I'm wondering if anyone here has started a successful irrigation Design/Consultant business.

Im a licensed irrigator and can put my stamp on designs. I'm considering starting an Irrigation Design company.

I just wanted to ask others who have done this how did you get started, and what you would do differently if you had to start from scratch?

I have an Orbit 28568 12-station timer. Everything was fine. However, suddenly, one of my zones came on off schedule (several hours off schedule) and then turned off normally. Then the same night, another zone came on off schedule and stayed on for SEVERAL HOURS (when it was programmed to only stay on for several minutes).

This all suddenly happened without any changes. The unit also didn’t lose power as far as I can tell.

My gardener says the valves are old and need to be replaced (quoted $135 per valve, 3 valves, brass above aground anti siphon). But wanted to double check that this sounds right? Considering that the sprinklers came on OFF schedule.

Also, is the cost for the valve replacements high?

Recently changed lawn size and capped 2 sprinkler heads that no longer were within the lawn. Checked before I dug them up and sprinklers worked, checked after digging up and sprinklers worked, checked after calling and sprinklers worked. After filling the wholes and level the dirt I go to check one last time and the sprinklers aren’t popping up. I dig up both caps, unscrew one at a time, and so over extremely low pressure. Both sprinklers I replaced are the end of their line and I did not hit the elbows or pipe to them and do not see a leak. I checked the solenoid and it is engaging when using the controller so that’s working. I then manually turned the solenoid on and compared it to the other zone I have. The pressure through it is extremely low even manually. Is this just a bad valve? Coincidence that it broke same time as I capped the heads?

I currently have a Hunter Pro-C that was installed by the builder. Have 9 zones, looking for some opinions on if I should just upgrade the Faceplace to the HPC-FP or should I get another system such as a Rachio or Rainbird.

Looks like for the HPC-FP I need to buy it through a dealer or 3rd party sellers online example

Any advice is appreciated!

Don't wipe out all the names of zones, programs or reports when you force an app upgrade.

JFC they are bad that their jobs. They optimize for Netscape.

The city we live in turned off the irrigation water without notifying us and my sprinklers ran through a whole cycle with no water, what are the chances my system is fried?

I tried using Rain Bird's NPT-to-half-inch barbed connectors, but more than half of them leaked on the threaded end. This is with PTFE tape, and as much torque as I felt safe putting through ABS plastic. Also... they don't leak THROUGH the threads, but through the gap above, where the threaded part swivels around the main body of the adapter.

Also, they seem pointlessly long. Makes it more awkward to use them.

Before I got the Rain Bird connectors, I used brass NPT to 5/8" barbed fittings, with the tubing hot-aired on, and secured with a clamp. (This is downstream of a 30PSI regulator, so I didn't bother with a second clamp.) They don't leak at all, and I didn't have to put 800 foot-pounds of torque into tightening them either.

Unfortunately, I don't have enough brass fittings to replace the not-so-good Rain Bird adapters, and Home Depot is taking weeks to deliver the ones I ordered. Was wondering what you all would use to go from NPT to "half-inch" (0.71) poly.

Anyone in the industry can fix valves, sprinklers. In your opinion how does someone go above that and is actually an irrigation tech?

I get excited when I see this and just think money!

Starting this week, trying to run a station or program manually or testing all stations no longer works. When I look at the screen, it looks like the system thinks it's running but I don't see anything running. Auto scheduling still works fine. Makes no sense to me. It's a 2-wire system with decoders. Any ideas?

Adding photo of one of our valve box placements for kicks

https://preview.redd.it/4y4gkgylqald1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ba61ae5167f54318a7a9198847abb1996be39101

Can anyone identify the type of insert tee this is? I am experiencing some high pressure leaks that are eroding my soil. I am also not familiar with the black rings with the plastic “legs”. Any help would be appreciated.

I have a large berm with about 25 trees & bushes on drip (mostly circles of drip tubing with 3-4 built in emitters).

It’s fed by a 1” pvc that runs from about 30 feet from the valve, makes a left turn then goes 60 feet UP the side of that 10’ berm, where it connects to a 30 psi pressure reducer and connects to the 1/2” poly, heading back DOWN the berm, feeding the drip emitters along the way down.

