Just bought a 2011 Impala from a family friend. I have no idea what to do here to pass inspection .I've looked for parts and videos and they all do and say different things. People say it's a VVT but those are two different things others say it's a sensor or different parts but I really am stumped. I don't have the cash to throw random parts at it with fingers crossed. Just did a fresh oil change if that helps. Not a car guy by any means. Anything helps if anybody has had the same issue

At the end of September I bought a new 2024 Silverado with the 6.2L. Loved it, sounded great, had tons of pickup and go and was fully loaded. Right after Christmas it started making a funny noise from the exhaust, almost sounded like the raddle from a small two-stroke. I immediately took it to the dealer and after two weeks of diagnostic with the help of corporate, they determined the bearings on the crankshaft where faulty and the crankshaft had 3x the allowable play, the engine block was damaged and the entire engine would need to be replaced, under warranty of course. Truck was 3 months old with just under 4k miles. What I was hearing, the play on the crankshaft was bad enough to cause the exhaust to rattle. After a week of waiting for them to source a new engine, last Friday they informed me they would be unable to get an engine and that GM would be contacting me to buy back the the truck. This week I was contacted by a department at GM dedicated to buy backs, they said the buy back offer would be in accordance with my states Leman Law. I gave the a bunch of information about the sale and my loan l, awaiting there offer. I also talk to a consumer law lawyer in my area and he also confirmed the buy back would be in accordance with Virginia lemon law. I will update when the buy back is complete, in case anyone else is having problems with there 6.2L. This is the same engine the NHTSA just issued an investigation on.

So I purchased a (used) 2019 Equinox LT from a non-Chevrolet dealership. The key that the dealership provided doesn’t seem to be the common keyfob (3-Button. Lock, Unlock, Alarm) for the keyless entry/start vehicles and doesn’t give me access to some of my cars features remotely like other LT’s I’ve seen.

I found out I can get the MyChevrolet app and with OnStar my car does have remote start features (a godsend in New England Winter). I also have the Power Liftgate with the button on the driver side door to open the liftgate from the drivers seat.

All this to ask, although my car came with a 3 button fob, am I able to “upgrade” to the 4+ button fob that also has the remote start button and the “power liftgate x2” button since these are both features built into the car? I can’t get a clear answer from the parts department at my local Chevrolet dealership, they haven’t said no, but they also haven’t said yes and given me the option to purchase said keys.

I have a Tahoe that is giving me a couple issues. The power windows on the driver side (front and back) cannot be operated from the driver seat. Passenger side windows work correctly from driver seat. Passenger side windows work correctly from passenger seat. The radio also stays on after turning vehicle off and opening driver side door. Radio will stay on for a prolonged x amount of time until it eventually times out and shuts itself off.

I did a bit of research and read where the Retained Accessory Power Module may be going bad, but I’m not 100 percent sure. Is there anyone that has ran into this issue before or could point me in the right direction? Thanks.

MANY years ago I used to spin wrenches at a Chevy dealership in Virginia, but cars these days are a whole new beastie. I bought a 2014 Equinox and learned pretty quickly that a basic ODBC2 scanner isn't going to help me diagnose an intermittent "Service Power Steering" message. I've been reading up on diagnostic scanners (new tool to me) that go beyond basic codes. A GM Tech 2 is way out of my budget for a tool I would only use when something seems off. Can anyone tell me if something like the Foxwell BT510 Elite bi-directional scanner would tell me what's actually triggering the message?

Thank you!

I have a 2010 Chevrolet Malibu. The headlights both stopped working. I have replaced both bulbs, relay, and fuses. Still no headlight action. Any suggestions?

Hi, i need help. I am looking for my 1st car. I saw this car that is from an elderly with only 72,000 miles for $2,000. She said the paint is fading and needs new gages but other than that its good. I don't have any records of oil changes. I don't really know much about cars, does needing new gages a bad thing and is it expensive? Please help. here are some pictures.

https://preview.redd.it/4v7dbaq7y4ge1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7d1de64444c180c4f62f3992cb7c1cce13ca487d

Taking 2021 traverse in for service and in going to do a transmission service per the owners manual recommending it at 45,000 miles. Which is about how many miles I have on it. My question is should I have them do the transmission fluid change or complete flush? Owners manual doesn't specify. Dealer is saying to flush it. But not sure that's necessary at just 45,000 miles. They may just want more money. There are no issues with my transmission right now. This is purely just preventative maintenance. A flush is about twice the price, (about $400). So thought I'd ask what you all thought?

