/r/DIY
DIY
All content must be DIY and your own work - if you paid for the work or found it posted online it is not DIY.
All project submissions must include photos, detailed instructions, photos and/or videos. r/DIY does not want low effort posts.
Research first before posting a questions. Check Google and the search bar before turning to /r/DIY. Your question needs include the research you've done to find an answer yourself, or why that research did not answer your question. This is a basic requirement so others do not spend time repeating your steps. Note: - Using /r/DIY as your private search engine is not allowed.
Rude, abusive, toxic or harassing behavior, sexually suggestive or inappropriate comments will be removed and the user permanently banned at the moderator's discretion.
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/r/DIY
A few months back i bought a new home and decided i wanted to build a sauna. After selecting a spot in the yard i drew out some simple plans and started to buy materials. we had a wet start to the winter here in Northern California so after building the deck/floor i framed the walls in my garage.
The shape of the sauna was dictated by a redwood tree growing in the back right corner of the space. Having the shape of the structure 5 sided like it is saved some square footage, and allowed me to make a diagonal bench to maximize the interior sitting space.
I insulated the entire structure with 1.5 inch EPS foam sheets and doubled it to 3" in the roof and top of the walls. Over the insulation i added foil vapor barrier and seam tape.
After framing i clad the building in 1x4 redwood to match a recent retaining wall i built. for the interior of the sauna i used cedar. Sourcing reasonably priced cedar was difficult. In the end i found a farm selling extra 2x5 corral boards that i cut in half long ways, and planned to the thickness i wanted. this part of the build was really labor intensive and the end results of the interior wood isn't as clean as i would have liked. But all told i only spend $300 on all the cedar for the benches and the interior.
With the money i saved on wood, i bought a nice HUUM 6kw heater and wifi controller. I tiled the floor in penny tile that i got from home depot. I also added a cold plunge made out of an old wine barrel that i found from a winery
I've had it up and running for a week and it works great, gets HOT and stays hot long after i turn off the heater. Overall i'm very happy with the build and wanted to share it with reddit. I did tons of research here before i started, so thanks everybody.
We bought our house 9 years ago. Poured founation ranch style house.The first year we got about 1 inch of water coming up from cracks in floor and joint that floor meets wall.(Hydrostatic pressure)I decided to gut the entire basment down to concrete and found that it must have been happening for years with the amount of mold I found. I saw cut floor, dropped in plastic basin, drilled holes to allow water to enter basin. Material under house seems to be all beach sand. It has been 9 years and I haven't had any water coming in and it's time to finish the basement. Kids need a play room
The rear of house has some grading issues that needs some expensive hardscape to correct and that seems to be the side of the house that got the most water . That side of house had some efforesences on walls as well. All down spouts have been buried and drain out to an easment 75 feet away from house. I was planning on doing a perimeter drain on the interior and pipe it all to a second pump. Drill holes in bottom of foundation wall behind drain tile material to release any pressure on walls but it's a lot of work . I'm wondering if I can just get away with another sump pit or maybe just a partial perimeter drain on the side of house that has bad grading. I just dont want to put a bunch of money into basement and get water again.it seems like because of the sand below the house the water doesn't have a hard time finding the pump. Doesnt the water on outside of foundation wall eventually end up under slab? I'm thinking a second pump pit may handle it. The only time the pump ever turns on is after the snow melts and the water has no were to go. It will turn on every 15 mins for about a week and that's it unless we have really heavy rain for a few days . Other then that it never turns on. I am a sewer and drain specialist by trade so I have a good grasp on how water works and how it can really mess up your day. If I could have it my way the kids play room would be on the roof. I'm basically looking to see if there is any knowledgeable people can chime in and give me some advice.
I'm wanting to place peel & stick tiles over my existing kitchen backsplash which is a little bit of an uneven surface. If anyone has advice for how to get them to stick, I would appreciate it! However my sample tile seems to be sticking just fine.
I want a pattern that I can't find, and so I was thinking of cutting these tile sheets into individual tiles and interspersing them so that it could be a checked pattern of green and white. Is that a horrible idea?
