I have a Elk M1 gold with 2 way sensors. I recently got a shipping container to use as a shed. My prior shed was vinyl and the Elk 6022 sensor had no problem transmitting through the walls.

The shipping container is metal and I am frequently losing supervision.

Can I solder an antenna extension to the sensor?

Hey there,over a week ago I decided to change my Xiaomi wireless switches to a "normal" wired light switches (I am using xiaomi smart bulbs). I've made some research, check if my light switch wiring uses neutral wire (no, it's not), and I decided to buy an Aqara H1 Switch, mostly because of it's decoupled mode.

After I connected and configured it, worked pretty well as a smart switch with programmed automations on button (Home Assistant, Zigbee2MQTT), but later on I noticed, that from time to time it's loosing power and stop responding until I turn on lightbulb other way. After my 2nd "research", I found out, that it's a common problem for non-neutral wiring, but there is a solution - like capacitors from Aliexpress or Bypass SRSL-01 from Amazon, which I bought.

Bypass arrived yesterday, but to be honest I'm no electrician and I have no idea, how to connect it properly. The wiring diagram suggest that I should install it to my light source, but I dunno how to do it properly. Any advice would be appreciated!

I have Somfy blinds that I had installed and were originally programmed. One of the blinds needed the bracket adjusted so I took it down and fixed it. Now the blind needs the limits reset. For the absolute life of me, I can not program these blinds. I have 5 different youtube videos and read numerous instructions on the programming sequence and I can not set the lower limit on the blind. Does anyone have this system that has a secret? The blinds will properly set to the upper limit, but they just unroll. These are the instructions I used

https://www.somfysystems.com/en-us/support/faq?question=somfy-rts-motor-programming-instructions-how-to-set-limits

This year, I got really into home automation. I just tackled my most challenging home automation project yet: making our adjustable bed smart. After extensive research (and a crash course in DC power), I realized that off-the-shelf smart adjustable bed systems were either nonexistent or unappealing. So, I dug into the FCC documentation for my bed’s remote and controller. Unfortunately, while it uses 2.4GHz RF and the mentioned BLE functionality is permanently disabled on my model. The controller also has a "multifunction" port, but I couldn’t figure out how to hack it.

Finally, I decided to use relays to control the reverse polarity actuators. I wanted to keep the original system fully intact as a fallback, which meant wiring everything in parallel—trickier than expected with reverse polarity. After plenty of trial and error, here’s the final setup:

1. The original bed controller: Still works exactly as before with the included remote.
2. Two Zooz Zen17 relays: Configured in DC motor mode to raise and lower the head and foot in "smart" mode.
3. Two DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) relays: Ensure that either the original controller or the Zen17 relays are connected to the actuators—never both simultaneously. This avoids backfeeding or conflicting signals.
4. Shelly Plus 1: Controls the DPDT relays. When it’s off, the original controller works. When it’s on, the Zen17 relays take over.
5. Wagos: to tie the wiring together.
6. Custom enclosure: Neatly mounted underneath the bed to house everything.

Once the hardware was sorted, it only took a few minutes of YAML in Home Assistant to build a script. I exposed that to a voice assistant, and now the bed can be controlled with voice commands!

https://preview.redd.it/jnsybtyyz88e1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0189e09b021e37ebab43fb5902483d0dbf267d78

SOLVED:

Disregard. The neutral wire had come lose from the wire nut behind the switch. I didn't think to check that first because the switch was "working" (could control it remotely, indicator light was glowing, it would cycle the contactor, etc...). When I finally looked at the switch wiring, I found the neutral disconnected. Once I re-connected the neutral, the switch is working perfectly now.

I'm not 100% sure if this is the best place to ask - but I'm not sure where else to ask.

I have a 120v switch that controls a contactor (a magnetic relay, basically) that controls a 240v outdoor heater. The circuit has been working fine, but when I installed a Kasa Matter Smart switch, the switch turns on and immediately turns off.

I can hear the contactor engage and immediately disengage, so I am fairly confident that they are wired correctly. Is the smart switch unable to engage the coil for the contactor for some reason (too many/few amps, inductive load, etc???)? Or does it sound like it's a bad switch?

I've seen several similar questions here - but nothing that specifically covers this issue.

