Hello all!

As the title reads, I am part of a raunchy shirt exchange for Christmas. The elf I was assigned is currently pregnant so I would like help coming up with raunchy lines that I can print on a shirt! The raunchier the better lol TIA

Upper level unit, 3 story building. Heat worked fine in the past. This year, it seems to be sporadic. With the Honeywell knob to the highest positions, the heat would not come on. No water moving, gurgling, pings, no sounds. After hours, maybe 10, it started gurgling, got warm, and was putting off heat in all rooms.

Now it has stopped again. Cold. The valve appears to work from what I can see, it moves when I turn the knob. I felt around underneath, the pipes are cold there as well. I tried wiggling the valve a bit, lifting up, side to side, nothing. I did search for answers, and found a lot about bleeding, and possible sediment buildup (we did have nearby construction recently that upped the amount of sediment in the tap water), but as this is an apartment building, I don't want to risk flooding something, and I do not have access to boiler room.

The landlord will send someone this weekend, but it's cold now (30sF), and if there is anything I can safely try myself, I would love to. Partly to know for next time, partly so I don't have to lay down tarps for the not so clean maintenance guy to lay on.

https://imgur.com/a/oxl3244

This door is in my living room and is the place where I loose the most heat. It needs replacing however this isn’t an option at the moment.

As it is single glazed it collects a lot of condensation and also looses lots of heat.

What can I do temporarily to insulate for winter?

Im removing drywall and the corner stud to fix a crack in my basement wall. Is there another way to remove the corner stud without removing the entire sheet of drywall around it? I removed about ¾ and was hoping to be able to remove it and replace it with out cutting more drywall and messing with the drop ceiling. I added a picture to see what I'm looking at

I'm building a soffit to go around some ductwork, and rough sketched 2 designs below. Which structure is better, and could they be improved? All wood is 2x4. In both cases the bottom will be a 2x4 flat along the width of the soffit.

Thanks.

I rent an apartment, and I want to install a simple hook to screw into the wall to hold very light loads (coats, no more than 5ish pounds). How can I do this? Is it possible to do with just a simple hand screw driver?

The exterior of my window is open to the elements. What should I install to cover it? Window sill nosing?

https://imgur.com/6NIwsHs

The house is from the 40s. This little area is the main hallway for the downstairs. Under linoleum and plywood are these slats. On the right they were just nailed to other wood, on the left they hit the joist. I need to replace some of these boards. Can I just use a sheet of obs or plywood? How important is the angled slat configuration?

I am working on mounting a little library in my front yard. My original plan was to dig / cement in a cedar post however, I discovered that our front beds are all concrete with soil over the top. I can't get deep enough to securely mount the post. I have explored other options, like mounting it to one of the many tree (tree's of heaven - thanks previous owner) that have grown.

Any ideas?

Library

Original Mounting location (concrete underneath) and many...tree's of heaven

Hey all

I recently built this wooden arch and would like to know what is the best way to modify it to make it easier to transport.

It is 7 feet tall and 7.5 feet wide. It is made using 2x4s and the one at the top is a 1x4.
I was thinking of sawing it down the middle and adding some kind of connector in between so I could load it into the back of a truck and then connect the 2 pieces together.

I just wanted to see if you had any recommendations on other ways to break it down and transport it without taking the screws out as well as what I could use to the connect the pieces together once at its destination

Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/3nhfzrpw8c2e1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8b6437aa2240dda17903d259840cc500c411c28

https://preview.redd.it/51u0crpw8c2e1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12f5097d446168f40436d060c8d763265a81c900

Have a Kenmore electric range model no. 790.94159310. It's a simple, cheap range.

One day the broiler element started sparking and so we turned it off. It's got a blowout in one spot.

I've been looking for a replacement and the official Kenmore/Frigidaire parts are way too expensive. They are priced at around $150, which is more than the stove is worth, I am sure.

There are parts on ebay and other places that seem to look like the same element, and claim to be a replacement for the part no. Same shape and everything. Are these okay to use?

Thanks all

As a novice DIYer with budget constraints, I need to waterproof and insulate my unfinished basement. I'm considering two methods:

Option A:

• Apply tar paper to walls
• Staple/nail double insulation over tar paper
• (Future option to add studs for renovation)

Option B:

• Apply waterproofing paint
• Install studs
• Add spray insulation

Option A seems simpler for a beginner. Has anyone DIY'd either method? Seeking advice on:

• Ease of installation
• Cost effectiveness
• Other considerations for a novice

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Besides calling my dad, how should I fix this? We’re repainting the bathroom soon and would like this whole corner to not look so ugly

How do I remove this piece? I've pinched it, twisted it, pushed it up, pulled it down, and I can't get that clamp to come off. I'm trying to replace the just the sprayer & hose unit, hopefully with an inexpensive generic part. Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

https://preview.redd.it/1dr4oayz5c2e1.jpg?width=2100&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b07c9b27baba4ecc65d464270cb7cf953330795c

My home was built in 1921 in the mid-Atlantic region. I am renovating the second floor and currently installing the insulation. The home is primarily 24" OC, so I purchased batts as such.

