Hello,

I'm in research mode, plan to build a 350 6.7 HO SRW (maybe DRW) near the end of the year, for the purpose of towing a fifth wheel. I am trying to find a solid source of data for curb weights and max payloads. I know that these will depend on trim level and options and the like, but I can't really seem to find any solid source of information for the 2024 model year. I would have expected this info to be found in their towing guide, but alas, no. So the question is, where can I get reliable information on max payload and curb weights for the 350s?

Of course, if my view is too narrow, or further info is needed to help me with this, please.let me know!

I recently bought a 1985 F250 and the previous owner said it used to start from the key but he blew a fuse to the starter relay and now it won't. Since then, I've replaced the fuse, starter solenoid, ignition switch, and ignition lock cylinder. When I insert the key, the glow plug light comes on but there's no humming and it doesn't turn off, and when I turn into start position, the rpm gauge goes to about 3k rpms, then drops to 2k when I turn back to off. Any help would be appreciated, I'm kinda running out of ideas on what it could be

Does anyone know what this wire is for? Was hooked onto the relay where I circled, as soon as I hook the batteries up and turn the key on, it melts and pops off. Just did an engine rebuild and the wiring on this thing was a mess so I'm trying to clean it all up. Thanks!

Hello all I'm a diesel/ performance mechanic. I'm a very small youtuber by chance if I made a video how-to removal and install video would any of yall be interested? (Currently waiting on turbo)

2012 f250 lariat, 133,000 miles, listed for $29,900

I haven’t looked at it in person, but looks to be in really good shape from the pictures. All emissions equipment is still on the truck according to dealer. Thoughts?

There is an oil leak coming from under the drivers side exhaust manifold, anyone know what the part is? and on average how much it costs for someone to do it?

So I’ve had my fair share of trucks. Mostly 7.3’s and Cummins. Was in market for another 7.3. Found this super clean 1 owner F-350 6.0 with 130k miles, local and a solid service history. I’m a mechanic by trade (VW/Audi/Porsche) So nothing really scares me about it. Just from research I’ve done seems some say a good maintained stock unit is solid then some want them bulletproofed and deleted. This is purely going to be used to tow my cars (volkswagens) around and haul stuff for my shop.

Am I good to keep it stock or should I go in and bulletproof it ? Not looking to make it crazy just reliable and solid tow unit. Thanks in advance lads

Hey all, new 7.3 owner here, on a 2002 F350:

I just popped the hood to give the engine some once-overs before dinner.

I started the engine to test for blow-by (all good there) and I felt quite a lot of air coming from the engine bay on the passenger side. It was also noticeable on the driver's side, to the rear of the engine bay. It's pretty dark out now (going by flashlight) so I'll look more into it tomorrow, but I just wanted to see if this was normal.

Could this be the fan? Any tips are appreciated! I'll be able to diagnose better tomorrow during the daytime, and on Monday I'll be bringing the truck by the shop for a tune-up and inspection.

What does everyone think this truck is worth?

First off, I'm not a gearhead, and I could have definitely been more knowledgable and prepared at times with my truck.

2011 F-350 6.7 w/ 155,000 miles. Purchased 4 years ago. Bought it with certain parts taken out and tuned.

For the first 3.5 years I had the truck, I used the same shop. They never did me wrong, were always fair, but didn't work on certain aspects of my truck. They wouldn't even do a state inspection for me. I wanted to see if I could make some improvements to performance, and I thought that might require finding a new shop. So I went to another shop on the suggestion of a friend that was a customer. Went to the new shop, had them do some basic maintenance that I had needed, and some additional replacements as well. I had developed an oil drip over the past year or so, Shop #1 always said it was the upper oil pan leaking, while Shop #2 diagnosed it as the lower oil pan and suggested a swap. Against my gut, I agreed to the replacement. Sure enough, the oil drip persisted. Took into Shop #2, they recognize upper oil pan problems, and offer to take $200 off the tab. Bothered me a little bit but not too big of a deal.

