The water spigot in my front yard has this white plastic thing on top that bubbles out when the water is on. It has a metal cap (pictured in my hand) that fits on but doesn’t stop the water from coming out.

What is it? It’s bigger than standard hose diameter

This is the back flow preventer for my sprinkler system...as you can see, both ball valve handles have deteriorated & I need to replace them. I dug the dirt out from around all this and rinsed it off. (Hints the standing water) my question is, does the water flow from left to right? Can anyone point me in the direction to a quality replacement valve for these? Do they appear to be 3/4" or 1"? Thanks all!

Need to replace the left (black) hose of this T junction off the irrigation main. I have the replacement hose and compression ring (fitting?) but it looks like it might have been glued on by the landscaper. How can I go about this without damaging the T-junction?

Complete noob to irrigation; any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Hi Folks! first time here, I'm replacing my well pump and I need help recreating a portion of the current pipes setup, specifically the part where the hose for the anti-rust system connects to the pipes, see attached picture. Could someone please help me identidy the three parts shown on the photo? I think the T is this PVC reducer T 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 threaded then there is a nut that threas on the T's tip, what is that, do I need it? I couldn;t find it anywhere, and finally there is what I think is a perma-loc threads adapter

I couldn't find anything similar on my big orange hardware store. only online.

Thank you all.

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I recently moved into a home with a sprinkler system. After going back and forth with the company the previous owners used and ~$1500.00 later, only about 4 of the 9 zones are actually reliably turning on when I trigger them. I installed the Rachio 3 controller as the last one was 27 years old and kept blowing fuses. I have no idea how to troubleshoot sprinkler systems. Any pointers in the right direction?

I need to replace this old relay (discontinued) on my irrigation system and I don't know what to choose as a replacement. Local stores aren't much help either. Anyone have experience or recommendations on this?

Hi,

My yard is 62'x39'. I've been wanting to install sprinklers for a while but I'm not sure which ones to use or where or how far apart to put them. We use a pump and ditch water. Thank you for any suggestions.

I have a Rainbird ESP-ME3 controller that is connected to my sprinkler system. It keeps losing the time so my sprinklers go off at strange times. I use the app to reset the time but after I set it, when I come back its always an off, seems to be running slow. I have not had any power outages but I did change the 9V battery on the unit. Anyone else have that issue? Thank You!

Best way to replace this ball valve ideas? Not much room between tee and valve once I cut it out.

Hey all,

We bought a new house in the spring and managed to get the installed Rain Bird system up and running. Thankfully, we only had to change out 1 head and solenoid!

Everything appeared to be working great until I fertilized and fried a few areas of lawn, even though I felt it was watered in sufficiently. Turns out, the installer/previous owner just used all Rain Bird 5000s with the same nozzle/flow rate (1.5). That seems to be why the fence lines and corners are getting a 1/2 in of water every 30 mins, and the areas around the 360 rotary nozzles are getting practically zero.

I want to fix this, but diving deeper into the irrigation wormhole has left me with a couple questions.

• How can I measure the PSI/GPM the system and zones can support? Is it simply just swapping in higher rate nozzles and see if the system can take it? Then just slowly reduce them until it looks okay?

• Is mixing rotary and fixed spray heads is a no-no? I have one zone that terminates in a small area with only about 10’ of space between side of the house and a fence.. but there are two RB 5000s absolutely peppering the side of the house every time that zone runs. I was going to swap out for a shorter throw head/body, but I haven’t found a rotary head with a short enough throw, so I was considering a couple fixed spray heads...

Thanks!

After noticing the valve box was flooding in my new yard we dug it up and noticed water spraying out of where valve 1 connects to the white pipe on the left. We are replacing the valve just in case, but we think the problem might be that the line from valve 2 was crossed over and putting downward pressure on the line from 1. I have no clue how the previous owners originally set this up but it seems that switching them would be much smarter. Are there any potential problems or considerations I should know about?

Hi, pump is fed from lake out back. I checked the inlet (in the water) and it seems fine. When I hook up the hose to prime I can get it to start for about 5 seconds and pump runs dry. Every 30 or so tries it will actually prime and spray out of the bib but when I switch it to go to the sprinklers it dies immediately. It ran fine for five years. Replaced the pump last year and it ran fine. I've tried four different times now and can't get it to start. Any ideas how I might find a leak on the input side if there is one (or if that's actually the problem)?

Ps. No work has been done in the yard or around the pump.

Calling all irrigation nerds...I'm trying to better understand how a new system I had installed works, and if it's even working correctly.

Hose bib just before backflow hits 65psi at just under 12gpm. All 3 other spigots are 75psi at about 10.5-11gpm I've got 6 zones total. One zone has 7 Rain Bird 5000s with 3.0 nozzles. I know for a fact that's wrong and can tell just by looking at the water something is wrong as the rain curtain is basically non existent. I've talked to the irrigation company and they've already said that zone can be split into 2 very easily. Based on the technical data those 5000s need 26.46gpm - so how was that overlooked? That's nearly double what those heads are spec'd to.

I don't know if I'm just missing something or if I don't truly understand how these systems work. Numbers are numbers to me, so l feel that l'm close. But other zones seem fine (in my very limited experience) but they're still over that 12gpm flow rate and are pulling 13-14gpm.

EDIT: TLDR is this normal for all the heads on a zone to require a higher GPM than you're actually producing?

Has someone tried to build irrigation into the house during the remodel?

I'm thinking of remodeling my home. Somehow, I had the idea of having small outlets in the house connected to solenoids or electric ball valves. Wall outlets need to be nice solid fittings with normal copper inside the wall (like any other water).

This would allow to tap irrigation water in different places in the house for plants. I get that general water and in the house don't go well together, but at the same time, is there a reason why it should not work?

This is just weird and I can't figure it out. Pretty good knowledge of irrigation but I'm stumped.

I have all 8 zone of my rainbird controller hooked up. It's been two years and operating just perfect. Until 3 days ago. When my veggie garden zone 8 turns on now, zone 6 automatically turns on with it.

I've tried hard reset, re hooking up wires. I even unhooked the wire at the controller and STILL both zones turned on. But I confirm I only turned zone 8 on. I ended up cutting both ends of the wire so I can still irrigate my veggie garden.

Question is, has anyone ever had two zones randomly turn on when only one zone was selected? I can confirm the wiring was accurately hooked up.

We recently moved into a house with a sprinkler system. When I turned the system on this summer, I initially had no issues. After about a week, I noticed water was pulsing out of the backflow preventer, and obviously, no water was making it to our sprinkler system.

After failing to find the fix on YouTube, we called an irrigation company. They came out and noticed that a gate valve in the basement was just turning both directions with no change to pressure. The assumption at that time is that the broken valve was preventing the backflow preventer from sealing due to low pressure. They left with no charges and said call a plumber. So, we got the city out, shut off the water, and had a plumber replace that.

The plumber left today stating there was good PSI coming off the hose off the backflow preventer (see photo).

When I tested it today, I’m in the exact same situation (minus a few hundred dollars).

I can manipulate the valves to seal the backflow preventer and then get very minimal pressure to the sprinkler system. What I don’t understand is how I’m not even getting pressure to the sprinklers when I do that after the valve was replaced.

What do y’all think? Is the backflow preventer actually bad or there somewhere else the system is losing pressure?

I greatly appreciate any advice on what the next steps could be. I’ve been fighting this for over a month. Maybe I belong in a condo!