I have established the air gap and I'm placing the Batts now between the roof joists. But, many of the joists are actually about 21" spacing. Can I just stuff the full batt in there or should I be cutting them all to the proper width? (plus an inch or so to help with compression fitting)

I am concerned because I placed the first batt and it seems to be sagging a lot. Will this cause my drywall to sag?

Edit: photos here - https://imgur.com/a/3udHvtg

Hey guys. I'm looking at fishing ethernet cable through my walls myself instead of hiring an electrician. We already have coaxial cable running through the ceilings and we have ports for it, coincidentally, right by where we need ethernet ports. I was thinking of converting it to a double port, one ethernet and one coaxial. What tools do I need to run the cat6 cable through the ceiling? Is it easy enough to do since I know the space is open? preferably want to not have to cut and redo drywall.

I am redoing my bathroom right now and plan on putting up a wall divider between the bathtub/shower combo and the toilet. The wall is supposed to be floor-to-ceiling, non-load-bearing but needs to contain both the 2" drain as well as hot & cold water supply for the bathtub. Due to the size of the room, the wall can not be much more than 6" wide (otherwise the toilet would be snug) while still containing the drain.

Usually, I'd frame this out with 2x4s on the floor as usual. In this case, however, that wouldn't work since that would mean 2 x 3.5" on each side + space in the middle for a drain (let's say 3" for now), coming out to a total of 10", which is more space than I have to work with. I'm now considering putting the bottom 2x4s on flat (I believe that's what it's called?), e.g. put them "upright" so the 1.5" side would touch the ground and building out a footer with "proper" 2x4s (e.g. 3.5" side touching the ground) as blocks in between the ones on flat. I feel that should be sturdy enough, but I wonder if others have experience with this. I attached a drawing that shows this better.

Also, any advice on how best to attach this to the floor & ceiling joists?

https://preview.redd.it/lcdvsmmsob2e1.png?width=2246&format=png&auto=webp&s=df2ab9cfee68a2bf32b6ad269da432dfa1384e9f

I have an old REI rain canopy that my partner really likes. I ignored it during a rain storm, it filled with water (more pond than canopy) and collapsed. I'd like to repair the joint piece.

OD: 1.052in, ID: 0.8260in, depth 2.3710

I'm unsure if 3D printing will be strong enough? I could over-print/build it. Good idea? bad idea?

thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/3ma6cosywa2e1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2c3fd50975b927cc921b7a359bc59437b1c24a92

https://preview.redd.it/6pkh3osywa2e1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b52b79832a169fd67664988182bcef8bc33a1a1b

https://preview.redd.it/0vw2hpsywa2e1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b5b5980b7372ab70de076976db3d01dfb0cd536

https://preview.redd.it/zazttosywa2e1.jpg?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=994e91c06ad10961c1efdb673f39383508022c41

I just bought a house in New England, and if you're from there you'll know what I'm talking about with the big giant ugly driveways/parking areas that take up basically half the yard. I want to demolish it. It's ok if it takes a long time(if I have to work at it bit by bit), but I'm wondering if this is something someone can diy or whether I need to call a professional. I'm looking to get rid of it and then add a new, more normal size driveway but I will probably hire someone to put in the new one.

We just had some work done on our house, and the contractor (who also installs gutters) told us that a corner fitting of the gutter will continue to leak and that the gutters should be replaced. The gutters are at least25 years old, but they don’t leak anywhere else, as far as we can tell. The leak is from the center join of the corner, not a large visible gap, but you can see from water marks that is where the leak is. The contractor said he applied caulking inside the gutter to seal it at that spot, but said that was only a temporary fix. Would it be possible to use Flex Seal or a similar product to seal the leak for a longer period of time?

Venting an exhaust hood out of my standing seam roof in Vermont and am concerned about the profile of the roof vents. I'm picturing anything rather blocky and that sticks out will just get slammed by any snow/ice sliding off the roof. Does anyone have any experience with a good 6" low profile vent that is preferably not $300+?? This is kind of what I'm looking for but there is no need for this to be that expensive