/r/htpc
Home Theater PC - Drive your home theater media experience with a PC or media device.
/r/HTPC - Home Theater PC - Drive your home theater media experience with a PC or media device.
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Media PC Software
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Friends of /r/HTPC
/r/htpc
i'm on w10 and i can only get stereo using a s/pdif cable going to my 5.1 sony av receiver. pictures of sound settings
I know it's possible with TV's, chromecast and other devices but why isn't there an option for chrome on pc?
Will the new Ai mini PC from HP be stout enough to run MadVR?
5600X, 16GB RAM, 1660 Super, running MadVR with the highest quality settings I've been able to figure out and the 1660S is dropping frames regularly to the point I could see it and confirmed it. GPU use is pegged at 100%, CPU use is acceptable with one core at about 85%, I can turn things up off the 45W limit to the full 65W but I don't think that's my bottleneck here.
I'm down to upgrade the GPU but I don't want to under-buy. What's the min spec I should shoot for to do what I want to do? I have a Vega56 sitting unused but I've never used MadVR on an AMD GPU before. Does it work the same as Nvidia? Would a Vega56 get me where I want to be? All comparative information I can find is related to gaming where they're only about 5% apart overall except in VRAM limited scenarios, with the V56 being ahead. I'd like to stick to around $300 but there's some flexibility in there if it's a screamin deal.
I did check the wiki which suggested the 1660S, but I had this built from spare parts before I even knew to read up on anything. I've been using MadVR for ages with other builds and TV's but I'm not super well versed in it, sort of get it looking good and working well and then I don't touch it again. I can certainly turn some settings down to stop dropping frames in the mean time but besides the dropped frames it looks pretty good for a DVD on 4K so I'm more inclined to just buy my way out of this problem than I am to turn things back down. Really appreciate everyone here and your help, I just can't seem to come to a solid conclusion on this one without some more experienced input from others. Thanks kindly!
Hi all - some background, I have an older surround sound processor(HDMI 1.1) that automatically loads different presets and modes depending on the number of channels coming from an audio stream. Currently, my configuration in windows is set as 5.1/7.1 and if I play audio from anything it always comes out as 5.1/7.1 even if it's two channel content like Spotify - except for Tidal that outputs two channels when used in exclusive mode.
I can go into the old XP configuration utility and change the number of channels but it's a lot of digging just to switch from games to music. I'm mainly trying to figure out if there's any easy way to have the content I'm playing automatically switch the number of channels being output over HDMI, is anyone aware of any programs or apps that do this?
At the very least something that can play CD's in exclusive mode and bitstream them would be great, foobar seems to still just use the 5.1 output that I'm trying to avoid since this loads my film presets for games and movies. Tidal can't play them unfortunately, and iTunes lacks exclusive mode.
Hardware path: Audio: Motherboard graphics (Intel UHD 770) --> Lexicon MC-12HD --> Amp
Video: 6900XT --> LG C3 42"
OS: Windows 11
Software: Various games for when I'm using full surround sound, Tidal, Spotify, and iTunes for music
just go a new pc with Intel Ultra 5 245K Processor and I can't get 4k 60hz with it's integrated gpu. only 30hz.
My old pc had no issues with that. I had an RTX 1060 on it, but from what I read, the integrated gpu also has 4k capability.
Also, in the information tab it states for some reason that 4k is not supported.
My pc is connected to an AVR & LG C4 OLED. None of them have issues with 4k 60hz and everything worked well with my old pc.
What am I doing wrong here?
If the NVIDIA Control Panel is set to 8-bit and the panel is a true 10-bit display and MadVR device display properties settings are set to 10-bit and Full Screen Exclusive mode is enabled do I still get 10-bit output?
I'm bored, I have lots of spare hardware of various grades kicking around.
I have a big NAS w/ plex.
but.. more importantly, I have a family that isn't going to deal well with having to pat their head while rubbing their belly and turning themselves counterclockwise at 2rpm in order to access Netflix, Prime, Britbox, Plex etc..
