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A place to share and discuss all things related to home automation.

Home automation is the residential extension of building automation.

It is automation of the home, housework or household activity.

Home automation may include centralized control of lighting, HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning), appliances, security locks of gates and doors and other systems, to provide improved convenience, comfort, energy efficiency and security.

If you would like to learn more about home automation, please look here.

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Replacement Switches? (troubleshooting and product advice)

I have 7 Lumary can lights in our kitchen and ~30 others throughout the house.

There are just two lights in the kitchen that aren't operating correctly. One won't turn on at all and the other just blinks randomly and changes colors between white, blue, green.

I spent the weekend moving every smart device over to the new IoT network we set up and connecting to SmartThings vs just Google Home. While that made responses and commands (and routines!) more responsive and easier, those lights in the kitchen are still a real issue.

This weekend we realized that there are two light switches for the kitchen. One is a simple paddle of on/off and the other is a push button. Both when turning lights off set the lights to "offline" and unable to respond to any commands or automations.

Before I spend the money to order new cans and install them, I'm wondering if the light switches might be partly to blame.

Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations regarding "smart" light switches that, if turned off, will still allow for the devices to remain online and accessible via voice or automation settings?

For the record, Lumary support seems all but non-existent as we've been trying to connect with them for weeks.

16:41 UTC


Motion sensors for a chain-link gate?

We're a Ring, Wyze and Kasa house so ideally Id like to get something that runs on those platforms. Ive checked out Ring's generic motion sensor (Alarm Contact) but it doesnt seem like it would fit. Any ideas/experiences?

1 Comment
15:56 UTC


Somfy Sonnesse 30 Wirefree

Random question, but has anyone had this issue with the somfy motors, I'm going crazy trying to figure it out.

The blinds do not jog (move up and down) when you push the little pin button on it.

To be sure, I slid the motor out of the blind tube and tried again. The motor made a sound like it should when its operational but the black drive wheel doesn't spin.

It appears that the issue is the connection from the gear box that drives the black wheel on the end of the motor to the DC motor inside.

Very frustrating, this is now two motors that have done this and both were brand new out of the box!

15:15 UTC


It feels like innovation has slowed in the recent years.

I remember a few years back you'd hear about some new innovation in home automation every couple of months, now things seem to come at a much slower pace. Are companies not seeing enough growth in the retail consumer sector and focusing their efforts on commercial projects?

15:15 UTC


Z-Wave Nodes keep disappearing and appearing

13:25 UTC


[UK] Best motorised blinds for Bifold Doors

I'm trying to understand what the best options are for us for providing (mostly) blackout motorised blinds for our bifold doors.

We had Hilarys come in and measure them last year but we had a couple of reservations about what they suggested. We would need three blinds of are 215cm each width.

Hilarys seem to only offer Somfy blinds and as far as I know we can use these with their remote but to wire them into a mobile app or any sort of personal home automation we would need to buy yet another hub to bridge their signals onto the internet (and I'm not sure if we could wire into the hub or would have to use their app). Also, as I understand it, Somfy make a range of motors but (last year at least) Hilary couldn't tell me if the motor in the products they provided were the more modern versions.

Specifically, the more modern version knows where the blind is in it's range, so you could specify "half open the blinds" and it would know how to do that. Whereas the older motor/remote types just allow you to press and hold UP/DOWN until you get to the desired height.

This year I've had a look and blinds4u seem to have their own motorised blinds (TUISS Smartview) that seem to offer a better option. They seem to be bluetooth controlled, so they don't need an external hub (but they cannot be controlled over the internet?) but you can program them with a schedule for open and close. How reliable are these blinds - I saw the reviews of the iphone app and they were quite scathing of the app itself.

Has anyone got any experience of using either of these blinds and can give me a warts and all view of them?

