I've tested 3 mini PCs and none of them will play Netflix in 4k HDR.

Mini PCs tested

• Minisforum UM780 XTX with AMD Ryzen 7 7840HS processor & AMD Radeon 780M graphics
• Beelink EQI12 Mini PC,Intel 12th Gen Core i3-1220P
• Beelink S12 Pro Mini PC, Intel 12th Gen Alder Lake- N100(up to 3.4GHz)

They all have Windows 11 with HEVC video extension. I have the premium Nextflix Plan. I'm using Edge and the Netflix app. My TV is 4k HDR ready and this works fine on my PC with i7-12700 and RTX 3070. The mini PCs play YouTube in 4k HDR with no problems

Any clue why this is not working? Does anyone own these PCs or similar and have this working?

At the moment I have a 4TB external drive and another 4TB portable hard drive which were working great but as I convert most of my physical media to digital I'm already beginning to run out of space and I am not even half way through my collection (then I have music, photos, home movies, etc). I really don't want to just buy a bunch of external drives and clog up every USB port on my PC, nor do I want a messy looking pile of drives on display in the lounge under the TV.

What I'm looking for is something that will hold several 8TB hard drives while only taking up a single USB port and have them appear as 1 massive drive in windows. Internal drives are way cheaper too and I'm not concerned with redundancy as I own the physical media. I just want a neat multi-drive set up that I can put next to my HTPC in the lounge room (needs to pass the wify test too) with a bit of space to grow into and potential for expansion down the line.

At a rough estimate I figure I'll need 17TB for my current collection but I am always adding so something with room for 6 8TB drives would be ideal, buy 3 now and then add more as I need them. I've searched online but without knowing what I'm looking for all I seem to find are NAS setups but I'm not sure that's what I need. I just want something that will hold a bunch of drives, look nice and plugs into my PC.

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Hi,

I have a problem with my htpc regarding playing netflix. I was gifted an older yamaha rx-v520rds receiver, and I wanted to build a surround system with it. It works great via Toslink (the receiver is able to decode DTS and DD from the PC with VLC passthrough) or even Analog RCA (3 RCA Cables from my Asus Xonar Sound card to the AVR), but I haven't been able to get Netflix to work. I am running Windows 10, downloaded the Dolby Access app, however it says that my Asus Xonar card is not compatible with it. Is there any other way to output 5.1 from netflix to my receiver?

I know that my receiver is obsolete because it does not support hdmi, and I should probably upgrade, however since everything else works when playing Dolby Digital encoded files, I think it might be a bit unnecessary just for netflix.

I'd be very grateful for any suggestions, thanks

I'm trying to connect my Lenovo Legion Go running Windows 11 to a new TCL QM751g TV I just purchased. I'm using a Cable Matters USB-C dock for hdmi output. The TV supports 7.1 PCM audio and is connected to a receiver via eARC. The video works fine, but the audio for some reason does not output the front L/R speakers. It outputs the center, sub, and surround speakers fine. If I use 2 channel audio, then no audio gets outputed at all, even with ARC/eARC disabled. These are some of the other configurations that I tried:

• Lenovo Legion Go using a different USB-C (Plugable brand) - same behavior
• Lenovo Ideapad 5 Pro laptop (also AMD integrated graphics) using built-in HDMI port: works properly
• Lenovo Ideapad 5 Pro laptop using the USB-C dock - same behavior
• Lenovo Thinkpad P1 with Nvidia dedicated graphics using the USB-C dock: works properly

I tried to also manually update the AMD HDMI audio driver on the Legion Go to 10.0.1.38 which is the version I got from my desktop with an RX 7900 XTX but it has the same behavior.

I really want to get this working so I can run moonlight on the Legion Go on the TV.

