https://preview.redd.it/gaqpm26kfz1e1.jpg?width=400&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b4a56e608745aeef55e2f9b7a32b2bf0c3626fa

I am looking to upgrade my radio from this to something that has carplay, I have a 2020 Ram 1500 Classic. Does anyone know any good carplay radios that will fit nicely and are quite decent for a pretty good price, I am not looking to spend more than $500 bucks. thank you in advance.

I stopped sitting at idle with the AC running to eat my lunch after I learned about the known HEMI issues early on (maybe 2021).

I tow my 5k lbs boat and trailer maybe 400 miles a season. Feels like it shudders whenever I tow in the winter (to winterize my boat). That’s the only time I notice it and I made an appointment to diagnose it with tech while I’m still under 8 year MOPAR warranty.

@ 29k miles I did: drive line service, transfer case fluid, brake fluid,

@ 40 miles I did: coolant flush

I want to do a trans flush and BG fuel system service before my MOPAR warranty expires. I have only ever used mid grade fuel. I’ve got about 18 months remaining.

What do I do to keep this truck healthy?: Check timing chain? Check for exhaust leaks? Check for manifold bolts cracks? Replace lifters? Replace exhaust bolts? Switch to aluminum manifolds? Upgrade the oil pump?

I wanted to show off my first vehicle. It's a 2014 Express trim I think. Got it used with 130,000 miles on it. Previous owner is very good friends with my Dad. He was on top of the maintenance so it's running amazing. Only real issue the condensation in the headlight and the very tiny bit of rust. Got it for a really good deal. Lucked out real well for my first vehicle

Pretty well maintained. 200k on a gas…I know. Today, it did the “check engine light flashing” rather than it just staying on. Codes thrown: P0300 P0420 P0430 P000B P0014 Check engine light was not on prior to today. I’ve looked all the codes up, just looking for some insight or someone to put them in more layman’s terms. Thanks in advance, y’all. I have a minimal amount of wrenching experience.

It's like a lurch or bump or sound or combo of all three hard to describe. Happens when coming to a stoplike after the brakes slow it to a stop and the truck then settles backward. It happens again after letting off the brake to accelerate. It doesn't always happen. I was thinking suspension but then put it in neutral and came to a stop and it seemed like it wasn't as bad. After sliding around underneath discovered passenger rear lower control arm bushing needs replaced. Couldn't move it but seemed that there was a gap in it. Other than that nothing obvious. The front driver lower control arm bushing has a creak sound but no play in it. U joints appear fine and solid when pushing and pulling g it in neutral. You guys have any ideas.

Looks like my coolant temp is high based on the numbers alone but the gauge looks normal. Anyone run into this? Or is it normal?

Few weeks ago my truck came up with this check engine code. Finally got around to clearing the code on Sunday and then today it came back. Where should I start looking to solve this?

i have a camshaft position intermittent code showing up after replacing sensor, plugs and coils.

first came 3 months ago, replaced sensor(autozone), then returned couple weeks ago.

replaced coils, plugs and sensor( autozone)

wanted to hear if anyone else had these symptoms before and what it could be

Hey y’all! I bought a used 2019 Ram 1500 classic Big Horn V8 Hemi 5.7 last week. I love it, it’s a major upgrade over my 2004 single cab F-150 jalopy. That’s not relevant, but I’m excited to share.

There’s a cigarette smoke smell in the interior and I haven’t had any luck getting rid of it so far. I’ve heard using an ozone generator will work, and they’re cheapish on Amazon.

Does anyone have experience with that? Or have any other tips/tricks?

Thanks!

Any thoughts on if leveling pucks could make this happen? Was replacing the cv axle, didn’t even mean to find it.

So the other day, I was talking crap to my dad about his ‘23 Tundra that’s constantly in the service department for recalls or to get something broken fixed. Well, five minutes later karma got me and I broke the driver side sun visor off of my truck while rotating it to the side.

So my question is, my factory visor had no mirror and illumination on the driver side, but the passenger side does. If I buy a replacement illuminated visor, is the wiring there to plug it into? 2023 1500 Big Horn, I do have the overhead console with lights and switch for sliding rear window, so there’s power up there somewhere.

