartment complex and there is a motion sensor there that turns on the lights of the stairwell as well as the ones on top of my balcony. My bedrooms are also connected to my balcony so whenever these lights light up, light enters my rooms.

Im on the top floor and there is only one apartment so no one except me and my guests actually come here.

The problem is that it is really sensitive, and the lights are a bit too bright for whenever I just wanna chill in my balcony at night. It turns on when someone is walking on the street sometimes too, randomly lighting up after dark which gets annoying when my curtains are not drawn.

I would like to replace this with the following solution:

• an always off mode. I can override with my phone for it to never turn on.
• an always on mode. When i have guests over, I would like to keep the lights on at all times so it doesnt turn off when people are just chilling and not moving much.
• default mode. It turns on whenever it detects motion.

Power is supplied to this light only after a certain time which is set by the building.

What can I do here? I dont have hubs or DIY setups but Im happy to invest in it.

Hi - I have an old (1992) and, until recently, perfectly functioning gate opener. The brand appears to be "Superior Acc Control System" and the model "Tiger-Lok". I had to replace the chain, and in the process somehow lost the limit settings. Anyone have any idea how to set the open and close limits on this?

https://preview.redd.it/9r19wl72jqed1.jpg?width=2976&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5cb2665e8d81368f4ad7a5c05d96a1099742933c

Anyone have any ideas about a ceiling mount for the TP-Link BE85 (BE22000)? TP-Link says it CAN be mounted upside down. Weights 3# (1.35kg).

I have a customer that used to have an old Onkyo receiver with an iPod hooked into the USB port. He was able to access his iTunes and playlists from his phone to play his music. He had the receiver (100w per channel) running to a speaker selector with volume controls.

He is moving and is looking to replace his old setup because the receiver died. He also does not want to use any paid streaming options, so he’s looking to create something close to his old system. He has a ton of music on iTunes and wants to use that.

I was looking at a Sony STR-AZ1000ES or a Marantz CINEMA 60 AV Receiver with a Synology DS223j to store the music.

My big question is how he would access the media from the NAS to play in the house. Does HEOS support NAS media or just streaming?

Looking for any help to hopefully sell him some gear and get the install as well! Thanks!

Hi,

TDLR : I'm looking for a device that would allow me to control my AC remotely AND will update status in case someone uses the AC remote control (wife and kids...).

Long story :

I tried Mysa Mini split thermostat. Super cool device except wife and kids won't/can't use phone/app to control it.

Mysa was cool because there are buttons on the device so I thought it would replace the remote control but it's too complicated. For example, you need to press a button 4-5 times to cycle every modes until you can finally turn off the device. The result? They don't want to use it and use the remote control instead. Mysa can't update the app even if it receives the signal from the remote so my automations in Home Assistant are not working well with improper status/values.

Anyone know a devices that can send IR signal to AC but can also update the app when someone uses the remote ? I would install it in a way the IR signal is towards it of course.

Home assistant support is also kind of important.

There are so many devices on the market with contradicting informations (sensibo, switch bot hub 2, broalink, Cielo, etc) and I'm kind of lost.

If anyone can share their experience...

thanks!

Hey all!

I got a server a while ago and installed HA on it using virtual box (I want to use it for more than just HA) but after getting my preexisting smart equipment on it I really don't know what else to do. I have issues with focusing for work, so I'd *like* to be able to have a schedule that lists my to-do list one or two Item's at a time synced across the house, but beyond that I'm at a loss of what to do (or really how to do that first idea. I'm thinking something to do with the smart mirror linux program and syncthing?).

Is there an area I can go to find what others have done and how they did it? I get there are some posts but the ones that came up on google tended to be pretty lax in the descriptions.

Thanks in advance!

-Natt

I saw a video recently (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hv6urCTRV70) and wanted to attempt to replicate it. I don't have much electrical knowledge, but here is what I am looking at.