So not long after I get my truck back from the shop. I start noticing a different feel to how the truck is shifting. I chalked it up to the service on the transmission that was performed, and maybe it was just the way it was going to be moving forward. Service was in August, and by mid-October, I started noticing some bigger issues shifting and how the truck was running. I was busy prepping to leave the country, so unfortunately, my truck wasn't too high on the priority list. 2 Days before I leave the country, my truck limps home, couldn't get it above 40mph, zero turbo pressure. I got home and started doing whatever basic diagnosis and homework I could, while spending time with my wife and kids before I leave. No big noise, no oil everywhere, wasn't blowing white smoke. So I didn't think the turbo went. Cleaned, then replaced the MAP sensor. Still no joy. I leave the country thinking I'll find a mobile diesel mechanic that can at least diagnose the issue, fix it if it's a minor issue, or give me the suggestion to tow it to a shop. While away, I find out one of the mechanics at work also moonlights as a diesel mech. It's a hobby and side hustle. Solid. I get ahold of him, he asks some basic questions, and offers to give it a look. Turns out to be a little more complex of an issue than first thought. After throwing it on the lift and getting into the fuel system, my man tells me that he found some metallic flakes, and that it could be the CP4. Shit. Informs me of the costly repairs and suggests thinking about off-loading the truck. With my basic knowledge of the vehicle, and what I had experienced after my truck was in the shop. I'm left wondering if the issues with the CP4 began before or after the fuel filters were replaced in August. If the issue was already happening, would there not have been signs during the maintenance work? Could the CP4 failure been caused by poor service, air in the system?

I've decided that I am going to repair the truck. I've gotten rid of trucks in the past when they needed repairs, and I regretted it. Additionally, it'd be hard to off-load a busted truck for an amount of money that leads to another reliable truck. I'm curious if anyone has dealt with a similar situation, and whether they went back to the shop with issues, or sought different/new shop.

TL;DR Truck might be screwed. Do I go back to the truck where it might have received poor service to let the shop know or head to different/new shop?

Cheers!

The front driver side axle won’t unlock I already replaced the locker and it still hits 40 and the front axle makes a god awful noise and makes a slight vibration that feels internal any suggestions will help me out real big

Ive read that temp difference between ECT and EOT should be about 15 degrees. I live at a mild climate to cold in winter times. On the highway at 75 my temps read about 170 ECT and 200 EOT. Not too high of temps (from what i read in forums) but still a big difference. Is this definitely a oil cooler starting to fail or coild it be something else. If it is an oil cooler, can I add an air cooled one without replacing the current one. I have a coolant filter that i will be installing once i get time, but i dont know if thats saving me at this point.

My vin is 1ftsw30f7xed53331 When I run my Vin on Ford’s website I get back that my truck is a srw but I have a DRW. It’s a 1999 f350 7.3l. My GVWR sticker is 9900lbs which for the DRW it’s listed as higher for DRW with the 7.3l. Still trying to figure out if this is a mistake from factory or if someone “converted” it to a dually afterwards?

Has anyone else had their stickers/vin not quite line up with what your truck is?

Noticed this broken connection here today. Need some help identifying what the connection is. Have noticed slight reduction in power recently when towing, but no check engine light. 97 Powerstroke. Thanks

Heys guys my truck is leaking oil from the lower intercooler boots on both sides, but I’m not sure why they are brand new boots and they are tight but for some reason there is oil on the outside of them and on my frame as well, I’m going to be taking them off this weekend to see if there’s excess inside the pipes but what could the reason for this be?

Hello all, I was wondering what is the most likely culprit of a big oil leak when cold starting. I didn’t have this issue until it dips below 20 degrees. It does clear up once the motor gets to temp. Thanks!

Fuel gauge moves upon start up then goes straight to empty. bad cluster? Sending unit?

My 1996 F250 with 7.3 e4od lugs/stalls when I put it in reverse and low 1 once the transmission is warmed up, it does not do it cold. I have dropped the pan, replaced the filter, added a filter clip, changed the fluid and replaced the cps.

After doing this the truck then only stalled in reverse when warm going from D->R or D->1. This lasted around a thousand miles and has started stalling in R and 1 from any gear when warm.

I have read the next step would be to read the line pressures, but from what I can tell symptoms are pointing to a bad pump. Torque Converter seems to lock up great and doesn’t shift hard or erratically, not ruled out but doesn’t seem likely.

The truck did run pretty low on fluid which seemed to start all this. It doesn’t leak a drop, so could assume it overheated and dumped the fluid? I do not tow, only highway driving, sometimes I’ll do 75+ but not overly hard on it.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? What does a transmission shop do to diagnose this problem?