I recently bought a bully dog tuner for a 2010 6.4 power stroke (to delete the DPF). I cant seem to find a way to download a tune for the DPF delete.

Hey all! Just looking for some honest advice here. I am getting into disaster relief work long term. This will entail all you’d imagine… towing trailers with building materials and/or debris. Refilling and hauling 500-1000gallon water containers, getting cars out of sticky spots, potentially pulling a gooseneck RV (family to come along with me), etc etc.

Im looking at a GMC 2500 (we’re a GM family). I personally don’t think I need more than a 2500, but welcome to advice on that.

With that - the 2500 comes in both gas and diesel options, so I was wondering if the diesel engine would have more benefits than gas? Or is gas the better choice?

I know this post is already long, but if you’re still reading (thank you), another consideration is the potential struggle to get diesel in heavily hit areas.

I appreciate any advice or help!

Alright folks. At wits end with this one.

Got a 2004 Ram 3500 with a parasitic draw somewhere. We've removed every fuse, removable accessory, and the alternator. Still drawing 1.16A.

Only thing we did to remove was the trailer brake controller, but it's fused.

Any ideas?

Looking to save money here, low soot and ash on this after treatment, truck is never idled. So that being said it does have leaks around the DOC. Can I opt out and take it to a shop and have them weld it shut?

The steering column is blocking my 30mm socket. Any tips for removal? I have successfully replaced all the others.

I just didn’t feel like climbing under there anymore…

Hi, I currently have a 7.3 powerstroke that I’ve tried to make it stop leaking oil but I think I just have to live with it like that. My truck is a welding truck and some places I take it to I really don’t want it to leak oil because it could get me kicked off the job. Which diesel engine would be the least likely to have an oil leak?

How does a 2005 Freightliner with a 388 Mercedes compare to a 1998-2003 Ford E350/E450 with a 7.3 Powerstroke? https://www.govdeals.com/asset/246/590

EDIT: I prioritize reliability & economy over horsepower. I've heard less horsepower & bigger displacements (Like 7.3 I6) are more reliable but I really don't like Mercedes.

I have a Fiat Ducato 100 multijet from 2008. It's a 2L 100ps engine. 2 years ago (only runs 15.000km in this time) the engine got a complete overhaul, nearly everything new. Now I have severe problems with power, oil leak at the injectors and few more. While i am disabling the engine the injectors could be pulled by hand. I just grabbed that little thing, slight movement to left an right and whoopa, just pulled an injector by hand in 5 seconds. All of the 4 were out in 30 seconds. I'm not a professional but this doesn't feel right. Is this bad ?

This isn’t really about the engine, but the air drier on my truck had a little white smoke coming from where it’s spitting out .. first thing I’m thinking is to replace the cartridge.. anything else?

https://preview.redd.it/bcqlnisy8gge1.png?width=1783&format=png&auto=webp&s=f06402fe4a49259eb11740144ba7b34178869ab4

2005 F-250 6.0. I don't wanna to put much money into it will this coolant be fine?

Hey everyone, was looking for some advice. My friend has a 1984 c30 6.2 4 speed manual that he said he’d let go to me for $2500 it has a 6.2 Detroit Diesel in it but the head gaskets are blown. I found a 1993 6.5T Detroit Diesel with all the wiring and PMD for $500. Other than swapping it out if I do go ahead with this project is there anything else I should upgrade on the 6.5T? I was already looking into cooling system upgrade with aluminum radiator and dual thermostats, starter upgrade bracket, PMD relocated otherwise could I swap the mechanical pump off of the 6.2 on to the 6.5T? Also is there any other options for mods that will increase the longevity of the motor? Also what mods for better fuel mileage because that’s what I’ll mainly be using this rig for is towing, I heard with the right mods and set up these 6.5T can almost get 30 mpg empty, not sure if that’s true. Also is there anything else I should know about the swap?

This will be my first diesel truck and I will use it for heavy towing and a lot of driving, the miles sit at 170k, can anyone recommend me if I should look out for anything on these years, models? articles say the 2011-2014 models come with turbo issues and other problems, truck is for sale at 15k

2020 ram 2500. This was a few years back but this was hooking up my truck to the trailer.

Bought a one owner l5p with 230k miles as my first diesel, and I have zero doubt the truck was very well maintained. It had no chips in the paint, no tears or hardly any wear at all in the interior and could easily pass for a 50k mile truck any day. I even found some archoil hidden in the seat compartment so I know the original owner took care of it.

With that being said I plan to have and use this truck for as long as possible so I’d like to know if there are any actual advantages with deleting emissions systems or if it would be better not to touch it.

It has a bank tuner on it, 37 tires, cognition leveling kit, banks rear diff and different gear ratio (not sure the exact number but I know it isn’t stock) and 6480 engine hours.