Shelly 1+ UL 4x DS18B20 (Return Air, Supply Air, Vapor, Liquid) 1x DHT22

Shelly EM w/ 50AMP clamp

• Monitoring the Compressor Circuit

24V AC to 12V DC Convertor (24T1812)

My questions are:

1. Can I do both DHT22 and DS18B20? I could use 2x DS18B20 for the Compressor lines and 2x DHT22 for the Supply/Return Ducts to measure how effectively I am removing humidity

2. With the 24V AC to 12V DC convertor, can this power both devices?

3. I have a 24VAC transformer powering my doorbell, could I pull form that, or am I expecting to pull from within the Furnace Cabinet?

4. Would it be beneficial to add another Shelly EM for monitoring the Furnace circuit also (mostly for fan power draw)?

The Shelly 1 seems to have all the functionality I am looking for but there is no ZigBee version. The Aqara T2 is awesome except the switch terminals only work when powering it with high voltage AC such at 110V. Then there is this MHCOZY relay that seems like a great, inexpensive option, but it doesn’t have any switch terminals.

Does anyone make a DC powered ZigBee relay that can also be controlled via a switch?

Leviton D2ELV

Works with Matter, My Leviton, Alexa, Google, SmartThings, and Apple Home. Available now.

Press Release

Spec Sheet

I need a 12V DC "smart relay" capable of carrying 500ma of current and a door sensor which reports open/close events AND can be queried for status at any time - and that's all (for now)

This needs to be controllable from Linux - ideally via Python

My limited research suggests a couple of options

Shelly...

Shelly do a Wifi Door/Window Switch which has a web interface - this would be ideal BUT I understand these devices can be hard on batteries and slow to report events???

Shelly also offer a variety of relays and they appear to be controllable in a similar fashion - so no gateways or other gubbins required???

Sonoff/Zigbee

I understand using a Zigbee setup offers faster updates/status reports and uses less power?

Sonoff do a USB stick gateway which appears to work with Linux and I assume - along with a window/door sensor and relay - is all I really need to make this work???

Which is better?

I already have Wifi everywhere so Wifi devices make sense - I know a Zigbee setup could have range/interference issues and as I'm only using 2 devices upfront, it's probably overkill at this point UNLESS I'm missing something?

Are there other options I should consider???

Thanks

Hi,

I have a few NOUS A1Z smart plugs, and they're all set to power state after power loss on - which means, if I lose power, when they recover they should default to being on and delivering power to whatever is connected.

Lately my power company has been having a lot of issues with delivering proper clean power, here's a 2h graph from one of the sockets:

https://preview.redd.it/zjjb3p27xmed1.png?width=1562&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b1f72708c525d41e447a3f649e7b453afaea5c3

Now, in this unstable scenarios, in a completely random fashion, the A1Z it no longer honors the recovery setting, and I often find the plug turned off, and then when I manually push the button on the device it turns on as expected.

Has anyone else observed the Nous A1Z behaving in the same way, or is the erratic behavior explained by the power fluctuations alone?

That being said, is there anything I can tweak on the A1Z so that i can workaround the current power problems i'm having, and it honors the power recovery setting, keeping things like my furnace and frigde operating?

My kid’s super curious about this weird buddy that just sucked up the fur tumbleweeds from the carpet lol.

https://preview.redd.it/0hqkkl1jrked1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0dc46e8f2ddb98a6d91ed173d74c63e74b274796

I currently have Insteon FanLincs paired with 6 button KeypadLincs to control my fans and of course I'm starting to see them slowly die. It seems there's nothing directly comparable in either zigbee only or zwave only setups.

I know Inovelli has this Smart Fan & Light Canopy Module which is a great replacement for the FanLinc but I can't for the life of me find any multi button switches or remotes that have similar functionality as the KeypadLinc would have. I found Zooz makes this Scene Controller that would be a perfect fit but of course they only do zwave.