EDIT:

Switch: Kasa KS205 V1.60
Contactor: MDP30A-3P-120

I can add many LG ThinQ appliances to Alexa, but I cannot add my Hood. I just want to use simple voice commands to turn on the fan, but there is no option to add a LG Hood in the Alexa app. HAs anyone done this before?

I am about to re-pair my entire zigbee network as I change from a USB to PoE Zigbee coordinator (Conbee II to SMLIGHT SLZB-06M for those that are interested).

My question is: is there a best practice for pairing Zigbee devices? I understand that I should pair the routers first to establish a good mesh but other than that, is it better to:

1. Pair new devices close to the coordinator and then move to final install location

2. Pair at final install location so that the true route is learned

3, Doesn't matter, route will dynamically update

4. Other

Any other advice for The Great Re-pairing also welcome; I've booked an entire day off work as I expect pain with >65 devices to migrate!

Details:

Homeassistant OS running on a VM within Unraid

Zigbee2MQTT for Zigbee device management

Is there an straightforward way to launch scripts (.bat) in Windows 11 computers that are in the LAN, from Alexa? Thanks

Hello all.

I’m trying to figure out if I can install a Leviton ZW15S-1RW along with either a DD0SR-1RM (no locator LED) or DD0SR-DLZ (with locator LED).

My wiring is as shown in this diagram.

Is this possible to do? Or do I need two ZW15S-1RW’s and make one a virtual 3-way?

Thanks.

Alright yall crushed the question I asked yesterday so many great ideas.

Along a similar line.. since wood stove installing am a little concerned about pipes freezing in the attic. To make a long story short we have hydronic heating which means copper pipes in the attic running to a second air handler.

I am looking for a rechargeable temperature probe that I can ducttape to the pipe under the insulation so I can try to map out how the heating affects it in the winter to avoid replacing the system...

I have used a MOCREO in the past but looking more towards something that can work with other smart home apps to eventually trigger my thermostat to run a circulation cycle.. that is a bit further down the road however.

Thanks!

I recently purchased a cheap test motorized retrofit from AliExpress as it was cheap and didn’t mind taking the $60 risk.

Does anyone know if any retrofit motor fits Select Blinds roller shades as it appears their end connectors are somewhat unique?

I’m less concerned about the wireless protocol as I am getting them motorized.

Hello, I just bought Tesla smart feeder with camera. Is it possible to switch the camera off and on? I didn't find the information on Google nor in the manual.. I don't need it recording all the time, only when I'm away and want to look. I can still return it and buy something else, if it is not possible to switch off. Thank you.

Hey all thanks for reading.

Recently gor a wood stove insert installed. I pulled permits for the work due to my county having some odd rules.. The electric outlet that was added into my fireplace was connected to the sump pump. Due to any electrical additions requiring to be brought up to code the sump is now a GFI outlet.

I would like to plug in some form of wifi sensor that will trigger an alert when the power goes off so I can check the outlet before my basement floods.

My wifi has a battery backup lasts an hour or so.. so not to worried about the outlets being close together but on different circuits..

Any recommendations would be super helpful trying not to go over 100$

Cheers

I am struggling to get this going. The PI has micro HDMI, I finally got a micro HDMI to HDMI adapter only to realizer all my monitors use DP, not HDMI.

Why doesn't the OS just come with SSH enabled? Is there anyway to enable this without a monitor?

So I was testing out the "shelly-homekit", then wanted to revert back to factory settings.
I waited some time, thought it was done and then as soon as I closed the tab, I noticed it was still in progress.
I then waited 10 more minutes just to be sure, but wasnt able to connect to it.
I then tried the 10 on and off toggles, didnt work, then I tried the 10sec on the Shelly itself, didn't work.

Is this Shelly kaput?
I have a Shelly Mini 1 Gen3

Hi! I have a old thermostat (HAGER EK539N) that it is used to control heating (winter) and cooling (summer). I would like to replace it with a smart option. I saw Netatmo as affordable solution but the cooling mode is not available.

This is the electrical schema

Hey everyone! I am new to LED strips and how to use them properly. I am working on installing some under cabinet lighting and have done a fair bit of homework to get to this point. The kitchen is finished so I will be running wires down the wall and into the basement to get to each light location. 99% of the time we will use a warm light, but I kind of want RGB for those rare party occasions. Will the items listed below work for under cabinet lights? Any better options out there?

