I have a 1/2 inch spigot, but it feels like most parts are designed for 3/4: ABV, pressure regulators, and the outlet to the drip irrigators. Is there any issues with this? It'll fit right?

I haven't started our sprinkler system in our new home yet. This setup is different from my last home, so I wanted to ask: what's the proper way to start up / energize this system?

I had a company winterize the sprinklers last fall, but wanted to see if I can start up myself.

I've attached photos inside of irrigation control boxes. Appreciate any instructions or tips!

EDIT: Add more photos and updated with numbers for location.

https://preview.redd.it/qimsgwssoatc1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=206037d6065006228e5b3675be2939543afd467b

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I’m designing a rain tank-fed drip irrigation system for my yard. The tank will not be elevated, so it’d need a pump.

Would the correct set up be tank —> pump —> back flow preventer —> filter —> pressure regulator —> 1/2” mainline —> 1/4” drip line?

Let me know if my order / list is incorrect. Thanks!

Hi All,

https://imgur.com/a/qzU9e7K

I'm a rookie when it comes to irrigation but like to DIY for the enjoyment and cost-savings. I recently found a rubber supply line that the previous owners left pretty close to the surface of the back yard. There is a cut in it and it leaks when I turn that particular zone on.

Does anyone have guidance on fixing this? Note that it is not a poly line, it's a rubberized line.

Thanks in advance!

So two of my three zones have died in the last two days, and it's happened after I manually shut them off at the timer before the timer itself expires. When I've tried to put them back on, everything on the timer looks like its working (the Zone is correct, the timer is right, etc.), but no water will start to flow and the heads won't come up (due to no water). I can manually turn them on at the box outside, and that works fine. Any thoughts on how to fix this myself so I don't have to call someone?

I have valve that T’s off the main the in the front yard to feed 2 sprinkler anti-siphon valves in the front yard. After feeding those valves the 1” pipe then continues to the backyard to feed a spigot I just installed. The pipe runs higher in elevation toward the backyard. After I installed the spigot, I noticed that one of my anti-siphon valves in the front was leaking. Is this due to the line being high in elevation and causing some sort of back pressure?

I have a 29 zone system over about 2.2 acres. Running a mix of hunter I20’s and MP rotators. Three zones of drip. Tall fescue yard. looking to add some form of a fertigation system. The only prevalent brand around is Ezflo and they’re only on tiny yards. Anyone have experience with fertigation on a yard this size or other advice?

Hi!We are redoing some pavers and hardscaping in our yard and adding a small grass area. The hardscape guy suggested we run some irrigation piping where he's working while he's already there. This area is a bit further from the house and does not have a water supply yet, so I don't want to go down the rabbit hold of what to use for where, or make a big project out of something I might not use.

What pipe should I run - it seems people use mostly Schedule 40 PVC or Poly (Or Pex?), but don't know what's best here?

We are in Southern NY State, so it does get below freezing in the winter, but not by a lot.

What would recommend to use for "Prewiring" an area for a possible future sprinkler system?

(I might run a single hose from the house to there and put a smart controller on the end, if I can't dig a water line under my driveway to this area easily)

Thanks in advance!

Rained quite a bit the last week. Thank you

I have a Rainbird sprinkler system and when I tested the zones today, none of them turn on. I tried close and open the backflow valves and they worked (all the zones work). However, after about an hour, I tested the zones again and none worked. I tried turning the backflow valves off and on but it didn't do anything. I tried to turn the solenoid valves and don't see any water coming out. What could be the problems? I tested the backflow and there is water running through it and the micrometer is not running while the backflow valves are open (so there's no leak from the backflow to the valves).

Update: I figured out the issue. I found the master valve and turned the solenoid on the master valve and the system has water now. I think I'll keep it on for now while trying to figure out how to fix it. It was working earlier without turning the solenoid so probably bad wire connection between the controller and the valve? Any tips to troubleshoot it?

How do you wire this rain sensor to a Rachio 3? The 24V AC went directly to the power outlet and the two rain sensor terminals are wired together.

Water is coming out of the valve when I opened the main irrigation valve. But I'm not getting anything when turning on the Hunter irrigation. Does all the valves look opened? What else could be causing this?

I am trying to figure my backflow preventer out, which is required by law in my city between the water meter and the house. It seems per my annual inspection report each March that one or both valves are closed on it every time. But my house water works fine. I never looked at this device before, but it seems that if one side is closed, water is not flowing? If that is the case, I suspect it is only in line with the irrigation system and the lawn service is using that to turn off water to the irrigations system during the winter. Is this what the closed valve(s) mean on the backflow preventer?

It's a Febco 850 1" backflow preventer. It sits in a box just closer to the house than the main water meter at the sidewalk. 2 control boxes for irrigation sit farther up towards the house. There is no other backflow prevention I can see relating to anything, like anywhere around the foundation or in the crawlspace.

