I also dislike when people hide chaffed hydraulic hoses with a chunk of silicon heater hose or other types of anti chafe things.

I have a Volvo with a d13 and my oil pressure is building slower than usual and takes roughly 10 minutes to get to normal pressure. This did not occur last winter. When the engine is warmed up or when I'm driving the pressure is good. 30 at idle and 60 when driving. For cold start it would always be at 60 right away but now it's at the 50 mark. What could cause this? I have about 850k miles on the engine.

Here's a simple system I made up for my truck. Figured I'd share it with the r/DieselTechs homies in case anyone was looking to build something like this on their service trucks.

Hello all I have a 1990 3406b that has been a headache here lately wask making oil put new nozzles 3421 in place of the 3424 that was in it and new transfer pump fire it up it goes to miss firing and skipping bad could track the truck mile or so from the smoke. We retimed pump now it runs ton of black smoke no power rebuilding the afrc tomarro and was told to time then pump 17 degree counter clockwise should straighten it out any info greatly appreciated

I know it’s a long shot but anyone knows any shops hiring in Dallas tx or surrounding areas

Looking for some help here. Truck is a 2019 Western Star with a DD13 (GHG17) codes noted below. Truck has very VERY low miles (less than a thousand). Yes it really has less than a thousand miles as its been sitting since new. Its a long story for another post. Really hoping I can get some help here. I do not own a copy of diagnostic link but have been able to pull codes a couple of ways. The truck will run for about 30-60 seconds and then automatically shut down. All three engine lights are on (including red stop) AND regen light is flashing. Been after this for a week or so and have decided to ask you all for some help.

Fuel Rail pressure at Idle (800rpm): 8100-8400 psi

Fuel Rail Pressure - Desired at idle : 6900-7600 psi

Fuel Rail Pressure - deviation at idle : -800 to -1600 psi

UPDATE: Fuel Rail pressure at Idle (800rpm): 8100psi

UPDATE: Fuel Rail Pressure - Desired at idle : 5907 psi

UPDATE: Fuel Rail Pressure - deviation at idle : -2168 psi - AFTER FAILED REGEN ATTEMPT

Fuel 100% new/fresh

DEF 100% new/fresh

New Pressure Limiting valve installed 12/1/24

current codes

https://preview.redd.it/qp2pt5vcfb4e1.png?width=1425&format=png&auto=webp&s=2e783986a38ae595207e984131158dfc8be21e80

Hi everyone, trying to diagnose a BMW M47 with the vp44, cylinder 3 didn't fire at first, then I tested all outputs on the pump with an injector out of the engine, all outputs work, tested all injectors, they also all work, I proceeded to put everything back together and bam! It worked fine for 5 minutes..

Then went back to cylinder 3 not firing, I exchanged 2 injectors (2-3) and the misfire stays on the same cylinder, if I stop it it starts great for a few seconds and goes back to misfiring.

I checked how the vp44 works and it seems that there is only one pump that does pressure and then distributes it to the cylinders, so the pump itself works, can the distributor just fail?

Thanks!

Hey everyone I have a job interview tomorrow with a school bus company. It’s been a while since I’ve been on a job interview what should I wear? Boots and work clothes or should I be more dressed up?

How is it being a diesel mechanic, what field are you in(agriculture, construction, etc.). How is the day-to-day? Is it worth it?How is the toll? Do you like it?

Did an oil change, fuel filters/air filters, now the truck is in some sort of limp mode like it’s not getting air and it’s blowing fuel/fumes out of the exhaust. Newer truck in the fleet haven’t really seen it yet. Is this what these trucks do or is there something I’m missing?

Have a DD15 my fleet is getting rid of so they don’t want to spend much time troubleshooting this since it’s not really causing an issue, anyway the truck turns over and has a hiccup/surge just once then idles normal, it’s not a QCV cause it’s a month old unless bad “new” part but it doesn’t fail a fuel integrity test the way a bad QCV usually would. Anyone ever ran across this? I couldn’t run through the tests like I mentioned so I’m guessing but curious to know what it could be?

I work at an independent shop in town. Last tech I knew at the dealership has since left. This is for my personal vehicle. I’m looking for someone with access to techline to request a bcm vci update to add rpo code UF3 per UI Bulletin #82H. We have a mdi and access to acdelco tds but since we’re not dealer we don’t have techline. WILLING TO PAY TO BE ABLE TO USE A LOGIN. Thanks

I’m stuck in a shop where basically everyone is at a complete loss with electrical issues. Whether it be a broken wire in a harness or some other issue. It always goes to a dealer shop Or another shop we outsource major jobs to (engine rebuilds, ect).

I basically have no one to learn from. We have a fleet of medium duty trucks (Kenworth t680, peterbilt 579) all have the Cummins X15.

Edit: small issues like lighting we can do but basically nothing else.