They're all used to Roku thats built into the TV.. its easy.. it works (mostly) except not always great with Plex..
I've poked around with Kodi before but it looks like many of the services are that whole "well it works this week.. and if the company updates the service, maybe some volunteers will fix the app in a few weeks!" thing.. thats fine for enthusiasts.. less so for their wives.
So, all that rambled out.. any slick front-ends these days? I enjoyed good old WMC back in the day.
Our living room has a PC connected to a TV, an amp and NAS. We use the PC mostly as a HTPC running Kodi and less often for general computing (emails, Google etc). I use a Harmony remote to coordinate on/off of devices and had a Corsair K83 keyboard that was perfect for HTPC/general computing (ie wireless, backlit, touchpad, good quality). Unfortunately, the K83 died. I tried a Rii from Amazon but it wasn’t the quality experience I was looking for. I tried using a keyboard mouse comb but using a mouse to control a living room HTPC sucks! I’ve now settled on the Logi MX Keys S keyboard and looked at a wireless ‘numeric keypad with touchpad’ (Amazon A$45) but ended up going with the Logi MX Ergo trackball. I think I have struck HTPC paydirt! You can sit the MX trackball on a doona/dog/couch and operate it without difficulties. The MX trackball has easily programable additional keys that work for volume, left/right/enter/escape. I was lost without a keyboard/trackpad combo but think I have now found an even better solution.
Windows 11
RTX 3080 to HUE Sync Box 8k to TCL QM7.
TV eARC to LG SN7R ARC 5.1 Soundbar.
This seems pretty weird? I'm just trying to get 5.1 sound from eARC TV to an ARC soundbar. The only time I actually get true 5.1 playing from all speakers is when I use DTS:X, or Atmos, but that introduces latency to the sound and is unacceptable for playing games. I just want regular old boring 5.1...
Sound settings when TV set to Passthrough:
When I set the TV to Auto Windows detects more formats:
For kicks, this is what my CRU settings look like:
Left/Right/Center seem to test properly when selecting "5.1" in speaker configuration, but the sub does not play and the rear speakers come out of the front speakers instead. Is this something that can be adjusted via APO and FX Configurator?
SETUP:
Beelink n100 mini pc (windows 11)
Yamaha RX-V479 a/v receiver
5.1 speaker setup
--------------------------------------------
just to keep it simple, when I configure the setup the "test" feature works and I can hear the beeps in all 6 speakers, but when I try actual content, only the FR+FL works.
I tried updating the drivers, reseting them, Realtek Audio console won't download................
Honestly, I don't know what to do anymore.................
-------------------
[EDIT] - SOLVED
I messed around with the AVR settings and configured the SURROUND to all 5 channels, forcing all 6 speakers to be used all the time
So I'm looking to buy or build a very small footprint HTPC (that will fit on my mantle behind my TV). Mantle is 9.5" or 24 cm deep. I'd like it to be NUC sized. Budget is ~1000USD. It must support 4K at 120Hz over HDMI (a small DP -> HDMI dongle is acceptable for this capability). Other things I'd like:
-Remote control support without line of sight. (Bluetooth or radio freq but not IR).
-HDMI CEC
-2.5gbE networking or better. I have a 10gbE network I can plug into.
-KODI works
-Possible support for gaming.
-Wifi 7 over 6E or ability to upgrade to wifi 7.
I'm flexible with operating systems, as I'm comfortable with GUI / CLI linux, windows, Mac OS, etc...
I've been looking at Minisforum and am getting a bit overwhelmed with the options. Support for 4k 120hz is sometimes not even specified, and I'm reading even some of the 4k@60 listings will support 4k@120 given a proper cable. I'd like it to be a little more future proof and use DDR5 and possibly PCIe gen 5 (gen 4 is also acceptable). So I guess I'm asking for a suggestion on what to buy as far as a mini PC goes, and what to get as far as a remote control goes. Leaning towards AMD but intel is okay too. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
I got an onn soundbar ultraslim 5.1 as it had atomos, dts etc. My laptop says it has hdmi 2.1 and under that dts x audio technlogy. Gigabyte aeros 15
I plugged it into the hdmi and got no rear sound
Then I also tried an audio extractor and still got pcm 2 channel. I was using hdmi and connected through spdif which I know now doesn't allow atmos.
