/r/Diesel
Welcome to /r/Diesel, reddit's home for everything about compression motors!
Welcome to /r/Diesel, reddit's home for everything about compression motors! All content related to diesels is welcome here.
Please read the subreddit policies before you post and comment.
Edit your own flair above so we know what you drive!
Rules & Guidelines:
All posts must be diesel-specific. If you are posting a picture of a vehicle or part of a vehicle that could also be from a gas-powered vehicle, provide context (rule 3) or consider posting to a more appropriate sub.
Be respectful to each other and keep it civil.
Please include some information (Year, model, modifications, likes, dislikes, etc) on it in the comments of your submitted pictures! It adds context, encourages discussion, and helps us to appreciate your submission more.
No image macros or memes, please visit /r/truckmemes.
Don't spam the sub with youtube vids/channels or Instagram accounts. No blogspam or bots.
No posts or videos promoting any intentional "coal rolling" or similar type behavior. Let's continue to keep our community viewed in a positive and responsible regard.
No posts about vehicle purchasing advice, please post those questions to a more appropriate sub such as /r/carbuying /r/carbuyingadvice or one of the diesel truck subs listed below in the sidebar.
In the market for a diesel vehicle? | Buying a Used Diesel |
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Choosing your Diesel Pickup. | |
Cummins: | 5.9 Vs 6.7 |
Powerstroke: | Buying a used powerstroke |
Powerstroke Injector Testing | |
Bulletproofing a 6.0 | |
Engine Diagnosis: | Diesel Exhaust Color Diagnosis |
Choosing the right oil: | Engine oil 101 |
Read the Truth about Cold Air Intakes (or at least one mans project to get real lab data) before you go spend that $500....
Related subs. | |
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/r/Trucks | /r/classictrucks |
/r/4x4 | /r/Justrolledintotheshop |
/r/MechanicAdvice | /r/TruckCampers |
/r/slammedtrucks | /r/dieseltechs |
Mod suggested subs:
Brand | Diesel | Just Trucks |
---|---|---|
/r/Dodge | /r/CTD | /r/ram_trucks |
/r/Ford | /r/FordDiesels | /r/FordTrucks |
/r/Chevy | /r/Duramax | /r/ChevyTrucks |
/r/Volkswagen | /r/tdi | |
/r/Nissan |
Banner image thanks to u/KnightStalker.
/r/Diesel
Hello looking for advice on a turbo upgrade on old school mechanical diesel in old-er school truck. Need exhaust size, material, and power expertise.
I've been driving a truck for about 13 years that I bought from a guy who shoe-horned a John Deere 4039D into a 1959 ford f100. (4L 4 cylinder)
It's a pig. I love it. But, could use a bit more power, pump is turned up about as high as it'll go, and EGTs get high on rainy or hot days, and I'm in second gear on the freeway at high altitude, and we all agree that's stupid. I found the 4049 (bigger engine) turbo, which should bolt to the factory turbo manifold which I've also obtained. I can figure out the oil plumbing.
Should I drop the coin for stainless exhaust? What size? It's got 2.25" od tubing now. The Turbo came /w a 3.5" OD outlet. I've heard turbos are relatively quieter...but I'm not sure how much. I really don't want it any louder inside the truck (besides the obvious whine), because noise cancelling over-the-ear headphones are about at their limits now. Muffler recommendations?
While it's loud now, I feel like most of the noise is from various parts (glove box door, worn out door seals causing passenger door and glass to rattle) and a severe lack of dynamat.
PCV into the exhaust?
Can someone temper my expectations: I don't expect to gain any power, just lower EGTs...unless I add Propane injection or somehow find a bigger injection pump that bolts on? (Stanadyne Model# 6788136 S/N. RE-44483 F0(or P0) b24914 2500). I know a lot of gasoline geeks, but no real old school mechanical diesel geeks.
This picture isn't my truck, but it's extremely close and is my goal. https://carolina-classics.com/products/rear-glass-rubber-seal-no-slot-for-chrome-1957-60
Shoot me a pm if you’re interested in getting setup with a system with 24/7 tech support
I’m in the market for a F-250 6.7L between $30,000 and $35,000. Over the last week this has put me squarely around 2014-2015 6.7L Fords.
