Hello, im planning on installing a cold air intake (mostly for sound) because i know i might lose some power in some cases.

Im planning on installing the intake in front of the radiator (will put a heat shield) just behind the grille.

My question is, how much of a problem is water going to be? when washing the car, im obviously not going to direct the flow of the jet to the intake, but some water mist will still get on it, although im not sure it will be enough liquid to accumulate in the filter and actually get sucked into the engine and damage it.

Second case would be rain, how much water can realistically get through the grille into the cone filter when driving through heavy rain? I have a W208 which has a grille with fins that point downard. I’ve never noticed water getting through the grille after rain.

Can anyone help me come up with a better solution or is it fine if i install it in the grille? Sorry for the grammar.

I have a 2020 RAM 1500 classic and it failed inspection due to the front pads and rotors needing to be replaced. The mechanic quoted me at $850 for them. Not all four, just the front! My rear pads and rotors were half the cost and this is a rear wheel drive truck. I feel $850 is an absolute rip off for front pads and rotors

Drove it for 20 min and car started to slow down. Noticed ABS light onIt was struggling to advance. Until it got to a point where it won’t move. That’s when I noticed smoke coming out of the left rear brakes. I had to tow it. Got home and tried moving it and it worked perfectly. Anyways I thought maybe brake lines are clogged because of the cold. I flushed all the brake lines. Found a abs wire was cut. Fixed it . ABS light gone. Drove for another 20 minutes and now the 4 wheels are locked and brakes almost caught fire. What could it be help please

I'd been experiencing all the signs of a failing clutch / throw bearing (vibrating pedal, engine overreving, sequealing when my foot was down on the clutch, bad pickup) so I sent out to multiple shops for a quote to have it replaced (the mileage in my car is right on par with when a clutch should need to be replaced).

Took it in to one of the better offers that had good Yelps and was close by. They diagnosed and recommended replacing the clutch. However, gave me a price that was $300-600 higher than their initial quote, claiming extra costs for diagnostics and fluid replacement (maybe an unrelated brake fluid flush and oil change which they were being unclear about), and potentially a new fly wheel. When I protested, they essentially said it's standard in the industry for quotes to misrepresent the actual price. I talked to the woman who gave me the initial quote, mentioning how other places prices included everything, and she agreed to honor the original quote, but awkwardly still pressed on in asking if I wanted the brake fluid flush or oil change.

I thought about just paying for the diagnostic and towing to another shop, but due to time constraints and money, I had to just gamble and leave it there. When I asked them when the car would be ready, they gave me a date that was a full 5 days after when I initially brought it in (and my prediction is that they're going to delay it again when the time comes). They could just be busy, but my concern is that they're extremely money driven and unhappy about having to honor the price and might be putting me on the back burner / using really cheap parts. I use my car to do deliveries so it's the source of my income so very stressed. Also thought it was an example of bad judgement on their part when they wanted the tech to drive me home in my own car so they could diagnose the problem at the same time (they list as having a customer shuttle on their website, guess the customer is the shuttle).

My question is: should I be worried? Am I overreacting? At what point should I pull the plug on this? Should I ask for receipts on parts to make sure I didn't get a clutch off the scrap heap in the junk yard? Any advice is appreciated.

So I have a 2006 Fiat Stilo 8V Multijet (120hp) with a 1.9l diesel engine, which uses a Bosch common rail injection system. I am getting a reading of up to 1500 bar fuel pressure during idle (!), while the desired fuel pressure is merely around 350 bar - https://youtu.be/iZK_u2Q133w If I minimally raise the RPMs above idle, the desired and measured fuel pressures track nicely and are capable of being as low as 400bar.

