I'm new to diesels, but I plan on buying one in the next few weeks.

What are some years to avoid for any of the big three.

Without going too deep into things, my little sister just inherited a rolling first gen Ranger from our grandfather. Factory 5 speed FM146 4x4 but no motor. I'm looking for something easy to maintain (even if parts are a bit pricey) ie. mechanical or mostly so. And as good as possible on fuel in the 100-150HP/~200-300Tq range. My first thought was the VW 1.9 but that's got a lot of electronics, and is very far outside my comfort zone to work with. The 4bt is great but heavy for the application and fairly expensive these days. I'm personally more well versed in things like the 6.2/6.5 Detroit and the Ford IDIs than these smaller engines. Minor fab work and machining (like mounts and such) isn't an issue but I'd like to avoid major refitting like frame alterations if possible. I will put something similar to a factory gas motor in if need be, but she wants to build it out like our grandfather intended, as the most well rounded small truck possible. I fear the most logical answer is the OM606, but those are also quite pricey and well outside of my wheelhouse to work with too

Edit: We're also not *against* changing out the tranny if need be, but it's something we'd like to avoid. We're not looking at running huge tires, towing heavy or doing any crawling or anything like that so I'm not super worried

So I have a 2018 Chevy Cruze RS, 1.6 manual diesel, hatchback. It’s used with under 80k miles, but I’ve never had a diesel. I’ve had it 3 years now and want to start tuning it now that it’s paid off. I figured cold air intake and a better radiator, but I’m sort of clueless about what else. Any tips or suggestions that still help me keep my 40mpg would be greatly appreciated

Previously my starter went out and had to be replaced once installed the truck would not start with the key so I had to jump the starter solenoid to start it shortly after one of my batteries died so I put it on a battery charger to no avail and I figured it was just because it’s old voltage was good cca was f-ed so I replaced the battery worked like a charm next day went to start it up and the batteries were drained again a brand new battery so obviously something is draining my battery right but any ideas?

If I purchase a reproduction block of a 7.3 from a company that sells reproduction blocks for a truck I’m building do I legally have to install a DEF System. Because the 7.3 engine itself was produced before the DEF laws and never came from the factory with emissions equipment. DEF laws are so stupid it’s not even funny.

Good ole' TA in North Dakota price gouging like a mf'er. Went to Menards and got the same thing for $13. I don't mind a little up charge for convenience, this seems more like insanity.

This is the first engine I am learning my way around so I can use all the help I can get. Please explain things to me like the newbie that I am. 

Relevant items:

• The Van hasn't been started in 2 years
• Installed two brand new batteries yesterday
• I have dropped the fuel tank, during that process I disconnected the fuel lines

The problem:

Yesterday after hooking up the new batteries I was able to start the van. Once I got the engine running I let it chug along. After a minute or so the engine started running hard, seeming to misfire. Then I heard some significant knocking, at that point I quickly turned the engine off. 

I proceeded to confirm that the engine had oil, that the oil does not smell like gasoline, that the fuel tank was full (3/4), that there was transmission fluid and then emptied the water separator. 

After running through all those check I went to restart the engine. To my horror the engine won't fire up. I can hear it turning over but it just wont catch.

Any help and guidance is deeply appreciated.

I'll keep y'all updated as I tick through the suggestions. 

As the title says I’m looking for my first diesel, I’m heavily considering the 2019 L5P Denali or a 4th/5th gen Cummins Limited and MAYBE a ford 15’-17’. I’m leaning towards the Cummins simply because the cab won’t have to be pulled to get to certain things. The truck will be used for picking up toys from facebook marketplace/auction, daily driving, and road trips. I plan to T&D it. How have the 2019 era denalis held up over time (not the engine)? Is Ram really junk? I plan on getting the Aisin if I go Ram because they can be tuned now so transmission isn’t a problem. Are there anymore considerations that I’m missing out on? I want to keep the truck for a good 10 years so I really just want to buy something for longevity. And before anyone comes out and says do you really need a 1 ton diesel please keep it to yourself, I can afford it and I want it so I’m getting one. Thanks in advance!

