I drive a company truck, Freightliner Coronado 2017. It has a 12.7 series 60. I live in Florida abd I and up and 75 and across i10 alot. Our trucks were governed at 75 per the owner. Well i took my truck into the shop the other day for a PM and the dumbass mechanic did something that A) messed up the speedometer so now it doesn't match my actual speed, and B) governed my truck at 73. So when I am going 73 on the speedometer I am really only going 70 and its KILLING me. Now you say just take it back by the shop, no big deal right? Well we I dont get thay way very often and when I do it's the weekend a d they are closed. So in short, is there anyone around central FL that I can pay to fix my speedometer (he changed something with the wheel ratio in the ECM) and to bump my truck back up to 75? I would be wo very grateful, thank you.

Ps when I call the dumbass mechanics they also left my coolant cap off, another time I drove off and my intercooler part came lose because they didn't tighten down the clamps, and another driver has had his WHOLE TRAMSMISSION fall out after he left our shop. So I don't use that term lightly.

I have been rocking AirPod pros for two years and they have since gotten holes burnt through the case from welding and torch slag, and everything is brown instead of white. I’m also switching from IOS to android. What do yall recommend that will stand up to the harsh shit we deal with every day?

I am a novice rebuilding my Volvo Penta MD21B (Indenor XDP 4/90 based) diesel and I'm starting to put the bottom end back together. I need to measure the liner protrusion, but I would hate to spend money on another tool I will have to sell before leaving this port. I am on a small sailboat and tool space has to be justifiable. I also do not want to wait on the delivery in Mexico.

Can I just use a feeler gauge and a straightedge? Place the straightedge across the the liner and slide feeler gauges between the straightedge and the block deck? Or is this too important not to use a dial gauge or bridge gauge?

Rebuilding 6068 out of 750j dozer, new main bolts I ordered are about 8mm longer than the originals, updated bolt or wrong part? Manual says not to reuse main bolts, anyone that has rebuilt one if you could help me out that would be great thanks

So I just changed both tank vent filters and the engine air filter. The driver side vent filter was disgusting on the outside, crud caked on. The passenger side was clean on the outside, any ideas why this would be? Both tanks drain fine and equalize fine as well.

Tractor lift cylinder go from all the way up to all the way down in about a minute. Does anybody know how to know if a tractor lift cylinder on a loader is leaking internally or if a check valve on the joystick valve is out? Cylinders have no visible leaks

This goes to the sleeper pdm latching relay on an international lt 2025

Hey folks.

Have a 12v Cummins 5.9 6bt in my buggy. Was just doing some maintenance and found a fair bit of what appears to be coolant in my crank case vent catch can.

The buggy does have water meth injection and at first I just thought it was a bit of water that got pushed through the system but it's blue and the water I found in the catch can is orange... Which is the same color as my coolant.

Oddly though, my coolant level has not changed.

Additionally, I have noticed the buggy burning more and more oil. Had to add 4 litres today in fact after only a few wheeling trips. And it's not leaking anywhere - the bottom of the engine is dry and clean and my trailer has no sign of oil on it.

Thinking HG or possibly even a crack in the head?

Other thoughts?

It's a 98 engine with +50 injectors, 4k gov springs, 60lb valve springs, exhaust springs, fuel heater delete, hx35/40 turbo, pump is stock but "turned up" and it has always had a fair bit of blowby coming from the CC venting.

I am not much of a mechanic so not going to attempt to pull the head myself, but is there anything else I could check before dragging it to a shop?

Cheers

Heyo, so my 2011 Duramax LML is knocking between 1k and 2k rpm under load. To me it sounds like a bad injector but the balance rates seem to be in spec (+4/-4). I'm on a short time like so I'm wanting to swap out the bad injector/injectors then swap them all out when I have some more free time.

What do you guys think?

Hi guys, i'm trying to buy and ship Jaltest Diagnostics to middle east but i end it up to this fake ppl (i'm not 100% sure but come on), he kept saying rhe ball in my court i mean dude i'm playing i'm literally paying thousands of dollars..

so guys where i can buy it? legally and safe and ship it to my place.( i'm new to this business and i'm just trying to check heavy vehicles and fix them with my uncle.)

