Could we assume this has something to do with a leak in the exhaust which is producing regularly large puddles when parked (not using the AC at all)

I have a 2003 ford expedition xIt RWD. I need to change the differential gasket but the subframe is in the way. I've scoured all of YouTube and google only seeing diff changes with the entire diff out. I don't need all that work. I know there's a way to do it without disassembling the entire back end of the SUV. Does anyone know any tips or tricks?

My wife had new brake pads and rotors installed a couple of days ago. She said it’s been riding a little “uneven” but nothing too alarming until this evening. It started making a lot of noise and was difficult to get going. She said it sounded like something was dragging under her car. The braking seems really touchy. When she applies the brake it seems the caliper or rotor is making contact with the rim and scraping metal shavings off. What could cause this?

Hey guys. I have a 2015 Kia K5/Optima and I've noticed this for the last 4/5 refuels.

My car is a push start type and it wouldn't start immediately right after refueling. But will start normally on the 2nd or 3rd try.

It starts just fine in any other times.

I’ve recently gotten some work done on my car they changed the timer belt the rear break pads as well as the rotor and break fluid. the engine bay smells like it’s burning, it doesn’t overheat but they told me I had a oil leak but I also read online that it could be a loose timer belt which they did just replace. Appreciate any help. Sucks anytime I fix something it feels like something else breaks.

2009 Mini Clubman (Non-Turbo)

Engine light is on(forgot code) and says misfire on cylinder 2 and cylinder 4, and random misfire. I replaced ALL plugs and coils, but I’m still having this issue. (The 4th coil wasn’t really seating all the way in the video, so I replaced it, too.)

The car vibrates rough at idle and is weak to accelerate below 3k rpm. I did feel it kinda bog on the highway twice. Additionally, the car is burning oil and the plugs were either black or very wet with oil when I pulled them out.

Would greatly appreciate any help you may be able to offer.

Thank you!

Hi, i have a challenger 2023 rt, it has 4k miles on it, recently when i drive, sometime i started to hear a a bit of noise from passenger side, first i thought its coming from the windows but when i sit on passenger seat while my friend was driving, the sound is hard to track, sometime its seems like its coming from passager side dashboard and sometime its coming from globe compartment or inside of it and sometimes like corner of a door on foot side. Im not crazy because other people heard that sound too, its not continuous sound, its comes and goes but its annoying.. its not too loud sometime i feel like maybe something is loose perhaps,.. guy at a dealership told just keep driving which can't help since they cant track it either, have to drive 3 to.10 miles so they said just drive and when its get loud we will see. Wonder if anyone has this issue and can help me understand. I hate when this happens to new car. Thank you

My 1965 Buick Lesabre (310 Wildcat V8) idles fine, and stays running in drive, but when I take my foot off the brake it stalls out unless I give it a lot of gas. Distributor cap is dry and I'm in the process of replacing the fuel Accelerator pump, any other possible causes?

I have a problem with my Fiat Punto. When I slow down, for example, when stopping at a red light, the automatic transmission shifts into “N” by itself. When this happens, I have to turn the car off briefly and restart it. Does anyone have a solution for this issue? I would really appreciate any help or advice!

As title says, the gasket maker is part number 00295-00103 toyota oem. The FSM for the altima 3.5 2006 vq35de states to add rtv to the front corners of the mating surface of the cylinder head housing. I have some fipg left over from a valve cover gasket job on a 01 tacoma v6. If i cant use this fipg then can anyone recommend a good aftermarket one to get like at autozone if not I'll just get the genuine nissan one. Thanks and God Bless.

My obd2 is saying my o2s11 and 12 voltages are 9v and 120v, that seems crazy high. Has anyone seen this? I’m thinking about replacing one of the o2 sensors but would like some feedback before doing that work unnecessarily

Has anyone had any of these issues? I love my civic but this is sad. It seems like issue after issue with #1 being the newest of the bunch. Idk what to do anymore. It seems like the 2 Honda dealers I’ve gone to don’t want to try and find the issue to avoid warranty work. TIA

#1: when push starting, the car cranks hard, dies, cranks hard again and then engine runs. Shakes the entire car. Like a bad sputter when starting. #2: when accelerating there is a pinging noise, and when blipping throttle it’s super bad. Almost sounds like a shopping cart wheel. #3: when on highway maintaining a steady speed…the RPMs start to go up and down about 500 give or take.

Couldn't decide between r/AITA and r/MechanicAdvice.

So I recently got some work done on my moped and was driving it off the lot onto a busy road. I then found out that I had no rear brake (Courtesy of them not retensioning the brake via a hand tightened nut)

I got them to sort it and said it was alg at the time. Thinking about it I think it was not ok and gave a one star review detailing the problem.

I know we are all human, but is it unreasonable for me to think it is innesquesable? They had the key. Shouldn't they have test drove it?

Any advice to find a good Mechanic?

AITA?

Hi all,

I'm at a bit of a loss here. I've recently started to notice shuddering from the steering wheel (and potentially chassis, it's hard to tell as the shuddering is aggressive) when I'm at full lock, either reversing or in drive. You can feel it winding up the further the wheel is turned, and when at full lock - like when doing a u-turn or reversing into our out of a park, it's at it's worst. This issue has been getting worse, and I've noticed over the last couple of days that the automatic seems to stop working when at full lock in reverse, and the car won't roll back on it's own - needs a quick touch of the accelerator to actually roll backwards at full lock.

In addition to this, I've also noticed a sort of "rotating whine" from under the hood when in park occasionally. This goes away after the car is placed into gear, and can happen when the car is hot or cold.

Taking advice from another thread from outside Reddit, I've just ascertained that the shuddering doesn't happen when the car is stationary and at full lock. The thread suggested that this means it isn't a transmission issue, but more likely that it's the power steering drive belt slipping - granted, the OP in this thread didn't have the issue I'm having with the whining sound in park.

Has anybody else had a similar issue or any insights? Could it be as simple as attempting to tighten the power steering drive belt? I'm not particularly mechanically inclined (or flush with cash to see a mechanic right now) but I can get the car to my old man for him to help as he's fairly handy. I've just noticed I need to post the 8th digit of my VIN to be able to post in the subreddit - it's an S.

Any advice or solutions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

I have a 2006 Honda Accord that needs a transmission rebuilt. How many hours will it take a mechanic to complete the job, and what is the hourly labor rate? Seattle for reference.

Coolant everywhere and I found that this return hose was split. Sits on top of motor. Any ideas why it would be sheared off? Such a unique design to have this in the middle of the hose. 2012 Chevy impala.

Just looking for any help in this regard. As the title says my camaro LT 2017 6v manual car is having the low oil pressure warning pop up on the dash. Notably there is no OBS light, just an message that pops up on the dash. Aprx 55,000 miles.

Issue started 1.5 months ago. Oil change 2.5 months ago via Firestone. Full synthetic, however I doubt they used the right one.

Does not always happen though. When the car is on a flat road oil pressure is 33-45 depending on if moving or not. I can trigger the message if I park my car in a sharp decline.

Brought it back to Firestone and they said everything looks good.

I am curious if it is the oil pump, the wrong oil type, or even potentially the battery (which is needing to be replaced). Battery is barely strong enough to start car.

Thank you in advance!

changed alternator and the battery shows 12.7 volts but car wont crank all interior lights come on it just wont turn on any idea of what i could check ?