This past summer I had to replace my blower motor as the electrical connection shorted out. Cool, not a problem, I put in the new blower motor and properly rewired and it worked amazingly. However, now it is not working again. All connections are fine, I’ve checked all fuses, tried another new blower motor, replaced the resistor, I’m just not sure what my next step should be. It creates heat as well as cold from the A/C, but there’s zero air flow with any speed setting. I can hear the internal exchange when I change from feet to defrost, etc. I’ve pressure tested my A/C system to make sure there’s no leak. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, unless you suggest rolling it off of a cliff because I can’t afford a new truck right now. Haha.

Thanks!

I very rarely wear disposable gloves, or anyone else in my shop. I'm willing to give then a chance, but looking for an eco friendly way of disposing of them.

I operated a construction company for several years, and have been to the landfill many times. Because of that my perspective on throwing things away has changed drastically.

We won't even do oil changes for people who bring in their own oil anymore. I buy everything in bulk and try my best to lessen my carbon footprint. 100s of gloves a month is enough for me to ask for a solution.

Also looking for suggestions on the best XXL gloves in bulk.

Im aware of the general consensus that if youve got really old ATF and it wasnt flush on interval, a flush can cause harm and you should just drain and fill on interval instead.

Ive got an 06 v8 4runner i purchased recently (Toyota WS ATF, reccomended interval is 60kmi) sealed trans. I have no maint records until 100k when i suspect it may have been flushed, although im not sure. I have records of flushes at 150k and 190k, and its currently at 260k. So its been flushed at a dealer multiple times prior, however were just past the 60kmi mark and its getting old obviously. I would be performing the flush on my own, and not using a flush machine so it will be a more "gentle" flush and hopefully not knock a ton of deposits loose. do i flush or just drain and fill?

edit: ive also got a 08 rav4 v6 that i just inherited from a late family member, 150k miles. i have zero records at all, and i suspect its never been done. I think ill just drain and fill that one every 50k?

In December some of the kids in my neighborhood decided to throw some rocks at my SUV and ended up smashing my rear tailgate window. I didn't even hear it somehow but their dad came and told me what happened and replaced it with another whole tailgate from another Ford explorer. occasionally, I would get the "door ajar" warning but then A couple of months ago I started getting them every time I would hit a bump. Now I keep having my battery drained so I got a new battery and then we thought it was the alternator so we replaced that then the starter and then I had a locksmith friend try and reprogram the keys because that's the code we got. He couldn't do that because of a aftermarket anti theft that also apparently drains the battery which was probably triggered by the "door ajar" warning. I got a automotive electrical shop to remove the anti theft,they reprogrammed my keys and I drove it out of there. Now it's the next day and it tried a little bit to turn over but then has no charge to the battery. AAA came out and tried to jump it after I tried my little ever start jumper and nothing worked, won't even try to turn over. Please help.

I drive a 2017 RAV 4. Was trying to take out my dash cam cable and this happened. How do you fix this ???

Hi all, I bought a 2013 plate bmw 116 over the weekend and the windows and mirrors are no longer working? can’t put the windows down and can’t move the mirrors into position, does anyone know what’s wrong or how to fix this? Thank you

Hey, Just after some advice. Had MOT today, failed on emissions. CO pass HC pass, Lambda failure on every test. Mechanic says catylitic converter problem however I had the catylitic converter changed in April of last year after MOT of last year showed emissions as advisory. Also engine light came on a month after and diagnostics showed converter. Car does appear to be using oil quicker than usual. Could this be an oil leak problem rather than converter problem. Car is a Peugeot 208, MOT garage said its a common fault with after market converters in Peugeot not being good enough. Took back Car to where converter was placed as is still under warranty and they said after running Car long enough is within range but still have to run the car longer than usual so still can't guarantee it's not the converter. Does this sound like a converter problem or something else?

Got a routine maintenance done on my 2018 Honda accord. They checked my brake and they advised I get my rear brakes replaced (rotors and pads were at 3mm). They said my front pads were fine at 8mm.

Should I just replace both my front and rear brakes? Not sure if the most efficient if my front pads have double the life of my rear pads

Lately my car has been dieing and overheating. Are those two problems connected. What’s causing the issue? The alternator is good. Could I have a blown gasket? I checked the oil and the oil is clean. I need help.

Key works just need to jiggle it right to start 1999 Chevy cavalier and was wondering if it I need a new key or if it could be a problem with the ignition starter

I drive a 2012 VW Tiguan 2.0L and ummm… yeah. In all seriousness is it that bad? Do I just have to clean it or just totally replace it?

honda civic 2014 1.8l

context for my main question. i have a car that is 10 years old but only has ~52360 miles.

i’m having major problems with my fuel economy & as im going through the list most things say to replace certain parts at 100k or miles (spark plugs specifically among many other things)

however most cars have 100k miles by the time its 10 years old so should i go by age or miles?

next if anyone could help me solve this problem- when i fill up with 2.5 gal of gas i get ~90 miles. when i fill up my whole tank (10gal even though google say 13) i only get 220 miles.

so mile fuel economy is BETTER when i fill up little portions at a time vs a full tank which is the opposite of what anyone has ever told me.

i don’t have leaks & nothing really needs repaired. i’ve noticed my exhaust ticking when idling recently but that started after a delayed oil change 🥴 (i changed it at 8k miles instead of 5k)

In my 2015 Nissan Micra I have noticed sludge on my oil cap, pressure with removing it after running and sludge on the dipstick(the oil looks normal and the sludge just sits above the oil and gets over the dipstick on pullout). The pcv valve when removed was bad so I cleaned it, during this I noticed the top end where the cams are has milky oil all in there. I was wondering if this is likely a problem that will resolve with warmer weather and a good pcv valve?

Possibly relevant

The area on the engine around the spark plug spot has oil around it on 3rd piston only

2014 Chevy Volt

Hit a pothole and car began making grinding sound on rear back tire. (There were no noises before hitting the pothole.) Dealer states we need to replace rear brake pads, rotors, calipers, and do a brake flush. Dealer stated the pothole did no visible damage, our rotors are rusted, pads are metal to metal, and caliper is seized. Vehicle is a Chevy Volt

Cost breakdown

$171 - Diagnostic (due to check engine - unrelated matter, DTC P1FFF. We are not going to address this at this time but there's still the diagnostic fee.

$45 - General diagnosis fee for the brakes

$369.95 - Brake Job - Rear (Replace Pads and Rotors): Necessary to replace rear pads and rotors, may also need calipers if the pistons are seized.

$949.41 - Brake Caliper Replacement - Rear: Replace rear calipers IF NEEDED and bleed/flush brake fluid. Dealer said just plan on needing this done.

$189.95 - Brake Flush

Any advice is appreciated, this year has been unlucky for us with our Impreza being totaled and a $1100 window replacement in my Outback.

Can't get rid of code 0068 tps. It comes up twice on my scanner. I just replaced it. Now code p0297 is coming up, I just replaced both 02 sensors. It runs like crap, no power. I really don't want to bring it to the garage. Any advice would be great. Ty

Hi, i have a diesel car and one injector stopped working completely, it's dead so it's not injecting diesel in the cylinder. So now the car is running on 3 cylinders. Can i drive it like that 2km to the service that will replace my injector? What could possibly happen to the engine?

Whats the best flywheel upgrade for a 1987 ford f150 xlt lariat with the ford 300 inline 6 and a 4speed manual with 4th overdrive?