So the last few times I went to start my car, it took quite a bit of jiggling to get the key to turn in the ignition, but I went to start my car just now and the key will not turn. It looks like it’s a little bent in one spot too from trying to move it around in there too much. What do I do? It’s stuck in a parking garage right now and I need to work in the morning!

My 2018 Mazda CX-9 AWD has been having coolant overheating issues - I've had the coolant lines repressurized multiple times which makes the issue go away for about 200 miles and then it starts acting up again - I also had the temp gauge replaced to no effect either - was wondering if anyone know what could be causing this overheating issue. I had forgotten to refill my coolant before a long trip and my car overheated near the end because the coolant ran out causing the issue (I know I'm dumb)

https://preview.redd.it/x5fg3d3or54e1.jpg?width=756&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5dee5d9a1eb8d9593fa9537bcea3c72676a5e8c7

https://preview.redd.it/mksap3vqr54e1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ecdef3bd13eedc00b8d67ab95ef4fe4d94eb5d75

What is this? I do not notice anything has changed and my mechanic has no idea....is this mine or alien tech?

Hello all,

I recently took my 2004 VW Passat 2.8L V6 in for a coolant leak, which ended up costing me $700 in parts and labor. My car has always had fairly mild heat, and typically requires a coolant flush every 6 months or so due to cracked heater core pipes (replacement costs about three-quarters of the car's value).

I've had the car back from the mechanic for about three weeks now, and with the temperature dropping, I decided to give it another flush. After the flush, I encountered an issue where the heat would only kick on in the cabin after revving the engine. I suspected air in the lines, so I tried bleeding the system.

I started by using the VW self-bleed hose and tipped the reservoir upwards until the coolant had a steady stream through the little hole. Everything went smoothly. Then, I placed a funnel in the top of the coolant reservoir and attempted to "burp" the system, just to ensure there was no remaining air. However, as soon as I applied light pressure to the radiator hose, I heard coolant leaking from the bottom of the car. I gave the hose a couple more squeezes, and the leaking increased.

Looking under the car, I found a large puddle of coolant near the front/middle of the car. Did I do something extremely wrong, or is this an improper fix?

Note: While squeezing the radiator hoses, I didn’t notice any coolant coming from the heater core pipes, so I don’t think that’s the issue.

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

As the title says, I just noticed today as the window rarely gets used. It's below freezing for the past day or so but I've lived in cold weather for a few years now so I'm not sure if it's that. There's no funny motor sounds or anything when I try it, it just makes the rolling sound for a second then gets stuck and makes kind of a squeak sound like when it closes fully.

Passenger heat is not working, I tried to replace the actuator behind the glove box but it is still clicking and blowing cold air

Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on what could be causing this. Had an oil change and it showed up immediately after. No issues starting, no smell of oil or smoke, no odd sounds, driving normally. Auto zones paper says it could be as easy as reconnecting or re torqueing the intercooler hose.

It’s an Audi q5, 2022 with 100k miles. Automatic. 2.0 liter 4 cylinder.

Thank you.

Hello, so I'm looking to put together a sort of study guide, a way that I can make myself more useful throughout my first year.

I'm 30 years old and just getting into the trade, I have a general knowledge of tools, but only know minimal amount of the trade. I'm about a month in to my new job and it's fairly clear to me that the journeymen in the shop are not great to learn off of. Our shop foreman is 70 years old and is a well of knowledge, however he's fairly busy running around for parts and running the operation .

I work in a company shop for a company with a lot of gravel trucks, tractors, and heavy equipment trailers.

Right now I'm mainly doing full services and have the down alright, but I'm looking for a way to contribute beyond that while I'm between services. I can always ask the foreman for something to do, however that usually leads to meaningless labour tasks that he's only assigned me for the sole purpose of being busy. He would much prefer I find things to do on my own, however I'm not quite confident enough to just go and start fixing something on my own.

What are some things I can do to increase my knowledge and make myself more valuable, and useful as a first year?

What are some things I should be focusing on learning in the beginning to excel in the position?

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated!!!

Recently bought a second hand Corolla Verso 2.2 D-CAT with 108k kms ( 2007 ) from a dealer with a year warranty covering 100% of labour and 40% of parts. Last week I noticed the coolant level was low so I topped it up until F. Today I decided to check the coolant level and saw to my surprise it was at the low end. Since my purchase last month, I started hearing these gushing or water slushing sounds any time I fired up the engine (don't know if it has to do with the coolant).

I bought the vehicle in Germany.

I am reading and hearing a lot that these engines have head gasket issues etc. I already spent 6500€ buying the car. Is it worth keeping it or should I give it back/have it checked or repaired?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Hi kind and hot mechanics of reddit, does my serpentine belt needs replacement?

https://imgur.com/gallery/EgEReAz

Hello,

First time posting here. I have a 2008 Toyota Corolla that has about 320k plus miles. Runs great and i still keep it as it holds sentimental value to it but it’s non of our main vehicle.

Long story short, I got a smog check today and they said the back catalytic converter doesn’t match what a 2008 Toyota Corolla should have. It should be 55700 but what was installed was two front catalytic converter for the back as well.

I went to the Mechanic that installed it and they pushed back saying no they only installed the front but never touched the back. Although the SMOG check person both were aftermarket and no OEM’s.

Their manager isn’t on duty but will be back Tuesday.

My question is: is the mechanic shop obligated to correct their wrong?

Can I got to a different Smog checker?

Thanks in Advance!

Kawasaki Fr691v Engine, won't start at all but I can hear a faint sizzling/frying noise near the starter as I try to crank it. Should I just try replacing the starter or is there something else I should look for first?

I have a 2016 Mazda3. When I first bought it at 120,000 miles, I performed an automatic transmission fluid and filter change.

After about 2 months/1000 miles of driving, I decided to check the ATF fluid level after I remembered that I hadn’t done the check and refill procedure correctly. Sure enough, the ATF was below the minimum mark on the dipstick.

I topped it off immediately. Took about 2/3 quart to bring it to the correct level. Everything shifts smoothly except for a slightly rough 1st-2nd gear change after a cold start (which I’m hoping is normal).

What should I do? Bite the bullet and pay $200+ to get the transmission evaluated? Drop the pan myself to check for metal debris? Or did I catch it in time?

Hello, I have an 08 Toyota bB (Japanese car) with the k3-ve 4-cylinder vvt-i engine. I had a locksmith come by to program a key and ever since the car hasn’t started but it was starting fine and even driving before he arrived that same day. I am getting crank but no start and no spark at all to any of the plugs. Changed crank and cam sensors, spark plugs and coils but still same issue. I also had another locksmith and two mechanics look at it but they couldn’t find the issue. I changed the ecu today and still no changes. I did look at the board for the old ecu and it had a damaged/cracked/burnt transistor. Tomorrow I intend to try putting the same transistor from the old ecu in and hope it works. If anyone has any other suggestions in all ears.. Thank you.

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a 2000 Mitsubishi Lancer CE, and recently the radiator fan has been running continuously. It doesn’t turn off, even when the engine is off. I’ve tried unplugging and re-plugging the fan, but it starts running again immediately after I reconnect it.

Does anyone know what could be causing this issue? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Feel free to adjust it to match your tone or add any other details you think might be helpful!