I’ve rounded up 10 of the best cookware sets that are currently on sale.
Top Cookware Sets with Black Friday Deals

1. T-fal Ultimate Hard Anodized 12-Piece Set – ~$101.99 with 15 percent savings
   • Non-stick, dishwasher safe, and durable. Great for everyday cooking.
2. Calphalon Classic Pots and Pans Set (10-Piece) – ~$358.99 with 51 percent savings
   • Stainless steel with impact-bonded bases. Perfect for even heat distribution.
3. Cuisinart Multiclad Pro 17-Piece Set – ~$143.99 with 42 percent savings
   • Triple-ply stainless steel with polished finishes. Ideal for chefs and home cooks alike.
4. GreenLife Ceramic Nonstick Cookware Set (16-Piece) – $89.99 with 25 percent savings
   • Non-toxic, eco-friendly, and comes in a variety of fun colors.
5. All-Clad HA1 Hard Anodized 13-Piece Set – $479.95 with 20 percent savings
   • Superior durability with scratch-resistant nonstick interiors.
6. Rachael Ray Cucina Nonstick Cookware Set (12-piece) – $127.50 with 29 percent savings
   • Stylish, durable, and perfect for versatile cooking needs.
7. Le Creuset Toughened Nonstick PRO Set (10-Piece) – $639.95 (originally $749)
   • Premium nonstick cookware that’s oven-safe and long-lasting.
8. Circulon Premier Professional 12-Piece Cookware Set – $229.99 with 18 percent savings
   • Hard-anodized construction with a lifetime warranty.
9. Farberware Millennium Stainless Steel 10-Piece Set – $103.99 with 48 percent savings
   • Shiny, durable, and works well with induction stovetops.
10. Lodge Cast Iron Combo Cooker (5-Piece) – $30.23 with 20 percent savings

• A classic cast-iron option for those who love hearty cooking.

All these cookware sets are part of Black Friday sales, with huge discounts that make them a steal for their quality. They’re perfect for gifting or upgrading your own kitchen.

So for reasons that aren't important, I'm trying to bond two pieces of vinyl flooring together. Not the edges, the face sides. I'm aware I'll need to sand them to rough up the surface. What I want to know specifically is what adhesive to use?

I need something waterproofish, but ideally not silicone based as it will be subjected to cleaners frequently which will quickly denature the silicone. It also has to be at least safe-ish to use indoors.

Bear with me here as I’m going to try to be descriptive yet succinct. Want to start by saying I’m pretty savvy in this space but always learning, so pardon me if I misstate anything. I’m also not terribly confident that what I want to accomplish can be done, but thought I’d ask.

We recently bought a new house and we have a stairwell down to the basement. At the top of the stairs, there’s the second of two three-way switches that controls the lights in the basement (ie, the switch with the traveler wire to it only, not the light circuit itself). The lights work great, but the top of the stairwell is very dark. I had an idea to add an additional fixture at the top of the stairs and obviously would like to have it work on the same, existing switch. Just adding a light would obviously not be that big a deal, but the light circuit itself obviously doesn’t run up the stairwell behind the drywall, only the traveler wire.

My question is, is there any way I can install a new fixture above the existing switch and then simply pigtail the hot and neutral from the new fixture to the hot and neutral traveling to the switch? It doesn’t strike me as something that would be possible and/or should be done from a code perspective, but I want to make sure I exhaust all of my options before I accept defeat.

Hi all, first time here. Wife and I are leaning to buying a beautiful old stone cottage that appears in great shape. The additions from previous owners have incorporated the old stone walls into the walls for a really cool look. Problem is, in places like the kitchen, there's virtually no storage because the stone walls are still exposed. Is it safe to add cabinets and things to old walls like this without causing structural damage? Similarly, can walls like these have new doors put into them for expansions? Getting this place hinges on how limited we are by these walls, because it's a small place, so we'd have to add doors for additions, and utilize the stone walls for storage to make it work. Not sure if safe to do on these old stone homes though. Thanks for any help!

Ceiling is roughly 10 feet tall and the fan is 52in and it spins FAST. It has 5500 CFM. have confirmed the fan is spinning the right direction. I’m thinking the fan is too small. If I can barely feel it at 75 degrees outside it won’t do a thing when it’s 100 degrees out.