Alright. So I've been running a little PC setup for my TV for a while. Old Optiplex with a 4th gen I5 and a GT 1030. I finally broke down and bought a new TV (Prism+ Q55 Ultra) in the Black Friday deals. The first day I set up the new TV, it worked perfectly with the little HTPC. Even 4K 60fps HDR videos played without a problem. Today though, I'm having a lot of issues with it.

On YouTube (On Chrome and Edge) some 4k videos, even HDR ones play perfectly fine and smooth, no problems at all. Some though stutter, buffer, jump ahead, freeze, and drop to lower quality. It's even struggling at 1080p with some videos which it never did before. Initially I figured maybe the first day was a fluke somehow and 4k was just too much for my passively cooled little GT 1030, so I swapped it out for a GTX 1650 D6 and it didn't help at all. Same problem.

I've changed every setting I can think of on both the HTPC and the TV just to try to find something. I've changed resolutions, scaling, video settings, reinstalled drivers, disabled AV1, forced AV1, changed HDMI cords twice and have some new ones coming just in case. Internet connection on the HTPC is good, around 300 Mbps. I'm at a loss as to what the issue could be. It's so bizarre that some videos will play at 4k 60fps in HDR without a single hiccup, while other videos can't play smoothly now even at 1080p. It worked perfect the first day and I haven't changed anything. I'm usually pretty good at figuring things out, but this just makes no sense. Videos play fine using the TV's smart TV features too, but the HTPC is struggling hard when it never used to.

Anyone else run into this before? Have any ideas of what to try next maybe? Thanks!

Hi, rather technical issue I just cant solve...any help would really be appreciated.

Intel i3 12100 (UHD 730) HDMI 2.0 (well 2.1 TMDS) connected direct to LG G4 (HDMI 2.1)

The display mode is 60Hz RGB 8bit TM SDR. When I use Kodi / MPC BE both set-up to change refresh rate and switch to HDR for playback of 4K HDR MKV's with DTS / True HD, DTS MA, DDP etc. Passthrough enabled on TV and Kodi all the audio options selected.

My issue simply is that Kodi / MPC BE will not fully complete the refresh rate change and or the SDR to HDR change. The program will minimise (with audio) and I have to force close it.
See the clip below of this, when it briefly flashes it has changed (or tried to change to 24Hz 8bit) then it briefly flashes back to 60hz then sticks at 60Hz and program minimises and I have to force quit.

8b RGB 60Hz

In testing when I change the display mode to 30Hz RGB 10bit TM SDR this is where it works, changes correctly to 24Hz then HDR and then video plays correctly. But I don't want to be in this mode, as I'm limited to 30hz and I have 50/60fps media.

10b RGB 30Hz

Its a new TV, and my PC used to be connected to an LG B8, and it worked flawlessly in 8bit 60HZ mode. In fact I had my B8 and G4 side by side, and plugged my PC into each one and it worked just fine on B8 but not on G4.

What am I missing here? I know my B8 would have been HDMI 2.0 would it make a difference with the G4 at HDMI 2.1?

I also asked on Kodi forum and a dev looked at the log file when this happens and said this:
"On your system the timing is just right to make audio come back just a bit late and make Kodi fall back to DirectSound, which doesn't passthrough high resolution formats"

"There is nothing wrong with your system, it's just that Kodi doesn't handle well that particular combination.

Anything that could have an impact on the timing of the mode change (some call this the handshake I think) could be a factor.
The brand/model of GPU, maybe even the driver/Windows versions, the brand/model of receiver/tv. A splitter / hdmi tweaking box may change the timing as well."

Heres the Devs explanation of what happens in the log:

15:11:11.823 enumeration of available audio devices, hdmi is not back yet > Kodi decides to fallback to default device (the spdif)
15:11:11.823 attempt to open default device, fails for TrueHD (not possible with spdif).
15:11:12.500 second attempt to open hdmi device (and for some reason AE forgot about the fallback to default device) - failure, hdmi is not back yet
15:11:12.624 Windows events received about device addition and change of default device
15:11:13.007 third attempt to open hdmi device. Succeeds, but device appears as "Device not found", probably because Kodi did not re-enumerate > hypothesis: maybe it's also missing other attributes needed by AE for passthrough to work.
Guess: a re-enumeration of available audio devices would cause a 4th attempt to open, this time with valid name and attributes and may fix the problem.

