Alright, i am now the 4th person in my family to get this truck, started with my great grandpa and worked its way down. its a 1986 f250 XLT lariat 6.9l its in really rough shape and its seen better days. i really wanna work on it and get it made to look like it did in the 1980s its gonna be rough and expensive and take time but i would please like some pointers and ideas for where to get parts

What kind of yearly income would I need if I wanted to buy/own a 2nd gen Cummins or just any early 2000s diesel that isn’t a 6.4/6.0?.

I own a 6.4l f250 and I got an exhaust clean up not too long ago and was wondering what the exact problem and weather I should fix it or not (I only need the truck to last until the end of the summer)

Hi, I recently purchased a 99 f450 7.3 with a little over 240k on the clock and some minor issues. I am a maintenance madman, I got it home and immediately got to ripping it apart, gone over the frame, fuel tank, diff, wiring etc. Right now I have the motor out and apart because the entire engine bay was coated in a thick layer of oil and I dont like tracking down individual symptoms, I just purchased every gasket the engine will need and Im replacing all of it except for the rear main. Ive never really worked on light/medium duty diesels, Most of my work is on paper log era semis so Im a bit clueless to any powerstroke specific issues.

What I really want to know is besides gaskets and rubber thats gone bad from being 25 years old; Is there anything else that I should check for or replace while the motor is out and apart that wont be fun to do with it back in the truck?

Hey guys i had my hilux 3L lose power and turn off while driving, pulled over and it turns over but wont fire, tried pumping more fuel manually and took the hose off and the fuel was coming through with each pump, not sure what else i can try now.. any one know of common faults, also no codes coming up.

Any help would be appreciated

Does this sound right? I have to go talk to him in person come Friday but from the information I got on the phone it doesn't sound like its worth it.

17 Colorado LWN Duramax, 6L50.

Most the charges make sense, but the ones that don't are:

-$250 for a transmission relearn. My L5P I can do that with BCM tuning. He kept saying it was a special software.

-$4000 for the rebuild parts. When asked he said raybestos steels/clutches, converter, fluid, and the service kit. I can only assume he means part number 000285 from Raybestos, which I can't find a price for, but the lower level steels and clutches are $186. The OE converter can be had for under $600 from what I've seen, but I plan on putting a RevMax triple disc. That wasn't part of the quote.

This doesn't sit right considering I had Inglewood transmission build my Allison with a goerend R, all new clutches and steels, and a shift kit for 5375 out the door. Pic for attention

Hi everyone. I’m looking at buying a truck with a 3406B in it. The folks selling it say they just put new injectors in it but it still smokes though it clears up some on a drive. Other than that they say it runs and drives great and will pass a DOT.

This would be my first rig, I’d like to know if I’m looking at something very expensive or relatively easy to fix. I realize there could be multiple things causing this but are any of them catastrophic? I wonder why the seller isn’t able to just get it done. It’s been 350,000 miles since they did an overhaul in it.

Is this worth putting a little money into or should I steer clear? Thanks!

So my D-4D Yaris is having a problem where the car sometimes jerks a lot in 1st gear when moving off and also jerks a bit at high speeds. The car has engine code P0488. Before I open up the EGR and investigate, I'm wondering, if the egr valve is just clogged, will a regen (drive at max rpm for 30min-1hr) clean the egr valve and possibly fix the issue?

UK here. I have a 10 year old car (Alfa Giulietta) and a previous owner has tried to remove the DPF, I'm guessing using a long stick or chisel. The filter internals are broken, but still in the exhaust, and when the car tries to regen a lot of smoke pours out of the exhaust.

The cost of replacement is really high, so I have 3 remaining options.

1. I've been quoted £500-£1000 to remove the internals, reweld, and remap. Variance in cost is due to uncertainty about how much damage is in there and how easy it will be to remove.

2. £200 for a remap only, leave the guts and hope all goes well. Certainly the smoking under regen suggests the filter isn't blocking the exhaust.

3. Drive it as-is and just try to slide down in my seat while the regen tries to fog the whole neighbourhood

Any thoughts?

The car recently passed an MOT with no evidence of a DPF issue as long as the regen is not underway

Good day ive been having electrical problem with my second gen cumming 12v the problem is the battery wont last more than a day i was wondering if i could put something that i could Manuely statt the engine so i could just ditch the batterys any thoughts?

