This alternator and battery are 6 months old, replaced the battery when I replaced the alternator.

Driving today the battery light came on so I pulled over, and tried to see what could be the problem. (Last alternator would smoke and the coils would fly little flames not sparks. Anyways, pulled the cover off of this red (assuming positive/power line) and it was all ashy.

Could the wire be the cause of why I’m going through alternators?

Had another one replaced 2 years ago, then that one went out 6 months ago and now this..

It’s an 08 ford mustang base

I’m trying to solve a small evap leak on a 2016 kia optima 2.4. Can someone tell me what that white thing is spliced into the hose going to the purge valve? (Purge is in lower right of picture).

So I failed my inspection, frame rot and the emissions tests were incomplete, “not ready”. Wonder if the bank 2 sensor 2 is my issue by the look of that graph. No codes. This is a 2011 Chevy Silverado 1500

I just bought the car today. I test drove it and scanned it at the dealership. There were some transfer case codes for actuator or something and wouldnt shift into 4×4 low but i figured its the actuator. When i got home i drove it a little hard around my neighborhood and just as i pulled into the garage the check engine light came on i scanned the jeep got p1524.

I read somwhere that if you use a cheap oil filter it can set the code for oil pressure. Im assuming they changed the oil and filter at the dealership using cheap aftermarket parts. Any advice on what i should do uf changing the oil and filter doesnt fix the issue would be much appreciated

TLDR: any common fixes for 2010 jeep grand cherokee 5.7l hemi code p1524?

hi all,

huge thanks in advance for any clues. I drive a 2005 Ford Econoline 350E . My oil pressure has a recurring issue, while driving (engine hot, engine cold, uphill, downhill, braking, accelerating, seems to be no pattern.) the Check Gauges light will come on and the oil pressure will briefly bob down to zero then bounce right back up to normal. Six / seven months ago this was a recurring issue for a few weeks, I changed the oil the problem went away until yesterday. It’s not burning oil, the levels are fine. It is about due for another change - but not very soon.

One other thing is the check engine light has been throwing code 420 - bank 1 cat converter - for over a year now, so curious if they could be related.

I replaced the fuel filter a month ago so i know it’s it not that at least

Thank you!?

Howdy y'all. I just bought a 2000 Honda Civic DX sedan 1.6 ltr. It has 210,000 miles on it. But it's a one owner car. Used to belong to the wife of our mechanic. The question I have is... What should I lookout for in terms of major issues? I've never owned a Honda before and I've heard mixed stories about them. But I test drove it and it runs like it's brand new so far. Any advice would be great.

For the record (though I’m sure you will infer) I am young and stupid and know absolutely NOTHING about cars. I have a 2014 BMW 328i.

Yesterday a pop up came up onto my dashboard screen saying add 1 qt oil as soon as possible. I popped the hood and found the cap with the oil symbol on it and poured a full qt of oil in and shut it.

Today I noticed a strange gas-like smell in my car and drove it maybe 10-15 miles before stopping and checking the engine. Oil seemed to be leaking out from some unknown source and had spread all over tons of shit and was smoking a bit, which was presumably causing the odor.

I obviously left my car where it was and didn’t start or drive it anymore. I don’t know what caused this problem or how serious or concerning it is, but I was told to get it towed to a mechanic shop.

Do I need to get it towed? Is it possible to drive it to the shop? Is my car absolutely screwed and totaled? Did some user error on my part likely cause this? What are y’all’s thoughts?

Hey guys, mechanic in town is closed because it’s sunday so I thought I‘m just gonna ask for some thoughts because I really haven’t got a lot of knowledge in terms of car mechanics. I bought this 2008 Subaru Forester on Tuesday and yesterday the indicator lamp popped up and today I see this under the car so I guess it’s the coolant that’s leaking. What could be the reason for this and what would be the most pricy issue…?

Hello everyone, I attempted to do an oil change on my own and I removed everything however when I was putting the bolt back in the pan I tightened it a bit too much and now it won't tighten.

I can remove the bolt without issues but if I attempt to tighten it, it loosens itself. I did some quick research and found out that I could use a bigger bolt to make new threads, however seeing as how I messed up something simple I don't think I can do it.