Thanks

Installed kodi last weekend on a new pc.

Every single file on my 2tb atmos demo drive played perfectly through kodi

Today I was going to transfer over some demos to my PC ssd and noticed nothing in kodi is playing back with any audio.

Pc is connected to denon s760h avr.

Other m2ts demos play fine with media player. Just no audio with kodi... Any ideas?

Hello,

I want to buy this case, I would've bought the GD11 if it had a 5.25 bay, and I wanted to buy an AIO for the CPU as well. From what I see there is no room for a 240mm AIO that wholly fits inside the case. I don't want to mount the radiator externally, or anything like that.

Do you think an 120mm AIO will fit?

Regards.

I've tried things like Kodi a bit and finding it quite over-complicated for my needs.

I re-encode and manage my own folder structures, how I want everything split up, etc. and it's not entirely complicit with scrapers. It feels like twice as much work as "doing it manually".

Not needing anything insane, I almost basically just want to navigate the folder structure, and maybe ascribe a photo to said folder. I will be using Mouse/Keyboard also, not a remote.

Maybe there's a specific kodi skin for that, or another server direction to go?

Thanks for insights, looked up almost all the skins on kodi and installed them but they're so overengineered that it's nearly impossible to mess around with and figure out if it's able to do what I want since they all start as the polar opposite.

First, I want to say the wiki is awesome!

Basic info: Samsung s90c, Pioneer LX-305 set up as 7.1.2. I already have a gaming PC plugged into the receiver. Everything works as expected. Movies in HDR and HDR10 play fine, and all audio formats are handled by the receiver.

My goal is a low-power combo NAS/Plex/HTPC box, plugged directly into the receiver, that will run 24/7. Thanks to advice in the wiki, I'm looking at a DELL Precision 3650 i5-11500.

One issue is that the Dell has two DisplayPort connections, and no HDMI connection. If I intend to use the Dell to play back 4k HDR10 Atmos/DTS movies (Dell>Pioneer>S90c), will a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter get in the way of that?

Secondly, does anyone have experience with the Dell Precision 36xx line? Are they loud, or are there limitations regarding M2 slots or drive positions?

Lastly, would an older PC, maybe an i5-7xxx (or whatever had HDMI 2.0) be sufficient for playback and Plex transcoding (one, maybe 2 streams only)?

I have a weird and complex setup that works very well except for two issues that I just can't seem to figure out. I'm about to upgrade my whole HTPC setup, so I'm hoping to resolve these issues before I do the upgrade/as part of the upgrade.

First, here is my setup:

I'm running an Intel i5 6500 with GTX1060 6GB GPU (1 HDMI port and 3 DP). The PC is housed in a cupboard located somewhat centrally in the house. This system is driving 3 displays that are in different rooms and, using Aster Mutliseat, I'm able to run multiple Windows 10 user accounts simultaneously, and assign different devices to different user accounts/setups.

Display setup 1 (office):

This is my main general purpose setup, also used for keyboard/mouse gaming. I have a 28 inch 4K U2868PQU connected via a 7.5m Displayport cable (the 4K only works on the DP input). I had issues with the screen glitching out, but it resolved once I switched the settings on the monitor from DP1.2 to DP1.1. I also have a wireless keyboard/mouse, and Logitech G433 wireless headphones connected. The keyboard/mouse dongle is located in the office, but is connected via cheap USB over ethernet adapters to the PC elsewhere in the house. The ethernet cables are CAT6, running through the roof.

To this display, I also have a work laptop connected via HDMI, and the keyboard/mouse receiver is connected to a KVM switch so I can use the same display, keyboard/mouse combo for work.