While adding some zone lines I realized I could gain a zone by instead connecting to my pressure reducer at the terminal end of the 1/2 poly at the BOTTOM of the 60 foot berm, and sending the water UP, ending at the TOP of the berm.

Question: does it make any difference between:

1. sending full pressure (80 psi) in PVC UP the berm, reducing to 30 PSI, then DOWN the 1/2” poly to all the emitters, versus

2. sending 30 psi in 1/2” poly UP the berm, connecting to the emitters as I go up?

I’m going to be putting in a proposal for a residential condominium property. How do you guys come up with your prices for monthly wet checks ? No service or repair just running through the zones for inspection.

Going to be adding sprinklers soon. There are a couple of boxes after the meter, one is a ball valve and then this piece. Anyone know what this is?

I have a rainbird system in my yard with 3 zones for the grass and one for plants. The system has worked just fine until recently. I had the installer come out and move a head about 3 weeks ago, and around the same time had my well sanitized. Ever since then when the sprinklers turn on zone 1 will work just fine, however when it goes to switch to zone 2 the water starts to come out of the backflow preventer. I can run those zones individually without issue, anybody have any ideas?

Hi and greetings from Spain!

I want to install drip irrigation to garden beds that are between 52 and 62 cm (20-24 inches) in width.

I'm debating between two solutions (in both cases I'm planning to have two parallel pipe lines on the bed)

1. 16mm drip irrigation pipe with 4l/h (~1gal/h) drip emitters every 30cm (11 inches)
2. 6mm drip irrigation pipe with 2l/h drip emitters every 15cm

Number 1 is cheaper but it is also bulkier. I don't know if putting two 16mm lines will be too much in terms of aesthetics.

With number 2 I would have to run a parallel 16mm line (already installed, I would move it to the side so it is not seen from above) to feed the 6mm lines since I don't think I will be able to go the whole way (10m or ~32ft times two) with the 6mm line. This solution will also create a more uniform irrigation.

BTW number 1 is 8,75€/82ft and number 2 is 19€/50ft

(See comment for photos)

I recently bought a house and it came with an irrigation system for the front and back yard (4 zones, 2 front and 2 back yard zones). From what I can tell, it's all Rainbird equipment from the control panel to the sprinklers. There is a manual for the control panel, but that's about it as far as information on the system.

What are some good resources to learn about how to take care of this system? I'll likely convert some zones into drip irrigation once flower beds are installed, is that an easy conversion from sprinklers to drip? What sort of maintenance should I be doing? Is there any winterizing necessary? Are there any specialized equipment or tools that are helpful to own?

Any insights would be helpful.

I need to put a valve box sideways but doing that means the holes for the pipe to come in and out of is not going to be used. Do I need to cut new holes into the valve box myself or can I skip the holes and let it rest on top of the pvc pipes and backfilling with a little gravel so no dirt gets in through the bottom.

Drawing to give an idea of what I mean. Orange parts are holes I may cut, but I don’t want to if I don’t have to. With the valve box sideways, the holes that come with the box are perpendicular to the pipes. Ignore the crack in the pipe I have already fixed that, it’s an old pic.

https://preview.redd.it/3b0la4hxr7ld1.jpg?width=924&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=329af0bf6a0e9496ab3dcbf36b06b9768cfcb514

Looking for advice on what number to use to plan my irrigation system. Residential, but share water rights to an irrigation ditch running near the front of the property. Last homeowners put in a long above ground PVC pipe with a few 5/8" outlets along the property line and its all manual and it's annoying.

Current pump: Munro 2HP 2" suction, 1.5" discharge

I did a bucket test for GPM with one of the 5/8" valves open and got 18.75GPM, same test with three 5/8" valves open I got 37.5GPM. I have a feeling I should just use the supplied pump curve to plan this and ignore these two values I measure with the 5/8" valves. Is this correct?

Pretty sure it needs a new diaphragm anyone recognize the make and model?

I’m a homeowner with a 10 zone Hunter Pro-C station. I have noticed this past week that when it’s cycling through the zones, it will get stuck on one and not progress. For example, the other day it got stuck on zone 5 and stayed on that zone running until I manually turned it off. The other night it got stuck on zone eight and stayed there running and not going to next zone. Any advice or suggestions? Thanks in advance!