BTF 5 in 1 LED light strip - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0D5HBVKHP?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_X27XXX58GEH1TN8J42JD

BTF Controller and Driver - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C5XH6C5R?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_CA0FSN172T6GMKBQ3KSP

BTF 24V power supply - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T6QX737?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_CA0FSN172T6GMKBQ3KSP_1

Smart motion + dimmer switch - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B099KLHG5V?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_Q9PNV7BVV7B87CJZ16W2

16/6 electrical wire - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CN778SWZ?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_X27XXX58GEH1TN8J42JD_1

Aluminum channel - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MPX3WHM?psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_ct_X27XXX58GEH1TN8J42JD_2

Hi there!

We're in the process of building a home (large but not mansion-ous) and are trying to think through automation/control options. The main things on our radar right now are lighting and shades and I had a few questions in terms of control.

I believe I can achieve our desired functionality using Lutron's Homeworks system BUT I'm generally averse to proprietary systems that require a licensed technician to configure, modify, troubleshoot, etc. (I realize the benefits of that approach, in terms of a locked-down system that's glitch free, etc). Also, I'd be interested in having the ability to tweak things on my own from time to time, rather than having to call a tech each time. I'm fairly tech savvy, know a bit of Python, and feel like I might find it interesting playing around with some of the control systems. And so I'm trying to understand whether I could achieve the desired functionality using just RadioRa3 (simplest) or maybe in combination with Home Assistant.

Here are some of the things that I think would be nice/useful to be able to do:

1. Have "scenes" for particular rooms. This might be just lighting, shades, or some combination of the two things. And in each case, I'd like to be able to configure a particular light level, shade height, etc.

2. Configure the shades to lower to X% at a certain time, relative to sunset or sunrise.

3. Configure lights in the living room to gradually dim to X% as sunset draws near.

4. Turn on soffit lighting in all rooms with a single action (rather than individually in each room).

5. Turn off all interior lights with a single action (both from bed and also from an exit point or from a smartphone).

6. Configure a "welcome home" scene that turns on certain lights in certain rooms to a predefined level.

7. It would be nice to be able to have the shades lower to X% if the outdoor temperature exceeds a predefined threshold.

I'd appreciate feedback on which of the above can be done just with the RadioRa3 system, which would need Home Assistant, or which would require Homeworks.

Also, in the future I can imagine wanting to do a handful of other things that I'm guessing RadioRa can't handle, like these:

1. Open a motorized clearstory window when the interior temperature exceeds X degrees.

2. Triggering various devices/activities based on motion sensing.

3. Turning on a ceiling fan when the interior temperature exceeds Y degrees.

I'm guessing all of these additional things would be doable but would require Home Assistant, is that right?

Thanks for any feedback! :)

Hi, I am looking for wirelessly controlled radiator valve. Preferred is compatibility with Matter, Apple HomeKit, Zigbee 3 or Wi-Fi. My problem, where valve with thermostat is not ideal, is that valve is next to the boiler and different room (with thermostat) is being heated by underfloor heating system. Any advice for suitable valve?

I am looking for a standalone speaker (or a hub connected to a speaker) that can play an alert (ideally a custom TTS message) that is triggered via a web push notification.

This is for my office to notify a team on the floor when an account is marked as At Risk in Salesforce. I would trigger an outbound message via Salesforce that can push into Zapier or any other web service, which in turn I want to relay into a message that plays out loud on the floor.

I was considering somethig that maybe sends an alert to an Alexa Echo speaker, but open to alternative ideas.

I have a few Nest smoke detectors (wired) with first alert wired ones in the rest of the rooms. But need a total of eight, and initially wanted to put a nest in every room, but couldn't justify the high cost. I don't think it's still worth the cost.

What I am looking at is kiddie or Xsense. I like how the NEST's have a night light feature, but am wondering what others are doing now. I want hard wired, powered with battery backup, interconnection and the ability to integrate into home automation software such as home assistant, and the ability to alert my phone.

I am moving from the google echo system as I have unifi cameras now and am moving to the ecobee thermostat, haven't purchased yet. Ideas?

Hello, looking for a solution on how to control water heater turning on and off based on immediate electricity consumption per phase. In other words - if <a device> measures consumption to be higher than X kW, the water heater immediately turns off (presumably a smart-plug for the heater turns off). A dowgrade, but still acceptable, would be that if appliance A (in this case the dishwasher) is on, the water heater is always off.