How is it being a diesel mechanic, what field are you in(agriculture, construction, etc.). How is the day-to-day? Is it worth it?How is the toll? Do you like it?

2007 LBZ Everything I read before getting a lift pump says I should get better mileage when I installed a lift pump. I put the 165 GPH FASS system in my truck and I'm getting significantly worse mileage. If I drive it nicely, I normally get 16-17 around town and 20-21 on the highway. However, I just drove a couple hundred highway miles on a route I routinely get 19-20 MPG and I only am getting 16 on the highway. I went with the 165 GPH as opposed to the 100 GPH since I'm making a little more power than stock and I'd rather have too much fuel available than not enough. Other than the mileage, the truck runs so much better. Quieter at idle (not even typical lifter tick), and significantly less rolling coal when I get on it (pretty clean tune in general, but I am noticing even the initial puff of black smoke is almost nonexistent).

Anyone have the same experience? Do I maybe have another problem?

I purchased this truck and it’s an automatic. I am looking to get some information about how it is supposed to operate. Can anyone in here help me or lead me in the right direction.

I work at an independent shop in town. Last tech I knew at the dealership has since left. This is for my personal vehicle. I’m looking for someone with access to techline to request a bcm vci update to add rpo code UF3 per UI Bulletin #82H. We have a mdi and access to acdelco tds but since we’re not dealer we don’t have techline. WILLING TO PAY TO BE ABLE TO USE A LOGIN. Thanks

Just wondering if anyone has had any similar experiences. Just started happening with the colder than 40F temperatures or so over the last few weeks. Cold start with quite a bit of white smoke for maybe 15 seconds then completely clear and none while driving. Maybe condensation or intercooler?? Dont see any sign of leaking coolant or any differences in sound or operation. Sometimes i think i can smell coolant in the truck while heater is on but i cant be positive. Any ideas or thoughts are much appreciated. Thank you. FYI EGR is not deleted just unplugged so far. Have not gotten around to blocking plates yet.

I shimmed all of the injectors on Thursday and then filled the HPOP to help it build pressure.

It still wouldn’t start, after 4 full battery charges. My ICP builds pressure over 500 and IPW to over 2.0 and cranks at 200rpm

I tested the UCHV and that checked out and the harness from the IDM to injectors and that was good too

After I couldn’t get it started I pulled one injector to check if it had continuity. And oil, diesel drained out of it.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated!

I'm no mechanic so I have no idea why this is happening.

My car is a 2008 BMW 320d (n47d20c engine)

It needs 10 seconds of cranking to start in the cold, and then instantly stalls. Then Ill have to start again, and then after a couple of seconds it runs fine!

When I instantly turn on and off, it turns on fast.

When I turn it off and turn it on after like 20 seconds, it needs to crank over for a couple of seconds before starting.

other than that is drives great

I have already replaced injector #2 and coded it in and bled the system with the same result.

Good batteries, glow plugs/relay, injectors etc etc, 0w40 full synthetic with Archoil ar9100 friction modifier.

I've always plugged my block heater in during winter so never started the truck when frozen and just curious how bad it is for the engine when it's started in -25c or lower temps once in while?

Reason I'm asking is I'm going to be doing weekend trips with my truck camper so no power to plug in the block heater and no generator yet, but will be getting one sometime soon.

Truck has the high idle mod and grill cover so once started and oil pressure is stable high idle can be turned on to get the engine up to temp a lot faster.

So does cold starting a frozen 6.0 engine infrequently cause damage or G2G?

Thanks.

Hi folks. I had a couple of jugs of def in my garage that partially froze overnight. I turned on the heat to allow them to thaw. Is it still ok to use?

My passat doesn’t have the energy to start, will start with a jump, but when it gets too cold it won’t start at all on its own. Block heater solve my problems ? or is it something else?

2024 Ram 2500 Rebel. I drive some long range but don’t drive every day. (Truck sits most days.)

Temps in the middle of winter where I was were like 50f/30f so I didn’t have to do anything special. And here they’ll be like 20f/10f and getting below zero often.

I know I need a battery tender. Block heater? Different coolant? Different oil? Explain to me what I need to do as if I were an idiot, because I am.