Has anyone ever swapped their 8.4 inch UC radio for the 12 inch UC radio? If so, how much of a pain in the ass is it to do as a DIY project?

Looking to get a 2025 Ram 1500 Tradesman v6 etorque crew cab 4x4. It's MSRP at the dealer is $52,305, but it has discounts and the dealer sale price is now $40,805. Assuming OTD is Dealer price +10%(~4100), what would be a good OTD price to request to start of negotiations. Would asking $36,000 OTD be a good starting point?

So I got my truck in 2018 and it was running fine until last August when the lifters/cam went out. Paid $2600 to get it replaced only for it to go out again last week. Truck is paid off, so I really don't want to get anything new, but think it may be the right choice. It's currently at 170k miles, was bought at 111k. Any thoughts?

Hey all,

I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 2500 with the last of the 5.9 Cummins.
Been having a weird issue with the security system and I am hoping that it's the WCM going bad.
After installing the new WCM I use alfOBD to transfer the secret key from PCM and receive a - "failed. Conditions not correct or request sequence error."
I'll get this error when trying to do anything in that section related to needing the PIN, so transferring secret key to PCM or trying to reprogram keys.

This issue isn't experienced with the original WCM.
Although sometimes I'll get an issue with current WCM that says PIN incorrect even though I am using the correct PIN.
I'm thinking that has to do with the WCM failing though?

Any help on this matter would be appreciated.

Where do I begin? 2025 Laramie 1500 purchased almost a month ago.

Towed the first weekend I had it.

Key Fob not Detected - Pressing Key against the start button not working - key FOB often won’t even unlock/lock/remote start.

Replaced both batteries the first time this happened. Took it to the dealership and they “fixed” the problem.

Was given the “RAM Card” they didn’t give me when I bought the truck - they hadn’t received it yet according to them, but it was the first 2025 they got on the lot and sold within 2 days.

Problem started almost immediately again. Not replacing the batteries again, but now the card solves the problem. Great. But I’d like to use my key fobs. Using my phone or using the card isn’t my favorite option, those are meant to be options but not the only option.

Has anyone else had this issue and they didn’t get it fixed? Have a few days before I can return the truck outright, and I’m struggling because I’ve always had mopar but never had this issue. My Charger had all the same features and I never once had this problem.

Struggling with decision. Is there an RF or some other antenna that they should be replacing or are these FOBs just absolute shit?

Has anyone here ever installed clearance lights on top of the cab of their 1500? Love the look of them, just not sure if there’s a tried and true method to it. Any insight is helpful

I'm getting a 2017 ram 3500, it's got 33x12.50R20 AT but the stock wheel size is 275 70 R18. I bought some 18s, unfortunately the rubber on them is 4 years old, but the tire brand and model have good reviews. Firestone winterforce LT.

My question: I'll be doing winter driving. I don't want to have to replace ball joints right away and the impression I get is by running 33s and 20 inch rims, it's gonna put a lot of ware on the front.

Looking for some advice from more experienced ram 3500 owners as to wheel size for winter driving and potential excessive/unnecessary ware on the front end

Thank you

https://store.mopar.ca/oem-parts/mopar-lift-kit-p5155797

Looking at this kit for my truck. Very new to truck modifications so I’m wondering if this is something that wouldn’t cause issues + if there are any parts to add to this kit that would make it work better. It says production geometry is maintained so I’m wondering if UCA’s or any brake line extensions or rear sway bar relocation is needed with this. Thanks

Hi! I have been leasing Ram 1500s for the last 6 years. I am on my second truck it is the 2022 1500 Laramie Hemi etorque. All the bells and whistles minus the big screen. I am leasing it right now paying $500 a month. My lease is up in the beginning of summer and my buyout is $36k. I will have roughly 30k miles when my lease is up. Does it make sense to buy the truck? I am tired of leasing and just want to buy something and take care of it. I do my oil changes regularly w full synthetic pennzoil.

Also, is it possible to negotiate a lease by out price? Leased through Chrystler capital.

Just want to get some experienced thoughts! Thanks guys!

The MSRP listed for this gorgeous truck is about 89K. What should be a good deal look like? Will the dealer be able to go 15% below MSRP? I'll be financing, making some down, and also trading in another vehicle. I'll ask them obviously but want to get my expectations set before visiting them.