Problem:

The monitor goes to sleep and won't turn back on even when I try to wake it by mashing keyboard buttons or moving the mouse. It works perfectly fine when I switch to the work laptop, but the main PC sometimes won't wake up the screen. I don't have this issue with any of the other displays connected to the PC. The problem (described below) where USB over ethernet devices disconnect when light switches are flipped in the house never happens in the office setup (I can see the Num Lock light up on the keyboard, which only happens if the dongle is plugged in).

What I've tried:

Aster Multiseat has a custom screensaver that turns the display off. On my other setups, this works perfectly fine. The display turns off after a specified amount of time, and turns on when a button is pressed. I've tried turning this screensaver off, changing Windows Power settings to never sleep and never turn the screen off. None of these fixed the issue. One thing that didn't resolve the issue but did delay how long it took for the issue to arise, was to set a sleep time in the monitor's settings. I had it set to zero, which is supposed to never let the monitor turn off. I changed it to 24 hours, so I think the monitor keeps itself on, but then turns off after 24 hours? I suspect the issue has something to do with Display port, but not sure what I can do to resolve it.

There are two temporary fixes. One is to reboot the PC. Another is to go to another setup, and then in Aster Multiseat I can Force Relogin for the Office setup.

Display 2 (son's room):

This is also a general use setup for my son. I have a 27 inch 1080P Samsung P2770H monitor connected via a 10m HDMI cable. It is connected to my GTX 1060 6GB via a cheap DP to HDMI converter. I have a USB hub, with wired keyboard and wireless mouse connected via the same cheap USB over ethernet adapters to the PC. The CAT6 cables are again running through the roof.

Problem:

Unlike the office setup, I never have any issues waking the screen up when pressing a button. However, I do have issues where the keyboard/mouse will not be connected (I can tell by the Num Lock key on the wired keyboard being off). I would then have to unplug the USB hub and replug, then it usually works fine. There seems to be some correlation between light switches being flipped in the house and the disconnections happening, although the disconnections on this setup are less frequent than in the third setup (described below).

What I've tried:

Tried running the setup without the USB hub so that it's only one USB device connecting to the PC, but still run into the same issue. Tried switching to a different, known working USB hub, but the same issue persists.

Display 3 (lounge TV):

This setup is primarily for media consumption and controller-based gaming. I have a 65 inch 4K TCL TV connected via a 20m fiber optic HDMI cable that is connected to the only HDMI port I have on my GTX 1060. While the office and my son's room setups are relatively close to where the actual PC is physically located, the TV is furthest away.

I have a powered USB hub that is connected to the PC via the same USB over ethernet adapter, where the CAT6 cable is again run through the roof. To the hub, I have a cheap air mouse remote dongle, the wireless receiver for my Logitech G433 wireless headphones, and a third party Xbox 360 USB dongle (I have a number of wireless Xbox 360 peripherals including controllers, guitars, and even an old DJ Hero controller).

Problem:

I have no issues with the screen. It wakes up when I press a button, and goes to sleep when it is supposed to. The issue is with the peripherals. It is the same as with the setup in my son's room, but more frequent. There are certain light switches in the house that almost always cause peripherals to disconnect, and some that only cause the issue about 50% of the time. Sometimes, the disconnect results in an immediate reconnect. So if someone is playing a game using an Xbox 360 controller, it'll disconnect and then suddenly reconnect again. Sometimes, the devices will disconnect and stay disconnected. The only way to resolve the issue is to unplug the powered USB hub (including the power brick that connects to the wall), then first plug the hub back in before reconnecting the power brick. Sometimes I have to do this multiple times to get things working again. Sometimes some peripherals will work when replugging and others won't. The wireless headphone dongle seems to be the most resilient, followed by the Xbox 360 dongle, with the wireless airmouse having the most issues. All these devices have no issues when plugged directly into a USB port on the PC.

