I'm trying to flash tasmota on a sonoff zigbee bridge pro but I''m getting Invalid head of packet (0x46) error.

I searched but couldn't find any useful info as to what is causing that error. I've tried two different USD-TTL and I get the same error.

Any ideas?

Is there any way i can automate the rotating of this dials. What i want is the dial should be rotated to 45 mins then when it completes the other dial should be rotated to drain.

Are there any iot devices available to achieve this task. I am ready to buy two devices for each dial.

Please find the photos of the dials attached for better idea.

Thanks for your time.

Hi. I have a Liftmatic All-Acul gate that stopped responding yesterday. I changed the battery on the clicker, but when I tried, it just blinks yellow. I then looked at the circuit and this is the following result. The light next to radio does blink green and there’s a clicking noise when I press the clicker. Any insight before I call a repair person would be appreciated. Thanks!

I have two Kwikset 620 Zwave locks that i've had for 1.5 years. They've always worked perfectly. Somewhat recently I noticed they stopped auto-locking from Hubitat. Digging deeper, it looks like it's because they're not reporting correctly whether they're locked/unlocked.

If I go into Hubitat and manually open/close a lock, it works correctly. It's just that when it unlocks it still says "locked", so the auto-close logic won't work. Any ideas how to fix something like this?

Can anyone explain what is the difference between wired (using ethernet to connect to the internet) and non-wired (just powered by usb and connected through wifi) Zigbee hubs? There seem to be a few devices that just won't connect to non-wired hubs and I can't figure out why. Is there a way around this apparent limitation?

My college gave me a project to turn off all the lights and fans in the classroom when no one is present. The room is around 20 metres long and 20 metres wide. I'm planning to use ESP32 for this project. Which approach would be best? To use some kind of occupancy sensors or cameras? And which sensors would you recommend for it?

Hi all,

I require a way to control a few taps out in some fields - to fill horses drinking water, no obstructions, just fields.

3 taps in total, vary from 110meter to 200 meters away from a telegraph pole where i could house a hub of some kind (which has a POE ethernet connection out to it - and a wifi access point).

Most hubs/timers seem to adopt a bluetooth or zigbee protocol, which is lacking the range i need.

No power out by these taps either.

Has anyone come across a solution to my needs? - i was hoping wifi, but i cant find any timers that use wifi.

I do run home assistant, so could adpot a broader range of options.

Thanks all

There are many, many versions of things like this on Amazon, but every single one I can find uses RF. I need one that uses IR so I can control it with my ancient Harmony remote (outdoor use is not a requirement). Anybody know of any options?

Hi everyone,

I have been reading a little about NFC tags and am interested in setting up some tags in my home e.g. open/close garage door, arm Ring security, connect to guest wifi, etc. From what I have read so far, I can use NFC Tools to write to the NFC tag and can use an app like home assistant to set up some of these automations.

I downloaded the home assistant app on my Galaxy S24 and it says I need to connect to my server. Honestly, this seems like it is harder than it should be and I am having difficulty finding info online regarding what I need to do to complete my setup.

I am hoping someone can direct me to a good article that can walk me through what I will need and the basic steps to take to set up my automations.

Thanks in advance.

Hi. I have 4 ceiling speakers in my kitchen that all run to a rack in my basement. I hooked up my WIIM amp in the basement to the speakers and they work fine. I also have a Samsung TV in the kitchen that I could plug into a Ethernet Cat 6 cable that goes to the basement. I want the TV audio to play on the ceiling speakers. I was told to put a audio extractor behind the TV, plugging it into the Cat 6 cable going down and then to the TV ARC slot using a HDMI cable. I was then suppose to put the other audio extractor in the basement and connect it to the ARC slot in the WIIM amp. I tried this and it does not work. Does anyone know what to do to make this work? Thank you!!!