Is this a normal spot for coolant to leak? It was pouring down the front of the rad as well. 08 pete 335 6.7 paccar

Thinking about moving to Texas from Canada. Wonder how the benefits and pay is at either company.

Any other recommendations for good employers with good benefits wages?

So im 20f, and am thinking of doing a HGV mechanic apprenticeship. I currently work on cars as a hobby, and am doing a light vehicle course at college, and want to be a mechanic. I've always been drawn to HGVs and want to get a cat C license and the money for HGV work would also be considerably better than for working on cars. My only worry is that I would physically struggle. I'm 5'6 and have a relatively skinny build, I am pretty comfortable working on cars strength-wise and can comfortably lift 35kg, and i think I would get considerably stronger once I actually start working in a garage. How much more difficult is diesel work? How much do you have to be able to lift on your own?

If your not going to put Timken cups in your hubs anymore, don't bother installing cups. What kinda crap is ZWZ?

Need some help here with this. Vehicle: 2013 Mercedes Benz ml350 bluetec diesel

The p0171 code is a MAF that’s the easy part

The P20E8 is for def system and I don’t have experience working with that

Is there anyway to diagnose or find out what’s wrong with the def system without plugging into computer at dealership?

If this post doesn’t belong here please remove.

Smokes real bad and feels like it’s running on 3 cylinders

Getting no 5 volt supply or signal power to or from the ECU. Throwing codes for apps, maf, barometric sensor low etc. Replaced all sensors related to these codes with no help. The overtemp short has caused this issue. I need suggestions please. Something simple I believe but I can't find it.

I've got a freshly rebuilt C7 in a 05 GMc8500. Getting code 70-5 intake heater open. Before tear down i notice a jumper on the intake heater solinoid from constant 12 solinoid supply to the activator side of the solinoid. If the jumper is removed, I get a check engine light with the code and no grid heater function. If the jumper is installed, grid heater stays on constantly with key on but check engine lights are off until it gets warmed up and codes for intake air temp high and low appear. The jumper is gone from here on. I've noticed no "grid heater light" on the dash at all. key on engine off, active fault for intake heater, but in cat et special functions intake heater test, once test running the active fault goes away. Coolant temp seems to be working and so does the IAT. Solinoid disconnected shows ground at both activator terminals. Anyone know if that dash light is a pass through to active the solinoid or any other cab controllers?

Is anyone able to get me the chassis wiring diagram for a Freightliner cascadia? Last six KB1031. I need to run an overlay for the WSS and need to pin out the bulkhead on the firewall.

Average in frame price on isx 15?

I have no stop lights on my trailer,but every other light works.. I also cannot find a fuse associated with the trailer stop light in the fuse box. Dealership already replaced pigtail and I'm still having this issue.

I'm going back to college in just over a month to enroll in their diesel tech program, and I am expected to have a laptop that can run software that is used by diesel technicians.

I've already checked with the school, and the laptops they recommend are primarily basic budget laptops intended for the classroom. I'm thinking I need something more powerful than that, and probably more durable as well. Please let me know about the typical laptops that are used in this field.

I have seen some shop guys recommend Panasonic Toughbooks, Lenovo ThinkPads, and Dell Latitudes. Which one out of these three would you recommend?

Rpm/load related vibration. Slow at idle and turns buzzy but goes above 3200rpm. Happens in neutral, clutch depressed or not. All 3 new mounts.

At its worst in 4th gear around 3k rpm but can be felt at all rpm from 3rd to 5th but goes away above 3200rpm

Have been told its a sticky injector leading to cylinder imbalance.

Have serviced the car and manually cleaned the entire intake stream and MAF.

Will do an injector leak off test.

Will run direct diesel purge.

Is an injector most likely or can there be another cause?

I need some diag help. When we pull the spike down air leaks from the abs modulator valve attached to the tractor protection valve. Brand new modulator and tractor protection valve.

When you pull the spike it leaks for a second then stops.

Thanks