My drip line is rated 150-350Kpa.

Should I be testing the offtake pressure before my valves with them shut or ensuring with the system operaring the pressure after the valves does not exceed 350kpa?

I have a pop up sprinkler next to the side of my house that is leaking in the down position. How do I get it to pop up so I can check out the sprinkler head?

It is sourcing for a valve control box from the left side and is an adapter for irrigation tubing that now has a hole in it to the right.

Haven’t been able to find online what kind of adapter it is. Looks like it has recessed holes for screws

There is small part of a garden I need to design an irrigation for. The area is trapezoid, see the sizes on the screenshot attached. It is not allowed to have water anywhere outside of the trapezoid do to pavements and other stuff. I'm thinking about using Hunter 2.1bar spray heads along the longer sides of the trapezoid (only one side is drawn, but the other would be pretty much the same) and I will dial down the original 2.4m radius progressively as I go closer and closer to the top of the area.

The concern I have as a beginner in designing irrigation systems is that I can't do sprinkler-sprinkler coverage. The gaps between the spinkler and the wetting region of the following sprinkler is about 30cm each. Also I dont know if dialing down the radius would dial down the water consumption. If not then the upper regions would have more water as the radius' decrease.

Units are in meters. The surface is completely flat and will be covered by lawn. No wind should be considered.

Please advise.

https://preview.redd.it/md0xt34efa5e1.png?width=508&format=png&auto=webp&s=65213da63bd951118b8f976d2ff143a16a6413ee

Hi Irrigation enthusiasts !

My first post here, since I’m only starting my journey in this deep rabbit hole that is automated irrigation 😜

To provide you with some context, I’m growing a garden in northeastern Thailand, and as part of the garden transformation, I’m now starting to dig trenches to have automated irrigation. This will be both for lawn (+10k ft) as well as flower beds and trees.

My challenge is the following: integrating this project to a solar pump system, which gets water from a large pond. The solar pump is coupled with a battery and a charge controller, in order to be able to water before sun rises. But I’m not 100% sure it’s realizable with an automatic controller such as Hunter X2…

Simply put, I’d like to know if there is a way to switch the centrifugal pump on and off in concordance with my controller timings?

The simplest I thought of for now is to have a timed breaker which would switch the pump on, only after the solenoid valves have been switched on. Only tedious part is to manually make sure switching times are 100% accurate with sprinkler timer.

This morning I was searching other ways and I found that you could instal a pump relay directly providing current to the pump and making the switch with the controller, Is there a way to make this work with a 72 VDC operated solar pump?

In advance thanks for your valuable inputs, Cheers

DIY project installing an irrigation system that I'm told can be damaged at pressures greater than 80psi. I am on city water where the current pressure measures right at 80psi so I'm thinking it would be good to install a PRV and set to close to 80psi to avoid any issues from potential surges (no idea how often or if this occurs).

Do you have any suggestions on a PRV that can be set to approximately 80 psi?

I moved into a new home and the previous owners have 1" sprinkler valves that need replacing, they leak.

I am going to move to all drip irrigation so I don't think flow is really a concern. Do you see any issue in using a reducer to attach a 3/4 valve instead?

• Hunter's 3/4 is cheaper than 1"

• I can get the 3/4" faster than the 1"

• I will eventually add on their Accu Sync pressure regulator for the valve

Thoughts? Also, any issues installing a Hunter filter right after the outlet of the valve?

Please forgive me for my youth and inexperience. I have been put in charge of my churches facilities. They know I am learning everything on the go. For the most part it has been fine. But I cannot figure why this elbow is leaking water whilst the pump is active. My understanding is that it is a relief spout. However in the last two years it never leaked before. Thank you for any insight.

Rainbird scrubber valve with the inline filter

There is a T joint made of PVC that connects to a drip irrigation hose at one end. There’s a coupler attached. There is a leak at the joint between the PVC and the hose. I need to know what’s name so I can figure out what to buy at the store. Also, any advice on where I should cut the PVC?

Hi,

Assume that I have a zone with 9 sprinklers as it is shown in the picture (warning: done in paint!). The red lines represent the pipes of the given zone, the black dots are the sprinkler heads. In this case does it make sense to connect the end of the lines as it shows by the blue line?
This doesn't make too much of a sense to me (especially if the pipes carry the same amount of water) but a guy who built hundreds of irrigation systems told me that this is the way. I guess it can't hurt, but does it have any benefit?