I have been trying to find a simple button (dual is best) that can work with my ST's hub. The best is wifi but Zwave or maybe Zigbee (possible distance issue) could work too. Most of the ones I have found either do not integrate with ST or require a separate hub. Any suggestions are very much appreciated.

We have several properties that we manage with lots of Yale YRD216 locks. In one house we have two locks we're trying to add to smartthings and everytime they both show as light switches. We've spent hours on the phone with Yale and Samsung with no solutions. It's amazing how much these techs don't know about their own products. We've removed the locks and re-paired multiple times, done factory resets, moved the hub and replaced the hub. It's now about two feet from the locks and hasn't made a difference. They also show offline after about 30 min but that is pretty random. The only thing consistent is that they show up as light switches.

I wanted to share a 'solution' that I've found to my Ultraloq U-Bolt Pro WiFi dropping out.

If the internet is anything to go by, this is a common problem that owners of this lock experience.

Unfortunately, I'm not quite sure why my solution / fix has worked, so one of the reasons for sharing it is to see if the great minds of Reddit might be able to narrow down the fix.

Long story short, the lock started working perfectly after I purchased a 'grey market' ASUS router (i.e., a router that was originally sold in China, but then imported and resold in Australia).

Original problem

The lock would connect to my 2.4G network but drop every 10 minutes or so, sometimes reconnecting reasonably quickly, sometimes not reconecting for hours. Every other function of the lock worked perfectly.

This would occur irrespective of where the WiFi access point was and irrespective of signal strength.

I tried each of the suggested 'fixes' put forward by Ultraloq, including (and I quote):

1. U-Bolt Pro WiF does not support any PPPoE network protocols or the Static IP Address;
2. We don't recommend using any WiFi range extenders to connect the U-Bolt Pro WiFi ;
3. Please make sure port 8883 and port 443 are open on your router;
4. Please turn off the VPN (Virtual Private Network) if the connection fails intermittently.
5. For mesh networks, we recommend setting a DHCP reservation, which will give you more stable connectivity. You can set it up through the app settings on your router. You may contact your WiFi provider support for professional assistance.

I also used the following routers to see If that would assist:

1. TP Link Archer VR1600v
2. TP Link RE305 Extender
3. ASUS RT AC68U
4. ASUS RT-AX92U (grey market purchase)

There was no difference in behavior with respect to the first three routers.

Current 'solution'

Immediately following installation of the fourth router in the list above, the chinese market ASUS RT-AX92U, the lock started working perfectly. The access point names etc. are identical to those originally used.

I am not at all sure why this fixed it, but it did.

My current theories are as follows:

1. The WiFi 'frequencies' used in Australia and China are slightly different;
2. The protcol used by the lock incorproates Chinese characters or is otherwise different and therefore isn't fully compatible with routers built for non-chinese marekts / only comaptible with some routers;
3. Something about the router being an AX router is what solved it; or
4. The default settings in the RT-AX92U are suitable for the lock whereas the settings in the three outehr devices were not.

To be clear, I am not sure whether the fact that the router is originally from China is what fixed it or whether it is something else about this model of router that works. I am very interested to hear if this information helps anyone else solve the problem. Perhaps there is someone out there with an Australain market RT-AX92U who could clarify whether the lock works well with that router irrespective of where it is sold.

A bit of an essay, but this one frustrated me for a long time and it really is a great little lock.

So This is ok but there is a delay...is there a way to push all 4 states to the "test 4" unify node..

The Flow...

I am about to buy 16 SmartWings blinds for my home. I am a Google only guy (never iPhone) and wondering if I should go with a Zigbee motor instead of Matter to save the $70 per blind?

I'm looking to update my old garage door opener by adding smart controls to it. The opener works fine, but it's definitely from an era before "smart home" was a thing. I like to think I'm pretty handy around the house and would like to integrate it into my current home automation setup through DIY - at least as much as possible to save some costs. So, how achievable is this?

It's basically a question of retrofitting an old mechanism with a simple 2-button remote with smart technology. But what kind of devices or kits can add smart functions to an older model? Something that lets me open and close the garage door remotely using my phone or through voice commands.

