Hello,

I have 2 light switches for kitchen overhead lights.
They are on a 3 way (giggity), apparently the "extension" switch was added at some point in the past, and does not have a neutral.

I have used the Embrighten switches, have been happy.

To swap the "main" switch out with an Embrighten Zwave, could I use a Shelly in the other switch box (have not used them before)?
or is it possibly just best to wire nut off/disconnect that switch and put a cover plate on it?

Thank you

Hi All -

I'm new to home automation and currently have a Lutron Caseta Smarthub and a Lutron Caseta Smart Diva Dimmer (no neutral). Unfortunately, the dimmer causes my lights to blink or not turn on at all.

I'm looking for a plain white rocker (on/off) smart switch (or something on/off without dimmer). Lutron's no-neutral options are limited, so can I solve this more easily with Zwave switches? I plan to get the Aeotec Smart Home Hub anyway.

Thanks in advance for any help or guidance.

Hi guys,

I'm looking for high-quality sensors, such as motion sensors, door sensors, temperature/humidity sensors, etc.

I've seen some products on https://products.z-wavealliance.org/regions/1/categories for the European region and none of them seem to be of high quality. I bought an aetoec trisensor 8 but I didn't like the quality (As I live in Europe it is not possible to buy some of Zooz's products).

Can you guys help me choosing a good motion sensor and door sensor?

Thanks

Yubii integration with APEX Lighting keypads for zwave-related solutions via Fibaro home center

https://reddit.com/link/1gd7y6e/video/5mejkbz6z9xd1/player

Hi :slight_smile:

Has anyone seen a big difference between zwave 500 and zwave 700/800?

Does it really consume less energy?

Lang range isn't that important for me, as my network is quite large.

What big changes have you noticed?

Does the module handle the 700/800 protocol well? Or are there still bugs?

https://www.silabs.com/wireless/z-wave/introduction-to-z-wave-800-series

https://www.silabs.com/wireless/z-wave/800-series-modules#

https://community.silabs.com/s/share/a5U8Y000000bwgaUAA/zwave-500-vs-700-vs-800-why-use-the-new-800-series-for-smart-home-devices?language=en_US

For this device i will just change the battery after 10 years ??

currently i am to change it every years

https://control-your-home.de/Remotec-Thermostat-Z-Wave-800er-Serie/REMEZTRVV01

Thank you!

Search pulled up one post on this from a year ago with no real answer: I have two sliding glass doors that I'd like to install automated blinds for. I was assuming there'd be a zwave option for vertical blinds (at least to spin them open, maybe not slide to the side), but I can't find any.

Have any of you folks found good privacy or sun blocking options for your sliding glass doors that have zwave? I'm not set on them being the vertical slats/blinds-- but I do want something that seems made for a door. Doing cellular shades, or window blinds, etc. doesn't feel right.

Thanks!

I had a GE ZW4005 wall switch go bad the other day, wouldn't turn on even locally. Probably a cap. In my box I found an old ZW4001, so I put that in today.

I noticed this one mentioned going in as a slave, so I thought this may be intended to be used with another model as master in a 3/4/5 way scenario.

I wasn't able to find and differences, but with the 4001 I now can't turn the light off. Locally if I try, the light goes out and immediately comes back on. Any thoughts on this behavior?

Thanks!

I recently incorporated z wave products into my smart home, and have only purchased 800LR devices.

I’ve been searching for high quality smart plug dimmers and reference the z wave alliance portal to find the latest products. Most of the products in this category are sold commercially only. Why?

Some of the products I’ve tried to buy but am not eligible to are the Versa ZW2 and Jasco Pro Series ZWN3109.

If not for Zooz I would basically be pushed out of the market for quality 800LR z wave products.

As my setup is fairly new, most of my devices, as well as my gateway, are Z-Wave 800. I do have a few devices with a 700 series chip, but they were cheap and are easily exchangeable.

Everything seems reliable and stable, except maybe that I do have a slight delay of perhaps 700ms before triggering a Z-Wave switch is registered in HomeAssistant. The other way around, triggering a Z-Wave actor with HA, feels instant in comparison. Also, I tried a direct association once, and not only did it not trigger instantly, it even had a delay of up to a few seconds sometimes.

From what I've read, the whole mesh operates on the level of the device with the lowest Z-Wave version. Which is why I'm hesitant to buy older devices, even more 700 series.

Are there are any advantages, theoretical or practical, of having a Z-Wave 800-only mesh?