Is there a zigbee remote similar to what I'm looking for (zigbee2mqtt), a zwave (zwave2mqtt) comparible thing to the fan controller, or something else I'm not thinking of for an option? I know about the Sonoff iFan but I want to stay away from wifi stuff if at all possible to keep things simpler and reduce network congestion plus I've tried one and find the remote kinda clunky and doesn't fit well on a wall with other switches. I'm also using OpenHAB for my system, not Home Assistant for what it's worth.

I just noticed a 50-second delay in the Instant Alarm on my ADT system. It used to be Instant when armed. How do I change it back?

I have the Ultraloq Smart lever. We moved and I am trying to reinstall it at the new home. When I try and install it via the app it finds the lock, etc. no issue. But then when I try and unlock it despite the app saying "unlocked" the door does not unlock. Same thing in reverse when locking. Any idea what is going on? The app says I have the latest firmware.

Dear all,

In the apartment I'm renting there is no intercom system, just a button that when you keep press opens the door downstairs.

I was checking how to be able to integrate it with Home Assitant. Ideally, I would like to avoid the "Finger bot" because there is no good place to stick it.

Also, I would like to ask more information about it:

• I assume the black cable connected to L is the "live" cable which carries the power.
• The white cable, I was expecting it to be connected to N (neutral), but it is connected to SW4.

Does anyone know what is this SW 4?

Also, at the end of the socket, there is a red cable. Is that useful for something?

The ideal scenario would be having some zigbee relay there but I'm not sure if I can install it, since I think it requires more cables.

Thanks!

Hey folks, I’m in the process of cleaning up our Power panel/home av/networking box for a 2 story house we bought a few months ago. I found a disconnected cable (at both ends) that runs to our 2nd level Bonus room but I can find a use for it can can’t fathom what equipment it would be for. Description on the cable says FT-4 LL61365 or CSA AWM II A/B 600v ROHS. Picture attached for reference.

What types of equipment would this type of cable connect?

I can’t get what would seem like an east automation to work. Toggle light on at Sunset, toggle light off at sunrise. I have two switches and I can’t both to turn off at sunrise.

This should be done on a device level right? I was initially trying to put the switches in an “area” and then use that to turn on and off but that never worked as I could not assign the same area to two devices.

I’m new to Home Assistant so maybe I am not setting up my schedule correctly?

Hello, having a hard time trying to get some roller blinds to work with RF blasters. I currently am trying a bond bridge and I can get the bridge to recognize the commands from the 433mhz controller but when it says to test them, it does not work on the device. Latest firmware, iPhone, I’ve set it up a few times and I’ve placed the bond bridge at all angles to the device and can’t get it to work. Please help

I have an external side gate to my house that currently has a dead bolt with padlock on the inside with no access to the lock from the outside. I would like to put in a smart lock that could be used with a pin or a NFC card from the outside but I need the locking mechanism to be very strong/solid on the inside and should require pin/NFC on the inside as well, any suggestions?

I'm able to connect the Kasa KS225 light switch to my Kasa app and to my Alexa. However, I keep getting the following error whenever I try to connect to Apple Home using the matter QR code:

"Unable to Add Accessory. Pairing with accessory failed."

I tried restarting and resetting the light switch. Neither solved this problem for me. I also tried enabling an independent 2.4GHz network on my router and connecting my phone and the light switch to that network after resetting the light switch. That didn't work either.

Any ideas on what else I can do to get this light switch to connect to Apple Home? I purchased this version specifically for its ability to connect to Apple Homekit, and I'm not able to.

Have the aforementioned door lock. Unfortunately, if someone slams the door, the door "over closes" and the YN won't lock. Is there anything that will PREVENT this over closing so the YN lock with always work remotely?

Hi, I'm new here. I want to make my home smart, but I ran into difficulty understanding the differences between Zigbee, Zwave and Matter. So I ask you if someone who knows these systems can help me understand the differences and which is the best. My idea to start my smart home is to make the switches in my house smart via the smart switches that go behind the switch, I saw that there are several compatible with both Zigbee and matter but I don't know the differences or which is the best for my case. Thanks in advance!