The control valves are Rainbird 100-DV.

https://preview.redd.it/9juqhv0vy2tc1.png?width=1250&format=png&auto=webp&s=3c488610ea3c6e4ed5b81d1b1d0f4190178c8096

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I have 4 zones and I believe they are all Rainbird. They are connected serially. So zone 1 is working perfectly and water pressure is good and all sprinkler heads are coming up. But zone 2 has low water pressure and so for zone 3 and zone 4 because they are all connected serially right?

So I unscrew the bleed screw all the way and released water on zone 2 which I believe is the root of the problem. When I unscrew the bleed screw on Zone 1, a stream of water shoots up 3 inches maybe. But when I unscrew the bleed screw on Zone 2, water is coming from the hole weakly.

When I unscrew the bleed screw on Zone 2, unlike on Zone 1, the sprinkler heads are not going up and still weak water pressure. So does that mean something is stuck in zone 2 pipe system?

How do I get rid of the debris?

So Ive recently started working at a golf course as an Construction/irrigation Greenkeeper in Germany and im working with the Course manager and the Agronomist and we are wanting to map our Irrigation/drainage. with GPS so we know Where the pipes, Sprinklers, valves are with pretty good accuracy, We do have an irrigation map but its not very accurate and has a lot of issues(valve sizes arent listed, Valves are labeled wrong, etc). My original idea was to just get accurate GPS locations with my phone, and then just uploading it over Google maps. But any suggestions are welcome!

Hi all, I have rain bird systems and I have a section in a seven section system that will not turn on with the control box, the valves are 100-DV’s. I have checked power I have 28 volts at the control box and 28 volts at the valve. The solenoid is new and ohms out at 42 ohms. I have replaced the diaphragm with a replacement from rain bird. I took the components diaphragm, bonnet and solenoid from the non working section and swapped it with a working section, it worked just fine on the section that was already working, the components from the section that was working would not work on the non working section. Completely out of ideas. I even spoke to rain bird customer service and it has them stumped as well. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Zone 1 kept turning on whenever any other zone was running.

Figured the controller might be fried so I replaced it but problem persisted.

Changed the solenoid to zone 1 and problem was resolved but then another zone started to turn on whenever any other zone was running.

Replaced zone 2 solenoid and it fixed it but now ANOTHER zone activates!

Does anyone have any advice?

I am trying to dewinterize sprinkler system and I cannot get my supply valve to turn. We have the key but cannot get it budge. It doesn’t help that it’s 4 feet underground. Any tips?

I need to replace my StaRite jet pump. Any recommendations for the best brand/model for shallow well? Looking at StaRite again, also Goulds, Red Lion, Grundfos.

For whoever is taking the irrigation exam the 6 hour one. Just study. The test is easy for back flow and general questions. BUT study study hydraulics and design. Design is kinda easy. But hydraulics is hard

Hi. I am installing a sprinkler system in my backyard. Wondering how I should plumb everything. I made an example online real quick. Is there any reason to hook the piping up the way in the 1st picture I attached? Or can I run 1" pipe and do everything inline like the 2nd picture? Would be a lot easier for me. less digging.

Thank you have a great day.

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Pictures for reference: https://imgur.com/a/976HeUW

I have this problem every year. I'd love to solve it once and for all.

Every fall the guy that does my gutters winterizes my sprinkler system. He blows out the lines and leaves some valves open.

When I come back to it in spring and I open the valve with the red handle you see in one of my pictures (inside the house), water flows from the sprinklers non-stop.

Every year I've had to call him to come back and do something that takes 5 minutes and it works again.

To me, "works again" means my control box can be in Run mode, I'll open the valve and nothing will happen. Because my sprinklers are programmed to turn on for 20 minutes a day at like 6AM.

I'm trying to open them now at like, 2PM with the control box in Run and the water just flows and flows.

The second picture shows what's under a little green hatch on the outside of my house. My sprinkler system has two zones. Each of these little guys has an on and off position. I've messed with it but no matter what they're on the water just flows and flows.

I feel like I'm missing something extremely simple. The control box works and is programmed, it's in Run mode. It should prevent water from coming out except for 20 minutes in the morning. But when I turn the red handle, water just flows forever. Anyone know what I have to do? Is it the yellow valves outside that need to be turned?

Anyone else in the Denver area turning on yet? I want to call all my customers And schedule them all for this week

I have two sprinkler controllers, one in the garage and one in the house. I want to remove the one in the house and run the wires to the one in the garage. The valves that I need to rewire are outside, on the other side of the wall where the controller is in the house, and they're surrounded by concrete. Also, there is no attic space in the room with the controller. What are my options?

I was thinking of putting a junction box outside by the valves and running the wire along the eaves of the house to get to the garage. If I were to run the wires in a conduit on the floor along the house, it would need to cross a walkway.

Any suggestions or insight will be much appreciated!

Rental house I have, previous renter disconnected system-I believe the red and black wires that are hanging out are maybe supposed to be in “common” and “master valve”? But which color where?