On an ISX15 CM2250. Anyone ever swapped over to a T6 manifold kit and non VGT and know how it performed afterwards? Fuel mileage or power affected? Truck has been deleted so aftertreatment isn't an issue. I've seen them around but never talked to anyone that's had one done, just curious about the results

Have a Pierce fire truck that the windows were inop from the driver side. Had good 12 volt power and ground, but found no CAN network. This started after someone installed a new flashlight charger and used too long of a fucking sheet metal screw and nicked the wire which is at the right rear seat. God damn monkeys

Whats a fair price for a head job on dd15 ghg 14?

Im starting to do diagnostics and was wondering if I should by the actual softwares or figure out how to pirate them ?

my boyfriend is a diesel mechanic working from a shop but goes on service calls a lot.

he has to take the shared company pick up when he goes on service calls which means he needs something to carry his tools to and from. i found out he’s currently using this random bin with handles and everything just thrown in there… there has to be something better and i want to get it for him as a Christmas gift. which leads me to my question:

how do you guys carry tools on your service calls? any bag/box suggestions?

and on that note: are they any other gift suggestions that i can get to put in the bag/box that i get him? what sets/kits/tools are always nice to receive?

****to be specific he works on dump/garbage trucks, box trucks, and loaders/forklifts (i think)

i literally have no clue and need advice lmao thanks!

People in my area that do diagnostics say they have pirated softwares. Are they good ? Do they update as new trucks come out every year? And how do I obtain them?

I bought a laptop yesterday to start diagnosing. The issue is that I’m wondering if it can run different diagnostics softwares. I already bought the Volvo tech tool. I’ve seen people talk about getting cracked softwares and was wondering if would need multiple computer for that or just one.

I did NOT put my finger in that

I have a 13m mixer mounted on a 8x4 MAN truck. The truck has a lift axle in the middle. I have removed the middle lift axle completely.
Do i have to modify or reinforce the chassis?

The chassis is single chassis and does not currently have reinforcements added to it.
The distance now between the second front axle and the first rear axle it 4m.

Hello everyone, currently in a dilemma. Got out of trade school and a PTI grad (well aware this doesn’t mean much). Worked out of state for my first 2 years at a Peterbilt dealer with great techs. Learned a few tricks and bit about engines there. This was during the MX13 valve seal campaign. Learned how to use Davie4, ESA, and Insite decently well. Moved back to my current hometown of Chicago & started working at FedEx Freight. In the shop I’m in there aren’t techs that are great. Actually they are lazy and there isn’t much overhauling or deep diagnostic stuff that goes on. Whatever the manager can’t understand gets sent to the dealer. I don’t hate my job as the manager is pretty laid back yet has his favorites. Pretty much at top pay now with the exception of the ASE certification raise. Not too motivated on getting them even though it is a $5.50 raise. Our two ASE certified techs are terrible. One doesn’t know how to do a software update on a cummins engine (99% of the fleet are Cummins engines). And the other doesn’t even work on trucks. Just does forklift work all day. Manager refuses to teach anyone else forklift work. I’m sure its to keep forklift guy happy because if not work would quickly run out for him. I’m decently smart and smart enough to know I’m worth more than these techs even without an ASE certification. Company would reimburse me for each test I pass however, even though the pay is good I feel I am being limited in what I can learn here. Insurance doesn’t seem the best for such a well renowned company, no union, and held back in knowledge. Only positives are tool reimbursement of 1,000$ yearly, boot reimbursement of 100$ yearly, quarterly bonuses and yearly raises. What are your thoughts? What are reasons you’ve left shops? A little scared since pay is good and work is easy for the most part. Have 3 years here of the same bs. Should I go somewhere where I can learn more like overhauling engines and challenge myself? I am 28 years old and getting tired of not getting paid based off my knowledge and work ethic. While others simply show up just to collect a check. Many things wrong with this shop and manager ONLY hires guys with 1-3 years of experience and no one that is experienced enough to teach me something I don’t know. I’m guessing because techs that are experienced will quickly leave. I’d say 5 guys have quit since I got hired. It’s been steady for maybe a year now. Thoughts? Thanks on reading so far if you have I know I typed a lot I just got a lot on my mind and can’t seem to come up with a resolution.