What I've tried:

I originally had a non-powered USB hub, so I switched to a powered one. This didn't resolve the issue, but did lower the frequency of the issue somewhat.

I tried running multiple CAT6 cables and having multiple USB over ethernet adapters, so that each USB device could connect to its own USB port. This did not help.

Overall, this setup is great and working exactly how I envisioned when I first set everything up, except for these two main issues (the DP screen not turning on and the peripherals disconnection when light switches are turned on/off). I had a similar setup in my previous house (same number of screens, but the house was much smaller so USB devices were connected directly to the PC, and no use of Display port) and had no issues. I've since moved to a much larger house, necessitating the long USB over ethernet runs.

Does anyone have any insight into what could be causing these issues, or what I could try?

(Please read everything before posting) Thank you :)

Hello, Im searching for a windows media centre program that has a beautifull interface so I can watch all of my movies & tv shows offline, I have already tried :

.Plex

.Emby

.Jellyfin

.Streamio

.Kodi

.Media portal

However, unfortunately I find them all to be way too cumbersome, not intuiative enough for me & beyond my needs

(so I would much appreciate if people don't recommend them)

I would preferably like something that I can simply point to my local files, scrape metadata, & have the same box covers & art style as the big 3 (Plex, Emby, Jellyfin) without the hosting part!

if anyone is still unclear what im asking for, I would recommend they have a look at ''Qiplex Filmographer'' which is amost perfect, abeit a the lack of 1 or 2 options that I need:

https://qiplex.com/software/filmographer/

Thank you :)

Hello, do you guys think if it's possible to use pulse-eight cec adapter with DP to HDMI converter?

Got a new soundbar (TCL Q6510) and I got 5.1 working with AC3 and E-AC3 but AAC in all formats outputs in stereo. On other formats the tv shows dolby audio but not AAC. I'm using SaneAR and audio switching with downmixing. PC is bitstreaming via ARC to the soundbar.

I’d like to avoid the hassle of sneaker-netting the files, which is what I’ve been doing. The HTPC is running Windows 10 Professional, while my desktop PC is running Windows 11 Professional. I've been using VLC as my video player.

It looks like all Kodi addons are dead. Some say they are not but nothing works for me. I've tried many Linux distros, add-ons and Kodi versions and I can't get one one stream. It's all blocked. I've been trying for 3 days and nothing works so I give up.

Stremio works well but it doesn't deliver dd5.1, dd7.1, or DTS. The sound is very important for me. I don't care to watch on a 720p screen but the sound has to be surround sound.

Is there any other alternatives?

Hello,

I am having playback issues with my small HTPC. Running the latest MPC-HC 2.3.7

What works
Video: HVC1 3840x1920 23.976fps [V: hevc main L5.0, yuv420p, 3840x1920 [default]]
Video: HVC1 3840x2160 23.976fps [V: English [eng] (hevc main 10 L5.1, yuv420p10le, 3840x2160)]
*This is strange because one video plays fine without dropped frames and is also 70+ gigs

What studders "Dropped frames" it does not judder.
Video: HVC1 3840x2160 23.976fps [V: English [eng] (hevc main 10 L5.1, yuv420p10le, 3840x2160) [default]]Video: HVC1 3840x2160 23.976fps [V: hevc main 10 L5.1, yuv420p10le, 3840x2160 [default]]
Both of the dropped frames examples are rather large~70 gigs.

Based on what I just provided I am still stumped, there is a video that works fine and two that dont. Two of the codecs match.. so that's probably not it.

I've tried disabling DX11 in the MPC Video Renderer settings which makes the video washed out, then I can bring it back to normal with SDR mapping option. This makes GPU usage high, but I notice horizontal artifacts while playback as if my TV / video card is having issues. Funny though, there is no dropped frames when this happens.

