I've had the same wifi card for about seven years now, and in the past year it's kept dropping and disconnecting maybe once or twice a day. However, in the past few months this has increased to over ten times a day. I've ran Windows Troubleshooter and every single time it brings up "Network cable may not be plugged in" (I don't use Ethernet, and is only marked as detected) as well as a "problem with wireless adapter or access point."

I've done every fix that I could find, a whole network reset (including the command prompt stuff), turning off the power saver, going to an old driver, updating the driver, but still every time I have wifi for about ten minutes before I have to run the troubleshooter again. Do I have to purchase a new wifi card? Is there some other issue?

One other thing that I will mention is that it was fine connecting to 5 GHZ up until I would be connected but only have 0.04 kbps on download and upload, and I've since then switched to a 2.4 only internet connection that didn't have this problem. (This happened I would say five months ago)

The main reason why I think the issue is with the wifi card is due to the fact that my phone never drops in the room I am in and is consistently two or even three times faster then my wifi card.

If anyone has any other suggestions on what I could do, or is the only fix at this point just buying a new one for my desktop.

I have set up a home server with Yunohost and Nextcloud. It is working as intented, file syncing works etc.

But if I'm tranferring files from devices on local network, they go throught the internet, which ofc limits the speeds to my internet speed.

I have been trying to research what should I do to use local network for file transwer, when possible, but I havent really been able to figure out how? Is it even possible with Nextcloud?

I’m on Ontario and the fastest internet in my area is Cogeco where I have a Sagecomm Fast3896. The modem/router essentially locks a lot of features like separating the bands, white listings address and specifying dedicated IPs.

The package is Ultrafibre 1Gig with unlimited data. Download 1000 Mbps Upload 100 Mbps

Actual speeds are 731/923 according to the Cogeco app.

I have some Ethernet running around the house already so I hard wire my main computer and I have a N100 hardwired as well running home assistant. Everything else is wifi.

Having issues losing connection to Sonos speakers when the bands change.

Once I upgrade the tv I plan on having that hard wired as well as a PS5 but right now most devices are on wifi.

It’s not really having problems with speed. And the house is 3 floors 3000 sqft.

Looking to put the Cogeco router into bridge mode and find a suitable router that will be ideal for my home and that I can use in the future to have POE cameras for security and cam doorbells etc.

A bit overwhelmed looking at all these router options and hoping some people can give perspective on a good pick that will allow me to have access to some of features my ISP is locking me out of and allow me to add in POE and cameras down the line.

I do plan on having most things hardwired eventually as the basement is unfinished and I can run cables where needed and zigbee for Ha stuff so not planning on running mainly wifi.

Thanks for any recommendations.

I'm in way over my head here! Can someone please ELI5 what I need to do to make this work? (getting static IP is not working as I keep getting tossed from person to person at start up fiber optic).

Network #1 - Home Network (Amplifi Alien Router runs the house, smart TV's, phones, etc) Spectrum Located in back of house

Network #2 - Work/Content Creator Network (TP-Link AX3000) Fiber Optic with cgnat hard wired to 4 pc's and 5th wifi. Located in office

Only one pc is connected to both networks if that matters.

Plex Media Server PC is hard wired to Network #2.

The routers are too far apart to physically connect.

WTF do I need to do to open the magic portal? All I need is Plex to have the incoming connection I guess?

I tried reading some of the help articles but there were so many 3 letter words that weren't words and I got overwhelmed...so I came to the place where the experts always help me!! Pretty Please!!

Since November 1st ISP's in Belgium are obliged to allow i to purchase our own modems. I currently still have the ISP modem (with COAX) that is hooked up in front of my own 3 router network. I'm looking for a good replacement modem that I can use to let my internet come in through COAX. Right now I have double NAT due to my ISP's modem being locked to oblivion. I can't change any settings, I have 2 DHCP servers due to it and 1 pointless local subnet. Anyone have a good suggestion for a simple, yet reliable modem? Preferably a bit customizable?

(Mbps)This is just for fun, and for anyone in my position who was curious enough to look into some CAT 8 ethernet cable for their home network. I wanted to add my data into the already available online resources.

1. My Network

Speed: 2Gbps fiber optic

Router: Nighthawk 7 RS500

PC Network Adapter: TP-Link 2.5GB PCIe Netowrk Card (TX201)

2. The Cables

CAT 6 - unknown, no-name brand, 6' length.

