Since I don't run a tuner. And I've upgraded my compressor wheel. My downpipe diameter by half an inch. My fuel regulator spraying. my charge pipe diameter by half an inch is the tune going to be absolutely necessary?

Back in June I had to replace both stand pipes on my 6.0. Before that, a mechanic has replaced my IPR valve. About 2 months ago, she broke down again while in tow. I got her home and tried chasing down the cause. Initially it seemed like the IPR valve had failed, so I pulled it and found that the solenoid and valve assembly appeared to be separating on one side. Also, it didn’t appear to actuate when I tested it against the battery. However, I was annoyed because the valve that I removed was supposed to be an OEM valve installed by the mechanic, but it appeared different than the images I found online. I ordered another one, and when it arrived, I immediately noticed that when you shake it, you can feel something moving inside it, where the “failed” valve had no movement.

I replaced the valve, with the one I ordered but found that the truck was still unable to build pressure and was <200psi. I air tested the system and found it was leaking again on the driver side. I went ahead and pulled it apart again, and surprisingly the upper o ring on the stand pipe had blown apart again. I installed a new stand pipe on that side, and got her running again. The pressure is getting over 2000psi when starting, but there is a significant delay when starting it, and it seems like the IPR may not be. Closing immediately, and when I’m accelerating it will suddenly surge.

So, a few questions:

Is the surging acceleration likely due to the new IPR valve being defective?

Could the previous IPR valve have siezed when it started to separate and caused enough pressure to build to cause the o-ring on the stand pipe to fail?

Should an IPR valve spring be able to (sort of) actuate by shaking it (detect movement) or should it seem rigid?

Could excess pressure have caused the IPR valve to physically separate from the solenoid?

Is there a more reasonable explanation why both IPR valve and standpipe, which were both new, would have failed seemingly at the same time?

I'll try to describe this the best I can. First of all the hub vacuum lock doesn't work so I have to manually lock hubs. Once in 4x4 high, the transfer case engages. While driving I get a weird pulling to the left and/or right hap harzardly. Sometimes pulling to the left or right so bad it will steer the truck off the pavement. I'm thinking hub replacement is needed. Truck has 150,000 miles. Very seldom ever drove in 4x4 mode.

This is the first engine I am learning my way around so I can use all the help I can get. Please explain things to me like the newbie that I am. 

Relevant items:

• The Van hasn't been started in 2 years
• Installed two brand new batteries yesterday
• I have dropped the fuel tank, during that process I disconnected the fuel lines

The problem:

Yesterday after hooking up the new batteries I was able to start the van. Once I got the engine running I let it chug along. After a minute or so the engine started running hard, seeming to misfire. Then I heard some significant knocking, at that point I quickly turned the engine off. 

I proceeded to confirm that the engine had oil, that the oil does not smell like gasoline, that the fuel tank was full (3/4), that there was transmission fluid and then emptied the water separator. 

After running through all those check I went to restart the engine. To my horror the engine won't fire up. I can hear it turning over but it just wont catch.

Any help and guidance is deeply appreciated.

I'll keep y'all updated as I tick through the suggestions. 

My dad gave me his old truck (2001 F350) as a project, I'm rebuilding it, but the bed and cab are garbage after several accidents and modifications, so

How difficult would it be to adapt a cab and bed from a 2019 F350?

My dad's truck is usually used as the family vehicle whenever anyone needs to tow/move anything. We have had this truck from new, he used to tow a big 5th-wheel camper with it. These days he just tows a boat with it ~5000 lbs. He thinks he has a bad injector cup, I believe a leaking injector and/or the glowplugs are going bad. With Christmas coming up I was thinking of getting him a "1998-2003 Ford Powerstroke 7.3L injector sleeve cup replacement kit w/ glowplugs and controller" from Diesel Logic. I can change an engine in a gas car and know the reputable brands but I have no clue about diesel. The symptoms we are trying to eliminate are:

• after running glowplugs for 1.5 min (sub 50 f) - black smoke ~7-10 sec
• after running, sitting for ~30 min, cranks for a while - lots of smoke
• turn off, immediately try to start, cranks a while, starts up - no smoke
• accelerate from 10-12 psi of boost to 30 psi - lots of smoke
• go from low boost to ~15 psi boost lays over, high then low egt - then the charger spools pulls, no smoke throughout

I know these all seem like regular diesel things, demand power, need fuel to make power. These were never an issue till ~3 years ago and have progressively gotten worse. The thing that makes me think a part is going bad is, if you were at a dead stop and lock the truck in second, floor it, there is absolutely no smoke. This makes the smoke issue from 10 psi to 30 psi more confusing because the turbo is already spooling. I think it is a leaky injector due to the circumstances where it seems to get "bogged". The injectors and glowplugs seem more likely to going bad rather than the injector cups due to their more high-demand wear? I cannot afford brand new injectors but would this kit from Diesel Logic be a good start? Are they a reputable company for things not as high demand as injectors?

I found a used 2013 F350 6.7 , owner took it in to the dealership recently and had them replace the CP4 and EGR cooler . I spoke to the service advisor at the dealership and they said that the CP4 had not failed to the point they saw metal when replacing fuel filters. Is there a way the fuel system could still be at risk after the CP4 has been replaced? Should I have any reservations about purchasing this?

I would like some driving analysis help:

Today I drove my 2006 6.0 F350 up to the mountains with windy, narrow, curvy roads. The whole drive was rather steep but it was only about 50 degrees out. The hottest my temps got was EOT: 215 ECT: 210 but it would get back down to EOT: 185 and ECT: 178 so it would fluctuate depending on load. Is this normal?