Hello. I own a 100+ year old home in the Midwest and recently noticed something forming on the walls in the basement. Anyone have a guess as to what it is? Is this something I need to fix immediately?

https://imgur.com/a/QQo5P0F

How might I seal this hole under my gas stove? We have a raging mouse problem that the landlord won't help with so I'm trying my best to seal up as much as I can since the city mice frequently outsmart traps. Many of them come in through this hole connects to the basement. Need to somehow close it up (along with the crack along the wall) while allowing the power cord and gas line to come through. Thanks!!

https://imgur.com/a/vE7rMG7

looking for recommendations for highest quality, longest lasting dimmable LED bulbs.

i have to rent and install some scaffolding to change out bulbs on a chandelier (14 total; mix of standard style and candelabra style).

i don't mind paying premium since changing out bad/burned-out bulbs is hundreds of dollars in time and rental costs.

thanks!

Old owners used a small curtain to block the shelf from water, but we would love to keep the window open visually. How can we protect the shelf from water gathering on it? No exhaust fan so it’s a damp bathroom.

I am redoing my bathroom right now and plan on putting up a wall divider between the bathtub/shower combo and the toilet. The wall is supposed to be floor-to-ceiling, non-load-bearing but needs to contain both the 2" drain as well as hot & cold water supply for the bathtub. Due to the size of the room, the wall can not be much more than 6" wide (otherwise the toilet would be snug) while still containing the drain.

Usually, I'd frame this out with 2x4s on the floor as usual. In this case, however, that wouldn't work since that would mean 2 x 3.5" on each side + space in the middle for a drain (let's say 3" for now), coming out to a total of 10", which is more space than I have to work with. I'm now considering putting the bottom 2x4s on flat (I believe that's what it's called?), e.g. put them "upright" so the 1.5" side would touch the ground and building out a footer with "proper" 2x4s (e.g. 3.5" side touching the ground) as blocks in between the ones on flat. I feel that should be sturdy enough, but I wonder if others have experience with this. I attached a drawing that shows this better.

Also, any advice on how best to attach this to the floor & ceiling joists?

https://imgur.com/a/3buWk8O

My old house has problems with water collecting in one of the rooms everytime it rains. Im getting tired of having to shopvac it out, and soon I will be moving out and I dont want my mother to have to take over that job.

I know there are several more permanent ways to fix this, like getting the basement repaired or having a sump, but I cant afford those yet so I would like a temporary solution.

I tried to get a automatic submersible pump to get the water out, but the best one I could find only activates at 3/8ths inch and stops at 1/3. 1/3 of an inch is still alot to be sitting around causing mildew on everything until the dehumidifier/fan combo evaporate it, which can take a couple days.

The water pools over to one room, but because there isnt very much difference in floor level it is spread out over a larger area at low level.

Is there a better pump I can use that takes it down even lower? What would be a good solution for this?

Thanks for any advice you can give!

Hey everyone. So I am about finished with another watchthrough of Home Improvement, and this is how I envision the characters lives being like since the show went off the air-

In my version, many parts of the finale never happened. The move never happened. Al never married Trudy. Heidi wasn’t pregnant.

Tim- After Tool Time went off the air, Tim decided to go back to school to get his own Masters in Engineering while working as mechanic part time. Remember, Jill doesn’t make enough money yet to support a family on her own. After he gets his Masters, Tim goes on to become a college professor at several local schools, teaching everything from engineering to auto repair to home maintenance. In the 2010’s he starts reviewing tools for magazines and websites, which he still does to this day.

Jill- Dr. Jill Taylor is now a highly thought of therapist in the Detroit area. Done.

Al- After being stood up at the altar again, this time by Trudy, Al gets in his car and takes off on a drive. He has a chance run in with Ailene. After spending some time with her, the two decide to get back together and get married. Unable to have children, the two adopt a brother/sister pair. After Tool Time went off the air, Al took the Tool Time van and converted it into his mobile office, working as a Handyman in the Detroit area, in addition to running Harry’s Hardware.