What maintenance concerns should I take into consideration between the two variants? I’m seeing some 2014s for ~$32K and 2015s at $34-35K with similar mileage and trim packages (Lariats).
I have an 01 LB7 that I’m going to get the head gaskets done on them. I’ve been calling different shops to get estimates and a mechanic called me today with his quote and told me that he talked to his engine guy where he would send the heads out to he he was told that LB7 heads can’t be decked/machined that I should just buy new ones incase mine are warped bad. Is that true? Why can’t they be machined?
I've had 2 7.3s, 5 6.0s, and a couple of Cummins and dirtymaxes towed in in the last month for various no start issues that all came down to shit cheap batteries.
Napa gold or legend
The more expensive O'Reilly's super starts
Ac Delco
Interstate.
Those brands can be trusted as the cold months set it. Your Walmart specials and AAA bullshit cannot.
And for the love of all that is holy, if one battery is bad replace both.
I have a low km 22 duramax 2500, my last was a LBZ Duramax. Lbz was great and I got alot of kms out of it and made lots of money with it I'm less satisfied with the 22. The emissions stuff scares me, I'm not thrilled about the 10 speed transmission although it seems fine now. I tow a mini excavator a fare bit in the summer months, probably about 100 miles or so a week. Trailer is 14k loaded. I also plow a lot of snow in the winter. How would a f250 godzilla perform? I know it's got basically the same transmission as the chevy but some different internals. Diesel is currently 40+ cents cheaper per liter. Add in no def, cheaper oil changes, less emissions nonsense. Will it pull up a mountain without a gear change, not likely but will it be ok? Hilly country no high speed expressways around here so likely be keeping it at 60mph
And by make oil I mean leak diesel into the oil.
We've got a 2022 Ram 3500 with the 6.7. It's a company vehicle and goes to dealerships to be serviced. Less than 30,000 miles. The past 2 oil changes the dealerships have reported it was 2 quarts high when changed. I find it more likely that the tech overfilled it and sent it out without checking the level, but is there the possibility of the motor making oil? I'm familiar with it happening on old diesels, but a new 6.7?
We'll keep a close eye on it this go around and send an oil sample off for testing if needed.
Thanks
6.0L V8 sounds like ass and isn’t starting.
Hey guys! Hope someone can help me, got an 2012 Audi a3 1.6 tdi with roughly 240 000 km on the clock. Bought it recently from a dealer and shortly after injector 3 decided to give up, got it changed for free by the dealer and it runed fine for the first 20 mins after picking it up. Then I decided to buy som injector cleaning and put in the tank just to be “safe” for the other 3 injectors, cause hey! it can’t make things worse I thought. But now the engine is making this kinda knocking sound. Is it just the cleaner working its magic or is it something else?
Thanks in advance!
Anyone know of another/amazon type backup camera that will work with the edge cts3 it inly has a usb style plug out the back instead of a RCA
I currently have a 1995 12 valve cummins with about 438 thousand km, leaks oil out the front crank seal pretty bad at the moment but oil pressure and everything is fine, but I got presented the opportunity to buy/trade for a clean 7.3 powerstroke with 170k km on it. What would you guys do?
Bought it for $1000 at a farmers retirement auction. Previous owner said it cranks but doesn’t fire. After I get some new batteries for it, and confirm it does crank and won’t fire. What would my next steps be to maybe get this thing running? I’m new to diesel engines, so this is going to be a learn as you go project. I’ve worked on tons of gas engines. I appreciate any help and tips. Thank you.
I am moving to the Rocky Mountains and am set on getting a used diesel truck. I have a 2019 F350 we used for hauling a 5th wheel but want something a little smaller and not a dually (currently have a dually). I didn’t do a ton of research on the 350 before I bought it (just wanted something that could pull a 5th wheel easily at that time) but I have enjoyed the truck for the most part. I have also heard it would be a good option (not a must have) to have a truck with locking diffs so that would be a plus. What’s going to be best up there for my budget of $60,000? This truck is focused on daily driving, not necessarily off road and my main concern is when it snows. And what should I avoid? Makes, models, years, etc.