Also, I see on both sites that they are advertising double motorised blinds - are these anything more than two blinds suspended on a bracket for each window? Do you just manage these as independent blinds? On the website it says that you need around 12cm drop for the bracket - we don't have that depth available, but the recess depth is quite large - can we just mount these horizonally instead?

Finally, is there any other provider we should be looking at?

10:56 UTC


Does anyone have any experience with this ceiling mounted ZigBee mmwave motion detector?


I've bought it, and I'm currently testing it with a wall plug connected to zigbee2MQTT. I'm impressed so far, it's very responsive, and I've not had any dropped connections, but I'm thinking it's worth doing some due diligence and asking the internet before drilling a hole into the ceiling.

Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0CKVM7XWR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

10:52 UTC


Using Shelly +1PM instead of a Shelly 1 - as a dry contact relay?

I want to ask you guys if Shelly +1PM can work as a dry-contact relay like Shelly 1 did.
I'm not able to purchase the Shelly 1 in my country anymore.
I have +1PM now in my hands and I would like to use it as a garage door controller too.
If yes, then can somebody help me, please with the wiring (how should I connect it to work as a dry-contact relay as I do not want to pass through any voltage to the device)?

Thanks in advance,

07:21 UTC


Yale Assure Lock 2 keyless--sloppy lock?

Hey all I just installed a new Yale Assure Lock 2 Keyless (numbpad version if that matters) and when I lock the door from the inside the lock is a bit sloppy... it's not crisp but has some play in it. Maybe a vid would help but hopefully you all know what I mean. Is this what you guys with this lock are experiencing as well? It works and all but for $150 I was expecting the locking to be pretty firm and crisp.

06:53 UTC


Help: Driveway Gate & Electric Door Strikes to work with Ring

I have been trying to solve this problem on my own for over a year and I’m still stumped. The brief is: I want to buzz my driveway gate and two exterior doors via the Ring app and exterior keypads.

I have a corner lot. On the south side there is a driveway gate and a door. On the east side there is only a door (see attached image). Both doors have electric strikers. The driveway gate is a standard remote operated chain-drive situation. I currently have an ABB system which worked well at first, but it has slowly degraded (no more video capture, doesn’t work on our phones, etc.) and now I can no longer even log into the system to fix/change/update it.

I have Ring spotlight cams around the house, a Ring-enabled garage door, and I recently installed a Ring-compatible Schlage lock on the house front door. I want to stay in the Ring ecosystem so I can control everything from the Ring app.

In theory, a Ring Access Controller Pro 2 + Ring Doorbell at each location gets me 90% there. The Access Controller has two channels so I believe it will do the driveway gate and the electric striker at the south entrance. BUT we should have a keypad at each location to enable coded entry (e.g. the pool guy, cleaning lady, friends dropping something off, etc.). I cannot find a weatherproof keypad that works with Ring.

SO … this is where you come in. How do I control the two doors, the driveway gate, and allow for keypad access within the Ring ecosystem?

I have done some research on the Hubitat, and I feel like there is probably a solution in there somewhere. Perhaps z-wave relays at each exterior door and some z-wave controller at the driveway gate? But then how does this integrate with a Ring doorbell?

I hope I’ve explained my predicament clearly enough. And I hope y’all can help!




1 Comment
05:35 UTC


Monitor offline status in Smartthings? Or next simplest ecosystem?

My system is crazy simple, one zigbee gate sensor, a couple Inovelli zigbee switches, and a handful of other self sufficient systems (hue, Roomba, Arlo, echo). I don't need a lot. Smartthings was simple for me and took two seconds to set up, I already have a galaxy phone and Samsung TV that I bought a cheap zigbee dongle for.

However after only a month I'm pretty fed up. I can't get my TV hub to stay online, zigbee range has been a challenge, and most importantly, I can't seem to figure out a way to monitor offline status of a device. I literally just want to set the inovelli led color if my gate sensor goes offline - if I can't do this, then the sensor is useless in the first place.