The PC is a HP EliteDesk 705 G5 Mini Ryzen 3400GE. I was then recommended from here to pick up one of the "New HP HDMI Port IO Option Card for HP EliteDesk 705 G4 L25757-001 L37415-001" which solved my issue being able to run at 4k.

I have looked at https://r-htpc.github.io/wiki/hdr and followed the section under "MPC-BE + MPC Video Renderer" and nothing seems a miss. TV is HDR, windows is HDR, I dont have an issue with needing to tone map anything.

When I playback all of the videos on my desktop in another room *not connected to my tv* I don't see playback issues. 5950x 2070super.

I'm at a loss as to what my configuration issue is. Please let me know if you have any ideas or whatever information you experts might need.

Thank you.

Got a samsung qr30 and a Onkyo receiver type HT-R380, optical to optical. I got my pc connected to the tv with a hdmi cable.

I don't understand why it's so difficult to get it to work, I can't find any way to make my rear speakers work. There's a lot of random stuff online about janky obscure fixes with apo and some other stuff or weird hdmi splitting to get the surround sound out. Supposedly it may be some driver issue because optical can't do it normally and requires it to be compressed in some special way but dolby refused to install drivers from the microsoft store app

I can't tell if it's windows like usual with problems or my tv, my tv's sound settings don't let me pick dolby digital. Windows doesn't show any way to do it either be it generic or dolby and the dolby microsoft store app didn't do anything either because it just points me to settings which do not exist on my pc

Is there a proper way to fix this or do I need to look at some unconventional outside solution?

I technically don't need it but it'd be unfortunate if I couldn't use the rear speakers I have with this set I got

edit: I'm going the hdmi route thanks folks appreciate it, the sound system is a real treat with atmospheric games like silent hill

Currently using a laptop after upgrading from an android box, but would like something for gaming too. I'm not a huge gamer, but I like to dabble and I like my games too look good.

Been looking at mini pcs, specifically the minisforum with the 780m. The price is decent and the aesthetics are good, but I worry about cooling and about the graphics quality, especially a couple of years down the line.

My other idea is a small form desktop. I guess the heat would be less of an issue, it would be easy to upgrade in the future, but I feel it might be noisier, and of course not look as good.

Any suggestions or advice?

Everywhere I look I see suggestions to use Kodi, or its derivatives OpenELEC etc as the environment for a HTPC. This confuses me, because I think of Kodi as a media playback environment, basically a competitor to Plex.

I've got no interest in using Kodi for video or music, as I have a ton invested in my Plex library (plus, I love PlexAmp). But I need some way to launch the Plex app (or PlexAmp, or RetroArch/EmulationStation for gaming). Is it correct that Kodi is being used as a launcher in this way? It seems like a crazy amount of overkill.

Hi all,

I am turning to you for help in making a setup that I can use to stream media from a mini PC with Intel N100 to a Samsung S90C TV.

Right now it is connected to LAN, but if necessary, I can hook up the Mini PC to the TV with HDMI.

I have tried jellyfin and plex, but the problem with that setup is the stability of playback - it has long buffering, sometimes errors with playback, changing audio tracks etc. From these two I have the impression that it is made for streaming to multiple devices.

I also have tried the default media streaming option, but the problem there is that the TV media player app has problems with seeking and if there are many audio tracks in a file, not everything shows up.

I thought of maybe using the HDMI port, but the interface is not made for TV.

Any ideas? Thank you guys!

I have an SFF case with a GTX1660 that doesnt allow me to go 4k@120hz with 4:4:4 on windows 11. My PC is connected to an Lg G4

What is a nice upgrade with full hdmi 2.1 support that will have a nice bump in performance too? MY CPU is Ryzen 5 3500x and i am a mild gamer (fps lover)

My pc is used for browsing, media plex server and i game with whatever i have available

I'm getting tired of tinkering with MadVR and having to hunt down the latest beta release of madVRhdrMeasure when the time expires for tonemapping.

