I’m currently trying to replace the left split bar on my motorcycle but I couldn’t get this screw out it’s SO tight! And I ended up stripping it. I have no idea how to get it out, I tried the superglue trick, the rubber band and I’m a bit lost, I know you can drill into it but I’m scared I’ll ruin something. I need advice 🥲

I own a 2010 Chevy Camaro and recently the engine gave out. Luckily my dad used to buy cars and sell the engines from junkyards so he’s no stranger to replacing an engine. I bought a brand new (rebuilt) engine online and the install went smoothly however, piston 5 keeps misfiring over and over. We have brand new spark plugs, brand new coil packs, brand new crankshaft sensor and even replaced the fuel injector on piston 5. We even went as far as testing the spark plug and coil pack out of the engine and there is spark, the fuel injector does work (we tested with a clear tube of liquid on one end and with jumper cables and the liquid came out) and we’re both at a loss. If anyone knows what else could possibly be wrong it would be a huge help. Thank you.

I took off my steering wheel to sew on a steering wheel cover and in the process my spiral cable/clock spring came apart. I put it back together but now I have a steering angle sensor code c1a47. my dash says check PCS and blind spot monitor. two questions.

1. is it safe to drive?
2. will relaxing the clock spring fix it?

it's 2013 Toyota Avalon

Hi, p0303 came on yesterday. Check engine flashed, rough idle, misfires, slow acceleration, hesitation. Changed out the ignition coil for cylinder 3 and code didn’t come back.

Drove to work and back today and car was fine. Was heading out to go somewhere today and car started acting same as yesterday, flashing cel, misfiring etc. This time code p0302 came on.

I’ve changed spark plugs within the last year.

Car is around 140k miles, got it around 40k and don’t know if last owner changed coils. I’ve never changed them so I saw online they last around 80k-100k. So I’m sure it’s time to change them all anyways.

You think all the misfiring should stop once the coils are replaced? The one coil I changed was $70 but now that I’m going to buy 3 more is it okay to buy one that’s $50 and have 3 coils one brand and 1 coil a different brand?

I drive a 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL with the 3100 V6, and a 1999 Ford F250 Fleet Edition with the Triton 4.6L V8, I do all of my own repairs and haven't had any issues, but I just want to learn more about cars as a whole, and what all of the parts of the engine do, without dumping a bunch of money into classes, or risking damage to either of my vehicles.

Do axle seals tighten up against the race eventually?

I replaced the axle seals on my Ridgeline with the new axles, and the drivers side did not seat into the transmission like the passenger side. It had a bit of play to it.

Should I pull it apart again and get a better fitting seal? Or will it eventually just seat itself?

Good evening everyone!

This wingnut bolt is near the alternator where the belts are located. The wingnut bolt is tightened to make one of the belts tight and have less play. I'm not mechanically inclined, or no much about the consequences of a loose belt than recommended, but my question is. Why is it that after I tighten the wingnut bolt, the belt stops squealing as much, and yet eventually it the wingnut bolt loosens up on its own. I would have to hand tighten it once a week almost. This time, the wingnut bolt will only keep spinning right and it doesn't feel like it gets tight to wear you can't use your hand anymore.

Can anyone help me find the wingnut bolt part number or have an idea of what I should do to fix this? How much time does the car have before a worst case scenario?

Thank you.

Hey guys, yesterday i swapped the fuel injectors in my car trying to fix an ongoing issue I've been having, but for some reason after I was done and tried to drive my car, it was barely accelerating. I hit the gas and was all the way at 4000 rpm and my car was loud as ever, but it was barely going 20mph, felt like I was hitting the gas in neutral. I figured the new injectors might have been faulty so I put the old ones back in, and it helped a little, but it's still struggling to accelerate. Any ideas on how I F'd this up?

RAV4 2023, 1yo, 5000km in ODO. Was changing to winter wheels and spotted that rust. Is it expected?

1999 Chevy K2500 5.7 Vortec

Test setup scenario: All fuses and relays pulled out from both cab and engine bay. Battery ground connected to chassis and engine block, battery positive completely disconnected from all power cables, alternator completely disconnected from power wire and single wire terminal so it is only connected by ground from installation. Ammeter connected between battery positive and positive lug on alternator. Ammeter reads a current draw of .140.

Now this completely stumps me as theoretically as I understand it there should be absolutely 0 current draw being pulled by the alternator unless there is an internal short from something like a burnt diode causing that power from the battery to go to ground inside the alternator. Ok, suspected bad alternator so a new one was purchased but setting that new one on top of the existing one to ground it the same measurement was taken with the same result of a .140 current draw. I'm stumped why I'm getting current draw from the alternator.

Trying to switch the battery I accidentally ripped this cable. Any advice?

I turned on my 2013 Corolla and I heard an unusual whining noise and then I realized the dashboard battery light came on. I was going to check the battery and alternator but the whining stopped and the light turned off right away. What could the issue be? What should I look into first? Please and thank you.

Hey all!

I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer ES with around 175,000 km on it. Recently, my AC stopped blowing cool air, although the blower was working fine. I went for a regas, and now it's blowing cool air as expected.

However, I’ve noticed something odd. When I turn on the AC, the temperature gauge starts climbing within 1-2 minutes and settles just below the halfway mark. It drops a bit when I hit highway speeds (around 100 km/h). With the AC off, the temperature reading on the gauge behaves as usual, staying around 1/4 of the way up.

For context:

• Before the regas, with the AC on, the temp gauge would also stay around 1/4, but the air wasn’t cool.
• The car has two fans, and both are working.
• Coolant levels are normal.

