So I have a 2017 ram 3500 Cummins and i didn’t use it for about 2-3 months since it was getting a body repair and paint I have it now and I was using it since I do snow removal with it and I just connected the plow and was driving around with plow making sure everything was ok

And as I got back to park the truck this came on and i don’t know if i should get it checked asap or no because i need it for the snow since i have commercial properties to plow or should I wait it out until after the snow season??

OK Reddit, please start your comment with YES or NO before you go into why. I'll keep an excel spreadsheet of results. Looks like the Powerstroke 6.4 is the most hated diesel engine of the modern times, but given an opportunity, and knowing ONLY the following, would you buy?

2008 F350 Supercrew King Ranch dually 4x4
- Price: $8k

- Miles: 225k

- EGR, DPF deleted, tuned to remove the regen and errors (no power added).

- Compound turbo has been replaced with a single turbo

The good:

- No blowby (as far as I've been able to tell after watching hundreds of videos on blowby) - there's very light "steam" rising from the oil fill in the middle of winter, and I cannot feel any pressure on my hands)

- light coat of oil on intake pipes, but turbo props are clean

- No rust on the body panels, (rare for a MN/IA truck) very light coat on underbody chassis/frame (light tint, but not the stuff that will flake off), no body damage anywhere (missing a wheelwell liner, but that's it), no rips on the seats. I would describe the whole truck as "clean."

- truck sounds and runs like a top, no knocking, grinding, vibrations, etc.

- power everything, including heated seats and they all work.. except the 4x4, or 4x3 (more below)

- already set up with airbags

The bad:

- Someone tried to fix and subsequently messed up the 4x4, got the vacuum lines mixed up with the windshield washer lines. I've already diagnosed a bad locking hub on drivers side, and will need to work on the vacuum system. Manual lock works, and gets power to 3 wheels.

- headlight on driver side cannot be adjusted, probably a bad housing and needs a new one

- Oil under and around the pan; can't tell if it's the oil pan gasket or something else.

- Slight leak at transmission cooler, 99% sure it's just the hose clamp. Levels show normal on dipstick.

- all 4 rears are worn bald, fronts are about 75%

- front bumper slightly bent in at passenger corner, bull bar has small dent in middle but didn't bend the bar itself.

- center console leather is starting to crack into a honeycomb pattern, but has not ripped.

- carrier bearing (for driveshaft) bushings are old and starting to separate. I'll probably need to replace before too long.

Of course, it's a 16 yr old truck so it's not perfect. I need something heavy duty to tow around an enclosed car hauler. Wouldn't mind starting with this and if it last me 5 years, 60k miles I'd be happy as heck. Anything beyond would be a bonus. Thoughts? Sorry for the wall of text, and thank you all in advance.

Hey all, I own a Jetta TDI 2009, and the diesel engine is REALLY struggling to start up when it gets cold. I've had the battery tested to make sure it's good and I was told that it and the alternator didn't seem to be the problem, that starting a diesel engine in the winter simply requires a lot of amp. So far the only way to get it going is to boost it using another car. It ain't practical to put it mildly.

So what are my best options to make this problem a simple inconvenience? I've heard of battery pack booster for cars. But I don't want to buy something cheap that'll fuck up when I need it most. I need something I know will work in minus 25 celcius at the least. It doesn't need to have any fancy features. All I want is for it to RELIABLY start my car in the dead of winter on the coldest days.

Thx a lot in advance kind redditors

Hey guys, I’m looking to buy a 6.7 2016. There asking 36k for it has 84k miles looks mint no rust or anything.

Idle hours are 542. I’ve seen others that have way more.

Good deal or no?

I was looking for a 2017-2019 but the one I was going to purchase sold yesterday smh. I need a truck asap for work so I’m looking at this one.

Looking at a former ambulance. Is this a good engine? I've mostly looked at 7.3 Powedtrokes and LBZs until this came along.

308k miles

So far I have added MBRP 4 inch turbo backed exhaust and let me tell you that down pipe is a pain. Then sb cold air intake much easier to install and and jelibuilt hydra tuner also super easy. Absolutely love it no longer feels like driving underwater.

I see people removing the oil/fuel drain plugs in the heads before removing injectors, some didn’t and just turned motor over with glow plugs out, can I get by with that? I’ve stripped one of the drain plugs and people say it gets in there regardless so it’s almost pointless

All opinions appreciated

Anyone here familiar with medium duty ISB6.7 Cummins? Having a hell of a time with one in an M2 bus chassis.

Long cranking before starts, and have been through about every test I can find. Fuel flow is good, un-aerated and keeps prime in the lines, but slow to build rail pressure and start when cranking.

New everything.