So, is there a way that I don't know about? Otherwise, next easiest and cheapest option for a hub and system? To my understanding, home assistant can do this, but it just seems like massive overkill for the number of devices I have.

04:32 UTC


New construction, what should I go with?

We are doing a new construction (4500sq ft) and we counted counted the switches and dimmers in the plan. There are roughly 80 dimmers and 30 on/off switches. 4 fans, 7 exhaust fans and roughly 10 vacancy sensors and 4-5 humidity sensors. So, overall not a large number. There are lots of power outlets. 100+ but I assume they don't need to be automated.

We are torn between Low voltage system (Lutron Ra3 , homeworks or anything else you can recommend) - Lutron (via Best buy) is freakishly expensive. We saw brilliant switches which look great but only wifi so not sure if they will load up our wifi network?

So what will you folks recommend?

  1. Lutron or alternative?
  2. WiFi, low voltage wiring, wave or which protocol?

We also plan to add blinds and security camera as well

00:24 UTC


Do any Smart Bulbs work with Dimmer switches?

Tried 2 so far, wondering if this is

  • A universal thing
  • An issue with my dimmer switch (one of those buttons you can twist)
  • An issue with my smart bulbs

If its number 1 or 2, does anyone know if you can easily replace a dinner switch? 😅

EDIT: I didn't make this clear in my original post, but I'm renting. The fact that the current switch is a dimmer was not my choice, and it's not something I have much control over. I'm looking for advice on how I can remotely control the light, when it's controlled by a non smart dimmer switch

23:46 UTC


Garage Door Learning Remote Control with Google and Home Assistant Integration


I am looking to automate the opening and closing of my garage via Google home at first, but a HA server is in the works. I am not even sure what I want exists. I have looked, but can't seem to find what I am looking for. Please let me explain. I already have a shutter on my garage that goes up and down via remote (on separate buttons). I want a device which will learn those frequencies and zap to the garage, finally, I am able to control that via Google/HA. Does something like that exist. What do I put in my search term? Help much appreciated.

22:20 UTC


Touch Plate replacement with Lutron Caseta

Behold this mess - I am planning on replacing the Touch Plate relays with Lutron Caseta switches.

The layout of this unholy spaghetti is, as best as I can make it out, as follows:

Low voltage wiring is in the upper and lower thirds. That will all come out when replaced with the Caseta switches using remotes at the switch points in the walls @ other room locations.

The middle row has all the high voltage. Only a couple of the hots are coming in and the rest are heading out, to feed about a dozen lights. The few that are hot are pigtailed tother to feed all the Touch plate switches.

The white neutrals are all pigtailed together.

Questions I have

- should I just keep this configuration and straight up replace all Touchplate relays with dimmable Caseta switches that don't havea neutral?

-or should I use switches Caseta switches with neutral wires and use all the existing neutrals (not sure how I would figure that out.)

-If I go with the first option, do I need to worry about the grounds?

-Should I put all the switches in gang boxes, or is it fine to just have them live inside this original metal box with shelves?

Any advice is so welcome!


22:15 UTC


Realtime Dashboard for Superbowl data?

I have an extra screen and I'm looking to cast some fun data on it - anyone know of a good realtime dashboard for the game tonight?

22:07 UTC


Neutral wire

One of the black wires on the switch in my hand is neutral, correct?

20:24 UTC


Shelly Pro 4 Availability topic error

I have several Shelly devices integrated with MQTT through EMQX, and generally, everything operates smoothly.

However, occasionally, the devices online status (indicated by the "device_name/online" topic) incorrectly switches to false, despite the devices being active and connected to MQTT. I can verify their activity and control them directly, which confirms their connectivity. This issue impacts my Home Automation setup, as a false "offline" status prevents control through HA unless I manually override the status to true.

Does anyone have insights into why this might be occurring?