Just got a 06 5.9 Cummins with 186k miles and have put around 10k miles on it. Runs great. When I bought it the tach didn’t work took off the cluster and resoldered the chips. Was driving it today and was sitting idle at a drive through when the temp gauge ran up to 225-230. Checked the fluids, radiator fan was running fine. Drove back to the house and idled again for 15-20 minutes and the temps didn’t rise at all (190). Truck normally runs 190-200 I’ve noticed it climb to around 205 if I’m driving uphill. I’m new to diesels and not very mechanically inclined but trying to learn. Reason I suspect the cluster is faulty for one, I fucked with it but I’ve noticed the battery gauge tweak out a little. Curious on what a guy might think.
Just needed to share it I know the 6.5t ain’t the best but its been good to me. but my god is the truck good lookin
Looking at a fishing boat with a 1986 Mack E7
Any input greatly appreciated
I've seen a lot of debates online about whether diesel emission systems on trucks are really a beneficial system for the environment. From what I can tell they only impact the engines negatively and other diesel engines in construction equipment, tractors, large ships, trains all are much more harmful to the environment compared to trucks used by everyday people. As a 16 year old looking to buy a diesel truck when I get older I am concerned that the truck I buy will have problems at low milage because of emission systems. My grandpa has a 2000 7.3 powerstroke at 214k miles and a 2022 6.7 powerstroke at 30k miles. From what he's told me there has been minimal problems with the 7.3 and never been in the shop for the 20 years that he's owned it. But his 6.7 has been having tons of problems with the EGR. Now I understand that the laws to limit emissions are there for a reason but it like overkill. I would love feedback on this as I am very interested in this topic!
Looking to purchase or lease a truck with bad credit. Can any one advise. My husband is looking to do oversized load.
Trying to figure out issue here. Just put the truck on a diet and tuned. No surging on rpms at dash. This only happens at low acceleration. Possible leak somewhere?
I have an 06 F250 with the every friendly, always temperamental, super reliable 6.0. I am in a live hate relationship with this motor.
Anyways... just changed the oil, towed a trailer from Phoenix to Ca... roughly it was a 1000 mile round trip. No issues. Park the truck, start it up two days later and I get a puddle of oil. We'll, I think I found the leak.
Looking to get a Chevy 2500 diesel. What mileage is considered to high? Is 100k a lot if buying used?
Hey yall I'm sure I'm the 738,539th lost about this but od like yalls opinions on this. So my grandmother has a stinger edition 4th gen ram 1500 that got me into trucks and my dad as a 6.7 alumiduty that got me into diesels. Long story short I qamt to get my first real truck. I already have a clapped ahitbox xj cherokee and my project e93 335i bmw so I need something that can tow. Given a budget of around 8k what would be a good rig to get. I like the looks of the 6.0 gen powerstroke but I also like the facelifted 3rd gen but in yalls opinions are there others I should look into. And what would you reccomend and why
All input and advice welcome
Bought my first diesel pickup, 2015 ram 2500! I worked on diesel trucks for the Air Force so I’m not a complete rookie, but I do want to hear opinions on a couple matters.
1: I purchased an extended warranty through omega auto care alongside it for 5 years or 75k miles. This is great and all if anything major breaks, but based on what I’ve read in the contract I can’t do any mods or deletes on the motor/emissions without it voiding the warranty. Specifically the banks monster ram and grid heater delete. Are these extended warranties worth it or will they find any excuse to not actually cover any repairs?
2: I planned on running rotella t6 15w40(southern Illinois if anyone cares) but I’ve read a lot lately about amsoil being a better option?
3: any general opinions on things to look out for on these or maintenance tips/tricks are all welcome!
I’m doing the Glow plugs on my 2005 6.0L and I got all the wiring harnesses off no problem but when I was taking the last one off like a tinny peice broke off and fell into the hole, I was looking at it and since the glow plugs were still in it just was in the space inbetween (I have no idea what this space is called or for that’s why I’m concerned) and just wondering if it’s just empty space or I should make try to get it out, the piece is probably about the size of half a pinky nail.
2003 6.0 powerstroke has excessive turbo fart with little to no power and what sounds like the turbo whine is really loud. All that happened at the same time after taking off from a stop. Truck was running like a scalded ape 30 seconds before. Now it’s blowing (farting) out of the air filter every time it shifts or even when only doing 5 mph and letting off the pedal.
MAP koeo 14.3 BARO koeo 14.4 EBP koeo 0 (but shows boost still builds to 20ish before it blows)