Followed the Banks directions for installing the stealth pod + iDash. The process was pretty straight forward. I have a `23 Silverado 2500. As per the instructions, I disconnected both batteries before starting to avoid letting the airbag behind the grab handle exploding all over me.

No problems during install, I was pleased.

However, after putting everything back together and starting the truck up, the info center wanted me to lower the drivers window and press OK. Then it said "service 4WD". And then the electronic parking brake was enabled.

After setting the engine type on the iDash, I used it to check for codes, and it reported nothing. After a little bit, I turned off the truck then turned it back on a few minutes later. Parking brake re-enabled itself (I do not have a sloped driveway), and the service engine light was on.

I ended up needing to drive into town, and it ran just fine. The iDash was giving me all the information I wanted. I'm going to it again today to see what's up. None of these info center messages have been a problem until I plugged in the iDash (nor was the electronic parking brake ever auto-enabling itself). Anyone else encounter something like this?

2007.5 6.7 Cummins Maf sensor slow to accelerate turbo won’t spool on startup but making boost no coal even on hotter tune replaced Maf sensor and pigtail pigtail gets power but not returning any signal?? S&B intake

What is the repair? How much would it cost in DFW Texas?

I own a 2007 VW Golf mk5 1.9tdi and I have noticed that engine temperature reaches 90C after 9-10km of driving especially in the winter. Is it okay? Or it should warm up way faster for example driving 5km?

Looking to buy a salvage title one with low miles for a good price and this will be my first nicer car so I want to see if it’s reliable or is there any issues you think I’ll have, also if I get it I’ll probably want to tune it, I heard tuned diesels are pretty fast, so that’ll be fun

I don’t know much about diesels so talk to me like I’m 5. Thanks

I love my truck, but all weekend in -c temps just to replace an O-ring is fuggin brutal I tell yah!

https://imgur.com/a/NkD71WY

I have a 2003 Dodge Ram Cummins dually, that I use for hauling horses and hay. I use it less than 100 miles a month and more in the summer and less in the winter.

I’ve always heard I should keep the fuel tank as full as possible, but Ive also heard for infrequent use you should keep it at a quarter of a tank and fill back to a 1/4 tank every time so there’s always fresh fuel in it.

Full tank with a fuel stabilizer or little and often but always fresh?

I am torn between selling my 16 w/g56 and getting a tundra or just replace parts until it completely dies. Is it worth it to keep it running or just bite the bullet on a new truck?

Thinking about Upgrading from a half ton because I need the payload for my little Kids/Dogs when we tow our camper. Never had a diesel, probably overkill for my 6,500 pound fully loaded camper but we pull it out west a few times a year. Also a pain to fill up the current gasser I have when towing the camper out to Colorado.

I See all the stuff on the web about maintenance costs and def issues... makes me think twice but this seems like a steal. Still has factory warranty so that nelps.

Pull the trigger or get the 2500 gasser for a bit less?

2023 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT crew cab z71 Duramax

Miles: 18k Price: $47,000

I have a 86 Ford Bronco with the EFI 5.0L, I love the Windsor engines I've had multiple cars with this engine but this is my first truck with it. I would love to diesel swap my Bronco due to the huge low end Torque they can produce but at the moment that seems unfeasible due to the fact I live in Australia and it's very hard to get the American Diesel V8s or even a Cummins for a reasonable price here.

So I am wondering is it possible to get diesel like performance out of a 5.0L EFI Windsor, I'm mainly looking for big low end Torque, what would you suggest I do to the engine to achieve this if even possible.

Hello!

I have an 84 k2500, its a work truck. Engine is a little tired and I’ve been planning a restoration and engine swap. I had been planning a cummins swap, then researching zf6, nv4500 or g56 transmission.

Ive been hunting for a donor truck for the transmission and transfer case because i think it could be a lot cheaper and require less complex math than buying loose parts and assembling.

Recently i found a 2000 gmc 1 ton 4x4 truck with the 6.5 and nv4500 for 5k. The truck has 100k miles on it and looks well maintained.

Im see there are some easy things to make the 6.5 more reliable- vacuum pump delete/ manual waste gate, the fuel pump controller heat issue… I

Is this a straight forward swap with all the parts there from the donor truck or am i tripping?

Any experience/ advice appreciated.

Looking at buying a diesel in the next week and I have found two trucks priced right around $30k. Both are almost identical in miles, and cosmetic condition is really good on both.

2017 Ford F350 Powerstroke Lariat - 170k miles 2015 GMC 2500 Duramax Denali - 168k miles

I know it all depends on the maintenance and upkeep for the previous 170k miles, but generally speaking which truck will give me less maintenance/repairs costs?

Thanks for any responses.