I've put down a deposit on this 07 trailblazer LT but wanted some insight from folks who know the brand. This car has had 1 owner, the interior and exterior are near immaculate, and has 135k miles. Is this a fair price (current price negotion only took it down to 6,688)? Has anyone had negative experiences with this model that should sway me away from it? I've done tons of research but it's not the same as getting feedback from real people.

I dented my car pretty bad back in 2023 after trying to squeeze past a car that was in the middle of a one way residential street with its hazards on and no driver. Left my info on the car windshield and they never reached out (I took most of the damage so maybe thats why). This is a 2018 Chevy Sonic LT. What is my cheapest option for fixing this damage? The paint isn’t that bad, the sealing of the door and dent is the issue. My insurance covers damage if I pay $1k, but I am not even sure if this is the best option since I am at fault and the other party never reached out. How much would it cost to go to through third party? Or what’s the cheapest section of the damage that I can get fix to make it look a tad better?

I have GMS discount and was looking at getting a new car, and was wondering, does the discount apply to Demos/Courtesy Vehicles that have been marked down. As far as I know GMS doesn’t stack on top of any dealer discounts, but wasn’t sure if it was different for Demos.

Anyone that understands cams can give me some insight Looking at going a different cam and debating between a stage 4 btr cam or a Eglin E-1840-p sloppy mechanic stage 2 cam

Sloppy 2– 228/230 duration @ .050” with .585”/.585” valve lift and 112 degree lobe separation angle Btr stage 4 — 224/230 .553/.553 109+0

What’s the difference and what one could I get the most out of

Well, the title says it all. A couple days ago I realised that my car was unlocked and I found it odd, once I remember to lock it. Then I locked it again with the FOB and it locked, but unlocked again like a loop. I checked if there was an open door, but all doors were properly closed.

I didn't find any related issue on the Internet (found many problems with central locking but none of them were the exactly the same or with the same cause, I think).

Symptoms:

• Door locks and unlocks if I press the FOB lock BUTTON

• Does the same if I use the key manually (both keys)

• It locks without problem if I unplug the central locking fuse

• I can't press the door lock down if the door is open (I am not sure if it is supposed, to be honest. But I can do it on the other doors)

• I can press the door lock down with the door locked. However all the doors lock (ok) and unlock again.

I already did:

• Disconnected the battery for 30min

• Check the fuses (they're ok)

• Disconnected the door lock actuator and cleaned the connection with contact spray

• WD-40 (Because... Why not?)

(This is the front left door/driver's door)

I saw another post with maybe a similar issue but not really the same. The sound quality itself isn’t the best but this has to do with the volume. When I first got the car it was fine for a couple days, then the volume became low. As in the highest it goes is acceptable but the lowest I would want it. Literally turned up all the way. After about a month, it fixed itself (I don’t think I did anything to fix it but I may just not remember) and was working fine like a normal car where if I tuned it up all the way it would be ridiculously loud. Now yesterday it went back to being soft. I know I accidentally grazed my finger on the screen but I don’t know if I hit a setting or something. I can’t find anything and it is driving me crazy. Any ideas?

Thanks for supporting me on my post, appreciate it!

Thanks for supporting me on my post appreciate it!

it only does this sometimes, i just wanted to see if anyone else has had this issue before. it'll happen when i use carplay connected to my phone like 5% of the time? otherwise it's fine. when this happens my whole display glitches out, the screen is slow to respond to touch, and if any sound plays it comes out as staticy and also glitched out.

Trying to get my car inspected already but the metal pin that holds the bulb in the license plate light is rusted and simply doesnt hold the bulb. Wiring is fine and bought a new bulb. talked to an auto part place and a chevy dealer who suggested I go shopping online for the piece since replacing the whole wire is unnecessary and requires unhooking things. I see a bunch of options online that have the whole wire and everything but I just need the black piece with the pins in it essentially. Anyone been lucky enough to have dealt with a situation like this with an older model?

Chevy cruze 2015. 53 000 km and new battery. Reliable? Is it good for a first car?

Let’s all get together and hunt tahoes, whoever gets the most photos of different tahoes wins

Has anyone had any success finding a decent aftermarket cargo cover?

I can’t justify purchasing essentially what looks like a bendy mesh windshield cover for over $150 from the dealership.

Thanks in advance

Just swapped upper and lower control arms, ball joints, etc. Rides amazing now. Also put in a leveling kit to get rid of some of that rake. Coming from a Jeep, I’m impressed by how it performs in the mud!

I have tentative deals for a Trax Activ (Yellow color) and a 2024 Trailblazer LT (blue color). I like both of them but confused which one to go with. If you ignore the price difference, which one would you recommend and why? I don't need a car for racing, going up and down the hills. I just need a daily drive car. Appreciate all responses

Just filling in for the other guy

(2018 Chevy Equinox) Recently, I have been getting a message on the info. screen when I accelerate out of a stop. Coming out of a red light, the screen will read "traction control on," then I'll click OK on the steering wheel which would bring me to the next message reading "Park brake released," to which I would click OK again before seeing the last message reading "Service park asst." This message only pops up in the mornings, but does not appear coming out of every stop, so it is inconsistent. I don't notice any sputtering or unusual sounds/feelings when I brake, although sometimes accelerating out of a stop causes the radio to go silent for a second (which is a secondary problem). I brought the car to my shop and was told it is a computer glitch, they reset it, but the message is popping up again. Has anyone experienced this or does anyone have any advice? Thank you in advance!

bummed we didn’t get a post… looking forward to this afternoon. I got $5 on an avalanche in there

My customers truck got hit into when someone ran the red light. 💥🚗 Drive safe out there!