I'm really torn between the two, looking at 1 inch extended anvil impacts, I'm leaning towards Milwaukee because of the weight and only takes 1 battery, but the stats of IR are pulling me in so I need your opinions

IR for $1,144 delivered, comes with 2x20v 5.0 batteries and dual charger

Milwaukee one key + 2x18v red lithium 5.0 and charger $1,075 delivered

Im on a fleet of garbage trucks and I’m looking for more training, we only run Cummins and paccar. I didn’t go to tech school for diesel. The company will pay for a lot of training but I’m wondering what kind I should do. I don’t have time to drive to a school due to hours and location. Looking at Cummins courses they offer in person in Portland. Any online courses you’d recommend? Would like to do a course for insite

So six days ago I had a driver drive a 2014 bluebird bus with the def level warning light, derate warning light and engine warning light for 120 miles. The def tank showed 81% def level, and the codes cleared themselves in two days. He says he knows it was because the def froze, but if that was the case the other bus would've had the same issues. I called GSA to have it towed to a mechanic, and an hour after it was dropped off this Tuesday, that same driver picked it up from the mechanic. He drove it again for 80 miles on Wednesday, and today I find it has a significant coolant leak in 2 places and a decent enough oil leak to leave a puddle the size of a basket ball. Are these issues probably tied together? I need something to give my manager on Monday. I feel like I'm beating my head against a brick wall with them listening when I'm telling them issues that the busses should be red lined for an don't know what to do to get them to listen. Any tips and insight is welcomed.

I have cat et and a Canadian ca3 com adapter with the cat 9 pin heavy equipment plug. I'm trying to adapt it to a 9 pin truck port and it's giving me fits.

I bought a adapter with the gray female port to the green keyed 9 pin male port. Plugged it in and comm unit wouldn't power on. Equipment style connector was wired correctly, the j1939 plug wasn't. Used a pinout to change the power and ground, moved j1939 - and plus, j1708- and + to appropriate pins on green connector. Didn't hook up CDL wires. Still wouldnt link.

After that I installed 2 120 ohm resistors between j1939 + and - and twisted the wires. I get a brief flash on 1939 and 1708 when I plug in and then it won't link.

Looking at cat #507-1011 as a fix, because apparently my imported heap o turds won't cut it.

Hey everyone! I recently purchased my first cart due to the bay situation at my new job so I wanted to ask for any tips on organizing the sockets/top section? I’m looking at the Ernst socket rails or the Westling socket trays. Also I wanted to a ask about wrench rails as well. I’m used to the v shaped wrench racks but the way my wrenches sit in these racks hit the cart and i am unable to close the drawer fully. The cart is a Macsimizer if that helps! Thanks for any advice

I might be offered a supervisor role. Tbh though im not sure i want it. Ive only been at this for 4 years, hardly an experienced hand. And the guy im replacing (who is moving into an assistant service manager role) is a tough act to follow. Originally i was going to get a dedicated fleet position with 32 trucks next year and i really want that role but im not sure what is a better spot for me.

All of the other viable candidates either dont want the position or dont want the hours. The one guy i really want for the job, the old man who trained me, is looking at retirement sooner rather than later.

Idk. I like being out on the road at night, its fun. As it is, im hesitant to be stuck at one place let alone playing babysitter for 6 grown ass idiots. I have 5 actual kids at home so the last thing i want to do is that.

On top of that i have Hogan trying to poach me for a fleet they took from our company that wants me to stay with them.

All i want to do is fiddle with trucks man. Lol

Does anybody know where you can buy plugs to blank of adblue pipes and fittings whilst carrying out maintenance on the system,I've been searching for a while but can't find any....its for an agriculture application where access to the pickup/ level sensor is pretty awful and as soon as the pipes are removed coolant starts draining out of the engine....draining the system isn't really viable so interested to hear any suggestions

Hey guys, been working on a dd13 this last week or so and am not really sure what to do next. The truck initially came in for complaints of stuttering so another tech swapped the PLV, this did not fix it so i then swapped the QCV. after doing the QCV the truck now slowly loses prime over an hour or so to the point where it will not start without a pressure bottle. I split the fuel filter housing and removed the high pressure feed lines to the rail to get better access to the QCV when i changed it. We found that with the fuel return line pulled off of the filter module all the fuel from the system would drain out over time. We just swapped the filter housing because we found the oring gasket between the 2 halves was not available for purchase to replace. The truck is still losing prime. anyone have any ideas as to what i should check next. i have verified there is no air being sucked in through any of the fuel suction line up to the filter housing inlet and i have swapped back in the original QCV and PLV.

Hi, am a diesel tech at a trucking compagny and i got a trouble on this 567. The new clutch installed last week is burnt like blueish but is still good. The truck got in cause the driver complain about a friction noise when the driver stops pushing on the fuel pedal (when the drive line comes loose, when the engine stop torquing) we changed the center bearing, the clutch (spring got loose), and the transmission was rebuild ( the 7th and 8th gear were used a lot and the aux shaft bearing were finished (18 speed eaton manual) that's when we saw the new clutch was burn when we drop de transmission. And after all this the friction noise is still going on and we dont know what to do. Any idea?

Ps : the driver drove 1 week between the new clutch install and the transmission drop. The driver does not use the clutch pedal when driving.

Pulling injectors and it catches on lifter rod cant remove it. Any ideas on how to get it past?

M2 Came in for no crank no start no ignition power out of the relay no ground at the relay jumped ground and everything powered up and it started, ohmed the ground pin to ground bus OL, got lucky on the wiggle test main ground splice had separated will probably only ever see it once but was cool to find!