I saw that MPC Video Renderer finally added HDR -> SDR conversion and I can select 60 Nits for my SDR projector. It also has very simple upscaling settings.

However, I use MadVR's black bar detection to remove the bottom black bar so movies aren't so high up on my screen. Is there a way to mimic this behavior on MPC without MadVR?

Me and my gf are moving into an apartment together for the first time. We watch a lot of stuff online outside of things that would have their own app like Netflix or Hulu. If I download or sideload a browser, how well does it work to watch stuff online other than stuff like YouTube Netflix or Hulu? Should I just get an HTPC to do that instead? How easy is it to navigate a browser on the shield pro?

Hi everybody,

5+ years ago I used to have a fancy HTPC with madVR and all the other goodies. I remember that madVR had a lot of options regarding upscaling or tone mapping and tons of other stuff....
It took quite some time to set it up, but the results were visible and worth the time invested.

During Covid I got rid of the HTPC and the TV. Now I would like to buy a TV and am thinking about how to play my movies.

Thus I'm curious what the situation is today? Have any alternatives to madVR come up? Does it still make sense to utilize it or are there players out there that get the same job done (without the whole time consuming setup or demanding system requirements)? Does it even make sense to build a fancy system with a powerful graphic card or would you just use an Apple TV or Nvidia Shield? I'm planning on watching my collection (mix of 1080p and 4K movies, mainly SDR with some HDR) on a 65 inch TV.

Seems like there is no one on earth that can figure out why, but i cannot watch any truehd atmos content with potplayer without sync issue... the image slowly lags more behind sound over time... My setup: PC(RTX3090) to soundbar (samsung q930b) to TV (samsung s95b) On the wiki page no solution, this seems like a software related issue. Anyone made it work with similar setup? Or with a receiver, experienced similar delay? Also, the potplayer settings are very complex, lpcm seems to not work, only AC3 passthrough, but i tought it is not truehd?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hi hi,

Not super sure where to start asking for help with this. I've got a spare PC which I'd love to use as a media center (for netflix, disney plus, youtube etc) controlled primarily by an Xbox controller so i can use it easily from my sofa. I'd also love to have steam integrated so I can stream games to my sofa too.

I've had a look at Kodi and Plex and they seem to be kinda good for streaming services but not for gaming, and obviously Steam Big Picture is great but can't do the streaming side...

Basically the dream would be an xbox type system which can stream my steam games and hop over to a streaming app without fiddly keyboard/mouse interaction where possible. Any advice where to start looking or if there's another reddit that might be a better place to ask - any help would be great. Thanks!

Several options for the O/S to run Plex, as well as the host configuration. I'm curious if anyone has done the legwork and compared the different configurations.

Emby/Plex on:

• PC running windows 10/11
• Windows 10/11 with a VM running Plex/Emby
• Plex/Emby on a NAS VM or container

Curious if there's a noticeable difference between the above choices for Emby server. The reason I'm looking into this is because I've priced out QNAP, Synology, Terramaster, and UGREENE. For $1,300 I can get a DIY NAS - Silverstone 8-Bay CS382 with a ASUS MOBO, 13th gen i5, 64GB RAM, a 1TB SSD, and a LG blu ray writeable drive. There's also a 4-port PCIe card to accommodate the additional SATA drives.

There's no NAS from the above mentioned companies that can deliver anything close to what I've spec'd out. You're spending thousands for a NAS to get the same hardware solution.

I cannot come up with a use-case for why I need the CS382 solution, but it doesn't make sense to me to spend approximately the same amount of money and get a hardware-inferior setup. I want an 8-bay solution, and it needs to transcode everything I throw at it. I can see myself using the optical disk drive in the PC setup, and running a couple VMs, so it feels like unless I really need the O/S and functionality of a QNAP, Synology, etc., I should just stick to the PC. One big plus to the pre-built NAS boxes are the smaller size.