CAT 8 - Monoprice 3' cable

3.Results

---------------------------------------------
CAT 6 average download: 2146.37 Mbps

CAT 6 average upload: 2152.05 Mbps

----------------------------------------------

CAT 8 average download: 2146.64 Mbps

CAT 8 average upload: 2151.78 Mbps

----------------------------------------------

4. Conclusion

To be expected. CAT 7 and CAT 8 at 2.5 Gbps is unnecessary, I was curious if there would be a difference in speeds, and there was not. One thing people say online about CAT 8 is that it is noticeably thicker than prior categories. This is true, but not in my opinion definitely not a reason to avoid CAT 8 if you want it. It is pliable enough to be easily used in a basic home office setting. It is not rigid like COAX.

I plan to re-test using my testing conditions in the future to add to my data set, and I will update this if I find anything. As an aside not important to this test, the cable manufacturer is important. I have always used cat 5 and 6 cheap/random cables but I would say the quality of the Monoprice cable (at $12 for a 3 footer) is impressive. The reason it is important is for its terminates - without getting into the weeds here, you can get radio frequency interruptions if your twists in your line are not shielded well at your terminates.

Please chime in with thoughts or questions. I am nowhere near an expert :)

Would love some advice on how i can best eliminate the fios router and extender im currently paying for

Situation

live in a 2 story townhouse built in 2018 with a finished basement. office on second floor where my Fios router is (this model: https://www.verizon.com/content/dam/verizon/support/consumer/documents/internet/fios-router-quick-start-guide.pdf ). in basement/game room, i have a fios extender ( https://www.verizon.com/home/accessories/fios-extender/ ) that connected to the ethernet and coax outlet i have by my entertainment system -- tv and PS5 are connected via ethernet into extender. also putting a gaming PC into a different room in my basement. cannot connect into a router via ethernet without some additional wiring but not too concerned about it. rarely play multiplayer games and am currently getting 500 mbps down/200 up over wifi. faster would be great but not a huge deal. motherboard does support Wifi 6e though so upgrading to 6/6e would be nice

Question

is there a relatively easy way to replace the router and extender and keep everything else status quo: meaning no additional wiring for now and my TV and PS5 can remain wired vs wifi. eventually switching the PC to ethernet would be great and that room is where the ONT is located but it's not a priority -- would rather just focus on getting rid of fios router/extender and upgrading to 6/6e

Fiance and I just got a new home and we close on the 16th. I game more often than not, and if not gaming we are either on Netflix/streaming shows or movies. I was looking for a router that can handle online matches.. I could’ve probably went to Best Buy with this question but maybe someone else out there can give a recommendation that isn’t looking for profit haha

Hi all, I recently got the MG7550 to avoid renting from Xfinity. I know this is a weak modem/router, but I am only one person in a tiny apartment so I'm optimistic.

Anyway, I am curious if I need to do anything special regarding security when I set this bad boy up. I am a pretty conscious and safe web user and password haver, but I certainly wander off onto some naughty websites here and there (to report them). I've never had issues with this in the past, but I've always used Xfinity's router, and I would assume that has some type of security on it. I've assumed in the past, and I know what it can do.

Thanks yall, and if you know of any other websites I should check out (to report), DM me.

I've already confirmed the cable is not the issue as on another device I was pushing 800+ MBs with that same cable. Could reinstalling a new driver help out with this? I have the ethernet cable going through an adapter but was having no issues receiving those speeds before.

My motherboard says it is gigabit ethernet (asrock b450 pro4) but my device manager says it is a realtek pcie gbe family controller which is capped at 100mbps.

I built a PC 2 years ago and I've gotten consistent intermittent connection issues. Sometimes it's okay, most of the time you can't load your email inbox. Every time I run a speed test online, it comes back totally fine and shows fast up/down speeds.

What I've tried:

Replaced my motherboard on warrantee. Again, worked for a little while, then issues came back.

Switched ISP's Went from Optimum to Frontier Fiber. It worked for a couple weeks, then went back to having the same issues.

Disabled TCP-IPv6 Checksum Offloading Worked great for about 2 days, then the same problems returned.

My only last thought is that maybe I just bought a shitty MOBO, and I should upgrade to a more reliable brand? I have an ASRock MOBO. Other than that I'm totally out of ideas.

I'm trying to de-wifi my indoor space and was wondering if there's a good reason not to install above in dry but unheated shed which should provide the spill of signal I'm comfortable with exposures... Otherwise I will have a couple wired connections near large screen / GreatRoom.

Thoughts? Futile or interesting?

