/r/consolerepair
Anything related to console repairs, mods, hacks, advice, questions, general technical discussions, or games and accessories, is welcome here. Arcade posts are absolutely welcome as well. No memes pls.
Once you find a solution to your issue, even if you don't find it from this community, please update your post or post a comment to let the world know the solution.
Websites
Screwdrivers
Wiha 40Pc Single Driver w/ bits
Multimeters
Soldering Irons
General
Electronics
Identifying electronic components
Identifying surface mount components
Console Disassembly
Users offering repairs
Want to offer your repair services? Message the mods!
Find a local repair shop
Repair Shop List (editable)
/r/consolerepair
Hello all,
Was unclipping a stubborn pot on the stick box, and once it finally came loose I accidentally knocked off a small resistor.
Not sure how screwed I am - the pad is still intact and luckily I have the resistor but I never soldering anything that small before but am interested in trying to save this.
Best, SM
Not really a repair but more of if it's even possible to remove this white paint off of this copy of pokemon stadium 2. Sadly can't swap the back since it's exclusive to this cartridge
Hi all, I was replacing some shells for a pair of joycons, im pretty experienced with the joycons and all went well however the right one refuses to pair wirelessly. I assumed it was the wireless chip not seated correctly and unplugged and plugged it back in multiple times. No dice. OK instead I took a wireless chip out of a different joycon to see if that would work, it didn't. However I noticed the joycon I took the chip out of still connected wireless even without the chip? What's that about?? Could this be an issue with the motherboard itself as it seems the wireless chip isn't even necessary for Bluetooth syncing? Anyone have more experience with the joycons or with this issue in general? At an impasse at this point. Thanks in advanced.
I recently got a development kit Xbox 360 for $10 (it appears to be originally issued to Brash Entertainment). I knew it was busted going into it. I didn't want to be tempted to start working on it right off the bat and risk damaging it, so I fixed 3 dead Xboxs before I even attempted to start it up. Today, I finally felt ready, so I plugged it in, started it up, and... nothing. No lights, sounds, nothing. I looked at the power brick and it had a red light on it instead of orange. Tried the power brick on other Xboxs and it worked just fine. Stumped. Any ideas? Could it be bad contacts where the power supply connects to the Xbox?
After trying to fix the controller drift the joystick snaps or clicks does someone know why
I have a GameCube that stopped playing discs after many years of working use.
I first adjusted the laser. That didn’t work, I then recapped the optical drive board. That didn’t work and then I even replaced it with a new optical drive that does not work.
The GameCube motherboard itself is clean and doesn’t seem to have corrosion anywhere near the plug for the disc drive.
What should I do now?
FYI this is the first time I’m doing a repair like this so consider me a noob.
Hi, could any and all of you share your expertise and opinions on the following issue?
I had a USB-stick plugged into my PS4 pro's front interface and on touch I saw a bright spark, which, to me, seemed like an electric disgarge. The console itself was and continued to be powered on, however, the HDMI output went out for a couple of seconds. I had a few crashes and a couple of database rebuilds trying to plug the USB-stick back in after the acedent.
Now it is smooth sailing, however, when trying to plug USB-stick back in, just touching the port with it, shuts down the HDMI output. The back port works fine, the front ones seem to charge the controllers without any problem.
So, what could be the consequence of this electric discharge such that HDMI output goes out now? Can I damage the console even further, while using the front interface? And what should I look for on disassembly?
Thank you! And wish you all well!
My Switch OLED suddenly showed an error message on screen and wouldn’t boot up. Somebody on YouTube suggested resetting the router and it worked, up to a point! However It would no longer charge and eventually the battery ran out. So I sent it in to Nintendo Europe for repair under guarantee - only 10 months old and the report came back, Water Damage!! Charge - 100 euros for a replacement refurbished unit. It’s never been near any water and I’m the only one who uses it. Plus it was working fine until the battery finally ran out. I live in Spain and speak a little Spanish so I rang the support number but got nowhere. I also made the mistake, I think, of enclosing the (working) controllers which they say in the report are malfunctioning but they will repair them for free! This just seems like a complete scam. I hope at least I get my game saves back, probably not.
This isn’t really an issue just more of a rare inconvenience. But when I work on a PS5 HDMI port sometimes I’ll accidentally just touch the Liquid Metal. Most of the time it’s with my hand, arm, or with a microfiber cloth and not notice until it gets somewhere or what feels like ever where(I do completely clean it up and replace the liquid metal after). Is there anything specific anyone uses to cover the Liquid Metal while they work on it or is this only an issue for me and I’m just a buffoon. I’m sure I could use kapton tape or something like that just wanted to see if anyone else had a better solution. Thanks.