The reason is: I have solar power plant on the house and it only provides 3,2 kW max consumption per phase. If the immediate consumption is higher than that, the solar power plant (and consequently the whole house) shuts down to prevent damage to the solar power plant. Spreading the appliances in a more balanced way across the phases is not an option - one phase needs to be dedicated exclusively to a heat pump (aircon/heating). Also, don't wanna move the water heater outside of the solar power plant (to plug the water heater directly into the grid) as the heater is quite an important factor in the return of investment of the solar power plant.

Advice much appreciated! Thanks

I don't know if I'm making this more complicated than I need to. I have an outdoor project that includes nine small lights (can be incandescent or LED). I'd like to be able to turn on the lights individually. I can use batteries or something plugged in. Here it is in a nutshell.

https://preview.redd.it/wnewt7u6i18e1.png?width=380&format=png&auto=webp&s=3bf07167c9d1726221fc9da684727c8d38c91f9f

I'm relatively new to programmable home automation and lighting controllers, but not electrical work in general. Everything I've googled seems to be either a smart plug (too limited) or controllers for LED strips (doesn't fit my use case).

TL;DR: Looking for a physical controller to replace IR/(RF?) lights, ideally with learning capability.

My parents have a pretty large collection of LED lights they'll cycle in and out over the year. More during Christmas, a different set during Halloween, etc. Some are permanent, others are seasonal.

At night my folks will gather up all the remotes in a loose pile and go around each room, cycling the remotes to turn off the lights. I assume the process is reversed in the morning or light evening.

I'd like something that would replace most or all of these (and more) into one, so they have a magic On/Off wand.

They're scattered all over and outside the house in various outlets, so replacing them with smart plugs would get expensive quickly, and some of them forget their settings if unplugged as well.

None of their smartphones/tablets have IR blasters anymore, so an app is out of the question. Plus it'd probably end up being something I'd have to come up to set up, which'd mean there'd be long stretches where they're doing things manually again.

All the learning remotes I've looked at seem geared towards TVs/HT setups, so a lot of that functionality would be overkill, and might even get in the way if it tries to guess what device it's for and reprograms the other buttons to match.

Thanks in advance!

Shown here: A relatively light season for remotes

I have 4 of these switches, Ultrapro model 51398 controlling 3-way light circuits. Per the instructions, they are installed properly with correct neutral wire and traveler/line/load wiring. 3 of these work flawlessly. The smart switch and the add-on switch work manually and the smart switch works with the app and Alexa. One of these pairs doesn't work with the add-on switch. The smart switch works perfectly both manually and on wifi. The add-on dummy does nothing. I've tried swapping sides, even though I know which box is upstream to the panel, and nothing. I've traced the travelers to verify their continuity (3-way circuit was functioning fine with the old toggle switches). Is it possible I just have a bad smart switch?

Does anyone know of a digital picture frame without any interactivity on the device itself? Looking for a way to send pictures to a display for my mother in law who suffers from dementia. If it has buttons or interactivity, she will play with it and find a way to mess it up, so I’m looking for something that is purely a display screen connected to an app to which I would be able to manage and upload photos. Bonus points if the app subscription is free, but I understand if that is asking too much.

Hey guys! I'm getting more and more into the idea of fully automating my home. Currently I just have some feit smart bulbs and my TVs all hooked up for google assistant, but I really wanna get a full on Jarvis situation going. I'm going to be coming into some decent money soon so I'd like to go full smart everything (laundry, dishwasher, faucets, shower, door locks, etc.)

I want it to be extra, though. I wanna do the party tricks like talking to my house and having it talk back. I want to be able to give it multiple commands ("turn on the shower. I'm feeling 109 for the temp. And set the dryer to run on high for 10 minutes so my towel is warm tonight. Also lock the door so I don't get barged in on." Or "I've got these ingredients, what can I make? Cool let's make that, set the oven to the required temp and walk me through the recipe.")

Are there any turnkey solutions currently to let me live my Tony Stark dreams?

I’m hanging a HA tablet dashboard over a recessed outlet. However, I don’t have enough room in the recessed outlet for both a USB adaptor and on/off smart switch. I figured I’d use a Shelly relay in the wall and a slim dumb USB brick to turn on/off for battery topping up.

My questions are-

1. Is this the best way to accomplish this?
2. If so, which Shelly would you get and how would you wire it? I only seem to find diagrams for a light switch, but this would be powering an outlet.

Thank you!