Well... someone attempted to remove #8 at one point... I swear I only ever see this on duramax

Recently acquired a Silverado with the 3.0 Duramax and am absolutely loving it. Started using the UpSide app, and it gave some discounts, but seemed pretty minimal for diesel. I then signed up in the MudFlap app and am getting a lot better discounts for it, usually .25/.45 per gallon off. The biggest drawback is having to go through the commercial lane. Does anyone use any other discount source for diesel? And if so, what are the pros/cons for each?

And of course, use this sign up and get a free $10 with your next fill up.

https://download.mudflapinc.com/invite/wie4560a

Does this exist? Behold, the Five-Fold-Path to Delight:

1 -- Pre- DEFL/SCR Diesel (so anyyyyyy year before 2010?).
* That is, when diesel wasn't ruined. This point, although first on the list, is negotiable, because you know, DLT.

2 -- Light Duty Mid-Size Truck (ie Ranger, Tacoma, Colorado, Flintstone Mobile, etc).
* You might think that Light Duty and Mid-Size are contradictions. But my friend, they ain't. Full-Size is ok if that's the only thing that makes this list work, or if they are just awesom'er, but HD's are disqualified.

3 -- Manual Transmission. Non-Negotiable.
* Ok fine, everything on this list is negotiable. Just give me a Prius why don't you. Wait, I'll take a bag of rocks instead.

4 -- Crew Cab or Close To It.
* Gotta be able to fit kids, wife, and bags of crap. How much crap? Oh, so much, muchly crap, you wouldn't believe how much crap. (anyone else married?)

5 -- Not so ancient that it will die tomorrow.
* Bonus points for reliability rankings

***NB: Truly I tell you, if manufacturers created such a thing of eternal beauty, they would print dollars hand over fist (Hey you, Big Three, are you listening? No not you China, be a good boy and use the front door please).

Been getting the P003A and P00AF, and have seen the U010C. Still builds boost, but exhaust brake barley functioning, no oil leaks that I've seen.
Obviously needing to replace the turbo.

Been watching videos on how to do, looks like a PITA, but do-able.
Any non-mechanics tackled this? Or is it worth the $1k+ labor feels the shops are quoting me?

I need to get some parts for my 2016 LML and was looking at ordering them from The Diesel Dudes. Seems like a pretty safe bet as I know lots of people are happy with EZ Lynk and the rest of the parts are pretty standard. With tariffs going into effect tomorrow, does anyone know how this will impact the ordering or delivery process? I tried calling them and left a message, but haven't heard back yet.

New to diesel, and I bought a 2013 F350 Super Duty C&C with 49K miles. It was a town vehicle and seems to be very well maintained. Bonus, it came with a 9' fisher plow that I've already put to good use this winter.

I'm well aware of issues with the CP4, Turbo, etc.. and I have some money to sink into the vehicle. I'm also fully on board with fuel additives, and I've already put an oil bypass filtration system on it. I'd like it to last a long time and have no problem dropping $$$ to swap out the CP4 for a DCR, and replace the turbo while that's being done. What I'm looking for is a good and reputable diesel shop to do the work. I have a trusted mechanic to do the gas stuff that I'm not willing to do myself, but I'm a babe in the woods when it comes to diesel. While I'm very handing around a motor, and I'm sure I could do this stuff, I can't fit this beast into my garage to do the work, I can barely fit the nose of my Tundra in as it is.

Can do whatever text on the front or blank. Have a few different color choices. It magnetically attaches to your truck bed. I am working on an amsoil and power service version as well. Looking for feedback!

I have been looking for a diesel dually in my area and I came across a 2019 6.7 Dually with only 55k miles for $44K. Does it seem like a good deal? What are some things to look out for on these Fords?

Was wondering how worried I should be. Never heard the turbo whine before, just did an oil change on her, and now she has a slight whine. Last owners of the truck didn't take car of her, trying to clean her up.

05 ram 2500 5.9l Cummins

What could the issue be? I scanned the truck but zero codes.

https://reddit.com/link/1igk8lu/video/ry2qrwjwsvge1/player

Co worker of mine is offering me $1,400 for his 2002 7.3L power stroke. Approximately 302k miles and a recently rebuilt transmission with 25k left on the warranty. Recent new tires. Bed is completely rotted but the frame is decent. Would be used around my property as a plow truck and hauling wood for the wood boiler (once I put a flatbed on it). Only thing I’m hesitant about is I live in northern Mn where we frequently get -20+ in the winter. I have no prior experience with diesels, am I getting ripped or is this a decent offer?

I’m about to finance a 2016 ford f250 superduty with 124k miles and i believe everything is oem on it. How scared should i be of the cp4 grenading?

I bought a ‘93 D250 about a month or so ago and the seats are pretty ripped up. Came with these seat covers but I’m looking to get something nice to cover them up instead. Everywhere I’ve looked only has options for the bench seat in this model and I can’t find any for the bucket seats. Anything helps!

So i got a 1990 toyota starlet ep80 with a 1.5 diesel turbo and i decided to upgrade the turbo. The stock turbo was no bigger than the palm of my hand so i decided to go with the best option… a turbo the size of my head haha (AR70 cold AR48 hot) besides an upgraded fuel system (injectors,diesel pump) and racing manifolds are their any systems that could help me spin my turbo?

So i got a 1990 toyota starlet ep80 with a 1.5 diesel turbo and i decided to upgrade the turbo. The stock turbo was no bigger than the palm of my hand so i decided to go with the best option… a turbo the size of my head haha (AR70 cold AR48 hot) besides an upgraded fuel system (injectors,diesel pump) and racing manifolds are their any systems that could help me spin my turbo?

I think I'm going to purchase an older truck. Has 200,000 miles. Priced at $11,000. Rust is as expected from an older truck.

Anything I should be looking for when test driving and looking under the hood? How can I get some leeway on the price with negotiations? Any advice would be helpful.