Hello! Wondering if anybody can help me figure out a little problem I have created for myself:

I have a Telus fiber optic modem (🍁) that is in bridge mode, and I use an Asus ZenWiFi as my network router and for a WiFi mesh.

Up until now, all of my PCs have been connected to the internet via the ZenWifi router, which is connected to the Internet via the Telus fiber optic modem bridge output.

My digital TV boxes are connected to the fiber optic modem via MoCA adapters (i.e. hijacking the coax cable to send network traffic) throughout my home.

Recently, I added a new PC to another room. To get Internet access, I had the clever idea to add a switch to the ethernet coming out of the MoCA adapter that connected my cable TV box in that room to the fiber optic modem.

This mostly works great - I have internet access, but my new PC can't seem to see/find any other PCs on my network, and my other PCs can't see/find it either.

I suspect it's something to do with the MoCA connection and my Asus ZenWiFi being on opposite sides of the Telus fiber optic modem.

What's really strange is that some software does seem to be able to find others devices on the network. E.g. Steam link can stream games from my other PCs, and Plex can find the Plex server hosted on my NAS. I can't access my NAS directly via it's IP, so perhaps this is a red herring, and Steam link and Plex are using some internet magic to find each other.

Any idea how I can make the new PC on the MoCA side accessible to the devices attached to the bridge output of my fiber optic modem?

Hi,

I've made quick floorplan, my inital plan is to put it above the door in the hallway. The walls are concrete, about 10-12cm (4"-4,7") hence my concern with the placement and if one is enough. I was thinking of placing a Ubiquiti U6 there.

Any input or suggestion is welcome, since I'm just starting with rennovations on Monday, anything's doable. There will be Ethernet jacks in every room so if you have creative ideas, shoot away!

https://preview.redd.it/91ehlhan294e1.jpg?width=4159&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=01d13b79a6f01672eee0aecadffadab4d31f40be

So I have a house that is about 7 years old, in the basement there is a coax outlet but at the time we moved in that room wasn’t really being used, so maybe Comcast didn’t make that a live outlet?

Nowadays my son lives down there and is a big fan of his PS5 so trying to get him a wired connection using MoCA…..is it as simple as calling Comcast and having them turn that coax outlet on? Or do they need to come out with a tech?

I have dual Asus AC68P, one at the incoming cable point to route and one as an AP. I think they need to go before the end of the year.

Would love to know what other people did when they replaced their AC68U/P, and why they went that way.

My network:

I have a mixed ethernet/wifi network topology with four cable runs and some dumb switches at the end points. One of the AC68P is an access point; it's the only access point I have.

My devices:

1. Pixel phones, ipad tablets, a Kindle or two (wireless)
2. A Chromebook, wireless
3. Windows and Mac laptops, wired and wireless
4. Roku (wired and wireless)
5. Windows servers (wired) including Plex and one or two with simple file shares
6. Two network printers
7. A Nintendo switch
8. Several cheap Chinese cameras (wireless)
9. A thermostat (wireless)

Needs:

1. Separate the least secure stuff
2. Provide a separate place for guests who use our internet
3. Possibly further restrict kids' devices.
4. Would like to block ads, but probably would do that better with on device things or with third party DNS (negotiable)
5. Television must always work with Plex and Roku; if there's any chance my ad blocking is going to mess that up, it's a no go

Constraints:

1. I did not want to have a server or docker container that runs any kind of network services because I don't want to learn to maintain that
2. Prefer everything be a part of network hardware I buy
3. Prefer not to have subscription-based things that don't let me edit the settings I can edit now (Merlin)

I have no special bandwidth needs or QOS; I'm on a business connection with a fairly slow uplink and maybe 600 down.

I will probably add a NAS this year. Possibly Synology.

I've looked at various Asus replacements, but they're confusing. I thought about going the Ubiquiti route, but it's confusing.

To start off, I know next to nothing about any of this. We are selecting options on a new build and confused about the number of dual ports we need in our house.

Their standard is to have one dual port in the living room. We would like to have a wired connection in an office downstairs, a loft upstairs, and possibly for our smart tv on the other side of the living room.

Would adding dual ports in these other locations help us? Or do we just need Ethernet cables run from the living room to these locations pre-drywall? Something else?

I am in Canada and have recently got 1 Gig fiber installed from Telus. They installed the following two boxes in the basment

This is the fiber box

This is the second box

The purple ethernet on the second is fed from the first. The coax in the port marked MoCA goes to a coax that is run up to where I have 2 PCs. The coax comes to a B21A that I have both PCs connected to with ethernet cables. Each room in my house has it's own dedicated coax cable coming from the basement near where the Telus boxes are.