Title. I'm talking with a dealership, got offered $51,500 for a 2025 Blazer, RS trim with AWD. Is that a good deal OTD(with taxes)?

Repair shop is saying i have a bad torque converter and want to charge 3000 dollars for it . Possible to do myself? i have a couple handy people around me. How much does it typically cost ?

2024 Trailblazer

So my 2024 trailblazer just stopped in the middle of the highway. Everything went black, breaks and engine stopped working, couldn’t even stop the car. Luckily there was roadworks and I rolled right into unused roads. Getting a tow to the dealer but here are the error messages my app is showing:

System battery charging

Service charging system

Break system failure

Service Stabilitrak

Service Parking Break

Service Theft Detrernent System

Break system failure

Any advice/knowledge about what just happened

We have 3 kids. Infant seat and 2 car seats with one being forward facing and one rear facing. The car has captain seats so wondering how you all configure for it to be most comfortable for all? 4.5 year old can buckle himself but I do like to check it

I have a 2018 Equinox and last week I had the battery replaced with a new one. Since then, the check engine light has been on, the remote start doesn't work, and the stop/start isn't occurring. I have read that it takes some time for the computer or something to recalibrate after a battery change but how long is 'too' long? Both these features worked fine before the new battery was installed.

Okay, so don't come for me too hard please 🫣 But last week I accidentally put a little bit too much oil in my 2021 Trailblazer (2 quarts). I hadn't had an oil change for a while and I also hadn't put oil in for a while so I figured it probably was pretty empty. I'm not sure what I was thinking, my dad definetly taught me better than to just blindly pour a bunch of oil into the resouvior. Anyway, luckily my car is fine as I did not drive it far once I realized it was not operating well and became a ball of oil burning smoke. I wanted to move it until morning, without driving it and my friend(s) that came said to put it in "accessory mode" but we couldn't get it into neutral to push it into a parking spot? I had to turn the engine on and drive it forward. How do you get a push start into accessory mode, or are you even able to?

I drive a 2010 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3l. I went in for an oil change knowing I have some leaks. They quoted me a full reseal or replace the motor. Was told it’ll cost about how much I still owe on it. I don’t want to get rid of the truck so I’m stumped on what to do. I’m debating on between selling the truck and using left over money for a down payment, trading in the truck and go negative a little bit for another truck, or saving money and fix rebuild the front of a different truck and drive it to save money to replace the motor in my truck. Just want to get y’all’s opinion. TIA

Picked up a 2019 1/2 ton single cab WT with 147K miles on it. The truck starts easy (no hesitation) and runs decent, except it is blowing white smoke. I still need to do some tests on it, but in the meantime, I'm leaning towards a head gasket failure. Assuming it is a HG, I will either have both heads rebuilt or purchase new/reman heads. It looks like CARiD has a ACDelco Cylinder Head (12629342) for just over a $100. For that kind of a deal (assuming it isn't a fluke), it makes no sense taking it to a machine shop.

To my understanding, the engine never over heated and the coolant reservoir bottle still has coolant in it.

Is there anything I should be looking at to diagnose this issue aside from a coolant system pressure test? Any other issues I should be aware of or any common causes of the white smoke associated with this engine?

What else should I do while the heads are out?

Hi everyone,

About six months ago, I bought a used 2020 Astra K with the GM-manufactured VT40/CVT250 CVT transmission and the F14SHT (L3T) 1.3/1.4L engine (145 HP). The car had 94,000 miles when I got it and was fully maintained by its first owner, a bank.

So far, the car runs very smoothly, and I enjoy the comfort and overall driving experience—apart from the slight acceleration delay common with CVTs. However, I’m starting to worry about the long-term reliability of the transmission.

The same engine and transmission combination has been used in cars like the Buick Encore GX, Chevrolet Trailblazer, and other Chevys, which seem more common in the U.S. than here in Germany. I’m asking here because there’s very little experience or knowledge about this setup in Germany, and I was hoping someone in this group might have insights.

The transmission fluid has never been changed, and I’m currently debating between two options:

1. Getting the fluid changed now to maintain the transmission, OR
2. Selling the car and switching to an older, more "reliable" model with traditional transmission technology.

My concern is that if the transmission fails, the replacement costs would be significant, and I need to be mindful of my expenses. This is a medium-term financial decision for me, so reliability is key.

Does anyone here have experience with the VT40/CVT250 transmission? Is it reliable with proper maintenance, or am I better off moving on to something else?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

https://preview.redd.it/avqa63fyfcfe1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=44ad3e5ccadc24b486107274bb073420a1270f99