Speaking of Harry’s Hardware, it has stayed a family business, just like Harry intended. Eventually, all of the Taylor men came in as a partner, and so did the boys when they got older. Harry’s son Dennis also came in as a partner eventually as well.

Heidi- A few months after Tool Time went off the air, Heidi got into a huge fight with her husband Scott over his cheating ways. The two separated again, and to spite Scott, she gives Brad what he secretly wants- a night with her. After this, Heidi and Scott agree that it’s not going to work. They split for good and Heidi takes their child and moves to Washington. Heidi and Brad have kept their night together a secret to this day.

Brad- Speaking of Brad, the following September after Home Improvement ends Brad finds himself at a Junior College in Ohio putting back together the broken pieces of his soccer career. He eventually earns a transfer scholarship to Illinois to play soccer. He goes undrafted in the 2003 MLS draft, signing with the Chicago Fire. After failing to make the roster, he goes to England and plays lower division soccer for a couple of years. He then returns home and joins the Midwest Indoor Soccer League, where he thrives and wins league MVP several times. Still, he holds a grudge to this day against his parents for ruining his once promising soccer career. Brad is now retired from playing and coaches soccer at Central Michigan.

Randy- After returning from Costa Rica, Randy goes off to college where he gets a double degree in Journalism and Applied Mathematics. He travels the world now raising awareness for world global climate issues.

Mark- Eventually, his senior year of high school, Mark comes out to his parents as gay. Mark went to college and got a degree in filmmaking. He and his partner live in Los Angeles and are talented movie directors, running their own production company.

Marty- Tim’s younger brother Marty is now an angry old man, and nobody wants to go anywhere near him. He blames his ex-wife Nancy for all his problems and has had issues with alcohol. Eventually, Nancy had to get a restraining order against him to get him to leave her alone. Not even Tim wants to talk to him anymore.

The title is actually worst than the symptom I think. I think the roofers were pounding too hard on a particular area when they replaced my roof w/ Tesla solar roof which might have more heavier than typical roof. I was thinking of using gorilla glue + metal brackets + screws to 'mend' this... Any advices would be appreciated as I am a noob. Note: the backside of wood piece is hard to get to...

Here's a photo. Not sure how to embed it in this post:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XBDju61527diaN366

Edit: I might be new to this group so I am not allowed to post images.

I just installed new LVP in my kitchen and I have an awkward transition to the carpet that exists elsewhere.

I have extra carpet so I plan to put it over the portion where the subfloor is showing, but I don't know how to handle the 90 degree transition. I was planning to do a zbar but I can't find any info about how I'd do that in this situation. Anyone have ideas about how to handle this?

https://imgur.com/a/tujsogk

The exterior of my window is open to the elements. What should I install to cover it? Window sill nosing?

https://imgur.com/6NIwsHs

My patio has a roof that is fairly flat. Rain collects on the overhanging wall (not sure the right terminology). See photo for an idea of what I mean: https://imgur.com/a/A7UAhoO

The rain water drips into the patio from the wall. What can I purchase to divert the water away? I'm imagining some sort of sloped edge.

Hello,

I have a new built house and the builder use fiber cement board for soffit (https://ibb.co/XzrCQmM). I want to install Govee permanent outdoor light. I heard a few stories about the 3m tape can’t withstand heat/cold in Texas so I got some additional 3d printed mount. Now, I can’t use wood screws on fiber cement soffit. Is there any kind of screw or solution to help me install those lights without let them fall off? It’s a two stories house so it’s not easy to get up there to fix those lights.

Thanks.

I need to recaulk my tub because it’s getting moldy but I am absolutely losing it trying to get the old caulk out. It’s hard and the gap is SO SMALL that my caulking removal tools feel like their scratching the tile or tub and can’t get it out. I’m like beyond annoyed because I already got a small couple inches going but that took 15 minutes, box cutter, tweezers (that can’t fit) and the small dull knife from a nail cutting tool. I wish I didn’t even start this because now I can’t use the shower and I’m such at a loss.

I bought more tools but they won’t arrive until tomorrow. Can someone confirm I can leave this overnight with a few inches of caulk removed as long as I don’t use the shower??

https://imgur.com/a/S7jJvrg

We had new gutters and downspouts installed. We went from the 5 inch to the 6 inch gutters. When it rains the downspouts now seem to make a lot of noise now that I did not notice with our previous gutters. I have read about rain chains and putting a rope in them. I am just curious what else could be making this happen? Could it be the angle of the downspout?