19:27 UTC


reading z-wave devices linked to another controller

I'm just getting into smart home devices. About 8 years ago I played around with some Insteon stuff for home security and flood monitoring, but I abandoned it when my insurance company mandated I get a commerical system with 3rd party monitoring. I ended up hiring a local independent company that installed some equipment (door switches, motion sensors, smoke detector, water monitor, thermostat) with a Honeywell panel. I can access it remotely using the TC 2.0 app. I bought the equipment outright and just pay a monthly monitoring fee which I can cancel at any time.

Now I'm trying to add some of my own smart devices and I was wondering if it would be possible for me to read the status from the devices already installed. I believe they are z-wave. If I bought a z-wave hub, would it just read those devices or are they locked down/encrypted in anyway? If so, any suggestions on a Z-wave hub? I was looking at the TP-Link smart home router as I just put in some Kasa light switches and am pretty happy with them. Right now I have it linked to Google Home, but someday I might move to Home Assistant.

19:08 UTC


Switch for Phillips lights

I recently replaced the lights in my bedroom to Phillips LED Smart Bulbs. They are controlled by the Wiz app. Whenever I turn them off by the wall switch and then cut them back on they reset to the default color and not what it was previously on.

What switch do I need to purchase in order to be able to cut the lights on and off without having to use the app and it go back to the color it was on when turned off?

19:04 UTC


Alarm system that can be professional monitored in Canada?

Hi everyone!

I'm looking to build/buy an alarm system that can be professionally monitored in Canada. I'm open to using a service or building my own using sensors that can tie into Home Assistant across Z-Wave, Zigbee or Wifi. I'd need door and window open/close sensors and probably some acoustic glass break sensors too. A keypad would be nice, but we all have phones that'll do the trick most of the time to disarm the system if we need to do so manually, so not required. A siren is required, though, as well as smoke and CO detectors. The professional monitoring is something my wife would like, too, so that's clearly a requirement.

I looked at Abode, but their marketing team was sorta rude when I asked them some questions, plus their shipping cost to Canada is egregiously high, so I'd prefer to avoid them if possible.

Does anyone have any recommendations?

17:51 UTC


Are there any remote unlock solutions that work on a "twist and hold to open" lock like this?

15:25 UTC


Any recommendation on best product/method for smart lighting throughout the house? - UK

Does anyone have any recommendation on the best product to allow me to control my lights via my app/alexa?

We're redoing a new place and replacing the light switches and looking to automate turning the lights on/off/dimming via an app/alexa etc

Previously had Rako installed in my old home which the previous owner had; however I had to be connected to the home wifi in order to do this. However I was also able to use the light switch to turn it on/off

Friends places for example always had their light switch pressed 'on' and had echo dots in each room.

Couple options i'm considering although not sure if they're any good..

  1. Sonoff

  2. TP Link Tapo Smart switches

  3. MoesHouse

1 Comment
15:24 UTC


Garage Opener recommendation (USA)

We are building a new standalone garage and based on the recent MyQ fiasco, I want to avoid Chamberlain for technical reasons but mainly because I want to boycott them.

What are people’s recommendations for a (double wide compatible) garage opener from other brands that can be actuated using a zwave relay (GoControl, Zooz, etc)?

12:30 UTC


Software for Installation proposal writing

Does there is any proposal writing software that fits well for home automation installation projects?

21:46 UTC


Sonoff DW2 WiFi-L Sensors Offline - Help?

I just bought some Sonoff DW2 WiFi magnetic door/window sensors (the -L version).

I set them up using the eWeLink Android app with no problems - the sensors were immediately found and added by the app. However, the sensors all show as 'Offline'.

I verified that my network SSID and password were correct, and all of my other WiFi HA devices work fine.

I did some Googling and found lots of posts describing the same problem, usually with the non-L version. Most of them mentioned issues with the Sonoff/ITead or eWeLink servers, which were corrected many years ago.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I can do?

21:15 UTC

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