Hey everyone! So I (21) never really got to work on vehicles much as a child due to not having a family member who worked on vehicles. I've been with a company for the last 3 months checking in rental equipment(My job role was specified for heavy, they had a separate position for the small stuff)/occasionally working on it while I've been in college for heavy duty technologies. I loved the job, up until yesterday when I was told they would be taking me away from the heavy machinery side, and instead would be putting me at our section with little pressure washers, lawn mowers, etc. We had two people who worked back there when I first started, one quit, one of them is retiring. I am considering looking for a new job in the mean time and I want to know from you guys, would you recommend that I just wait until I'm out of school? What I do not want on my resume is that I spent 9 months with the company, but 7 months of it was on non-vehicular stuff (my school also wants me to work on either cars, or heavy equipment). But I also don't want to look like a job hopper which I 100% would look like. My end goal is to go be a rental tech at cat after school (A buddy of mine works there and told me to come over after school), but do you think going through two jobs before I go there would be detrimental for my future?

I asked my lady to add some fuel conditioner into my 1999 24v Cummins while was was doing some work up front and she grabbed the wrong bottle (idk how) and added about a litre to my tank, idk if I should drain it or just try and dilute it, she added it to a full tank (132 litres) so I don’t know if it’ll do any damage. I don’t wanna run it until I get more information, if anyone knows what it will do to the engine please let me know I would be eternally grateful

Just a bit of dried DEF in the aftertreatment

I work in a shop specifically focused on fire trucks. Most of these trucks are custom made and pieced together with all kinds of different manufacturers components so finding a tool to cover everything has been rough for me. Anyone have experience with a good diagnostic tool for fire trucks? Common manufacturer’s components we work on are Cummins, Cat, Scania, Allison, International, Frieghtliner, Wabco, Oshkosh, Pierce, KME, E-One, Rosenbauer, etc. I like the idea of the Snap-On Pro Link Edge in terms of a simple and easy to use solution but I am unsure if it has the capabilities I need. Price is not an obstacle either.

I was hoping to find someone that has experience working with PTT (Premium Tech Tools) to answer a few questions about the software.

I do work for a guy that’s wanting me to help him service his fleet and was doing research on which software to buy. For some reason the software manufacturer won’t answer my questions. It’s like they want him to buy the software to find out what it will do, which is crazy.

I know PTT handles diagnosis, forced regens, resetting/recalibrating things like NOX sensors and injector balancing…all things we need for the fleet…but can it also:

1.) Be used to tune the engine? E.g. adjust fuel timing/injector pulse length and dosing, vgt actuator duty cycle, etc?

2.) Backup ECM files for each individual truck?

3.) Fully disable any DTC’s? For example we made some lighting modifications to a truck and now we keep getting alerts from the LCM that constantly block the drivers display with messages and prevent the turn signals from working. Obviously I’ll try to reprogram the LCM to accept the modifications, but if that doesn’t work we need to kill the code.

4.) Can PTT be used to disable emissions equipment? We have a Mack MP8 out of a wrecked truck that he wants to use to replace a Volvo D13 in a marine application that is emissions exempt. The motors are interchangeable after swapping some exterior components, but the ECM on the Volvo is smoked so we need to use the ECM on the MP8 along with the motor. Obviously it’s programmed for emissions and going through Volvo to replace the ECU and get the proper program costs more than the PTT that he’s probably going to buy anyway so it just makes sense to reprogram the computer we have.

I am no diesel techs, but I have decided to rebuild my Volvo Penta MD21B, which is a marninized version of a Peugeot engine. While I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but I've never done anything like this before, and am looking for a good community to ask questions in. Is this an appropriate sub to ask for much needed answers to my questions? If not, do you know of a better forum for a bold dumb sailor?

