I am looking at a 1996 Chevy S10. 4x4, 4 speed auto 4.3 motor. 186k miles frame looks clean and the body has some dents but I don’t see any rot in the pictures. Guy wants $3k. Seems like a good deal. I know those motors can be pretty damn reliable, my dad had a half ton with the same motor in it as a farm truck and it never let us down. So I guess my thoughts are what do you guys think? I’m a Chevy/GM fan more than any other brand so I know a little bit about these motors, transmissions and trucks, but still would like some input. Thanks 🙂

I was having issues with it idling when cold I replace iac and fixed the low idle issue but now I have a high idle and it feels like my throttle body wants to get stuck when I down shift it doesn’t want to idle down and want to push me through corners I’ve relearned the throttle like 3 times and fully cleaned the throttle body replaced the tps and made sure I have no vacuums leaks still having issues

It's not giving any codes or a check engine light, but when I start it in the morning, it either dies while I leave it to warm up after about 1-2 minutes (and dies again if I turn it back on), or if it doesn't die in the driveway, it's died at three or four red lights while idling in the past few months. This happens during the summer as well, so it's not just a drop in temperature (though it does get worse during winter).

Local Chevy dealer kept it for a week and couldn't find the cause of the problem, but found an old code for O2 sensors. I'm just trying to get a second opinion, because atm the car is at another shop who hasn't been able to replicate or diagnose the issue?

I think it has to do with the auto-stop feature

Hello all, i recently bought a 2019 Chevy Cruze LS and Is 5w-30 full synthetic dexos-1 or 0w-20 full synthetic dexos-1 the correct oil type?

2018 Colorado zr2 2.8 lwn. 250k km

I’m baffled by this issue. ANY suggestions would be appreciated.

Truck still has original front brake pads and they are 60%. Replaced rear 3x so far. Poor braking since day one.

Assumed bad master cylinder. Replaced it along with the booster (not a fun job). Bled the system, bled the ABS, then re-bled the system. Pedal is very firm when the vehicle is off (previously it would slowly sink to the floor). BUT… once the pickup is turned on, the pedal goes to the floor with virtually zero resistance and the brakes hardly apply enough to stop the vehicle. I checked all the brake lines, all the calipers, all the connections and see no sign of any leaks.

The new MC was properly bench bled. There are no lights or error messages on the dash.

I don’t know what else to try! Thoughts?

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My 17’ GMC sierra 5.3 calls for 75w-85 front & back differential oil. but i’ve seen other people recommend Valvoline SynPower Transmission & Differential Gear Oil 75W-90. Any other opinions?

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I have a Chevrolet Traverse LT 2010.

For a very long time I could not choose a new radio to replace the old radio. And finally I found the best option. This is a universal radio Eonon UA12S Plus-6G.

8 core Qualcomm Snapdragon 665. Ram - 6gb. Rom - 64 gb + SD card. Android 13!!!

Of course, this is all together with CarPlay & Android Auto. Large and bright display - QLED 10.1 inch that rotates in different directions and angles. Advanced equalizer settings really help to adjust the sound quality. The support service works well. There were some incomprehensible moments with the installation, but the support service helped me with this.

They also sent a rear view camera as a gift to the stereo system. I am very satisfied with the purchase. Now my Chevrolet Traverse LT 2010 looks updated and more modern.

They have stereo systems for almost all cars.

They also have various car accessories that are a good addition to your new stereo system.

I'll leave their link.

https://reddit.com/link/1h3gaus/video/3pfsygyrh24e1/player

https://www.eonon.com

Hi all, I have a 2018 Chevy Cruze. Today out of nowhere my car seemed to lose power when I hit 65mph. No check engine lights have came on. It seems to drive/shift perfectly fine under 55mph but once I go over that, the rpm struggles to go higher. If I set the cruise control on at 65mph, it seems to stay around 2500 rpms but would normally be at 2000. I can get past 70mph as well, it just seems like the RPMs cap out. Any idea how I could fix this? I'm hoping it isn't the transmission going out.

Hey yall I’m curious if anyone can point to some quality speakers I can acquire to replace on my 2007 Chevy trailblazer. Factory ones blew out and I’m trying to look for some that a decent sound quality.

