I have a ds4 controller that only clicks but doesn't swipes, even cleaning it doesn't work too and i cant replace the orange ribbon cable on the touchpad pcb since it's soldered on the board.

I'll try to find a replacement pcb later..

Help im desperate

i accidentally scratched with nail polish remover on my 30th editon

i tried with nail polish rmeover but it became blank

pleas eplease help

advise please!!! Im so sorry and cant stop crying it wouldnt come off even though i scratched and scrached and tried with a claning wipe....

So i tried with nail plish remover and now....

its ruined

please be kind im autistic and this just put me in a meltdown and i cant stop

Having a wierd issue with a MegaDrive i am working on. The console did not turn on at first, did a recap and I get power now, but no video. By chance I pressed the reset button and got a moment of video. Since the reset button just shorts to ground, I tested again using a pair of tweezers to short to ground and got a moment of video. I have rechecked the polarity of all the capacitors I installed and they are correct, I also searched the board for shorts on solder joints and didn't see any. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas?

As the title says, I have a white ps4 slim and did the described work to it. I refurbish/repair consoles as a hobby so this definitely wasn't my first rodeo. But when I'm in a game or even a game menu, the fan will go to what seems like max speed, and the air coming out the back is just warm. I noticed this in games like fortnite and life is strange 2. I can play the games and the fan does chill out at times. I've never actually gotten an overheating message from it. But I close the ga.e to avoid damage, because the fan is obnoxiously loud for having fresh paste and such.

There's only two possible explanations I've heard or can think of. The clamp may have not been tightend all the way (unlikely), or the actual APU is failing, at least the temp. sensor part. The top cover was a little harder to put on when I was done, so maybe I could take a second look on the inside. But do you guys have any solutions? I used arctic mx-4 paste and arctic pads, so no cheap off brand stuff. Thanks for any help.

I have this sears video arcade 2. This console did not power on when I got it and found that the power switch was broken so I replaced it with something I had on hand. The console powers on and reads games but my issue with this is when playing a game, there is no left input. I've tried multiple joysticks and games with the same results. I have reflowed alot of pins for the controller ports and the chips in the area. I have checked for broken traces but can't seem to figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thank you for your time.

Looking to buy a friend an NES and a couple games for Christmas and am trying to decide between a couple options (he's big into Nintendo and collectibles).

1. Buy NES Console with new 72 pin and some games: Looking on Ebay these seem to be pretty common. I am aware a new 72 pin may go bad quicker compared to the original 72 pin, but how long would the pin realistically last? I also heard of the "death grip" which would suck a lot if he had to use pliers to remove the games.

2. Buy NES Console with original 72 pin but cleaned and some games: I've heard people say cleaning the original 72 pin is more ideal, but if you have to keep cleaning it overtime, why not get a new one? Plus, I've found "polished 72 pin" consoles more expensive than ones with a new 72 pin in Ebay, so not sure if the extra price bump is worth it.

3. Buy new NES clone console that can play NES games and some NES games: Reasoning behind this is to remove the headache of him having to clean and maintain an old console/72 pin and the main "gift" would be the games I buy for him to collect. The new clone console would just give him something to play the games on. New clone consoles look to be 25-40 so that's also appealing and it would be new.

I don't know much about NES consoles so any help would be much appreciated! I've mostly been looking on ebay.

I have a problem since my ndsl won't charge and I don't know what tha broken part is called on the pic you can see one comment is knocked off

Hi there.

While fixing one of my game gear, the small ceramic 100uf capacitor (C4) was found to be ko.

As I don't have any ceramic replacement right now, can I just replace it with an electrolitic one (or course, taking into account the capacitance, tension, polarity, etc) ?

Thank you.

I need a new one but i am unsure which one to get. I see there are alot of different ones, and i dont know which ones are compatible and which ones are best. For reference i have a PS5 Disc Version bought in semptember 2021

Hi all, I'm having an issue I'm hoping someone may have seen before because I know I haven't. Basically I was refurbishing a DS Lite, which is nothing new as I do this frequently, but I noticed something odd about the console during testing. Basically after a few minutes, the screens would start to flicker and color would fade on both screens to the point that both screens are entirely white and cannot be seen easily. This would continue even after turning the console off and back on. The screens were fine to start with and this one does not have the PWM dials on under the battery. But even if it did, I don't think it would help given the screens both start off fine and only face/flicker after several minutes of being on. What makes it weirder is that it happens to both screens simultaneously. Has anyone else ever seen this before or know what the issue is?

Right side has a blue tint to it. I assume it’s an lcd problem and a swap would fix it but before I do wanted to make sure it isn’t anything else

My DSi doesn’t turn on or charge.

Whenever I plug in the charger the orange LED will quickly blink on and off.

Everything (but the SD card cable) is connected and seems fine so is there something I’m missing?

One of my Joycon remote won’t hold charge. It will turn on when docked on the external charger. The charging light will turn red for 5 seconds before turning green, which means fully charged. The switch will show the remote with low battery and it’ll turn off once removed from the dock.

Is it just a bad battery?

So I recently plugged my old Playststion 2 in after months of not using it and this is the screen that has come up. I’m not sure the issue here. Any help or insight would be appreciated.

The ribbon cable for the contacts are impossible stuck in the bracket on this controller like it’s glued or soldered in? Should I heat it up and pull it out or would I have to replaces the entire bracket? There’s no clip it should just come out

Good day. Does anyone know the part number for this component? Its on a ps4 controller jdm 040 model. It is located near the connection where the charging port ribbon cable plugs in. Thanks.

Good day. Can a PS4 encoder MN86471A replace a MN864729? I have an original PS4 that has a bad encoder. However, i only have the 1A encoder. Can this replace the 29 encoder on a SAME original PS4? OR, has to be the same series encoder? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

The ps4 was given to my step dad and it had flickering red dots all over it and it turns off every minute need help

I got two switches in the mail, and one had blue screen the other just needs new side rails. While troubleshooting the blue screen I had the genius Idead to first, swap board and make sure it was not the screens fault. Nope not the screen.

Then I had the dumb idea of swapping the emmc with eachother. Made the blue screen go away but shuts off instantly. I go do some reading and find out emmc's are specific to the console. No harm, swaps back. Blue screen still blue screening. But now.... Other switch doesn't turn on at all.

It had low battery so I am hoping I just need to charge it for a long time. Yes I am an idiot. I should not have played mad scientist.

I have a gbc that needs a new speaker. Can I replace it with one from a ds lite?