Cascadia 2017 with DD15 engine GHG17 runs rough, sounds like the regeneration started. This issue started before I deleted Dpf, scr, and def.

What I noticed is that while the engine temperature is below 125 F, runs perfectly. As soon as it goes over 125F , it starts to surge/ runs rough like jake brake is on, or, like regeneration start.

When I set rpm, for example, at 800 , and I let it run for few minutes I noticed that the Egr valve moves and engine starts to run smooth, but as soon as I touch acc pedal it starts run rough again.

Here is what i did so far. Checked Egr valve, moving freely, no sticking. When ignition On it moves open- close position. Checked Egr cooler, no clogging. Cleaned venturi pipe and delt P sensor ports. Changed delta P sensor and calibrated. Changed intake manifold temperature sensor w/ connector. Changed map sensor.

So I have been working for a new Mack Voleo dealer for a year and a half. Probably around a year they wanted to get Cummins certification so I started the online trainings. I finished those trainings months ago and I have yet to be sent out for in person trainings. I have asked my manager multiple times when that's happening and he always gives a half-assed answer. This time I asked him he said that cummins just doesn't have any trainings available this year due to the EV market fucking up their sales. We have no actually Cummins certified techs in the shop but are still expected to work on them. I have the most experience by doing the online trainings. I am just wondering if others have had similar experiences. This dealership has been an absolute cluster fuck with a bunch of other issues but that can wait for another post. Thanks!

I am a 27y/o finish carpenter, hobbyist (diesel) mechanic and really like it, and I’ve recently been considering fully switching to being a diesel tech. What advice could you all offer about transitioning and potentially starting over? Would it help me to take some ASE tests out of the gate? I would love to work at an independent shop that does a fair bit of machining, too, is that pretty common or do most shops farm that out?

I’m a diesel tech in Washington. I am getting signed up for training and my company is wanting me to sign this form before I get signed up. How well would this form hold up if I were to go to training and then quit. That’s not the plan I just don’t like “having” to stay at a place. I like the being able to leave if/when I want to.

I have an 01 LB7 that I’m going to get the head gaskets done on them. I’ve been calling different shops to get estimates and a mechanic called me today with his quote and told me that he talked to his engine guy where he would send the heads out to he he was told that LB7 heads can’t be decked/machined that I should just buy new ones incase mine are warped bad. Is that true? Why can’t they be machined?

Field tech for a grading/pipe outfit here.

Working on a WA380-7.

It started with over heating. Replaced water pump and thermostat.

Major smoking.. turbo bearing was whooped. Replaced turbo.

High crank case pressure (CA555 and CA556). Replaced KCCV filter and sensor. ( Broke sensor while inspecting/cleaning/blowing out oil hoses on the filter housing.

Oil in new turbo... Coming from KCCV air return @ intake. Pulled return hose and draining it into bucket. Capped intake port to prevent contamination.

Installed new oil filter. Inspected oil. Machine out of date by 300 hrs. Serviced machine. Found coolant in the crank case.

Inspected EGR cooler. Full of coolant all the way up to the EGR valve. Replaced.

I've ran through 2 regens. Exhaust pressure is decreasing. Started at 49psi. Down to 41psi midway through Regen #2.

Is the excessive crank case pressure due to the clogged exhaust or should I be chasing bad piston rings( pretty good smoke and pressure at oil fill port)?

Should I be replacing this KCCV housing which has the PCV that may have failed causing the KCCV to bleed oil through the turbo?

Does this ring any bells any where out there in internet land??

I have to do a carb webinar in a couple hours. Thankfully I get to do it at home. I live in another state. Anyways I was going to play drinking during the 4hrs, drinks of choice include, beer, wine, crown Royal black berry, and jack. If you can all think of some words for me to drink to. Everytime emissions is mentioned take a shot, Everytime nox is mentioned shotgun a beer. You get the drift. Also pray for me and my liver. I'm getting paid overtime to do it too.