I tried to change the settings for spatial with no luck. With my old logitech speakers on a desktop I would plug them in and enjoyed the 5.1
I only have a limited space for a tv as I am in a van and usually use a projector or laptop. If I could get 5.1 channels I would be happy.
Video is from a remux bluray. I would like to position the PGS subtitle higher in the video screen. I have tried messing with settings in Subtitles > Rendering > Override placement as well as Default Style > Screen alignment & margins, but neither shift the subtitle higher. Is there a way?
Hi,
i am wondering if i should just upgrade the gpu or the whole mobo. i want a mini atx to fit in my case.
i just want to play youtube, netflix and play some chill living room games with a controller. no hard gaming but the actual build looks slow and buggy.
should i just upgrade or start fresh? if i go fresh do you have recommendations to start the build?
Thanks!
Actual pc:
msi ms-7913 mini atx mobo
16 gb ddr3 ram
amd a8-7600 radeon r7
gt-1030 gpu
https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/TqN974
I have the 5600x and the 1060 leftover from an upgrade to my main pc and thought i might put them into a htpc, im pretty set on the ridge as ive heard good and think it looks great, im mostly worried about clearances and think it should be fine but would like to double check.
Overall how is it looking, definately not convinced on the psu either but its fanless which attracted me, although expensive and out of stock near me
thanks!
Hello im having an issue where my pc is only outputting 5.1 pcm and refuses to play Dolby Digital or any dolby and dts audio codec from any streaming service or rip dvd , bluray, 4k bluray. I have a 5.0 setup and my receiver is a onkyo tx-sr3100 and my pc build is ryzen 5 5600x and rtx 3060 12GB with 32GB of ram any help would be greatly appreciated
This is a loose guide for anyone still with a 3D TV or projector wondering how to play their full quality 3D Blu-ray rips using inexpensive modern hardware.
The PC I used was a Beelink EQR6 with a Ryzen 5 6600H and 16 gigs of RAM.
Hi all. I've been using *right click>cast to device>my TV for years without any issue. I do this as my TV can play almost any 4K HDR DV/HDR10+ file perfectly. However, I switched from Plusnet to Vodafone and since I've been using the Vodafone router, the stream is buffering/jerky.
The TV, PC and router are in the same room and they are all on the 5g network (can't use ethernet as router is other side of the room). As the only thing that's changed is the router, then i assume it's that but can you think of anything in the router settings that I should check?
Thanks
Protocol: Wi-Fi 6 (802.11ax) Security type: WPA3-Personal Network band: 5 GHz Network channel: 128 Link speed (Receive/Transmit): 2402/1729 (Mbps) IPv4 address: 192.168.1.185 IPv4 DNS servers: 192.168.1.1 Manufacturer: Intel Corporation Description: Intel(R) Wi-Fi 6 AX200 160MHz
I have all in one HP computer (b330nj) I want to convert into a dedicated streamer for my TV and stereo system. It will only be used for playing music and movies (1080p) via Plex and Spotify.
Specs: CPU: Intel i3-7100U RAM: 12GB
The hardware inside look to me like a laptop-grade (not standard ITX or desktop components). Would this hardware be sufficient for these tasks over the next 3-5 years?
Additionally, I’d like to transfer all the components (except the screen, of course) into a smaller case. Is this possible, and what type of case should I look for, considering the laptop-style hardware?
If possible, I’d appreciate recommendations for a suitable compact case on AliExpress.
Thanks in advance!
Hello all!
I recently got a Vizio elevate 5.1.4 sound bar. My computer is set up to my LG B2 OLED via HDMI and the sound bar uses eARC.
Dolby Atmos works flawlessly, but when I try games with just traditional 5.1 surround, I cannot get it to work at all. Noise comes from the rear speakers, but without any worry of where I'm looking or the direction of the audio source.