Edit: replacing the photos because they were too low quality
I found a steel saw tabletop in my garage after we moved in, still packaged up in a wood create, looks to be from the early 90's based on the notes. It's about 27" x 21" x 1 1/2" thick. It's pretty heavy, probably 60 - 70 pounds I'd estimate it. I don't think it's worth it for me to haul to the steel recycler, and I'm not planning to use it. I can't help but thinking it may possibly be worth something. Do people still purchase individual saw tabletops by themselves? Is there a market for them? I'm going to put it on Craigslist, any thoughts on a fair price?
Trying to replace the awful 9" tub spout and ended up dropping it near the base/edge of the tub (sucks).
I'm going to drill the small corners (relieve stress), rough sand (hopefully better adhesion) and use the JB waterweld putty (the one you mix together forever) to try to fix this hole. This tub is on the first floor and house is on a concrete slab.
What really concerns me is that there is no 'backing' - I can stick my flathead way down the hole. Am I on the right track, or is there a better way to do this?
Thank you!!!
I have bamboo taking over a corner of my yard that is coming from my neighbors yard. Approximately 1/4 acre. If I'm going to spend the time and energy to cut it down and eradicate it, I would like to be able to use the bamboo for something. I have a way to cure it in borax and dry it. With that being said, my daughter lives in a camper trailer while attending college. Has anyone ever used bamboo fencing as skirting? If so, what are the pros and cons of using it? I have never worked with bamboo before. So, any information you have will be greatly appreciated.
Hi there,
Just bought a house and we move on March 1st. Unfortunately, the previous previous owners took out the bathroom window and bricked it back up.
I've received a few quotes, but the prices have been really high. Even more unfortunate is that, we need to renovate the bathroom because it's in a terrible shape. For that, we are going to gut and re-do the bathroom ourselves, DIY style. For us to have a window, means that we have to install the window prior to the bathroom renovation.
Although the previous opening was a 28x48" (based on the brick measurement), we plan to making it a bit shorter for privacy reasons. The window is right above the tub and faces the backyard. We would like it to be neck-up.
My window guy has quoted me $790 for a brick-to-brick installation. He has also quoted me an option to remove the brick, install a sill, and a window for a total of $2600. A different masonary place quoted me $1800 just to do the opening.
So on the DIY topic, the brick removal seems tedious but doable. I have my father-in-law helping so that'll be great as he's very handy. I guess my big question is: how much am I really signing up for? the brick removal aspect doesn't seem too hard. I'm more concerned about framing the window itself.
Thanks!
Hi. I am having trouble with a midea washer/dryer combo model MLC31N5AWW. After its done washing it shows an e21 code(clogged hose or dryer motor). Took it all apart yesterday and changed the hose, nothing in the motor. It will wash clothes fine but throws the code before draining. If i put it on dry after, itll drain just fine. Not sure whats happening.
One of those times I should have left well enough alone but didn't!
I recenrly found a wedge piece for my smart doorbell (Logitech Circle) and decided to install it to see the area in front of the door better. Should have been a 5 minute job but somehow the voltage is now ~ 4V (its 16V at the transformer and the same at the chime) and the doorbell wont work.
It looks like the wires are damages as the voltage at the end of the them is less than 1V. I measured 4V back towards the plastic covering. I can't run a new wire by fishing the old one as its sealed inside the wall (looks like foam sealer). Running a new wire would be challenging.
Any ideas? How screwed am I? Worst case scenario I'll get a battery powered doorbell but would prefer to get this one back up and running...
Hey everyone,
This is my first post here and I'm looking for some advice.
My wife and I bought our house from some flippers a few years back and are sick of dealing with some issues so are taking steps to fix it.
Our shower isn't graded/sloped properly and water is sitting in the corner and causing mildew. This is just a week or two since we last cleaned it and you can already see the grout turning brown. Also, cracks are starting to open up between the tiles.
My questions are,
What's the right way to fix this? Tear everything out and start again?
Can I pull up the current tiles without damaging the waterproofing and current shower pan to minimize cost?
I've done a lot of home improvement projects so I'm not afraid of doing the work, but this is my first time working with water proofing, tiles, and grout so I want to make sure I'm doing it right.
Thanks!