Moved into a house with a sunken living room (there’s a small step down from the surrounding rooms). Carpet is in desperate need of replacing, and we’d love to not have that little lip of carpet going up the walls this go-round. Behind the carpet is bare concrete (not smooth in many spots).

What we’re thinking of doing is bolting 1x4” boards to the concrete using concrete screws, to make the whole wall flush down to the floor. Then we’d replace the 2” trim above with a very tall bit of trim to cover the whole bottom edge.

Is this a crazy plan? I know the extra tall trim would be a bit strange (but it’s carpet now, and that’s pretty weird!). Mostly wondering if the bolting-boards-into-concrete is a good idea or not.

• We are not interested in raising the floor, although we have considered it!

Hi, I recently moved into a house and after moving stuff in realized that the outlet where our TV and consoles and audio equipment goes is only a 2 prong. I looked up as much as I could about my options and see that installed an ungrounded GFCI outlet seems to be the second best option under getting the outlets grounded. I really would rather not spend that much money on getting stuff redone and grounded. I just wanted to ask if having an ungrounded GFCI outlet would be fine to use for three prong electronics (TV, Xbox, PlayStation, stuff like that). I was also thinking getting a surge protector with a fuse would help, and I assume the consoles have some level of their own protection. Thank you!

I had posted this in /r/hvacadvice but only got one response - hoping for some more insight here.

TL;DR - older on-demand oil boiler is not cutting it in the morning for showers once the weather turns cooler - trying to figure out the best course of action for replacement.

I apologize for the wall of text, but I wanted to provide some backstory first. I'm was able to purchase a house in the summer of 2020 before pricing got insane, and it's a ranch built in the late 50's that was updated by a contractor as a flip.

The one main mechanical system that was not updated is the on-demand oil boiler, which provides both my hot water and baseboard heat on the main floor. Half of my basement is finished, with the boiler, oil tank and electric panel on the unfinished side. I've had it serviced every year, but it's at least 30 years old, so I know it's days are numbered. Side note - they actually bumped up the minimum and maximum temperature dials when I first had it serviced.

My main problem starts around this time of year once it starts getting colder here in New England. I'm relatively frugal with my heat, and since it's just me, I'll turn down the heat overnight and use more blankets. However, in the morning, my showers will consistently be lukewarm at best, and I attribute it to the combination of the city water being colder, and the coils sitting overnight. Between the spring and now, I'll have no issues, with only slight temperature differences that only show up if I'm taking a really long shower. It's a combination of older copper pipes running off the boiler, with PEX running to the updated fixtures, and I've already put pipe insulation on the copper parts.

When this system inevitability needs to be replaced, I'm not sure what the best system would be for my situation, in terms of cost and efficiency. Growing up in my childhood home, my parents had well water with an oil furnace with forced hot air heating and (what I believe to have been) an indirect water heater, and their new house has an on demand propane based system for hot water, with a separate oil boiler only for the baseboard heat. I unfortunately do not have natural gas on my road, so that's a no-go. I'd consider a propane system, but due to the layout of my basement, garage, and grading of my yard, I'd have to put the propane tanks on the back side of the house, and then run the line in the ceiling on the finished side to the unfinished side, and I feel like that'd add a lot to the cost.

I'm open to any and all suggestions, as I really don't know what makes the best sense for my situation.

Hello there,

My wife and I own a house in the Midwest. It's a relatively small house (~1700 ft2), and it was built by an academic and architect in the very early 1950s. The house has a very strong mid-century modern design and vibe, and we know that many of the interior walls, at least, have cedar plank cores. It's a very solid little house, which has gone through several remodelings over the decade. However, the kitchen ceiling and the bedroom exterior wall both seem to be made of a mystery material we cannot identify. Both were plastered over by the previous owner, who did some remodeling in 2020-2021. The material in question is hard, smooth, pale or white, and cool to the touch. It does not flake or flake. There are no fibrous materials whatsoever. It almost feels like PVC or something like that. The pictures from the kitchen ceiling show some discoloration, but this is almost certainly due to the fact that we do not have a proper fan over the oven range, so steam etc. sometimes hits the ceiling right in that area. Can you advise? Additional questions are welcome: I do not have any background in construction materials.

