My switchback leds will light up white when I turn the drl on, ONLY, when I have a halogen bulb in the other socket. If I have switchback leds in both sockets, there just amber, acting just like normal amber leds. Do i need resistors?

99 jeep cherokee xj 4.0l

Hey guys , still learning as a mechanic.

Im asking this hypothetical if I ever encounter it. I remember if you have a air in the brakes to inspect for leaks.

However I also remember that if you can’t find anything either point your finger at the master cylinder. Is this how you would go about it? How would you differentiate between an internal leak in the master cylinder vs ABS. Cause I know it’s a pain to unbolt both of them just to check if there’s a leak.

2015 Jeep JK Wrangler 165,000 miles Pentastar V6 3.6L

This summer, passenger side head gasket blows. Lots of white smoke and passenger side misfires galore. No overtemp indicated on the temp gauge but the sensor is in the driver side head. I tear everything apart to replace both head gaskets. Only oddity I see is that in the passenger side head there is some scorched oil residue around the valve train - def had some excessive heat in there. Driver side looks perfect. Both heads and the block are still super flat - def within flatness spec per the factory manual. Pop in the new head gaskets and put everything back together. For 200 miles it runs like a champ. Then one day I can suddenly smell coolant again and there is white smoke at the tailpipe. No misfires or check engine light but plenty of smoke. I’m happy to tear it apart again but not if there isn’t some probability of actually fixing it for good this time. I can’t believe it would be something as bad as a cracked block or head since it worked so well for 200 miles after the first repair. Any thoughts on why it might have gone bad a second time and what I should be looking for? Thanks!

Trying to change the oil on my motorcycle but the filter was being stubborn and basically felt like it was welded on. Tried making a hole and using a screwdriver as leverage but it did not work. Also tried using the oil filter clamp remover but did not have much success. Any tips to get it off?

Have a 2004 Infiniti G35, holds 5 quarts of oil, and I recently changed the oil right about at the 5000 miles the filter was rated for. When I emptied it only a half quart came out! Doesn’t look like it’s leaking it. Don’t know if anyone has any ideas about how to stop it or how bad this might be for the engine?

Is a 2010 suburu Forester with 79k miles for 10k a better financial decision than a Toyota RAV4 for 10k with average miles of probably 120k.

Hi all, just wanted to get a sense on the likeliness this was caused by a rear end.

Last week, got rear ended on an interstate. We exchanged insurance and I have been working with their insurance and a shop to get the bumper replaced and a rocking issue going on fixed. I have been driving it to and from work the last few days and suddenly today it lost all oil leaving my driveway. Luckily I was able to circle around and get it on my street within a minute a so.

Am I crazy to think that the oil pan or head gasket could’ve been damaged and just cracked after a few days?

I had the car in for maintenance the week before the accident and they did an inspection, noted a few parts coming to EOL, but didn’t note any other concerns.

Should I replace oil pump and timing belt together, or can they be replaced one at a time?

Oil pump is the main thing I need replaced. Can I change that first, then reschedule for timing belt?

Thanks for the help!

Hello all,

I'm curious how much harm it does to my engine when I hard accelerate. I have a Hyundai Beta 2 engine which I baby on work days and I follow my car's maintenance care to a T.

On weekends I want to have fun. I'm much harder on acceleration and will take more mountainous roads so I can hear the beautiful hum on an engine (I know 4 bangers aren't 6 or 8 cyl but they still sound great at 4.5+k rpm). One day I'll get a more powerful car for track days, but until then I really enjoy what I have and want to know how much harm I actually do driving hard one to two days a week.

Hi there, i have a 2003 Honda Jazz . Tonight the key strruggled to get in the ignition and the rescue company said I need a new ignition barrel. Is this an expensive repair , I've just spent £750 on MOT and I'm reluctant to spend anymore. Thanks.

Okay so here’s what happens. This only occurs after my car hasn’t run in a while, typically first thing in the morning. The car shakes like crazy, and when I apply the brakes it completely stalls with the fuel and battery light turning on. Aside from this, if I let the car run for 5 minutes or so, and take off, this doesn’t happen. I feel like it could be so many things, like the fuel delivery, the brake booster, a leak, or something like that. Anyone know?

Hello! I have a 2011 hyundia elentra. I recently changed the suspion (sway bar. Ball join. Tie rod and strut) my drivers side. When I turn the wheel while stationary I get a knocking noise. When I hit i bump a get a knocking noise as if my ball joint or sway bar is lose ( sway bar/link kit). Very loud can't find the source. Have any ideas ? Also hoping it dangerous to drive.

I recently changed my injectors in my 2005 Chevy 6.0 with AC Delco normal injectors. My vehicle will sometimes start fine. Example when starting: crank, crank, crank then car starts. But also it will sometimes go just one crank and then struggle start. Any ideas? Hope my example made sense.

2002 Jeep Wrangler. Tried about everything including air hammer to try and get the fan clutch bolt to let loose. Can’t seem to get it. Any suggestions?? Pretty sure it’s the OG bolt.

Hearing a metal on metal sound on the passenger side while braking after doing a brake replacement with a 2019 VW Tiguan.

Basically, the sound you'd hear with worn out pads and rotors but they're brand new. Drivers side is not making this sound.

Took the wheel off and disassembled/reassembled all the brake components. There's a little brake grease on the back of the pad in contact with the piston...and I put a little on the ears of the pads as well.

I checked everything over and nothing looks out of place or wrong. Any common issues to check?

Hey guys, just wondering if any of you have any experience with the 3.3 v6? I have a 21 f150. Just curious if anyone’s got any tips or advice for the engine or if you’ve experienced any problems.

2018 Hyundai Elantra eco. As the title says. I decided to try to do a transmission fluid replacement myself to try to learn. Watched quite a few videos but all of them show a bolt with a square indent in it as the bolt for the fill port. In a similar spot in my car is this little rubber plug which looks much smaller than the port in all the videos. I pulled it out and it almost looks like there’s is no hole behind it. I figured I’d check here before doing something stupid and draining my fluid with no way to refill.

I have a question about scan tool updates, specifically Autel but other brands would be nice to know.

If I update my scanner after chosing not to update it for a few years, will the one time update add compatibility only for the year i update it, or also for the years i opted out to update? Do i have to pay for the years missed?

For example, if I bought the scanner in 2020, and did not update it until 2024, do i pay a one time yearly update fee to get all the missing features from 2021-2024 or do i have to pay for all 4 years to get full compatibility?

Thanks!

2006 Toyota Matrix base

Vibrates while going straight or turning left. When I turn right the vibration stops completely and then starts harshly again when straightening out the wheel. Worse at some speeds than others. Holding the brakes seems to quiet it down.

Based off of all this, I just replaced the front passenger wheel bearing. NOTHING changed about the vibration at all. Did I incorrectly diagnose the side? Do i need to replace the driver side bearing? What else could this be, a bit lost now after doing that wheel bearing for nothing.

I’ve got a truck that’s been sitting for about 3 months without being driven. The battery was dead, so I’m jump-starting it, but it’s taking longer than I expected. Just want to make sure I’m following the right steps to get it started and to check if there’s anything I should be cautious about that could indicate a bigger issue.

When I try to start it, all I get is a clicking sound with no engine turnover. Is this normal for a vehicle that’s been sitting unused for a few months?

2002 VW beetle. Is the light on the bottom left for the hood or trunk, or something else entirely?