Thanks, and sorry about the image quality :)

https://preview.redd.it/novrqb1zkz4e1.png?width=285&format=png&auto=webp&s=0cb335020ad5e8792bf31e98ea4810ef8334ff80

Looking for first hand accounts on people here that offer Air lifting for irrigation wells.Aka for Cleaning debris out of the ports for better flow as its just trickling out of the weep holes. Looking for more info about it. Maybe even do it myself by renting a compressor. The amount of info on the internet isn't much or maybe im just not finding it. Almost makes me feel like maybe its part scam as id imagine if it worked well more people would be doing it.

Edit Well is 89ft. Water table sits at 32ft. Pump runs for 6min before water gets to bottom of well.

Trying to shut off water but the lever slipped past the lock point and it's stuck open.

Hi all! I’ll be sitting for the cic exam in NJ within the next month or so and I was looking to see if anyone has experience with this exam and has any tips/advice to better prepare myself. I did buy the practice exam (which I haven’t taken yet) and a couple books that should be arriving soon. I do have 10 years experience out in the field, but from what I’ve seen so far with all the equations I need to know I’m just a little overwhelmed on what to expect. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

So, after my disaster earlier this spring....See post history. (Mama bear with young kids and water to house shut off for hours.)

I decided to pay someone to winterize my irrigation system. For $60, he blew out the lines. I know he checked the backup preventer because he mentioned, we still hadn't gotten the valves in the right position.

However, and few days after he left, I noticed the backup preventer was still in its place.

Is this okay? We do live in an area with pretty cold temps. I'd say average for this time of year is mid 30s F, during the day and the teens at night, but if theres a cold snap, which happens rarely, it could get as bad as -15 F

It's a heavy metal unit, but the O rings are rubber. I remember when we bought the house, and the builder winterized it for us last year and 'taught' me, he said to remove the backup preventer and stow it in the sprinkler box since it's a few inches under the ground and won't freeze.

I remember on my last post, someone said pros occasionally remove the backup preventer. Which would suggest maybe it's okay to leave it.

It's really easy to remove, but I don't want to risk messing the valves again. However, it's an expensive piece... I also don't want it to crack in the cold and if it does need to come out, I'm a little miffed that for $60, he couldn't bother to pop it out and stow it.

Thanks in advance, as always, the peeps here are SO helpful and great!!

Hi,

I'm browsing a Hunter product catalog and found the eco rotator next to the MP rotator. I tried to figure out the differences, but I really couldnt. For example the capabilities of the ECO-04 MP2000 and the standard MP2000 looks the same to me. The pressure, radius, flow rate are match completely.

Thanks.

My old irrigation system stopped working a while ago and I only noticed when lawn started turning brown so not sure when it stopped working!

I called a guy who came and look into it, said that pump and filter needs to change, asked 2.6k for it..

So I decided to diy.. Got a replacement pump same specs 1.5hp, 230V and a filter. All seem to work well but pump does not suction! Yes i did prime and prime doesn't go anywhere or no necessity of the refill.

I got some experiment through the filter and pressured water in pipe with hose.. Pump suction through the hose and irrigation worked.. It just doesn't seem to be able to suction water from the well..

I did order check valve to change that too but I refused the belive that will fix the problem.

I do live in swfl so I don't think well drying is an option.. Any idea guys?

Setting cross connections and plumbing code violations aside let's talk about what to do in this situation.

After winterization we leave the blow out port open, some systems have a bleeder screw at the bottom instead, it doesn't matter.

All mechanical devices fail eventually, a shutoff valve is no different. Eventually your ball valve or gate valve will fail and that water will go somewhere. By leaving this spigot or bleeder screw open that water is allowed to exit the system. If that water got into the backflow or other parts of the irrigation system it would freeze and potentially cause trouble.

If you see your blow out port or drain plug leaking DO NOT CLOSE IT! It is doing its job protecting your irrigation system. Call your irrigation company or a plumber and they will get your fixed up. The leak means you need a new shutoff valve and it should be done sooner than later with the temperatures dropping like they are.

Too often homeowners will see the leak and close the spigot or drain plug and they will have to pay for a second winterization. Make everyone's life easier, save yourself some money and embarrassment, talk to your pro if you see this.