My fiancee and I bought our first house over the summer, and the lack of storage in the only full bathroom was killing us. We found a brand new vanity at a local architectural salvage that was the correct size, but it didn't have a countertop - so I built one!
Progress pics are from start to finish of assembling it - getting the base plywood and cutting the hole for the sink (the sink came with the vanity). Attached cement board to the plywood, and mortared the tile on, then filled with caulk. The faucet is from HD and the door pulls are from Etsy.
The scariest part for me was the plumbing since I'd never done any before, but HD had a universal PVC kit that was pretty easy to use. We also repainted, upgraded the blinds, added a new shower rod and curtain to really tie the room together.
I want to put in 3 shelves in a pantry space that is 46.5" wide.
Would 2"x1" Ledger boards on the sides be enough to hold 3/4"x 18"x46 plywood? Would adding a ledger board in the back be necessary ?
This shelf will hold a couple dutch ovens and a kitchen aid, small pots
Our bathroom has a Broan DX90 exhaust fan which I replaced in 2021 with an OEM because it was super noisy. Recently it has started to make this high pitched / whistling noise which is penetrating my brain every time it's on. I took it out of the housing, removed the blower wheel, cleaned it all, blew some compressed air throughout to make it looks like new, but it still is making the same noise.
Is there anything else I can try before I shell out another $120 on another replacement fan? Are there similar exhaust fans out there which will be quieter? I don't necessarily need one this large so I would be fine trying a smaller fan if it fits the same 8x8.25 housing. The ducting running outside is 3" and I don't have an option to put a larger model in there, so I'm really limited in my product selection.
See video here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WjZ_j53p2qM
Putting in floor heating in bathroom. Got Schuyler Ditra Smart thermostat.
When considering placement of thermostat the controller is pretty static - meaning you kinda set it and forget it. Maybe turn it up in winter and down in summer. And it’s all on a timer. So why do I need it out near main switches?!?
Could I put it inside vanity backing like the plumbing is. My wall switch is over top of vanity. So run the wiring needed for floor heater control straight down from light switch into cavity behind vanity and put in floor switch back there. It’s exposed through back of vanity.
Am I genius Or insane?!?
I’m going to attempt to borrow/hire a mini digger and fix 1.2 miles of dirt track myself that’s littered with potholes because the local council doesn’t maintain my road, and it’s been down to us and my wife’s family to fix it since they’ve owned the property.
So far in my research I’ve found that MOT type 2 or crushed limestone aggregate of similar size (0-28mm) works best. In the past the road has been repaired with crushed gravel (10-20mm), and potholes keep recurring as this has no smaller material to bind the aggregate together in the pothole, and the overall drainage is regarded to be poor. There isn’t much crown to the road, and there are twists and turns, and water flows near the road but not directly across it. There are two areas where water comes close and it’s particularly bad, which is what I’m looking to improve.
I watched a few YouTube videos on fixing your own potholes (American based, using a “ditch witch”), and I’ve got the basic idea down. Completely scrape out and around the edges of the potholes, fill with aggregate and the material you removed, leave it slightly raised and drive over it to compact it, paying attention to the crown of the road.
The local repair company want £9k to re “pave” the road with gravel (10-20mm crushed rock). I’m not looking to re-pave it.
What sources (books, websites etc) do you recommend me to dive into to learn about drainage and road maintenance, and how should I tackle this? How much material would one need to fix about 40 (+/-) potholes of 25-75mm depth and of varying radii, over 1.2 miles? I could do the maths but I’m lazy.
Hi all,
We have a sloping roof that comes down to the bedrooms, and in my daughters room there are 2 eves cupboards at either side of the room.
The cupboards are freezing and as a result her room can be too. The outside walls of the cupboards are cold to touch and so are the doors. Recently I put some insulation tape around the doors to try and help, but I need to work out what else I can do. There's some carpet in there, but it looks pretty thin, so I think replacing that with some decent underly, and putting a threshold where it joins the flooring is probably a good start - but what else ?
There's some DIY cable routing that the previous owners appears to have done, so I think filling the hole where it goes into the loft is probably a good starting point as well.
Any suggestions gratefully accepted
(There were pictures, but I don't know where they've gone)