My mechanic says it’s nothing to worry about, but I wanted to get some second opinions from you all. Is this normal, or should I be concerned about it?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

I was changing my John Deere tractor battery and didn't wear gloves, and I briefly touched the terminals while tightening/loosening the bolts. Is this a risk of lead poisoning?

Hi, I need to get all 4 tyres changed and saw some Michelins available in 185 65 15.

My mazda 2 2010 tyres are currently 185 55 15 so apart from the changes to the speedo, are there any other impacts that I need to consider?

It's a 6% increase in diameter but my wheel arch has enough clearance to fit them.

Ultimately, am I okay to go for the larger size?

I remember being able to buy a ton of the really large shop rags and I’d use them for everything from laying on fenders of cars or wrapping parts for transport. I can’t seem to find them anywhere now. I bought a bulk of them a while ago and just went out looking for more and can’t find any.

It’s a question for fellow mechanics, but not for a vehicle specific car, so I hope that’s okay.

I’ve been working on my 18 crv and it has the p0441 code. I’ve done numerous things to fix it but still keep getting the code after resetting. When I read the freeze frame with my scanner it shows the command evap purge at 60%. I’ve reset the code probably 10 times and every time jt comes back the freeze frame reads 60% command purge. Could this be any correlation to why the code keeps coming back? my fuel trim is very rich in idle when the valve opens. When it closes it drops down to normal numbers.

So far I have replaced battery, replaced purge valve, installed new subcord to floor harness, cleaned out canister.

Hello so ive got a convoluted issue. The background is I started my car Thursday the 7th of November at about 9am and I heard dripping. I initially thought nothing of it but when I backed out there was a huge puddle. It was green coolant so I looked and the car was not overheating, that is until about 30 min later it started rising, and boiling coolant was dripping onto the ground. Long story short I took it to a highly rated shop in the area was told it was the intercooler hose, and was quoted 460$. The kicker is they did the work before getting Authorization from me, so I ended up refusing to pay and they lowered it to 170$. I picked up the car and let it run 15 min, and it does not overheat. I drove it down the road then stoped and checked same thing right in the middle. So I attempted to go to a further destination about 4 miles, and stoped paying attention to the temp gauge. When I looked back at it it's right below the top bar so I shut the car off then pulled over. It cooled back down rather quick but I towed it anyway to be sure back to the shop I originally brought it to, I told them it was still overheating. Mind you they claimed they tested it pressure tested and verified the head gasket was good when I first brought it to them. So upon bringing it back they just say they "think" it's the thermostat with basically no testing, and quote me about 500$ to replace it with 300$ish from the part? I've never seen a thermostat cost that much, I feel they were trying to get over on me since I did not pay them the initial amount the first time I went. Tldr I picked up the car rejected the work and drove it home did not overheat. So I drove it a bit more then it did start to creep up. I discovered that the heat works off and on, basically if I rev the car above 4k RPM the temps drop. If I keep the car at low revs no heat and it overheats. But if I rev the car than it will produce heat and not overheat. I dont have to rev it constantly but regularly I'll put it in manual, and drop a couple gears to get the temp back down once it starts to creep. Anyway that's very over explained but if anyone has thoughts please shoot them my way. I think I included everything but if I did not just ask for missing details. I am no mechanic but I do dabble I'm DIY and if the thermostat is the issue and easily accessible, I would like to try at it myself. I could only find guides for the G35 but they have the same engine so I'm not sure. Also there is NO history of overheating with this vechicle at all. This all just started. I also did see there was a recall for the cooling fans perhaps there faulty? My friend suggested that since when I rev it it cools down,  perhaps It's related to the water pump since it's belt driven? Fast engine=pump work? Not sure, maybe clogged heater core? Or they didint bleed the system of air correctly? They did replace the radiator cap without me asking, perhaps that introduced air into the system? Anyway I'm done guessing I can't afford to pay someone just yet to look at it, but while I wait/before I do I wanted others opinions, thanks. Some other useful stuff: 175k miles clean title no accidents 2 owner vechicle. Dealer maintained by first owner. Was not beaten as far as I'm aware. Also it seems unrelated to the speed I'm at reving it while parked works as well as reving it while moving. And the fans sound like there running have not tested further. Also the overflow tank is full of coolant.

Today I completely filled up 2011 Santa Fe, went to work and forgot to turn off headlights. Got in car after work - didn’t need jump - to find my fuel gauge on near empty.

By the time I finished 30 minute commute (mainly interstate miles) fuel gauge had slowly crept up to 3/4 of a tank… only other variable I can think of is dashboard clock won’t keep time.

Should I be worried? About to redo all brakes but I can’t do electrical work on my own 😓 Thanks in advance for any sage advice!

I have the below two error / issue repair codes coming up on the Audi Q2 2018. Its only done around 80,000km & having issues. When driving, a message reading "Gearbox malfunction: you can continue driving. See owners Manual" pops up.  Its an automatic transmission car & when that malfunction message pops up up near odometer, the car won't auto change into certain gears. It also heavily jolts and can't really be driven when it pops up.

Located in Australia, what sort of cost can I expect to replacement the following two parts?

- Megatronics Replacement
- Auxillary Transmission Fluid Pump Replacement

CAR: Audi Q2 2018

Pretty much the title. I leave my car parked during work, and the last 2 nights or so, rear windshield is fogged up from inside. I had this happen with my old Volvo, but I had water leaking everywhere. This time it seems dry.

Any ideas? I'm not a car guy and hoping my shits not ruined....