Edit: Further testing shows that the delay is not nearly as bad as it seemed, and probably had other causes. It is still possible that some delay sometimes occurs, but it's rare and no reason at all to unsettle readers. Still, it was pretty substantial and irregular when testing direct associations between a series 800 and a series 700 switch, but that was a few weeks ago. Maybe I'll do some more "real" testing at another time.

I have a Hubitat hub with a Zooz Scene Controller controlling 8 Zooz dry relays and the lights take ages to come on. Well, about 1 second, but that feels like too long.
Is this normal?

Hi all,

I've seen a lot of posts about this but as I live in EU I can not see any dongle suitable and reliable for my raspberry pi 5.

I know Zooz is the best in the market but I can not find EU version available. The same happens with Homeseer. Besides that, Aeotec 7 is not recommended due to RF performance issues (https://www.home-assistant.io/docs/z-wave/controllers/).

Anyone has any suggestion?

Thanks

I connected the add-on "Z-Wave JS UI"(earlier "Z-Wave2MQTT") through the "Z-Wave JS" Integration to Home Assistant. Then I included my device in the add-on in SmartStart but it doesn't appear in Home Assistant or even in the Control Panel of the add-on. Does anyone know how can I include it?

TL;DR: What no neutral dimmer is best now?

When I bought my house, I moved all the switches to Lutron Maestro dimmers. Love the feature set. (LED status, double tap to fully turn on, remember last dim level). However, this is the first generation product, so it does not support LED's.

As we've switched to zwave dimmers, I've never really liked any of the replacements because we have had over 20 years of using the Maestro's.

I have more than half the dimmers in my house switched over to z wave dimmers. 5 of them are GE/Jasco (12724's) ones that I pur it 6 years ago during a renovation. 1 Aeotec illumino (Bought in 2021) (Which looks like a zooz knockoff, or vice versa), and 1 Enbrighten switch (Bought in 2022, Area with no neutral). All that is left is 4 rooms on the old Lutrons.

I have a room with one of the old Maestros that needs to replaced, (The light fixture needs to be replaced, which means the new LED light will not turn off). I know I can do a load resistor, but I'd rather upgrade to smart switch.

This location has no neutral.

The contenders:

This will be integrated into my smart things platform.

I'm not impressed with Lutron's z-wave offering. (I HATE the concept of a hub for light switches).

The Enbrighten has been the best for me so far. It doesn't have the double tap, and the status led's, but it just works. (Yes, I know it's the same thing as the GE/Jasco ons), but I'm having trouble finding the non-neutral wire required one.

The Aeotec requires a neutral.

So I got nothing right now.

Googling around, I see

• Inovelli Reds (Which are out of stock since at least May) (Inovelli reached out and said they are in stock)(and the No Neutral part seems to required a third party product)
• HomeSeer HS-WX300-R2 (Seems perfect)

Anyone used those two? Specifically the HomeSeer one?

So, I had a few of my GE Z-wave light switches die a few days ago so I ordered new ones to replace them on amazon. Specifically, these. While they're working fine, there now exists about a half-second delay from hitting the switch before the lights turn on that wasn't there before. Weirdly, if I flip the switch via my home assistant app, it's basically real-time with no delay. Any idea what's going on here?

Has anyone ever found a Zwave L5 locking outlet? Hoping to schedule the pool pump via home automation but the outlet type may make it tough.

I could possibly swap it out for a normal plug too, I don’t think the L5 is required by code.

So I have quite a few Leviton Z-wave outlets around my house, creating a good network. I recently added one more outlet inside my concrete cellar using Smart Start (for the first time). The device shows in the provisioning entries, but does not join the network. Is this not automatic or is there something I must do to make it join? Or is the outlet just not getting a strong enough signal from the other nodes to join?

Note: Using ZWave JS UI on Home Assistant.

I have a home automation system with all Z-wave devices. But I can’t find a smart hose valve! Why the heck is that? They all seem to be Zigbee or a proprietary protocol with a separate WiFi bridge. There’s even a matter-over-thread option! But no z-wave? Anyone know what’s up with that?

This question is about a Z-wave wink contact sensor with a SmartThings v3 hub. Now first off, I’ve already ordered a different sensor, but I’m trying to understand why this sensor dropped offline all the time.

