/r/Duramax
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/r/Duramax
2014 lml deleted/tuned with a 60hp tow tune, stock other wise. It’s gotten cold recently 20-40* outside temps. I do let the truck warm up for a minimum of 5 mins before I take off but recently noticed when I put it in drive I get a clunk/jerk the first time I put it in gear. Trans temp is anywhere from 30-50* when it has happened. It has never done this yet when temps were over 40* outside. Haven’t got the chance to check fluid level yet but external filter was just changed 3k ago and fluid topped off then. Anyone ever have this issue or any opinions on if it’s normal or not?
I bought a 2015 2500 duramax Z71 brand new and only have 110k miles on it and I'm about to rebuild the ENTIRE front end for the second time. I love this truck but I'm seriously thinking of selling it because the front end is so loose. Everything is stock except Bilstein 4600 and MOOG parts in the front end from the last rebuild at ~65k and sulastic shackles in the rear with the 1.5" rear drop. I run Cooper Discoverer at 55psi all round when not towing. I hit Colorado trail heads 15-20 times a year no major offroading. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Halogen:
-Keeps the reflector nice and warm so snow doesnt build up.
-Has a great color for snowy roads
-Doesnt blind yourself in a blizzard.
-Doesnt blind other drivers.
-Does have a cool filament with pressurized gas inside because its real physics.
-Still made in Europe (philips) and has real western quality
LED:
-Girly blue hue
-Can't keep itself warm in snowy weather
-Blinds other drivers in an constant emotional rage
-Jealous of the UV spectrum of an Halogen chad light.
-Says it can go 20.000 hours but only lasts 1200 hours.
-Made in China no refunds
In the giving spirit of the holidays! If your tuner has gone out of business, your unhappy with the customer service and/or support after purchase, or you just want the security of being able to have the tune saved in case something happens to the tuner/shop. Send me an email (sap-effete.04@icloud.com) of the tune in .ctz or .hpt format with description year/make/model and I’ll unlock your tune file and send it back, free of charge. And for anyone that has a negative opinion, I, like many people don’t enjoy purchasing something and it still isn’t mine and if something happens poof money wasted.
I’m sure the subject has been brought up before, but I figure it’s always good to get to the latest opinions.
I’m looking to buy my wife either a Yukon XL or a suburban and I’d like to know your guys’s opinion on the different engines. What are the pros and cons of each? And are there any noticeable differences in performance? Also, if anyone absolutely loves their engine choice and would not go the other way for any reason, please tell me why.
We test drove a Yukon with the mini max about a year ago, and I absolutely loved it, but I may be a little biased in my views. I already have a vehicle that could tow just about anything I would need, so if there’s a difference in towing capacity, that would be negligent.
My wife will be using this to tote our kids around to sports practices and to and from school and this would be our new vehicle of choice for a long road trips which we do fairly frequently. We will most likely be going with either a Denali or high country trim, and somehow I’ve been convinced that buying a new vehicle is not a bad decision however anything 2021 and up is on the table for purchase.
side bar If anyone has a preference towards either suburban or Yukon XL that’s based in personal experience please feel free to share that as well as any information will be helpful in this decision.
Thanks in advance!
So on this particular unit, the valve lash had actually tightened up and was causing a whooping noise back through the intake. Otherwise when they run loose They will Make a clapping noise.
I disassembled, replaced the LHS lower valve cover as well and re-lashed valves on the driver and the repair was successful.
I have seen quite a few of the LMM/LML trucks with broken rocker arms though. And some when they have I’ve run away or over speed condition I’ve seen a lot of bent push rods bent valves that kind of stuff. Keep your rev limiters folks, V8 diesels aren’t meant to rev to 5000.
Hot hot does your transmission get while plowing snow? How hot is too hot?
Hi all,
I’ve got an LMM duramax and just today noticed a bit of a harsher clacking noise coming from the passenger side of the engine vs the driver side. Was wondering if im just hallucinating or maybe it’s a valve train issue or something. It sounds more of like a high pitched tapping vs. the standard diesel clack. Please see attached two videos (b&w is driver side bank and the regular color video is the passenger side that’s making the clacking).
Thanks!
Like it says, I got a low quality warning for my def fluid. I'm wondering if sitting at -20 for a few days will cause this? I Just drove 90 Miles at 70 mph and no warning, went to store, came back out and warning light is on? It went away after I started moving. + 20 now outside. Should I drain the crap that's in there and add fresh stuff? I filled it about 10 days ago from a local "pump" and this is the first time I've seen this, truck has 42000 miles. 6.6 Duramax HD Premium. Thanks for any input, I will go to the manual as well.
just bought efi live ppei tune kit with the whole dsp5 switch. Just wondering since it says will only work with non deleted trucks will i need to find other tunes to work?
