Got this 2019 3500. I’m running hotshot. I can’t do a complete delete. What are my best options with the exhaust system?

Just got my motor back from the shop, and I need to change up my build plan. (Lots more broken shit than I thought and a baby now on the way)

Motor has

Hamilton towing cam

60lb valve springs

18 degrees of timing

4k gov spring

Number 8 fuel plate

Fass180

Stock injectors

Fresh rebuild on the long block

I’m gonna get an upgraded cooler, 3 piece exhaust manifold, intake box/ intake.

I’m not SUPER concerned with making a ton of power, I just want the truck to drive nicely and reliably. I was going to do the crazy carls twins, but now going with getting my hx35 rebuilt.

Anyone know fuck all about compressor wheel sizing? There’s so many variables it’s hard to figure out what’s what, but I just want the truck to run well without having to wait forever to get the thing to spool.

I've been chasing a CEL with a code that my mechanic (not a dealer) couldn't definitively diagnose. He told me to take it to a dealer, which I plan on, but they're weeks out and I need to get my truck registered. I've already paid my registration fees and have done a temp tag. I am now on my 2nd and last temp tag, so I've gotta figure this out ASAP.

Truck is a 2017 Ram 3500. About 115k miles on it.

I am fairly handy with a wrench. I've done the full EGR service. I can probably replace whatever the problem part is on my own.

Any thoughts?

I have a handful of things left from when I sold me truck. I'm in the Chicagoland Area, pickup only, unless you want to pay for shipping.

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-18" Factory Ram wheels (center caps and lug nuts included - not pictured), 275/70R18 Bridgestone Blizzak LT's, TPMS sensors are installed and included -SOLD

-Emissions equipment and exhaust - $700

-Factory carpet mats - $15 obo

-(not pictured) Front suspension (shocks, springs, sway bar - all have 12,000 miles on them) and rear stock shocks (was air ride truck) - $250 obo

-(not pictured) Husky No-Drill Mud Flaps - $40 obo

-(not pictured) Front winter grille cover, lower section removed due to light bar - $20 obo

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Is there any website thats thurough in regards to getting a Gen 3 5.9 to run on oil? Or making yout own bio diesel? With prices through the roof here in CA its either the conversion or red diesel and I'm thinking tank dipping stops are not far from happening.

Just after 100k miles, the truck started misfiring, most noticeably under load. Mileage wasn't good. Eventually I got a code P020B for injector 2, so I replaced injector 2. The symptoms improved, but I still experienced stumbling. Eventually I got a hard code for injector 6 and there was a pending code for injector 4. I replaced both of those last night and went for a test drive. Stumbling is better, but not gone.

My current plan is to drive it until another code pops. If it's one of the injectors I've replaced already I would suspect a bad replacement part. Any suggestions?

Thank for reading.

For sale. The body is in rough shape, the engine has been well cared for before sitting for the last 2 years. 350k miles. Has an extra 80 gallon fuel tank in the bed. Long bed. Located in Annapolis, MD area. Make me a reasonable offer.

2006 dodge 3500. The issue seems to be heat related and only occurs when towing. The trailer loaded weighs approximately 11000 lbs. The problem occurs after 30 or so miles of towing. The truck very harshly bumps and power cuts. I can reduce speed for a few miles and then it occurs again until I have gone from 70 mph to 40 mph. I was able to crawl at 40 for several miles. Transmission was rebuilt recently but problem existed before that. The only code is for a crank position sensor and the CEL comes on either just before or right when the power loss begins. A new, oem sensor was installed but did not cure the issue. Could this be a battery issue has indicated by the code reader? I do have new battery cables on order since mine are corroded. Fuel delivery failure? Reluctor wheel? Any advise greatly appreciated.https://i.imgur.com/XIPO8nC.jpg

Good evening, y'all.

I know H&S shut down, but I was wondering if anyone had the software for the H&S XRT Pro Diesel Downloader and a EGR/DPF delete tune for my truck? I had accidentally used an Edge CTS3 with tunes (I'm new to the diesel world and actually had no idea my truck had DPF and EGR deletes done to it.)

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Thank you!

I am trying to install led bulbs in the factory housing and need so assistance with resistors. Which wires need resistors?

My 4th gen has the bracket in top of the Trans that I have to remove to get to the freeze plug. There are 4 bolts. 14mm seems like it's a little too big, 13mm is too small. 9/16 too small. What fucking size are those bolts???

A friend has a 2003 Ram 3500 5.9l 24V. The filter housing is cracked and leaking fuel and nobody can seem to find one with everyone telling them it’s obsolete. I tried to find online and didn’t really find anything. One website said that part was discontinued. Is this accurate? Does anyone know where I could find this part? It blows my mind that NOBODY makes this part anymore. Thanks in advance! Any insight is appreciated.

I'm considering purchasing a 2007 Ram 3500 manual, asking $24k with 160k miles. I haven't gotten to test drive in person yet, but with these trucks selling as fast as they do, I'd have to move quickly. So got this video from the owner checking for blowby.

Does it look like it? Most of the trucks I've been able to find seem to have at least some vapor coming out, but I don't know what is bad, other than the obvious.

Thanks!!!

https://reddit.com/link/o2bfik/video/73mqkvbpyw571/player

Howdy,

I have an 06 2500, 5.9, 6spd, 204k miles.The DMF was ripped out and replaced with a Valair DD a week after it was bought.

I swapped injectors about a month ago because I was getting a ton of smoke, a slight miss, and it just ran like crap. I swapped the injectors and now I've got a vibration at idle that I can't seem to figure out. I did a Cylinder Performance test w/ AlphaOBD:

#1: 101%
#5: 100%
#3: 99%
#6: 100%
#2: 104%
#4: 97%

I also did a Cylinder Cutoff Test with the App, and #4 only shows a drop of 4rpms? The rest show a drop of 1rpm? The engine was hot (200*) for all tests, but its a frigid 60* here in Texas.

The intake was lashed to .010 and exhaust to .025. I tried .020 on the exhaust, and it really didn't seem to like it.
I run Power Service in every tank, about 1oz/2gal. Other than the vibration, it occasionally sounds like it has a fuel knock/ping every now and then, but it runs a ton better than it did with the old injectors.

Short of just swapping #2 and #4, is there anything else I can try?