I am repainting a vespa that it's paint is tired and worn. It has more vibrant red in spart parts over others and there are areas that need body work so that means that I have to paint over body filler.

Am I supposed to prime the entire vespa a single color first or can I add sufficient coats of Plastidip? If so how many coats typically result in a complete color change no matter the color underneath?

Is hyperdip piano black the glossiest black these days? I don’t think I want to mess with 2k clear on top of a peelable coating.

Anyone have any idea?

Joined the "Mom Minivan Club" – Now Let's Pimp It!

• Tires Are Trash in Sludge: My minivan's all-weather tires are awful. Coming from a 4x4, my husband insists I need winter tires. Fine, Blizzaks it is.
• Wheel Hunt Woes:
  • Plan to swap OEM 18" wheels for 17".
  • Anything that won't look ridiculous on a minivan (IMHO) costs $400+ per wheel, so I’m embracing the "ugly as sin" Steelies instead. They’re cheap, and I’m owning it.
• Toddler's Dream Wheels:
  • My car-obsessed toddler would lose his mind over neon wheels. Blaze orange, green, yellow—maybe one color per wheel for fun!
  • Sadly, no blaze/neon blue (from DYC), but is "Flex Blue" close enough?
• DIY Paint Plans:
  • Heated pole barn = perfect workspace.
  • Painting wheels before mounting tires. Paint the whole wheel or just the face? Will mounting ruin the paint?
  • Thinking of a 2x crystal topcoat for durability—how removable is that if I want to repaint? (Don't mind having to use solvents and elbow grease and they're just steelies so not trying to keep them pristine)
• Plastidip vs. Metal Paints:
  • Have paint sprayers but worry about ruining them with Plastidip. Rattle cans safer?
  • Found glow-in-the-dark neon metal paints— I could strip and repaint later if I use those, right?
• Road Salt Reality: Northern Michigan uses road salt like it's free glitter at a kindergarten craft party. Best base and topcoat for protection?
• Being Extra:
  • Neon wheels COULD be just the start. Should I dip the badges? Trim? Grill? How much is too much?
  • No shame—just aiming for toddler joy and public laughs.
  • Goal is to embrace the ridiculous instead of looking serious about the aesthetic.
• Annual Glow-Up: Love the idea of switching colors yearly or stripping it all when over it.

So, Plastidip pros and car customizers: Help me pimp this minivan for toddler-approved chaos! All tips and roasts welcome. Let’s hear it!

Link to album of what the van looks like, the Steelies I am currently considering, a couple bad AI renderings of what I am going for (DAL-E couldn't wrap it's head around the Steelies despite being fed a picture of them!), and a couple black cars with neons (I could potentially do neon on only some portions of the wheels too).

I will ABSOLUTELY come back and share pictures of what I end up with if ya'll want the laughs.

l like dip for the rims but I think im gonna sand an spray the body . Not really happy with how it turned out. Has anyone painted with the gallon of dip an sprayer? How did it turn out?

I'm gonna be dipping my car for the 1st time after I get my taxes. I had my budget figured out, but then I realized the kit I wanted can't be bought in Cali, and when I assembled the Cali equivilent it was a decent chunk more $$$. Then, looking thru the site I saw the ultimate sprayer. Googling, there's absolutely nothing about it other than what's on DYC's site. I know people said G-Force was a noticable step up from the OG discontinued one. And while I'm reconsidering my budget, I'm wondering if that same OG to G-Force difference would apply here too.

I've seen a lot of pics and videos from 1st timers who got amazing looking results with the G-Force, obviously the Ultimate's better, but would it even matter for someone like me? It's a lot damn more cash, but if I'm going to do it and the Ultimate would make a real difference it could be worth considering. As they saying goes, buy once, cry once lol.

As the title says, my vehicle was professionally liquid wrapped and clear coated. I have 3 small rock chips right on the side of my vehicle that cut all the way down to the original paint beneath. I have extra paint from the shop. I cleaned the area and then used a q-tip and did 4/5 coats to fill the chip up. But now I have a blob of extra plasti-dip material?

What’s the best solution to removing that blob? I read for normal paints I can use a lacquer paint thinner? AI was telling me to use a degreaser? I’m also reading to use isopropyl alcohol and just scrub it down?

Tl;dr: Has anyone patched rock chips in their liquid wrap and how did they fix the blob of extra paint when filling the chip?

I'm in the process of plasti dipping my 24 year old motorcycle. It's a cheap bike and the paint is in rough shape. Having it repainted would cost me about $700 and that's not worth it for me.

Therefore I'm looking at plasti dip as a fairly permanent solution, so I'm not worried about losing the ability to easily remove it.

For some extra protection and gloss I'm looking at either adding a glossifier top coat or straight clear coat.