Has anyone noticed how odd the Super Cruise map is? There are many non-interstate roads where only random portions are mapped. What's the point of this? Why would I want to engage Super Cruise for just five minutes or so of driving only to have it disengage shortly afterwards?

For example, search for Califon, NJ on the Super Cruise map: https://www.chevrolet.com/super-cruise. You'll see patchy availability around the city where the road is green for just a few miles. How is this useful?

Hey guys there is a dashboard light that I have never seen before I'm just trying to be aware of it just in case it ever come on. Can anyone help me identify what it is for future knowledge and diagnostics.

Thanks

Took my car to the mechanic recently in which he hopefully took care of the problem and cleared the cel light. What steps should I take before taking the test?

Like, this thing has a 13 gallon fuel tank and specs say it should be getting 27 mpg city and an approximate ly 500 mile fuel range. I just drove it straight from the dealer to the gas station, filled it up and went to the grocery store and home, driving for a total of around 6 miles. Gas needle was noticeably dipping.

Called the dealership and asked what’s up with this and a told ithe computer may just be off because the battery was cold and needed a jump at the lot. Said to drive it around for a while, get on the freeway, and see what it says and report back.

Decided I’d go back out to the car and do just that, but it’s bumper to bumper both ways on the freeway, so I stopped back at the gas station and topped it off to see how much gas was used in the now maybe 8-10 miles - the gas pump said 0.84 gallons.

I’m a very inexperienced car buyer and not particularly mechanically inclined, so what say y’all folks, does this sound right or do I need to schedule to have the car looked at by the dealer?

Edit:

Small additional question: When I start the car, it keeps saying it’s in some kind of demonstration mode, and to press the onstar button for more info. How do I disable this?

Hello everyone I am hoping to get some help with figuring out what’s wrong with my car. My AC buttons on my 2017 Chevy Malibu won’t work. I can only turn on my rear, AC, , and bottom vents. I cannot turn on my front vents. The button won’t even turn on. I didn’t spill anything btw. I just really want this fixed. Thanks again for your help.

Already called them and the current owner is sleeping so I’m just gonna ask this question here cause why not. Messaged this guy on fb marketplace about his beautiful corvette and have been pretty much locking down on the sale. However he’s still paying it off to GM financial. Could I just pay off the car and have the mail me the loan(with owners permission ofc) then go pick up the car or would they automatically send him the title and now he has a paid off car. Already called the company and they gave me no good info.

hello , i have a chevrolet cruze. a few days ago my car wouldnt start so i used a jumpstart battery. a few seconds after starting it up i heard a pop sound, accompanied with a short distruption to electrical current and continues working fine. ever since then, every time i start it up cold the same thing happens . id like to add also that statt up is just abit slower now any ideas ? thank you

the car is working fine and no electric issues ( just for a millisecond like discribed above)

My dad has a 2011 Chevy Silverado. I believe it is a mid trim model, but I’m not entirely sure. Recently, his CD drive stopped working so we are getting a new radio, but I noticed that they are all smaller so which one do I get that will fit and work with his truck?

I was driving on a curb while turning I accelerated and felt something was wrong in the car, i heared some noises coming from underneath the vehicle parked right away and the engine was off

Car wont start again, No crank sound when i tried to start it electronics are working, i had weird fuel smell in the past couple of days but couldn’t have it checked out

Gasoline smell still in the car while i was waiting for a tow truck

Just asking what that could be

92000 miles 2022 suburban rst

I just got this trailblazer a week ago and haven’t had any issues until recently. My driver side door does not have the window/doorlock control panel on it. So for the time being I have manually locked the driver side door and locked all other doors with the remote. I unlocked the driver side with the key and forgot to hit the unlock button on the remote for the other doors and tried to start the vehicle, when I did the alarm went off so I pressed the unlock button and stopped the alarm but was unable to start the car and had the security light flashing. I preformed the security reset and was able to get it back going. So I assumed I needed to make sure to use the remote to unlock it first before trying to start to prevent that problem but for the past 2 days I have had the vehicle unlocked and when I went to start up the same security lock out has happened to me. I’m still able to reset and get back on the road but I need help figuring out why this keeps happening and fix the issue completely. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! (Side note I have the control panel for door lock and windows now just haven’t had time to install)