This all started after I replaced the in-tank fuel pump and a relay/fuse block (because the fuel pump fuse melted in the old one). Here is the chronological order of everything that happened:

1. In tank fuel pump died, and fuel pump fuse melted. I replaced the in tank fuel pump and the fuse block (fuel pump was an aftermarket part, the fuse block is the exact same part number with the same year of manufacture as the old one).
2. The car idled for ~20min without a problem and was driven for around 45 min. The power and everything else seemed fine, was able to reach top speed as always.
3. I suddenly get a “check engine” light while stationary at a red light. Upon further investigation, it’s “P0093 - Fuel pressure too high” and I notice that the desired versus measured fuel pressures are almost 700 bar apart (measured is around 1000 bar, desired 350) during idle.
4. I replaced the in tank fuel pump once again, didn’t help. I also unplugged low pressure fuel hoses at various locations (return pipe at the tank, before fuel filter, after fuel filter,…) and verified that fuel indeed moves through the system (the pump primes every time you switch the ignition on, so it’s easy to verify the fuel is getting through).
5. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator (fuel quantity regulator) with a new one, didn’t help (I also visually verified the regulator works by performing the OBD2 test on it while removed from the HP pump)
6. Replaced the fuel pressure sensor with a new one - didn’t help, but the measured fuel pressure during idle became even higher, spiking up to almost 1500 bar.
7. Injection correction values are +- 0.8, which is not great, but also not terrible.

There are not many remaining parts I can try and swap out, but what worries me are posts like these: https://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/showthread.php/998420-Fiat-Croma-fault-code-P0093

This person changed almost all injection system parts on the car, and it didn’t help. In general this specific code/fault has very few mentions on the internet, and none of the forum threads offer any kind of information if people having them ever found the culprits.

The potentially logical option could be that the high pressure pump got damaged somehow (maybe because I was cranking the car for too long while the in tank fuel pump was dead?), or maybe something with injectors? Another interesting point I read on an another forum was - is the HP pump even capable of producing 1500 bar during idle?

Anyway, I’m kind of running out of ideas, since as far as I can tell, these injection systems almost always fail by not producing enough pressure, not making too much of it. Any opinion or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all, I've replaced piston rings and did an engine rebuilt on a Audi A6 C6 2.0T. it had a problem of oil consumption, basically 1 qt every 600 miles. Now it's better, but after 2600 miles the oil level on the gauge is below half. Oil used is Castrol 5w40 C3.

Does the consumption get better with time, or could it be that something is wrong ? I heard that no matter what you do, a turbocharged engine will consume a bit of oil

I have a 2014 Nissan Versa Note.

CEL came on when driving to work. On the drive home that day, car began shaking and felt like an engine misfire.

I brought it in the next morning to a mechanic who ran diagnostic. P0303, P0300, and P2096. Cylinder misfire and the P2096 said post catalyst Fuel trim too lean. I had told them when I brought it in that it could be the Catalytic that caused the misfire.

They quoted me to repair saying it wasn’t the converter, and i happily paid them. (The repaired the misfire, some new sparkplugs, etc.)

About a week later the CEL comes back on. I take it in this morning and same P2096 error code. THIS time they swear it’s the Catalytic (like i told them I suspected originally) and quote a full price for that repair.

I ask them “If you got that same error code last time, and didn’t fix it, is there anything you can do price wise to bring this down?”

They said “Last time we fixed a misfire. This is a bad Cat.”

But the Bad Cat caused the misfire and I told them as much.

After a back and forth they agreed to come down on labor and I—knowing i need this car tonight for work—agreed.

But I still feel a little cheated. Is this fair?

Hello!

I drive a 2015 Hyundai Genesis sedan with 120k miles, and the engine was replaced under warranty at 99k miles. A couple of days ago, while waiting at a red light, the car felt like it was going to stall, but it recovered quickly. I took it to a mechanic, but they didn’t find anything wrong. However, the issue happened again a few days later, and my friend (not a mechanic but a car enthusiast) wanted to scan the car with his snap on scanning device. He mentioned that the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) voltage was low. When we researched, we found that the idle should be 0.5V and at full throttle, it should be around 4.5V. My car is showing 0.5V at idle, but when I press the gas, the voltage only goes up to about 1.1V to 1.4V. I will take it back to my mechanic and explain tomorrow but Could this be the issue?