Looking to buy a new/newer diesel dusky flatbed truck and gooseneck trailer to start my own hauling business with my dad . What modern engines are considered the best or most reliable?

THE RED Line is where I put the tee connecting the front two correct? The blue circle is where the NPT plug goes but mines bypassed already? And the purple im wondering if that gets hot cause the line would need to go on top of that or in front there’s no room. So I’m replacing the lines and such and I need a little guidance as I’m not a mechanic but do alright with videos and trying to learn more cause I’m poor please help if you can. I just have a few questions for their instructions they give I want to make sure I’m right before I dig in. My main questions are for the NPT PLUG in the first paragraph. I think mine is already bypassed it seems? Cause the hole next to the rubber fuel line has a plug. Also the make a rectangle part. So I connect the two far end injectors together and tee that to the soft line to the hard line and same with the front I connect the two and put the Tee facing upwards toward the soft line on the fuel filter correct? And lastly the check valve can I install that on the soft line at my mechanical fuel pump that connects to the hard line that seems to go under the truck to the tanks I presume. I know where everything is at just need a little more guidance please. Sorry if this is too much. I’ll put pic of truck injectors. INSTRUCTIONS BELOW To begin installation, start by removing the original return lines from the injectors and injection pump return. On most 7.3 fuel systems there will be line coming from the filter header going to the #1 injector return cap, remove the brass barb fitting from the filter head and the bypass ball and spring if not already rotten away and plug the port with the silver ⅛ npt plug included in the kit.

Next remove all eight injectors to replace the copper washers sealing the injectors to the cylinder head. For tips on this process, check out our tech article on the removal of IDI injectors, HERE. Always make sure the injector bores and seats are clean before reinstalling injectors. While the injectors are removed clean any carbon buildup from the injector bodies as well as the old injector o rings. Install the new o rings included in the kit and install the injectors.

With the copper washers replaced and injectors torqued to 45 ft lbs, cut the included return line hose into x6 4” sections to go between the injectors, and install hose clamps on either end of these hoses. Using the included o ring lube, lubricate and install the return line caps with the 90* elbow caps installed at each front and rear injector on the engine, and straight caps on the inside injectors. Install the 4” sections of hose between the caps and move the clamps onto the barb section to seal the connections at each cap.

Next run a long hose length between each of the corner caps, making a large rectangle with the fuel return lines, and cut this long side to side run at the front and rear of the engine for the brass Tees to be installed. The front tee will collect the return fuel from the injection pump, and the rear tee will join the sides together at the rear and plumb into the main factory return line going down the rear of the engine. With the return plumbed this way, the fuel pump will be putting full pressure to feeding the injection pump and the injection pump return will have multiple paths to easily flow return back to the tank for better priming and advance performance.

Included with the kit is the CDD check valve, this valve prevents fuel drainback and easier starting after the engine sits for longer periods. This valve can be installed in a multitude of locations, most common being in the soft hose between the frame rail and mechanical lift pump to hold fuel pressure in the fuel filter and injection pump. With an electric fuel pump upgrade it can be installed just upstream of the pump to keep that portion of the fuel system primed and under pressure.

I know there’s the debate of pre-filling oil filters, but does anybody have any opinions on pre-filling FASS or Airdog fuel filters?

We’ve owned a diesel ‘97 f350 7.3 power stroke dually for years but only used it for going to get hay, to the dump, etc. She has been an amazing truck but our next adventure may be too much for her older technology. We are heading on the road in a 35’ rv. I must admit we didn’t care for her like we should have however never gave us any trouble. But, hopefully the new owner, whoever that will be, will do right by her! I say that to highlight that we want to better maintain our new to us Ram. I’ve heard we should use an additive at every fill up. Archoil has been recommended. Also, I see they make a fuel system cleaner. Since this truck is a 2020, I want to start off on the right foot. What is the process you would go through with a used truck that will be towing a lot, upfront as well as maintenance? I’m not an auto person, be trying to learn. Thanks for your kind comments and suggestions.

So i just recently started having issues with my truck. Started throwing a injector 6 contribution balance code. No smoke/white haze on start up or low or heavy loads. We did a relative compression test and everything passed flying colors. We also checked the power balance and everything was good except for when the code was present. When clearing codes the power balance runs normally. We replaced the injector and the copper washer was knicked and blowing out and the orings were completely missing. Now 2 days later im getting a cylinder 7 contribution balance code. When we replaced injector we did the IQA code. I dont think we did the fuel trims or reset anything after replacement. So i reset my codes reset the trims high and low and so far no code. Should i be worried that its another injector going out or rocker arms on the exhaust side.

Old injector is attached. Everything below the 2nd oring was actually dirt instead of carbon and the injector has a brownish tinge to it. Anyone have these issues and should i be worried?

Truck has 239,000 miles 13000 engine hours 8000 idle

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