I just can’t bring myself to buy anything but a Cummins. DRD has left the chat and I’m wanting to do a “2nd Gen swap”. I have a 16’ 3500 w/ G56 in my sights, but I’m not really interested in buying it unless I can do a 2nd gen manifold and a s464. I’m not after power, I’m after reliability. Sick of the VVT’s. The non VVT on my bigger trucks last on and on. I want that for my simi daily driver. I’d rather buy a used Ford v10 gasser than buy anything except the Cummins then do the swap. Any info is much appreciated!

Will it be okay if I keep brimming the tank

Basically I think the answer I will receive is I should do a gas 3/4 ton based off of what I’ve read but I’m also in a slightly different position than most. Towing wise I help run a couple car washes and run maintenance on College apartments. So I haul some of the equipment and then pallets of flooring, tile, tools, etc. and the yearly dumpster trailer of mulch or rock. So nothing insane but every week or 2 I tow something.

However my situation differs at the fact that the truck id be looking at will be new-2year old and sub 30k miles and I’ll be looking at driving the same truck the next 8-12 years and my wife’s family owns multiple car dealerships (the main US Brands). So I will get said vehicle at cost and maintenance will be at cost or below. Even my father in law has offered for me to “order” a truck for the dealership that he’d drive for 6-12 months as his demo and be able to write the cost down for the dealership.

Not the most knowledgeable on trucks but was leaning towards the duramax as I’ve read it’s the least “extreme” of the 3 main diesels Also I occasionally do some off roaring seasonally.

Thank you in advance for any recommendations or advice!

I just recently bought my first diesel and it is a 2023 Sierra 3500 HD AT4 with an L5P. It is stock but I was wondering what exhaust would be best to make it a little bit louder.

Looking for recommendations as far as tuners for my 250 lariat

Rotella T6 15W-40 2.5gal is $56 from $79 @ WalMart right now. Picked up the last 2 at my WM on the way home.

I got a 12v Cummins I noticed this breather like tube that hangs down sorta by the oil pan just wondering what it is ?

I'm adding on board air to my pickup truck and would like to add a tank drain so my air supply drains when I shut off the truck. However, I can't find one that also has a safety valve built in so I'd like to add one.

Can I pull out the plug on the side (the one on top in the pictures) and add a safety valve there or would I need to put in a "T" that they both connect to?

Thanks

I bought a 7.3 not to long ago and have already put a 5 inch exhaust with a 4 inch down pipe on it (btw huge difference in turbo spooling) but now I’m looking to put a chip on it, I’ve heard about the hydra’s but I’m just not to sure if that’s what I want if you guys have any suggestions that’d be great. 👍

My local Ford dealer used to carry them in stock due to the shear amount of those trucks around here but said they stopped producing them around 6 years ago.

A buddy of mine has a bit of excessive cam endplay and needs the shims to bandaid it until I can get it in to pull it and repair properly.

Anyone know the part number or a source for them? Can't find jack online.

My dad took this compressor and tank off our camping trailer and gave it to me, so I'm planning on hooking it up to I can have on board air installed on my truck for things like airbags and tires

What do I need to complete this setup and get it installed? I plan to use a manual valve controller for the air bags, then of course tires will just run off the port already installed on the tank

Thanks!

Selling my house in a week and plan to fulltime live in a camper for a bit. I'm buying both the truck and the camper.

It won't be a small camper, probably around 30 feet (10k lbs. dry). Here is the list I'm looking at so far. I am looking at reliability over horsepower.

I'd love to hear any suggestions and thoughts.

1999-2003 Ford F-250/F-350 Super Duty (7.3-Liter Power Stroke)

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra 2500/3500 (6.6-Liter Duramax LB7)

2006-2007 Chevrolet Silverado/GMC Sierra (6.6-Liter Duramax LBZ)

1994-1998 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 (5.9-Liter, 12-Valve Cummins)

2003-2007 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 (5.9-Liter, 24-Valve Cummins)

I want to get a Lance 850 truck camper, 3000lbs, and be able to carry my motorcycle. I want to be able to off road, nothing crazy, but want to be as capable as possible. I’m leaning towards a f350 tremor. What do y’all think?

Hey guys looking for help or someone to point me in the right direction. I’ve had my truck for about two years now, bought it brand new. I’m having an issue where whenever I load the bed with any significant weight the truck wags side to side. Even when the bed is empty, whenever I step on the gas hard it’s sways side to side. Worth noting I leveled the truck with Carli 2.5” coils, replaced the shocks to some fox shocks, and replaced the front track bar. Thanks