If I wanted to get a wired connection to another room to get a wired connection to a PS5. Could I hook a MoCA adapter into the second Telus box, then into the coax cable that goes to the room I want, then hook a second MoCA adapter to the coax at the wall and plug it into the PS5?

So I would need 2 MoCA adapters? I was searching amazon and came across.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08XP8MMFG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2ULKEZ56DP1E0&psc=1

Would buying two of these accomplish this? Or am I way off and need to do something else?

Thank you in advance of any advice on this.

I have AT&T home fiber 1gbps which comes with a modem/router/wifi box and has one 5Gb LAN output and 3 (what I assume are) 1Gb LAN outputs. If there is a way to stop the AT&T box from broadcasting its own wi-fi network I haven’t figured out how to do that.

I also have 2 Asus ZenWiFi XT9 mesh APs. Each router has one 2.5Gb WAN inputs and 3 (what I assume are 1Gb) LAN outputs. I have several outdoor wi-fi cameras around the house and adding these nodes has helped them maintain connection.

The complicated part of all of this is I have a high speed 10Gb NAS that is set up in RAID 0 so it does use up a lot of that 10G. I need to maintain that 10 Gb connection between the NAS and my computer while also having the fastest possible connection between the NAS and the outbound internet.

The AT&T modem is in the basement and right now I have the 5Gb LAN output from the AT&T modem going upstairs to the family room where I have it connected to a one of the ASUS XT9s. From the XT9 I have one LAN output going to a 10Gb unmanaged switch. Connected to the switch is the NAS, my computer, and some other components. My thought is that really the 5 Gb LAN from the router SHOULD be going to the switch first and THEN to the XT9 to maintain a faster 5 Gb LAN from the NAS to the internet, however, when I try that everything seems to get messed up.

The other Asus XT9s is directly connected to the modem in the basement via one of the 1Gb ports on the back of the modem.

I have the XT9s in Access Point mode at the moment. My understanding is that will expand the network created and managed by the AT&T modem/router/wi-fi without double routing traffic but my understanding isn’t all that clear. The thought is that any device could connect via wi-fi to either XT9 or the original AT&T router and all be one the same network. Is that the case? Should the WiFi network name and password of the AT&T wireless network and the Asus network be the same so that devices can use any of the 3 points?

Or should I have the Asus network be the main “router” and if so, what settings do I need to change on the router? There’s something called “IP passthrough” but not totally sure if that is the same thing as like “bridge mode?” Model name of router is BGW320-500

Is this the best most efficient way to do this? I am tech savvy enough to be dangerous but this networking stuff is at the edge of my comfort zone so please don’t assume I know anything.

Thank you!

I’ve got a guest house about 100 yards from my house I need to get a better connection to. As of now, I have a Netgear Nighthawk router in my house and a Netgear EX7000 Extender in my guest house. I have a great connection in my office but in the guest house I get a max of 25mbps download speeds and that’s having to use the 2g connection. The 5g barely gets over 10mbps downloading speeds. I’m unsure whether I need a better router or what. Any help would be appreciated!

Is there a way on this to set up more than one trigger - like camera movement and time of day. Or is there a better app to use?

Hi, just bough an appartement in France and under the electrical pannel I see this box, does anyone know what this is ? I have RJ45 outlet on few rooms and I guess this is related..

Other info I have internet with fiber optics but it doesn't looks linked to this box.

Any idea ?

I have a pair of EAP235 access points I want to use. One at the front of my house and the other at the back. Can I use the same ssid on both or will it interfere with each other or Should I just give each one separate ssids?

Hey all! I have an open 4 post rack and it is housed in my basement. I know I could replace the rack with an enclosed one, but my question is short of doing that. Any ideas on how to keep dust and cobwebs away/out of the space? Do they make any products? I worry as it homes a 4ru server currently and will home another possibly in the near future.

i'm currently looking a standalone router like the archer be550
or a single mesh unit like the deco be65

i know i can use either as my main router for internet/wifi and im currently leaning towards the single mesh unit as it's cheaper where i'm from.

are there any real downsides to this? what will i be missing out on?

So I was playing CoD 4 Remastered when all of a sudden the game froze, and at the same time my connection to the router have died. All of my devices like phones and TVs connect to the router via wi fi without a problem and can access internet, my pc can connect to the phone hot spot too and load up, it only randomly does not connect to my main router either via wi-fi or ethernet. Is there something the game could have brute forced on the router to "black list" my pc from it?