Will I achieve the same amount of gloss with a few layers of glossifier? Is glossifier gasoline resistant? If not; is clear coat even an option? I've read people say it dissolves the plasti dip and at the same time people are using it just fine. Applying the plasti dip was extremely easy and forgiving. If glossifier is as good as clear coat, I'd rather use the glossifier.

Again: I'm not worried at all about removability. The original paint looks like crap.

Not sure if this is even plasti dip but it feels and seems like it. Got these rims form someone else and never liked the dipped look. Trying to remove it with a pressure washer and wd-40, but it literally won’t budge at all. I can scrape it with my finger a bit but that’s it. The chemicals do absolutely nothing. Any advice?

Hey there,

I'm looking to paint my monitor with a glossy white colour using plastidip. I thought id use painters tape to cover the parts i dont want to spray, and use the spray can versions rather than tin versions.

1. For future reference, whats the formula difference between the spray can and tin versions? I thought i heard that the tin paint isnt thinned? Or is that referencing the spray can?

2. Differences betwen plastidip craft and all the other ones??

3. Top coat vs glossifier, and in which order do i apply them on the base coat if i need both?

4. What are the differences in the white colour for all the different products?

5. How much product to use/how many coats, and approx how many cans will i need of each product? (I'l just watch a tutorial for this one lol... although maybe plastic needs more or less coats than other materials??)

Any other tips or suggestions welcome. Thanks!!

Or will the air get into the paint or something?

I’ve done over 6 coats and I’m not on my 4th can yet. Do I really need to finish all 4 cans? It seems excessive because I would have to cover 10 coats to finish them all.

328i 2015

Gonna be PlastiDipping my car early next year. I was really interested in the Dip Armor and ceramic coating. But of course neither can be bought in Cali. So I thought maybe I'd find somebody in NV, pay them to order it and take a mini vacation to go pick it up.

I understand without the dip armor a ceramic coating won't work right, so I came up with a different idea but after Googling I didn't find anything. Has anyone used a non ceramic spray coating? Like Gyeon Wet Coat, CarPro Hydr02 or something else that's spray on spray off. I want to have some form of protection, even if I have to reapply it once a month.

Honestly i dont think I really understand what this product is for, but I was given a few cans of it. Would spraying this on hard plastic wheels make them roll quieter / give more traction on pavement?

I want to dip my car in one of those, I'm trying to copy BMW's Miami Blue. On DYC's product pages both look similar but the Intense seems like it might be closer. But Googling and watching some YT videos I'm not sure because I looked at a bunch of pics and watched some videos. And both look different in different videos and pics.

I doubt anyone has seen both in person, but maybe someone has. Or maybe someone has seen 1 and Miami Blue and can comment.

Hi all, New here. I have dipped emblems on 4 of my vehicles and wheels on 1. I am not new to dipping but I can’t seem to find the answer for this one.

Can I use clear plasti dip primer over black wheels and put violet metalizer directly on the plasti dip primer?

2nd question: Does anyone know why the violet metalizer seems to be discontinued?

Thinking of spraying a bus. Lots to cover and I'm wondering if I can shoot it with my existing equipment.

Choices are a serious business airless which can shoot elastomerics and high solids epoxies easily, it's about a $4500 sprayer and freshly rebuilt with new line and gun.

Or a decent hvlp, can run anywhere from 1.3 to 2.3mm tip and either gravity fed or a 1 gallon pressure pot.

So i was blacking out my ute and tried masking off the red parts so they wouldnt get sprayed. Upon removing the tape, it just took all the dip with it. Anyone know a fix?

I have a 2017 ford edge with 19’ aluminum wheels and I want to have them glossy black. I’ve been wanting to do it ever since I got my car but I had to go to college so I never got the chance until now. I want advice if I should use plastidip or hyperdip since I see that hyper dip is more professional looking but harder to apply and more expensive, and plastidip is much easier and cheaper but harder to get as good looking as hyperdip. I’m planning on also adding 2k gloss to whichever I choose. My thought is that while yeah plastidip won’t look as good compared to hyperdip, the 2k gloss will bring it much more up to par. My wheels have little imperfections but nothing big. Ive watched videos and such on the matter but haven’t been able to see much difference so I wanted peoples opinions. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated!!!

Photos Here: https://imgur.com/a/QNeEcpA

So after this post here (https://www.reddit.com/r/plastidip/comments/wxghi4/experience\_with\_jaydip\_100/), I want to share my experience with the same 'dipper'.

Unfortunately my ruddy ass didn't check reddit for feedback and I blindly followed his posts on instagram and his messages.

Scope of work was to dip 2 cars, full trim black out, dip on body.