Here's a link to some pictures of the mystery material: https://imgur.com/a/vXvNBrQ

Thanks in advance!

My house is on a slab and the kitchen pipe has collapsed. My kitchen is 5 years old. I am having a great deal of difficulty trying to juggle the contracting work (taking the cabinets apart, then putting them back plus a new countertop, tile, floor) with the work of the company jackhammering the floor and replacing the pipe.

I would like to hire someone to coordinate the work. Is that a thing? If so, how would I go about finding such a person?

Philadelphia area

We are changing the siding in our home and we had cedar with many holes due to woodpeckers. We decided to change to vinyl to avoid more issues with that in the future. My understanding was that, once they remove the cedar siding, they would change wood planks that are damaged/rotten. However, the project manager told my husband that it was not necessary because they are putting flashing and house wrap and once these are in place, they will cover the holes and we should not have any issues.

I am concerned about this because I worry that it may allow water and condensation to enter the walls.

We also live in a property with a lot of forest around and we had issues with squirrels and mice entering the attic through the holes during cold months.

Is it common practice to not change planks with holes?

Thank you!

I'm staying with my sister a few days. No caulk in the bathroom shower/tub combo. She's a mom of small kids (bath time) and I am in need of a small project. I'm figuring silicone will be best, but looking for more input.

Bought my house 3 years ago and the dishwasher never worked, and I'm thinking about replacing it if I can get one on sale this Black Friday. My current dishwasher is 23.5" wide, but I only see 24" dishwashers online. The space that was cut into my lower cabinets for this dishwasher is 23.75" wide. Are 24" dishwashers actually 23.5" across, or is my existing dishwasher just a strange size? Brand name Amana but I can't find a serial number or anything. I have a 50's house and it looks like they cut out some lower cabinets for the dishwasher, and I'd like to avoid cutting the hole wider if I can.

I fear that I may have been ripped off on a tile flooring install. The total cost for about 1800 sf was $38,000 for materials and labor. Of that, $17,500 was labor. I have a concrete subfloor, so $3600 was for "crack isolation membrane." The rest was tile, grout, etc. Located in Indiana.

Due to the project being partly funded by a state/federal program, I did not get to choose my contractor. I had to pay the cost difference between LVP and tile, which wound up being a huge amount of money, over $13,000. I feel like it was too much. But either way, I want to know. Any info would be appreciated.

I have a Cape Cod style house, and the second floor (finished) is basically one long room, but with two smaller rooms blocked out at the far end, with little adjacent closets. The main room is probably about 60% of the length of the house and has sloped ceilings on either side that terminate into vertical walls at about 4' from the floor.

It's a very cool space, save for one thing: the chimney column in the room, which also happens to block the light from the only window. It kind of disrupts the whole flow of the room and limits what can be done with the space.

The only thing that the chimney is currently being used for is venting for the hot water heater. There is no fireplace or anything else. I'm thinking that I can probably route the venting to the exterior wall of the house instead, or even switch to an electric water heater to eliminate the need for the chimney.

What I would then like to do is knock out the chimney column from the floor of the second floor to the roof, cap off the hole in the floor, and install a sky light where the chimney used to exit the roof.

What I'm wondering is if the chimney is also providing any sort of structural support or is load bearing. I'm not sure if chimneys are even ever used for that purpose.

Do you think this job would be more complicated than it sounds? I feel like demoing a chimney would be pretty easy, especially only the top third of it, and then the sky light install can just be contracted out to a pro.

Are there any other blind spots in my plan that I might not be considering? Any insight/advice at all is appreciated!

Anyone know why my bedroom and bathroom walls have straps running vertically every five feet or so?

I think they’re plastic.

I’m trying to figure out what redecorating I can do - can I get these removed, or do I have to live with them and the vinyl wallpaper that’s behind them…

Thanks

Edit: house built 1920, renovated in 80-90’s. https://imgur.com/a/X5MuPLO