Also noticed the FICM voltage fluctuated between 47.5 V to 49.0 V but never above or below that range. Is 47.5 something to be worried about?

I shimmed all of the injectors on Thursday and then filled the HPOP to help it build pressure.

It still wouldn’t start, after 4 full battery charges. My ICP builds pressure over 500 and IPW to over 2.0 and cranks at 200rpm

I tested the UCHV and that checked out and the harness from the IDM to injectors and that was good too

After I couldn’t get it started I pulled one injector to check if it had continuity. And oil, diesel drained out of it.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated!

fuel pump module b control circuit/open f350 What could it be or where is this located

My neighbor has decided it’s time to part with his 2001 f250 7.3 power stroke. Currently has just under 150k miles, long bed extended cab. Interior is in pretty good shape. I know these hold their value really well especially with lower miles. Any idea of what it might be worth? I may make him an offer

My neighbor has decided it’s time to part with his 2001 f250 7.3 power stroke. Currently has just under 150k miles, long bed extended cab. Interior is in pretty good shape. I know these hold their value really well especially with lower miles. Any idea of what it might be worth? I may make him an offer

While in doing all my HPO seals I decided to change out to new looms.

FICM is the smaller one at the top. Main engine harness is the big one at the bottom.

Haven't laid out the main harness yet, but I noticed I'm gonna have to work on the FICM harness a bit to get it to fit.

Cheers gents!

Hey yall,

Bought a used 2020 F250 and it currently has the nitro 4.30 gears in the rear diff. It’s due for its last drain and fill for the break in period. Which fluid/oil is recommended for this?

2005 6.0, issue started today. Was driving through town, about 30-35mph, and the engine kept cutting out for a split second and recovering, noticed RPM needle drop every time it did it. Turned around and headed back home, completely died on me going down the road at 30mph, didn't lose 12v power, coasted to the shoulder, started right up, drove home fine. Sat in the driveway and idled/revved fine.

No recent work done. About a year and a half ago I did injectors, glow plugs, glow plug harness, glow plug controller, ficm power supply, and new tunes.

No codes, nothing leaking, nothing else out of the ordinary. Didn't notice anything out of the ordinary with high oil pressure or fuel pressure while the issue was occurring. Ficm voltage is fine.

Any ideas on what to check, that wouldn't throw a CEL? So far my only idea is to let it idle in the driveway and move around some plugs/harnesses to see if that's the issue (thinking ficm harness and cps harness?). If it were the ficm or cps themselves, I'd imagine I'd be throwing a code for it.

Edit: Truck is deleted and studded.

115k miles on a 2015 F-350. Meticulously maintained. This is the first engine check light I’ve had. Curious if something needs replaced or will fail.

Truck has been getting “Service Advancetrac”, “hill decent control fault”, and the traction control light for a few months now. Before it would come on randomly and then go away at highway speeds, but now it turns on every time the truck moves. I’ve already checked the connector by the parking brake, everything seemed fine, made sure it was plugged in all the way and undamaged

I took it to the dealer, they thought it was the TPMS control module, wanted $2k to replace it. Took it somewhere else and they replaced it for half the price. No change to the issue and recommended that the RCM be replaced.

Just replaced the RCM and had it programmed and whatnot and still didn’t do anything. I decided to pull codes last night and it is now showing under ABS: U1A00-87 “Private Communication Network - Missing Message - Current DTC - Warning Lamp On.” Called a family member who is a firetruck mechanic and they have quite a few 6.7’s in their fleet and he’s saying it’s probably the ABS control module

Is the ABS control module the issue? Really tired of getting the runaround with mechanics trying to hunt down this issue and wanted to see if any of you guys had some input

Hello everyone

I went out to start my truck this morning & when it started and went into high idle like normal my frame mounted pump/filter was super loud like I could hear it in my garage 25 feet away from my truck. It quieted back down to normal once my truck stopped idling at 1100 rpm. Is this anything to be worried about? Live in MN so it’s currently 18 but probably got down a few degrees colder last night? Relatively new fuel filters maybe 2500 miles on them.

2001 f350 has a rebuilt transmission new starter and alternator, and a new Mishimoto trans. cooler. drove the truck 62 miles and was going 30 when all of a sudden the trans started to shift weirdly and not want to move pulled over restarted the truck drove fine parked went into a store came out went to put it in reverse wouldn't go restart the truck and it finally worked drove back home parked and still having issues with it moving when sitting at idle for a few minutes or after coming to a stop. any ideas?

2015 6.7 power stroke 300k miles. The truck runs and starts just fine. I found this in my lower fuel filter. I’m considering the disaster prevention kit or the DCR conversion kit. What do you think?

2019 6.7 full weight loss. Have SOTF but want to run single power tune. What position should I leave the switch in when loading the single tune file?

need help finding oem heads for an 03-05 6.0 engine called my local dealer and they said they arent being made anymore, anyone know where i could get some ??

Saw this and was positive the price had to be a typo.

Not a typo. 🤦

Got this nice sounding nice running truck last night 183K on the odometer. Speedometer is out and ABS light is on. I still need to get a good code reader but other than that no lights. Either I’m too dumb to disengage the rear child safety locks or they’re jammed somehow.

Brand new sct x4 have pre loaded tunes right? If I have an x4 that's from 2016, before alphabet agencies got involved, would it be able to put a truck on a diet? The pre loaded software, can it turn off things for weight loss?

Hey everyone i have a 1997 f250 heavey duty 7.3 powerstroke. Just replaced my rear tank and sending unit and now my front tank has quit working. Do I need a new sending unit or is my selector valve going bad and how could I check to make sure. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated

Can they start fine in the winter if everything is in check glowplugs injectors so on