The bolt said M14 1.5 and the bolt head is 17mm. Should I have a professional install a new pan/fix it or should I take another DIY risk?

the transmission on our 2007 toyota rav4 (220,000 miles) worked fine until our son ran over an object and punctured the transmission pan. he drove it home after running over the object. 30 minute drive. got home with no problems. gears worked fine until all the transmission fluid ran out. now, shifter goes into gear but the transmission doesn't engage. dealer says they tested the solenoids and none are responding so we need a new transmission. that seems excessive. can a puncture to the transmission pan cause all the solenoids to fail?

I recently bought a driver-side seatbelt retractor from ebay for a 2008 chevy cobalt. I bought it because the one my sibling has in their car was locked up. Whenever the ebay replacement came I quickly discovered it has the same issue. While waiting for the seller to respond to my complaint, I found one cheaper from a different ebay seller. This time I asked the new seller if the retractor was locked up and he said all the retractors lock up until they’re reinstalled. I thought the retractor strictly had a mechanical function. Can anyone verify if what new seller id saying?

TLDR; ebay seller sold me a locked up seatbelt retractor. Found a different listing for the retractor and asked new seller if it’s locked up. New seller said they all lock up until they’re installed. Can anyone verify if that’s true?

I took my car to Chevrolet dealership last week to get new gasket valve cover. When I picked it up my power steering was acting up got locked and now my car isn’t accelerating after being at a stop. I have Chevy Cruze 2015. What do you think caused this? They kept telling me my car won’t turn it that’s it’s something with the computer they couldn’t even help me.

If anyone could dedicate some time to provide me with a source of brakeline I need as I can't find it myself. 03 Durango 4.7 4wd

Car: 2013 Kia Optima.

Basically the title. I warmed up the engine, tried to park on as flat of a surface as possible an let it cool down for a bit before checking the level.

The level is right at the Low line, would it be good for a few more weeks? All the auto shops are crazy busy right now and that's the earliest I can book at a good shop.

I last got my oil changed on June 20, 2023 so almost a full year ago with synthetic blend, still about 600 km away from the mechanics "change oil mileage".

I'm not sure if the car loses oil over time or not but if it does, is it bad if it goes under Low for a bit?

I have looked this up on reddit but mostly I can only find posts about oil level being extremely and obviously too low, or being over filled. But not much about it being just under Low.

I would love some advice, thank you!

Hey guys, I am trying to understand the relation between the crankshaft bolt, the crankshaft, and timing.

My automatic 2011 BMW 335i had a transmission failure and decided to downshift to 2nd gear at 85 MPH, the rpm’s went to heaven, a second later the engine turned off, it would not start, would just click. I didn’t hear any bad noises or anything when the engine shut off. I did smell a faint burning smell but it seemed like it was coming from the trans.

I tried to turn the motor over by putting a wrench on the 24MM harmonic balancer bolt which I believe is the same as the crankshaft bolt and it was completely loose, not even finger tight. This bolt should be torqued to over 250 FT/LB’s! I tightened it to maybe 50-60 FT/LB’s which should be enough to turn the motor over but it wouldn’t budge, it would just keep tightening the bolt. Yes it was in neutral.

However I did leave the wrench on the bolt, hit the starter, and the wrench did move maybe 1/2 an inch meaning the engine isn’t 100% seized but just very stuck.

My question mainly refers to the understanding of how this happened. What could have become damaged that would have made the crankshaft bolt back itself out? Obviously my car must be out of timing now, but that would just be ignition timing, not cam timing, right? Obviously there could have been valve float & valve damage too, but the crankshaft doesn’t have any relation to the cam timing right?

Does anyone have any insight here? Is it possible my car is just out of time? Or does the fact that the bolt was completely loose mean my engine is totaled?

I’m currently replacing the struts in my Mazda 3, the drivers side went well with no issues however getting the passenger side strut out was tricky but it eventually came out.

When attempting to install the new strut the lower control arm is too high and I am unable to get it to low enough to seat the strut into the knuckle.

I noticed a potential issue with the LCA hitting the (frame?) of the car, preventing it from going any lower.

Any advice would be much appreciated.