Starting with Honda:

Scope of work: SOW was to paint the vehicle burnt copper, black dip on the wheels and black out/trim protect on all the trim pieces. The badges were to be removed and re-installed to maintain factory look. Hood deflector was pointed out by me, that will require removal and re-installation.

1. Badge: Initial commitment was to remove and re-install, then when I arrived there, I was handed the badges (Passport, Elite and AWD) and to order new ones.
2. Front deflector: Removed/broken "Bro, it was not saveable". No communication on breakage, I had to order replacement
3. Trim pieces not secured: Front L and Front R Wheel Arch, Rear L and Rear R Door trim pieces not secured(4) . I ordered 2x trims and clips.
4. Weather stripping not installed properly (All 4 doors): Lots of wind noise
5. Door plugs missing (25mm Honda) found 1 eventually. Had to order the other one.
6. Rear number plate (sandwich type) holder: Removed without checking with me, Bottom piece missing.
7. Front plate frame: Again replaced without checking with me. Thankfully was present in garage.
8. B Pillar scratched and gouged during removal/installation of weather strip.

Additional installation issues:

1. Both front door panels not installed correctly. Foam sticking out from both sides.
2. Door handles swapped between Rear L and Rear R. Door handles were sticky and not easy to operate. Misaligned. I had to open both door panels and swap the handles for proper operation.
3. Vapor Barrier and sound insulation damage on Driver's door.
4. Driver's door: Door actuator connector unplugged. Not locking/unlocking.
5. Pending item: Driver's door auto unlock not working. I am working to get the code reset.

Time spent by me/customer. ~ 2 hours on door issues. Additional 2 hours identifying parts to order.

Orders placed:

1. $66.44 for trim pieces
2. $406.60 for misc molding bits and weather stripping.
3. $183.97 for deflector, vapor seal and other parts.
4. Weather strip retainers: $15.16
5. B pillar panel cover trim: $25.97
6. Additional trim clips for replacement: $57.54

Total known expenditure so far: $755.68

2nd car: (Challenger)

Scope of work: Commitment was to remove the roof vinyl, trunk vinyl and side T/A vinyls. Then paint the wheels and paint body Titanium Silver with Holo shift. Trim was to be blacked out.

Change in Scope based on prior work: I requested for trim to not be painted looking at the damage done on the Honda. I did the trim myself at home. He said since the commitment was done at $2600, he cannot adjust the amount for the trim paint/black out. I did not accept or reject that statement, I was concerned about the quality of work.

We spoke over the phone of the quality of work done on the Honda and my concerns with the Challenger which is extremely special to me.

2. Ordered Removal drill and wheels for $275.76 at hisrequest. My understanding was that he is familiar with vinyl removal and have the experience/know how to do this based on presentation, and conversation.

Damage report:

He calls me in the middle of the week asking for money for an ongoing legal issue. (additional loan on work on top). This is after I have already paid him $4200 ($2600 + $1600)

I headed to him in the night and Car was picked up due to on-going legal issues/concerns to avoid delays. Only wheels were painted silver which are a $400 service item. Even then the wheel hubs were covered in overspray so a cheaper wheels on job.

1. Rear trunk paint is heavily damaged with multiple gouges raining from 1 to 3 inches in the paint that have exposed the bare metal. This needs immediate treatment to prevent rusting.
2. Front Bumper has a deep gouge in the paint that will need a fill, paint and polish. His comment was "Yeah I touched it with the wheel and it just came out". Which demonstrates lack of experience or expertise with vinyl removal.

$1600 was paid in advance for the Challenger.

Damage repair and vinyl removal estimate; $1,752 from a local body shop. This does not include any time spent and lost without vehicle in usable state.

Total known expenditure so far (Honda + Challenger): $2507.68.

Deal with him at your own risk! I am exploring small claims to get my money back.

I was planning to tape off this trim but with the rubber gasket, the tape line may not end up clean so I'm wondering if I'm good to just dip right over this?

I have paint peeling on my car, it hasn’t fully came off yet but it will soon. If I plasti dip my car matte black and just spray over it will it last and keep rust out until I can afford a proper repaint?

I plasti dipped my mirrors today and when I pulled the tape I got a tear in one of the mirrors.

Do I have to respray the whole thing to fix this? It takes a long time to prep these mirrors so overspray doesn’t hit my car.

Would a paint pen work? I don’t care about the chrome in the back, or I saw a method of spraying dip in a cup and then using a paint brush.

Any suggestions would be appreciated thank you guys

I’ve taped out my car emblem and have coated four times with plastidip. Would like to make glossy.

How long do I need to wait to apply glossifier? Should I add it while I am still taped out? Will it be just as easy to remove tape and excess after I apply the glossifier?

Thanks. Looks pretty cold so far