I've tried multiple 5.1 games and all do the same thing.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Edit: I enabled Dolby Atmos and now games that don't support Atmos but so support 5.1 work now? I am very confused.
I assume MPC-BE converts it to PCM? What would a 5.1 receiver (say a Yamaha RX-V385) do with this?
There is an option in MPC to mix channels.. but if you set it to 5.1 there is no option to skip doing this to a stereo source :/
Cheers :D
Hello!
I was using MPC-HC with the K-Lite Codes Pack for a long time now without any questions.
Now my quit old motherboard finally died in my media pc, so I finally pulled the trigger and got a mini pc.
Old setup:
AMD CPU, Nvidia GPU, Windows 10.
Audio: 5.1.4
AVR: Onkyo TX-NR 7100
Connection: PC -> HDMI IN Onkyo -> Onkyo HDMI OUT -> TV
New Setup:
Mini PC, Ryzen 7640HS APU, Windows 11
Audio: Same
AVR: Same
Connection: Same
In Windows my Setup is configured as 2.0 for music, youtube and so on. So PCM.
In MPC-HC/LAV Audio I configured everything for audio passthrough. Its working fine except for one different behavior.
With my old PC sound output was as follows:
Windows Usage = Stereo. Open movie with mpc-hc and e.g. codec atmos, AVR is switching to atmos (click sound relay). Stop movie. AVR is switching back to stereo (again clicking relay sound)
Now with the new PC:
Windows Usage = Stereo. Open movie with mpc-hc and e.g. codec atmos, AVR is switching to atmos (click sound relay). Stop movie. AVR stays atmos. Only if I play some stereo sound (e.g. Youtube, spotify) it switches back to stereo with the clicking relay sound.
So for some reason the last codec is now set until another one is send to the AVR.
It's not so handy because my Onkyo needs some seconds to switch back to Stereo. So the first seconds of a song/youtube video is muted.
I can't seem to find a setting or something that helps me.
Would be great if someone could suggest a solution for me.
----
Edit/possible workaround:
Have now tested it with my work laptop and my desktop PC
laptop
NVIDIA RTX A3000 (is more or less an rtx 3060)
Desktop PC
AMD RX 6800
So after exiting MPC-HC (also tested with VLC), the desktop pc with AMD GPU does not automatically switch back to PCM. Or it only sends a PCM signal when it is manually triggered by something (e.g. Spotify, web browser, Windows Sound)
So same behavior as my mini pc.
The laptop with NVIDIA GPU, on the other hand, immediately switches back to PCM.
Accordingly, I suspect different driver behavior between AMD and NVIDIA.
As a workaround, I have now set Windows sounds to play a sound when a program is closed. This switches from codec XY to PCM when MPC, VLC and so on are closed.
Maybe I will tinker around to play a sound for a specific program that doesn't have inbuild system sounds like Media Players some day in the future. For now it's ok.
I have a fairly basic stereo reciever/amplifier (Denon RCD-N12DAB) which, as far as output goes, is as basic as a stereo receiver goes: no .1 channel, no Dolby or DTS support, and very minimal sound settings. It does, however, have an HDMI ARC input, which I currently use to route audio from a TV and everything connected to it, as well as optical and RCA inputs.
As I return to PC building after ten to fifteen years of hiatus, I've realized that optical out is no longer a de facto standard for motherboard audio. Now I wonder how much should I invest in a PCIe sound card, if anything.
If I'm going to connect a PC to a reviever via optical, am I right to assume that digital is digital and there's no difference between cheap cards (think Audigy RX or Asus Xonar) and expensive ones? Once again, I'm talking bog-standard 24/192 PCM.
Do upmarket sound card/DAC controls (EQs etc.) apply to optical out, or to analog ones only? If it's the latter, would it be too silly to route PC audio to an amp via RCA?
Aside from an obvious drawback of not being able to listen to musing while the TV is off, is there anything to keep in mind with an HDMI audio path provided by a GPU or iGPU?