Truck sat for 4 years. She fired off drives around. Just installed new lights and bumper. Grille coming in this week. Having some issues with tcm communication and abs module flashing on and off. When this all is happening the turn signals in the mirrors faintly flash as well as the gear selector bar comes and goes, along with door locks working from park to drive and vice versa. It tries to go into range shift inhibited. No limp modes yet. Years back right before she was parked I blew a brake line and never purged the module. I need to check fuses, nsbu, and ebcm ground try to isolate what it is if that doesn’t fix it might send the tcm off to get refurbed
I have a 2007 lbz. It has a 5 stage efi switch. The truck seems to want to almost continue to rev/ gain a bit of rpms shifting out of 2nd I think. It seems to get worse if the tune is at a more advanced level. Trans fluid is almost clear/yellow looking.
Trying to decide if it’s the transmission is going bad or if I have lame tunes. I don’t think the tunes are janky tho. But it is possible. Maybe it’s a power/torque converter. I clearly and not a mechanic. Any insight is greatly appreciated.
The family and I were driving to NM today, and my def warning went off showing 999 miles left, gauge showing 1 bar more than Half a tank. Is there a know issue with def level sensors and is there a way to clean them without replacing the entire tank?
I’ve had this issue for awhile now and it’s highly annoying. I know that weight reduction is the ultimate goal.
Is denso oem for l5p duramax injectors and hp4 pump, I thought ac delco was oem?
Does anyone know if the trick to programming a new fob without the dealer by holding the unlock door button and turning the ignition on off 3 times actually works?
So I get about 16mpg on my duramax on the highway. Its bone stock aside from a straight pipe and a little turbo resonator cover. Atleast as far as I can tell. So im looking for a tune that assists in fuel efficiency without compromising too much power, aswell as causes no issues. I want one thats made by a proffesional and has a good reputation for not causing any issues. I feel like since its straight piped and diesels dont need the backpressure I have a fair bit to gain here.
Also wondering if even if I did run into issues with one if I could revert back to the stock setup with ease?
Started smelling fuel recently and found the source today. Anybody know what this part is? It’s under the factory plastic intake elbow above the passenger side fuel rail/valve cover.
Would anybody here be opposed if I put together some how to/tech/diagnostic/repair information and randomly post it on here just to get things fired up, or to answer the questions nobody thinks about or asks?
Replaced the transmission and torque converter with built transmission and TC from RevMax. Transmission went into shift inhibited mode and will not shift into gear. It happened while driving the truck slowly around the block after the install. Driving slowly to make sure all the air was out, checking fluid level/topping it off, and seeing how the shift points were. Shifts were a bit jerky and there were some noises until the fluid worked its way through the transmission and converter. Since it I couldn’t get it into gear, and I don’t have a full scanner to diagnose, I had it towed to a diesel shop. They have a tech 2 scanner and I wanted them to put it into relearn. They can’t get it out of shift inhibited or get it into relearn mode. Any ideas what could be going on?
Just bought an 08 LMM with 230k on it. It has P0401 EGR code. Just wondering how to clear code without doing delete and tune don’t have money for delete and tune atm. Also will driving with code hurt my engine?
So my truck broke down 5 hours into 11 hour ride.It was slow to start 1x, then wouldn't start 4 4 hours. Started and ran for one hour then pretty much was never started again I have changed the fuel filter the fuel filter hoses installed lift pump righ now waiting on a fuel pressure regulator plug for the valve and a little horseshoe hoses are right there above them somebody help
149k on it with just a few cosmetic things wrong with it. Mechanically its perfectly fine. Its been painted on the driver side rear bumper (decent paint job), headlamp cover is missing and trailer brake module is broken. Only other thing is the CV axle on the driver side is leaking a little bit. They're asking $19.5k any thoughts or recommendations?
Is this worth 1200? Also has sinister diesel fuel filter kit. For an 08 duramax located in Oregon
Looking to get a diesel truck never had one, really like the serria/silverado 2500 duramax! Looking for 2017-2019. Any advice on what to look out for! Thanks
So when i bough my 03 3500, i had a ton of stuff done. injectors, all steering, all suspension, etc. My concern is the serpentine belt. I put one on and it ate it( i know its a common thing). Shop changed all the pulleys, only thing the belt touches that hasnt changed is the crank.
Was on a short run, and it tried to eat the belt again. Stopped and trimmed it ( still over half the belt left),
When i went to change it, i couldnt move the tensioner ( i carry a 18" breaker bar for this reason). Shop said its supposed to be that tight, but ive NEVER had one so tight i couldnt use a breaker and create enough pressure to remove a belt.
Is the shop correct? Did they put on the wrong size? theres only 1 inch between the 105amp alt belt and the 145 amp belt size, obviously the dual alternator belt is like a foot longer. Or am i just a weakling lol?
I live in the northern US and temperatures can routinely drop below 0. From what I understand the L5P warms the fuel at the filter. My question is with the CP4 and the return, will it warm the rest of the tank? It sleeps in a heated garage, I’m just curious about running #2 vs #1 if it sits outside all day. I also use BG HP+ fuel conditioner. TIA