I've seen a few products online that can "bridge the gap" between old tech like this and new systems, but I'm not sure which ones are reliable and easy to install. I'd appreciate any recommendations on specific brands or models that you know of. Also, if it's really too hard to do it myself, I can use this Austin garage door repairs shop to install a new opener, but I'd still prefer to retrofit the older one if possible.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice!

I'm trying to setup my rm mini 3 to power my philips tv with alexa.

I've set all the buttons up but when I say "Alex's mute the television" alexa says okay but nothing happens, this is the same for all the buttons apart from the power on and off.

Can someone please help as this is doing my nut in

My dad is doing some renovations in our living room and bought a few Fibaro Dimmer 2 but without any hub and would like to use them as regular switches (dimmer was cheaper than switch). He would want to control it with some off brand remote that we previously had and via app.

So my questions are:

• Is it possible to set up dimmers to act like regular switches?
• Can you pair them to the off brand remote without a hub?
• Can you also use the app without a hub?
• Is it possible to have a USB hub that's just connected to the TV instead of some device/computer?

I have a couple of Tuya Zigbee Presence Sensors coupled to my home assistant installation and I’m generally happy with how they function. The one thing that bugs me however is the fact they also turn on when I’m in a room behind them, with a wall in between.

Does anyone know if and how I could block the mmWave radar to stop it from detecting me from the rear of the device? I tried aluminium foil but that doesn’t seem to be doing anything.

I am writing a program for various inventories at home (which I know already exist but I enjoy the project aspect) and am looking for an inexpensive but reliable wireless barcode scanner. Do you have a model or brand you enjoy or have used before and trust?

I just installed a KS230 kit on a 3 way circuit of WAC Lotos lights. However, the Kasa switch only dims the lights to maybe 75%. I was showing someone the issue and they couldn't even tell that they had dimmed at all.

I've gone through the calibration step to set the minimum dim. Even if I set it all the way to the minimum that the app allows, I get the same behavior. The lights are of good quality and rated to be dimmable to 5% with TRIAC (and ELV) dimmers, so there shouldn't be any issue with them. Is there something I can do to fix this or is this simply a compatibility issue and I have to give up on Kasa.

Well it happened, after living almost 2 years at my apartment complex one of my packages finally got stolen.

I’ve decided to invest in a doorbell camera and I’m fairly new at this. I’m only familiar with ring doorbell cameras since my parents have one. They do pay a lot for their subscription however and I want to avoid that if possible.

My question is, what’s the cheapest subscription? I want one that’s wireless and is easy to set up if possible. I’ve heard a few good things about Reolink and eufy. I’m mixed with eufy though because I’ve heard their motion detection isn’t great. I’m debating on going with Blink also.

I am about to start a gut renovation of my apartment, including new electrical panel and wires, and looking for home automation setup recommendations.

Which system / products / brands would you recommend, for someone designing it from scratch?

I am mostly interested in voice controlled lights, tv’s, Sonos sound system and windows shades, but it would be nice to add smarter automation features in the future.

What are some good ideas on opening a gate when your property has a power outage? Battery backup? UPS?

I have no idea what I'm missing.

I just bought a C200, I've got it into HA using Tapo: Cameras Control.

Now I am trying to bridge it into homekit, using Homekit Bridge, and I get nothing.

My bridge is set up fine, all my switches and climate etc entities are being bridged. But the camera doesn't show up at all.

I can't figure out why... all help welcome!

Hello everyone,

I currently room with other people. I want to be able to lock my room door securely. I currently have just a knob on my door that is easy to bypass. I don't want to heavily modify the door since I don't own the place.

Is there a smart lock that can go behind the door that I can open with my phone. Something like a Slide Bolt Latch but smart? (big plus: if it can open with proximity).
I wasn't able to find anything online. If you have any other suggestions, feel free to provide them.