Okay so I know this code means either bad cat converter or O2 sensors The other day I was driving probably 40 mph and it overheated and when I opened the hood I had coolant everywhere. I know I have a leak of some kind but don't know from where Is it worth it to have someone fix the turbo the cat and whatever else needs replaced or should I trade this baby in.

She's got 118000 miles on it bought it at 93000 and only had it since March I also am making payments still and owe about 10k on the car Please refrain from telling me what a crappy deal I got I was desperate

Ooooh boy! Been lurking this subreddit for a bit, and it finally happened. 2014 Cruze 1.4L w/ 38k miles was jittering and shuddering on the drive from California and back. MIL would flash then go away, but no codes each time. Got it looked at by a mechanic, did a snake oil cleaner to clear the carbon said it's fine. Made it back north just fine only a shudder here or there for a second.

Today, it was barely making it out of idle it was shaking and jerking so bad. StabiliTrak warning, traction control warning, flashing MIL, at idle it felt like it was gonna stall, and the headlights dim with each shudder. New battery was fine at 14v tho. Ran my dinky cheap reader and it finally gave one code, P0304, my heart sank.

I'm gonna try to just replace plugs, boots, and coil pack, and pray it's nothing worse but I'm a out of my knowledge range here. Any suggestions on what to look at/for if the coils ain't it?

Welp, the time has come that I part with this car. Bought it at 60k miles and just sold it with 101k on the dash. Wasn’t the most reliable, but I will say it never left me stranded. Got to the point where I was putting too much money into it and wanted to move on from it, especially now that I do a lot more driving. I’ll miss this community (although I’m sure I’ll still stalk it) but I won’t miss the coolant leaks and the oil leak that it had as I parted with it.

So long Cruze 🫡 hopefully it treats the next owner well.

After some research I learned that short and long term fuel trim on a turbo engine are not adjusted the same way on a naturally aspirated engine UNDER LOAD. HOWEVER while IDLING or on LOW LOAD the fuel trim should be roughly the same.

So I monitored the same datas on the 1.4 turbo (140HP) and my other car, the suzuki swift 1.6 naturally aspirated (136 HP).

1st : I can observe that my O² sensors are out of cause (nice) the graphs look pretty similar.

2nd : On the suzuki the short term fuel trim is incredibly more stable no matter the engine load.

Base on the answers I got from my previous posts (thank you all) the possible causes are : _boost leak (whish I struggle to test even with the kit from cruzekit) _the catalyser (I'll try to find a cheap on in a junkyard) _fuel pressure (I just received a fuel kit pressure tester)

So I'm still investigating !! :) BUT if anyone can provide a graph with short and long term fuel trim on his 1.4 turbo I would be very grateful.🙏 I wish I could compare my datas with an engine with no mileage issues. I'm not 100% sure that my fuel trim datas is responsible for my bad mileage.

I just came back from an oil change and they quoted me a magnificent 140$ CAD to replace the air and cabin filter and an extra 400$ to fix a "major" oil leak in the head cover, whatever that is. I would assume it is the valve cover considering a lot of chevy owners seem to have the same issue.

What kind of trouble am I getting into if I do it myself? I already know how to change filters, even my dog could do it in 10min and even then, I'd feel scammed, but a valve cover is an entirely different story. Or is it?

Ordered about 3 weeks ago and got it today. Looks fairly good but there is a extra overflow outlet on the neck. Also the cap is junk. But the finish is great and the welds look nice and even.

I have a p0443 code that reads twice. I need to resolve the issue to pass emitions. I have a 2012 Ls. I have replaced the purge valve, cleaned & replaced the gas cap and inspected for broken wires. I recently put an injen cold air intake system, and the code showed up soon after. Any ideas of what is wrong with the EVAP system?

My 2011 Chevy Cruze check engine light came on recently, it'll do this thing there it says Engine Power Low and won't drive above 3 MPH or so. Sometimes I can turn the car off and on again and the problem won't happen again until the next day. An internet search said the problem is likely in the Throttle Body, but I wanted to check and confirm. Will cleaning or replacing the throttle body fix this issue? Thanks!

Mine is averaging 31.1. What does yours average?

I picked up a 2011 Cruze eco as a winter beater a few months ago. I recently replaced my valve cover and gasket and found that bolt 15 didn't reach the threads/the top couple threads were stripped from the previous owner. So I put RTV on the whole left edge of the gasket. This seal is fine so far but now I have a small oil leak from that bolt being loose. Any ideas to solve this without breaking the bank?

Got my first car ever, 2016 Chevy Cruze with just under 100K miles. Is there anything I should know about the Cruze?

I don’t really know much about cars.

But my car is Holden Cruze CDX 2010 diesel.

It drives fine sometimes, but when I’m going up hill it takes long time to get to full speed. Then when I’m going downhill it goes faster cause of gravity.

Sometimes it just takes awhile to get up to speed.

So why is my car doing this. I literally got it serviced last week lol

Whenever the car is at temp the car will randomly downshift and the rpms will jump from about 1500 to 4k then quickly up shift. today alone i drove to 2 places first it was fine but once it got up to temp i was driving back from the store and during slight acceleration the car downshifted and shot up to 5500. This issue has started happening awhile back when my coil packs went bad. Already have tried flushing and replacing trans fluid. any ideas? ive seen things like a bad solenoid.

2017 Chevy Cruze LT.

Car just went into limp mode. Auto Trans is only allowing car to drive in low gear with the "Drive lighg" flashing (limp mode).

Car has 79k miles with the trans fluid being changed 9k miles ago. Car was working fine before this.

Who's had this issue before and what is the typical fix?

https://preview.redd.it/m0kynj6ls5ge1.jpg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7c045c572d294a1e86df87453a40d158806ee156

I was driving along and my check engine light came on. I went to Autozone and the man said it could be my oxygen sensor or my catalytic converter... Then on my drive home, another light came on about my Stabilitrak. I have no clue what any of this means and I need your help. She's a 2018. Also when I brake, the car feels like it bounces, and when I'm idle at a light, the rpm's go really low and a lot of smoke comes from the back

https://preview.redd.it/r8bgmc3pt5ge1.jpg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=23fa6481f7eea6d94e1a933b8d47202fce7abbcb

The graph above shows : O² sensor (after the catalyser), fuel trim and engine load while the car is idling. When I rev the engine up (bottom red line) boom ! fuel trim hits 40% and O² sensor drops to 0v. When I slightly step on the gas pedal the same thing happens. (bottom white line)

Based on what I found on the internet, the O² sensor after the catalyser should have a smooth curve.

Got my 2014 Cruze last November. Lemon Car. Didn’t think I’d keep it long, but here I am 1 1/2 later. Check engine light was on when I bought it, they said it was the O2 Sensors. Changed them, and throughout the time of owning it, I’ve had to replace two belts, ignition coil, and spark plugs— still having issues… Then FINALLY went to O Reilly and found out it was my TCM. About six months now, I’ve been dealing with the check engine light, traction control, and power steering lights going on and off, with the car going idle at any moment when driving, several times.

This morning, I also noticed that my engine temperature gauge is rising, even though I put coolant in last week.

I’ve about had it with this car. My income comes from DoorDash, so I’m really worried. Any advice?

Is that year and that engine 1.8L no turbo with 160k miles on it a good deal for $2800, did not see or try the car yet but what do you think ? They say it runs without any issues and looks good from outside