I’d really appreciate any recommendations you might have.

Thank you!

I'm really struggling financially and I need to prioritize costs. My vehicle (2017 dodge journey 94 thousand miles) has a loud power steering pump issue and leaks, but it's not like pouring out. I never see any drops under the vehicle but the power steering fluid does leak gradually. I plan on keeping it topped off until my finances get better. Does this estimate sound right to you? He said it is a pretty major job and that the leaking is coming from the power steering rack specifically. It is an AWD if that makes any difference.

I'm changing the coolant in the B17 2019. I looked a lot and couldn't find the engine block drain, only the radiator drain. There is a video that shows a Sentra +- 2016 but mine is a different place. Does anyone know where the block drain is on this car?

2006 Volvo S40 1.8 75 000 miles. New plugs, oil, and filter

https://reddit.com/link/1iekdjp/video/y5c2hgug8dge1/player

I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla CE. A week ago, my check engine light came on so I took it in to my mechanic. They did a diagnosis and told me it was a mass air flow sensor issue. So they replaced that. 2 days later the check engine light comes back on. I take it into Autozone, whose print out states it is an Intake Manifold Gasket issue. The workers at Autozone also told me I was way overcharged. My total bill is as follows:

Diagnosis - $130
MAF (Delphi MAF Sensor AF10135) - $265
Labor (Replacement and cleaning) - $120

My first question is: was I overcharged for parts and labor? I did an online check and parts were between $85 - $100 for that exact same model, with most people stating it is a 10 minute job at most. Secondly, was I incorrectly diagnosed and had to get an unnecessary (and very expensive repair) for my car? I really don't know much about cars so any advice on how to move forward will be so appreciated!

Alright. I have a 09 AMG E63 I have recently discovered a small coolant leak. Upon some investigation I found a old bulletin about stretching headstuds. I have called and called many shops all to just be ran around not a soul even dealers will not touch this. I have decided I am going to take this on myself and am having troubles finding much if any information on this repair. Has anyone taken on such a repair here? I'm looking for some guidance on tools needed, time, and anything else that can help this process along.

How screwed am I?

I have a 2012 f150 that when im driving around 55-60mph the truck vibrates I see the bed go up and down. My mechanic said its the harmonic balancer. I replaced new tir#e, shocks, and balance tir#e twice. I did see the harmonic balancer or how ford says cranckshaft pulley kind of uneven when turned on. He said that once I hit the the 55mph since its uneven it gets worse and could ultimately break the belt. My question is does this uneven of balancer cause the truck to shake?

Yes my car door is closed and I pressed the button like a million times. I leave it off still not turning off. So possibly wiring issue. Is there anyway I can just take my lights out?

Does anyone know the thread size for the fill hole on the 10l1000 transmission for a 2020 GMC Sierra 2500HD Diesel?

I'm looking to find an adapter I can use on a an oil filler that I can screw in to the fill port. So if someone knows an adapter or even a kit that would fit that would be helpful as well.

TLDR: You can hear the sound at 0:40, is it a normal sound for diesel engines?

Hello, does this engine sound is ok for common rail engines or this is something I should pay attention to?

The engine in the recording below is warm, this is not a cold start, I am worried about potential hidden issues. Thanks for all replies!

https://reddit.com/link/1iejd82/video/hy6iprb01dge1/player

Hi,
I bought recently a 1990 Mitsubishi Pajero for 5000 EUR. I live in Finland so perfect, rust-free winter-driven cars don't exist. I took these pictures from underneath. I cannot really tell just visually to be honest.

Did I overpay for the car, did I buy junk?

The pictures:
https://imgur.com/a/WeaKlYw