It’s in the basement. I have many other zwave & zigbee sensors in the basement & 1 may drop off in a rare occasion - but that’s it. For this Wink sensor, as soon as I replaced the battery or removed it & stuck it back - it came right back online. It lasted for a few hours & then permanently off line until I did the battery thing.

This is more about trying to learn & understand what possibly could be going on here for future reference opposed to making this particular sensor work. Things I did:

1. Reboot hub.
2. Replace battery with new (old was 77%)
3. “Rebuild” zwave network. Whatever that does(I think nothing)
4. Delete the sensor in zwave exclusion & add it back again.
5. Get a zwave smart plug that acts as a zwave repeater about 15’ from the sensor.
6. Tried another driver. One was “switch” & one “sensor”

Does a zwave actually mesh an an “extender” do anything? For this is did nothing. I dunno if that is marketing or can actually make a difference. I have 3 other Wink contact sensors that rarely go offline & if they do; they get back on shortly in their own. They are in the same floor as the hub.

Anyone have any clue what could be going on here?

Is it possible to reuse door sensors and motion sensors with a non ring hub . They use zwave I believe

I've had increasing reliability issues with several of these 4-in-1 sensors. They often get stuck and don't register any motion or other changes for hours at a time. My 20 other z-wave devices seem plenty reliable.

Looking to try an alternative Z-wave 800 PIR sensor. Also interested if anyone has tips on how to debug what's going on.

I'm using Home Assistant with Z-wave JS UI.

Hi. Just moved into a smarthouse that mainly uses z-wave compatible devices, but at the moment everything is controlled my a Fibaro Home Center 3 hub.

The Fibaro Home Center 3 is controlled by the Yubii app which I really don't feel comfortable with, and I want something much simpler.

Does anyone have a better app you could recommend? If Samsung Smart Things works, I'd love to use that.

Right now, my house is out-smarting me...

Hi there all,

I just picked up 11 battery-powered water leak sensors (Zooz 800 Series Z-Wave Long Range XS Water Leak Sensor ZSE42 800LR) that I plan to place around my 2200 sf condo. I know it sounds weird to have that many leak sensors, but trust me, it makes sense. Would I be better off pairing them as Long-Range devices or mesh devices to my Hubitat C8 Pro hub? I have a pretty good mesh network right now made up of wall switches / dimmers and plugin dimmers. Thank you!

I have a bunch of Z-Wave switches in my house, all made by GE or Jasco and they are consistently starting to all behave wonky. I go to look up the instructions to reset these devices and nothing seems to work. I have a Vera Smart Home hub that has always worked for me.
Specifically this product: Enbrighten ZWA4011DVENB AZ02. Manf date says 2310.

I am trying to get this to pair with my Vera hub but there is no indicator light on the switch that indicates whether its in Pairing mode or anything. There's an LED but it does not do anything during Pairing/Unpairing/Reset. I am trying to use the above device to replace the below device:

GE ZW3005

How do I debug this? How do I know whether the problem is with the hub or the switch? Why is everything failing at the same time and is this common?

Help me, Obi-Wan.

I wonder what to do. I have a Fibaro Home Center 3 Lite with a few sensors. I need to buy a few more leak sensors, movement sensor and 10+ wall plugs with energy measurement. The problem is that they are expensive, at least $50, and I think they still based on the old standard

• I don't know if devices from other companies would work with Fibaro? There are no such devices on their compatibility page

• I wonder whether to buy another hub like Hubitat or Homey Pro, they support zigbee accessories that are several times cheaper

What I would like:

• a hub with a nice UI that shows the power consumption in various dimensions

• a mobile application that will display an alarm if sth happen

Running into a bit of a potential snag in building out my zwave network.

So far, I've been piecing together the network with a combination of 700 and 800 series devices. A few years back, during some remodeling, I had started planning for various home automation projects, including the zwave setup. Unfortunately I was not nearly as up to date on the various different protocols and the associated implications/limitations of each (as well as mixing/matching within the same mesh), and picked up a handful of highly rated zwave enabled light switches and dimmers.

I am just now finding out the potential hurdle, as I am finally getting around to including these in my setup, and finding out they are series 500. I'm on the fence on whether to include them into the mesh, since from everything I'm seeing, they will be the 'lowest common denominator' and throttling down everything else on the network.

For those who have built out mixed meshes before, what has been the experience with a situation such as this? Would you add these to your mesh, given the choice? Replace them with 700/800 series instead?

Alternatively, would it be possible to add these devices to the mesh without them acting as repeaters? Would it even make a difference?