Hey,
When trying to install picofly, I accidentally desoldered a resistor(?) and lost it. Do any of you know the value of the resistor?
Best regards
My buddy's phat PS2 is freezing in the console menu and in games. My gut feeling is a capacitor issue. Has anyone experienced this and/or fixed this?
After changing analog sticks to hall effects, I'm now missing almost all button inputs. Only L1 and D-pad is working normally and replaced sticks work without any issue. Has anybody have similiar issues? Could it just be flux in the wrong place. I had trouble connecting microphone flex to connector due to flux residue. I try to give it another cleaning tomorrow but if anyone has other suggestions, I would like to hear them.
The left stick works fine other than when you push it in it doesn't register the button push. It was working fine until a few days ago. R3 works fine. Can this be cleaned to fix it or do I need to replace the switch?
I'm gonna shell swap my Switch Oled. I have to replace the regular thermal paste with mx-4 and need to replace the pink putty. I was gonna use K5 pro viscous paste but I got this pink stuff for like a dollar on allie express. Should I use the cheap pink putty stuff or the K5?
I recently opened up my ps2 slim and took out the shell safely and i cleaned the shell of my ps2, after drying it thoroughly i put it back together and tried turning it on. When i pressed the power button it turned on with a dim light and nothing showing on my screen. Please help me out. Thanks.
Got this cheap Steam deck lcd with a no power issue.
The owner told me that he put it to charge overnight and it just stopped working in the morning.
He did mention that he lost the original charger, so I assume the wrong charger was used, don't know if that's what killed the device. It charges at 15.04v and draws 0 amps. The voltage on most of the components seems to be kind of jumping between 0.04v - 0.4v. I have replaced the MAX77691 Power Management IC Chip, now I've got a different result. When plugged in to a charger (Steam deck charger) it shows 15.04v and 0.04~0.047amps.
Still, no LED nor Power. I did notice that the IC chip I replaced is getting pretty warm to the touch, no other heat spot. I don't really know where to continue from here, any advices would be greatly appreciated!
Here's 2 pics of the New IC chip I Installed.
Hey all,
I'm trying to revive an old PS2, I tested the outputs on the power board and it's reading 0v. I checked the fuses and they seem fine which landed me firmly out of my depth for repairing it.
I was looking to buy a replacement board but I can only find 50001/50006 boards, and a few that are listed as 5000X and 50001/50006.
My assumption would be that 5000X would work with any 5000 series PS2, but I also know that the last digit is the region. I'd have assumed that an American PS2 would contain a different power board vs a European one but I can't find much on the internet about it.
I was hoping you guys could fill in the gaps in my knowledge and point me in the direction of where I might source a replacement board.
Thanks!
Hi all,
I just wanted to ask if anyone knew where I could buy just these rubber support that go on the frame of a BDM-010 controller.
Hey guys, scoured the sub here and didn’t quite find what I was looking for so I’ll throw this out to the experts:
N64, has been opened, board cleaned to include under cartridge slot, jumper pack slot, etc. I have another working N64 so I can rule out game cartridge, cables, etc. I’m at the point where I don’t know what else to check. Visually all chips, capacitors, and solder points look good to me, but A/V giving nothing. Is there a list somewhere of pins I can check with the ol’ meter to track down the issue?
Appreciate your help in advance.
So I was modding my joy con when 2 unfortunate mishaps occurred.
I lost the button that allows you to undock/disconnect the joy con. However, I cannot find the name of this button and don’t know what to search for online as a replacement.
I stripped one of the outer 3 pronged screws on the outside. Any ideas for how to remove it?
Any help would be much appreciated!
I bought a CECHB01 off of eBay in April. It ran great and had no problems. I left it alone for a few months because I was busy, but now that I try to turn it on again, it just won't work. I've had this problem for a month or two, but I didn't think much of it and I thought I would just try it again later. Now, no matter how many times I press the button, it refuses to boot up.
Whenever I push the power button, it turns from red to green for about five seconds, the fan runs, then the light turns yellow, then back to red again, and the fan stops. After turning to red, it continues to blink red until I turn it off. It doesn't even have time to display anything on my TV screen. Is there anything I can do to solve this issue?
EDIT: Nevermind lol, on a part of the bottom there was a small piece of plastic wedged in between some plastic pieces, i picked it out and snapped the plastic back into place and it works fine now. I have no idea how that solved my problem, but it looks like I won't be needing to do much else to it.
Hey so I have a ps4 external storage that when plugged in the ps4 doesn’t show it at all, and if I plug it into windows it says something is connected but doesn’t show either, it shows on disk manager and says I need to initialize it I’ve tried and says fatal hardware error, did it die? Can I fix this? Do I just have to give up? Any info would be great thanks